IN THE SALON INDUSTRY, there are two types of people— those who say they can do textured hair and the select group of stylists that specialize in texture hair. Cesar Ramirez, the newest Mizani celebrity stylist and our cover artist, is definitely a member of the latter. Having grown up amidst hairspray and rollers in his family’s small hair salon, the Puerto Rican curl guru knows his way around a diverse clientele base.
Ramirez has trained with some of the beauty industry’s top stylists, and his a-list looks have been featured on shows including Celebrity Apprentice, All About Aubrey, and Lala’s Full Court Life. He also offers his magic to a long list of celebrities (Beyoncé, Jennifer Hudson, Demi Lovato, Ciara, Adrienne Bailon and Rita Ora). But beyond Ramirez’s celebrity work, his unique, artistic approach has graced the runways at Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week and have adorned the pages of everything from Vogue and Harper’s Bazar to GQ and Latina Magazine.
With a following of more than 30,000 on Instagram alone (@cesar4styles), it comes as no surprise that the inspiration for this shoot came from social media. While researching, Ramirez found that the super-photoshopped hair images on Pinterest weren’t receiving a lot of attention. Instead, it was the shots of everyday clients and selfies of girls with beautiful hair that were trending. “We wanted to create a ‘real’ feel to the collection; that attracted consumers to see what Mizani can do,” Ramirez says. Mizani products were used on set at the shoot—including the recently released Fiberfyl treatment. “Fiberyfyl is a new strengthening treatment with breakthrough Filloxane technology; a strand-by-strand restorer that fills in weak area of the hair,” Ramirez says. “Traditionally, protein treatments are used for strength, which can result in the hair feeling hard or brittle. Fiberfyl maintains the hair’s pliability and softness.” Since models are constantly on set, the hair takes a beating, so using the Fiberfyl system set us up for success.” With New York City as his backdrop, Ramirez was able to successfully capture the understated cool that every curly girl craves. “Textured hair can be a challenge, but it can also be exciting when you realize the beautiful fabric that you are working with,” he says. “When you successfully achieve the perfect shape and style, it’s so fulfilling.”
“For the first time ever, Oprah’s appearing on the September cover of O without blow-drying or straightening her hair,” announced the Oprah empire on the website of O Magazine, in which each issue features its founder as the covergirl. “She says that wearing her hair naturally as she often does on weekends and on vacation makes her feel unencumbered.”
Not new to the makeover method of reenergizing your self-image, Oprah says that all makeovers are not created equal. The best, according to her statement, are those that resonate with how you already think and feel about yourself. “The only way to real transformation is through the mind,” says the queen of self-actualization.
While Oprah’s ‘do is au naturale except for, from our eye, an expertly blended product cocktail another September magazine cover display of afro-esque hair cannot boast the same. Lady Gaga lands atop this month’s Vogue brightened by a platinum halo of hair designed by celeb stylist Grace Coddington. While the haute-texture look suits her, this is one time the Lady cannot claim she was “born this way.”
In the old days, the last thing a curly-haired client needed in her tool drawer was a curling iron. New days are here! Specialty curling irons represent the hottest trend for curlies looking for an easy way to shape coil chaos into orderly fabulosity.
Among the new irons hitting the marketplace is the Bio Ionic StyleWinder with a rotating barrel that eliminates the need to turn the iron over and over. Instead, a “clamp, wrap and roll” maneuver ends wrist strain while creating perfect curls, waves and spirals.
Height is happening! With male manes growing fuller this season, texturizing products and cutting techniques are a good bet for impressing your guy clients. Show them how to mix hair product cocktails to customize their look with anything from a light touch to a mighty mountain of texture.
New research indicates that curly clients are loving their texture and hungry to keep the conversation going.
Did you know that 65 percent of people with wavy hair straighten it at least sometimes? But that key word wavy means just what it says. Be careful not to apply wavy-haired habits to those of kinky-curly clients, more than half of whom choose to go “natural” all of the time.
“You cannot look at all textured clients as one category,” cautions Michelle Breyer, president of TextureMediaInc. “There are different needs and desires depending on their texture, because not all texture is created equal! If you want to be a well-rounded texture stylist, you must understand that there’s more than one type of texture client.”
Recent research also indicates that texture clients are continually looking for new options. Nearly half of curly clients who are happy with their product of choice still have an eye out for the next great development. That nonstop interest in their texture keeps the conversation open for you to introduce them to new products and tools even after you’ve “solved” their hair issues. The two major reasons texture clients believe that people are more accepting of their curls today vs. five years ago are that stylists and products are increasingly addressing their needs, and that people are more appreciative of their own natural beauty.
