Posts Tagged ‘Retexturizing’

Retexturizing Straight Strands

by CurlStylist on Wednesday, February 1st, 2012

Allen Ruiz demonstrates how to get bombshell texture from perfectly straight hair so even your straight-tressed friends can experience the texture revolution!

1. Part hair down the center using a rattail comb. Saturate hair with volumizing spray and divide into 1-inch to 1 ½-inch sections.

2. Apply a holding gel to each section and twist around finger to create a cylindrical coil. Continue up the back of the head in a brick-lay pattern.

3. Blow dry while scrunching the hair upwards, using fingers as a diffuser. Continue to squeeze hair as it cools.

4. Use a ¾-inch clipless curling iron to give more shape to random pieces. Leave out ends for a more modern look.

5. Finish the look by breaking up curls gently with fingers for added softness and volume. Spray with hairspray for hold.

Texture: Not Your Mother’s Perm

by Michelle Breyer on Wednesday, September 1st, 2010


Learn more about Texture!, a collaboration between CurlStylist, NaturallyCurly and Modern Salon

According to Darby Shields, associate artistic director for ISO, are two 4-letter words in hairdressing: bangs and perms.

When it comes to perms “We now say ‘body’ or ‘movement’ or ‘texture’,” says Shields.

Old Perm

Whatever you choose to call them—texturizers, waves or perms—the technology has come a long way. Unlike the poodle perms of the past, today’s perms have the ability to deliver sexy, fashion-forward texture without sacrificing the health of your hair. They are definitely not our mothers’ perms.

Demand is on the rise as texture—from beachy waves to curls—has become increasingly fashionable.

The whole process has changed dramatically from the day of strong chemicals, perm rods and end papers.

In 1938, Arnold F. Willatt invented the cold wave, the precursor to the modern perm. It used no machines and no heat. The hair was wrapped on rods and a reduction lotion containing ammonium thioglycolate was applied. This chemical breaks open the disulfide linkages between the polypeptide bonds in the keratin (the protein structure) in the hair. The disulfide bonds give hair its elasticity, and can be reformed with chemicals. Next, an oxidation lotion was applied, (hydrogen peroxide), to close the disulfide bridges again and the hair was reformed to the shape of the rod. The entire process took 6–8 hours at room temperature. These treatments evolved into perms using ammonium thioglycolate, and then sodium thioglycolate, which cut processing time.

ISO Option

The new generation of perms are much gentler, with lower pH and low ammonia, giving the stylist more control over the outcome. ISO’s Option Wave, for example, is an award-winning professional perm system completely free of thio, the activator found in many traditional perms. It uses ISOamine, an exclusive technology that allows for deeper and more even penetration into the hair’s cortex with minimal swelling of the cuticle. Minimal swelling means hair’s internal and external structures and condition are maintained.

And the application also has changed dramatically from the day of perm rods and end papers. Today’s tools are flexible and soft, or no tools at all are used.

“You can make pin curls and process that, if you want,” Sheilds says. “You can do just about anything you want.”

Steve Goddard was working at Redken in 1994—“the day perms died.” He recalls working with chemists to come up with a new type of permanent rave. While talking to a focus group of 12 young stylists, he asked them for feedback on names and positioning.

“I started the presentation and notice that they’re all looking at me like I stepped off the moon,” says Goddard, president and founder of Pravana Naturceuticals.

“They all said ‘We don’t do perms,’”Goddard recalled.

Goddard asked, “None of you do perms?”

“None of us do perms,” they replied.

“Absolutely none?” he asked.

“We don’t do them and we don’t want to do them,” the stylists replied.

For the next 14 years, stick straight hair was the trend. But two years ago, he started to notice celebrities wearing soft waves. Goddard started looking and listening, and realized this trend was different than the perm trend that had caught fire in the 1980s. These waves were longer and less defined—beachier.

Beach Wave

Goddard decided to create a product that could give women this beachy look—the Pravana Beach Wave. With that mission in mind, he realized he would have to create a formula different than the alkaline waves, which create a firmer, crisper curl than he wanted for this look An acid wave would provide the softness, but wouldn’t be firm enough for longer hair.

“We would lose the wave because of the weight,” he says. “We realized we needed to come up with a hybrid in terms of a wave solution. We developed a wave that uses amino acid technology to replace thio, giving the firmness of a wave without the crispness and definition.”

