Curly Pool Party Texture Squad Stylist: The Curl Girl
by CurlStylist on Friday, May 25th, 2012
By: Jennifer Kenny, The Curl Girl
As Tampa’s first curl specialist, I know a thing or two about how to keep your curls looking great in the intense Florida heat and humidity. Florida has 4 of the top ten most humid cities in the country. With more than 60 percent of the population having textured hair, I saw more people working against their hair. It became my personal mission to help my clients love and embrace their curls.
I strongly believe that using high quality products the right way is just as important as getting the right cut. Helping curlies understand how to care for and style their curls to look great, even if they only have 5 minutes, CAN be done if they use the right products, in the right amounts and apply them in the right order.
My clients trust me because I don’t “sell” them products. I tell them what they need, what’s nice to have and what they can’t live without to recreate the curls they leave my chair with. I almost always send my clients to NaturallyCurly.com. It’s such a treasure trove of invaluable information and all of the tools curlies need to empower themselves to have great curls.
Join me this week in celebration of NaturallyCurly’s descent on Orlando for the 2012 Curly Pool Party! I will be blogging tips for keeping your curl awesomeness factor off the charts as I bring you proven summer defense tactics and true client stories about loving your curls, Florida style.
Have you sent in your RSVP for the Curly Pool Party? Don’t miss out on this curl-tas-tic event!
by Victoria Wurdinger on Tuesday, June 1st, 2010
Unlike the secretive rule behind the book and movie “Fight Club,” frizz fight is all the talk of salons. With summer humidity around the corner, conversations are heating up. But as clients get more educated about their curl, an emerging mini-trend is to go natural in summer and choose frizz-fighting treatments in winter, when blow drying is required if you don’t want to leave the house with wet hair.
“The key to going natural in summer is to keep the hair well moisturized on the inside; the weather keeps the outside moisturized,” says Irvine Russo, owner of Eclips in Mclean, VA .
For those who want to fight the frizz anytime, in-salon services are plentiful. The newest options stop short of the traditional approach—reduce frizz by killing curl—used by Japanese TR, which takes up to 8 hours, and “Brazilian” keratin services, which have suffered from lack of transparency about their use of various aldehydes. The holy grail is a long-lasting frizz controller that works in increments, uses no aldehydes and doesn’t break bonds—and it looks like it’s arrived.
In-Salon Treatment Options
Some frizz reducers rely on ammonium thioglycolate sans the expected perm rods. For instance, Rusk Anti Curl AntiFrizz, is a frizz remover and anti-humectant that does not remove natural curl. It takes 30 minutes in the salon. Create Ion’s demi-permanent, thio-based re-texturizing treatment, Texture Management, allows stylists to reduce texture by degree, smooth hair and fight frizz. It is intended to “maintain the positives of Japanese TR, while removing the negatives” (costly, time-consuming, hard to retouch). After about 6 weeks, it fades away. These services cannot be used on hair that’s been exposed to sodium hydroxide.
“Brazilian” treatments break no bonds and actually make trashed hair look better. In a twist on these, Rejuvenol Brazilian Keratin Treatment with Collagen uses Vanilin, and the company’s Pure Collagen is a unique protein-delivery, take-home treatment that helps smooth curly hair and fight frizz, while restoring condition. Watch for more of these, but be sure you ask what’s in them.
A number of newer treatments like BioIonic KeraSmooth Demi-Permanent Anti-Frizz use a mild perm solution, which is increasingly likely to be cysteamine—the main active in thio-free permanent waves, which cleaves inter-protein bonds. For those familiar with the perms, cysteamine usually must be rinsed for more than 5 minutes to avoid an unpleasant smell, and the hair cannot be shampooed for 48 hours. The newest cysteamine treatments can be used incrementally for anything from frizz reduction to total smoothing.
