Posts Tagged ‘miss jessie’s’

Texture: The Season of Texture!

by Modern Salon on Wednesday, September 1st, 2010

Logo

Learn more about Texture!, a collaboration between CurlStylist, NaturallyCurly and Modern Salon

By all appearances, fall 2010 will go down in fashion history as “the season of texture.” Dozens of notable fashion designers have eschewed straight strands, embracing instead all manner of curls, coils, crimps, waves and teased clouds of hair on their catwalks.

Miley Cyrus

Miley Cyrus






On the West Coast, style setters are also advancing the texture trend. Nearly every red carpet is adorned with sexy, romantic textures, made popular by stars like Taylor Swift, Miley Cyrus, Kate Hudson, Charlize Theron and Beyonce.

“Clients today are requesting anything but flat hair,” says Lina Shamoun, a 2010 North American Hairstyling Awards Texture Finalist from Kitchener, Ontario.

And regardless of whether clients are starting out with natural curl, wave or pin-straight strands, everyone has texture options this season!

Natural Curl: Embrace and Refine

“Curly hair is coming into its own,” says Titi Branch, co-owner of Miss Jessie’s Products and Salon in New York. “Twenty years ago, we wouldn’t even be talking about curly hair because people straightened their curls.

Michelle Obama

Michelle Obama

“Now, women want to embrace their natural, healthy curl. Michelle Obama even wore curls to a state dinner recently— for her to do so really validates the beauty of the look.”

But curly can also be high maintenance, admits Branch, which is why the current trend is a smoother, looser curl pattern.

“This allows a woman to keep her curl,” she explains, “but refine it.” At Miss Jessie’s, this elongated curl is achieved with the salon’s proprietary “Silkener” service. The technique involves a sodium hydroxide relaxer and a method of manipulation that stretches, yet doesn’t straighten, the hair.

“The result,” says Branch, “is hair that behaves like natural hair when it’s wet—before it dries and shrinks. It’s wash and go—it cuts styling time in half.” To support natural curls, Branch recommends Miss Jessie’s Curly Pudding treatment—a perennial favorite that combines macadamia and almond oil, aloe and shea butter for shine, plumping and moisture.

Curl definition is also imperative for Shawna Parvin’s curly clients, and the most modern approach, says the Aquage educator, NAHA 2009 Texture Winner and 2010 Hairstylist of the Year nominee, is to mix it up—random curl sizes, directions and even amounts of definition. “I’m telling my clients to start with a gel on damp hair,” she says, and comb it through scalp to ends. “Then wind sections of varying sizes, in every direction, so they look like little snakes. Don’t touch the hair until it’s completely dry, then move it around and even pull a few random pieces apart so there’s some fuzz mixed in with the curl. That’s what keeps curl from looking like the ’80s.”

Options are important for women with any texture, and naturally curly clients will always want blowouts for occasions when their hair must look polished, says Dickey, owner of New York’s Hair Rules Salon and hair products company. What makes blowouts look fresh this season, he says, is a voluminous, soft, Mad Men-inspired look, with lots of flattering movement around the face.

“Bone straight doesn’t work for most women,” he comments. “Waves and curls look softer on anyone—it’s ‘instant youth.’”

Making Waves—Keep it Raw

When it comes to creating curls and waves, the perfectly formed curls are evolving into a rougher, more raw-edged texture, says Chad Seale of Salt Lake City, another 2010 NAHA Texture finalist.

“Waves will be more vertical, looser, less constructed than we’ve seen in past seasons,” agrees Darby Shields, Associate Artistic Director of ISO International.

Wavy Hair

When it comes to these vertical waves, there’s also a new silhouette worth noting, adds Seale, namely, a flatter crown with more volume through the midlengths and ends. Seale loves this texture and shape on shorter-length bobs—actress Charlize Theron has been seen sporting the look. To permanently create this casual texture on tightly curly hair, Shields steers clients to the ISO Maintamer.

“This formula gives stylists plenty of control,” she explains. “Leave it on for five minutes, and it eliminates frizz but maintains the curl pattern. Leave it on for 30 minutes and it straightens more completely.”

