Posts Tagged ‘Cutting’

10 Mistakes Stylists Make When Cutting Curlies

by CurlStylist on Monday, March 4th, 2013

When we asked curly clients for their horror cut-and-blow dry stories, we got an earful!

1. Thinned the hair/used a razor.

2. Gave a blunt cut.

3. Didn’t use a diffuser.

4. Ran fingers through the hair during the blow dry.

5. Dried the head upside down.

6. Cut the hair wet.

7. Cut too much; didn’t consider how much curl takes away from length.

8. Combed the hair while wet.

9. Used a small round brush to blow dry.

10. Used no product.

Now you know what NOT to do, use the education and suggestions in this issue and other texture education to focus on all the positive things you can do to be a curl expert and total beauty resource for your clients!

Read the digital version of Texture!

Clipper Cutting Curly Hair

by Ivan Zoot/The Clipper Guy on Friday, September 23rd, 2011

antonio gonzales

Cutting curly hair can be daunting for many hair cutters. Clipper cutting is a great option for curly hair, and your clipper is a great tool for facing these fears. Controlling lengths and creating workable shapes are the goals. Here are my top tips for clipper cutting curly hair.

1. Clipper cut curls dry

Curls expand and distort when hydrated. You will have a better idea of what you are taking, and leaving on the client, if you cut with clippers on dry curly hair. The client will wear their hair dry, so it is better to cut it dry so as to really “see” what you are creating.

2. Leave it longer

When choosing a guide comb, reach for one that is one size larger than your first instinct tells you to pick up. You may be surprised how short curls will clip down. Better to err on the side of too long than too short. After all, we can not put back what we take away.

3. Clip with the growth direction first

Curls will lay down in front of the clipper blade action when cut with the growth direction. This will leave a bit more length, which is what you want. Reverse and cut against the growth direction once you know how these particular curls will respond.

4. Minimize tension

Applying tension to hair stretches out the shape you are working with. Use wide-toothed combs and wide-toothed clipper blades to keep the hair happily in its natural position, state and shape. You will have better control of the shape you are creating if you are not distorting the hair by applying tension. Your hand and your fingers are your best wide-toothed comb.

5. Take large sections

Type 2 (wavy) and type 3 (curly) textures can be condensed into fewer, larger sections for control. This is called condensed cutting. When hair is shifted to a common point to be cut, length increases are created across the shape. Learn to use this concept to create movement within a curly shape. Short hair pushes longer hair. This is a basic principle of all hair cutting. Use this to move hair where you want it to go.

6. Clip and snip

Type 4 (kinky) hair can be individually snipped and clipped one coil at a time for real, wearable shapes. Remember, this hair type gets “short” fast. Take less.

7. Think silhouette

Creating great curly haircuts is about sculpting the overall outer perimeter shape. Step back and assess the balance and proportions of the overall shape.

8. Work from outside to inside

Define the outer boundary of the hair cut shape first. Address hanging length and perimeter lines. Go in and reduce weight, build volume and create shape inside the boundaries once you have set them.

    Try clipper cutting a curly client and share your experiences here. I hope to hear from you and, if you need any advice on the technique, I am here to help.

    How to Cut Curly Hair

    by Kateri Johnson on Thursday, August 18th, 2011

    Before You Begin

    When cutting curly hair, my first suggestion is to gauge the actual curl pattern in its natural state. During the initial contact, whether it be in person or over the phone, it is important that you request the client come in with dry hair, in the style that they would like to, or usually, wear their hair.

    Many times, curlies come in with wet, pulled back hair. This creates a few problems. Curly hair should be cut dry in most cases. As we all know, having the hair wet changes the elasticity of the hair and is the primary culprit for shrinkage after the cut, the one thing all curlies are afraid of.

    If the hair is pulled back into a pony, the hair on the surface is not only dry but it is molded into the straight position it was drawn back into. In addition, the center of the hair is damp, creating two different areas of elasticity.

    With the hair in the preferred position for the client, you are able to see the heavy areas, areas of multiple texture, mistakes from previous services and the general overall shape of the previous cut or outgrowth.

