Curl Expert Creates New Curl Line

by Michelle Breyer on Wednesday, May 13th, 2009

For years, curl expert Elie Gerdak listened to his clients talk about their need for products that would keep their hair nourished and stylish between salon visits.

With 30 years of experience as a hairdresser — specializing in curls — he decided to create the dream line that they were asking for. The result is Curl Definesse, a collection of products designed to define and nourish waves and curls.

“The collection combines Mediterranean style with a specialized flair to create bouncy radiance and serious curl envy,” says Gerdak, owner of the two Virginia Elie Elie Salons in Winchester and Tysons Corner Center.

Gerdak spent more than a year working with the chemist the to get the formulas exactly right. The Curl Definesse line includes Daily Shampoo, Conditioning Creme Rinse, Moisture Shampoo, Moisture Conditioning Creme, Leave-in Conditioning Spray, Elixer Boucle Gel for fine to medium curls, Elixer Boucle gel for medium and thicker curls and Polishing Gelee.

The Curl Definesse line

Gerdak’s passion for curls began as a child, growing up in Lebanon where curly hair is common. The European master stylist and international curl coiffeur has spent his career developing cutting, styling and care techniques to help curls look their best. His work has been featured in major beauty magazines throughout the world.

In addition to the Curl Definesse line, Gerdak also has created the Moderne for Classic Coifs, a care collection of shampoos and conditioners.

The two new products are available at the two Elie Elie Salons as well as at the company’s web site.

Why Do Products Stop Working?

by Michelle Breyer on Tuesday, May 5th, 2009

You’ve probably heard it dozens of times from clients. They finally find their Holy Grail styling product or conditioner. It gives us the shiny, defined ringlets we’ve longed for. Then, overnight, it stops working. Their curls turn to frizz. Their hair feels like straw. They want you to tell them why?

Has their hair become immune to the product?

The unanimous answer is no. If a product isn’t giving the same results it once did, the culprits could be product buildup, hormonal changes, environmental damage and even the weather.

“There are many reasons why products can seem to stop working,” says curl expert Christo of Christo Fifth Avenue.

A major culprit is product buildup, and improper cleansing.

“You can have too much of a good thing, especially with products designed to control and give weight to curls,” says Ethan Shaw, a curly hair specialist at Ann Kelso Salon + CitySpa in Austin, Texas. “Eventually they can leave a substantial film on the hair.”

A clarifying shampoo. or a vinegar rinse, should be used once or twice a month to remove buildup from products. Products that contain oil, silicones and waxes are especially susceptible to buildup, creating a barrier that can prevent products from doing what they are supposed to do.

Jonathan Torch of the Curly Hair Institute in Toronto, Canada, says protein can also affect how products work over time.

“Some proteins can cause the hair to become brittle, and can cause breakage if they build up,” Torch says. “The smaller the protein molecule, the deeper the penetration into the hair. The larger the molecule, the easier it is for it to buildup as the protein adheres to the outside of the hair shaft.”

Seasonal changes can have a major impact on the effectiveness of products.

“The weather does have a huge effect on how your looks, and how products seem to work,” Shaw says. “Humidity, or lack thereof, can give or take away curls.”

Many times, people may not realize their hair texture has changed over time. It may become coarser, curlier or thinner. Hair tends to change every seven years.

In some cases, the length or style of the hair may change over time, requiring different types of products. A light gel that may have worked perfectly in a short curly style may not be heavy enough for longer ringlets.

“Just think of how different your hair was compared to when you were a kid,” Shaw says. “It’s natural for your hair to get more or less curly, and more or less coarse, especially with gray hair.”

Because of that , the formula of a person’s styling products will have to change as well as the way she uses them, Christo says.

If you’ve been using the same products for several years, and have noticed a change in how they work, consult with your stylist. There may be different products better suited to the changing needs of your hair.

