stylist spotlight

How did you learn to cut curly hair?

I learned to cut curly hair out of desperation. As a teenager I had been to many stylists (this was the 80's)and they each claimed to know how to cut curly hair, and just about every time I left with hair shorter than what I asked for and I was left with a mullet hairstyle. So one day I decided to cut it myself with good success, and when my friends noticed my hair and asked who cut it, I told them I did and they asked if I could cut theirs which lead me into a career as a hairstylist. I have women sit in my chair daily who tell me of their varied experiences and disappointments of the care of their curly hair. I understand and have shared some of the same experiences. I am a colorist but my speciality is curly hair. I have learned through extensive training and my own experiences that for curly hair to be manageable it must have a great haircut to start with, and then the right products to maintain the cut and style. I always prescribe T.L.C. (tender loving conditioning), and the right products to keep your curls frizz-free, moisturized, and healthy. Our curls are friends, not foes!

What's your technique?

My favorite cutting technique for curly hair is Point Cutting, because it goes with the pattern of curly hair. Some curls hang long and some are tighter and there are various curl patterns and cowlicks to deal with as well. I can cut curly hair wet or dry. When you point cut you are cutting to the pattern of the hair, and instead of a 'boxy' look, you get a perfect layered pattern that frames the face.

What products do you like best?

One of my favorite products I use daily is Its A 10 Miracle Leave in Plus Keratin. I spray it on after shampooing because it is a great leave in for softening, fortifying, and eliminates frizz. It also helps with cutting and smooths the hair as well. I also use (depending on curl type) It's a 10 Mousse, Styling Cream, and Miracle Oil plus Keratin, which provide the best style results for my curl girl clients. The integrity of the hair is maintained and it looks healthy, and your curls look luscious. Since I am a Joico colorist, I use Moisture Recovery Shampoo and Conditioner for my curly clients. With botanicals, amino acids, keratin, and jojoba, it provides the ultimate in moisture replenishment for dry, curly tresses!

Any advice for other stylists?

Curly hair is drastically different than straight hair but it is not impossible. Never use a razor to cut curly hair, the cuticle is already open and a razor amplifies this and creates more fly away, frizzy hair. Scissors are much more suitable because it's a clean cut, and there are many techniques you can employ to give the perfect cut to curly hair.

What's the hottest curly trend?

I think the hottest trend, the only trend is embracing your curls as they truly are, whether you have springy curls or loose waves. Sometimes we go wrong when we work against what we naturally have. Keep your curls hydrated first and foremost, and then make sure you keep up with regular trims and haircuts for your best styling results!

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