    During the initial meeting with your client, determine the products being used and past chemical services performed, professional or self-administered. Because you will be doing a dry cut, knowledge of any potential product build up, previous coloring or past damage should be taken into account when determining actual hair texture.

    All of these factors will alter texture, creating a false image of curl pattern, hydration and elasticity. A clarifier is often needed after a cut to ensure that the curl product you use to highlight the finished cut is allowed to properly perform.

    Now is the time to explain to your client what the proper products needed to maintain curl formation are, and how to hydrate the hair. With so many wonderful product lines on the market today, assess who your current curl clientele is and try out different companies to find the right fit.

    Newsflash: Drastic Cut Not Needed

    Curly hair does not always need a full cut! My favorite saying is, “We get bigger before we get longer,” meaning our hair gains volume before we gain length. Initially, the first cut may include shortening or dusting the length and trimming or correcting the layers.

    Once you have established your first cut, another full haircut may not be necessary. When a client wants to grow their hair out, alternating between trimming length and layers should be done.

    The area of the hair that receives the most damage is the outside surface and layers of the hair. The area of length, which is the nape area from below the occipital to the base hairline, does not receive as much of a beating. What is always perceived as damaged or dry is the outer surface.

    During the cut, the hair will become very big and very frizzy, which is great! While cutting, the hair is forming its silhouette. This makes it easy to see any heavy areas, ledges or blending points. You can see smooth lines forming, perfect curves and roundness. All of this is invisible during a cut when the hair is wet. Dry, the hair’s elasticity is balanced and there is no room for error due to shrinkage.

    Take a Hair Razor to Those Curls

    by Antonio Gonzales on Monday, August 8th, 2011

    antonio gonzales

    I was born in Trinidad in the height of a hurricane. I spent my childhood surrounded by the sights and sounds and smells of Carnival and the other Indian, African and Spanish festivals of the Islands. Loving the amazing costumes, I got my start dressing my sisters and doing their hair and makeup. An opportunity came up to work with Trinidad’s leading costume designers, makeup artists and hair stylists. After I left the Island, my career evolved with work in Munich, Los Angeles and now New York City. Here in New York, I am a stylist at the Orlo Salon in the Meat Packing district. Vogue magazine recently named me as one of the rising hairstylist stars in N.Y., I was awarded the best haircut of 2008 by shecky’s.com, Gotham Magazine called me a Shear Genius and Allure Magazine featured me as one of the best cuts 2009.

    See Antonio’s blog here.

    I am excited to address this topic because I know that there seems to be a rule forbidding us to use a hair razor on curls, but as hairstylists, the one thing we know is true, is that rules are broken all the time!

    First, let me remind you of two things:

    1. Creative people should never limit themselves by convention.
    2. Creative people should never be lemmings.

    Countless articles and videos featuring hairstylists swearing the razor should never be used on curly hair, wet (or dry) are boring and just plain wrong.

    I have seen so many hairstylists in salons do incredible work on curly hair delivering happy clients and flawless results. So let’s blow away (pun intended) any negative myths about the hair razor now.

    Don’t get me wrong, I have met many clients who have had very bad experiences with the razor, and I really felt their pain. But I have also met many with destroyed hair from highlights. Perhaps it is the hairstylist and not the tool or product that creates a bad look.

    Why Use a Hair Razor?

    Individuality is the most important asset any woman possesses, and curly hair can be her crowning glory. It’s an amazing canvas to work with and each head should be treated with individuality in mind. You have the amazing ability to make her feel like the best version of herself. So, what a pity it is to only consider using one tool to cut her curly hair.

    Hair Razors From the Past

    Scissors haven’t always been the only game in town! At the beginning of my career, I was taught to use the feather razor. You know, the one with the guard?

    I remember thinking I had discovered the moon with this tool, but was petrified by it. Years later, I can say the only time I use this razor is to rid the neck of fine hairs.

    Since then, they have created similar razors to the feather, some with a built in comb and some made from heavier materials. Today, you couldn’t pay me enough money to use the feather razor or any heavy tool to cut hair.

