Posts Tagged ‘michael crispel’

Curly Guys/Gals Tell All

by Michelle Breyer on Thursday, February 4th, 2010

We asked prominent stylists to tell us about their hair and what it was like growing up with curly hair.

Diane Da Costa,

textured hair expert, Mizani multi-textured expert /creative consultant and author of “Textured Tresses”

 

Q:What type of texture do you have?

A: If you look on the Mizani Natural Curl Key, my hair is a combination of Type V to Type VI - very curly and coiled. I have a loose afro with medium-size coils.

Q: How did having textured hair affect you growing up? How did you feel about your hair growing up and how has that changed since you became involved in the beauty industry?

A: My entire family has natural textured hair—from loose waves to coily hair. I was very comfortable with natural hair, but always wanted my hair longer and smoother as my hair was a thick and voluminous shoulder-length soft curly-afro hair. My sisters had mid-back length, long smooth wavy and spirally curly hair. So, growing up, I was somewhat envious of their hair. And my mother didn’t know how to style my hair — it was more difficult, so she made my older sister do it. She finally made me start styling my own hair when I was about 9 years old. That’s how I started in the business as a child.

When I was about 11 years old, I went for a relaxer at the salon so I could be more like my sisters with long and wavy hair. However my hair was relaxed straight.That meant I still had a lot of work to do with my hair, blow drying, roller setting, hot curling etc.

When I got in the industry, that completely changed. I got off all my relaxers, went natural and grew out my natural hair. It was at that point that I started experimenting with all the natural, curly styles and sets my mother would do to my sisters and tried on my hair when we were children. I love my hair for all its curls and versatility. Now with all the styling products and with the ceramic tools we have today, I am able to wear my hair blown straight without any chemicals or worn naturally curly with enhancing products. In the last two to three years, I’ve enjoyed wearing my hair straight in the fall and the winter. All I have to do is wrap it, dry, blow it out slightly with MIzani ThermaSmooth System and ceramic iron. Because I live in New York and I don’t have a texturizer, I wear my hair curly with enhancing products from about April to October.

Q: What do you think are the biggest/most important/most interesting developments in the world of hair texture today?

A: It’s amazing that everyone has embraced curly hair in all fashions and forms. Taylor Swift’s long curly waves are going to be the next big look for the spring. She’s taking the music and entertainment industry by storm, and everyone’s going to want her look, whether there are using irons, sets or extensions to complete the look.

It’s also quite amazing that there in the last 10 years that so many small, independent companies have been able to develop and manufacture hair care products for naturally curly hair, with natural and organic ingredients for all hair textures. And every salon brand now has a curly line incorporated in their overall product line-up with some natural ingredients included. Twenty years ago there were only about three, there were a handful of products available. Even Mizani, the multi-textured professional brand known for relaxers and treatments, has created True Textures Curl Defining System, which launches this month.

Q: What type of products/tools and what amount of time do you spend on your hair on “curly” days and on “straight” days?

A: On curly days, I’ll shampoo and condition my hair and apply a light leave-in cream on my entire head. Then I comb through it with a wide-toothed comb. After I apply a enhancing cream/gel on my entire head, I’ll go through the hair with my fingers and finger stretch with some products, section by section. This technique, the Mizani True Textures Free Hand Styling Technique, is part of the new techniques that I have created for the True Textures Styling Collection and Techniques, which includes six styling and three cutting techniques. After, I’ll air dry or diffuse to define the curls. Sometimes, I’ll place a turban towel on my hair and let the curls set in the towel while I get dress or finish up house chores, then I’ll finger comb with a styling cream or gloss for more vibrancy. All this takes about 10 minutes.

When I wear my hair straight, I’ll have it straightened with a wrap set, blow dry and ceramic iron in the salon after a weekly shampoo and conditioning treatment. On a daily basis, if I have to refresh the style with the ceramic iron. It takes me about 20-25 minutes, including apply a gloss or styling cream and comb-out.

Q: Any other comments/observations on curly/textured hair?

A: Curly/textured hair is the most versatile, and provides the most options, whether you keep it completely natural or use a texturizer.


Kevin Murphy

Stylist, “Texture Master” and creator of the Kevin Murphy line of products

 

Q: What type of texture do you have? Describe your hair.

