Posts Tagged ‘textured hair’

Textured Hair on the Runway

by Cassadie on Wednesday, February 1st, 2012

The spotlight is on texture in the fashion industry, and we don’t mean tweeds, wools and ruching. Curls, kinks and waves are front and center on the runway this season.

Sleek, flat locks are a thing of the past on the runway as fashion designers and hair stylists draw inspiration from the textured-hair revolution taking place around the world. Together, they have resurrected the art of the curl and are putting it center stage in fashion shows everywhere.

The versatility of texture provides stylists with an infinite amount of creative possibilities for designing high-drama, high fashion, haute couture hair to complement the equally dramatic clothing created by renowned designers.

“Rather than sleek, straightened hair, what we’re seeing more and more of in fashion is a celebration and enhancement of texture,”says runway and celebrity stylist Danilo.

Consumer Influence

The fashion industry draws its inspiration not only from other cultures and eras, but also from what’s happening on urban streets. Tammy Mixon of Farouk’s Global Artistic Board says she has noticed more consumer awareness of the damaging potential of double processing hair.

“We’re seeing more coloring, and as a result, less straightening treatments, so naturally there has been a reemergence of textured hair,”says Mixon.

Additionally, via websites like geared toward textured hair, and a wide network of curly-haired bloggers and vloggers, there has also been a large increase in consumer education of how to work with and wear natural texture.

“That’s the beauty of having an educated population: a multi-textured world,” says Anthony Dickey, lead stylist and founder of Hair Rules.

As the number of people wearing naturally textured hair increases, designers are picking up on this global trend and incorporating texture into their runway presentations.

“I think designers are also finding inspiration in models who are unapologetically sporting their natural hair,” says Dickey. “By incorporating naturally existing textures into their runway shows, designers create a more distinctive and authentic presentation to complement their unique aesthetics.”

On the Runway

Textured hair on the runway comes in a wide variety of forms depending on the designer’s overall concept. From loose waves to tightly kinked afros, stylists are exploring all options.

“This year we were seeing a lot of what we call ‘third-day hair,’” says Cutler salon stylist Mike Martinez. “It’s big, loose natural waves that create a sort of undone look.”

Another popular look is created from tighter curls that have been deconstructed for a voluminous look with a lot of movement. “This is a style I want to see more of,” says Mixon. “The bigger the better!”

Frizz has also become a fashion forerunner, according to Danilo: “I love the drama of frizz. It’s got a really playful structure.”

Working with a model’s hair texture, whether it’s frizz or flat, is becoming a popular method for runway stylists. Carlos Fernandez of LuxeLab, who is known for his innovative work in enhancing texture for runway shows, likes to adapt a model’s hair texture to the runway concept.

“If a look is straight with a deep side part, but a model has super kinky hair, I won’t necessarily blow the hair straight, but I will work to enhance the natural texture and incorporate the deep side part. It looks better on the model and is less work for the stylist,” he says.

However, texture isn’t always seen in variations of curls and waves. It’s also seen in the introduction of braids, twists, buns, knots and crimped pieces to the hair.

“Texture is about adding a bit of intrigue to the hair,” says Martinez. “It’s taking the extra step to add a bit of drama where the audience least expects it. That’s where you go from a normal salon style to a runway style.”

Mixon also noted that it’s rare to see a runway show without incorporating extensions into the looks: “Hair has to be exaggerated because it’s on stage,” she says.

Rising to the Challenge

Despite the growing popularity of texture on the runway, there still exists a lack of industry knowledge in working with curls.

“I learned how to work with textured hair because I am passionate about it and pursued working with texture on my own,” says Fashion Week stylist Jennifer Lord of Naturally Me! Salon in Baltimore. “It’s not something taught in cosmetology school.”

Behind the scenes of the Spring 2012 shows in Paris, model Jourdan Dunn tweeted her frustrations with lack of stylist knowledge in working with her texture.

“It’s so surprising to fi nd yourself at a show being styled by a stylist who knows how to work with my hair,” says model Nikia Phoenix.“I refuse to have my hair straightened anymore and I bring my own products because I’ve found I know texture better than most stylists. I keep my hair short because with less hair, there’s less risk of a stylist damaging my hair.”