    What Razor Should You Use?

    It makes all the difference in the world to use the right razor, not only for the right hair type but the right one for you as an artist.

    The wooden handle straight blade is what I use on a daily basis. This razor is also what is used to shave the face – it’s that sharp! I get mine from Classicshaving.com. They are great supporters of hairstylists with great service.

    It does not have a guard, which allows for easy movement on the hair shaft with ultimate creativity.

    Feather razors have a guard in place to prevent cutting yourself, but it also limits your creativity and it’s almost impossible to not have the scraping effect. It also limits the way you cut hair because you don’t have use of the full razor blade. For me, it’s like having scissors, but only being able to use one blade.

    What Can a Razor Do That Others Can’t?

    With scissors we can slide cut, point cut and all the other techniques. If we are in a hurry, we can take thinning shears, but neither of these tools can do what a hair razor can.

    On curly hair, the straight razor is the most delicate haircutting tool you will ever use. It’s precise, gentle touch on the hair allows you to create layers, remove bulk and build graduation without blunt edges like the scissors. But, like anything else in life, everything in moderation!

    The only razor I use on my clients is the straight razor by Creative Razors. A practice of mine is to never use the razor on the same client cut after cut. If it’s a client that comes three times a year, then I say go for it. Otherwise, I use scissors in between to touch up the haircut.

    I feel the hair does not grow fast enough to warranty razor cut after razor cut. It’s important to leave the hair with some density for the client to manage. For us, it’s easy to blow-dry any cut, but for the client it can be difficult to manage the wispy ends.

    When Not to Use a Razor

    Like any other tool, this has to be used in the hands of someone who knows how to use them. It’s important to let common sense guide you in knowing when the razor is too aggressive.

    Ego is another thing to be aware of when using the razor. Always keep in mind that it’s not your hair and your client is by no means a hairstylist.

    I’ve seen hairstylists talk clients into a razor cut even when the client pleads with them not to. If the client is panicking, it’s a sure enough sign you should put the razor down and pick up the scissors.

    Know When to Put it Down

    Extremely fine hair should not be cut with the razor, and if you have a client that wants a more classic hair style and says, “I like my hair heavy without too many layers,” then that’s your cue to put down the darn razor!

    If you don’t know how to use the razor, then find out where you can go and get the needed education. Once this talent is acquired, you will become a versatile, effective stylist.

    Cutting Curly Hair: I Prefer Wet

    by Chair to Chair/Shannon McCarthy on Monday, December 20th, 2010

    shannon mccarthy

    Shannon McCarthy is a senior stylist and educator for James Joseph Studio and James Joseph Salon. James Joseph Salon and Studios are the most award-winning salons in Boston with more than 30 local and national awards. James Joseph Salon has been named one of the Top 100 Salons in America by “Elle” magazine, and James Joseph Studio has been named the Best Affordable Salon in Boston. James Joseph has also been one of the Salon Today 200 three times.

    When trying to decide the best approach for cutting curly hair, consider these techniques. There seems to be a lot of people who are under the impression that when getting their hair cut, a dry technique is always best. The only time that cutting curls dry is useful is for clients who are wearing their hair one way. If you are working with a client that is always styling straight then doing a dry cut on flat ironed hair would be desirable. If they want to be able to do both, employing this technique will give no insight to the way the hair is in its natural state. For a client who is always wearing their hair curly, start wet. Wet hair is easier to manipulate to see where the curl is falling. You can literally look and see how the weight proportions of the curl are falling.

    For shorter hair clients, you can move the hair around with your hands and see which way the curl would like to go. This is a great way to help us decide optimal shape for short hair. Whether working with bob lengths or head-hugging tapering, cutting the hair wet allows you to see how the curl is going to fall as it begins to dry. You can see the hair in its natural state and decide where to cut more or less hair. When working with long-haired clients, try to scrunch and fluff the hair to get a good idea of where the layers are falling. Curly hair also has a tendency to not curl evenly around the head. Unbalanced curl patters can become more apparent in longer lengths. Oftentimes the curls around the perimeter can hang and not be as tightly wound as curls in the crown and front of the head. Look carefully and asses where the curls are tighter and looser. Then you can decide how to approach the cut to enhance each curl pattern within one head. After diffusing you can then chip at the curl to detail and remove weight.