A: I have salt-and-pepper curly hair.

Q: How did having textured hair affect you growing up? How did you feel about your hair growing up and how has that changed since you became involved in the beauty industry?

A: My hair was always really big, and I always felt like a boof head. I was never able to get the style I wanted without a lot of maintenance until I began to make my own hair products, which began in my kitchen at home. I could never get the right texture for my hair and once I made what I needed, a light went on in my head and I thought hmmmm there could be something in this.

Q: What do you think are the biggest/most important/most interesting developments in the world of hair texture today?

A: When I was young you just had to go with your texture, and there really were no products or tools that helped you get what you needed. You just had to suffer looking really goofy. Now there are so many products and great styling tools. If you aren’t happy with your texture you can just go and get a product or a tool and get the hair you want (with a little work, that is).

Q: What type of products/tools and what amount of time do you spend on your hair on “curly” days and on “straight” days?

A: I don’t really have straight days, but I do spend a bit of time with a “Doo Rag.” I apply a moisture cream first and have to flatten my hair with the doo rag and wait. If I try to blow my hair dry, I look like a Bee Gee. From start to finish my hair can take up to 30 minutes, but it’s more of a waiting game.

Q: Any other comments/observations on curly/textured hair?

A: My thing with my curly hair is it has a little temper tantrum every couple of day. You have to get the right thing in at the right time otherwise it’s all over. Straight hair really looks the same every day. Even after being a hairdresser for over 30 years, I just can’t roll out of bed, if I didn’t have my own range of products dedicated to texture I’d be screwed.


Nick Arrojo

 

Q: What type of texture do you have? Describe your hair.

A: I have fine, curly hair. In the past I’ve worn it long, but nowadays I go for a short, cropped men’s style.

Q: How did having textured hair affect you growing up? How did you feel about your hair growing up and how has that changed since you became involved in the beauty industry?

A: I didn’t like my curly hair at all as a teenager. It was very different from most of my friends and infuriatingly difficult to manage. Most of the time, I tried to straighten it as best I could, but the results were often disastrous—especially when it rained! Since becoming a professional, I’ve learned to love my curly hair, and I encourage all clients with natural texture to wear it natural. It’s a lot better to work with your natural texture than to try to fight against it.

Q: What do you think are the biggest/most important/most interesting developments in the world of hair texture today?

A: The best thing about modern-day curly hair is how acceptable it has become in our culture to the point where it is actually revered by many. I think that’s a great leap forward for naturally textured tresses. It’s also great to see a lot of products on the market that work really well with curly hair, helping it be what it should be: bouncy, voluptuous and unique. I’ve had clients tell me the ARROJO curl crème has changed their hairstyling life. That’s got to be a good thing.

Q: What type of products/tools and what amount of time do you spend on your hair with curly vs. straight hair?

A: Right now my hair is so short that I only use one product: texture paste. I only spend two minutes working a little paste through for extra texture and definition.

Q: Any other comments/observations on curly/textured hair?

A: You should love and embrace your natural texture. It truly is unique and wonderful.


Michael Crispel

KMS California artistic team member from Earth Salon in Toronto

Q: What type of texture do you have? Describe your hair.

A: I have thick and coarse curly hair.

Q: How did having textured hair affect you growing up?

A: I was the FRO child in school and was singled out as the ethnic kid.

Q: How did you feel about your hair growing up and how has that changed since you became involved in the beauty industry?

A: As a child I wanted flat hair that was smooth so I would blend in but as I became a hair stylist I learned to embrace my hair with all the salon products that gave me so many options, from long to short textured—making my hair the most versatile of anyone in the salon.

Q: What do you think are the biggest/most important/most interesting developments in the world of hair texture today?

A: Curly products have come a long way. In the ’70s and ’80s, it was gel or mousse at best for a natural look. But now we can give hair nutrition and style in the same products.

Q: What type of products/tools and what amount of time do you spend on your hair on “curly” days and on “straight” days?

A: KMS California Curl up Control Cream, with a diffuser, for curly days and Silk Sheen Therapy Plus or straight days

Q: Any other comments/observations on curly/textured hair?

A: We curly people are the most diverse hair type in the world, and the most afraid so for all the hair salons do your home work know your clients and products and proceed with caution!