What’s Next

With advancements in product formulations and tools, stylists are now equipped better than ever to create innovative, high-fashion, high-drama, haute-couture textured hair.

“Today we’re at the intersection of fashion and science,” says Danilo. “We have biological needs that science is helping to bring to the public.”

Because of that, interpretation of the word texture is going to be diverse: glam texture, ethnic texture, natural texture, manufactured texture and more. In the upcoming seasons, a return of vintage styling techniques such as setting, pin curls, plaiting, bouffant and fi nger waves combined with modern innovations in coloring and extensions will be the next wave in runway texture.

“The future is both a return to classic and natural techniques and hightech processes,” says Danilo. “Fashion is an opportunity to create a feeling, a vibe, a spirit.”

Searching for Hair Texture Satisfaction

by Michele Musgrove on Thursday, September 1st, 2011

The old phrase, “The grass is always greener on the other side,” refers to the tendency we humans have of examining each other’s lives and believing that others are better off than we are, even when they’re not.

Nowhere does that phrase ring more true than when it comes to contemplating our hair texture. Girls with thin, straight, lackluster locks always seem to be gazing over the fence at the girls with the curly, wavy tresses. And the girls with the natural whirls, twirls and kinks always seem to be sneaking a peek at the girls with the shiny, sleek hair.

And, aren’t we all glad that they do? That yearning is one of the most important motivators for driving clients into your chair. When clients are disillusioned with their hair texture, they seek shelter where a professional can offer them expert guidance and advice, a selection of skilled-based services, and shelves of products that benefit their unique hair type.

And, lucky are those clients who discover the wizened pros who help them understand, enhance and celebrate the beauty of their own texture, and teach them how to mix it up when the urge for change is irresistible.

As the cultures that make up America’s great melting pot continue to blend, a growing number of stylists are seeing the benefits of being able to work with a variety of waves, curls and kinks. By broadening their textural horizons, stylists are finding they can open up their books to a variety of new clients. Many soon discover they are tapping into an unmet need within their own communities, and before they know it, they’re being touted as texture experts and are catering to a whole niche market.

All in all, that’s good for business.

In the next edition of Texture!, brought to you through a collaboration of MODERN SALON and, we share strategies for honing and marketing your curl expertise, reveal the top five common curl mistakes, discover the boom in botanical oil-based products, and look into the new generation of Keratin treatments. As always, the texture conversation continues at MODERN SALON and

Read all of this bi-annual issue of Texture!

Texture: The Season of Texture!

by Modern Salon on Wednesday, September 1st, 2010


Learn more about Texture!, a collaboration between CurlStylist, NaturallyCurly and Modern Salon

By all appearances, fall 2010 will go down in fashion history as “the season of texture.” Dozens of notable fashion designers have eschewed straight strands, embracing instead all manner of curls, coils, crimps, waves and teased clouds of hair on their catwalks.

Miley Cyrus

Miley Cyrus

On the West Coast, style setters are also advancing the texture trend. Nearly every red carpet is adorned with sexy, romantic textures, made popular by stars like Taylor Swift, Miley Cyrus, Kate Hudson, Charlize Theron and Beyonce.

“Clients today are requesting anything but flat hair,” says Lina Shamoun, a 2010 North American Hairstyling Awards Texture Finalist from Kitchener, Ontario.

And regardless of whether clients are starting out with natural curl, wave or pin-straight strands, everyone has texture options this season!

Natural Curl: Embrace and Refine

“Curly hair is coming into its own,” says Titi Branch, co-owner of Miss Jessie’s Products and Salon in New York. “Twenty years ago, we wouldn’t even be talking about curly hair because people straightened their curls.

Michelle Obama

Michelle Obama

“Now, women want to embrace their natural, healthy curl. Michelle Obama even wore curls to a state dinner recently— for her to do so really validates the beauty of the look.”

But curly can also be high maintenance, admits Branch, which is why the current trend is a smoother, looser curl pattern.

“This allows a woman to keep her curl,” she explains, “but refine it.” At Miss Jessie’s, this elongated curl is achieved with the salon’s proprietary “Silkener” service. The technique involves a sodium hydroxide relaxer and a method of manipulation that stretches, yet doesn’t straighten, the hair.