Old Perm

In addition to the actual solution, Goddard wanted to create an easy-to-use way to wrap the hair that wouldn’t leave marks The answer was to use wave blocks. Rather than the 70 to 80 rods used for a traditional perm, a stylist can use as few as 18 wave blocks to wrap up the head in a matter of 10 minutes.

“There is so much variety now, and that carries over to the textural spectrum,” Goddard says. “It’s not just about different cuts today. It’s about different textures. It’s our job to find out what people are doing and what they want, and then come up with a way for them to do it easily.”

In 1938, Arnold F. Willatt invented the cold wave, the precursor to the modern perm. It used no machines and no heat. The hair was wrapped on rods and a reduction lotion containing ammonium thioglycolate was applied. This chemical breaks open the disulfide linkages between the polypeptide bonds in the keratin (the protein structure) in the hair. The disulfide bonds give hair its elasticity, and can be reformed with chemicals. Next, an oxidation lotion was applied, (hydrogen peroxide), to close the disulfide bridges again and the hair was reformed to the shape of the rod. The entire process took 6–8 hours at room temperature. These evolved into perms using ammonium thioglycolate, and then sodium thioglycolate.

But stylists still have some image hurdles to overcome to get the word out about this new generation of perms.

“People do come in for perms, but they don’t want to say it,” Shields says. “They may bring in a picture of Taylor Swift or Kate Hudson, and I tell them I can make their hair look like that chemically.”

Product Shot

Shields also having some examples by your chair of the results that can be achieved with texturizers. She suggests wrapping hair pieces with different tools and have them hanging around your station to show the different types of waves and curls you can create.

“It’s a huge opportunity,”says Shields. “Judging from the way people are asking for texture on both coasts, I’m sure it will permeate the rest of the country in short order. To be on the leading edge of that can be a huge advantage. You can really build your business if you become known for this new generation of retexturizers.”

The chemicals being used also are much different, with less ammonia and lower pHs. ISO’s Option Wave, for example, This award-winning professional perm system completely free of thio, the activator found in many traditional perms, and also Damage-free, low ammonia formulation. It uses ISOamine™, an exclusive technology that allows for deeper and more even penetration into the hair’s cortex with minimal swelling of the cuticle. Minimal swelling means hair’s internal and external structures and condition are maintained.

And the application also has changed dramatically from the day of perm rods and end papers. Today’s tools are flexible and soft or no tools.

“You can make pin curls and process that, if you want,” Sheilds says. “You can do just about anything you want.”

A Perm Primer

Root Perm

A savior for those with short, flat hair—the root perm helps add volume at the root of the hair to give lots of body. It’s also perfect for already permed hair that’s looking for a little pick-me-up. Because only the roots are treated, it saves the rest of the lady’s locks from another treatment.

Body Wave Perm

Creating big, bouncy curls as opposed to tight, spring curls – the body wave perm is for curl-lovers who want a more modern curly look. The goal is to inject body and a little curl without adding a ton of ‘poof’ to the hair. Because this perm uses larger perm rods than traditional perms, the length of your client’s hair will determine how curly it will be: the shorter, the curlier.

Weave Perm

Because you’re curling only partial sections of the hair, the weave perm will give your client a fabulous, fusion look with both textured and straight pieces in her hair. She’ll be treated with great versatility by choosing how much of her hair is treated for this modern look.

Stack Perm

Finally a solution for women without layers, the stack perm is made for women who have a one-length cut. The treatment creates soft, layered curls for a natural look and is achieved by the use of differently sized rollers to the middle and bottom sections of the hair. The top is typically left flat to create a more a more natural look.

Acid Perm

While it sounds harsh, the acid perm is actually gentler than the traditional alkaline perm as it has a lower pH level. It is specifically made for those with sensitive, fragile, or damaged hair. This perm will still create beautiful curls without as much damage to the hair follicle.

Exothermic Perm

Referring to the gentle, internal heat that is characteristic of this treatment, the exothermic perm helps speed up the processing time. The heat helps to allow the lotion to absorb quickly into the hair, conditioning and strengthening the cuticle from the inside. Your client will walk out with beautiful, bouncy curls from this innovative treatment.

