Posts Tagged ‘Texture!’

Making the Texture Switch

by CurlStylist on Friday, March 8th, 2013

The client comes in expecting a blowout. That’s what she’s always had, so that’s what she expects. But, deep down, that’s not always what she wants. What the client wants is to feel beautiful.And for curly clients, the road to feeling beautiful has, well, twists. Sometimes it’s a blowout or straightening service, while other times natural alternatives can give curlies a fresh look for a day or an entire season. Driven by celebrity and fashion trends, stylists across the country are taking curly clients by the hand and guiding them down the winding path that leads straight to the heart of who they are. The “true texture” benefits are obvious to the client—but also powerful and profitable for the salon and stylist, given the range of new curl-enhancing products and service opportunities that the professional beauty industry has created to help clients celebrate texture as well as tame it. “In the consultation, I ask about the client’s goals and get her hair history,” says Tracy Aaron, a stylist at 7 Salon in Bellevue, Washington. Many times, she finds that women want to embrace their curl but have not been taught any styling strategies except how to dry their hair straight. “Consultation is a huge part of the service even with clients you’ve had for a long time,” agrees Jessica McConnell, assistant manager at Frontenac Salon and Spa in St. Louis, Missouri. “Clients leave you because they can’t get something new. They may want something fresh or fun just for that day, so we help people discover their curls.” Some days, the weather impacts which style will fare best. In the Northwest, where it rains a lot, Aaron says a smooth, straight look can lose its “wow” factor when the client walks out into the drizzle. Mindi Umbrell, a stylist at Akada Salon in Columbus, Ohio, is an advocate for working with someone’s natural texture to “mix it up” and offer options. “If someone is flatironing or blowing it out every single day, I teach her how to wear her hair in a natural way instead of fighting it,” she explains. “But if I have a client who absolutely hates her curl and isn’t going to change, then I will teach her how to keep her hair healthy.” When you assume every curly client wants a straight look, you forfeit the opportunity to educate her about her options, adds Aaron. “I lose the chance to watch that client leave the salon with a big smile, thanking me for opening up her world to something she already had but didn’t know how to bring out,” she says. Thinking along the same lines is Wafaya Abdallah, owner of Oasis Salon in Rockville, Maryland. “We call it ‘setting them free,’” says Abdallah. “because they’re embracing who they are. When women see how beautiful their curly hair looks with no frizz and without taking off too much length, I’ve had women cry in my chair.” In Houston, independent stylist Geri Curtis says that women are so accustomed to straightening their hair that they can’t believe the curly look she fashions for them is their hair. “I’ve had clients tell me that I’ve changed their life—that it’s a miracle,” says Curtis, who plans an April opening for her new salon, aptly called Planet Curls. “And male clients come in with big frizz! I teach them how to manage it, and they go from being hippies to these dudes with beautiful curls!”