Lorraine Massey

 

Q: What type of texture do you have? Describe your hair.

A: I have predominantly corkscrew curls. But when it’s ultra humid, the mood ring personality of my curls can change on a whim and become “bottiscrew,” which is a mix of corkscrew and Botticelli! After pulling a curl strand to its actual length and releasing it, its spring-back factor can be as much as 6 inches! That’s why it’s a disaster when you cut curly hair wet. Anything wet expands, and when it dries, it contracts. It’s like a transformer.

Q: How did having textured hair affect you growing up? How did you feel about your hair growing up and how has that changed since you became involved in the beauty industry?

A: I was so young when I figured out “this is it!” me, my curls and I till death do we part! But I was not happy about it until later in life. We curlies are not born loving our hair. We have to learn to love it and if we are lucky to find a curl sponsor who will encourage us on our unavoidably curly path—that is priceless! As a child, the teasing and name calling didn’t help either with comments like “with hair like that you don’t notice her ankles”!

Q: What do you think are the biggest/most important/most interesting developments in the world of hair texture today?

A: The Devafuser is truly unique and efficient in its design and makes so much “logiCURL” sense! I don’t think there are any other developments at the moment—just regurgitated sameness but packaged differently. It’s all geared to make you feel you are not quite good enough to really have and love what you are born with!

Q: What type of products/tools and what amount of time do you spend on your hair on “curly” days and on “straight” days?

A: Frizz and curly hair is still severely misunderstood! Unruly is a word I hear all the time in the media, and I do not like it! As they say in text book, “unruly children are looking for consistency.” Same goes for curls! When your consistent in your approach, you get consistency back. I started to love my curls the day i stopped shampooing! So no shampoo equals no sulfates. Add superior conditioners and alcohol and silicone free gels. Love me as I am and do not disturb curls in progress.

The only straight I do is talk straight or straight to bed (but always curly to rise). I am a 100 percnet committed Curly Girl, and I spend such little time on my curls because fuss equals frizz. For me it’s about truly radiCurl simplicity.

Q: Any other comments/observations on curly/textured hair?

A: When the word “texturized” is applied to natural textured hair, it really concerns me since curly hair is nothing but texture naturally, and with what I have observed over the last 10 years by committing to the natural selection, is what can happen naturally in the hair is far more beautiful than anything I can manufacture, “ManuFracture” or impose upon! It’s very humbling and goes against all we in the hair biz have been trained to do!


Ouidad

 

Q: What type of texture do you have? Describe your hair.

A: I have a combination of tight and loose curls. When I was younger my hair was so thick that if I ran my hands through it, I would lose any rings I had on my fingers.

Q: How did texture hair affect you growing up? How did you feel about your hair growing up and how has that changed since you became in the beauty industry?

A: I grew up in Beirut, Lebanon where everyone has beautiful curly hair of all shapes and sizes and color. It was the norm! When I came to the United States, people would make fun of my sister’s and my curls and no one knew how to work with curls or how to handle them.

This motivated me to be the pioneer of the curly hair industry by establishing the first salon dedicated to curly hair and creating the first product line specifically for curls. Since I started my curly hair crusade 25 years ago, the curly hair segment has grown tremendously and a lot more attention is paid to it.

Q: What do you think are the biggest/most important/most interesting developments in the world of texture today?

A: Today texture is celebrated - it’s big, it’s beautiful, it’s sexy. IT has a language of its own and it’s sought after in all aspects of fashion, beauty and design.

Q: What type of products/tools, and what amount of time do you spend on your hair on “curly” days and on “straight” days?

A: What’s a “straight” day? I only have one kind of day with my hair - CURLY! It takes 5 minutes to do my hair, and it lasts for two to three days. I use a range of my [Ouidad] products and my Double DetanglerTM both as a comb and as a styling tool for my hair. The sky’s the limit with my Double Detangler - it gives me the opportunity to create any type of curl or wave pattern.

Q: Any other comments/observations on curly/textured hair?

A: I believe textured/curly hair is regal and the most beautiful hair in the world. It has so much dimension and plays up the features of its owner.


Dickey

 

Q: What are the different textures of hair and how can you determine which texture you have? Once you do, how can you figure out how to best care for your texture?