To produce loose, ropey, “Gisele” texture with a thermal iron, Shields first mists strands with a combination of ISO Color Preserve Thermal Shield Spray and Daily Shape Working Spray, then wraps sections of hair vertically around the outside of a curling iron, simultaneously twisting each section onto itself like a rope. Once the hair cools completely, she gently releases the twists, revealing “a spiral, vertical wave with lots of internal torque.”

The flat iron is another excellent tool for creating this type of natural-looking body and texture. Many of today’s irons feature beveled plates, which give them the versatility to straighten and shape hair. One of Lina Shamoun’s favorite strategies is to divide hair into thin, one-inch sections, place the flatiron at the root, wind the section once around the iron and draw the tool through to the ends.

“When you release it, the hair will fall into a soft, flowing wave,” she explains.

The beach trend—textured, separated, sea-tossed strands—has generated a number of beach spray products that are great for supporting these looks or for use as stand-alone body boosters.

Color for Curl

With celebrities like Sarah Jessica Parker and Jennifer Aniston leading the way, the hottest hair color trend of the moment is the graduated “I spent last month on the beach and now it’s growing out” effect. Characterized by deeper roots and lighter midshafts and ends, it’s a deliberate technique to approximate “vacation regrowth.” The look is perfect for the twists and turns of textured hair, as long as the technique is done correctly.

Seale believes baliage is the best strategy—this freehand hair-painting method allows the colorist to place the tint exactly where the sun would kiss each strand, namely, on the rounds and fullest parts of each curl and in an unstructured fashion.

“So if your client wears her hair curly,” Seale advises, “don’t blow her hair straight and do a color weave. You’ll get six different colors on one curl and that doesn’t work.”

Additionally, says Seale, opt for high-lift permanent colors when baliaging curls, rather than bleach. “Bleach tends to swell the hair and cause it to become dryer,” he believes.

This hair type is already susceptible to dryness, he adds, so it’s better to use hair color that tends to impart less damage. Shields agrees that baliage is the best way to achieve the dark-to-light look, and advises stylists to work with fairly large sections. “Apply your color to each section randomly,” she suggests. “And for your application pattern, let the trajectory of the waves guide you—dropping off of the crown. Try some ‘peek-a-boo’ foils under the surface, too.

“All of this will create a purposeful, grown-out look, which clients today love since it’s chic and it allows them to stretch their retouching dollars!”

Come Celebrate Texture! With the Leaders and Innovators of the Category

by CurlStylist on Monday, March 15th, 2010

Follow CurlStylist on Twitter and Become a Fan on Facebook for special updates on ABS.

CurlStylist, NaturallyCurly and Modern Salon are teaming up to produce one of the hottest programming events at ABS!

America’s Beauty Show is one of the world’s premiere events for stylists, taking place March 27-29 at McCormick Place in Chicago. And the Texture! panel is already generating a lot of buzz and promises to be a sellout.

Here’s the scoop on the event!

Sunday, March 28
1:00 - 4:30 p.m. #716
Admission is FREE, but space is limited!
Registration required

Pioneer Panel Discussion and Q&A
This focused event brings together Texture! pioneers for a panel discussion and Q&A on trends, techniques and education.

Moderators
Laurel Smoke, MODERN SALON Editor
Michelle Breyer, NaturallyCurly.com co-founder

Panelists

  • Ouidad: “Queen of Curl,” a pioneer in the curly world who opened the world’s first salon 26 years ago devoted to curly hair and author of “Curl Talk”
  • Jonathan Torch Jonathan Torch, founder of Toronto’s Curly Hair Institute, creator of the Curly Hair Solutions line of hair products
  • Anthony Dickey textured hair expert, author of “Hair Rules!: The Ultimate Hair-Care Guide for Women with Kinky, Curly or Wavy Hair,” and creator of the Hair Rules line of products.
  • Miko and Titi Branch creators of Miss Jessie’s line of products and owners of Miss Jessie’s Salon in Brooklyn
  • Devacurl Denis Da Silva, co-founder of the Devachan Salon and creator of the Devacurl line of products
  • KMS California Edwin Johnston
  • Mizani Veronique Morrison, Director of Education

Exclusive Research Findings!
Find out what your clients and peers think about textured hair services, styling treatments and products in a special presentation of research commissioned by MODERN SALON Media and NaturallyCurly.com.

