Posts Tagged ‘summer’

Easy Curly Hairstyles for Summer

by Alicia Ward on Tuesday, June 7th, 2011

We’ve checked in with veteran hairstylist Anna Craig to get the best curly hairstyles to welcome the summer. The big trend for summer 2011 is natural and loose—great for curlies! Summer curly hairstyles can look very glamorous and beautiful with little to no effort. Summer is the season of sitting poolside, lying on the beach and being outside more that usual—thus, you and your clients need some easy styles to rock this summer.

First, tell your clients to use shampoos, conditioners and hair styling products that contain sunscreens and nourishing agents to help protect their hair from the summer elements. Even better: offer these products at your salon!

Craig, a DevaCurl specialist, has more than nine years of experience and gives us the lowdown on the latest trends and how to achieve these effortless looks. Here is Craig’s list of some of the newest curly hair styles for the hottest months of the year.

messy hair

Keep it messy!

In fact, the messier the better. You want it to look natural and effortless. The look should be unkempt—loose pieces and curls and waves. Keep it very natural— help your client show off her beautiful curls, kinks and waves!

Side everything!

Help your clients rock their curls to the side. This summer, side ponies and side buns are in. These looks are very easy to achieve, plus they keep our curls off their necks—perfect for those hot summer months.

How to give your client the look:

1: Style her hair as usual. Make sure to apply lots of frizz control products to make this look last.

2: Pull her curls to the side—right behind their ear.

3: Smooth down her curls with your hand and loosely pull them into a ponytail. Don’t pull the hair tightly from the root. Instead, leave it slack and keep it loose.

4: When the ponytail looks right to you, pinch it tightly in place with one hand and then work the elastic band on your wrist over the curls, and secure it tightly so that the ponytail doesn’t flop.

We recommend you use a clear rubber band or one that matches your client’s hair color. Another alternative to a rubber band is the Goody Simple Styles Pony Pouf Hair Styling Clip. This is an easy way to get the messy bun look.

5: Optional: Pull some front and side pieces out to give the look a more glamorous appeal.

Braid

Braids!

Messy-braid those curls for a quick and easy summer look. The messy side-braid is an effortless, boho chic look for this summer.

How to give your client the look:

1: Spritz in some curl-enhancing spray and scrunch her hair to enhance her curls and reduce the frizz

2: Gather hair to one side and part in three sections

3: Braid hair loosely and secure it at the bottom

4: For a messy effect, pull out some strands and apply a texturizing product, like wax or pomade

5: Spray on a finishing hair spray and scrunch up hair again for extra volume

scarf

Silk-wrapped strands

Scarves are the perfect accessory for summer and a great way to protect your hair from the summer heat, which can dry hair out and cause frizz!. Slipping a colorful scarf around your curls is an easy way to glam up simple curly hairstyles this summer.

1: Fold a bright scarf several times until it’s about 3 inches wide. Twist the ends. Check out these beautiful Shimmer & Bliss scarves.

2: Push your client’s curls, kinks and waves back with your hands, then place the scarf 2 to 2.5 inches behind her hairline. Make sure the ends are an even length.

Tip: To prevent the scarf from slipping, tie it twice at your nape underneath your hair. First, knot it horizontally, then do it again, but this time pull each side of the scarf vertically. This will keep the knot tight and also make the ends lay down evenly.

Summer Hair Coloring Tips

by Antonio Gonzales on Monday, March 28th, 2011

antonio gonzales

I was born in Trinidad in the height of a hurricane. I spent my childhood surrounded by the sights and sounds and smells of Carnival and the other Indian, African and Spanish festivals of the Islands. Loving the amazing costumes, I got my start dressing my sisters and doing their hair and makeup. An opportunity came up to work with Trinidad’s leading costume designers, makeup artists and hair stylists. After I left the Island, my career evolved with work in Munich, Los Angeles and now New York City. Here in New York, I am a stylist at the Orlo Salon in the Meat Packing district. Vogue magazine recently named me as one of the rising hairstylist stars in New York, I was awarded the best haircut of 2008 by sheckys.com, Gotham Magazine called me a Shear Genius and Allure Magazine featured me as one of the Best Cuts 2009.