Perhaps the best news from the market research department is that a small minority (only two percent) of textured clients say they wish they had straight hair. Today’s clients either fully embrace their curl or admit to good days and bad days. As you become more fully educated about texture and skilled at styling it, you’ll help make every day a day that your curly clients are grateful for the beautiful texture that nature provided.
For training in curly hairdressing as well as more information on smoothing techniques, mark your calendar for March 3-5, 2013, when America’s Beauty Show will feature exciting main stage presentations of Texture Live!, sponsored by MODERN SALON and TextureMediaInc.com. Watch demonstrations of the latest products and most advanced techniques to arm yourself with expertise to become the go-to professional for textured clients.
Curls and Water Do Mix!
On a Saturday in June during Premiere Orlando, hundreds of curlies and stylists from all over the Southeast flocked to the pool at the Omni Hotel and Resort in Orlando for an afternoon of pool-tastic, curl-centric fun at the 2nd Annual Curly Pool Party. The formal pool was transformed into a colorful and luxuriant afternoon soiree filled with swimming, styling demonstrations and pina ”curladas.”
Sponsored by TextureMedia and Modern Salon Media, the curl celebration showcased such brands as Ouidad and Amika, which each set up shop in their own private cabanas to teach people how to work with their clients’ texture and their own!
“It’s so hard to deal with my curls in this humidity,” lamented one attendee who drove in from Tampa. “I never know how to protect them when I go swimming. But after coming here, I’m ready for summer! Bring on the water and the heat!”
Learn how to manage unruly locks with these texture-specific classes that will keep you up-to- date on techniques to tame tame and control your clients’ curls for months.
LOOK AND LEARN
This two-hour program is conducted by a Simply Smooth texture manager who will demonstrate the Simply Smooth keratin and maintenance line on a mannequin. Attendees observe the process of application, drying and curing with Simply Smooth Keratin (original), Xtend Color Lock and Touch of Keratin, with opportunity for Q & A.
Attendees will learn the art of texture management and how to increase revenue with all of Simply Smooth’s keratin products. The company also offers three-hour sessions to achieve Simply Smooth certification.
Where: CosmoProf and Armstrong-McCall stores in U.S. cities.
When: Various Mondays. Contact your sales rep.
CHI ENVIRO AMERICAN SMOOTHING CLASS
As a safe alternative to traditional, harsh straightening treatments, the CHI Enviro American Smoothing Treatment infuses hair with amino acids, proteins, silk and pearl. The process improves the condition, shine and smoothness of unruly hair. Results typically last up to four months.
Purchase of some specially marked CHI items earns salons the opportunity to hold this class free as an in-salon class.
The GK Experience covers GK Hair’s Oil Hair Color and The Best Juvexin Treatment & Hair Taming Systems. Stay on in Florida and attend the two-day GK Hair Collection Cutting class the following week.
Where: Dania Beach, Florida at the Sheraton (GK Experience) and at Hyatt Place (Collection Cutting)
When: September 17, 9am-1pm (GK Experience), and September 24-25, 10am-5pm (Collection Cutting)
Be the first to hear the buzz about texture on the runway! Follow ModernSalon.com and NaturallyCurly.com for complete curly coverage of New York Fashion Week the second week of September, previewing next spring’s hottest runway looks.
Last Saturday, June 2nd, NaturallyCurly hosted the 2nd Annual Curly Pool Party where hundreds of stylists and NaturallyCurly community members enjoyed an afternoon soiree of poolside styling demonstrations by Amika, Shea Moisture, URCurly and Ouidad.
As the event Media Partner, Modern Salon was on hand to capture the event. Check out this video of Modern Salon’s Maggie Mulhern interviewing CurlStylist’s own Michelle Breyer.
America’s Beauty Show was underway and thousands of stylist and salon owners gather to expand their knowledge, see top stylist and enjoy the entire “show” experience. Sunday March 13th was a huge day at ABS as it was the second annual “Texture” programming.
Texture! returned to ABS this year! This one-of-a kind free event showcased leading texture experts and educators in an intimate, interactive forum which included live hair demos. Texture! was hosted by NaturallyCurly.com founder Michelle Breyer and Modern Salon’s Editor-in-Chief Laurel Nelson, highlights of the event included:
Texture Trends: Fashion, Entertainment and Pop Culture Influences
Texture Cut, Color and Style: How-To Demos and Advice
Texture Opportunities: Make More Money Serving Curly Clients
Texture for Men: What’s New for Curly Guys?