Special Texture! Presentations
CURLS
Ouidad
Mizani
KMS

Texture Tools and Goodies
Special samples, education materials and handouts available first come, first served.


Prizes

CurlStylist will be giving away over $1,500 in prizes at the Texture Panel! Don’t miss out on these great prizes.

All you have to do is drop your business card or fill out a form to WIN 1 of 10 PRIZES! Must be present to win. Only one prize per person.


1st Place Prize: (over $500.00 value)

ShiroShears ($300.00 Value)
• Smart Heat Flat Iron 1″ by Gold N Hot ($80.00 Value)
• Smart Heat Curling Iron by Gold N Hot (variety of sizes) ($50.00 Value)
• Smart Heat Hair Dryer by Gold N Hot ($80.00 Value)
NaturallyCurly.com tote bag
• CurlStylist.com magnet


2nd Place Prize: (over $400.00 value)

ShiroShears ($300.00 Value)
• Smart Heat Hair Dryer by Gold N Hot ($80.00 Value)
• Belson 1-1/4″ Pro AccuSilver Digital Curling Iron ($40.00 Value)
NaturallyCurly.com tote bag
• CurlStylist.com magnet


3rd Place Prize: (over $150.00 value)

• Smart Heat Flat Iron 1″ by Gold N Hot ($80.00 Value)
• Belson 1-1/4″ Pro AccuSilver Digital Curling Iron ($40.00 Value)
NaturallyCurly.com tote bag
• CurlStylist.com magnet


4th-10th Place Prizes: (over $60.00 value)

• Smart Heat Curling Iron by Gold N Hot (variety of sizes) ($50.00 Value)
NaturallyCurly.com tote bag
• CurlStylist.com magnet


Check Out Our Sponsors

  • Mizani
  • Joico
  • Curly Hair Solutions
  • Miss Jessies
  • Ouidad
  • Phytospecific
  • KMS California
  • Pureology
  • Hair Rules
  • CURLS

Celebrate Natural Texture in Austin!

by CurlStylist on Monday, March 8th, 2010

Since October 2009, curlies everywhere have participated in NaturallyCurly.com’s Grow-Out Challenge—a journey of hair transition sponsored by Miss Jessie’s, a hair care collection developed specifically for naturally curly, kinky and wavy hair. The challenge is about to come full circle with our Natural Hair Celebration that not only marks the culmination of the Grow-Out Challenge, but also invites people with all hair types to come and embrace their natural hair’s beauty, no matter the style or texture.

“Our Grow-Out Challenge invited men and women to embark on the sometimes difficult, yet completely rewarding challenge of going natural,” explains Michelle Breyer, co-founder of NaturallyCurly.com. “For six months, participants posted videos and blogged about their experiences of going natural. We’re honoring their courage and dedication with an event that not only celebrates natural hair, but also commends them on their hard work for half the year.”

The Grow-Out Challenge began in October 2009 and will end March 31, 2010. During that time, Miss Jessie’s awarded more than $3,600 worth of products to the participants who showed the most gumption and dedication on this journey of transition. Our members blogged poetically about their transitioning challenges, also submitting pictures and videos. Winners received personalized hair “prescriptions” and Miss Jessie’s products that fit their individual hair needs.

Our Natural Hair Celebration will give attendees useful information from our online community and from a brands that understands your specific hair needs. Sisters, business partners and the founders of Miss Jessie’s, Titi and Miko Branch, will be present at the event to speak, answer questions and perform full demos on five ladies. The event will also include food and refreshments, product sales and talk time with Titi and Miko, as well as the staff of NaturallyCurly.com.

The Natural Hair Celebration will be held on Sunday, April 25, 2010, from 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. at the Avenue Five Institute beauty school in Austin.

Come celebrate your natural texture!