A: Texture can easily be broken down by kinky, curly wavy or straight. To really confuse you, most people have multiple textures on on head of hair, but there is still a dominant kinky, curly, wavy or straight. Women who have the most problem identifying with their hair texture are ones that have found it to be a problem- the kinkys and the curlys. Because of the lack of info or knowledge on how to deal with those textures until recently, women often end up chemically altering and thermally manipulating their hair, some from the earliest age of 7 for the next 30 years and are just now trying to rediscover their natural texture. The best way to familiarize yourself with your texture is by gently feeling the root area (if in fact you’re relaxed) or gently caressing your natural texture while wet. Go to the mirror and look at these textures that come to life when wet and soft. Add conditioner to wet hair to see even more definition in your true texture. The first line of defense for any texture is to make sure you’re using an appropriate cleanser. Using a non suds, sulfate free cleanser such as Daily Cleansing Cream will ensure you’re hair is left clean and hydrated, without stripping hair of its natural oils. This helps hair to retain its softness and pliability, which unleashes its optimal potential, unlike conventional shampoos that prevent those textures from looking their best and make it difficult for you to recognized your true texture. Using a non suds cleanser helps your conditioner work more effectively and be the super softening conditioning treatment that you always hoped your conditioner to be. Unfortunately, those conventional shampoos made it difficult for that to happen. Your conditioner spent most of its time dealing with the damaging effects of the shampoo rather than hydrating to its fullest potential. Try using Hair Rules Quench ultra rich conditioner. This thick, concentrated conditioner, hydrates, moisturizes and softens the dryest, parched, hard hair. Do you see the common theme here? Moisture. Every texture needs it. For finer textures,this is where conditioning becomes optional, using as a treatment or a light weight conditioner such as Hair Rules Nourishment Leave In conditioner. Similar to a light moisturizer on your skin before makeup, this leave in conditioner will hydrate without weighing the hair down. Now here’s where all of this affords you to use more light-weight styling products. The hair is hydrated, in its fullest potential allowing your styling products to work better without heavy, sticky, hard, waxy results. A new generation of styling products that have a dual purpose leaving hair both conditioned and perfectly defined, will help you maximize your hair texture. The first rule in dealing with texture is, with kinky being the more severe in curl pattern and most fragile of all textures, the care of this texture is not from the standpoint of maintaing a straight style (which you can usually wear 4-5 days without touching water.) Wash and wear results can be achieved every day, for kinky/curly textures, but don’t go longer than three days before repeating your wash and wear style. This will help your curl pattern stay detangled and hydrated so it doesn’t dry out, become brittle and break off. The second rule is to get a proper hair cut every 3 months, with the ends being adequately cut when straight. You can’t cut what you can’t see on hair that is tightly wound (with shrinkage and a ziz-zag pattern.) The timing of these hair cuts is more essential than anything. Hair grows 1/4 inch to a 1/2 inch a month. If over a period of three months, you’ve gained an inch and a half, the idea is that you’re only cutting 1/4 or less of an inch. This means you’ve gained length! Taking all of this in to account when caring for your texture will help you achieve salon results at home, helping you to love and honor your hair.

Q: What was your inspiration behind creating the Hair Rules product line? The Hair Rules salon?

A: Built on a heritage of beauty, education and community, Hair Rules New York is the FIRST and ONLY multi-textural salon in the U.S., offering the healthiest approach to hair care and styling as a means toward evolving mindset, changing perceptions and influencing practice. Our goal is to help our clients re-discover their natural texture, embrace the versatility it offers, and wear it however they choose- but via healthy, responsible methods. We offer an elite team of stylists and colorists, all trained in the safe and healthy approach to hair care, color, texturizers, relaxers and styling methods. At Hair Rules, we understand that while all hair textures are not created equal, they should be treated equally. The brand came first, delivering top notch, truthful results, while the salon was created as a platform for education and sharing the truth.

Q: It seems as though women with “non-straight” hair have a complicated relationship with their hair type and texture. Why do you think this is?

A: The many faces of the beauty industry, be it hairdressers that started out in beauty school learning how to process hair and not deal with it in its natural state to the mass market manufacturers of beauty products that market products based on ethnicity rather than the texture specific approach that should be taken, have confused the consumer. The Hair Rules approach to beauty is a truthful approach, designed to offer the healthiest approach to hair care and styling as a means toward evolving mindset, changing perceptions and influencing practice.