The salon visit is an awakening, agrees Marie Sansom of Curly Cutz by Marie at New Images Salon in Georgetown, Texas. When you give clients the tools and the knowledge that they need for their hair type, you help them like their hair. “They see that they can achieve an even curl,” Sansom says. “By the time we’re finished, they’re amazed—and I’m amazed, too! It’s exciting to see how each head of hair will turn out!” Like Aaron, Sansom looks at every curly encounter as an opportunity to educate. Booking each new client into a two-hour slot, Sansom tells these clients, “I’m going to break down what you think you know about your hair, and then I’m going to build up new knowledge.” How They Started “Although cosmetology school did not teach us effective curly-hair techniques in school, I thought I knew about curly hair because I had curly hair,” says Sansom. “But I didn’t know anything; I had always straightened my hair.” Beginning in 2007, Sansom took three years off to stay at home with her children and spent that time researching the art and science of curly hair and experimenting on her own hair. For Aaron, who does not have curly hair, the curly cue clicked when 13 years ago a regular client told her, “I really like you. You’re a great person. But I hate the way you do my hair.” She wanted to wear her hair curly, not blown out, so Aaron made a deal: she’d do the client’s cuts for free if she could practice her skills on her. “It took some trial and error,” Aaron continues. “I asked the advice of other stylists, and I went online to learn about porosity, texture and curl patterns. But mostly I listened to my clients, learning what had and hadn’t worked for them. Even though I had a strong background in cutting, I’d approached cutting from a perspective of precision, so I had to readjust my thinking.” It took Aaron three years to develop the expertise, and by then she had so many curly clients that she could specialize. Now when clients ask for a blowout or flatironing, she refers them to other stylists in the salon. Umbrell has enjoyed exploring natural textures of all kinds ever since training in the Vidal Sassoon method. “I found that I agreed with the Sassoon philosophy of working with what the client naturally has,” Umbrell says. “It’s rare that you see Sassoon instructors pull out any kind of iron; they don’t even use round brushes. They’re all about giving someone an awesome cut for her natural texture.” Through advocating this approach and wearing her own curl in a natural style, Umbrell found herself attracting a large curly clientele and now thinks of herself as a curl expert while still enjoying all types of hair. “I’m an artist and love the diversity,” says Umbrell. A’Kiyia Kelly also entered the specialty through a preference for natural texture. “There was no dramatic turning point,” says Kelly, who’s been doing hair for 20 years and now has A’Kiyia’s Natural Twist & Hair Braiding in Kennesaw, Georgia. “I got tired of experiencing breakage from too many perms, too much heat. I educated myself about braiding and other natural styles, improving my skills by practicing on myself and my mom, talking to other stylists and watching styling videos.” Abdallah didn’t find the curly-hair specialty as much as the specialty found her—through retail. She’d been doing hair for 20 years when a salesperson wanted her to try a line of products targeted to curlies. “We put them on the shelf,” she recalls, “and all of a sudden clients started asking whether we were now doing naturally curly hair!” The timing was right. She and her stylists invested in training, and now the majority of the salon’s clients ask for a natural texture look. McConnell was drawn to curly hair because she and the salon’s owner both wanted to embrace her own texture. Eight years ago they took a class and, with their sharpened skills, their curly clients started looking better and that attracted more curly clients. “When we took that first class, we had no idea the impact it would have on our business,” McConnell says. “We weren’t trying to start a revolution. But within about a year we realized the effect we were having, so we sought out more education.” To promote their new expertise, the salon’s website is CallingAllCurls.com. The Money Follows Naming your salon or website something specific to curly hair is one way to market your expertise, confirms Michelle Breyer, president of Texture Media Inc. and co-founder of consumer web site NaturallyCurly.com. If you prefer not to make that much of a commitment, you can still develop natural texture business by presenting all the alternatives to every curly client. “Blowing out the client’s curls has become a revenue source that stylists and salons are used to,” Breyer says. “But a growing number of women want to know all their options with curly hair. By providing them with options, you will expand your market, not shrink it.” Curtis’ experience bears this out. “Now I have a wait list, which I never had,” she says. McConnell adds, “We think of ourselves as a family salon, so we do have straight-haired clients, but today about 70 percent are curly. It’s a niche market; if you spend the time to learn about curly hair, it will help your business. It’s kept us busy at a time when other salons weren’t.” Abdallah made the switch to primarily natural looks at what might have seemed the worst possible time—in 2008, just as the economy was sinking— and yet her salon thrived. “That first year the salon grew 20 percent,” she reports. “We’ve grown every year since, and we don’t advertise at all.” As Abdallah discovered, word-ofmouth tends to drive the natural texture business. At her salon with only five stylists, Abdallah counts 50 to 70 new referrals a month, increasing in summertime to 100 or even more. Every six to eight months, she’s had to add another stylist. Professionally crafted braids and twists are client magnets. “People with those looks attract attention,” says Kelly. “Women are always asking my clients for the name of the stylist who did their hair. I also get a lot of clients through YouTube; I demonstrate braiding on videos, and I have a lot of subscribers.” Agrees Breyer, “People walk up to curlies on the street if they like their look. Curly clients also are very loyal and will travel hours for the right stylist.” Curlies tend to be enthusiastic and are willing to write reviews for stylists who solve their hair issues, plus the specialty can earn attention from the press. “My initial curly client wrote the first review of me on NaturallyCurly.com,” says Aaron, “and then a local magazine wrote an article about me. That’s when my business really took off.” Some stylists charge a premium for the more complicated texture hair cut, and up-servicing can become a further revenue source. Umbrell builds her curly clients’ tickets with glossing to bring out the shine. “Glosses give the client versatility,” she says. “On curly hair, which is more porous, the glosses fade really nicely.” An increasingly popular way to generate curly business is to hold “curly night out” educational parties. It’s a great way to sell retail, which in itself boosts the curly ticket. As Curtis observes: “Curly girls buy a million products.” Read the digital version of Texture!