For instance, Russo uses Smooth and Healthy Protein Treatment from Surface. He says the hair must be “competent,” meaning it must have healthy, structural protein for the product to soften, and he likens the process to loosening or relaxing the spring in curl, then reinforcing the protein structure with more proteins. Basically, a protein cream is misted on before a smoothing cream is applied off-the-scalp in sections. Then the hair is smoothed, processed and rinsed before it is re-misted with protein cream and oxidized with a hydrogen peroxide locking lotion. By changing variables such as timing and potential blow drying or flat ironing, Smooth and Healthy allows customized options, from frizz reduction to smoothing.
According to the company, an amino acid complex softens the hair’s structural, protein and Amaranth protein binds to hair during the smoothing process. The smoothing cream contains ammonium hydroxide and cysteamine HCL. However, Surface’s president Wayne Grund says the protein cream provides a low pH with a heavy base, so that when the smoothing cream is applied over it, the cysteamine softens the structural protein, including the disulfide bond, without breaking it.
Caribbean Dream Relaxer (CDR) also uses cysteamine and is a “four in one” system that allows you to reduce frizz, tame hair, create softer wave or straighten, according to retexutrizing experts Homer and Dani Prefontaine, owners of Salon Prefontaine in Carsbad, CA.
“The differences are in how the product is applied; for the frizz killer, you mix all four ingredients together at once,” says Dani. “The treatment can take less than an hour and bring in $150 to $180. Also, I can use CDR on hair that has been exposed to a sodium relaxer or a thio-based product.”
Adds Homer, “About 75% of our curly haired clients choose a CDR service for one of the four ways it can retexturize hair, and many of them are men.”
Just as Brazilian keratin treatments require sulfate-free shampoos, many of the frizz fighters require their own ancillary maintenance products. Darlene Lodge, owner of Galleria in Waldorf, MD, who replaced her Brazilian system with Smooth & Healthy, says home use of the protein creme is a must. For clients who prefer it totally natural, diffuse drying goes a long way to eliminating frizz.
“It makes any wave pattern more consistent; the hair dries frizz-free because there is no finger-manipulation,” says Lodge. “Once the hair is dry, you can go back in and break it up.”
Any salon can offer anti-frizz systems, like bain de terre’s All About Curls Camelina Collection, which includes a shampoo, conditioner and defining crème, and reduces frizz by 50% while moisturizing natural-looking curls. Additional frizz-fighting tips:
- • You can only air dry if you start with the right shampoo and conditioner for the hair type.
- • Avoid towel-drying, which mats hair; squeeze out moisture instead. Or, use a T-shirt which doesn’t have the hair-grabbing nubs of a towel.
- • The shorter the hair, the more likely it is to frizz. Longer hair is heavier, which can help pull out the frizz.
- • Frizzy hair should rarely be cut with a razor; keep ends blunt so they stick together. If a razor is even slightly dull, it will make hair frizz more.
- • Frizz can be a problem for any hair type, but naturally dry hair that lacks moisture tends to frizz the most. Because the cuticle is open, the moisture escapes.
- • Don’t style naturally textured hair with a brush, unless you want to pull it straight. In that case, use a paddle brush. The more you brush through the hair as you dry it, the more it will separate and the frizzier it will get. Instead, use a wide-toothed comb, smooth in the product with your hands and style with your fingers.
- • Once you’ve shaped curly or wavy hair, don’t touch it again. After it’s dry, you can work through pomade for shine or molding products to subdue texture or break it up.
Notes Russo, “There are two types of frizz. Once is from damaged ends, and those can be cut off. The other is ‘style frizz’ from overworking a style or too-dry hair. The more moisture you add, the heavier the hair is and the less big it will get. Get moisture into the cortex, and you’ll avoid frizz for good.”
Antonio’s View: Taming Your Tresses
by Antonio Gonzales on Monday, March 22nd, 2010
I was born in Trinidad in the height of a hurricane. I spent my childhood surrounded by the sights and sounds and smells of Carnival and the other Indian, African and Spanish festivals of the Islands. Loving the amazing costumes, I got my start dressing my sisters and doing their hair and makeup. An opportunity came up to work with Trinidad’s leading costume designers, makeup artists and hair stylists. After I left the Island, my career evolved with work in Munich, Los Angeles and now New York City. Here in New York, I am a stylist at the Orlo Salon in the Meat Packing district. Vogue magazine recently named me as one of the rising hairstylist stars in N.Y., I was awarded the best haircut of 2008 by shecky’s.com, Gotham Magazine called me a Shear Genius and Allure Magazine featured me as one of the best cuts 2009.
