Texture: Giving Clients the Texture They Want
by Michelle Breyer on Wednesday, September 1st, 2010
What if there was a product that allowed you to give clients exactly what they want? It could be used to straighten, loosen or defrizz waves and curls without damaging hair or creating an awkward grow-out period. What if this product could be used on any hair type to make the hair softer and shinier? And what if it boosted profits for salons and stylists by creating an entirely new market?
That product, say some stylists, now exists. Keratin treatments have exploded onto the scene, generating buzz among consumers and stylists alike.
A Cure for Frizz?
Three years ago, a handful of keratin companies existed—pioneers like Brazilian Keratin Treatment by Marcia Teixeira, Keratin Complex by Coppola and Global Keratin. At July’s 2010 Cosmoprof North America show in Las Vegas, there were more than 40 companies offering keratin treatment products, from large hair-care companies to small start ups.
“To have a product like a keratin straightener is a breakthrough,” says Stephanie Kocielski, a John Paul Mitchell.
Not so long ago, the only option to remove texture in the hair was to use a product containing sodium hydroxide—lye. Next came relaxers containing ammonium thioglycolate (nicknamed “thio relaxer”), a gentler service.
Most recently, those opting for a straighter look flocked to Japanese thermal reconditioning, a chemical process that permanently alters the internal structure of the hair shaft, rendering it totally straight. Thermal reconditioning (TR) was an all-or-nothing proposition, and many women with texture weren’t willing to commit to it.
But keratin treatments have not been without their share of controversy, either. When they first came on the scene, the formulas contained formaldehyde—sometimes in high concentrations. Formaldehyde is listed as a carcinogen by a number of health and safety agencies. Now many of the treatments are lower or free of formaldehyde and aldehydes, a family of compounds that straighten the hair. Many of the aldehydes are naturally derived and less toxic than formaldehyde. Additionally, some stylists and clients may wear masks to protect themselves from any irritants.
A World of Options
Today’s new wave of relaxers, silkeners and smoothers give clients and stylists more choices than ever.
“It’s all about making your texture—whatever it is—better,” says Sasha Polit, marketing manager for Global Keratin Smoothing System. “If you want to change the texture, we offer that option, but if you want to work with your natural texture, we also offer that option.”
Global Keratin offers Light Wave, for those who want to keep their natural texture; Curly, for those who want more straightening capability; and Resistant, for the straightest look.
Methods vary, but the most commonly-used keratin treatment involves the stylist washing a client’s hair with a clarifying shampoo, applying the keratin treatment and then using a flat iron to straighten the hair and “seal” the treatment.
Before
“In the past, there weren’t a lot of options,” says Darby Shields, associate artistic director for ISO, which developed the Maintamer, a semi permanent retexturizer that softens and smooths naturally curly or previously permed hair. “You either had floppy hair, curly hair or straw hair. There wasn’t a lot in between. It was a big decision for people to do something so permanent with their hair. Maintamer is reversible the next day.”
After
With variety of new options comes an increased need for communication between stylist and client.
“When they start asking about a treatment, you have to dig deep into what they really want,” says Amanda Jenkins, master stylist and education director at Arrojo Studio. “Can they achieve it without a chemical treatment? I ask my clients to bring in pictures so we’re both very clear about what they’re expecting. It’s all about the consultation.”
Sleek Service
Some clients may want their hair completely straight. In that case, Kocielski says she may suggest The Relaxer by JPMS, a sodium hydroxide relaxer that eliminates curl. “Some people think they’ll be able to wash their hair and it will dry straight, but that’s probably not the case with a keratin treatment,” she says. “Keratin treatments can condition and soften the hair, but they don’t always straighten it.”
Price is also an important consideration. Keratin treatments and other types of chemical relaxers cost several hundred dollars, and may need to be redone every three to five months.
For the stylist, keratin treatments have provided a way to make their clients happy and boost their profit margin at the same time. One 32-ounce bottle of the KeraFusion System from De Fabulous can generate $4,000 for the stylist, says Rebecca Letizia, marketing director of De Fabulous.
In addition to the in-salon treatments, companies like Keratin Complex, Global Keratin and Marcia Teixeira Brazilian Keratin Treatment offer maintenance products designed to extend the life of the service and enhance the results. These products can also boost retail sales for the salon.
“These clients will come back every three to five months,” Polit says. “The more they use the product, the shinier, softer and more manageable their hair will be. You’re building
a client for life.”
The PhytoSpecific PhytoRelaxer relaxes or texturizes all hair types with a non-chemical formula. It comes in two levels: one for fine, delicate hair and one for coarse, resistant hair.