    Playing with asymmetry can be a great way to give some edge and interest to a head of curls. There is nothing that should be or is symmetrical about curls. Curls fall in different proportions all around the head. You can use this to your advantage. As stylists we often see curly hair that looks like a bell. This is the result of improper layering and shaping. This looks like all the weight is falling all to one place. Creating different layers in different parts of the head can do wonders for managing curls. Cutting around the face to give different curl proportions can allow the curls to flow in a soft and less structured manner.

    When trying to decide the best approach to your cutting technique, listen to your clients. Figure out what their ideal style is and approach your cutting techniques to suit that style. Mix wet and dry cutting. Start with a wet cut, and then detail with dry cutting. With this approach you will be thanked for addressing all of your client’s needs. Once she can trust and see what you are able to create employing many different techniques, we will start to break the assumptions of one technique being the best approach for many different, unruly, and versatile types of hair.

    Top 5 Tips for Clippering Short Using the 2-for-1 Blade Cutting Concept

    by Ivan Zoot/The Clipper Guy on Monday, October 11th, 2010

    ivan zoot

    Ivan Zoot is the director of education and customer engagement for the Andis Company and the founder of Zoot! Hair professional hair care products. Ivan identifies, recruits, trains and manages Andis’ team of professional beauty industry educators. Ivan continues to be a featured presenter at industry shows and events, sharing his unique blend of information, education and enthusiasm for clipper cutting and the entire professional beauty industry. Ivan’s background includes experiences ranging from salon ownership to achieving 3 Guinness World Haircutting records.

    I have mentioned that some of us have forgotten a lot about haircutting. It is not that we have forgotten it. It is that we have known it and lived it for so long that we no longer think about it. It is just a fact for us. We use our hands with these ideas ingrained in our heads. We do not need to consciously think about these things. When training a newbie, we might never remember to reference some of these important points.

    When cutting short curly hair with a clipper, one of the most important points to remember is that any one blade can deliver two distinctly different cutting lengths.

    Here are my top 5 tips related to this 2-for-1 blade cutting concept.

    1. Cutting with the grain: Cutting with the grain (growth direction) lays the hair down in the path of the clipper blade. This produces a distinctly longer length than the opposite.

    2.Cutting against the grain: Cutting against the grain lifts the hair with the leading edge of the non-moving blade. This lift-and-cut action results in a shorter remaining length on the head.

    3. Tipping the blade out / cutting with the corner: The ramped underside of the non-moving clipper blade provides another multiple length cutting opportunity. Levering the blade so only a portion of the toothed cutting edge makes scalp contact is a great blending technique.

    4. Cutting with guide combs: Points 1 and 2 above are not limited to the use or detachable blades. The principle holds when cutting with plastic snap-on guide combs.

    5. Using this concept to do better, faster fading: The rubber meets the road, or the hair leaves the head, so to speak, when this powerful knowledge is applied to cutting tight faded clipper cuts on textured hair. Cut from the top down with longer blades first. Initially with the grain and then lower down the head with the same blade in a reversed direction. Bingo! Fast and smooth, lineless fading.

    Tell us how you use these 2-for-1 length facts to cut hair every day whether you think about it or not.

    Happy cutting.

    5 Tips To Better Client Communication

    by Alicia Ward on Tuesday, September 7th, 2010

    We’ve all had clients leave our chair unhappy, and thought to ourselves “I wish I could have done that differently.”

    Client communications is the key to success in this business—we all need to be great listeners and communicators. If you ask a client what she wants in a hairdresser, she will tell you “a stylist who listens to and understands my needs.” If you ask a hairdresser what happened when a client leaves unhappy, he or she will tell you “there was a miscommunication” or “the client could not explain what she wanted.” Veteran stylist Anna Craig of Trashy Roots Salon & Spa has five tips to better client communication. Anna, a Pravana Artistic Educator and DevaCurl Specialist, with more than nine years of experience, is extremely passionate about client communication and says if you follow her steps, your clients won’t ever leave the salon unhappy again!