Making Waves

by Rachel Peters on Monday, November 2nd, 2009

New trends are like waves. From the newsstands and gossip blogs, trends barrel down to us, knocking us to our feet and leaving us scrambling to discover how they are created. Our clients come to us asking for the new look and we do our best, secretly thinking to ourselves, “There’s got to be a better, easier way to do this.” The trend evolves and each new style of it is more interesting and intricate than the next. We study the red carpets and buy the latest styling tools to try to catch up with the wave. And as it ebbs back, giving us time to take the class or practice the technique, we notice just ahead in the distance another wave is swelling, this one more innovative and beyond our scope than the last.

This series is dedicated to keeping you, the stylist, up to date on the latest trends and techniques. We want to make it easy to acquire, share, and critique. We’ll provide you with the tools and give the links to classes and tutorials, making it easy for you to be in the loop.

New Trend: Soft, beachy waves without the damage or commitment

ISO Nexture

Think of Nexture as a temporary perm. It adds soft, beachy waves to the hair and lasts about twenty shampoos. It infuses sodium bonds into the hair shaft, swelling it to create more bounce. Unlike traditional perms, it does not alter existing bonds in the hair nor does it rely on harsh chemicals to create a curl pattern. Nexture is recommended for clients with fine, limp hair — 1s and 2s. See’s hair types.

ISO’s texture expert, Francie Sorem, sat down with CurlStylist to talk about Nexture. Her recommendations? Wrap hair in large magnetic rollers, fasten with standard metal clips, and apply Nexture as you would any perm. Avoid using Nexture on hair that is overly processed or damaged. ISO does make a Nexture treatment for color-treated hair, but it should only be used on hair that has been lifted with high lift color, not overly bleached or processed. Sorem says Nexture is an easy service to recommend to a client wanting wavy hair without the damage or commitment. Daily heat styling with irons or rollers can cause long-term damage, and traditional thio perms wreck the hair’s integrity. Nexture gives the curl without ruining the hair. Average cost: $200

ISO Manetamer

For clients with more curl, ISO created Manetamer, a gentle straightener containing no thio. It relaxes the hair by adding protein. Just comb in the straightening solution followed by the neutralizer. It takes about 15 minutes and makes a great add-on service in the salon. Both Manetamer and Nexture can be found online or in professional beauty supply houses.

Ouidad’s Softening System

Famous for her work with curly hair, Ouidad has once again created a solution for clients looking to manage tightly wound curls without straightening or damaging hair. The softening system loosens curl patterns and re-forms curls without using chemicals. It uses about half the processing ingredients as other straightening systems and lasts about 3-4 months. Ouidad recommends using the treatment all over or as a “spot softener,” evening out a client’s curl pattern.

An Early Look at “Good Hair”

by Staff on Monday, October 12th, 2009

A scene from “Good Hair”.

Chris Rock’s much-anticipated documentary about the complex relationship between black women and their hair had a limited-release opening Friday, so while we wait for the nationwide release, we’ll offer you a few snippets from CurlTalkers (NaturallyCurly’s chat boards) and national reviewers. We’ll have a full review shortly after the movie opens nationwide on October 23.

CurlTalker KsLiZCuRlZ: “I am 14 and have natural hair. I think the movie didn’t promote relaxers at all. It actually made fun of it in a way. Everything it said is true. Relaxers do burn hair and scalp, black girls do get weaves, black girls are afraid of getting their hair wet.and OMG DONT TOUCH A BLACK GIRLS HAIR. Its not true with all, but you just don’t take the chance. He made it clear that he thought what he heard was ridiculous. I laughed a lot and sometimes me and my friends took a serious note. At the end we walked out saying ” I will never get a relaxer or weave” All because of what we saw. I LOVED IT.”

CurlTalker Curlygoddess: “It is a definite must see even though most of us already know the facts. I think it will open the eyes of rest of America as well as create open dialogue about the topic to make a lot of black women think about the things they do to their hair and why they do them.”

The New York Times film critic Jeanette Catsoulis: “Though “Good Hair” embraces the pain, digging gingerly into wounds both political and personal, the film feels more like a celebration than a lament. Spirited, probing and frequently hilarious, it coasts on the fearless charm of its front man and the eye-opening candor of its interviewees, most of them women — including the actress Nia Long and the hip-hop stars Salt-n-Pepa — and all of them ready to dish.