Event Date: Sunday, April 25, 2010
Time: 1-5 p.m.
Location: Avenue Five Institute, 8620 Burnet Road, Austin, Texas
Cost: FREE
RSVP: HairEvent@NaturallyCurly.com

For more information, visit the Natural Hair Celebration details page.

Encourage Your Clients to Join the Grow-Out Challenge

by Gretchen Heber on Monday, October 5th, 2009

Some of your clients may be struggling with the decision to grow out their relaxers and embrace their natural texture. Or they may be part way through the process.

While you can provide the professional tips and advice they need during this challenging process, you might also want to suggest your clients check out NaturallyCurly’s just-launched Miss Jessie’s Grow-Out Challenge.

We invite your clients to come along on this exciting six-month adventure of natural hair. They can share their ups and downs as they transition from relaxed to natural with scores of other NaturallyCurly members. They’ll laugh and cry as they discover, bit by bit, the joy of embracing their natural textures. The journey can be daunting, but with the love and support of you and your clients’ curly sisters, it will be exhilarating and liberating.

Whatever stage your clients are in in their transitioning — thinking about it, just beginning, well into it or fully natural — we welcome their participation.

Titi Branch of Miss Jessie’s offers these tips for stylists working with transitioning clients:

Stylists that are working with transitioning clients for the first time must realize the frustration that this client is experiencing. The frustration lies in the fact that the client is dealing with 2 distinctly different textures of hair on one head. The roots are tight and/or curly and the relaxed ends are straight. Up to the point of doing the big chop, the goal for that client is to do everything in their power to make these two distinctively different textures appear similar. So here are some tips:

  • Do be patient with this client and realize the frustration that they are experiencing. They are coming to you for solutions . Probably the number #1 concern of this client is wondering if their hairstyle will last. For some, the styling may last; for others, you need to explain what the expectations can be.
  • In offering a solution there are a few things that you may want to consider.

    1. Is length an issue? If it is this is a client that may be more willing to deal with having two disparate textures rather than cutting all of the relaxed ends off before there is enough natural texture.

    2. Is this someone with an active lifestyle? Works out a lot? This is a client that may experience more benefit from doing the big chop than having to style two textures constantly.

    3. Breakage is an issue. As a stylist you must understand the importance of deep conditioning treatments like Miss Jessie’s Rapid Recovery and moisturizers like Baby or Curly Buttercreme. If breakage is so severe then cutting the hair may be the only option.

    4. For someone going natural for the first time, they are seeing their hair in a state that they may have not seen in decades or as long as they have been relaxing their hair. Do realize that this client is going to be really reliant upon you to offer suggestions and solutions as their styling time will now be increased at home.

    5. A loyal client. Once you have successfully helped someone transition, she is a client for life!!

Get started today.

Clients Looking for Elongation?
Try Shingling

by admin on Friday, April 17th, 2009

miss jessies shingling

Before shingling, left, and after, right.

Brooklyn-based Miss Jessie’s salon, which works largely with Type 4 clients, has developed a method for achieving more length in this hair type—a method they call “Shingling”.

“We call it ‘Shingling’ because it looks like flat shingles in a brick-layered pattern,” say the salon’s founders, sisters Miko and Titi Branch. “You can achieve maxiumum curl definition and elongation if you capture the hair in the wet stage.”

It’s great for providing clients a smooth, shiny, elongated and controlled curl.


Tools Needed

  • Curly Pudding™.
  • Spray Bottle for rewetting the hair.
  • Butterfly clips used for sectioning the hair.
  • Comb for parting the hair.
  • Flat paddle brush for detangling.

Step 1

Step 1

Step 1

Natural hair before Shingling™.


Step 2

Step 2

Step 2

Apply a lid full of Curly Pudding™ all over to dampen hair.


Step 3

Step 3

Step 3

Part ear to ear sections and smooth on a small amount.


Step 4

Step 4

Step 4

Comb Curly Pudding™ through from root to end.


Step 5

Step 5

Step 5

Observe the smooth shingle.


Step 6

Step 6

Step 6

Work your way up from the nape to the front of the head.


