A hair color change was in order for blonde actress Camilla Luddington.
RaMona Fleetwood shares her hairstyling secrets from the Lifetime TV release of William and Kate which aired Monday, April 18th, 2011. With the Royal Wedding taking place on April 29, 2011, the love story of their romance was filmed in Los Angeles with Nico Evers-Swindell as Prince William and Camilla Luddington portraying Kate Middleton. To recreate their “royal” look, hairstylist RaMona Fleetwood used professional hair color from IT&LY HAIRFASHION and hair care from both IT&LY HAIRFASHION and White Sands Products for this highly anticipated release.
According to RaMona, “IT&LY HAIRFASHION’S Colorly 2020 hair color and styling products along with White Sands Products saved the day. Even during many of the rainy days filming outside, their hair held and the color could not have been more natural.”
To style, RaMona applied a dime size amount of Orchids Oil by White Sands from roots to ends before each blow dry. Next, she sprayed White Sands Liquid Texture Firm Hold Styling Spray at the root area and set Camilla’s hair on jumbo hot rollers for volume. After makeup, RaMona removed the hot rollers and spiral wrapped small sections around a 1 ¼ inch curling iron alternating the direction of each curl. This technique helped create the natural waves and curls Kate Middleton wears. To finish, RaMona sprayed her hair with IT&LY Pure Hair Eco non-aerosol Hairspray for hold. To control fly-a-ways picked up by high definition with back lighting, RaMona carried a bottle of IT&LY Pure Water Drops to smooth any tiny, loose hairs with her fingertips. For the infamous runway look, RaMona began with dry hair, creating a side part. Next, she lightly sprayed the roots and hair shaft with White Sands Liquid Texture Firm Hold Styling Spray. To create the curl and texture, she then took small sections and slightly twisted them as she rolled them on 2 sets of hot rollers. The bang area was set off base and over directed to achieve a “Veronica Lake” bang. After 20 minutes, RaMona removed the hot rollers and shook the curls to loosen them. For hold, she sprayed them with IT&LY Hair Eco Non-aerosol Hairspray.
IT&LY Pure Water Drops were used to smooth down any fly-a-ways for the rest of the cast’s updos for the runway scenes; RaMona relied upon White Sands Infinity Hairspray.
Nico Evers-Swindell as Prince William
Nico’s light ash brown hair was also colored with IT&LY HAIRFASHION’S cruelty free Colorly 2020 hair color to match Prince William’s hair. As the department head, RaMona achieved the Prince’s look by creating a slight bend to the ends using White Sands Liquid Texture Firm Hold Styling Spray with a small flat iron and defining the style with IT&LY’s Pure Definition Paste. IT&LY HAIRFASHION, N.A. President/CEO Richard Zucckero and Noel Salas, CFO of White Sands Products proudly supplied RaMona Fleetwood with their professional products.
Hair has been Anna Craig’s passion since she was 12 years old; this has always been her path in life. In 2001, she went to school in Tempe, AZ, at the Carsten Aveda Institute. After doing hair for about 5 years, she realized that precision haircuts were her specialty, after years of thinking that color was her calling. After doing hair in Arizona for several years, she took the plunge and moved to Texas, and her career took off. She soon opened her own salon, Trashy Roots Salon & Spa. There she became a Certified Deva Stylist, specializing in Curly Girl haircuts. She is also an Artistic Educator for Pravana, which gives her the opportunity to go out to different salons in the area and educate them on new products and techniques. She is very involved in her community—holding annual cut-a-thons, participating in benefit hair shows, and helping with local beauty schools.
It’s crazy the number of stylists out there that don’t sell or know how to sell retail to their clients. A common thing that I hear is “I’m not a salesperson.” But you are—sales is our business. Not only do you want your clients to use the best products out there for their hair, but you want them to come back to you. If a client can’t replicate her hair at home like you did in the salon, she’s more likely to find another stylist because her hair never looks good. If you show her how to style her hair with the proper products and educate her on how to use the products, she will keep coming back.
