Posts Tagged ‘redken’

Introducing CurlStylist Blogger Jill Leitz

by Jill Leitz on Monday, February 15th, 2010

Jill Leitz

As one of the most sought-after stylists in the beauty industry, Jill Leitz possesses an endless passion for creating innovative and conceptual styles that display the perfect balance between texture and movement. After almost four decades in the business, Jill stays on the cutting-edge of the hair industry with her unquenchable thirst for knowledge and training on the latest styles, techniques and theory. From design and color to client building and salon management, Jill has been gifted with overflowing creative talent combined with a strong commitment to educating, empowering, and inspiring fellow salon professionals. As a three-time NAHA award-winner, Jill’s reputation as a innovative and creative force has been recognized in spades by the beauty industry.

I have a confession to make: I love curly hair. Since my very early days as a hairstylist, I’ve always been drawn to curly hair—intrigued and fascinated by its texture, structure and body. Curly hair has such an amazing, creative, playful, flirtatious energy associated with it. With its infinite shape, it exudes glamour and beauty, captures attention and draws the eye to it.

Most of my fellow stylists at the time were afraid of curl. They didn’t understand it, and didn’t want to work with it. But, I wasn’t—I’m thankful to say that I’ve always been comfortable working with curly hair. So I forged ahead, styling the hair of as many curly-haired clients as I could. I was hungry to learn more about it, understand the unique needs and challenges it presented, and discover how stylists could unlock its potential to create healthy, great-looking curls that their curly-headed clients would embrace, maintain and love.

I practiced. I experimented. I made mistakes. But, with every curly-haired client, I listened and learned. I listened to women sharing stories about how they’ve been fighting with their curls their entire life—trying to change them into something they were never meant to be. I learned that some clients have curls that will cooperate one day and then turn around and rebel the next day, leaving them confused and frustrated. I listened to cries for help from curly-haired woman who sought help with frizzy and dry curls, wild and uncontrollable curls, temperamental and unruly curls, and unintentionally big and voluminous curls.

I won’t say I’ve heard it all because I still continually learn from clients—past, present and future. But, I will say I’ve learned that curly hair is completely different than straight hair, in its structure and its overall needs. Understanding and respecting the different types of curly hair textures—fine, medium and coarse—is key to determining what your game plan is to giving the right cut and educating your clients about the type of care and products their curly hair needs to retain its shape and style. And, I’ve gained an understanding of how color really complements and completes the story of that beautiful, textured hair.

I’ve learned that one of my biggest thrills in being a hairstylist is helping someone embrace their curly hair, and showing them how their hair is special—showing them that no one else has exactly their kind, texture and shape of curl. It’s so much fun to see someone finally accept their curl—being there to see that moment where the light goes on and they see what you see: ways to transform their curl into something they can work with, love and show off. It’s at that point I feel as if I’ve given them a gift, and I’m so lucky to have been part of that process—achieving your and your client’s agreed-upon vision of their shiny, beautiful, naturally curly hair.

Curly hair has come a long way. There are two things that come to mind when I think of today’s acceptance and admiration for naturally curly hair. The first is today’s culture. Hollywood, celebs, film, music, runway, couture, fashion magazines—curly hair is literally everywhere these days. Everyone is showing off nothing but sexy, glamorous curls as the “in” trend. From Colbie Caillat’s soft, romantic curls to Taylor Swift’s wavy, mermaid locks, this year’s Grammy awards show was full of curly-haired glamour. And, last month’s issue of Italian Vogue—my personal bible of inspiration—didn’t seem to have one beautiful fashion spread that didn’t show textured, curly hair.

The second thing is product. Today, stylists and curly haired clients are supported with so many amazing products that help manipulate and transform almost any kind of curl into manageable, shiny, smooth, beautiful curl. Curly haired clients have so many incredible products at their disposal that help them work with the curl they’ve got, have fun with it, and make it the best that it can be in its naturally curly state. There are products that can help define curl, lock moisture into every curl, smooth frizzy curl, bring shine to curly hair, tame unmanageable curl, transform a day look into a beautiful, glamorous evening look…the list is practically endless.