Step 7

Step 7

Step 7

Dry under a hooded dryer or air-dry.


Step 8

Step 8

Step 8

After fully dried take a small section and stretch out with a blowdryer.


Step 9

Step 9

Step 9

Beautiful!

More Curly Salons
Springing Up

by Michelle Breyer on Tuesday, April 7th, 2009

spirals

Curltopia salon

Last May, Curltopia opened in Smyrna, Ga. as a salon where “it’s all about making peace with your hair.”

“It’s a curl revolution led by girls who have fought our curls forever,” says Curltopia co-owner Tricia Joyner. “We specialize in very awesome product and color/cutting/styling technique for ALL hair — whether you’ve always embraced your twists and coils, you’re just now transitioning, you’d like to transform your kinks to curls, or if you like to keep your curlies straight.”

Thanks to salons like Curltopia — and the growing market for stylists who specialize in texture — the number of salons focusing on curls and kinks is on the rise.

“The vast majority of the population doesn’t have straight hair,” says Titi Branch of Miss Jessies’s Salon in Brooklyn, which specializes in curly hair. “I don’t know how we’ve gotten along this long without more people specializing in curly hair.”

Although New York has several salons focusing on curly hair, curly headed men and women in other parts of the country often found it more difficult to find a stylist versed in the ways of ringlets and coils.

In some cases, it may be one stylist within a salon who specializes in curly hair. In others, the salon may choose to be trained and certified by well-known curl establishments like Ouidad, Devachan Salon or Christo, and to carry their product lines. A growing number of large brands, including Bumble and bumble and Redken, also are providing more intensive training and new products for the curly market. And in some cases, stylists are opening their own curl-centric salons, using their own experience and techniques and carrying a range of curly hair products.

spirals

Spirals salon

These include salons like Spirals in Arizona, Batia & Aleeza in Beverly Hills, Calif., Frontenac Salon in St. Louis, Mo. and Curl Jam in Bethesda, Md. Toronto, Ont. alone has such salons as Curl Ambassadors, Jonathan Torch’s Curly Hair Institute and Chiggy’s Touch, which all specialize in curls and kinks.

Four years ago, Toronto curl whiz Jonathan Torch decided to concentrate completely on curls, closing his old salon and opening the Curly Hair Institute.

“With this new salon, I’m putting my name on the door and saying “This is who I am.” says Torch, creator of Curly Hair Solutions. “I’m a curly hair hairdresser and I’m going for it.”

Tonja Chagaris always specialized in cutting curly hair. But the Arizona stylist saw a real void in her market for a salon that specialized in working with all types of curly hair.

“With all the different cultures here, there was no place to go if you had curly hair,” says Chagaris, who four years ago opened Spirals Salon in Tucson, a salon dedicated to curly hair.

“Having naturally curly hair myself, I know it’s so hard to find someone who understands it — how to touch it, how to style it, how to cut it. It is very much an untapped market.”

spirals

Frontenac Salon

Kim Wicks of Frontenac Salon opened her salon 10 years ago, but began focusing on curly hair four years ago. Wicks, a curly herself, became interest in focusing on curls when she saw a Robert Cromeans CD that encouraged stylists to focus on a specialty they have for in the hair business. Around the same time, she discovered the Devacurl line of products.

Now she has four curl specialists with another getting training in New York from Devachan. She says it was a great decision for her — both from a business standpoint and from their ability to help people love their hair.

“There’s a salon on every street, but if you specialize, you set yourself apart,” Wicks says. “Our salon chose to specialize in naturally curly hair. It’s been huge. It’s really helped us through this recession.”

Christo of Christo Fifth Avenue in New York said he is getting a growing number of requests for training and his Curlisto product line from salons around the country interested in growing their curly clientele.

“The reason all these salons are specializing in curly hair is because of demand from their clients,” Christo said. “In the past, people were paranoid to wear their hair curly because they thought it was out of fashion or unprofessional.”

But these days, with more curls in magazines and the movies, curls have gained popularity. People want to work with their natural texture.