“In fact, one of the happy consequences of “Good Hair” should be a radical increase in white-woman empathy for their black sisters. Whether in thrall to “creamy crack,” a scary, aluminum-dissolving chemical otherwise known as relaxer (what it’s really relaxing, observes Mr. Rock astutely, is white people), or the staggeringly expensive and time-consuming weave (often available on layaway plan), the women in the film bare heads and hearts with humor and without complaint.

Los Angeles Times film critic Betsy Sharkey: “The documentary “Good Hair” (is) an amusing, poignant and surprisingly candid look at the topic with a disarming Rock coaxing answers and opinions from an eclectic cross section of African Americans, including Maya Angelou, Al Sharpton, actresses, models, stylists and everyday patrons of barber shops and beauty parlors around the country.

“The documentary uses comparison rather than condemnation to make its key points. ….Rock interviews a scientist analyzing the ingredients found in typical straightening products. The demonstration shows they can eat through a soda can in a few hours. That’s followed by conversations with girls as young as 5 having their hair straightened. No, they don’t like the process, but they love the result. We can connect the dots.”

The Associated Press film critic Jesse Washington: “Chris Rock sheds new light on this old story through a poignant mix of interviews, investigation and his trademark satire.
“Rock is the perfect “Good Hair” host. His ad-libbed quips and silly-serious questions put interview subjects and viewers at ease with this sometimes painful reality, keeping them laughing instead of crying. And when Rock ventures into a hair store trying to sell some kinky “black hair” to the Asian owner, his comedy cuts to the root of the issue in a way Ken Burns never could. ‘Everyone want straight hair,’ the owner says. ‘It look more natural.’ “

Texture Tips: A Transitioning Kit

by Mahisha Dellinger on Thursday, October 8th, 2009

According to “Happi” magazine, almost 10 million Hispanic, Asian and African American women have used hair relaxers to remove their natural curl/wave pattern. During the last 5-10 years, ethnic curlies have begun to embrace their natural textures, and the trend toward natural styles have resulted in lower sales in relaxers.

Are you currently servicing clients that are transitioning from relaxed to natural or on the cusp of taking that leap of “curly girl faith?” The good news is there are far more resources and quality hair care lines available today to aide you and your clients in their quest for curl freedom.

Where Do We Begin?

PRODUCT RECOMMENDATION: Curl Souffle is perfect for transitioners. It helps “bridge the gap” between natural and relaxed hair and smooths new growth

Your clients have a few choices. You can recommend that they a. grow out the perm (which takes time and patience), b. do the big chop — cut off all of the chemicals, or c. cut half of it off and get regular trims (~ 3-4″) every 3 months to speed up the process. Unfortunately, there isn’t a quick fix for this situation…you will have to do what is right for your client.

Very important note: The point at which your natural and your relaxed hair meet is THE most vulnerable…therefore is more likely to break if not properly handled and taken care of. You want to keep their hair well-conditioned and hydrated to ensure a smooth transition.

CURLS offers a “Transitioning Diva” kit that has all of the products needed to get you through this transition.

Here are a few tips to help your clients get through their transitioning time.

    CURL Ecstasy Hair Tea conditioner

  1. You definitely want to recommend that they get a deep treatment with heat WEEKLY for the next few months. CURL Ecstasy Hair Tea conditioner will transform dry, chemically damaged, over stressed tresses within minutes! This magical Asian tea formulation combines natural botanicals and vitamin packed extracts with rich, exotic emollients to moisturize, condition, strengthen and protect delicate locks.
  2. Recommend that they invest in the Hair Therapy Wrap, available on our website (and a few plastic caps) so they can also do at-home deep treatments.
  3. Reduce the amount of times per month you heat process their hair. If you currently are doing so 3x a month, cut back to 2x a month with a goal of 1x a month MAX! This will ensure the health and integrity of their hair.
  4. Make sure you give them regular trims…starting off with an inch or two is a great idea!

Encourage Your Clients to Join the Grow-Out Challenge

by Gretchen Heber on Monday, October 5th, 2009

Some of your clients may be struggling with the decision to grow out their relaxers and embrace their natural texture. Or they may be part way through the process.