Texture Q&A: Our experts, your questions!
Attendees were able to meet and greet the leading texture educators and brand leaders. The panel included the following:
John Benedetto, Director of Education for GK Hair: John has over 25 years of experience in the salon industry. In his prior role as Aveda’s Director of Global Hair Color Education, John was instrumental in creating Aveda’s Brands of Full Spectrum Hair Color and creating techniques for Aveda Collections at Video and Photo Shoots.
Shari Harbinger, “The Go To Curl Girl”: In her double-duty role as Director of Education for DevaConcepts and Color Director for Devachan Salon and Departure Lounge, Shari has both a loyal group of clients that rely on her for shiny, vibrant shades that are as modern as they are beautiful, and an enormous following in the salon industry for her eponymous training sessions.
Ouidad, the “Queen of Curl”: She is an internationally recognized stylist, salon owner mother, author and global educator. In 1984, as the pioneer of the curly hair industry, she opened the first salon in the country to cater exclusively to curly hair. Since then her trademarked cutting and styling techniques and specialized line of award winning products, have instilled confidence in curly and wavy haired people everywhere.
Anthony Dickey: He has spent the better part of his styling career—both on set and in the salon—trying to dispel the myth among women with kinky, curly and wavy hair that their texture is problematic or unruly. Touted as a “Style Svengali” by the New York Times, Dickey has mastered the mystery of textured hair to create iconic hair styles for designers, advertisers, photographers and celebrities alike.
Veronique Morrison: As Director of Education for MIZANI, a division of L’Oreal, USA, Veronique creates and manages the production of all technical curriculum, training programs, and creative trend presentations for a national salon audience.
Erica Grabczyk: American Crew’s International All-Star Erica Grabczyk certainly knows how to talk and cut men’s hair at the same time. She swiftly became the Director of Education at Groom Salon in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, specializing in male-specific design. Erica is top-rated in the City of Milwaukee for men’s hair (Milwaukee Magazine), having worked at Groom since 1999 as both a Lead and now Master Stylist. She trains nationally and internationally as an American Crew International All-Star Educator.
Ana Daniel, Artistic Director & Educator for Ouidad: This Dominican Republic native has spent several years working with Ouidad and loves ensuring that her clients not only have a style they love but also have the information they need to care for their curls at home. Ana’s work has appeared on the pages of many magazines and on the heads of numerous celebrities.
By all appearances, fall 2010 will go down in fashion history as “the season of texture.” Dozens of notable fashion designers have eschewed straight strands, embracing instead all manner of curls, coils, crimps, waves and teased clouds of hair on their catwalks.
On the West Coast, style setters are also advancing the texture trend. Nearly every red carpet is adorned with sexy, romantic textures, made popular by stars like Taylor Swift, Miley Cyrus, Kate Hudson, Charlize Theron and Beyonce.
And regardless of whether clients are starting out with natural curl, wave or pin-straight strands, everyone has texture options this season!
Natural Curl: Embrace and Refine
“Curly hair is coming into its own,” says Titi Branch, co-owner of Miss Jessie’s Products and Salon in New York. “Twenty years ago, we wouldn’t even be talking about curly hair because people straightened their curls.
“Now, women want to embrace their natural, healthy curl. Michelle Obama even wore curls to a state dinner recently— for her to do so really validates the beauty of the look.”
But curly can also be high maintenance, admits Branch, which is why the current trend is a smoother, looser curl pattern.
“This allows a woman to keep her curl,” she explains, “but refine it.” At Miss Jessie’s, this elongated curl is achieved with the salon’s proprietary “Silkener” service. The technique involves a sodium hydroxide relaxer and a method of manipulation that stretches, yet doesn’t straighten, the hair.
“The result,” says Branch, “is hair that behaves like natural hair when it’s wet—before it dries and shrinks. It’s wash and go—it cuts styling time in half.” To support natural curls, Branch recommends Miss Jessie’s Curly Pudding treatment—a perennial favorite that combines macadamia and almond oil, aloe and shea butter for shine, plumping and moisture.
Curl definition is also imperative for Shawna Parvin’s curly clients, and the most modern approach, says the Aquage educator, NAHA 2009 Texture Winner and 2010 Hairstylist of the Year nominee, is to mix it up—random curl sizes, directions and even amounts of definition. “I’m telling my clients to start with a gel on damp hair,” she says, and comb it through scalp to ends. “Then wind sections of varying sizes, in every direction, so they look like little snakes. Don’t touch the hair until it’s completely dry, then move it around and even pull a few random pieces apart so there’s some fuzz mixed in with the curl. That’s what keeps curl from looking like the ’80s.”