“Over the past five to 10 years, there’s been a movement toward texture,” says Branch. “People are letting their hair do what it wants to do. Before it was all about getting your hair to look stick straight. Now, it’s all about encouraging the curl.”

It was Joyner’s curls that inspired sister/stylist Kristen James to become a curly-hair specialist.

“It was a necessity,” Joyner jokes. “She had to learn how to cut curls because of me, and now her forte is cutting hers. It’s turned into a great niche for her.”

James worked at a salon in Buckhead, Ga., before Joyner, James and Flavia Medina decided to open their own salon, Curltopia, in Smyrna.

“The nicest thing about the salon is it’s very mixed,” Joyner says. “It doesn’t matter if you’re black or white, whether you have wavy or super kinky hair.”

Salon owners also can see the success that curly salons have had in New York, and the popularity of curly product lines. And with a large population of people with curly or wavy hair — people willing to spend money to make their hair look its best — many see huge market potential.

Jacqueline Early of J. Earleys Salon on Beacon Street in Boston got training from Ouidad and Christo, and says 50 percent of her clients have curly hair. Her business cards say “Curl Specialist.”

“I am so grateful I’ve had the opportunity to look at another dimension of hair,” she says. “It’s definitely been worth it to invest in a specialty area. I have clients that come from all over, and I don’t have to spend money on advertising.”

Early believes curlyheaded clients are very loyal clients when they’re happy with a hairdresser. Her clients come from all around New England and the New York area.

 ti ti branch

Titi Branch

“Cutting curly hair is a different animal than cutting straight hair,” Branch says.

Titi, who is half black and half Japanese, opened the salon in 1997 with her sister, Miko, because of their own traumatic experiences with their curly, kinky hair.

“Going to a Japanese salon was not an option,” Branch says. “And black salons wanted to weigh it down with grease. There were no choices. Most people with curly hair just got what they could get. They’d throw a dart and hope for the best. It was always an ordeal.”

She considers Miss Jessie’s to be a place where people can talk to people who truly understand their hair and can help provide solutions to help it look its best and offer options.

In many cases, curly clients may be leery of hairdresser. They may have shunned salons altogether because of bad experiences.

Some have been fighting their hair most of their life and may need to be educated in how to wear it curly. Californian Barbra Taber, who has clients who travel to her from around the country because of her reputation with curls, recalled getting a call form a 75-year-old woman who had worn her hair in a bun most of her life. She was able to give her a curly style that worked with her hair’s texture.

These salons and stylists are in it for the long term. Diane Bailey of Tendrils Salon, a natural hair salon in Brooklyn, says people initially thought she was crazy when she decided not to use chemicals any longer in her salon since most black women wanted to straighten their hair. But as more people became aware of the options, she says her business has continued to grow. Twenty-two years later, business is booming.

“This isn’t a trend,” Bailey says. “Trends come and go. This is a life choice — an option people are choosing. We’re transforming people.”

Christo believes this proliferation of curly stylists and salons is good for everyone.

“These salons help maintain the trends of curly hair,” he says. “They help people accept their hair.”

Deep Treats for Textured
Hair Types

by Teri Evans on Friday, April 3rd, 2009

deep

Treat your winter-dry hair to a deep conditioner and you’ll be rewarded with healthy tresses this spring.

A blustery winter can take an especially tough toll on textured tresses. Now as spring approaches, clients will be searching for ways to protect and prepare their curls for the warmer months to come.

“Deep conditioners fill in the cracks in the surface of the hair, so there’s no friction between the strands and the hair is smooth,” says Titi Branch, Owner of Miss Jessie’s Salon & Products in Brooklyn, N.Y. “A deep treatment can make all the difference in how your hair handles.”

“It’s a moisture issue,” adds Brent Hardgrave, a curly stylist at Salon 124 in Roswell, Ga. “As soon as you step into the humidity, whatever moisture is not in your hair, your hair is going to find it. If you practice preventive medicine on your hair, you have more opportunity to battle the humidity.”

Curl-centric stylists say the key is knowing how to apply the treatment— and making sure it includes the right ingredients for your curl type. Here, expert advice and a deep-treatment guide for every curl type.