Today’s Texture! Behind the Cover

by CurlStylist on Monday, March 4th, 2013

Our cover style for this issue of Texture! shows a commercial variation on long hair. Created by a team of texture experts from TIGI, the look was achieved on hair that had a lot of natural texture and was nearly all one length, with only slight layering. The second look was created by using bobby pins to grab internal lengths across the crown, pulling them into a shape that gives the illusion of more layers and pinning them across the crown.

Leading the team were TIGI U.S. Education Director Thomas Osborn and U.S. Creative Director heath Grout, who also did the photography. Both mentored by TIGI founder and industry icon Anthony Mascolo, Osborn and Grout have been with the company for 23 and 17 years, respectively. Grout is primarily based at the TIGI Advanced Hairdressing Academy in New York City, where he helps to develop ideas for new collections. Osborn is creative and educational director of the new flagship academy in NYC’s Soho district. He plays a key role in forecasting trends as well as inspiring team members to fulfill their artistic potential.

“People are embracing their natural texture,” Osborn observes. “our model for this shoot loved the natural look we gave her. We thought we might have to curl her hair, but when we shampooed it we saw that she had beautiful, natural wave. She watched how I combed and dried her hair, and she took home all of the products we used so that she could recreate the same touchable, soft, romantic curls. Once you share that with someone, you have a client for life.”

1. After wetting the hair, apply two products - TIGI Curlesque and TIGI Bedhead On the Rebound. Comb through with a wide-tooth comb, and squeeze out the moisture with a towel.

2. Attach a diffuser and set the dryer on low speed and low heat. Tilt head to the side, start from the perimeter length and push the diffuser up the length.

3. Avoid focusing on one side at a time. instead, keep the rotation going to produce an even curl pattern.

4. When hair is completely dry, let it cool. Then have the client flip over her head and shake out her hair to add volume.

Hair team: Thomas Osborn, Adriana Papaleo, Christopher Catanese, Brian Adelman

Photography: Heath Grout

Make-up: Julie Pope

Styling: Cindy Jo Taylor

Read the digital version of Texture!

The Name Game, Texturrific Salon Names

by CurlStylist on Monday, March 4th, 2013


Salon owners have always used wordplay to find cute names for their businesses. Some salons that focus on curl are spinning that tradition, while others are proclaiming their specialty more directly. Check out these texturiffic names spotted on salon signage around North America.

Amazing Kinkz Natural Hair Studio, Detroit MI

Cally’s Curls & Co., Chicago, IL

Curl Lounge, Raleigh, NC

Curl Ambassadors, Toronto, ON

Curl Bar Beauty Salon, Toronto, ON

Curl Jam, Bethesda, MD

Twist, Philadelphia, PA

Curl Revolution, Frisco, TX

Curl Up & Dye, Carrboro, NC

Curlie Girlz Rock, Smyrna, GA

Curls & Co., Chicago, IL

Curls Gone Wild, Gilbert, AZ

Curls On Top, Laguna Beach, CA

Curltopia, Smyrna, GA

Curly Hair Institute, Toronto, ON

So Curly So Kinky So Straight, South Euclid, OH

Kinky Rootz, Nashville, TN

Coils, Curls and Waves, Freehold, NJ

Joyfully Curly, Charlotte, NC

The Kindred Locs Studio, Oxon Hill, MD

Fabulocs, Capitol Heights, MD

Knatty Headz, Houston, TX

Curly Hair Vancouver, Vancouver, BC

Salon Spirals, Tucson, AZ

Spiral Evolution, Colorado Springs, CO

Ringlets, Oakland, CA

Does your salon have a curl-crazy name? Let us know! Post it on MODERN SALON’s Facebook page, and you might find it in a future issue update!

Read the digital version of Texture!

Extend your Biz, Hair Extensions for Curly Hair

by CurlStylist on Monday, March 4th, 2013

Hair extensions represent one of the hottest categories for salons right now, and curly clients are stronger prospects for this problem-solving service than you might think. Leading extension brands have recognized the opportunity and many create special extensions to match curl patterns and to help you help clients transition between texture changes, add volume or length, and more. Visit their web sites and ask about specific training or solutions for naturally curly and other texture types. (See the special Extension Trends section on page 110 in MODERN’s March Issue).

Here are five reasons to consider adding texture-enhancing extensions to your portfolio of curly expertise:

1. The bad cut. When NaturallyCurly.com polled consumers and asked what was the worst mistake a stylist has made on their hair, cutting it too short was number one. Hair extensions make the recovery process easier to bear.

2. The vertically challenged. Dry and damaged curls are prone to breakage so growth is a major challenge for texture hair, and for many women waiting for hair to grow only leads to frustration. Extensions let the consumer focus on all the reasons she loves her curls.

