Review of “Your Colorist’s Favorite Brush”
by Antonio Gonzales on Thursday, February 3rd, 2011
I was born in Trinidad in the height of a hurricane. I spent my childhood surrounded by the sights and sounds and smells of Carnival and the other Indian, African and Spanish festivals of the Islands. Loving the amazing costumes, I got my start dressing my sisters and doing their hair and makeup. An opportunity came up to work with Trinidad’s leading costume designers, makeup artists and hair stylists. After I left the Island, my career evolved with work in Munich, Los Angeles and now New York City. Here in New York, I am a stylist at the Orlo Salon in the Meat Packing district. Vogue magazine recently named me as one of the rising hairstylist stars in N.Y., I was awarded the best haircut of 2008 by shecky’s.com, Gotham Magazine called me a Shear Genius and Allure Magazine featured me as one of the best cuts 2009.
I like to think of myself as a guinea pig for my readers and for hairstylists. I love having the opportunity to try something new and keep on trying it until I can give the honest opinion of my experience with any particular product. I am also happy to try to promote a new product, especially if it was developed by a fellow colorist. When I decided to try “Your Colorist’s Favorite Brush” from Patrick McIvor Color Studio, I was looking forward to seeing if the claims were true.
Before using the brush I knew this much: The brush consists of 13 rows of Tourmaline Crystal Complex-infused pins mounted on a cushion surface that protects hair from pulling and a professional handle that comfortably grips to the hand. It also claimed to have negative ionic charge, which helps to repair hair with heat. Without any of my co-workers knowing, I started using the brush in the salon on my clients as recommended. First let me say that this brush feels really good; it’s by far the most comfortable brush I have ever held and it just feels really good! I brushed my client’s hair prior to a color service from roots to ends; it detangled the hair really well. As I kept using it, I realized that it was calming the texture and giving the hair a little shine. My first thoughts were that it was bringing the natural oils from the scalp to the ends, but as I kept using it (client after client), I realized it was having a good impact on the hair; it was subtle but noticeable, indeed.
Then I started using it only on wet hair after shampooing and it worked well. I know it was designed to use on glazed or glossed hair, but at that point I just wanted to take baby steps. I finally decided to use it on hair that had a glaze or gloss on it. I brushed from the ends first working my way up to the scalp. Once again it worked and even today I am still using it on my clients. It’s hard to describe exactly what happens to the hair, but at the shampoo bowl, the glaze is even shinier on the hair. Today I had a client that I had not seen for a year and I could tell that her hair was “over-glazed” and needed a consistent layer of permanent hair color. Instead of using a glaze at the shampoo bowl, I did a good old-school “soap cap” and used this special brush. All I can say is that you have to experience it for yourself.
And remember how I used it in the salon without any announcements? Well, a fellow colorist walked over to me and said, “Where did you get this brush?” I asked, “Why?” Jennifer said, “I love it! It feels so good! I’ve been using it and I really dig it!” Needless to say, Jennifer is very skeptical about any new product because of all the gimmicks in the market. I actually think she is trying to steal it from me.
I will say this: I am still a little leery of using it on a client with very fine processed hair, and for that I’ll stick to my very wide-toothed comb. But otherwise, I’m very happy with this brush.
New Trends in Hair Color
by CurlStylist on Monday, June 7th, 2010
Enjoy this brief wrapup of a couple new coloring processes.
Matrix’ Luminous Match Tool
The Luminous Match Tool is designed to be used with Matrix’s Dream.Age SOCOLOR (above)
It’s no secret great haircolor starts with a great consultation, but due to the fact that there are no standards for consultations, they aren’t always great. Recognizing this, Matrix created the Luminous Match Tool—a device colorists can use to critique tone for optimal color formulation. Matrix artistic color director Patrick McIvor uses the tool in his color studios (patrick mcivor color studio and studio two) to create multi-reflective personalized haircolor for guests.
“Have you ever seen someone with vibrant, shiny, multi-dimensional haircolor, but it doesn’t look good on them? It’s probably the wrong tone. People are divided into warm and cool tone categories, but the problem is, determining tone can be subjective and most people have features that are a mix of warm and cool tones. The trick is to critique tone properly and use a color with the correct tone. The Luminous Match Tool gives colorists a reference when critiquing hair, skin and eye tone, standardizing the process into four simple steps, ” explains McIvor.
1. Determine natural level and tone of hair, including the percentage of gray.
2. Critique skin tone by matching the color swatches to the inside of the forearm where skin is not exposed to sun or makeup.
3. Establish tone of eyes by matching to either warm or cool chart.
4. Choose color.
“Most people’s features are not universally warm or cool - The Luminous Match Tool advises colorists to go with the majority (2 out of the three). For instance, if someone has cool hair, warm skin and warm eyes, they would look better in a warmer haircolor. The Luminous Match Tool also allows colorists to stay focused on their guest and not a celebrity picture that a person has brought, which has nothing to do with their personal features, hair or tone. It also validates the colorist’s haircolor choice for the guest,” he adds.