Today I’m addressing protecting colored curly hair clients. Be it a blonde, redhead or brunette, color fading and breakage are what’s in store for them in the months to come as our clients enjoy the hot summer sun.

Before your clients leave the salon, here are some valuable tips for them to help them prevent problems and address these challenges.

Color Fading

From this day forward, as clients sit in your chair, it’s crucial to explain to them how to protect their “investment” (their hair color). Educate them on the fact that they need to purchase new products as the seasons change. For the summer, recommend new shampoos, conditioners and treatments that contain UV protection from the ocean, pool and sun.

Before they enter the pool or ocean, suggest they apply a thick layer of conditioner to prevent over-saturation of salt and chlorine. When they exit the water, recommend they have a spray bottle of water at hand to help dilute the salt or chlorine. They should also follow up by adding a light misting of a leave-in conditioner.

Tanning booths are big culprits in hair color fading. Remind clients to cover their hair when at tanning salons.

Blondes

When working on my blondes, I have started doing cellophane glazes (colorshines) that contain no ammonia or peroxide. If it’s a blonde who can’t live without the effects of glosses (softening the root color), then follow your gloss with a glaze. In any case, a glaze will create a temporary barrier on the hair to prevent fading.

Because cellophanes come in clear, as well as different colors, you have the ability to not drift away from your desired color. For example, if I’m working on a blonde who does not want any warm tones, mix Clear and Pearl as your glaze. If she’s afraid of any cool tones then, mix Clear and Honey Golden Blond. The Clear is there to dilute any added color pigment and keeps you on track for your desired effect.

Brunettes

For your brunette clients with virgin hair, cellophanes are a great recommendation and I guarantee you they will love you for it! You can use Clear with a squirt of Red Brunette or Clear with a squirt of Honey Golden Blonde. The best part? It fades after 10 to 12 shampoos, which means they can enjoy a beach vacation with a peace of mind. Even for kids, the Clear will keep their beautiful curls intact and shiny.

Beach Waves, Keratin, and Curls…Oh My!

by Megan Dorcey on Tuesday, June 8th, 2010

The Pravana Beach Wave

It’s (finally) summer time and although we are all excited about the warming trends, there is something more important that needs our attention: the hair trends. With every season comes a little something different and with beach vacations, pool parties, and everything in between, one trend that is sticking this summer season is the beachy wave. You can catch it everywhere from a Derek Lam runway show to this year’s MTV movie awards. So how do you, as a stylist, cash in on this trend? Do your homework!

Classes all over the country are being offered on a regular basis to help tame the frizzies and promote beautiful waves. Two educational endeavors that will ensure your pocket book success: keratin treatments and the beach wave.

Although many curl pro’s are leery about the keratin treatments, they really are hitting the market hard and curls of all kind are demanding the frizz-reducing treatment. So many of us curlies are at wit’s end during the humid summer months and these treatments are a saving grace! There are many different options when choosing a treatment: Braziliante, Brazilian Blowout, De Fabulous, Global Keratin, La Brasiliana, and the list goes on. The point is, research the products and understand what they offer your potential client.

As for the beach wave, this is a new spin on the “perm” which gives those of the non-curly persuasion a better option when it comes to wash-and-wear hair styles. This treatment gives clients a sense of freedom from their blow driers and flat irons, and letting them fit right in with the summer beach feel that everyone strives to achieve. The company standing at the forefront of the beach wave craze is Pravana. They offer Q&A’s on their site as well as class schedules (they will be on the east coast this summer so check out their schedule to get the nearest class information).

Need more exposure? Tons of stylists are already gaining new curly clients through NaturallyCurly.com’s advertising program. With well over 500,000 visits to the site each month, it’s a great way to grab the attention of the curly community. They will post an ad on the salon reviews section in your state so all of the curlies can find you! Make sure your salon is listed for all to find.

Crystal Wright

I am constantly speaking with stylists across the country about what they are doing in their salons to gain more exposure. I would love to hear what you are doing! Have questions about a certain brand/treatment/trend? Go ahead and email me your questions and comments!

