Posts Tagged ‘fashion’
Textured Hair on the Runway
by Cassadie on Wednesday, February 1st, 2012
The spotlight is on texture in the fashion industry, and we don’t mean tweeds, wools and ruching. Curls, kinks and waves are front and center on the runway this season.
Sleek, flat locks are a thing of the past on the runway as fashion designers and hair stylists draw inspiration from the textured-hair revolution taking place around the world. Together, they have resurrected the art of the curl and are putting it center stage in fashion shows everywhere.
The versatility of texture provides stylists with an infinite amount of creative possibilities for designing high-drama, high fashion, haute couture hair to complement the equally dramatic clothing created by renowned designers.
“Rather than sleek, straightened hair, what we’re seeing more and more of in fashion is a celebration and enhancement of texture,”says runway and celebrity stylist Danilo.
The fashion industry draws its inspiration not only from other cultures and eras, but also from what’s happening on urban streets. Tammy Mixon of Farouk’s Global Artistic Board says she has noticed more consumer awareness of the damaging potential of double processing hair.
“We’re seeing more coloring, and as a result, less straightening treatments, so naturally there has been a reemergence of textured hair,”says Mixon.
Additionally, via websites like NaturallyCurly.com geared toward textured hair, and a wide network of curly-haired bloggers and vloggers, there has also been a large increase in consumer education of how to work with and wear natural texture.
“That’s the beauty of having an educated population: a multi-textured world,” says Anthony Dickey, lead stylist and founder of Hair Rules.
As the number of people wearing naturally textured hair increases, designers are picking up on this global trend and incorporating texture into their runway presentations.
“I think designers are also finding inspiration in models who are unapologetically sporting their natural hair,” says Dickey. “By incorporating naturally existing textures into their runway shows, designers create a more distinctive and authentic presentation to complement their unique aesthetics.”
On the Runway
Textured hair on the runway comes in a wide variety of forms depending on the designer’s overall concept. From loose waves to tightly kinked afros, stylists are exploring all options.
“This year we were seeing a lot of what we call ‘third-day hair,’” says Cutler salon stylist Mike Martinez. “It’s big, loose natural waves that create a sort of undone look.”
Another popular look is created from tighter curls that have been deconstructed for a voluminous look with a lot of movement. “This is a style I want to see more of,” says Mixon. “The bigger the better!”
Frizz has also become a fashion forerunner, according to Danilo: “I love the drama of frizz. It’s got a really playful structure.”
Working with a model’s hair texture, whether it’s frizz or flat, is becoming a popular method for runway stylists. Carlos Fernandez of LuxeLab, who is known for his innovative work in enhancing texture for runway shows, likes to adapt a model’s hair texture to the runway concept.
“If a look is straight with a deep side part, but a model has super kinky hair, I won’t necessarily blow the hair straight, but I will work to enhance the natural texture and incorporate the deep side part. It looks better on the model and is less work for the stylist,” he says.
However, texture isn’t always seen in variations of curls and waves. It’s also seen in the introduction of braids, twists, buns, knots and crimped pieces to the hair.
“Texture is about adding a bit of intrigue to the hair,” says Martinez. “It’s taking the extra step to add a bit of drama where the audience least expects it. That’s where you go from a normal salon style to a runway style.”
Mixon also noted that it’s rare to see a runway show without incorporating extensions into the looks: “Hair has to be exaggerated because it’s on stage,” she says.
Rising to the Challenge
Despite the growing popularity of texture on the runway, there still exists a lack of industry knowledge in working with curls.
“I learned how to work with textured hair because I am passionate about it and pursued working with texture on my own,” says Fashion Week stylist Jennifer Lord of Naturally Me! Salon in Baltimore. “It’s not something taught in cosmetology school.”
Behind the scenes of the Spring 2012 shows in Paris, model Jourdan Dunn tweeted her frustrations with lack of stylist knowledge in working with her texture.
“It’s so surprising to fi nd yourself at a show being styled by a stylist who knows how to work with my hair,” says model Nikia Phoenix.“I refuse to have my hair straightened anymore and I bring my own products because I’ve found I know texture better than most stylists. I keep my hair short because with less hair, there’s less risk of a stylist damaging my hair.”
With advancements in product formulations and tools, stylists are now equipped better than ever to create innovative, high-fashion, high-drama, haute-couture textured hair.
“Today we’re at the intersection of fashion and science,” says Danilo. “We have biological needs that science is helping to bring to the public.”