    Here are 5 easy tips to better your client communication.

    1:Confidence! You are the expert, so take control of the situation. Be clear and confident. Never let the client take over the appointment by asking you to see the swatch book or the scissors you will be using. You need to keep the control during the appointment and assure your client that you know best. Make sure you sound and act confident. You know your colors, brands and supplies, so make sure you act like it. If you are unsure about something with your client consult another stylist in your salon, but always be in charge.

    2:Consult! Always do thorough consultations prior to the appointment. Some clients lack good communication skill,s so it is your job to ask lots of questions to ensure you deliver the right results. Always ask clients to bring photos of the color, cut or style she is looking for. Ask her about her hair history. Make sure you are aware of what they have done to your hair. Talk to her about her expectations and make sure they understand the reality of the situation. Know their hair type and discuss it with them. Ask them about what products they are using. The more questions the better. The consult should range from 15 to 30 minutes for large changes and around 10 minutes for minor changes.

    3:Document! Document your client’s history. Writing down everything you’ve done for your client will ensure a smooth appointment next time. Keeping records of your clients makes the client confident in you and your work. Not only does this allow you to be better prepared for their next appoint but it also helps you keep your clients happy and coming back. This is a great way to book you next appointment “I just noted everything we did today in your account so at your 5 week touch up we will get the same results “.

    4:Educate! Educate your client about what you are doing. The more you can tell the client, the better your communication will be. Talking your clients through things helps her feel confident and part of the process, which enables trust. Keeping your clients involved is key because it opens the channels of communication, garnering better results.

    5:Products! Know the products your client uses to ensure her results will last. Most clients are uneducated about professional products and the role they play in long-term maintenance. Talk to your client about her current products; recommend products and other maintenance options. You know the benefits of the right products, so do not keep your client in the dark. Share your product knowledge so she can love their hair longer.

    Say goodbye to unhappy clients and client miscommunication—follow these 5 steps to get the better your client communication!

    Short and Spring-y: What is in it for you, the stylist?

    by Ivan Zoot/The Clipper Guy on Monday, April 12th, 2010

    ivan zoot

    Ivan Zoot is the director of education and customer engagement for the Andis Company and the founder of Zoot! Hair professional hair care products. Ivan identifies, recruits, trains and manages Andis’ team of professional beauty industry educators. Ivan continues to be a featured presenter at industry shows and events, sharing his unique blend of information, education and enthusiasm for clipper cutting and the entire professional beauty industry. Ivan’s background includes experiences ranging from salon ownership to achieving 3 Guinness World Haircutting records.

    Last posting we discussed the top five reasons why short, springy and spring-y looks are great style options for your clients. This time we will examine what is in it for you, the curly-inspired and curly-focused stylist.

    Below are my top five reasons why it makes sense for stylists to sell their curly-haired clients on shorter cuts.

    1. Cutting hair off, going short, is fun. This can provide you a great creative outlet. Just trimming ends can get pretty boring pretty fast. Creating unique shapes and bringing change to clients is exciting. This is one of the key reasons many of us were drawn to the hair business in the first place. It was fun to style Barbie’s hair, but many of us went for the scissors pretty quickly.

    2. Short hair services take less time. You can and will turn the chair faster when more of your clients have less hair. The shorter their hair gets, so do the length of their visits with you. More turns in a day equals more cash in your pocket.

    3. Short hair comes back faster. There is no secret in the math. Short cuts grow out and lose their shape sooner. The client is back on the porch for more. We can be busier and fill more of our appointment spaces by increasing client visit frequency.

    4. Short hair buys and uses more take home hair care products. There are fewer ponytail days for the client with a short snappy style. They have to do their hair. It takes less time to do… and that is one of the reasons why the short-haired client loves her short crop. From the need to cleanse daily to get product out, to the need to do their do every day, putting product in, the short haired client is a product junkie. This is great for your business.