I can’t say enough about the loyalty of a naturally curly client. They covet a stylist who can cut, color, finish and help them manage their curls. And rest assured, if one curly hair spots another woman whose curls she admires, she most definitely will ask for her stylist’s number. And she will regard that number as one of the most important seven digits in her cell phone. Word of mouth is so powerful in our industry. If curly haired clients experience that you really understand curly hair—they will believe in you and trust you—you’ll truly become priceless to them. They will rebook every time, even in these hard economic times.

And in addition to referrals and rebooking regular appointments, a curly haired client helps boost your bottom line. Educate clients on the maintenance of their healthy curls while they’re in your chair, and help them understand what products will help them work with their unique type of curl. Trust me, they’ll want to purchase those products to recreate and maintain their beautiful curls at home. It’s a win-win for everyone.

And, that’s what this blog is all about. I’m so excited and grateful for the opportunity to work with - to share what I’ve learned from years of experience, as well as the opportunity I have to learn from fellow stylists. So, I want to extend an open invitation to all of you – feel free to comment about what I’ve said, share your experience working with curly hair, and really make this an interactive experience that will benefit all salon professionals.

A special note to stylists that are afraid of doing curly hair….c’mon, I know you’re out there. It’s time to confront your fears. It’s time to embrace cutting, coloring and finishing curly hair. It’s time to increase your knowledge by doing something that scares you again – because 2010 is all about curl and texture.

Join me every month as we explore the ups and downs of curly hair.

With love,
Jill Leitz

Curls Can Look Runway Ready

by Advertorial on Tuesday, December 1st, 2009

When many people think about high fashion, they think of models strutting down the runway with their hair pulled back into tight chignons.

Australian-born stylist Rodney Cutler, Redken’s Brand Ambassador, believes texture can be the ultimate glamorous accessory.

This season, Cutler says curlies can draw inspiration from the collections of such designers as Chris Benz, Luca Luca and Twinkle. In many cases, stylists had to go to extreme measures to create the texture that those with wavy and curly hair come by naturally.

Cutler believes those with waves, curls and kinks can easily achieve high-fashion, wearable looks with the right products and styling tips.

In January, Redken will unveil several new styling products for curly hair, including soft spin 05 curl-enhancing gel for fine hair, new and improved ringlet 07 curl perfecting lotion for medium hair and curl wise 14 curl defining cream for coarse hair. Rounding out Redken’s curl line up is curl force 17 texturizing spray-gel for all hair types. Each product is designed to make it easy to achieve the most fashionable looks at home.

“I believe in embracing what you have, but taking it to the next level,” Cutler says.

One of Cutler’s favorite looks is a hippie-chic style with hair parted down in the middle, with the curls concentrated at the ends, while hair is flatter at the roots. This was a style seen at both the Twinkle and Chris Benz’ Spring/Summer 2010 runway shows.

“The look is feminine, but also a little wild and edgy at the same time,” Cutler says.

Another hot look that was seen at the Luca Luca show is hair that’s “deconstructed,” with a variety of textures. This may mean brushing out the curls for a less-defined look that is “not contrived,” Cutler says.

“Some people may think deconstructed hair looks frizzy, but it has an airiness to it,” he says.

“The key is to create dramatic looks that are touchable,” Cutler says. “It’s about using just a little bit of product to create texture, hold and separation.”

Luca Luca

Luca Luca

Prep hair with Redken Extreme Shampoo and Conditioner

Chris Benz

Chris Benz

Prep hair with Redken Fresh Curls Shampoo and Conditioner

  • Step 1    Apply Redken ringlet 07 curl perfecting lotion to towel-dried hair and diffuse-dry, making sure to keep the volume on the ends
  • Step 2    Apply Redken glass 01 smoothing serum throughout midshafts and ends to reduce frizz and add shine.
  • Step 3    Finish with Redken quick dry 18 instant finishing spray for added all-day control.