Because of that, interpretation of the word texture is going to be diverse: glam texture, ethnic texture, natural texture, manufactured texture and more. In the upcoming seasons, a return of vintage styling techniques such as setting, pin curls, plaiting, bouffant and fi nger waves combined with modern innovations in coloring and extensions will be the next wave in runway texture.
“The future is both a return to classic and natural techniques and hightech processes,” says Danilo. “Fashion is an opportunity to create a feeling, a vibe, a spirit.”
Ron King Foundation Awards Major Cosmetology Scholarship
by Megan Dorcey on Wednesday, December 15th, 2010
We were honored to be invited to the Ron King Salon Grand Opening on Sunday night at the Four Seasons Hotel in Austin, TX. The Style King wanted to share his success with the entire city by throwing a major soiree and runway show with NY designer, Thuy. To open the show, INOA by L’Oreal Paris had four models including their signature fiery red head, with insane texture and vibrant colors.
The famous INOA red hair.
The one reason we were all there was to honor The Ron King Foundation’s scholarship winner, Briana Flores. King’s Foundation has a goal to directly influence young cosmetology students. Not only did he hand over $25,000 in scholarship funds, but he also promised to mentor the student throughout their career.
Ron King with Briana Flores, accepting the scholarship.
The entire event went off without a hitch, and we can’t wait to see what this super-stylist has up his sleeve for the future. We wish all the best of luck to the new Ron King Salon in the Four Seasons Hotel in Austin.
Fall Fashion Trends—Hair and Clothes
by Alicia Ward on Monday, September 13th, 2010
We’ve got our eye on the hottest fall trends. In order to meet your clients’ needs and help them look stylish and fashion-forward check, out these top 5 hottest trends for fall, in hair and in fashion.
Top 5 Hair Trends
1. Bangs! Bangs are a great way to spice up any style. This season, chunk bangs are the hottest trend.
2. Braids! Braids are everywhere. Braids of all styles are a HOT beauty trend right now. French braids and fish tails are a favorite for Fall.
3. Messy Sexy Hair and BIG Texture! Bye-bye straightening irons—messy texture is back and bigger than ever.
4. Buns & Twists! Modern twists on classic ‘dos are taking over this fall.
5. Color! Fun pops of color are back. Colorful streaks are back in full color.
Top 5 Fashion Trends
1. Knee high boots! Tall suede boots are a fashion staple in the fall and winter seasons.
2. Gray, the new black! Greige a combination of gray and beige, as the name implies, is a big trend this fall season and a must-have style.
3. Denim! Denim on denim a hot look for fall! Pull out that denim shirt from the past and belt it for the hottest look.
4. Cardigans are back! Oversized cardigans are a “must-have” this season.
5. Tights! Patterned tights are the best accessory this season.
Ron King: Is Gray the New Black?
by The Style King/Ron King on Monday, August 30th, 2010
Ron King has worked as a hairstylist, transforming people’s appearances, for more than 20 years. With a growing celebrity clientele, King travels the world taking inspiration from different cultures and countries. Along the way, he has developed his own “easy wear” style philosophy which plays up a woman’s natural hair texture and pairs it with natural-looking makeup that’s easy to apply. This mantra led him to launch a signature line of cosmetics for women who want to look pulled together but who are are short on time. King has worked with some of the most respected names in the industry, including L’Oreal Professional, Ted Gibson, Eva Scrivo and Rick Wellman.
There’s been something underfoot with manicure colors this summer…. The boring neutrals and vampy, dark purple/black shades of nail lacquer we saw last year have gone the way of square-shaped nails, and all but disappeared from the hands of discerning fashionistas the world over.
In their place? A new shade called “greige,” a combination of gray and beige, as the name implies, that is totally chic and acts as its own kind of neutral. Less dated and expected than creams and pale pinks, but not as drastic as the sultry dark shades we’ve also been seeing, it’s nearly the perfect nail polish color. The shade looks great on most skin tones and with a variety of looks (just look at the celebs sporting the nail polish shade, from Karen O to Megan Fox, for evidence)… It adds sophistication to a more edgy ensemble and makes the classic shapes and colors we’ve seen on the runways for Fall 2010 more fun and trendy. It’s also an inexpensive way to perk up your style and update older looks.
I suggest wearing this nail color again on a shortish, rounded nail and make sure your nails are well-groomed! The grayish beige tends to look sloppy on unkempt nails. The color has been popular since last spring, but is becoming more mainstream presently (for those who fear the trend is a bit risque for them). I recommend trying Chanel’s nail color #505 or Revlon’s Steel Etto for a more affordable option.
