What’s the Difference Between a Gloss and a Glaze?

by Antonio Gonzales on Monday, December 13th, 2010

I was born in Trinidad in the height of a hurricane. I spent my childhood surrounded by the sights and sounds and smells of Carnival and the other Indian, African and Spanish festivals of the Islands. Loving the amazing costumes, I got my start dressing my sisters and doing their hair and makeup. An opportunity came up to work with Trinidad’s leading costume designers, makeup artists and hair stylists. After I left the Island, my career evolved with work in Munich, Los Angeles and now New York City. Here in New York, I am a stylist at the Orlo Salon in the Meat Packing district. Vogue magazine recently named me as one of the rising hairstylist stars in N.Y., I was awarded the best haircut of 2008 by shecky’s.com, Gotham Magazine called me a Shear Genius and Allure Magazine featured me as one of the best cuts 2009.

What’s the difference between a gloss and a glaze? Over the years I’ve heard these terms used interchangeably (often from my own clients), and I’m here to set the record straight. After some extensive online research and reading many articles from fellow New York stylists (including NYC Colorist Marie Leppard and my coworkers at the Orlo salon), I feel confident to speak intelligently on the matter. I want to bring you a point of view that, although personal, makes sense in my eyes. I hope this helps you to answer your own clients’ concerns on the matter.

Hair Glaze

What comes to mind when I hear the word “glaze” is a shiny, delicate surface, like that of a glazed cake—a temporary coating.

After my research, I was happy to know that we stylists all can agree that a glaze is a temporary, clear substance that adds great shine to either virgin or color-treated hair. We also agree that glazes have pigment added to boost any matching hair color: blond or brunette. Whether it’s a clear glaze (with no color pigment) or a colored glaze, all certainly add a safe, translucent coating to the hair shaft that washes off in eight to 12 shampoos. Glazes contain no ammonia or peroxide, which means they do not have the ability to lift your natural color or to aggressively open the cuticle to deposit color. This kind of product gently lays on the surface of the hair rather, adding a complementary tone. Also, glazes will not fully cover gray hair (not even a few strands). However, on a client who’s just slightly gray, it can add overall shine and a hint of tone while possibly staining those few strands.

One of my favorite glazes is Sebastian Colourshines by Cellophanes. I have been using this product for more than 16 years, from my time in Trinidad, to Los Angeles and now in New York, and I still love the results. This temporary gel-like substance comes in clear and also a variety of colors that can complement any brunette or blond. Keep in mind that there are other glazes on the market for you to sample, but this is again by far my favorite; I’ve yet to be disappointed by this glaze. The easiest way for me to describe the coverage of this product is by recommending that you experiment: Get a piece of colored cellophane paper. Place it over several surfaces of varying colors. If the paper you choose is red (for example), then all the surfaces you have covered with the cellophane look the same in depth or lightness, though now just have a red translucent tone. The idea is that the glaze cannot actually change the depth and existing color pigment, but does add a translucent tone.

The best way to choose the right color for your client is by taking a white paper towel and smearing your desired color on it. This way, you get a good idea of the color and underlying pigment. It is important to keep in mind the desired effect, so keep the “color tone” relative to the client’s existing hair color. In other words, if it’s a copper red, do not use a blue-base red. It’s great on brunettes who are losing their sparkle, if you think there’s too much pigment and you are fearful of it going too dark, then what you should do is add clear. This will help dilute the pigment, giving less coverage. This product is also amazing for blonds: For a head of fair hair that’s too gold, add a mixture of pearl blonde and clear. Or for the blond who’s too ashy, the honey blond mixed with clear works wonders!

To use on virgin hair, I first shampoo the hair with a clarifying shampoo to remove all product residue. I then towel-dry thoroughly and apply from roots to ends. Apply a plastic cap and sit under heat for 20 minutes. Afterward, allow to cool for five minutes and rinse well. Use an old-school hooded dryer (the heat and strong flow of air from these works better), rather than a Rollerball or a Climazone. But careful: do not shampoo. Rinse well (seven to 10 minutes) and condition only. If applying a colored glaze, apply protective cream to the hairline and wear gloves. Comb the glaze on the hairline, avoiding the client’s scalp. This way you get an even application without staining her scalp, and trust me when I say this baby stains!

For virgin hair in need of shine that’s sensitive to chemicals (or for the client who’s sensitive to the slightest tonal change in their hair), I highly recommend using a glaze. As we know it fades naturally from the hair without a line of demarcation. Do not take any chances with the lowest-volume peroxide in a gloss. It’s better to be safe than sorry!