3. Pure drama. Extensions have the dramatic effect we want for the red carpet moments in our lives, like weddings or proms.

4. The volume. Most people assume that curly hair equals thick hair, but curl pattern is only one part of the equation. Density, width and length determine thickness and volume, so extensions can help give a boost to fine-haired curlies.

5. The versatility. Everybody loves textured hair because of its chameleon-like qualities. Extensions are just one more tool in a curly’s toolbox to change her look day-to-day.

Read the digital version of Texture!

Creating Professional Hairstyles for Your Clients

by Cassadie on Saturday, September 1st, 2012

Every stylist has had a curly-haired client ask for a smooth blow-out in order to look professional at a work conference or to make a good impression at a job interview.

“I find that clients with curly hair believe that they’re taken more seriously if their hair is straight,” explains Morgan Wilheite, creative director at Ouidad. Having frizzy and unruly hair at a business meeting can be the equivalent of showing up wearing a tank top and shorts, so curlies either straighten their hair or slick it back into a ponytail.

But curls and briefcases need not be mutually exclusive. By giving clients a curl-specific cut and color and then empowering them with the skills, tools and care routines they need to maintain it, you can ensure their curls will be workplace-ready. “Professional curly hair is all about maintenance and how you present it,” says Marie France, owner of Madusalon in San Francisco. “Dry hair tied back in a ponytail is not professional; it just shows lack of attention. What says ‘professional’ is moisture. It’s a cut, it’s style, it’s care.”

The Foundation: A Good Cut

Whether she plans on wearing her hair loose or pinned up in a style, a curly client must be cut in a way that enhances her texture, not works against it. The cutting of textured hair presents a unique opportunity not only to create volume, shape and dimension, but also to control the curl. “The key is to make sure the hair is cut in a way that is conducive to the curl pattern, especially if the client plans on wearing her hair curly,” explains Rafe Hardy, artistic creative director at Sexy Hair Concepts. “If you’re cutting waves, for example, don’t cut the hair in the middle of the S-pattern, because that’s when it will kick out. Make sure to cut at the beginning of the wave so that it naturally curves under.”

Executing a proper curly hair cut using techniques you wouldn’t use on straight hair presents an opportunity for you to develop and demonstrate an expertise in texture. Once recognized as a curl-savvy stylist, you can promote your texture specialty to increase your income and client base. “Stylists who specialize in curly cuts tend to have a cult following,” Hardy notes. “If you can build up a business that includes people with textured hair, you’ll be sure to gain influence in this specific curly niche.”

9-to-5 Styling + Care

Once your client’s curls are clipped into shape, the next step is determining a maintenance routine and some workday styling options. Throughout your client’s appointment, you can explain the building blocks of styling curls so that her natural texture will no longer be limited to the weekend. “When a client is in your chair, this is the opportunity to show her results and teach her how to achieve them on her own,” explains Hardy. “More than with any other client, styling curly hair should be about education. Show these clients how to diffuse their curls and scrunch in product so that they can take the good curl care habits home with them.”

For the client, the benefits of a good session with her stylist are both immediate and long-lasting. “My hair used to be dry and frizzy so I always pulled it back at work because I didn’t know how to give it the attention it needs,” confides one salon client, Paloma Herman, who became loyal to a salon once she found a stylist who specializes in textured hair. Co-director of admissions at the San Francisco School, Herman says this was the first stylist who’d ever given her a cut that was “intentional and mature.” She adds, “The stylist showed me how to maintain it with only a couple of products. Since then, I’ve been much more comfortable with wearing my curls loose in the office.”

Salon client Bianca Ummat, a Resident MD in Washington, DC, interacts with patients on a daily basis and, to prevent a health hazard, needs to have her hair pulled back from her face. Still, she wants style. “I like to switch it up,” Bianca says. “I do loose buns, ponytails and braids to keep my curls from being in the way.” To secure curls away from the face, Wilheite advises using pins as opposed to ponytail holders. “A slick ponytail is a very severe look and potentially damaging to curls,” she says. “Instead, use larger bobby pins to pull pieces back and secure pieces section by section for a professional style that is also gentle on curls.” For longer curls from loose to tight, Wilheite suggests an on-trend high bun, again using bobby pins to secure the hair around the base.