From the moment a client sits in my chair, I ask them about what products they have been using on their hair. This will also give you an idea of what kind of client they are. If they use tons of different salon brand products then you know they probably frequent a salon more often. If they use generic grocery store products just based on price, you might have a harder sell, but if the product is right you might have a deal. I then educate my client about what type of product my salon carries and how our products differ. I also let them know about any specials we might have going on. I talk to them about the different products I am using on their hair when I start to style their hair. Then, when I walk them up front to check out, I go over to the retail section and show them exactly what I recommend for their hair—and why. This is the chance to put products in the client’s hands so they can look at it. If a client touches the product they are more apt to buy it. I will again go over special sales when I am up front.
Salons should always have a product on sale or have a special. This helps put a focus on different products every month. If a particular product isn’t moving off the shelf, highlight that product this month so clients can get interested. If you receive a new product line, put a special on it, like 10% off, to get people to try it. Once they see how spectacular the products are, they’ll be hooked. Offering a trade-up program helps get the ball rolling—trade in 1 generic grocery store product for $5 off a salon product. Make sure your shelves are fully stocked, especially on the most popular products.
Retail plays such an important role in our salons. Salon products to a stylist are like a prescription to a doctor—they keep the clients looking good and happy just like a medicine keeps a patient healthy. It’s your job to keep your clients looking good at all times.
Famed celebrity hairstylist James Corbett sat down with Paltalk’s own Diana Falzone to discuss what the “gotta have it” spring 2011 hairstyles are while answering user questions and tips about best products, style tips, celebrity icons and even a little Real Housewives gossip.
Highlights of the interview included:
Advice: “Look at the trends as a source of inspiration but not necessarily actualization”
Theme for spring 2011 hair: Be adventurous this season with the new “pixie cut”
Celebrity style inspiration: Halle Berry
Product tip: Pomade over mousse
Celeb throwback: It used to be “The Rachel” but now Jennifer Aniston’s “Reincarnated Bob” is the hot talk of the town
Color tip for 2011: “Going Blonde” got big again but it’s not right for everyone as Corbett points out for some of the “The Real Housewives of Orange County” cast members
Bridal tip: Paul Mitchell Soft Spray gets a shout out as one of the best products for the perfect balance between hold and flexibility on the big day
Portland stylist Amie Zimmerman recalled a curly client who showed her what she used to tame her hair.
“She came in with Dep Gel, hand lotion and coconut oil, and swore it was the only thing that would work,” Zimmerman says.
Any curly girl or stylist who regularly works with texture will tell you they have become makeshift chemists, creating their own mixtures of products in their search for the perfect solution for curls and kinks. These might include any possible combination of conditioners, gels, mousses, serums, creams and pomades. A product from one company often is mixed with products from others.
Why do we depend on so many products to get the right look?
“The benefit of using more than one product in curly hair is that you can fine tune the texture and resilience of the curl and the shape of the style,” says New York-based stylist Giovanni Giuntoli, artistic director at Tearsheet Editorial Styling Classes and a Redken session stylist. “Sometimes one product doesn’t give you all the benefits of two or three. It’s similar to giving your hair a multivitamin, compared to just a Vitamin C tablet. It helps out more.”
Diedre Boone, owner of The Root of You Salon and Day Spa in Houston, which specializes in ethnic skin and hair care, says African-American and multi-ethnic women have a wide variety of hair types and one product rarely does the trick.
“The fact that their hair textures vary so dramatically, we find it necessarily to mix together different products on different people,” Boone says.
Depending on how thick, porous and kinky the hair is, she uses different concentrations of different products.
Zimmerman says she likes to keep her product combinations simple to prevent the ingredients from canceling each other out. She might mix a curl enhancer with a leave-in conditioner to provide a softer hold, or a little styling gel with a straightening balm for loose, defined waves.
“Sometimes product cocktails may defy logic, Zimmerman admits.
“I’m always saying ‘Oh no, they’re using silicone-based, petroleum-based products with water-based products and they’ll never bond to the hair or distribute through their hair the way they want them to,” she says. “I imagine these fist fights between the water and petroleum, with the silicone waiting to wrap up the whole mess at the end. I’m a total geek!”
Many companies have caught on to this trend, and have created products meant to be used together.