Prep hair with Redken Fresh Curls Shampoo and Conditioner

  • Step 1    Apply Redken curl wise 14 curl defining cream to towel-dried hair and diffuse-dry, making sure to keep the volume on the ends.
  • Step 2    Set the midshafts and ends with a medium-size curling iron and mist Redken spray starch 15 versatile ironing spray on each section before curling.
  • Step 3    Brush the set with a boar bristle brush and mist Redken curl force 17 texturizing spray-gel through the ends for added texture

Click Here

Knowledge is Power When it Comes To Texture

by Advertorial on Monday, November 16th, 2009

Rodney Cutler

Many women with curls and kinks view their texture as the enemy — a hindrance to achieving the hairstyles they want.

But armed with an understanding of your curl type, the right cut as well as the latest styling technologies, you can help your client learn to love her hair’s natural texture rather than fight it.

“Curly hair can look beautiful in so many varying ways,” says Redken Expert Rodney Cutler, a celebrity stylist who has curls himself. “It’s all about finding that comfort level. Having the right tools can help you embrace your curls and get your hair to look the best it can look.”

It’s crucial to get an understanding of the hair’s texture. Is it loose or tight, coarse or fine? Or is it a combination of textures? The texture of your hair will help you help your client determine what styles would work best for her.

“Figuring out the texture will determine the right length as well as how many layers you put in,” Cutler says.

Then it’s about using the right products to work with the cut, texture and the weather. Redken this month has unveiled several new styling products for curly hair, including Soft Spin 05 Curl-Enhancing Gel, new and improved Ringlet 07 Curl Perfecting Lotion and Curl Wise 14 Curl Defining Cream. Rounding out Redken’s curl lineup is Curl Force 17 Texturizing Spray-Gel.

For fine, wavier hair, Cutler suggests using Redken Fresh Curls shampoo and Conditioner, then style with Redken soft spin 05 curl-enhancing gel.

For thicker, curlier locks, he likes Redken Fresh Curls Shampoo and Conditioner and styling with Redken ringlet 07 curl perfecting lotion.

And for tight, kinky hair, he suggests shampooing with Redken Fresh Curls Shampoo and conditioning with Redken Fresh Curls Curl Recovery intense rinse-out mask. To style, layer Redken Fresh Curls Curl Refiner leave-in anti-frizz detangler and Redken curl wise 14 curl defining cream for the perfect level of control.

Cutler also suggests cocktailing or layering products to get the desired results, whether the hair needs more moisture or more support. This may change depending on the hairstyle and the humidity level.

“The good thing about Redken’s new products is that they are so easily layered—whether your hair needs moisture or support,” says Cutler.

Cutler says the modern technology available in products like Redken have conditioning as well as styling agents to keep curls looking shiny, healthy and defined.

Redken’s new styling products are enriched with natural ingredients such as avocado oil, sunflower oil and mango butter — nourishing ingredients that create healthy, bouncy waves and curls.

“We’ve gone to a whole new level,” Cutler says. “We’re getting better end results and we’re getting rid of damaging ingredients. We’ve gone through the next generation plus.”

Rodney Cutler Launches Style Collection at Ulta

by Michelle Breyer on Monday, October 26th, 2009

Celebrity stylist and CurlStylist columnist Rodney Cutler recently partnered with The Salon at ULTA to launch a groundbreaking collection of one styles he created just for Ulta.

Inspired by high fashion and designed exclusively for the Salon at ULTA, Runway Your Way is a series of three versatile “looks” that will be available from stylists at all the Salon at ULTA locations nationwide.

The “looks” include:

Uptown Chic

Modern Rock

Urban Luxe

Uptown Chic: A soft, short layered cut inspired by the runway at Miu Miu; this look is ideal for those who want a sophisticated style that is chic and sassy.

Modern Rock: A disheveled, mid-length cut similar to the hair styles at the Marc Jacobs fashion show; this look is perfect for those who prefer a classic cut that lends itself to a modern twist.

Urban Luxe: A wavy, feminine, long cut reminiscent of looks seen at the Louis Vuitton show; this look is a true classic with a simple and sexy appeal.

Each “look” has several variations, depending on each individual’s texture, face shape and personality. In addition, each basic style can be created using Redken products.

An innovator in the salon industry, Cutler’s mantra is “Sexy Healthy Hair.”