Q: What do you tell women who are trying to embrace their natural texture but are apprehensive about how they will be perceived?

A: This is a natural evolution. Once you plant the seed and expand perceptions of beauty, women will move in a more positive, comfortable direction when they start to see images of themselves portrayed more beautifully in media. We can only influence women and build their trust from a truthful, honest approach. Truth allows you to feel comfortable in your skin.

KMS Artist Provides Tips To Zap Frizz

by Michelle Breyer on Friday, June 12th, 2009

Michael Crispel

When it comes to working with curly clients, frizz is usually the No. 1 concern stylists hear.

But the right products and techniques can help eliminate frizz, says Michael Crispel, artistic team member for KMS California and owner of Earth, A Salon by Michael Crispel, in Toronto. Crispel knows from his own personal experience, a curly himself with a family of curlies.

The process starts before you ever take a scissor to the hair, says Crispel. First, he deep conditions his clients’ curls using products with moisture and protein, such as KMS Moistrepair Restructuring Therapy and Silksheen Silk Treatment for coarse hair and Moistrepair Conditioner for finer wavier hair.

Once the hair has been cleansed and conditioned, finger comb it at the basin.

“Don’t use a fine-toothed comb because it scatters the bundle and it makes it hard to gauge the construction of each curl bundle,” he says.

Once they are in the chair, Crispel puts on some Moistrepair Leave-in Conditioner to keep the hair porous from roots to ends.

“It gives you a good balance and ensures that nothing dries uneven,” he says. “It keeps the hair hydrated.”

When it comes to cutting, stay away from cutting excessively short pieces around the hair line and minimize texturizing.

“A razor on curly hair is an absolute no-no,” Crispel says. “That’s my personal religious belief. It’s a recipe for cotton candy - a ticket to the carnival. It can change the structure and integrity of the curls.”

The only texturizing Crispel does is with the blunt end of the blade. He combs up the hair when it is half dry and looks for the bulkiest curl formation and goes in with the tip of the blade and blunt, cutting chips to give shape and volume where it’s lacking.

KMS Curlup Products

The styling products, he says, can make or break the cut. If the hair is fine to medium, he uses Curlup Curling Balm. For medium to coarse thick hair, he uses Curlup Control Creme.

Application is key. Always apply from the end to the root, climbing up the hair like a rope.

“Mid shaft to the end is the frizziest,” he says. “Concentrate the application in that area. You don’t need much at the roots.”

Like many stylists who work with curls, Crispel has some favorite frizz-fighting cocktails - mixtures of products that work especially well together.

For thick, coarse curls and kinks, he likes to use a coin-size dollop of Curlup Control Creme on wet hair, overlaying it with a drop of Hairplay Molding Paste – a 4-to-1 ratio of Control Creme to Molding Paste. For looser, finer curls, he applies a golf-ball size of Addvolume Styling Foam concentrated at the root area. Then, from the mid shaft to the ends, he applies a coin size of Curlup Curling Balm.

One of the most important things to remember when a curly sits in your chair is treat her with care.

“Do not sacrifice a curly girl,” Crispel says.

“They are the most terrified of any client,” Crispel says. “They would die to find products that work and are the most excited to change.”

Coloring Curls:

Five Must-Follow Rules

by Teri Evans on Tuesday, June 2nd, 2009

While curly hair comes in a tapestry of textures, color is what adds sparkle and dimension. Sounds simple enough to do, but it’s actually much more complex to color curls than stick-straight locks.

“With curly hair, it’s very hard to fix a problem with color,” says Denis DaSilva, co-owner of New York’s Devachan Salon.”The hair is more dense, there’s more hair to deal with, so a little mistake in color can be more painful for the person who has it. Curly hair has a tendency to be dry, so fixing a color means you’re going to damage it even more, and the end result is the curl is affected and so is the shine.”

Curls and kinks can also be crushed by color, if the hair is already damaged before you even get started.

“Maybe the client does not do enough to maintain the hair at home,” says Christo of New York’s Christo Fifth Avenue salon. “Or, maybe they like to blow out their hair or flat iron it. You have to take that into consideration before you color their hair.”