If your client’s hair is damaged and you have a choice between either a gloss or a glaze, I highly recommend a glaze. Even the lowest-volume peroxide can make a bad situation worse.

Hair Gloss

When I think of a gloss, I think of car paint or nail polish: something stronger and longer-lasting.

A hair gloss is the stronger of the two. It contains peroxide and has the ability to budge the cuticle, depositing longer-lasting color. If used with heat on virgin hair, some glosses will give lift to the hair, changing the tone by perhaps a shade (I’ve seen this happen several times with my own eyes). When used on color-treated blond or brunette hair, it will add shine and enhance the existing tones in the hair, which can be a lifesaver a month or so after coloring the client’s hair. As you already know, glosses can be clear or come in a variety of shades (more so than do glazes), and can last up to four weeks. They can be applied to dry or towel-dried hair, and as previously mentioned, can be used with or without heat (Color Touch by Wella is a good example of this capability).

One of my very favorite glosses is Diacolor by L’Oréal, which can make a blond sparkle a month after getting the color done, while controlling warmth in the base. Unlike many glosses on the market that leave warm tones on the hair, this product will keep a brunette on tone, be it warm or cool. It comes in many shades, allowing you to create any desired hue. Keep in mind that I do use a lot of glosses in my everyday work, but I try to keep it as healthy as possible. So instead of the fast five minutes at the sink with a gloss, take 20 minutes with a glaze to achieve a shine that’s “to dye for”!

Remember that glosses can be a girl’s best friend (especially for blending gray hair), but should be used only when necessary, on hair that really needs it. Glazes, on the other hand, can make a world of difference on virgin hair, and are a great way to introduce your more inexperienced clients to hair color.

I wish you shine, shine, shine this holiday season!

Ron King: Try a Gloss or a Glaze

by The Style King/Ron King on Monday, June 14th, 2010

Ron King has worked as a hairstylist, transforming people’s appearances, for more than 20 years. With a growing celebrity clientele, King travels the world taking inspiration from different cultures and countries. Along the way, he has developed his own “easy wear” style philosophy which plays up a woman’s natural hair texture and pairs it with natural-looking makeup that’s easy to apply. This mantra led him to launch a signature line of cosmetics for women who want to look pulled together but who are are short on time. King has worked with some of the most respected names in the industry, including L’Oreal Professional, Ted Gibson, Eva Scrivo and Rick Wellman.

When your clients’ hair is in need of some high-wattage shine and softness, consider a hair glossing treatment or perhaps a glaze. Though both add sheen and smooth the hair and the terms are sometimes used interchangeably, there is a difference between the two. A gloss is in fact more permanent than a glaze, since it actually penetrates the hair’s cuticle, and doesn’t just add shine to the hair but can also adjust its tone, making color less brassy for example. A glaze, meanwhile, just coats the shaft, giving it subtle shine and semi-permanent color for a mere two weeks. If your client just wants to add some shininess to her hair, try a clear gloss or glaze. If they’re trying to bring out more color or call attention to highlights, use a glaze or gloss with color. Both make colored or highlighted locks last longer, can help with the dull effect of unhealthy hair, and cover the hair shaft, thereby protecting the hair.

Although both treatments can be done at home by your client, it is highly advisable to have her stylist do it at your salon. Gloss can be applied to dry or recently washed hair depending and the gloss should be left on hair for approximately five minutes or fifteen, and then rinsed off, depending on the glossing treatment you use. A good tip to ensure the gloss takes is to blast hair with a blow dryer before washing it off. The gloss should last from two to four weeks. For clients who are allergic to most hair products, recommend they try a natural glaze made of products like honey, eggs, or milk which can also give hair a nice shine. Honey, in particular, is effective. Simply dilute it in water and pour on the hair. Advise them not to rinse it off.

Helping Your Clients Shine

by Staff on Wednesday, April 29th, 2009

If your client seeks shiny hair, help her choose her color wisely because using the right shade can factor into the shine equation. Austin stylist Ethan Shaw says, “Instead of using colors that tend to make your hair look flat, use warmer colors. Semi-permanent color will also make hair look shinier than permanent colors, which can be more drying and damaging.”

Seize the Shine Factor

by admin on Tuesday, March 24th, 2009

It seems like everyone is searching for shine for their locks.

Almost every curly has struggled to unearth the elusive shine that our slick-straight counterparts seem to have with no effort at all. Yes, a closed cuticle is more reflective of light, but stylists say you don’t have to steamroll your spirals to get a gorgeous glow. Try these simple shine strategies for luminous locks.