Ouidad, of the New York curl salon Ouidad, believes it’s a fallacy that people need to change their products over time — a creative marketing strategy perpetuated by product manufacturers trying to sell more products. She said she constantly tests her products on her clients and on herself, and she believes good products continue to perform over time.

“When there is a change in the way it works, it is most likely from an extenuating circumstance, such as a medical condition or a chemical process such as color or straightening,” Ouidad says.

Helping Clients Embrace Their Curls

by Michelle Breyer on Monday, May 4th, 2009

Stylists can play a big role in helping clients embrace their texture.

Every curly can relay a salon horror story. Be it the unsatisfactory cut, the use of the wrong products, or an altercation with a “diva” stylist, it’s no wonder so many curlies straighten their tresses so they don’t have to deal with the “madness” surrounding curly hair care.

But a stylist can play a key role in helping her clients embrace their texture rather than curse it. We asked five stylists to weigh in on how they get their clients to rock their curls, kinks, and waves.

The first thing any stylist should do is to reassure their clients about their hair, and help them see its beauty.

“Sometimes, curly clients want their hand held,” says Ron King of Bo Salon. “They want to know that it’s okay to have curly hair.”

Often, someone with curly hair doesn’t even know they have a natural curl pattern until their stylist tells them.

But making the transition from going from straight to curly might seem daunting to someone who has spent her life hiding her texture from the world. Mahogany, a stylist at Head to Toe Salon in Minnesota, finds the best solution is to teach her client how to walk the line between straight and curly before adjusting 100 percent to a curly lifestyle.

After a consultation to make sure you and your client have similar expectations, the next step is to give a curl-enhancing cut. What that cut is depends on the stylist.

“It’s not about the amount cut off, but the technique,” King says. “I cut curly hair from the inside out because not one curl is alike. When it’s cut straight, it’s too even and you are often left with a round or geometric shape.”

Taylor Weatherford of Curltopia Salon in Georgia uses the C-cut developed by curl expert Kristen James. She says it enhances the natural curl pattern and shapes the face. Barbara Morin, a Devachan certified stylist from Electra’s Beauty Lounge, suggested the dry Deva cut developed by Lorraine Massey.

For those stylists unfamiliar with curly hair types, there are plenty of places to get education.

“Curly clients want to know you can give them soft touchable curls,” Morin says.

Products — and training in how to use them — also are key to helping clients learn to love their curls. This includes shampooing, conditioning and styling products.

“You have to break the barrier of thinking that you need to cleanse your hair everyday,” says King of Bo Salon. “The curly cuticle is porous, and by allowing the natural oils of the scalp to come back to the hair, you are helping to tame and smooth it.”

Most important, says Mona Harb of Lofty Salon & Wellness Center in Vienna, Va., is to send a positive message that they are lucky to have the head of hair they were given.

“I tell them to embrace it, love it, because it’s yours,” Harb says.

Deep Treats for Textured Hair Types

by Teri Evans on Friday, April 3rd, 2009

Treat your winter-dry hair to a deep conditioner and you’ll be rewarded with healthy tresses this spring.

A blustery winter can take an especially tough toll on textured tresses. Now as spring approaches, clients will be searching for ways to protect and prepare their curls for the warmer months to come.

“Deep conditioners fill in the cracks in the surface of the hair, so there’s no friction between the strands and the hair is smooth,” says Titi Branch, Owner of Miss Jessie’s Salon & Products in Brooklyn, N.Y. “A deep treatment can make all the difference in how your hair handles.”

“It’s a moisture issue,” adds Brent Hardgrave, a curly stylist at Salon 124 in Roswell, Ga. “As soon as you step into the humidity, whatever moisture is not in your hair, your hair is going to find it. If you practice preventive medicine on your hair, you have more opportunity to battle the humidity.”

Curl-centric stylists say the key is knowing how to apply the treatment— and making sure it includes the right ingredients for your curl type. Here, expert advice and a deep-treatment guide for every curl type.