“When the Salon at ULTA and Redken first approached me about this partnership, I immediately thought, “What an amazing opportunity to take these creative ideas from the runway and translate them into wearable looks for women everyday,” said Cutler. “I planned each look with the intention of making women feel beautiful, powerful and confident — just like a runway model.”

Cutler added that the idea is to bring high fashion to where consumers are already going. He said he plans to come up with new looks for the next few seasons.

“The Salon at ULTA is constantly evolving, and the new Runway Your Way collection is just one example of how we are redefining the way a national salon chain is setting the trends,” said Allyson King, Vice President of Salon Services for the Salon at ULTA. “Partnering with such a talented hair professional as Rodney Cutler enables us to offer women everywhere accessible and affordable cutting-edge cuts and styles they want with the convenience of the Salon at ULTA.”

Salon at ULTA stylists nationwide are fully trained by Redken-certified artists to master the Runway Your Way collection and this month began offering the styles.

Curly Tips from Tearsheet Artistic Team

by Staff on Tuesday, October 6th, 2009

Giovanni Giuntoli.

Giovanni Giuntoli

Because Tearsheet Artistic Team is constantly working with curly hair on photo shoots and in classes, the company knows that when it comes to curly hair, care needs to be given from the first step to the last. For Tearsheet, since photo shoot images are in high-definition, it’s important to get curls perfect every time — they don’t rely on retouching or other tricks to clean up the beauty they’ve created. And we know that whether you are working editorially or in the salon with your clients, taking your time with the process will pay off with longer-lasting, soft, natural-looking waves and ringlets, both on set and off.

Check out these tips from Tearsheet Artistic Team Artistic Director and Redken Session Stylist Giovanni Giuntoli. on how his team keeps curls looking strong and lasting long on-set:


Naturally curly hair doesn’t like to be touched and scrunched much while being diffused. Try to lift the curls up to the head to continue to activate the curls. If the curls start to break up, lower the speed on the blow dryer.

When applying product to wet hair, make sure to always be activating the curls by scrunching the product in and then leave your hands out while diffusing.


Photo courtesy of James Weber for Tearsheet

Once curly hair is dry, you may notice the product in the hair needs to be softened in spots. This is a great time to control the flyaways and add shine, since curly hair does not reflect light very well. A little help can be provided by a product that gives shine — like Redken glass 01 smoothing serum or vinyl glam 02 mega shine spray. The curls will be left with a soft, natural feel.

Try emulsifying the products in your palms and use a scrunching process from ends to scalp.

Take care to blend in the flyaways with the existing curls.

If the curls still tend to be slightly dry and extra frizzy, a very light mist of water over the top of the curls could help. Try taking a spray bottle and point it up and over the style – mist and allow the water to fall onto the curls. Use fingers to place the curls where you want them and allow hair to dry naturally.


Curly hair stays curly and not frizzy by minimum touching, so when pulling hair up make sure not to rake your fingers, comb or brush through the curls.

If a natural texture is desired, take individual subsections and place the curls atop of a pre-teased section that will act as your anchor point. Using hair pins versus bobby pins allows you to place and re-place pieces around the hairstyle without risking a snag while pulling the pin out.

Hair pins also blend in better than bobby pins, so this work looks more polished in front of the camera — and can make that little difference for your client walking down the street.

If larger, softer curls are needed for a fuller look, massage individual curl sections between your first finger and thumb before pinning — this will blossom the curls and give a softer feel to the section and the hairstyle. Use an aerosol hairspray, like Redken’s quick dry 18 instant finishing spray, to hold the hairstyle into place (aerosols are not as heavy as pumped sprays and penetrate the style better as well.)


When tired, over-worked curly hair is not giving the camera what it needs, sometimes re-curling the hair helps to revive the curls and yet still gives the image a clean, natural feel:

Gently take horizontal subsections approximately 1 inch thick and rotate between two different iron sizes close to the actual curl size. The different irons will help enhance the natural feel to the curls.

If the hair is more natural-looking with curls close in size, you can go ahead and use one iron for uniform curls.