Follow a hair-healthy regimen

If your textured tresses are exceptionally dull, the most likely culprits are heat-styling tools that not only damage the hair, but also strip its natural luster. Solution? Feed your starving curls, already.

“The healthier the hair, the more it’s going to shine,” says stylist Mia Fanali of D. Sabrina Salon in Westport. Conn. “Use a deep conditioning treatment once a week and a daily UV-protecting, leave-in conditioner.” (Fanali recommends Curlisto’s Deep Therapy Masque and Inestra’s Aestelance Balm leave-in conditioner.)

“A UV-protecting product screens out the sun’s rays, so you’ll have less damage on the outer layer of the hair shaft that takes the most abuse and is the first area to lose the shine,” Fanali says. “Always apply the UV protector first, then you can use your gel to style your hair. ”

Excessive shampooing also strips the life — and shine — right out of your hair, experts say.

“It is very important not to shampoo too often because the natural oils from your scalp will be one of the best shine products you can have,” says stylist Ethan Shaw of Anne Kelso Salon in Austin, Texas.

Even if you’re active in the gym or outdoors, working up a sweat is actually a good thing for your thirsty curls.

“It’s not dirt! Distribute those oils through your hair,” says Stanley of New York’s Christopher Stanley Salon, who suggests gently brushing the hair (depending on your curly texture) to spread the natural oils around. “Don’t get rid of that natural shine material that you are making yourself.”

Go for the gloss

Stylists recommend adding a clear gloss every four to six weeks for a shine boost, whether or not you color or highlight your hair.

“I use a gloss on a lot of my curly clients who don’t have any gray and don’t really want to change their color, but they want shine.” Fanali says. “Redken Shades EQ makes a clear gloss, which is conditioning and adds a lot of shine. I also add in a gloss as part of the permanent color service.”

The demi-permanent glosses are offered in various shades, in addition to the clear product.

“The clear gloss will close the cuticle of the hair to prevent frizz and add a lot of shine,” adds Stanley, who also recommends Redken Shades EQ. “I’ve found it’s the longest-lasting gloss that produces the most shine and will not hurt the hair at all. But you don’t have to use a salon product. You can find semi-permanent gloss products in that famous CVS (drugstore) aisle. If you color your hair, it’s good to add a gloss in between your color services.”

Meanwhile, Shaw advises curlies to choose their color wisely because using the right shade can factor into the shine equation.

“Instead of using colors that tend to make your hair look flat, use warmer colors,” Shaw says. “Semi-permanent color will also make your hair look shinier than permanent colors, which can be more drying and damaging.”

If you must, spray it on

When your to-do list feels like a mile long (and a trip to the salon is not on it!), stylists say shine sprays and serums will work in a pinch for thick, textured tresses.

“If you don’t have any time, adding shine to your hair is a tough thing, especially for coarse curly hair,” Stanley says. “I like ECRU’s Silk Nectar Serum, but it’s a silicone so you have to use it in small amounts or your hair will end up looking like a greasy mess.”

Stanley suggests adding only a few tiny drops to individual curls — starting at least three inches from the scalp — after applying your usual style products.

“Keep in mind, you don’t want to use a heavy-duty shine product on fine curly hair because it will weigh the hair down,” Stanley warns.

If you choose to use a shine spray, Fanali suggests Curlisto Glow & Shine spray and Shaw recommends Bumble & Bumble Shine Spray.

“Keep in mind, most of the shine products are going to be silicone-based, and it is what it is,” Shaw says. “If you have really damaged curly hair, you can also use Bumble and Bumble Straight as your styling product, which has different silicones, and you can scrunch it in. It will make the hair look shiny, but it’s really just putting a Band-aid on the hair.”

Shaw says a healthier approach to creating shine is to create your own concoction.

“Go to your local health food store, buy a small bottle of olive oil and a small bottle of vegetable glycerin,” he explains. “In a food processor, emulsify them (using a 50-50 mix) and pour it into a small spray bottle. Shake it vigorously and lightly mist it on (staying away from the scalp), when your hair is dry. It will add shine and it helps damaged hair.”

If you prefer a soothing scent, simply add a few drops of your favorite essential oil and you’re done!

Again, this remedy works best for curlies with thick hair. If your hair is thin and fine, stylists say you’re much better off heading to your salon for a clear demi-permanent gloss.

“If you want something that’s not going to be adding a bunch of silicone, it’s a really effective way to create shine — and be good to your hair,” says Shaw.