WAVY

Curl Type: 2

Ingredients: Wavies want to look for amino acids for curl repair — since this curl type is most likely to go back and forth between curly and straight — as well as a lightweight, conditioning ingredient like coconut oil, according to Hardgrave, also a Redken artist.

“Coconut oil is extremely moisture-rich, but it won’t weigh your hair down,” Hardgrave says. “Oleo-amido, an amino acid, will also repair the hair from stretching and give it moisture. Every time you pull curly hair you’re breaking down the bonds in the hair, so you need to replenish where the bonds have been broken.

How often: Once a week for dry climates, and up to three times a week in humid environments, according to Hardgrave. “A daily curl refiner or leave-in, anti-frizz detangler, also with coconut oil in it, will really help,” he says.

Timing: Five minutes is usually long enough. If you’re multitasking, you can apply the treatment in the shower and just leave it in while shaving your legs. Or, you can spritz your waves with water, apply the treatment and leave it in while working out or cleaning the house. “The heat from your body that comes from being active will help,” Hardgrave says.

Amount: Less is more, especially for wavies with fine hair. Focus on the ends, not the scalp.

Application: For wavies, start at the mid-shaft of the hair and work your way down. Always use a wide-tooth comb in the shower or dampen the hair and then apply, to avoid breakage. “Don’t just glop it on the top of the head and comb it through,” says Hardgrave, noting that’s a common mistake.

CURLY

Curl Type: 3s

Ingredients: Curl experts agree that shea butter is your best bet, with just enough weight and slip to it so the detangling process works so much easier. Finding a treatment that includes natural oils will also help, according to Anna-Lee, a stylist with Chaz Dean Studio in Los Angeles, Calif. “Your ends are the most porous and need the most hydration,” Anna-Lee says.

How often: For shoulder-length curlies, twice a month; once a week for longer locks. Of course, every curly is unique, so apply the treatment more often if your curls are especially dry or brittle. “Longer hair requires a lot of care with deep treatments because it’s older, so you want to protect the hair and apply as much deep treatment as you possibly can,” Branch says.

Timing: At least 10 minutes.

Amount: Again, it depends on the length and density of your textured tress.

“You want to have enough coverage,” Branch says. For shoulder-length curlies, a golf-ball size amount of treatment should be enough, and simply add more for longer lengths.

Application: Start a quarter-inch from the scalp and work your way down. Always use wide-tooth comb only on wet hair or your fingers.

“If you can sleep with the treatment, and rinse it out in the morning, even better,” Anna-Lee says.

TIGHT COILS AND KINKS

Curl Type: 4s

Ingredients: “This curl type is very kinky so you definitely want shea butter, which is a very rich emollient,” Branch says. “It allows the hair to be slippery, easily detangled and helps the strands align with one another, so there’s an elimination of frizz.”

Cetyl alcohol, which is a natural fatty alcohol (not the drying kind that often comes to mind), is also recommended as an emollient and lubricant to the hair shaft. “Cetyl alcohol gives the hair a lot of slippage, which is going to create smoothness on the surface of the hair,” Branch adds.

How often: At least once or twice a week. “No deep conditioning is too much for Type 4,” Branch explains.

Timing: 20 minutes. For an even deeper treatment, use a heating cap or apply the product while in the shower; the steam will make it more effective.

Amount: For every four inches, add at least a quarter-size amount of treatment. “Type 4 tends to be the most dense curl type and you want to use enough product to get good coverage,” Branch says. “There’s more strands per square inch on a tighter, kinkier coil then there is on a Botticelli type of curl.”

Application: Again, avoid the scalp and start a quarter-inch from the roots, working your way down. Make sure the treatment is applied evenly throughout and remember to concentrate your effort on the ends—especially important for Type 4 curls, which are the kinkiest and driest of textures.

“With kinkier hair, don’t rinse the treatment completely out either,” Branch adds. “Leave in about one-tenth of the treatment to protect and coat the hair.”

Finally, always finish with a cool rinse to seal the hair shaft, lock the moisture in and show off a smooth, shinier — and healthier — curl.