While using a variety of products can be a great way to customize products, some caution stylists against complicated cocktailing. Luis Alvarez, co-founder of Aquage, believes stylists do their clients a disservice if they created complicated cocktails that are difficult to replicate at home. For example, the company advocates stylists cocktail Aquage’s Defining Gel with its new SeaExtend Silkening Oil on waves and curls because the combo can’t be botched.
“Be careful with cocktailing because it can go south very quickly,” Alvarez says. “Some of the things we do behind the chair might not be something you want to pass on to a client who may not have the technical expertise to replicate it at home. The more straightforward the information, the greater the odds the client will succeed.”
When it comes to curly hair, no two heads are alike.
Some people have loose waves. Others have coarse, kinky ringlets. And still others may have a combination of waves, curls and kinks – straight on the crown, tight curls at the nape and defined ringlets everywhere else.
Redken Fresh Curls
“Some people have a very defined curl,” says Omar Sassin, a Redken artist with the Omar Sassin Salon in Tampa, Fla. “Then there is the type of hair that needs a little more help.”
Because of the unique nature of curly hair, there is no such thing as one product that works for all curl types. While some frizzier, coarser curls may need heavier, more moisturizing products, those same products will weigh down finer, looser waves.
“In the past, there used to be a one-size-fits-all approach to curls,” says Noah Hatton, a freelance hair stylist and Redken session artist. “We now have a greater understanding about curly hair, and there are now products that help people understand their own hair.”
That’s why the Redken Fresh Curls line has a range of products that work on lazy curls as well as those that are more frizzy and unruly.
The line consists of a shampoo, conditioner, Curl Boost (to wake up curls), Anti-Frizz Shiner (to add conditioning shine and block humidity), Curl Refiner (a leave-in, anti-frizz detangler for coarse, unruly tresses) and Spring Mousse. In addition, Redken offers Crystal Curls 06 defining shine gel (for medium to coarse hair).
Redken’s elasto-shield complex includes elastopol to block out humidity and fight frizz; coconut oil to lock in moisture and shine; and oleo-amido and protein for their reparative benefits.
Redken artist Vanessa Arce of Beauty Box Salon in Los Angeles, who has curly hair herself, is thrilled with Redken’s new approach to curls.
She says she has one client who uses the Curl Refiner and Curl Boost on her thick, coarse curls. She follows it up with a little Crystal Curls.
“Her hair is left feeling very soft and defined,” she says.
For finer curls, Arce uses the Curl Boost, and then diffuses the hair. Heavier products tend to weigh down fine curls, making them look flat. “The more Curl Boost you use, the curlier it becomes,” she says.
For clients with the most frizzy, unruly curls, Sassin uses a technique he calls “spinning.” He puts Redken Crystal Curls on the hair, and he divides the hair into sections — the bigger the section, the softer the curl. Then he spins the section around his finger and lets it fall. He diffuses it, finishing off the look with some Fresh Curls Anti-Frizz Shiner.
“People with curly hair understand their hair more than we give them credit for,” Hatton says. “They know what kind of hair they have. They just may be confused about what it needs. These products can help enhance curl, cut frizz down and add shine without weighing it down. It’s just about finding out how strong the curl pattern is, and adapting your products to work with it.”
You’ve probably heard it dozens of times from clients. They finally find their Holy Grail styling product or conditioner. It gives us the shiny, defined ringlets we’ve longed for. Then, overnight, it stops working. Their curls turn to frizz. Their hair feels like straw. They want you to tell them why?
Has their hair become immune to the product?
The unanimous answer is no. If a product isn’t giving the same results it once did, the culprits could be product buildup, hormonal changes, environmental damage and even the weather.
“There are many reasons why products can seem to stop working,” says curl expert Christo of Christo Fifth Avenue.
A major culprit is product buildup, and improper cleansing.
“You can have too much of a good thing, especially with products designed to control and give weight to curls,” says Ethan Shaw, a curly hair specialist at Ann Kelso Salon + CitySpa in Austin, Texas. “Eventually they can leave a substantial film on the hair.”