Grow Income With Eyelash-Enhancing Services
by Megan Dorcey on Monday, June 28th, 2010
Kim Kardashian sparks the most envy with me when it comes to beauty. Of course, the starlet has the perfect skin tone and luscious locks, but she also has the most stunning eyelashes! I know that she is genetically blessed with Armenian features that I (pale-skinned, red hair, freckles, etc.) will never have naturally. I like to pride myself on the fact that I have been a take-charge woman who doesn’t take “no” for an answer. So instead of accepting this as my fate, I began seeking out ways to not so naturally enhance some of my features with inspiration from Ms. Kardashian.
Eyelash extensions are becomming such a hot trend among the beauty community, I can no longer ignore it. In fact, I am willing to embrace this trend, and after doing some research I am one step closer. When my esthetician first said to me, “You have gorgeous lashes, but you would look great with some extensions,” I was clueless. She began to tell me about lash extensions, and to be honest; every single one of my girliest dreams started looking more like reality. I am an advertiser’s dream—purchasing every single lash-enhancing mascara and tool I see in the makeup aisles. What if enhancing my lashes a little more permanently would rid me of the constant barrage of goopy wands almost completely?
I finally decided that I was going to do some research on the matter and stumbled upon a few different products. Salons and beauty stores are starting to carry an alternative to the lash extensions such as Lash Food’s natural eyelash and eyebrow conditioning stimulators that would provide longer, darker, and stronger lashes. This line of products is different from prescription-only Latisse, in the sense that it will not cause any kind of side effects. The ingredients are all natural and consumers can purchase it from you, rather than having to get it at a pharmacy.
If you want more of an instant gratification, JB Cosmetics also offers lash extensions and lash-curling services. The curling, or “Simple Perm”, as they have dubbed it, is a short procedure that gives lashes the same effect a lash curler would, only semi-permanently. Another lash extension service by NovaLash offers training to stylists everywhere so that you, too, can be on the cutting edge of the beauty world, as well as build revenue in the process.
Lashes are playing a major role in the beauty and fashion industry. A site called Paperself.com has taken lash art to a whole new level by offering fashion-forward adhesive lashes that are made out of paper. This just goes to show that beauty conscious consumers are ready to bat their lashes at a new wave of beauty products. How can you, as a stylist, cash in on the lash craze? Do your research on topical treatments as well as extensions and see which one would fit in with your clientele.
Kim Kardashian may have been born with beautiful lashes, but it’s comforting to know that I—and your clients—can join the club whenever I want!
An ‘80s Fling For Spring
by Victoria Wurdinger on Monday, March 1st, 2010
Tonged curls look soft and loose within a strong shape. Hair by Xena Parsons for Xena’s Beauty Company, NY, NY.
David Bowie and Madonna meet Nancy Regan and Debbie Gibson? Time traveling ‘80s style is all about wishful thinking because the street hopes things get rich again. In the original decade, punk revival and the “hair bands” were all about an in-your-face reaction to politicians, while closer-to-God hair signified hope. By the end of the era, everyone wanted to look like a millionaire. Or now, like a Gossip Girl.
This is great news for curl because this time around, the takeaway is in the texture. On the 2010 fashion runways, the Chris Benz, J Mendel and John Patrick Organic shows all showed off spirals and waves, while Carolina Herrera got Orlando Pita to mix-up natural with glam in textured and twisted chignons. The ‘80s influence was in sophistication and shine, accessories (barrettes and beads) and asymmetry. Even low-at-the-nape chignons were worn offside, a much better look than that ‘80s ponytail that sprang out the side of your head.
Says Fabian Bordelon, owner of Fabian’s in Baton Rouge, LA, “Redoing the ‘80s will be fun. Eighties curl was frizz; now, frizz is intentionally avant garde. The new mainstream looks are lots softer than the older influences, but they still have a strong perimeter. The square bob is a perfect example. Texture is more controlled, and as part of the trend, every manufacturer has a perm that can be used on curl to make it bigger or more refined. If you don’t have great home-styling skills, cuts are stronger; if you’ve been home-schooled in styling by a salon, disconnected cuts are right.”
An ‘80s redo requires volume and glam styling. Styling by Darlene Martinez for Xena’s Beauty Company, NY, NY.