“The result,” says Branch, “is hair that behaves like natural hair when it’s wet—before it dries and shrinks. It’s wash and go—it cuts styling time in half.” To support natural curls, Branch recommends Miss Jessie’s Curly Pudding treatment—a perennial favorite that combines macadamia and almond oil, aloe and shea butter for shine, plumping and moisture.

Curl definition is also imperative for Shawna Parvin’s curly clients, and the most modern approach, says the Aquage educator, NAHA 2009 Texture Winner and 2010 Hairstylist of the Year nominee, is to mix it up—random curl sizes, directions and even amounts of definition. “I’m telling my clients to start with a gel on damp hair,” she says, and comb it through scalp to ends. “Then wind sections of varying sizes, in every direction, so they look like little snakes. Don’t touch the hair until it’s completely dry, then move it around and even pull a few random pieces apart so there’s some fuzz mixed in with the curl. That’s what keeps curl from looking like the ’80s.”

Options are important for women with any texture, and naturally curly clients will always want blowouts for occasions when their hair must look polished, says Dickey, owner of New York’s Hair Rules Salon and hair products company. What makes blowouts look fresh this season, he says, is a voluminous, soft, Mad Men-inspired look, with lots of flattering movement around the face.

“Bone straight doesn’t work for most women,” he comments. “Waves and curls look softer on anyone—it’s ‘instant youth.’”

Making Waves—Keep it Raw

When it comes to creating curls and waves, the perfectly formed curls are evolving into a rougher, more raw-edged texture, says Chad Seale of Salt Lake City, another 2010 NAHA Texture finalist.

“Waves will be more vertical, looser, less constructed than we’ve seen in past seasons,” agrees Darby Shields, Associate Artistic Director of ISO International.

Wavy Hair

When it comes to these vertical waves, there’s also a new silhouette worth noting, adds Seale, namely, a flatter crown with more volume through the midlengths and ends. Seale loves this texture and shape on shorter-length bobs—actress Charlize Theron has been seen sporting the look. To permanently create this casual texture on tightly curly hair, Shields steers clients to the ISO Maintamer.

“This formula gives stylists plenty of control,” she explains. “Leave it on for five minutes, and it eliminates frizz but maintains the curl pattern. Leave it on for 30 minutes and it straightens more completely.”

To produce loose, ropey, “Gisele” texture with a thermal iron, Shields first mists strands with a combination of ISO Color Preserve Thermal Shield Spray and Daily Shape Working Spray, then wraps sections of hair vertically around the outside of a curling iron, simultaneously twisting each section onto itself like a rope. Once the hair cools completely, she gently releases the twists, revealing “a spiral, vertical wave with lots of internal torque.”

The flat iron is another excellent tool for creating this type of natural-looking body and texture. Many of today’s irons feature beveled plates, which give them the versatility to straighten and shape hair. One of Lina Shamoun’s favorite strategies is to divide hair into thin, one-inch sections, place the flatiron at the root, wind the section once around the iron and draw the tool through to the ends.

“When you release it, the hair will fall into a soft, flowing wave,” she explains.

The beach trend—textured, separated, sea-tossed strands—has generated a number of beach spray products that are great for supporting these looks or for use as stand-alone body boosters.

Color for Curl

With celebrities like Sarah Jessica Parker and Jennifer Aniston leading the way, the hottest hair color trend of the moment is the graduated “I spent last month on the beach and now it’s growing out” effect. Characterized by deeper roots and lighter midshafts and ends, it’s a deliberate technique to approximate “vacation regrowth.” The look is perfect for the twists and turns of textured hair, as long as the technique is done correctly.

Seale believes baliage is the best strategy—this freehand hair-painting method allows the colorist to place the tint exactly where the sun would kiss each strand, namely, on the rounds and fullest parts of each curl and in an unstructured fashion.

“So if your client wears her hair curly,” Seale advises, “don’t blow her hair straight and do a color weave. You’ll get six different colors on one curl and that doesn’t work.”