Now to leave you all with a few words of wisdom from stylist and beauty guru Crystal Wright about building your business and client base. I prodded Crystal for a few tips for the CurlStylist audience while at the Mizani Forum in Houston. Her advice is precious, so listen up!

MD What are some of the biggest mistakes you see stylists making today?

CW: They don’t know what they don’t know. What I mean is, sometimes stylists don’t realize that they are working in a vacuum with only the limited information they have in their heads about a subject. Whether it’s working behind the scenes, opening up a new salon, adding a new employee, or choosing the furniture for your salon environment, in order to do it right it’s important to read your trades, do your homework, and seek the advice of people who know more than you and who can help you get to the next level even if it costs a little money. Rest assured that I have been penny wise and pound foolish. I’ve learned that the right book, or paying the right person for 30 minutes of advice can save thousands of dollars and so much time. I learned to call someone up and say “Can I buy 20 minutes of your time”.

MD: What is one key piece of advice you can give to someone wanting to change their lives professionally and personally?

CW: Just one! Ahh shucks. Plan to work and work the plan. That’s the advice that my sales manager at Xerox gave me over 20 years ago and it still works. The only time I falter is when I don’t have a plan. A real plan. One that’s written down on paper with a date from which you can work backwards. That date becomes an appointment that you have to keep, and it makes you accountable to yourself.

MD: Can I have two?

CW: Stop trying to fix everything that isn’t working all at once. You don’t have to do everything all at once. When you identify the things that aren’t working (personally or professionally) in your life you don’t have to fix them all next month. Fix one thing every 30 days.

Frizz Fight

by Victoria Wurdinger on Tuesday, June 1st, 2010

Unlike the secretive rule behind the book and movie “Fight Club,” frizz fight is all the talk of salons. With summer humidity around the corner, conversations are heating up. But as clients get more educated about their curl, an emerging mini-trend is to go natural in summer and choose frizz-fighting treatments in winter, when blow drying is required if you don’t want to leave the house with wet hair.

“The key to going natural in summer is to keep the hair well moisturized on the inside; the weather keeps the outside moisturized,” says Irvine Russo, owner of Eclips in Mclean, VA .

For those who want to fight the frizz anytime, in-salon services are plentiful. The newest options stop short of the traditional approach—reduce frizz by killing curl—used by Japanese TR, which takes up to 8 hours, and “Brazilian” keratin services, which have suffered from lack of transparency about their use of various aldehydes. The holy grail is a long-lasting frizz controller that works in increments, uses no aldehydes and doesn’t break bonds—and it looks like it’s arrived.

In-Salon Treatment Options

Some frizz reducers rely on ammonium thioglycolate sans the expected perm rods. For instance, Rusk Anti Curl AntiFrizz, is a frizz remover and anti-humectant that does not remove natural curl. It takes 30 minutes in the salon. Create Ion’s demi-permanent, thio-based re-texturizing treatment, Texture Management, allows stylists to reduce texture by degree, smooth hair and fight frizz. It is intended to “maintain the positives of Japanese TR, while removing the negatives” (costly, time-consuming, hard to retouch). After about 6 weeks, it fades away. These services cannot be used on hair that’s been exposed to sodium hydroxide.

“Brazilian” treatments break no bonds and actually make trashed hair look better. In a twist on these, Rejuvenol Brazilian Keratin Treatment with Collagen uses Vanilin, and the company’s Pure Collagen is a unique protein-delivery, take-home treatment that helps smooth curly hair and fight frizz, while restoring condition. Watch for more of these, but be sure you ask what’s in them.

A number of newer treatments like BioIonic KeraSmooth Demi-Permanent Anti-Frizz use a mild perm solution, which is increasingly likely to be cysteamine—the main active in thio-free permanent waves, which cleaves inter-protein bonds. For those familiar with the perms, cysteamine usually must be rinsed for more than 5 minutes to avoid an unpleasant smell, and the hair cannot be shampooed for 48 hours. The newest cysteamine treatments can be used incrementally for anything from frizz reduction to total smoothing.