Always make sure to curl going in both directions, toward the face and away to make sure the curls won’t interlock with each other, which can look unnatural on camera, allowing less re-touching of the curls to keep their natural bounce and reduce frizz.

We know how difficult natural curls can be to style perfectly — whether you’re styling a model on set, advising your regular client within the salon, or even have them yourself. With these easy tips and tricks we’ve learned on set, you can create perfectly luxurious curls, every time.

Redken Offers Fall Color Forecast

by Staff on Monday, August 17th, 2009

As temperatures begin to cool down outside, so will hair color this fall/winter season with more sophisticated, cooler brunettes and blonds. Tracey Cunningham, Redken Creative Consultant for Color, and David Stanko, Hair color Consultant for Redken, offer info about the latest in fall hair color trends, professional hair color products to achieve these trends, and consumer tips to communicate with their colorist and to adjust to the “coolest” looks of the season.

“Small adjustments can help consumers update their look from season to season,” explains Cunningham. “When summer comes to a close, I plan to cool my clients’ shades down this fall/winter season with Redken’s new Color Gels Ash Blue — creating sophisticated, cool shades. A color is said to have “cool tones” if it tends toward blue or violet, such as platinum blonds, ash browns, and plum reds.”


Drew Barrymore

Lindsay Lohan

Trend #1: Brunettes

“Brunettes will go to a whole new level this fall/winter with an overall cooler base. Think Fergie’s shade; her lighter highlights really show through her dark, chestnut base making her haircolor look so flawless and effortless,” says Tracey Cunningham.

Trend #2: Blondes

Cunningham says: “Blondes will be blond this fall — think Drew Barrymore’s cool, nearly platinum-blond shade for this inspiration. Clients can often be concerned with the cost to achieve and keep the perfect shade of blond, but I find that women cut back in other areas rather than haircolor as it’s one of a consumers’ most prominent and most-seen-everyday accessory!”

Trend #3: Redheads

“This fall/winter, redheads will be more sophisticated and playful with their beautiful shade, with deep red tones and a few cool, blond highlights throughout to enhance the red even more,” says Cunningham

“To complete the fall/winter hair color story, Redken is launching the new Color Gels Ash Blue shades, creating sophisticated, icy cool blonds and brunettes to cool, correct, and condition women’s hair,” says Stanko. “The three new easy-to-use, versatile shades neutralize warmth and increase cool tonalities from subtle to intense degrees. Redken’s exclusive Select Dye System ensures long-lasting results with supple conditioning and shine. Consumers looking for these cooler shades for fall/winter should ask their colorist about the new Color Gels Ash Blue.”

Color Gels Ash Blue Features and Benefits:

  • Select Dye System: 100% oxidative, long-lasting dyes for color with holding power and resistance to fading
  • Wheat Proteins: Help protect hair’s protein structure during the coloring process
  • Avocado Oil: Serves as a natural emollient to help keep hair soft, touchable and glossy

“Remember that good communication with your colorist is essential for getting the color you want,” adds Stanko. “A few minutes of pre-salon prep can help you explain your goals, and ensure that your colorist understands your desired result.”

More from Redken on their new colors


Three new shades to create the most sophisticated, icy brunettes and blondes. The ultimate addition to the Color Gels palette, new Ash Blue shades neutralize warmth and color correct with a blue corrective tone. The exclusive Select Dye System ensures long-lasting results with supple conditioning and shine.

Who is it for?

  • Colorists looking to create sophisticated, icy cool blondes and brunettes when lifting to lighter levels.
  • Colorists looking to expand the versatility of the Color Gels palette by mixing with other Color Gels shades to increase cool tonalities from subtle to intense degrees.
  • Use Color Gels Ash Blue shades on their own to color correct using a blue tone or for ultimate cooling.

5AB Twilight:
Provides strong blue tones to control orange undertones on light to dark brown hair. Use as a stand alone shade to provide the coolest results. Mix a small amount with R, RB, or RV shades at a similar level to increase the degree of coolness in final result. Mix with an N shade at a similar level to cover gray while maintaining a cool tonality on the finished result.