See Antonio’s blog here.
Curly hair in the summer can be difficult for some women and a challenge for most. Depending on where we live, our climates can be characterized by dry heat or being extremely humid. Generally, some of the obstacles we face include: dehydrated hair, frizzing and curls shrinking as opposed to being a bit looser as they are in the winter.
As hairstylists, we have our favorite products of all time that we use to address these issues and we love to share them with each other. I am happy to have the opportunity to share these products with you; products that have changed my life and that of my clients. Some of them are new and some are old, but no matter what, I expect they will add something to your station and make your life easier when dealing with curly tresses.
Renew by Orlando Pita (Dry Conditioner)
Working with Orlando Pita has changed the way I see, touch and think about hair. A big part of my training is understanding how products can affect hair in order to obtain the best results. This product has actually won awards for Orlando and T3, and here’s why. We’ve all heard about dry shampoos, but this dry conditioner can change hair that is a bit fly away and contains static to hair with far more control.
It truly is a miracle product! It’s conditioning with a unique blend of botanicals and Vitamins E, B6 and…the best part…no water is needed.
Plump (for all hair types)
Curly hair lacks two things—definition and moisture. Plump can give definition without being packed with alcohol and can also leave the hair feeling great. If you have a client with fine, color-treated curls and you don’t want to stress her/his hair, try adding this with one of your favorite curl creams to get the definition needed. It’s great to diffuse with as well and has heat protection.
Moroccan Oil Treatment (for all hair types)
On my many trips to Trinidad and Tobago, I always see my nieces running into the ocean and running out with dehydrated and tangled hair. On my recent trip, I lined up the girls (like a crazy person) and one by one I added a quarter-size dab of this product to their dry hair from roots to ends.
The smell is to die for and the result as they returned from the water was nothing short of a miracle. As the hair dries, the combination between the salt water and Moroccan Oil left the hair feeling fantastic!
Kérastase Gelee Aqua Proof (ultimate sun protection)
Kérastase has created a wetsuit for the hair and it really works. Have your clients use it as a styling gel before hitting the beach or lying out. They can wear their hair curly or slicked into a bun. One thing’s for sure; they will maintain the curl and the best protection from the sun and salt. It will also protect the hair from further dehydration and loss of color.
Kérastase Soleil Voile Protecteur (leave-in spray)
I love this product!
It’s one of the best styling products for my own hair. Being Ethiopian and Portuguese, my hair is different on the top and sides. My hair is also fine, but I have a lot of it. This product is great for clients who like to air dry their hair. I recommend spraying it into your hand and applying it to the client’s hair while molding it into the shape you want.
The result is hair that dries well and the client can feel free to run their fingers through it after it is completely dry. I also add a little of the next product in the lineup on thicker hair.
Kérastase Crème UV Défense Active (rinse off conditioner)
I use this product on my own curly hair in the height of summer and the results are flawless. Although it’s a rinse-off conditioner, I leave it in as a styling product. Amazingly, it does not build up like some other products. In the spring, I mix it with the previous product to weaken it a bit.
Naturina Rejuvenating Pure Oils
I am always looking for one product to share that can achieve the job of many. This is especially true during these times when there are several products on the market to choose from. About four months ago (at least), I came across a product that seemed interesting. That product is Longevity Rejuvenating Oil by Naturina.
It’s a multi-purpose, pure oil that will be an incredible asset to your daily routine in the salon. I recommend adding a little to hair color for clients with sensitive scalps. It’s amazing for thick, frizzy hair in the sun because of its conditioning effects and its UV protection. You can add a little to your favorite hair mask as well. I also use it. Simply add a few drops to your styling products and dry as usual. If air-drying, use less.
I look forward to hearing your feedback and of any recommendations of your own.
I wish you a great day in the salon.