As a stylist, working with color on curlies requires the skills of a true artist — or at least someone who knows what the rules are and how to follow them. Here, we provide five simple rules to navigate the unique twists and turns of coloring curls.

Rule #1: Choose semi- or demi-permanent color whenever possible.

Curly hair is drier and more porous than straight hair, so you always want to offer your clients color options that will condition their curls instead of drying them out even more.

“Use semi- and demi-permanent color, and you can cover gray almost 100% with less damage,” DaSilva says. “Be aware that permanent color is going to add even more dryness into the hair.”

DaSilva says he always thinks long and hard before making a decision about color. “Never come to a conclusion by what the client wants or what you think,” he says. “You have to look at what the hair can take and what is best for the hair.”

Rule #2: If you must use permanent color, be strategic.

When permanent color is needed for highlights, curl-centric stylist Tamara Mooney creates only a few triangle sections of foils with three different, yet complementary, colors.

“I keep the permanent color to a minimum, and have it just be surprise color popping out from underneath so there’s less damage,” says Mooney, who specializes in curly hair at Tasha’s Beauty Studio in San Diego, Calif. “I’m only doing three or four foils that create a triangle shape on the head and the rest is semi-permanent color.”

Too many highlights or too much bleach can not only damage curly hair (which is already fragile), but can also deflate the roundness of the curls.

“Color can straighten the hair and make it frizzy, so only use ammonia and peroxide, when you’re covering gray or highlighting,” Mooney says. “Any other time use semi-permanent colors.”

Rule #3: Never, ever overlap color.

One of the most commonly overlooked mistakes stylists make is to overlap when coloring the roots, according to Christo.

“Curly hair is more porous [than straight hair], so when you apply color you have to stay on the roots. Whatever you overlap is going to get darker,” Christo says. “The uneven color will create a zebra strip when the color starts to grow out.”

Christo suggests using a brush that is thin and clean enough to easily apply color exactly where the client needs it.

“A lot of stylists make the mistake of applying color 20 minutes on the roots, then the last 10 minutes they’ll do the ends,” Christo explains. “But with curly hair, the ends are so porous that it will become darker, creating a demarcation.”

Michael Crispel, a creative artist for KMS California and owner of Earth Salon in Toronto, Ont., agrees.

“For all-over color, make sure to split up the formulation from roots to ends,” Crispel says. “Because of the porosity of curly hair, the roots get hotter. The roots look lighter than the ends. Good stylists know to watch the roots versus the ends.”

Rule #4: Remember, healthy hair is critical for coloring curls.

No matter the color service, Christo encourages his clients to deep condition their curls before coming into the salon. If they don’t — and their hair shows up damaged and dry— he’ll begin the service with a 10-minute conditioning treatment before he applies even the first drop of color.

“That way the color will look more shiny and it won’t dry the hair out,” Christo says.

After every color service Christo always adds his conditioning treatment (which does not require heat) lasting five to eight minutes, and builds the cost into the overall price of the color service.

“I don’t charge them the price of a full treatment, just maybe one third of it, depending on how often the client comes into the salon,” he says.

Rule #5: Always educate your clients and offer option; never turn them away.

Even if a client shows up with damaged or over-processed hair, it’s your responsibility as a professional to come up with options.

“You can’t promise them the world and then damage their hair and expect the curls to bounce back, but you also never want to say, ‘I can’t do it,’” Mooney says. “You just have to turn it around in a way that will work for their hair, and work for them.”

For example, if a curly client arrives with severely damaged hair, Mooney says your best bet is to focus on semi-permanent color, along with low-lites to get their hair closer to its natural state.

“You want to have a much higher percentage of natural hair with just accent colors in there, unless you’re covering gray,” she says.

For those clients who are addicted to being a bleach-blonde, be careful taking them too dark too fast or it will “freak them out,” Mooney says, “and you’re going to lose the client.”

Instead, move slowly toward the dark side, keeping enough blonde in their hair to keep them happy, while also educating them that hair must be healthy to be at its curly, bouncy best.

Mooney also suggests stylists collect European magazines and tear out examples of beautiful color and curls—and contrast that with examples of hair disasters. Then, put it all together in your own curly book of color (and keep it right next to your chair) so you can quickly show clients, instead of just tell them, what their options are and what will work best.

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