7AB Moonstone:
Provides light blue tones to control orange undertones exposed when lifting light brown to dark blonde hair. A stunning stand alone shade, yet it can be mixed with NA shades at a similar level to create subtle variations on the degree of coolness in your final result. Mix with an N shade at a similar level to cover gray while maintaining a cool tonality on the finished result.

8AB Stardust:
Provides lightest blue tones to create the ultimate icy cool blonde. 8AB offers superior control of warmth when lifting light brown to medium blonde hair. Mix a small amount with level 9 and 10 shades to prevent excessive warmth when lifting to lighter levels. Mix with an N shade at a similar level to cover gray while maintaining a cool tonality on the finished result.

How is it used?

Mixing and Processing

Mix Color Gels shades in a 1:1 ratio of color to Color Gels Developer (10, 20, 30, 40 volume). Example: Mix 1 oz. 7AB Moonstone Color Gels + 1 oz. 20 Volume Color Gels Developer.

  • Always use immediately after mixing
  • Processing time is up to 45 minutes, depending on the developer used
  • Process at room temperature. DO NOT USE HEAT

See Color Gels Shade Chart or Education Guide for more detailed mixing and processing information.

Pre-Service Best Practices

Before you begin any chemical service:

  • Precisely follow package instructions for haircolor, lightener and texture products
  • Perform necessary patch tests as outlined in the directions
  • Wear suitable gloves for all preparation and applications
  • Utilize protective smocks or capes for you and your clients during the service

Launch: October 2009

Available: Salons and stores

The Art of Cutting Curly Hair

by Michelle Breyer on Saturday, May 30th, 2009

Jonathan Torch

Jonathan Torch

Toronto stylist Jonathan Torch, founder of the Curly Hair Solutions line of products, says he never thought he’d become an expert on cutting curly hair. But he had one curly-headed customer with bulky, unmanageable hair and he made it his mission to find a cut that could help her get the haircut she desired.

What Torch discovered was that he didn’t need to cut every strand of hair. He needed to cut the pieces that could reduce the bulk, but cut them in a way that was invisible to the eye. And he needed to be able to cut these same pieces every time she came in.

“You have to look at each curl as an individual,” Torch says. “I worked on a system I could customize for each person.”

So Torch began to study curly hair. He studied the way it looked wet and dry; he worked with tight curls and loose waves. He learned about shrinkage and frizz and curl formation. He learned how to create different layers of ringlets. He learned to play with the hair to see what it wanted to do. And he learned to throw some old ideas out the window — ideas that were the holy grail for cutting straight hair.

“You can’t cut curly hair accurately,” Torch says. “Learning to break the rules and to cut hair unevenly is foreign to hairdressers. You have to change your whole thought process.”

It has happened to all of us curlyheads at least once. We encounter a stylist who swears she can cut curly hair, only to have our hair end up too short, too uneven, too puffy or just altogether an unmanageable mess.

In too many cases, the problem stems from bad training or a lack of training altogether. Most beauty schools don’t have the time to teach stylists how to work with curly hair. So many stylists attempt to cut curls just as they would straight hair or wavy hair. And they learn the hard way that it just doesn’t work.



“Schools don’t teach how to cut curly hair,” says Ouidad, the “Queen of Curl,” who developed a carve-and-slice technique to cut curly hair.

But a growing number of stylists have developed their own techniques for cutting curls — techniques learned through years of studying and working with hundreds of curlyheads. What they have found is that to cut curly hair well is as much an art as it is a science.

“There’s a period of illumination that happens when people realize they can cut curly hair,” says Chris Baran, global artistic director for design at Redken International. “They discover the beauty that goes on with it.”

Baran says the key to cutting curls is to think of the head of hair as positive and negative space. With positive, you can’t see through it. With negative, you can.

“That’s what gives the hair the degree of sensuality — that edge that people with straight hair don’t have,” Baran he says. “The trick is figuring out how to cut it to put it in.”

Austin stylist David Moreno, who has developed a large and loyal following of curlyheaded clients, says he likes to cut curly hair dry because wet hair can be deceiving. As he cuts, he creates an imaginary shape, cutting the hair outside of that shape, creating invisible layers. He likes to cut the hair on an angle to encourage the curl to wrap around itself. He’s a firm believer that every hair doesn’t need to be cut every time — a philosophy he calls his “Bonsai Theory.”

