Texture Management Around the Globe
by Victoria Wurdinger on Tuesday, April 19th, 2011
In Curaçao, Yeddy likes to experiment with products that she discovers at beauty shows in the U.S.
Yeddy’s brightly colored salon and academy building reflects Curaçao’s Dutch influence.
Curl Control in Curaçao
One of the Caribbean islands of the Lesser Antilles off the coast of Venezuela, Curaçao has a population of about 130,000. There are many ethnicities and curl patterns represented, water and electricity are very expensive (as is importing products), and the majority of the population has curl in various patterns and lots of it. As a result, island stylists are among the best in the world at blow drying—and the fastest, because it saves electricity.
In the capital of Willemstad, Modesta Sluis-Rosario de la Cruz, who simply goes by “Yeddy,” is CEO of Academy Yeddy Trading Inc., which operates Kapsalon Academy Yeddy and distributes hair products to salons, pharmacies, stores and supermarkets.
Like many of the island’s inhabitants, who are descendants of former slaves from Africa, Yeddy herself is a transplant. Born in the Dominican Republic, she started doing hair at 14 in a Santo Domingo neighborhood nicknamed “Vietnam.” She worked in a narrow alley aside her parents’ house with “nothing but a broken mirror—and buckets of water for hair washing.” Even with limited resources, she discovered she was superb at the craft, so after secondary school, she attended beauty school. License in hand, she began traveling, and ended up in Venezuela at the age of 19.
“I worked in big, famous salons, as the only black stylist in a still very segregated environment,” recalls Yeddy. “I worked hard, but pay was not always that good, so I also started trading clothes that I bought in Curaçao. On one of my trips, I got stuck on the island; to be able to pay for the hotel, I offered to do the owner’s hair. She liked the results so much, she phoned others so I could do their hair, too.”
Soon after, Yeddy opened a salon on Curaçao. In 1985, she began importing hair products and her distributorship evolved into a successful business.
According to Yeddy, the island’s daytime temperatures range from 26 to 34 degrees Celsius (78 to 93 Fahrenheit), but since there is always a refreshing breeze, “We do not have really humid periods.”
The majority of women relax their hair, for which Yeddy likes the Chicago-based Curl Essations line because, “Essations relaxers leave the hair with a better structure compared with other relaxers I have worked with.”
2011 Spring Hairstyle Trends: Curly Hairstyles to rock this spring
by Alicia Ward on Monday, March 21st, 2011
The recession dictated hairstyle trends last year. Remember the low-maintenance locks and embrace of the frizz for big texture? Savvy women attempted to cut costs (pushing appointments, do it yourself products and color) by embracing their natural texture and color and getting creative with products. Spring 2011 looks to promise some new looks and some spending. 2011 is all about strong cuts and color. And we’re not talking about any change of shade, but a dramatic, head turning change. Strong colors like blonde and red are being seen everywhere. Styles and cuts are seeing big change too!
First let’s talk color, bold color is theme this year! Red and blonde are the hottest colors this season.
Red is hot for spring along with sun kissed locks. Everyone is rocking red tones, whether your natural color is dark or light, adding a red undertone will make your hair super stylish!
Check out more curlies here.
Red type 2 hair
Red type 3 hair
Red type 4 hair
2011 Hair Styles: Trends from the hair show!
by Alicia Ward on Tuesday, March 15th, 2011
Do you know where trends come from or wonder why every magazine is telling you that something is the latest and hottest look? It’s because of events like America’s Beauty Show. America’s Beauty Show is where thousands of salon professionals like you will converge to learn from top industry pros about the latest products and techniques in hair, skin and nails. Then what you learn will be available at your salon – thus, creating the trends.
This year at America’s Beauty Show there were lots of hot new trends. Below we detail the hottest trends for curlies.
Make your client’s dark locks a thing of the past with the new hot trend of platinum curls! Everywhere you looked woman and men were rocking platinum locks. If you want to be give your client a bold look this season offer them a shade of platinum to kick their color up a notch.
Big bold red is very hot this season. The red of this season is a deep almost maroon and looks amazing on olive and dark skin tones – however, those with plate skin can pull it off too! This color will make your client stand out and add some serious dimension to their curls.
Cut it Short!
Say goodbye to those long layers and hello to short curl bobs! The bob has always been a classic style for curlies but it’s being taken to new extremes this year with fun layers and super short styles. Is your client ready for a big change? Give them a super short style today. Short styles allow your clients to show off their other features and play with accessories.
Texture: The Season of Texture!
by Modern Salon on Wednesday, September 1st, 2010
By all appearances, fall 2010 will go down in fashion history as “the season of texture.” Dozens of notable fashion designers have eschewed straight strands, embracing instead all manner of curls, coils, crimps, waves and teased clouds of hair on their catwalks.
On the West Coast, style setters are also advancing the texture trend. Nearly every red carpet is adorned with sexy, romantic textures, made popular by stars like Taylor Swift, Miley Cyrus, Kate Hudson, Charlize Theron and Beyonce.
“Clients today are requesting anything but flat hair,” says Lina Shamoun, a 2010 North American Hairstyling Awards Texture Finalist from Kitchener, Ontario.
And regardless of whether clients are starting out with natural curl, wave or pin-straight strands, everyone has texture options this season!