For tighter curls that have the tendency to shrink up to 80 percent of their length, Product Specialist and Celebrity Stylist Felicia Leatherwood suggests styles allowing the back section of the hair to remain loose while the front sections are pulled away from the face in a half ponytail or bouffant, or sweeping just one side back and securing with a pin. “This allows your clients and colleagues to focus on the face, eyes and smile, not the hair,” says Leatherwood, who offers chemical-free solutions to her ethnic clients who struggle with trying to wear their natural hair at the office.

Some Like it Straight

Even with the right curly cut and maintenance routine available to them, many curly-haired professionals prefer to wear their hair straight. “That’s the beauty of curls,” says Hardy. “They’re so versatile. One day they can be full and voluminous, and the next they can be sleek and straight.”

Consult with your stylist to determine how to incorporate a straight look into a curly styling routine.

Some options:
1. Schedule a blow-out as part of the client’s regular visit so she can leave with sleek hair and wear it straight for a few days.
2. Set up a blow-out bar for clients to walk in for a professional blow-out at their convenience between cuts.
3. Provide a professional smoothing treatment to reduce frizz while allowing the client to easily toggle between straight and curly styles. “There are many women who do not have a preference for work between straight or curly,” says Hardy. “They just love having the option to do both!”

Put Your Best Curl Forward

Your clients’ looks can be almost as important as their PowerPoint presentation for navigating their career path. Professional curly hair is about mitigating the hair’s tendency to be unkempt, which means keeping frizz, dryness and flyaways in check by promoting the hair’s health and hydration. Encourage clients to take the extra step for their curls, such as deep conditioning before an interview, or even style and diffuse them before a presentation.

“Your clients’ curls represent their personality, so you really want them looking their best,” encourages Wilheite. “Curls show off a distinctive personality and self-confidence, which is critical in business.” By starting with a proper cut, style and color to enhance texture and then giving clients the education and tools to maintain their curls, you can ensure that your curly clients look great on every rung of the career ladder—from the interview to the boardroom. “I used to think of my hair as something that detracted from my professional appearance,” says Paloma Herman. “Now that I know how to take care of my curls, they’ve become an asset.”

Is Frizz the New Trend?

by Tracey on Saturday, September 1st, 2012

Just when we’re laser focused on the matter and finally winning the battle against frizz, we glance up to notice something on the horizon.

Oh no, frizz is making a reappearance! But wait. It’s different. It’s—it’s pretty! From the catwalks to the coasts, frizz is seriously trending. In a way, that means textured clients can let out a collective sigh of relief. Frizz is at least the devil they know.

Nature’s Gift

“Curly and wavy hair textures tend to naturally be more frizzy,” says Davin Alan Testerman, artistic style manager at Kenra Professional. “The core bonds of the hair shaft are crooked and, even if healthy, have the tendency to appear frizzy.”

Furthermore, because of the structure of wavy, curly and coily hair, it is harder for the scalp’s natural oils to move down the hair shaft. Less oil means less hydration, and less hydration means more frizz.

“Hair becomes frizzy when it lacks moisture, which can happen from styling methods, chemical services or natural occurrence,” says Jaritza Ortiz, education and testing coordinator at GK Hair. “When there is high humidity in the air, hair tends to pull in needed moisture, thereby causing frizz.”

Frizz as Fashion

Accepting their frizzy fate, curlies have learned to live with it or conquer it, but they haven’t glorified it in decades. This was one pendulum that was rarely predicted to swing back. But pendulums always do.

“Frizz is becoming more of a trend on the runway because, quite simply, it’s time,” says Testerman. “The looks on the silver screen, runways and magazine covers have been straight for so long that the avant-garde direction that sashays down the runway should seem to go to the extreme of curly-frizzy.”

Houston salon owner Efrain Leiva, an educator and international platform artist for Farouk, agrees. “This look is coming because the younger generation hasn’t tried it yet,” he observes.

“Now that they’re seeing it, they’ll want to try it.”

And they’ll be seeing more of it, says Ortiz, who notes that hair silhouettes always balance clothing design. “Runway fashion for this fall is showing military chic, with sleek lines and olive green and brass, along with the laminated look,”she adds. “Those masculine styles and hard finishes are complemented by a softer, frizzy, romantic style.”

On Main Street, Leiva sees the trend more as evolution than revolution.

“Right now only the trendiest clients are asking for frizz,” he says. “In New York and L.A., there are women from all over the world, so clients are more exposed to international looks, but here in Houston we’re not seeing a lot of it. However, our clients are getting into wavy hair. Before we get them into frizzy hair, we have to move them into a nice wave — a softer look — and after that it will slowly happen.”

That was Then

Perhaps salon clients have to first trust that this is not their mother’s — or grandmother’s—frizz.

