The Clipper Guy: Top 5 Tips For Securing Sections

by Ivan Zoot/The Clipper Guy on Monday, June 21st, 2010

Ivan Zoot is the director of education and customer engagement for the Andis Company and the founder of Zoot! Hair professional hair care products. Ivan identifies, recruits, trains and manages Andis’ team of professional beauty industry educators. Ivan continues to be a featured presenter at industry shows and events, sharing his unique blend of information, education and enthusiasm for clipper cutting and the entire professional beauty industry. Ivan’s background includes experiences ranging from salon ownership to achieving 3 Guinness World Haircutting records.

Clipping and securing hair sections during cutting is a reality of hair cutting. How to clip up and secure hair is a subject of debate. There are concerns of damaging hair with rough clips or harsh tools. There are issues of presentation and theatre. How does the client look during the performance of the cutting service with hair piled up on and all over their head? Here are my top five tips for securing sections during hair cutting.

1. Clip it: Classic sectioning clips are the standard. Today, sectioning clips are better than ever. The new wide-jaw clips are designed to hold larger amounts of hair gently. There are soft-touch, coated clips that are nice to hair and feel great to use. The old-style steel ones can be put to pasture in favor of these newfangled options. If you prefer clips, today’s choices just rock.

2. Knot it: Another option is knotting the hair in subsections. You can subdivide main sections into subsections and twist and lock these in on themselves. These little knotted sections look great, neat and organized, during cutting. There are online tutorials showing how to twist and lock these knots. Try it.

3. Gel it: If the hair you are working with is not too thick, long or heavy, you can secure sections by just loading the hair with a medium-to-firm-hold styling gel. Partings and sections can be laid over and will hold and cling in place. This is my preferred method for sectioning control. I like to work with styling products in the hair for a number of reasons… more on this in my next blog. This reason is to secure sections in a snappy and professional manner.

4. Comb it: You are using a comb to comb; use a comb to lock extra hair up and away. You have plenty of combs. Grab another and use one as a hair clip. Slip it into the hair section and back lock it into place. This works great, looks professional and all those combs are right there at your fingertips, anyway.

5. Customize it: The standard clips or your convenient combs just do not reflect your artistic creativity. It is time to express yourself when in hair cutting mode. I have seen a lot, but I am sure I have not seen it all when it comes to hair section clipping. Chopsticks, pipe cleaners, kids hair accessories, etc. They all can be pressed into service for holding hair. Use a bit of creativity and see what you can come up with.

Try a few of these techniques and discover which one is the right one for you. Maybe it is not just one. Maybe more than one of these are right for you… the right one at the right time on the right client.

I would love to hear of your opinions and success stories. Please share!

Christo: Curlisto Creator Explains New Technique

by Evelyn Ngugi on Monday, April 26th, 2010

Christo

Christo, curly hair expert and stylist to the stars, unveiled his curly-haired technique “Diametrix” this March at the International Beauty Show in New York.

“It was a great success because even the most inexperienced stylist said it was easy for them to understand the technique,” said the owner of Christo Fifth Avenue salon in New York.

The technique is very visual and hands on, but Christo—who also offers a line of products called Curlisto—assures stylists that it is designed to give guidance on how they can go about cutting curls, kinks, coils, and waves.

“People with no experience when they see someone with curly hair they will run out, and a lot of people have a lot of bad experience from hair stylist that didn’t know what to do with curly hair.”

Diametrix uses certain maneuvers and types of cuts that take thickness, length, texture and curl of the hair into account. (he mentioned cross sections, cross wise, and center of the crown – I have no idea what that is, and he said it’s best not to go into detail…so should I still leave that in?)

The Diametrix technique is highly personalized and shouldn’t be applied to a weave or hair extensions, Christo said. Even customers with seemingly “similar” hair texture or curl pattern shouldn’t have the exact treatment because “you’ll end up with a disaster,” he said.

Christo, suggests stylists edit the style as they go. Yes, Diametrix provides the blueprint, but can be a fantastic tool for a stylist to work with, creating unique styles every time.

Once a month, Christo holds a class at the Curlisto headquarters in New York City. It is $300 to attend if your salon carries Curlisto products. The cost is $1500 if you do not. It’s about a 4-hour class plus a luncheon.

“Everything starts with me teaching and usually I let them take over,” he said. “I’m a very hands-on stylist. I like my classes to be involved. I don’t just drop it on them.”

For stylists who desire a more basic course in curly hairstyling, Christo recommends the “Art of Curly Hair” seminar, which teaches the styles that varying textures of curly hair can create. The class is free and available upon request.

“I want stylists to first understand curly hair—get the fear out of their system,” he said. “I want them to feel comfortable, to say ‘okay this looks cool—that’s how we basically guide the style.”

Christo introduced this technique in hopes that stylists will be better equipped to serve their customers.

“Diametrix is designed simply as an extra tool to encourage stylists to want to make part of their salon a specialty for curly hair.”

Clipper Guy Says . . .Nice To Meet You!

by Ivan Zoot/The Clipper Guy on Monday, March 15th, 2010

Ivan Zoot is the director of education and customer engagement for the Andis Company and the founder of Zoot! Hair professional hair care products. Ivan identifies, recruits, trains and manages Andis’ team of professional beauty industry educators. Ivan continues to be a featured presenter at industry shows and events, sharing his unique blend of information, education and enthusiasm for clipper cutting and the entire professional beauty industry. Ivan’s background includes experiences ranging from salon ownership to achieving 3 Guinness World Haircutting records.