For instance, Russo uses Smooth and Healthy Protein Treatment from Surface. He says the hair must be “competent,” meaning it must have healthy, structural protein for the product to soften, and he likens the process to loosening or relaxing the spring in curl, then reinforcing the protein structure with more proteins. Basically, a protein cream is misted on before a smoothing cream is applied off-the-scalp in sections. Then the hair is smoothed, processed and rinsed before it is re-misted with protein cream and oxidized with a hydrogen peroxide locking lotion. By changing variables such as timing and potential blow drying or flat ironing, Smooth and Healthy allows customized options, from frizz reduction to smoothing.

According to the company, an amino acid complex softens the hair’s structural, protein and Amaranth protein binds to hair during the smoothing process. The smoothing cream contains ammonium hydroxide and cysteamine HCL. However, Surface’s president Wayne Grund says the protein cream provides a low pH with a heavy base, so that when the smoothing cream is applied over it, the cysteamine softens the structural protein, including the disulfide bond, without breaking it.

Caribbean Dream Relaxer (CDR) also uses cysteamine and is a “four in one” system that allows you to reduce frizz, tame hair, create softer wave or straighten, according to retexutrizing experts Homer and Dani Prefontaine, owners of Salon Prefontaine in Carsbad, CA.

“The differences are in how the product is applied; for the frizz killer, you mix all four ingredients together at once,” says Dani. “The treatment can take less than an hour and bring in $150 to $180. Also, I can use CDR on hair that has been exposed to a sodium relaxer or a thio-based product.”

Adds Homer, “About 75% of our curly haired clients choose a CDR service for one of the four ways it can retexturize hair, and many of them are men.”

Home School

Just as Brazilian keratin treatments require sulfate-free shampoos, many of the frizz fighters require their own ancillary maintenance products. Darlene Lodge, owner of Galleria in Waldorf, MD, who replaced her Brazilian system with Smooth & Healthy, says home use of the protein creme is a must. For clients who prefer it totally natural, diffuse drying goes a long way to eliminating frizz.

“It makes any wave pattern more consistent; the hair dries frizz-free because there is no finger-manipulation,” says Lodge. “Once the hair is dry, you can go back in and break it up.”

Any salon can offer anti-frizz systems, like bain de terre’s All About Curls Camelina Collection, which includes a shampoo, conditioner and defining crème, and reduces frizz by 50% while moisturizing natural-looking curls. Additional frizz-fighting tips:

  • • You can only air dry if you start with the right shampoo and conditioner for the hair type.
  • • Avoid towel-drying, which mats hair; squeeze out moisture instead. Or, use a T-shirt which doesn’t have the hair-grabbing nubs of a towel.
  • • The shorter the hair, the more likely it is to frizz. Longer hair is heavier, which can help pull out the frizz.
  • • Frizzy hair should rarely be cut with a razor; keep ends blunt so they stick together. If a razor is even slightly dull, it will make hair frizz more.
  • • Frizz can be a problem for any hair type, but naturally dry hair that lacks moisture tends to frizz the most. Because the cuticle is open, the moisture escapes.
  • • Don’t style naturally textured hair with a brush, unless you want to pull it straight. In that case, use a paddle brush. The more you brush through the hair as you dry it, the more it will separate and the frizzier it will get. Instead, use a wide-toothed comb, smooth in the product with your hands and style with your fingers.
  • • Once you’ve shaped curly or wavy hair, don’t touch it again. After it’s dry, you can work through pomade for shine or molding products to subdue texture or break it up.

Notes Russo, “There are two types of frizz. Once is from damaged ends, and those can be cut off. The other is ‘style frizz’ from overworking a style or too-dry hair. The more moisture you add, the heavier the hair is and the less big it will get. Get moisture into the cortex, and you’ll avoid frizz for good.”

Antonio’s View: Taming Your Tresses

by Antonio Gonzales on Monday, March 22nd, 2010

antonio gonzales

I was born in Trinidad in the height of a hurricane. I spent my childhood surrounded by the sights and sounds and smells of Carnival and the other Indian, African and Spanish festivals of the Islands. Loving the amazing costumes, I got my start dressing my sisters and doing their hair and makeup. An opportunity came up to work with Trinidad’s leading costume designers, makeup artists and hair stylists. After I left the Island, my career evolved with work in Munich, Los Angeles and now New York City. Here in New York, I am a stylist at the Orlo Salon in the Meat Packing district. Vogue magazine recently named me as one of the rising hairstylist stars in N.Y., I was awarded the best haircut of 2008 by shecky’s.com, Gotham Magazine called me a Shear Genius and Allure Magazine featured me as one of the best cuts 2009.