“The last time we had the chance to see a true shift from sleek-straight trends was the transition from Cher’s parted-down the-middle ’70s ’do to the over-processed and big hair of the ’80s,” says Testerman. While overprocessing may have been an appropriate vehicle at the time, it won’t fly today. But neither will the opposite — just letting hair have its way.

“In the ’80s, most of the frizz was natural,” says Leiva. “Today we make it happen with products, tools and even color techniques.”

Frizz-seeking clients will replace smoothing shampoos and conditioners with hydrating products. Instead of flat irons and curling irons, the heat tool of choice will be the blow dryer. And rather than drenching the hair in styling creams, they will rough up the cuticle with pomades and polishes.

“I love to see frizzy hair with shine in it,” Leiva says. “Use some spray to hold it, so it looks as though it’s been styled and didn’t just happen. This time around, we’re creating manageable frizz.”

Good Frizz / Bad Frizz

Frizz is already a big staple in current hair fashion. You know the messy French twist, braid, chignon or loose pony? Yep, the unfinished part—the coolest part—is frizz. But it’s good frizz.

“Good frizz is something we stylists call ‘flyaway hair,’” says Matrix Artistic Director Daniel Roldan, a hair stylist at NYC’s Cutler Salon and a finalist in the NAHA 2011 texture category. “When you have good frizz, the hair is light and airy. Bad frizz, on the other hand, is overworked and over-dry hair with no control.”

To create good frizz, first dry the hair thoroughly and apply product throughout the hair, Roldan advises.

“You can use a variety of tools,” he continues, naming a teasing comb, cushion brush and wig brush. “Once you have control of the hair’s direction, you can go against the grain to create the frizz.”

Farouk Educator and International Platform Artist Efrain Leiva uses the air from the blow dryer to do the backcombing for him.

“Hold the hair with the brush and apply some tension,” he directs. “Then to rough-up the hair, blow-dry toward the scalp — against the natural pattern.”

While color services have a purpose beyond that of frizzmaker, they can be worked to that added advantage. Leiva employs blonding baliage techniques to tease out the frizz.

“We place lighter color on the ends, and then we don’t style them,” he explains. “Very blonde color helps the hair on the ends become frizzy. These unfinished looks are very in style.”

The professionals at Global Keratin Hair offer this recipe for healthy, haute frizz:

1. Prep the hair by mixing a cocktail of GK Hair’s Curl Define Her and Leave In Cream.

2. Either let the hair dry naturally or gently use a diffuser.

3. Divide the hair into four sections, and grab chunks of about one inch each. Taking each chunk, do a few wraps with your index finger.

4. Holding the wrap gently between your thumb and index finger, push back with the thumb and index finger of your other hand. This will create a beautifully textured, curly, controlled frizz look.

5. Finish with the GK Hair Light Hold Hairspray.

From Kenra Professional come these tips:

1. After moisturizing the hair, use a curl-enhancing product such as Kenra Classic’s Curl Glaze Mousse 13, Curl Defining Creme 5 or Curl Spray 8. Choose the product most appropriate for the client’s hair type.

2. Diffuse the hair to maximize volume and promote lustrous curl.

3. After hair is dry, turn the head upside down, lightly mist an aerosol working spray and gently fluff and separate existing curl.

4. Flip hair back over and reapply a working spray such as Kenra Classic’s Design Spray 9 or Perfect Medium Spray 13.

5. For any desired curl formations that need to be touched up or enhanced with a small curling iron, spray Kenra Classic’s Thermal Styling Spray 19.

Texture! Behind the Cover

by Modern Salon on Saturday, September 1st, 2012

Our Cover Style for this issue’s Texture! was created by Kansas City stylist and 2012 NAHA finalist Rusty Phillips. It’s the beautiful result of Phillips’ participation in Modern Salon Media’s Artist Session, a workshop designed to guide salon professionals through the process of freelance styling as they develop their photo session skills and connect with like minded salon professionals. The owner of Belle Epoque Salon, Phillips has not only taken the class several times himself, but has sent staff to experience the session.

Since launching seven years ago, Belle Epoque has twice been recognized as one of SALON TODAY’s 200 Best, and Elle magazine has highlighted the business as one of America’s 100 Best Salons for the past three years. A stylist for more than 30 years, Phillips has forged a bond of trust with clients through his genuine desire and ability to and make a difference in their lives as he customizes each client’s visit. Although Phillips is the consummate styling pro, he has enjoyed each Artist Session as a haven where professionals learn from each other.