You put a lot of time, effort and energy into keeping up on your skills and education as a stylist. You try to be well-versed in the care of any and every type of hair. The prospect of cutting heavily textured and naturally curly hair stops you cold. There are way too many chances for this to go wrong. It can take forever for a curly client to recover from a bad haircut. Then again, maybe you are the queen (or king) of naturally curly hair care and cutting in your shop. Being a leader and staying at the front of the pack requires continuous effort and reinvestment in your craft.

It is nice to meet you. Welcome to my new blog here at CurlStylist.com.

I am Ivan Zoot, a licensed cosmetologist, barber and salon industry educator. I have cut a lot of hair. My salon in the Chicago suburbs does more 300 haircuts every day. I do not cut celebrity clients. I cut hair for real people who want celebrity style and glamour but do not have teams of professionals in the bathroom every morning as if life was a photo shoot or a movie premiere.

Let’s talk about cutting curly hair cuts. Let’s discuss taking control of this large, passionate and profitable market. I have looked online. I could not find a web site called naturallystraight.com. There is an opportunity and a reason we gather here.

I like to break things down and focus on individual elements of a challenge. Here are my Top Five Tips to overcome the fear of curly cutting.

1. Get over it True success as a commercial stylist can only come when you can stand at your chair, look to the door and know that whoever and whatever walks in, you can deliver a service and take their money. No exceptions. If there is a service you cannot perform or a type of client you fear, get over it. Period. Salon diversity and multi-culturalism is a salon reality.
2. Get skills Once you have identified a skills “opportunity” like curly cutting, get the education you need. Take a class. Attend a seminar. Watch a video. Buy a book. Our industry prides itself on the wealth of education and information available.
3. Get practice This is how you got started in our business. You are never too old or too experienced to offer services for FREE to learn and master a skill.
4. Get the word out Promote. Promote. Promote. Once you have committed to expand the volume of services you do in curly cutting you need to let the world know. The clients will flock to you if the skills, the value and the enthusiasm are in place.
5. Get busy Get busy curly cutting with passion. If you have spent a few minuets cruising NaturallyCurly.com or CurlStylist.com, you are well aware of the energy and enthusiasm this is segment is brimming with. By positioning yourself as an expert here you will be very busy being busy in no time.

I look forward to getting to know you and your curly cutting challenges, hopes and dreams. This blog is intended to serve as a forum for ideas, concerns and discussions specifically centered around curly hair cutting. Keep the cards and letters coming.

Ivan

Antonio’s View: On the Razor’s Edge

by Antonio Gonzales on Monday, March 8th, 2010

I was born in Trinidad in the height of a hurricane. I spent my childhood surrounded by the sights and sounds and smells of Carnival and the other Indian, African and Spanish festivals of the Islands. Loving the amazing costumes, I got my start dressing my sisters and doing their hair and makeup. An opportunity came up to work with Trinidad’s leading costume designers, makeup artists and hair stylists. After I left the Island, my career evolved with work in Munich, Los Angeles and now New York City. Here in New York, I am a stylist at the Orlo Salon in the Meat Packing district. Vogue magazine recently named me as one of the rising hairstylist stars in N.Y., I was awarded the best haircut of 2008 by shecky’s.com, Gotham Magazine called me a Shear Genius and Allure Magazine featured me as one of the best cuts 2009.

See Antonio’s blog here.

As we all know (hairstylists and clients alike), the razor has been given a bad name, especially for curly hair. I am here to say that it is not the razor, rather the person using the razor. The razor is a tool from the heavens, literally. Its ability to be so gentle and precise on curly hair surpasses scissors with results that leave curls speechless.

Here are four important topics covering the do’s and don’ts to help you better understand this amazing tool.

1. The type of razor

The Feather Razor
I recommend not using a Feather Razor on curly hair. This razor comes with a guard, which limits the use of the blade. The guard is for us not to cut ourselves or the client, but it takes away from the magic of the razor and is far more aggressive. If you see someone using this razor, you can witness its scalping action. Yes, some of us are strong with this tool but with a lot of practice we take it one step further and use a Classic Razor.

The Straight Classic Razor
Now this baby is what I’m talking about. The difference is like cutting top sirloin with a good steak knife versus a butter knife. This razor can be used with such precision that a haircut can maintain its shape and last long. There are so many parts to that single blade—I can twist my wrist and get results that no other cutting tool can give me. I cannot only remove bulk with this, but I can also create amazing lines for length that’s soft without being shredded.

However, there are times when a pair of scissors is called to do the job. That’s when we professionals decide what’s best for the hair type and the look we are trying to achieve.

2. Thinning Shears

This tool is good for finishing a man’s haircut (very final step), not for curly hair. It’s the number one mistake that makes curly hair weak and lose its shape quickly. Because it goes deep into the hair, it is targeting the structure in a line across the section of hair. Keep in mind that curly hair needs to have a foundation in order for it to move like real hair and grow out well.

3. Razor on Wet Hair

Yes, this can be done. When it’s done the focus is on the size of sections, sectioning, texture and hair type. Remember, when hair is wet it stretches and is extremely vulnerable to over cutting. This is also when the Classic Razor is the client’s best friend allowing the stylist to have full control and cut the hair without aggression.

4. Razor Cutting on Dry Hair

This is where serious cutting skills come in. My boss and mentor, Orlando Pita, recently taught me to approach a Classic Razor cut on dry hair when the hair is blow-dried smooth. I’d never seen this done before and I’m grateful to have learned from one of the hair masters. When cutting curly hair that is blown out, the focus is on whether the client is wearing his or her hair straight only or straight and curly, as well their ability to master the styling themselves.

Start doing your research for a hairstylist that’s strong with the classic straight razor and go in for a consultation. As you can see, there are many ways to approach cutting curly hair wrong and right. So it’s about you the client finding a hairstylist (referral preferably) to cut your curly hair.

I wish you beautifully razor cut curly hair!