See Antonio’s blog here.

Curly hair in the summer can be difficult for some women and a challenge for most. Depending on where we live, our climates can be characterized by dry heat or being extremely humid. Generally, some of the obstacles we face include: dehydrated hair, frizzing and curls shrinking as opposed to being a bit looser as they are in the winter.

As hairstylists, we have our favorite products of all time that we use to address these issues and we love to share them with each other. I am happy to have the opportunity to share these products with you; products that have changed my life and that of my clients. Some of them are new and some are old, but no matter what, I expect they will add something to your station and make your life easier when dealing with curly tresses.

Renew by Orlando Pita (Dry Conditioner)

Working with Orlando Pita has changed the way I see, touch and think about hair. A big part of my training is understanding how products can affect hair in order to obtain the best results. This product has actually won awards for Orlando and T3, and here’s why. We’ve all heard about dry shampoos, but this dry conditioner can change hair that is a bit fly away and contains static to hair with far more control.

It truly is a miracle product! It’s conditioning with a unique blend of botanicals and Vitamins E, B6 and…the best part…no water is needed.

Plump (for all hair types)

Curly hair lacks two things—definition and moisture. Plump can give definition without being packed with alcohol and can also leave the hair feeling great. If you have a client with fine, color-treated curls and you don’t want to stress her/his hair, try adding this with one of your favorite curl creams to get the definition needed. It’s great to diffuse with as well and has heat protection.

Moroccan Oil Treatment (for all hair types)

On my many trips to Trinidad and Tobago, I always see my nieces running into the ocean and running out with dehydrated and tangled hair. On my recent trip, I lined up the girls (like a crazy person) and one by one I added a quarter-size dab of this product to their dry hair from roots to ends.

The smell is to die for and the result as they returned from the water was nothing short of a miracle. As the hair dries, the combination between the salt water and Moroccan Oil left the hair feeling fantastic!

Kérastase Gelee Aqua Proof (ultimate sun protection)

Kérastase has created a wetsuit for the hair and it really works. Have your clients use it as a styling gel before hitting the beach or lying out. They can wear their hair curly or slicked into a bun. One thing’s for sure; they will maintain the curl and the best protection from the sun and salt. It will also protect the hair from further dehydration and loss of color.

Kérastase Soleil Voile Protecteur (leave-in spray)

I love this product!

It’s one of the best styling products for my own hair. Being Ethiopian and Portuguese, my hair is different on the top and sides. My hair is also fine, but I have a lot of it. This product is great for clients who like to air dry their hair. I recommend spraying it into your hand and applying it to the client’s hair while molding it into the shape you want.

The result is hair that dries well and the client can feel free to run their fingers through it after it is completely dry. I also add a little of the next product in the lineup on thicker hair.

Kérastase Crème UV Défense Active (rinse off conditioner)

I use this product on my own curly hair in the height of summer and the results are flawless. Although it’s a rinse-off conditioner, I leave it in as a styling product. Amazingly, it does not build up like some other products. In the spring, I mix it with the previous product to weaken it a bit.

Naturina Rejuvenating Pure Oils

I am always looking for one product to share that can achieve the job of many. This is especially true during these times when there are several products on the market to choose from. About four months ago (at least), I came across a product that seemed interesting. That product is Longevity Rejuvenating Oil by Naturina.

It’s a multi-purpose, pure oil that will be an incredible asset to your daily routine in the salon. I recommend adding a little to hair color for clients with sensitive scalps. It’s amazing for thick, frizzy hair in the sun because of its conditioning effects and its UV protection. You can add a little to your favorite hair mask as well. I also use it. Simply add a few drops to your styling products and dry as usual. If air-drying, use less.

I look forward to hearing your feedback and of any recommendations of your own.

I wish you a great day in the salon.

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