“What we’re trying to do is get texture,” Moreno says.

Stylists well versed in ringlets have learned about shrinkage and have developed their own techniques to adjust for it.

John Blaine, a stylist at Yutaka Salon in West Hollywood, says likes to start cutting with the hair wet, but finishes with it dry. He only cuts half as much as he would with straight hair.

“You can really see how much shrinkage there is with the hair,” he says.

Some techniques absolutely don’t work with curls. Layers may turn into ledges. A texturizing razor may create a dreadful headful of frizz if used on tight curls. Without the right shape, a head of curls can look like a pyramid.

“You can’t cut curly hair blunt,” Ouidad says. “You have to cut it in angles.”

Not every stylist is well suited to cutting curls, Torch says.

“They become frustrated by tangles, by the dryness, by the unpredictability,” he says. “With straight hair, they can get that one bang to fall into that same position every single day. But that curly hair may never go into that position again. For people with curly hair, control is never going to happen.”

“I can’t train a stylist until they develop a passion for curly hair,” Torch says.

Younger hairdressers, he says, seem more eager and less fearful of working with curls. They have also grown up at a time when curls are more prevalent in Hollywood and on the fashion runways. They see them as something to play up rather than something to fight, he says.

“The next generation of hairdressers may not be afraid of curly hair,” he says.

Kelli McClain, a stylist with INNU in Austin, has developed just such a passion for curly hair.

“In school we learned the bare minimum,” McClain says. “The mannequins in school all have straight hair.”

So the curlyhead has taught herself how to work with curls.

“It’s like sculpting — like trimming shrubbery,” McClain says. “You have to cut it and see where it falls. You have to cut the right hairs and look at it from all different angles.”

Even those considered the best at cutting curls say they are continually learning new things.

“The past 10 years, I’ve learned how to control the bulk and create a perfect canvas,” Torch says. “The next few years, I want to start playing around with design to come up with fresh styles for curly hair.”

Keep Your Test Strands Organized

by Staff on Friday, May 22nd, 2009

As salon professionals, we usually have very busy days in the salon. If you’ve ever had a situation where you ‘forgot’ which test strand goes with which formula, here is a simple rule to follow: always put the lighter formula on the left side in the back of your guest’s head. Then, place the darker of the two test strands on the right. Do the same thing with your haircolor and lighteners when foiling, so when you look down at your color trolley or station, the lightener is on the left and high-lift color is on the right. If you do this, you won’t have to question your test strands and highlight choices.

— Redken

Foiling Tip
for Time Management

by Staff on Friday, May 22nd, 2009

Work ahead of yourself. To determine your formula when coloring between foils… do a strand test.

Before placing foils, place 1 or 2 test strands in the back of your guest’s head, set a timer for your processing time and begin foiling. When the timer goes off, stop foiling and check your test strands. After choosing the test strand you like best, finish your foil placement, mix your test strand formula and apply between foils; process accordingly.

— Redken

Create Corkscrew Curls

by Staff on Thursday, May 21st, 2009


The finished look

The Look: Perfect for short curly hair, this innovative technique scatters tighter more compressed curls throughout the hair to increase interest and up the fun factor of a sassy style.


Step 1.

Step 1: Blend ringlet 07 and solid water 06 wet set gel in your palms and apply through the hair. Comb through to distribute evenly. Diffuse the hair dry.


Step 2.

Step 2: Take random sections — anywhere you wish to add a different textured effect into the natural diffused wave pattern. Using a color brush (or a chopstick or tail comb) wrap the section neatly around the brush twisting the section as you wrap. Slide out the brush, pin in place and then use your diffuser to apply heat. Repeat on random sections around the head. Allow to cool.


Step 3.

Step 3: Apply a small amount of solid water 06 to your hands and then “pull through” the corkscrews to release the curls. You could also “ruch” the sections by holding the section at the tip and pushing the hair upward to create more volume and lighter, airier curls.

— Redken

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