The Luminous Tool is designed to use with new Matrix SOCOLOR Dream.Age—a richly pigmented, multi-reflective color with 100% gray coverage that is balanced with tonal richness.
Blond from Wella
Blondes are in high demand because the color rarely occurs in nature and correlates with youthfulness, and now Wella Professionals is making sure the most desirable hair color is obtainable for every woman with its two newest color services:
Award-winning Blondor lightener - Goes beyond an ordinary lightener and provides a full range of specialist products in an unsurpassed spectrum on blonde shades, from subtle highlights to a striking, cool all-over blonde
New Koleston Perfect Special Blondes - Specially formulated to balance the amount of lightening and color deposition, it provides superior high-lift blonde with unsurpassed smoothness and gentle results to preserve the condition of hair
Leading colorists choose Wella Professionals’ award-winning Blondor lightener and new Koleston Perfect Special Blondes permanent color because they allow clients to achieve the entire spectrum of blonde shades, from warm to cool tones. Also, because these products deliver high-lift color with gentle results, the condition of hair stays healthy and shiny!
Tip from Philip Pelusi
Master stylist Philip Pelusi suggests we remind clients to look for hair conditioning and styling products that contain UV absorbers. These products will help filter the sun’s rays to help protect clients’ beautiful haircolor from UV damage. As with sunscreens, these products should be applied before sun exposure and it is also a good idea to wet the hair throughout the day to help prevent moisture loss.
It is also a good idea to make repeat applications throughout the day, as SPF products are known to lose their effectiveness due to UV exposure. Due to the need to repeat this application, a weightless, non-greasy product should be used that detangles and helps control texture and eliminate frizz, such as Pelusi’s Tela Beauty Organics Guardian SPF-18.
Stylists from Patrick McIvor Color Studio Share Top Retailing Tips
by Staff on Monday, December 7th, 2009
Melissa Goepfert: Whenever I use a product on my guest’s hair, I put it on my station so the client can see it, and I explain what it does and why I’m using it. I also ask what challenges they have when styling their hair. This way, when I offer a product, it’s viewed as a solution to a problem instead of a sales pitch.
Since volume and texture is hot right now, I’m showing guests how to use products like Matrix Amplify Full Body Texturizer to achieve mass and interest. It really helps soft, finer hair get big without weighing it down. Thermal tools are being used more now to create volume and texture, so I recommend Matrix Vavoom Gold Heat Iron-In Control Protective Dry Mist to protect hair from getting damaged from the constant heat—this mist also holds the volume and adds shine.
Nathan Rosenkranz: Instead of asking the usual, “Do you need anything today?” which can easily be replied with a negative, I present the question in a more accommodating way, such as, “What do you need today?” This prompts guests to think about what they actually need instead of going on the defense about purchasing.
Krista Beahm: Start by planting a seed during the consultation. Ask them what their expectations are for the appointment and offer products that meet their needs. This allows them to contemplate the purchase during the service. Then, use what you have recommended on them and explain tips/techniques for using the products. After the service, walk the guest to the front desk and place 2-3 of the products on the counter and refresh their memory about what they do and how they are used. My top retailing products are Matrix Colorcarethérapie Shampoo and Conditioner—color guests are always looking for ways to protect and maintain their color—and Matrix Rejuvathérapie Age Rejuvenating Shampoo and Conditioner—guests are always looking for good products to restore strength and add shine.
Lisa Grealish: Introducing guests to the newest products on the market makes them feel like they are getting something first… getting the inside scoop. It’s even better when you can highlight benefits of the product, such as Matrix Biolage Colorcarethérapie Delicate Care Shampoo being sulfate-free and the Conditioner being paraben and silicone-free.
Hollywood Hair Technique
by Staff on Monday, August 10th, 2009
With long hair being the norm, women have started to spice it up by wearing it differently. Instead of putting it up, many are opting to get creative and wear their long locks down for special occasions. Nathan Rosenkranz from Patrick Mcivor Color Studio is inspired by old Hollywood movie starlets and shares with us a technique for making long hair glamorous this holiday season.
“Similar to today, most old Hollywood actresses had long hair, and if you look back, you will see that their hair was styled in so many different glamorous ways. Pay homage to Hollywood glamour this holiday season and wear long hair down with soft curl, texture or finger — think Veronica Lake,” explains Rosenkranz.
Hollywood Hair Technique
- Make a deep side part and blow-dry hair straight with a medium size round brush.
- Set hair with medium sized Velcro rollers on the sides and back of the head. Make sure to roll the hair on top of the head into the top roller on the sides, this will reduce volume at the crown. Also take care not to clip rollers to head, let them sit off the scalp, which will also help reduce curl/volume at the base of the hair shaft.
- Spray with Matrix Biolage Freeze Fix Hair Spray and let set for 10 minutes.
- Gently remove the rollers and smooth hair with a cushion brush, make sure to keep the waves uniform and loose.
- Spray again with Matrix Biolage Freeze Fix Hair Spray for long lasting hold.