    5. Short hair sends more referrals. People are more likely to notice and comment on a great cut. People notice shape, movement and structure in great hair. Long is great, but long is just long. Clients are more likely to refer friends to more creative cutters, too. Show off your skills and you will be rewarded with more opportunities to show off your skills.

    So we get more clients who buy more stuff, sending more friends to us and who spend less time in our chair but do so more often… did I get all that right? It sounds to me like it all adds up to more business and more dollars and makes more sense. I know there was a reason I like to cut curly hair shorter. I hope you do as well.

    Once you agree with all the reasons why short and curly is the way to go you need to convince the clients to play along. Next posting we will discuss the top five ways to sell curly clients on going short.

    Master the Curl

    by Antonio Gonzales on Monday, April 5th, 2010

    antonio gonzales

    I was born in Trinidad in the height of a hurricane. I spent my childhood surrounded by the sights and sounds and smells of Carnival and the other Indian, African and Spanish festivals of the Islands. Loving the amazing costumes, I got my start dressing my sisters and doing their hair and makeup. An opportunity came up to work with Trinidad’s leading costume designers, makeup artists and hair stylists. After I left the Island, my career evolved with work in Munich, Los Angeles and now New York City. Here in New York, I am a stylist at the Orlo Salon in the Meat Packing district. Vogue magazine recently named me as one of the rising hairstylist stars in N.Y., I was awarded the best haircut of 2008 by shecky’s.com, Gotham Magazine called me a Shear Genius and Allure Magazine featured me as one of the best cuts 2009.

    See Antonio’s blog here.

    From the very beginning of my career I have always been told what I should and should not do when it comes to cutting curly hair. There were so many don’ts that I was afraid of even touching curls. Being the artist who loves a challenge, I decided that I would not allow any hair texture to limit me or any don’ts to hold me back. I invite you to join me in mastering the curl. When cutting curly hair we know that we all have our favorite techniques and beliefs. I want us to step out of the box and open our minds to cutting curls every way possible by using the scissors and razor, and providing a texture and style that our clients will love.

    WAYS TO CUT CURLY HAIR WET WITH THE SCISSORS

    At the beginning of my career this is the technique that I noticed my colleagues using the most. The approach in terms of sectioning was the same as cutting straight hair. The big difference is when cutting curly hair wet we use less tension and avoid stretching the hair, so that when the hair dries it’s not too short. It’s also important to pay attention to cowlicks in the nape and crown when sectioning the hair. Too much tension on cowlicks when the hair is wet could cause you to loose your shape by being shorter when the hair is diffused.

    WHEN USED INCORRECTLY
    Cutting straight lines on wet curly hair with the scissors will create blunt ends. The result is a style that’s difficult to manage in coming weeks for the client. I recommend additional techniques like point cutting, slide cutting and razoring to be used on the wet hair to soften the curl by removing bulk and adding texture.

    WAYS TO CUT CURLY HAIR WET WITH THE RAZOR

    Now let’s talk about the approach for cutting wet curls with the razor. The one thing that’s the same as with cutting with the scissors is less tension to the hair. Because of the strength of this tool you may want to adjust the sectioning a bit for your desired shape (you be the judge). Using the razor gives great ability to create softness to the shape and remove bulk making the curl come alive. The result is a haircut that grows out better and lasts longer.

    WHEN USED INCORRECTLY
    Because the hair is wet it clumps together and the visibility of bulk in the hair is lost, which can result is the removal of too much hair. The razor on wet hair also moves easily and we, the stylists, can underestimate the amount of hair being removed, resulting in a weaker shape or structure that’s hard to manage. I recommend keeping in mind that less is more, you can further remove bulk when the hair is dried.