“I’ve learned to really go for it!” he says. “I held back a bit at my first session and, although pleased with my results, I knew I could do something more exciting. For this last session, I really pumped up the volume and texture. It was an unforgettable experience!”

It was the model’s own hair, along with a tool tucked into the Artist Session Goody Bag, that inspired Philips to create the look seen on the cover.

“My model had massively thick wavy hair, the kind of hair every woman dreams about,” he explains. “I wanted to create over-the-top volume and curl, and in the Goody Bag was a micro-crimper. This gave me an idea to create a distressed curl that was somewhat frizzy and  lived in.’” After prepping the hair with styling cream, Phillips dry-pincurled all of the hair and pressed each one with the crimper. He brushed out the set, then shampooed the hair with a dry shampoo to produce even more texture and volume. His finished look along with the Artist Session Creative Team resulted in a fabulous look for this issue of Texture.

The Texture! cover look was shot at a recent MODERN SALON Artist Session. Join editorial styling expert Maggie Mulhern with NAHA-nominated David Maderich and Roberto Ligresti for the next Artist Session workshop in New York City, October 2-3, and learn how to get your work published in magazines. Go to Modern Salon’s Artist Session to sign up.

2012 NAHA Texture Stylist of the Year

by Modern Salon on Saturday, September 1st, 2012

The North American Hairstyling Awards represents the pinnacle of achievement in all categories of hairdressing, texture included. Jasmine Gibbs of The Cutting Edge Salon in Brooklyn, New York was named Texture Stylist of the Year at the 2012 NAHA ceremony held July 22 in Las Vegas. Her exquisite entries won the day, but she had some very worth competition. Here are Gibbs’ winning looks along with entries from the other NAHA 2012 Texture finalists: Liz Nevin, Liz Nevin Hairstyling; Amy Freudenberg, Maka Beauty Systems; Jose Julian Macias Navarro, Leonel Alta Peluqueria; and Richie Roman, R Rated Hair.

Liz Nevin: Liz Nevin Hairstyling

Jasmine Gibbs: The Cutting Edge

Amy Freudenberg: Maka Beauty Systems

Jose Macias and Julian Navarro: Leonel Alta Peluqueria

Richie Roman: R Rated Hair

10 Things Your Clients Never Want to Hear

by Modern Salon on Saturday, September 1st, 2012

When your new client is a curly, peek behind her back. Are her fingers crossed? That’s because she’s hoping and wishing for a stylist who “gets” her. Be that stylist! To encourage that new client to become your permanent client, let her know that you love all hair textures and can offer her many options. Stay positive! You can be sure she’s already heard all of the negative comments:

1. “It’s so curly! Can I fix it for you?”
2. “I bet you wish you had straight hair.”
3. “This is going to take forever .”
4. “Your hair must be a nightmare for you to deal with on a daily basis.”
5. “Do you want me to use the thinning shears or the razor?”
6. “What race are you?”
7. “I had no idea your hair would shrink like that!”
8. “This is the only hair cut you can wear, because your hair is curly.”
9. “We don’t do ethnic hair.”
10. “Uh-oh!”

New Keratin Smoothing Treatment Products

by Cassadie on Saturday, September 1st, 2012

Over the past several years, the beauty industry has been revolutionized by the introduction of keratin smoothing treatments. With an ever-growing demand for this texture management solution, the keratin market has flourished. In just the past two years, the keratin landscape has undergone a rapid evolution bringing with it not just new treatments, but also a suite of keratin-infused retail products and tools geared toward providing and maintaining smoothing solutions for all textures of hair. As keratin smoothing treatments have evolved, so have consumer need and demand for aftercare products.

Keeping up with the “keratin kraze” means staying informed—and educating your clients—about new home care regimens that prolong the smoothing results.

The Evolution of Smooth

Keratin treatments were first introduced to the market as a nonpermanent solution for those who wanted to straighten their textured hair. There are now a plethora of available keratin options ranging from in-salon thermal applications to retail products that allow clients to choose from a variety of finished looks, from frizz free curls to sleek, smooth hair. “When GK Hair was founded, we had a high demand for poker straight hair,” explains Ashley Fenice, marketing coordinator for the company. “Everybody wanted the sleek, super-tamed look. Today’s consumer now is mainly looking for flexibility. More and more women are starting to embrace their curls and they want to be able to easily change from curls to straight hair.”