Options are important for women with any texture, and naturally curly clients will always want blowouts for occasions when their hair must look polished, says Dickey, owner of New York’s Hair Rules Salon and hair products company. What makes blowouts look fresh this season, he says, is a voluminous, soft, Mad Men-inspired look, with lots of flattering movement around the face.
“Bone straight doesn’t work for most women,” he comments. “Waves and curls look softer on anyone—it’s ‘instant youth.’”
Making Waves—Keep it Raw
When it comes to creating curls and waves, the perfectly formed curls are evolving into a rougher, more raw-edged texture, says Chad Seale of Salt Lake City, another 2010 NAHA Texture finalist.
“Waves will be more vertical, looser, less constructed than we’ve seen in past seasons,” agrees Darby Shields, Associate Artistic Director of ISO International.
When it comes to these vertical waves, there’s also a new silhouette worth noting, adds Seale, namely, a flatter crown with more volume through the midlengths and ends. Seale loves this texture and shape on shorter-length bobs—actress Charlize Theron has been seen sporting the look. To permanently create this casual texture on tightly curly hair, Shields steers clients to the ISO Maintamer.
“This formula gives stylists plenty of control,” she explains. “Leave it on for five minutes, and it eliminates frizz but maintains the curl pattern. Leave it on for 30 minutes and it straightens more completely.”
To produce loose, ropey, “Gisele” texture with a thermal iron, Shields first mists strands with a combination of ISO Color Preserve Thermal Shield Spray and Daily Shape Working Spray, then wraps sections of hair vertically around the outside of a curling iron, simultaneously twisting each section onto itself like a rope. Once the hair cools completely, she gently releases the twists, revealing “a spiral, vertical wave with lots of internal torque.”
The flat iron is another excellent tool for creating this type of natural-looking body and texture. Many of today’s irons feature beveled plates, which give them the versatility to straighten and shape hair. One of Lina Shamoun’s favorite strategies is to divide hair into thin, one-inch sections, place the flatiron at the root, wind the section once around the iron and draw the tool through to the ends.
“When you release it, the hair will fall into a soft, flowing wave,” she explains.
The beach trend—textured, separated, sea-tossed strands—has generated a number of beach spray products that are great for supporting these looks or for use as stand-alone body boosters.
Color for Curl
With celebrities like Sarah Jessica Parker and Jennifer Aniston leading the way, the hottest hair color trend of the moment is the graduated “I spent last month on the beach and now it’s growing out” effect. Characterized by deeper roots and lighter midshafts and ends, it’s a deliberate technique to approximate “vacation regrowth.” The look is perfect for the twists and turns of textured hair, as long as the technique is done correctly.
Seale believes baliage is the best strategy—this freehand hair-painting method allows the colorist to place the tint exactly where the sun would kiss each strand, namely, on the rounds and fullest parts of each curl and in an unstructured fashion.
“So if your client wears her hair curly,” Seale advises, “don’t blow her hair straight and do a color weave. You’ll get six different colors on one curl and that doesn’t work.”
Additionally, says Seale, opt for high-lift permanent colors when baliaging curls, rather than bleach. “Bleach tends to swell the hair and cause it to become dryer,” he believes.
This hair type is already susceptible to dryness, he adds, so it’s better to use hair color that tends to impart less damage. Shields agrees that baliage is the best way to achieve the dark-to-light look, and advises stylists to work with fairly large sections. “Apply your color to each section randomly,” she suggests. “And for your application pattern, let the trajectory of the waves guide you—dropping off of the crown. Try some ‘peek-a-boo’ foils under the surface, too.
“All of this will create a purposeful, grown-out look, which clients today love since it’s chic and it allows them to stretch their retouching dollars!”
The “Academy Awards of hairstyling” as some would call it, this year’s NAHA contest rallied hairstylists from around the continent for one night of creativity and innovation.
The award ceremony was held July 18 in Las Vegas, and more than 700 professionals entered the contest’s 13 categories, ranging from Master Stylist and Student Hairstylist, to Avant-Garde, Salon Design, Texture & Makeup Artist.
The contest showcased these categories in the form of high-profile photographs, and were judged based on criteria including concept, demonstration of skill, and harmony between photographer’s execution and stylist’s creativity.
This year’s NAHA judges included industry leaders such as Sam Brocato, Mary Brunetti, Tabatha Coffey, Ruth Roche, Sally Hershberger and Nick Arrojo.