    DRY CURLS WITH THE SCISSORS AND RAZOR

    This technique is generally done after the hair has been cut wet and diffused into the desired style. The technique is amazing on both fine and thick hair. Using the scissors or razor, gently cut into the shape and further remove bulk, giving lift, improving the shape and hair texture. Feel free to gently section the hair after styling so there is more access to bulkier areas. The part of the hair that frames the face can benefit best from this technique, allowing you to highlight the weaker features of the face. If using scissors cut with the shape of the curl, almost sliding around the curl where needed. When using the razor search for thicker curl, gently lift the curl and remove the heaviness. Remember the idea is to further remove bulk while maintaining the shape of the cut.

    WHEN USED INCORRECTLY
    If too much dry cutting is done you could loose the entire shape. Be conscious of the fact that the hair has already been cut. You probably want to be less aggressive when cutting the hair wet leaving room for more cutting when the hair is dry.

    CURLY HAIR DRIED STRAIGHT AND CUT WITH THE SCISSORS

    This is done when we know that the client generally wears their curly hair straight. When approaching the blow dry, ask the client how straight he or she wears their hair. You do not want to cut the hair when it is flat-ironed if the client is only going to blow dry their hair. We also know that the hair is longer because it is blown out so leave a little more length when cutting to compensate for their inability to get the hair as straight as we can. Always work with super-thin sections on fine or thick hair. This allows for softer lines and better movement in the end result. I recommend additional techniques like point cutting and razoring to soften the wet curl by removing unnecessary bulk.

    CURLY HAIR DRIED STRAIGHT AND CUT WITH THE RAZOR

    Like some of you, when this was recommended to me in the past, I would grab my tools and run the other direction. This is easily one of the most difficult techniques in my career. The advantages are endless!! Compared to cutting with the scissors (blunt ends), this technique allows you to work with the hair in a way that I have never experienced before working with Orlando Pita. On dry hair the lines are much cleaner than on wet hair with precision and control. The layers are blended well because you can see exactly what’s happening without the heaviness of cutting wet hair. And most importantly the client can wear their hair curly or straight resulting in a cut that lasts longer.

    When hair is wet, the ends are heavier and the hair stretches, using a razor on this texture can result in over-cutting. When the hair is dry and the right technique is used, the ability to get an almost-straight line with control leaves me speechless. Not many stylists in our industry has mastered this technique. Orlando is the first person that I have worked for that has been able to train me skillfully in this technique.

    REMEMBER:

    Safely stepping out of the box when approaching hair is one of the best things we can do for our careers. This has been the strongest asset to my career.

    Mizani How-To: Long, Layered Cut

    by CurlStylist on Monday, February 22nd, 2010

    Step 1

    Divide the hair into 4 sections. Directly below the occipital area, create an inverted V-shape by parting the hair from ear-to-ear. Secure the remaining free hair with clips.

    Step 2

    To establish the length, pull down a section in the center of the back nape and part it off. When cutting naturally curly hair, allow the curl to gently spring back after you’ve determined the desired length. Dampen the hair with water, as needed, to maintain a consistent curl pattern throughout the cut. After visually establishing the length, release tension again to allow the hair to contract before cutting. To maintain shape, always cut at the beginning or end of the curl, not through the middle of the “C” or “S” pattern.

    Step 3

    After establishing the guide, move side-to-side, and cut to extend the guide. Continue working up the head, bringing down ½-inch, diagonal partings and cutting them to the guide, until the back section is completed.

    Step 4

    To layer the back, take a long, vertical section in the center back. Elevate at a 90-degree angle from the head, as shown, and cut to blend to the back guide.

    Step 5

    This is the new traveling guide for layering. Continue cutting vertical sections to the traveling guide. Using a 45-degree angle, work toward one side, then from the center to the opposite side, until the entire back is layered. Cross check your work.

    Step 6

    Establish the length at the sides by connecting the side to the previously cut guide in the back. Begin behind the ear and move forward, cutting the guide to create a diagonal-forward line.

    Step 7

    Continue to work up the section, cutting to the guide. When you reach the top, repeat on the opposite side. Layer both sides, using vertical sections, as you did in back.

    Step 8

    Blend the existing front fringe to the sides by slide cutting to the ends. Repeat on both sides, then cross check your work.

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