The keratin retail product and aftercare market has evolved as a response to the shift in demand.“It’s no longer about having just straight hair,” says Farouk VP of Shows and Education, Lisa Marie. “Clients want controlled volume and body. Keratin products are about providing your clients with the versatility to wear their curls naturally or blow dry them straight in a fraction of the time it formerly took, while making sure that the hair stays healthy and the treatment lasts.”

Specially Formulated

Many of the keratin treatment aftercare products contain small amounts of the protein complexes that are in the treatment itself, so with each wash-and-condition keratin is re-deposited into the hair, prolonging the smoothing effects. Products in the CHI Enviro Home Care Maintenance System are enriched with the same pearl and silk proteins found in the CHI Enviro Smoothing Treatment. In addition, the CHI products are formulated with a low pH to reduce frizz and add shine.

Brands such as Bio Ionic’s Agave, use sulfate- and sodium chloride-free technology in their aftercare products to extend the results of the treatment. We know that sulfates and salts have the ability to strip color and we are applying this same concept to making sure we’re not stripping the keratin from the hair,” explains Ian Murphy, senior VP of sales and marketing at Bio Ionic.

Empowering and Educating Your Clients

Because keratin is adhered to the cuticle of the hair with heat, the smoothing effects eventually wear off. “Working to maintain a keratin treatment is like protecting an investment,” says Fenice. If used regularly, at-home aftercare products allow clients to extend the life of their keratin treatments to their maximum potential. According to INOAR marketing and sales director, Fabiana Allegro, when the company asked two models to use two different sets of products following their smoothing treatments, the model who used the targeted aftercare products saw smoothing results for five months — twice as long as the other model’s results lasted.

For stylists hoping to establish a connection with keratin clientele, aftercare products provide a special opportunity as stylists teach the clients how to maintain their treated hair at home. “If a client goes home and doesn’t do anything special to maintain her hair, it’s like going to a doctor and then not filling your prescription,” says Farouk’s Lisa Marie. “Give clients the tools and the products they need to keep their hair in good shape after a treatment. Many stylists aren’t comfortable with selling products, but don’t think of it as retailing; it’s educating your clients and helping them to maintain their keratin treatment.”

In addition to products, tools also support the maintenance of a keratin treatment. Bio Ionic’s brushes, flat irons and blow dryers are infused with a blend of 32 minerals called a Nano Ionic Complex, which reconditions and rehydrates as hair is dried and styled.

Stylists can further educate clients about lifestyle hazards that can potentially shorten the lifespan of a keratin treatment. “Swimming can have the same effects on a keratin treatment that a harsh shampoo may have,” explains Allegro. “Salt water and chlorine can strip away the keratin, cutting the length of the treatment in half if extra measures are not taken to protect the hair.” Allegro suggests saturating the hair with tap water and slicking on a leave-in conditioner before swimming. This technique will allow the hair to absorb less of the harmful salt water or chlorine and protect the keratin treatment. Similarly, after working out, the client should cleanse the hair thoroughly of sweat and replenish moisture with a leave-in treatment.

New Benefits for Non-Keratin-Treated Hair

Hair is made up of about 90 percent keratin and 10 percent moisture, but environmental factors, heat straightening and color processing all can work to deplete hair’s naturally existing keratin. This is why stylists are discovering that even clients who have not had a heat-applied keratin treatment may find advantages to using keratin-infused cleansers, conditioners and styling products to reverse some of the effects of damage or simply to strengthen the hair. In some cases, these products can replace a blow-dry treatment.

CHI Keratin Mist is ideal for clients who want the benefits of protein to help strengthen the hair. The product adds strength, controls porosity and makes treated or untreated hair easier to detangle.

“Sometimes a ‘keratin treatment’ can simply be using the Simply Smooth Shampoo and Conditioner to give the client a dose of the smoothing properties of keratin,” says Doreen Guarneri, co-founder of American Culture. She suggests clients shampoo and condition with keratin products on only one side of the hair to see the difference. “Finer hair generally responds to softer smoothing treatments, while tighter, curlier textures really need the full in-salon professional keratin treatment,” she adds.

Rapidly Changing Category

Although keratin treatments are relatively new, the product offerings have already seen significant development and change, with the latest keratin retail offering an option to ensure that the treatment will last as long as possible. “Product delivery is the responsibility of the stylist, so it’s important that we stay informed,” says Robert Santana, platform artist for Matrix. With the right knowledge, tools and products to maintain your treatment, you are also addressing the long-term health of your hair.

“You can customize a keratin treatment to suit a client’s specific needs and wants,” says Guarneri. “It’s about finding the combination treatment and aftercare that works for your client’s needs and lifestyle.”

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