Glam rock hair had its ‘80s chemical romance, and it’s no different today, as the flat iron gives way to curl softeners and smoothers, presented as “cold” versions of Japanese Thermal Straightening. (Basically, they’re thio-based products.) Going out on a limb, we can bet you’ll never see Jheri curls again; styling products meld right into the hair to moisturize and give shape without grease, as evidenced by the slew of dry oils on the market.
You can’t talk ‘80s influence without mentioning big hair and bold color. These, too, favor curl, which expands with ease and embraces panels and color blocks, as opposed to micro-lights. Explains Dennis Bartolomei, who owns a namesake Chicago-based salon, “Hair is more expanded today, like the early ‘80s Sauvage cut and the curly wedge. The shapes are wider with narrow napes and heavy bangs—the cut controls the curl. For color, blocking shows-off shades much better. Color is always multi-dimensional: like nature, with extra punch.”
What else can you expect from hair that’s a little more haute than hip? Here’s what hairdressers say is Too Hot:
She’s Like the Wind
For volume and movement, braid, heat and release. Styling by Darlene Martinez for Xena’s Beauty Company, NY, NY.
Eighties hair was heavily rock-influenced, and 2010 trends were first showcased at the Grammy Awards. Talk about a difference! Volume was big but it went sideways, not up. Says Xena Parsons, owner of Xena’s Beauty Company in NYC and a Framesi educator, “Everyone at the Grammys had bend and wave. There’s no flat ironing now; curl can be crimped or braided and then let out. We like to use the tongs, which are U-shaped, as opposed to circular. Hair is styled with creamy pastes that disappear into the hair; they aren’t hard or sticky.”
For tight Afro curl, Parsons says texture is either left natural and cut geometrically or it’s softened and “redesigned” with a mild straightening product, like Framesi’s SILIS, which uses thio in a coconut-crème base. Longer hair is windswept or beachy. Says British-born educator Don Francis, who cuts at Marie Bove in NYC, “For the most part, hair is still very lose and mid-length-to-long, or quite short. The short trend will gain speed with the masses, like in the early ‘80s when the gamin crop was big. We just need another Mia Farrow to spark it off. Commercially, lengths are longer but they’re pretty shapeless and neutral, so that hair can be thrown up with accessories like hair bands and clips—not those ‘80s banana clips! Volume is definitely starting to evolve to an everyday thing.”
Girls Just Wanna’ Have Fun
Within the opposing trends of strong geometric shapes ( for shorter hair, tighter curl) versus near-shapeless (for longer hair, looser curl), disconnection and asymmetry come into play for the latter. Parsons forecasts extremely strong asymmetrical styles and for longer, textured hair, various disconnected lengths with volume in strategic places. This playful approach also mixes up textures, with crimped sections being most reflective of ‘80s hair. On her recent trip from Italy, Parsons says there were no real “hair cuts,” just good shapes that flowed naturally from shoulders to the mid-back. Texture play adds the fun, with waves, crimps, braids and curls adding spicy variety to a single style. However, even textural mixes look pre-planned, with a classic twist.
Roll with it
Try an expanded finish, topped with a fat braid.
At iDaburn in Vancouver, B.C., Canada, (www.idaburn.com), stylists recognize that no two curls are the same. Explains the salon’s Floor Manager and Network Educator, Laura Garwasiuk, “This year more than ever, natural textures are in. They can range from barely there kinks to the tightest, most rebellious curls. Cuts are freehand, airy and inspired. It’s hard to put a limiting trend to what is going on in the curly world, there’s so much diversity. Our trends are in our consultations and executions. However, we especially love long waves or spirals with visual layers, cut and textured to each curl’s natural movement.”
Do That to Me One More Time
Au courant color may be more natural than Flock of Seagulls’ lightening-strike white, but it’s never a singular sensation. Here’s one thing everyone agrees on: roots are darker and ends are lighter. Bordelon adds color blocks by placing them to direct the eye, based on face shapes. Bartolomei says he lightens ends using balayage, but adds the end color to the underlayers only. It’s a big hit in Chicago, were Level 5 brunette gets feathered-on gold or pale gold end color. If you foil ends first, you almost always end up adding more balayaged pieces, he says.
Let’s Go Crazy
Also cool for curl is Parson’s Plasma technique, in which hair is placed on a Visibles see-through coloring strip before darker shades are added at the root area and lighter color is brushed-on the ends. Then, the hair is covered with another cellophane strip and the formulas are mashed together, while the colorist observes the borderline-free effect. Make it strong with whites and purple, or choose colors on the subtle side. The only requirement is that the color look opulent again…and Simply Irresistible.
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