While you can provide the professional tips and advice they need during this challenging process, you might also want to suggest your clients check out NaturallyCurly’s just-launched Miss Jessie’s Grow-Out Challenge.

We invite your clients to come along on this exciting six-month adventure of natural hair. They can share their ups and downs as they transition from relaxed to natural with scores of other NaturallyCurly members. They’ll laugh and cry as they discover, bit by bit, the joy of embracing their natural textures. The journey can be daunting, but with the love and support of you and your clients’ curly sisters, it will be exhilarating and liberating.

Whatever stage your clients are in in their transitioning — thinking about it, just beginning, well into it or fully natural — we welcome their participation.

Titi Branch of Miss Jessie’s offers these tips for stylists working with transitioning clients:

Stylists that are working with transitioning clients for the first time must realize the frustration that this client is experiencing. The frustration lies in the fact that the client is dealing with 2 distinctly different textures of hair on one head. The roots are tight and/or curly and the relaxed ends are straight. Up to the point of doing the big chop, the goal for that client is to do everything in their power to make these two distinctively different textures appear similar. So here are some tips:

  • Do be patient with this client and realize the frustration that they are experiencing. They are coming to you for solutions . Probably the number #1 concern of this client is wondering if their hairstyle will last. For some, the styling may last; for others, you need to explain what the expectations can be.
  • In offering a solution there are a few things that you may want to consider.

    1. Is length an issue? If it is this is a client that may be more willing to deal with having two disparate textures rather than cutting all of the relaxed ends off before there is enough natural texture.

    2. Is this someone with an active lifestyle? Works out a lot? This is a client that may experience more benefit from doing the big chop than having to style two textures constantly.

    3. Breakage is an issue. As a stylist you must understand the importance of deep conditioning treatments like Miss Jessie’s Rapid Recovery and moisturizers like Baby or Curly Buttercreme. If breakage is so severe then cutting the hair may be the only option.

    4. For someone going natural for the first time, they are seeing their hair in a state that they may have not seen in decades or as long as they have been relaxing their hair. Do realize that this client is going to be really reliant upon you to offer suggestions and solutions as their styling time will now be increased at home.

    5. A loyal client. Once you have successfully helped someone transition, she is a client for life!!

Get started today.

Pravana Expert
Offers Perm Tips

by Staff on Friday, May 15th, 2009

Danny McKillop

Pravana’s hair color guru, Danny McKillop, offers these tips for creating a body wave using the company’s Keratin Fusion.

Always use an end wrap when using Velcro rollers with chemicals. This prevents potential “crinkled” ends. Hair must be wrapped with mild tension around the roller at least 1½ revolutions to take the shape of the roller. Test for proper processing by unwrapping the roller in the same manner that you would with a perm rod.

Use reduced water pressure when rinsing. Place a hair net over rollers before rinsing. This helps to secure rollers. Rinse for a minimum of 5 minutes. Remove hair net and carefully blot each roller thoroughly and independently. Re-wrap any roller that does not have the hair smoothly wrapped around it (hair can/may shift during rinsing).

If longer hair is wrapped around the rollers more than 3 revolutions, partially unwrap to ensure the Bonding Lotion gets to the ends of hair. Re-wrap for a 5 minute processing, no longer! Rinse for 3 minutes before removing rollers. Apply a light conditioner such as Color Ensure, Hydrating or Volumizing and rinse for 2 minutes. Towel dry and lightly mist hair with Thermal Insulator and style.

Healthy Transition Diet

by Staff on Thursday, May 14th, 2009


Helping a client transition? Advise her to keep a close eye on her diet. Eating green leafy veggies and drinking water strengthens the hair and increases elasticity, which definitely aids in the transition process.

Avoiding Breakage

by Staff on Thursday, May 14th, 2009

Clients who are transitioning from relaxed hair to natural hair know how fragile their hair is during this time. Help your clients minimize breakage during the transition by advising them to treat the hair gently and to minimize combing at this time. How much breakage she gets is dependent on her hair type and how the two of you treat her hair during the transitioning process.

Post-Shower Care of Permed Hair

by Staff on Thursday, May 14th, 2009

Advise your client to not wrap her hair in a towel turban after she gets out of the shower with wet hair. The added friction can knot and damage vulnerable wet hair. Instead, suggest she carefully blot her hair dry with a microfiber towel.

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