Natural Curl: Embrace and Refine
“Curly hair is coming into its own,” says Titi Branch, co-owner of Miss Jessie’s Products and Salon in New York. “Twenty years ago, we wouldn’t even be talking about curly hair because people straightened their curls.
“Now, women want to embrace their natural, healthy curl. Michelle Obama even wore curls to a state dinner recently— for her to do so really validates the beauty of the look.”
But curly can also be high maintenance, admits Branch, which is why the current trend is a smoother, looser curl pattern.
“This allows a woman to keep her curl,” she explains, “but refine it.” At Miss Jessie’s, this elongated curl is achieved with the salon’s proprietary “Silkener” service. The technique involves a sodium hydroxide relaxer and a method of manipulation that stretches, yet doesn’t straighten, the hair.
“The result,” says Branch, “is hair that behaves like natural hair when it’s wet—before it dries and shrinks. It’s wash and go—it cuts styling time in half.” To support natural curls, Branch recommends Miss Jessie’s Curly Pudding treatment—a perennial favorite that combines macadamia and almond oil, aloe and shea butter for shine, plumping and moisture.
Curl definition is also imperative for Shawna Parvin’s curly clients, and the most modern approach, says the Aquage educator, NAHA 2009 Texture Winner and 2010 Hairstylist of the Year nominee, is to mix it up—random curl sizes, directions and even amounts of definition. “I’m telling my clients to start with a gel on damp hair,” she says, and comb it through scalp to ends. “Then wind sections of varying sizes, in every direction, so they look like little snakes. Don’t touch the hair until it’s completely dry, then move it around and even pull a few random pieces apart so there’s some fuzz mixed in with the curl. That’s what keeps curl from looking like the ’80s.”
Options are important for women with any texture, and naturally curly clients will always want blowouts for occasions when their hair must look polished, says Dickey, owner of New York’s Hair Rules Salon and hair products company. What makes blowouts look fresh this season, he says, is a voluminous, soft, Mad Men-inspired look, with lots of flattering movement around the face.
“Bone straight doesn’t work for most women,” he comments. “Waves and curls look softer on anyone—it’s ‘instant youth.’”
Making Waves—Keep it Raw
When it comes to creating curls and waves, the perfectly formed curls are evolving into a rougher, more raw-edged texture, says Chad Seale of Salt Lake City, another 2010 NAHA Texture finalist.
“Waves will be more vertical, looser, less constructed than we’ve seen in past seasons,” agrees Darby Shields, Associate Artistic Director of ISO International.
When it comes to these vertical waves, there’s also a new silhouette worth noting, adds Seale, namely, a flatter crown with more volume through the midlengths and ends. Seale loves this texture and shape on shorter-length bobs—actress Charlize Theron has been seen sporting the look. To permanently create this casual texture on tightly curly hair, Shields steers clients to the ISO Maintamer.
“This formula gives stylists plenty of control,” she explains. “Leave it on for five minutes, and it eliminates frizz but maintains the curl pattern. Leave it on for 30 minutes and it straightens more completely.”
To produce loose, ropey, “Gisele” texture with a thermal iron, Shields first mists strands with a combination of ISO Color Preserve Thermal Shield Spray and Daily Shape Working Spray, then wraps sections of hair vertically around the outside of a curling iron, simultaneously twisting each section onto itself like a rope. Once the hair cools completely, she gently releases the twists, revealing “a spiral, vertical wave with lots of internal torque.”
The flat iron is another excellent tool for creating this type of natural-looking body and texture. Many of today’s irons feature beveled plates, which give them the versatility to straighten and shape hair. One of Lina Shamoun’s favorite strategies is to divide hair into thin, one-inch sections, place the flatiron at the root, wind the section once around the iron and draw the tool through to the ends.
“When you release it, the hair will fall into a soft, flowing wave,” she explains.
The beach trend—textured, separated, sea-tossed strands—has generated a number of beach spray products that are great for supporting these looks or for use as stand-alone body boosters.
Color for Curl
With celebrities like Sarah Jessica Parker and Jennifer Aniston leading the way, the hottest hair color trend of the moment is the graduated “I spent last month on the beach and now it’s growing out” effect. Characterized by deeper roots and lighter midshafts and ends, it’s a deliberate technique to approximate “vacation regrowth.” The look is perfect for the twists and turns of textured hair, as long as the technique is done correctly.
Seale believes baliage is the best strategy—this freehand hair-painting method allows the colorist to place the tint exactly where the sun would kiss each strand, namely, on the rounds and fullest parts of each curl and in an unstructured fashion.
“So if your client wears her hair curly,” Seale advises, “don’t blow her hair straight and do a color weave. You’ll get six different colors on one curl and that doesn’t work.”
Additionally, says Seale, opt for high-lift permanent colors when baliaging curls, rather than bleach. “Bleach tends to swell the hair and cause it to become dryer,” he believes.
This hair type is already susceptible to dryness, he adds, so it’s better to use hair color that tends to impart less damage. Shields agrees that baliage is the best way to achieve the dark-to-light look, and advises stylists to work with fairly large sections. “Apply your color to each section randomly,” she suggests. “And for your application pattern, let the trajectory of the waves guide you—dropping off of the crown. Try some ‘peek-a-boo’ foils under the surface, too.
“All of this will create a purposeful, grown-out look, which clients today love since it’s chic and it allows them to stretch their retouching dollars!”