Congratulations to the winners of this year’s North American Hairstyling Awards!
Wendy and Oscar Bond
Upper Montclair, NJ
Photographer: Trevor Owsley
Hairstylist of the Year
Photographer: Ara Sassoonian
Photographer: Ara Sassoonian
Photographer: Tony Maesto
Seong Hee Park
New York, NY
Photographer: Hyuna Shin
Photographer: Roberto Ligresti
Photographer: Ara Sassoonian
Photographer: Ara Sassoonian
New York, NY
Photographer: Joseph Cartright
Vasken Demirjian Salon
White Plains, NY
Photographer: Stan Wan
New York, NY
Shawn Trujillo and Angie Katsanevas
Salt Lake City, UT
Photographer: Douglas Carter
The winners for this year were announced. Check them out here.
When Mahisha Dellinger of CURLS signed on as a sponsor this year for the 2010 North American Hairstyling Awards, it was a no-brainer.
“NAHA is truly the pulse of American stylist’s artistry at its best,” says Dellinger.
CURLS joins some of the biggest names in the business—RUSK, Modern Salon, KMS California, Aquage, Joico, Pureology, to name a few—in supporting the annual competition, which has become a true pinnacle of career achievement for stylists. Many consider it the Academy Awards of the beauty industry.
This year’s NAHA awards will be presented at 6:30 p.m. July 18 at the Mandalay Bay Resort in Las Vegas, Nev.
NAHAs are given in 13 categories, including Master Stylist, Hairstylist of the Year, Editorial Stylist, Student Hairstylist, Avant-Garde, Contemporary Classic, Fashion Foward, Haircolor, Salon Team, Salon Design, Texture and Makeup Artist.
A favorite category for Dellinger, and many stylists who focus on waves, curls and kinks, is the Texture category, which draws some of the most creative and innovative entries. “Those contestants are going to receive extra CURLS love,” says Dellinger.
This year, the NAHAs will also salute two professionals who have had a significant impact on the industry. The Lifetime Achievement Award will be presented to Beth Minardi, an internationally renowned haircolor specialist, educator and salon owner. Freferic Holzberger, an entrepreneur, educator and philanthropist, will be inducted into the NAHA Hall of Leaders.
This year’s NAHAs boasted a record-setting number of entries. More than 700 beauty professionals entered—up 18 percent from 2009 and a 35 percent increase from 2008. This is a testament to the growing prestige of the NAHAs, and the impact they can have on a stylists’ career.
This year’s NAHA judges include industry leaders such as Tabatha Coffey, Ruth Roche, Nick Arrojo, Mary Brunetti, Sally Hershberger and Sam Brocato.
Do you wish more stylists took an interest in working with waves, curls and kinks? We do, too.
That’s why the NaturallyCurly and CurlStylist teams were thrilled to team up with Modern Salon to create the first venture of its kind: Texture! Texture! includes information for the consumer and the professional, both online and in a special supplement to provide the latest information on how to work with texture.
Our collaboration launches with a special supplement in the February issue of Modern Salon, as well as with continuous content on NaturallyCurly.com, CurlStylist.com and ModernSalon.com. We also are coordinating a live event at America’s Beauty Show on March 28 showcasing some of the top curl experts in the country, including Ouidad, Hair Rules’ Anthony Dickey, Jonathan Torch from Curly Hair Solutions, Titi and Miko Branch from Miss Jessie’s and Mahisha Dellinger from CURLS.
The content is rich in tips, insights and inspiration to help stylists best serve clients with curly hair, including innovative products, resources and education to help stylists grow their texture business.
Both Modern Salon and NaturallyCurly believe texture is a trend that’s here to stay.
NaturallyCurly.com recently surveyed our members about stylists’ knowledge in working with curly or textured hair. Then, MODERN SALON asked stylists similar questions for comparison. Here’s what “she said” and “you said.”
Consumer:Do you consider your stylist a curl expert? 68% yes Stylist:Do you consider yourself a curl expert? 60% yes
Consumer:Do you know if your stylist has had special curl training? 58% no Stylist:Do you have special curl training? 66% no
Consumer:Does your stylist provide training on how to style your hair? 65% yes Stylist:Do you provide curly hair clients with advice on how to style their hair? 98% yes
Consumer:Do you look to your stylist for product recommendations? 62% yes Stylist:Do you recommend special products to clients with curly hair? 98% yes
Consumer:56% visit the salon every 6-12 weeks (more frequently than national average). Stylist:The majority report that 20% - 50% of their clientele has curly hair (a significant market share).