Additionally, says Seale, opt for high-lift permanent colors when baliaging curls, rather than bleach. “Bleach tends to swell the hair and cause it to become dryer,” he believes.

This hair type is already susceptible to dryness, he adds, so it’s better to use hair color that tends to impart less damage. Shields agrees that baliage is the best way to achieve the dark-to-light look, and advises stylists to work with fairly large sections. “Apply your color to each section randomly,” she suggests. “And for your application pattern, let the trajectory of the waves guide you—dropping off of the crown. Try some ‘peek-a-boo’ foils under the surface, too.

“All of this will create a purposeful, grown-out look, which clients today love since it’s chic and it allows them to stretch their retouching dollars!”

A Pill to “Fix” Textured Hair?

by CurlStylist on Thursday, December 10th, 2009

curly hair

Do these three textured lovelies need a pill to straighten their hair?

Scientists who discovered the ‘curly gene‘ are developing a treatment that could spell the end of hair straighteners.

It is hoped the breakthrough could lead to a pill to make hair straighter or curlier, rendering the must-have beauty accessory redundant.

The discovery will also make it possible to predict whether a baby will have straight or curly hair.

And it may even help police, with DNA found at the scene of the crime indicating how wavy a suspect’s locks are.

Researchers in Australia identified the trichohyalin gene as being mainly responsible for creating curls.

Although it was known to play a role in the development of the hair follicle, Queensland Institute of Medical Research scientists have discovered its role in curliness.

Professor Nick Martin, author of the research, said a variation in the gene determined the straightness or curliness of hair. Professor Martin said it may be possible to come up with treatments to make hair straighter rather than relying on heated hair straighteners.

He said: “Potentially we can now develop new treatments to make hair curlier or straighter, rather than treating the hair directly.

“I will be discussing this with a major cosmetic company in Paris in January,” he said. (NaturallyCurly guesses this is L’Oreal, who supposedly has been working on a pill for curly hair for some time.)

— The Daily Mail

Looking for More Curly Clients?

by Staff on Wednesday, August 5th, 2009

We all have experienced the power of customer reviews — we use Consumer Reports for our electronic purchases, Yelp for restaurant recommendations, and Trip Advisor for travel recommendations. So how important are these customer reviews?

hairstylist quote

Customer reviews are highly valued, research shows.

Very important, it seems. Consumer reviews and rating are popping up on an increasing number of web sites, sites on which users treat brands and services like contestants on American Idol. People are very interested in what their peers have to say, whether negative or positive. Over half the people in the U.S. said they trusted their peers or “a person like me” for information about a company, product, or service — more than they trusted expert sources.

So how else can you help fight the economic downturn, increase your customer reviews on CurlStylist’s sister site and increase your clientele? According to Marketing Sherpa, 58% of surveyed respondents said they strongly prefer sites that have customer reviews. Not only do the reviews increase sales, they also entices other customers not previously willing to try a product or service to actually try it. This phenomena has led to happier clients and more sales.

What do you need to do next?

#1) Tell your favorite curly clients to write a review today. All they need to do is go to the CurlSalons section.
Reviews will generate more business for you in the long term. In fact, we can send you exclusive Mirror Decals and Curl cards for every client to see. Email us today to receive your Curl Ambassador packet.

#2) Another active approach you can take with CurlSalons on is to sign on to advertise in the monthly state program. To learn more about promoting your salon on, contact us.

Salon Industry Outlook Improving

by Staff on Tuesday, August 4th, 2009

Phoenix, AZ (August 4, 2009) — The outlook for the salon/spa industry improved in the second quarter, as the Professional Beauty Association’s (PBA) comprehensive index of salon/spa activity registered a solid gain. The Association’s Salon/Spa Performance Index (SSPI) — a new quarterly composite index that tracks the health of and outlook for the U.S. salon/spa industry — stood at 101.8 in the second quarter, up 0.7 percent from its first quarter level.

“The SSPI rose in the second quarter, and stood above 100, which is a positive sign for the overall health of our industry,” said Steve Sleeper, executive director of PBA. “Salon/spa owners reported a positive six-month economic outlook for both sales and the overall economy, while capital spending plans held relatively steady.”