WAVY

Curl Type: 2

Ingredients: Wavies want to look for amino acids for curl repair — since this curl type is most likely to go back and forth between curly and straight — as well as a lightweight, conditioning ingredient like coconut oil, according to Hardgrave, also a Redken artist.

“Coconut oil is extremely moisture-rich, but it won’t weigh your hair down,” Hardgrave says. “Oleo-amido, an amino acid, will also repair the hair from stretching and give it moisture. Every time you pull curly hair you’re breaking down the bonds in the hair, so you need to replenish where the bonds have been broken.

How often: Once a week for dry climates, and up to three times a week in humid environments, according to Hardgrave. “A daily curl refiner or leave-in, anti-frizz detangler, also with coconut oil in it, will really help,” he says.

Timing: Five minutes is usually long enough. If you’re multitasking, you can apply the treatment in the shower and just leave it in while shaving your legs. Or, you can spritz your waves with water, apply the treatment and leave it in while working out or cleaning the house. “The heat from your body that comes from being active will help,” Hardgrave says.

Amount: Less is more, especially for wavies with fine hair. Focus on the ends, not the scalp.

Application: For wavies, start at the mid-shaft of the hair and work your way down. Always use a wide-tooth comb in the shower or dampen the hair and then apply, to avoid breakage. “Don’t just glop it on the top of the head and comb it through,” says Hardgrave, noting that’s a common mistake.

CURLY

Curl Type: 3s

Ingredients: Curl experts agree that shea butter is your best bet, with just enough weight and slip to it so the detangling process works so much easier. Finding a treatment that includes natural oils will also help, according to Anna-Lee, a stylist with Chaz Dean Studio in Los Angeles, Calif. “Your ends are the most porous and need the most hydration,” Anna-Lee says.

How often: For shoulder-length curlies, twice a month; once a week for longer locks. Of course, every curly is unique, so apply the treatment more often if your curls are especially dry or brittle. “Longer hair requires a lot of care with deep treatments because it’s older, so you want to protect the hair and apply as much deep treatment as you possibly can,” Branch says.

Timing: At least 10 minutes.

Amount: Again, it depends on the length and density of your textured tress.

“You want to have enough coverage,” Branch says. For shoulder-length curlies, a golf-ball size amount of treatment should be enough, and simply add more for longer lengths.

Application: Start a quarter-inch from the scalp and work your way down. Always use wide-tooth comb only on wet hair or your fingers.

“If you can sleep with the treatment, and rinse it out in the morning, even better,” Anna-Lee says.

TIGHT COILS AND KINKS

Curl Type: 4s

Ingredients: “This curl type is very kinky so you definitely want shea butter, which is a very rich emollient,” Branch says. “It allows the hair to be slippery, easily detangled and helps the strands align with one another, so there’s an elimination of frizz.”

Cetyl alcohol, which is a natural fatty alcohol (not the drying kind that often comes to mind), is also recommended as an emollient and lubricant to the hair shaft. “Cetyl alcohol gives the hair a lot of slippage, which is going to create smoothness on the surface of the hair,” Branch adds.

How often: At least once or twice a week. “No deep conditioning is too much for Type 4,” Branch explains.

Timing: 20 minutes. For an even deeper treatment, use a heating cap or apply the product while in the shower; the steam will make it more effective.

Amount: For every four inches, add at least a quarter-size amount of treatment. “Type 4 tends to be the most dense curl type and you want to use enough product to get good coverage,” Branch says. “There’s more strands per square inch on a tighter, kinkier coil then there is on a Botticelli type of curl.”

Application: Again, avoid the scalp and start a quarter-inch from the roots, working your way down. Make sure the treatment is applied evenly throughout and remember to concentrate your effort on the ends—especially important for Type 4 curls, which are the kinkiest and driest of textures.

“With kinkier hair, don’t rinse the treatment completely out either,” Branch adds. “Leave in about one-tenth of the treatment to protect and coat the hair.”

Finally, always finish with a cool rinse to seal the hair shaft, lock the moisture in and show off a smooth, shinier — and healthier — curl.

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