Smooth Operators
Here are a few of the keratin treatments available on the market today:
Keratin Complex Smoothing Therapy by Coppola: Keratin Complex Smoothing Therapy was founded by stylist and salon owner Peter Coppola. The therapy eliminates up to 95 percent of frizz and curl and instantly adds shine and condition to the hair.
Marcia Teixeira Brazilian Keratin Treatment: This treatment is for all kinds of hair to leave it soft, shiny and frizz-free for up to four months. It can be used safely on just about any type of hair—dry, frizzy, overprocessed, color treated, ethnic unprocessed virgin hair.
Pravana Kerafusion Keratin Treatment: This salon service permanently transforms coarse, curly, unruly hair to smooth, straight and shiny. Or, it makes fine, limp hair voluminous. It contains no thio, no sodium hydroxide, no formaldehyde, no aldehydes. As part of the Keratin Fusion service, Pravana’s Thermal Insulator protects the hair during the texture control.
Brazilian Blowout: Through the use of a Brazilian Super Nutrient Complex and a proprietary polymer system, the Brazilian Blowout improves the condition of the hair by creating a protective protein layer around the hair shaft to eliminate frizz and smooth the cuticle. Results last up to 12 weeks.
Global Keratin: The Juvexin Hair Taming System incorporates a keratin formulation which protects the hair and prevents damage to hair surface. The system is an organic, active complex component, delivered to the hair in its raw, natural state. Amino acids and proteins remain whole to condition hair and protect it from damage caused by environmental factors.
ISO Maintamer: ISO Maintamer Straightening System is a two-step straightening system that smoothes coarse hair, taming unruly curls and waves, un-perming ends and controlling frizzy hair. Maintamer uses a damage-free, thio-free, lye-free Isoamine technology that processes primarily within the cortex of the hair, to minimize damage to the cuticle while altering the pattern of naturally curly or previously permed hair to soften and smooth.
La Brasiliana: Intense treatment that softens, smoothes and relaxes all hair types. Available in Original, Apple and Mocha varieties.
PhytoSpecific PhytoRelaxer: This non-chemical relaxer relaxes or texturizes all hair types. Formulated with molecules from egg and soya, it is odorless and does not contain lye. It’s available in two levels: for fine, delicate hair and one for coarse, resistant hair.
Paul Mitchell’s DeJoria Honored
by Staff on Tuesday, October 27th, 2009
John Paul DeJoria
John Paul DeJoria of John Paul Mitchell Systems was honored by the elite salon owners of Intercoiffure America/Canada with their prestigious “Visionary of the Year” Award at the annual Members Trend Luncheon on October 19 in New York City.
Intercoiffure America/Canada (ICA) established the “Visionary of the Year” Award in 2007 to recognize extraordinary individual achievements in influencing business or creative trends in the beauty industry. “John Paul DeJoria’s ongoing accomplishments in business and philanthropy are exactly what this award is all about,” says ICA president Lois Christie. “The Board of Directors and I are truly honored to be able to recognize DeJoria’s energy, generosity of spirit and business acumen.”
John Paul DeJoria and partner Paul Mitchell founded John Paul Mitchell Systems (paulmitchell.com) in 1980. Their goal was to build a company that not only provided hairdressers with the best professional products but also provided business tools to help their professional customers be successful.
Smoke & Mirrors from Paul Mitchell
by Staff on Thursday, October 1st, 2009
New collection by 2009 Photo Shoot Contest Winner Mikel Sandoval
When you think of the words, motivation, creativity, and inspiration you imagine a designer by the name of Sandoval. Having been in the industry of hair design for over twenty years, he has obtained the knowledge of successful salon management and retail sales, combined with his imaginative and exciting approaches to hair design.
As a Master Associate, Sandoval has traveled the globe training stylists in John Paul Mitchell Systems® the color and Paul Mitchell® luxury hair care while performing his unique techniques on stage. His international travels include South Africa, Italy, Spain, Germany, South East Asia, Switzerland and the Caribbean.
Sandoval’s sense of style and fashion have made him one of the most sought after artists working in the beauty industry today. His work has been featured in many consumer and trade magazines, showing his expertise in hair design.
He continues his research and development of what consumers are looking for and what fashion suggests as style.
Industry Giants Offer Appreciation to the Military
by Gretchen Heber on Monday, September 28th, 2009
Soldiers and military spouses at Fort Hood in Killeen, Texas, were treated to an inspirational day of beauty and motivation yesterday, featuring two of the hair industry’s biggest names.