The Salon/Spa Performance Index is based on the responses to PBA’s Salon/Spa Industry Tracking Survey, which is fielded quarterly among salon/spa owners nationwide on a variety of indicators including service and retail sales, customer traffic, employee/hours and capital expenditures. The Index consists of two components — the Current Situation Index and the Expectations Index.

The Salon/Spa Performance Index is constructed so that the health of the salon/spa industry is measured in relation to a steady-state level of 100. Index values above 100 indicate that key industry indicators are in a period of expansion, while index values below 100 represent a period of contraction for key industry indicators.

The Current Situation Index, which measures current trends in five industry indicators (service sales, retail sales, customer traffic, employees/hours and capital expenditures), stood at 99.7 in the second quarter - up 0.9 percent from its first quarter level of 98.8. However, the Current Situation Index remained below 100 in the second quarter, which signifies contraction in the current situation indicators.

Salon/spa owners reported an improvement in service sales in the second quarter. Thirty-nine percent of salon/spa owners reported an increase in same-store service sales between the second quarters of 2008 and 2009, up from 35 percent who reported a sales gain in the first quarter. Thirty-nine percent of salon/spa owners reported a same-store service sales decline in the second quarter, down from 44 who reported lower sales in the first quarter.

Although the overall retail sales picture improved somewhat in the second quarter, salon/spa owners continued to report lower retail sales volume. Thirty-three percent of salon/spa owners reported higher retail sales between the second quarters of 2008 and 2009, up from 26 percent who reported a retail sales gain in the first quarter. Forty-four percent of salon/spa owners reported lower retail sales in the second quarter, down from 49 percent who reported similarly in the first quarter.

Salon/spa owners reported a solid improvement in customer traffic levels in the second quarter. Thirty-eight percent of salon/spa owners reported an increase in customer traffic between the second quarters of 2008 and 2009, while only 31 percent said their customer traffic levels declined. In the first quarter, 33 percent of salon/spa owners reported an increase in customer traffic, while 40 percent reported traffic declines.

Labor indicators were a mixed bag in the second quarter, with salon/spa owners reporting slightly higher staffing levels but a decline in employee hours. Twenty-eight percent of salon/spa owners said they added employees between the second quarters of 2008 and 2009, while 23 percent said they reduced staffing levels.

In contrast, 24 percent of salon/spa owners said they cut employee hours between the second quarters of 2008 and 2009, while only 15 percent increased employee hours.

The Expectations Index, which measures salon/spa owners’ six-month outlook for five industry indicators (service sales, retail sales, employees/hours, capital expenditures and business conditions), stood at 103.9 in the second quarter - up 0.6 percent from its first quarter level. In addition, the Expectations Index stood well above 100, which indicates a solid level of optimism among salon/spa owners for industry growth in the months ahead.

Growth in the Expectations Index was driven by an increasingly optimistic outlook for sales growth in the months ahead. Sixty percent of salon/spa owners said they expect to have higher service sales in six months (compared to the same period in the previous year), up from 54 percent who reported similarly last quarter. Only 13 percent of salon/spa owners expect their service sales volume in six months to be lower than it was during the same period in the previous year, down slightly from 15 percent who reported similarly last quarter.

A majority of salon/spa owners also expect to see retail sales growth in the months ahead. Fifty-one percent of salon/spa owners said they expect to have higher retail sales in six months (compared to the same period in the previous year), up from 46 percent who reported similarly last quarter. In comparison, 15 percent expect their retail sales to decline in six months (compared to the same period in the previous year), down from 22 percent who reported similarly last quarter.

Salon/spa owners are also decidedly upbeat about the direction of the overall economy. Sixty-three percent of salon/spa owners said they expect economic conditions to improve in six months, while only six percent expect to see worse economic conditions in six months. This sentiment was relatively unchanged from first quarter levels.

“The Professional Beauty Association continues to supply the beauty industry with timely and relevant economic data to help our members and the industry at large make successful and strategic business decisions” said Steve Sleeper “doing so is a core mission of the PBA.”

The full SSPI and second quarter Salon/Spa Tracking Survey Report can be found at

Entries (RSS) and Comments (RSS)