A clarifying shampoo. or a vinegar rinse, should be used once or twice a month to remove buildup from products. Products that contain oil, silicones and waxes are especially susceptible to buildup, creating a barrier that can prevent products from doing what they are supposed to do.
Jonathan Torch of the Curly Hair Institute in Toronto, Canada, says protein can also affect how products work over time.
“Some proteins can cause the hair to become brittle, and can cause breakage if they build up,” Torch says. “The smaller the protein molecule, the deeper the penetration into the hair. The larger the molecule, the easier it is for it to buildup as the protein adheres to the outside of the hair shaft.”
Seasonal changes can have a major impact on the effectiveness of products.
“The weather does have a huge effect on how your looks, and how products seem to work,” Shaw says. “Humidity, or lack thereof, can give or take away curls.”
Many times, people may not realize their hair texture has changed over time. It may become coarser, curlier or thinner. Hair tends to change every seven years.
In some cases, the length or style of the hair may change over time, requiring different types of products. A light gel that may have worked perfectly in a short curly style may not be heavy enough for longer ringlets.
“Just think of how different your hair was compared to when you were a kid,” Shaw says. “It’s natural for your hair to get more or less curly, and more or less coarse, especially with gray hair.”
Because of that , the formula of a person’s styling products will have to change as well as the way she uses them, Christo says.
If you’ve been using the same products for several years, and have noticed a change in how they work, consult with your stylist. There may be different products better suited to the changing needs of your hair.
Ouidad, of the New York curl salon Ouidad, believes it’s a fallacy that people need to change their products over time — a creative marketing strategy perpetuated by product manufacturers trying to sell more products. She said she constantly tests her products on her clients and on herself, and she believes good products continue to perform over time.
“When there is a change in the way it works, it is most likely from an extenuating circumstance, such as a medical condition or a chemical process such as color or straightening,” Ouidad says.
Stylists can play a big role in helping clients embrace their texture.
Every curly can relay a salon horror story. Be it the unsatisfactory cut, the use of the wrong products, or an altercation with a “diva” stylist, it’s no wonder so many curlies straighten their tresses so they don’t have to deal with the “madness” surrounding curly hair care.
But a stylist can play a key role in helping her clients embrace their texture rather than curse it. We asked five stylists to weigh in on how they get their clients to rock their curls, kinks, and waves.
The first thing any stylist should do is to reassure their clients about their hair, and help them see its beauty.
“Sometimes, curly clients want their hand held,” says Ron King of Bo Salon. “They want to know that it’s okay to have curly hair.”
Often, someone with curly hair doesn’t even know they have a natural curl pattern until their stylist tells them.
But making the transition from going from straight to curly might seem daunting to someone who has spent her life hiding her texture from the world. Mahogany, a stylist at Head to Toe Salon in Minnesota, finds the best solution is to teach her client how to walk the line between straight and curly before adjusting 100 percent to a curly lifestyle.
After a consultation to make sure you and your client have similar expectations, the next step is to give a curl-enhancing cut. What that cut is depends on the stylist.
“It’s not about the amount cut off, but the technique,” King says. “I cut curly hair from the inside out because not one curl is alike. When it’s cut straight, it’s too even and you are often left with a round or geometric shape.”
Taylor Weatherford of Curltopia Salon in Georgia uses the C-cut developed by curl expert Kristen James. She says it enhances the natural curl pattern and shapes the face. Barbara Morin, a Devachan certified stylist from Electra’s Beauty Lounge, suggested the dry Deva cut developed by Lorraine Massey.
For those stylists unfamiliar with curly hair types, there are plenty of places to get education.
“Curly clients want to know you can give them soft touchable curls,” Morin says.
Products — and training in how to use them — also are key to helping clients learn to love their curls. This includes shampooing, conditioning and styling products.
“You have to break the barrier of thinking that you need to cleanse your hair everyday,” says King of Bo Salon. “The curly cuticle is porous, and by allowing the natural oils of the scalp to come back to the hair, you are helping to tame and smooth it.”
Most important, says Mona Harb of Lofty Salon & Wellness Center in Vienna, Va., is to send a positive message that they are lucky to have the head of hair they were given.
“I tell them to embrace it, love it, because it’s yours,” Harb says.