John Paul DeJoria, co-founder of John Paul Mitchell Systems, and Geno Stampora, salon owner, trainer, author and industry icon, thrilled the crowd with motivational stories and much gratitude for the audience members’ sacrifice for their country.
Geno Stampora wowed the crowd with his humor and his positive message.
“We have here spouses and those in arms. It is a privilege to go in front of you to thank you for your service,” said DeJoria. “You all help preserve the American dream.”
Stampora, who had the audience doubled over in laughter much of the time, told the crowd, “You make the moment matter. You make the day matter.” Heads nodded along as he said, “This base is not a place for ego; it’s a place for heart.”
DeJoria, who revealed he is an admiral in the Texas Navy (who knew Texas had a Navy?), echoed Stampora’s positive message, “We feel that success unshared is failure.” He added to the military spouses, “You’re already doing it. You’re already giving back.”
John Paul DeJoria blesses and thanked audience members for their service to country.
DeJoria mentioned the Paul Mitchell brand will have “more unique products coming out” in the coming year, but didn’t provide details. He said that Paul Mitchell hasn’t raised its prices in a couple years — “America doesn’t need that right now.”
In addition to the speeches, the approximately 300 audience members were invited to fill their NaturallyCurly-donated tote bags with oodles of products provided by a variety of hair care companies, including Aquage, Paul Mitchell, Conair, Circle of Friends, Paul Brown, Sorme and Spornette.
Students from the Paul Mitchell School in Austin were available to offer product consultations.
A Paul Mitchell School student, right, offers product advice to a military wife.
Keratin Treatments Dominate Premiere Orlando
by Michelle Breyer on Thursday, June 11th, 2009
Keratin treatments, such as those offered by Keratin Complex Smoothing Therapy, were a big focus of Premiere Orlando.
Texture was the focus at Premiere Orlando 2009 — changing a client’s natural texture, that is.
Every other booth seemed to offer some new keratin treatment to straighten or loosen curls and kinks. The main curl-oriented booth, DevaConcepts, sat next to a huge Keratin Complex Smoothing Therapy booth, complete with bare-chested models painted silver. Marcia Teixeira, Brazilian Keratin Treatment, NanoKeratin System, Global Keratin, OK Original Keratin, Dream Hair Keratin Therapy, Magik of Keratin, Natura Keratin, BEOX Keratin and X-Treme Keratin Care were among the companies selling products designed to straighten hair without the damage of traditional chemical relaxers. Since gaining popularity over the past two years, keratin treatments have taken the country by storm, with a growing number of hairdressers forgoing thermal reconditioning in favor of this hot import from Brazil.
Noah Melngailis, right, demonstrates CurlStylist.com to a stylist.
Although the keratin companies’ booths attracted their fair share of crowds, there was plenty of interest in curls and kinks as well. Companies such as John Paul Mitchell Systems, Aquage and Tigi showcased curly styling techniques at their booths along with Deva. And CurlStylist.com, which officially launched at the Orlando event, attracted hundreds of stylists hungry for information about how to work with waves, curls and kinks.
Another hot product offering this year was argan oil, with several companies showcasing products containing this oil from Marrakesh. The oil, which is said to have restorative and age-defying effects, has become one of the latest miracle ingredients in the beauty industry because it is high in vitamin E and essential fatty acid. It is believed to help all sorts of skin and hair conditions. MorrocanOil, which offers a wide range of haircare products containing argan oil, has become the leader in this niche, and they had a huge booth at this year’s show.
CurlStylist’s Gretchen Heber, right, discusses the company’s new site with curly stylists.
The show — held June 7 and 8 — attracted the top names in the beauty business, including Angus Mitchell and Robert Cromeans from John Paul Mitchell Systems, Kim Vo, Orlando Pita, Nick Arrojo, Martin Parsons and Sam Villa.
Celebrating its 19th year, the show served up its biggest selection of hair education to date, with top-notch educators providing valuable education in a wide number of subjects. Over 43,000 stylists were expected to attend the event this year.
Premiere Scenes: Real Stylists with Real Curls!
CurlStylist’s Michelle Breyer, right, shows an interested stylist the ins and outs of CurlStylist.com.
Salon owner and cutting expert Anna Craig offers tips on running your business.
Ron King, L'Oreal educator, writes about his "easy-wear" philosophy.
Globetrotter Antonio Gonzales got his start doing his sisters' hair in Trinidad.
Ivan Zoot addresses haircutting.
