by Rachel Peters on Monday, November 2, 2009
New trends are like waves. From the newsstands and gossip blogs, trends barrel down to us, knocking us to our feet and leaving us scrambling to discover how they are created. Our clients come to us asking for the new look and we do our best, secretly thinking to ourselves, “There’s got to be a better, easier way to do this.” The trend evolves and each new style of it is more interesting and intricate than the next. We study the red carpets and buy the latest styling tools to try to catch up with the wave. And as it ebbs back, giving us time to take the class or practice the technique, we notice just ahead in the distance another wave is swelling, this one more innovative and beyond our scope than the last.
This series is dedicated to keeping you, the stylist, up to date on the latest trends and techniques. We want to make it easy to acquire, share, and critique. We’ll provide you with the tools and give the links to classes and tutorials, making it easy for you to be in the loop.
New Trend: Soft, beachy waves without the damage or commitment
Think of Nexture as a temporary perm. It adds soft, beachy waves to the hair and lasts about twenty shampoos. It infuses sodium bonds into the hair shaft, swelling it to create more bounce. Unlike traditional perms, it does not alter existing bonds in the hair nor does it rely on harsh chemicals to create a curl pattern. Nexture is recommended for clients with fine, limp hair — 1s and 2s. See NaturallyCurly.com’s hair types.
ISO’s texture expert, Francie Sorem, sat down with CurlStylist to talk about Nexture. Her recommendations? Wrap hair in large magnetic rollers, fasten with standard metal clips, and apply Nexture as you would any perm. Avoid using Nexture on hair that is overly processed or damaged. ISO does make a Nexture treatment for color-treated hair, but it should only be used on hair that has been lifted with high lift color, not overly bleached or processed. Sorem says Nexture is an easy service to recommend to a client wanting wavy hair without the damage or commitment. Daily heat styling with irons or rollers can cause long-term damage, and traditional thio perms wreck the hair’s integrity. Nexture gives the curl without ruining the hair. Average cost: $200
For clients with more curl, ISO created Manetamer, a gentle straightener containing no thio. It relaxes the hair by adding protein. Just comb in the straightening solution followed by the neutralizer. It takes about 15 minutes and makes a great add-on service in the salon. Both Manetamer and Nexture can be found online or in professional beauty supply houses.
Ouidad’s Softening System
Famous for her work with curly hair, Ouidad has once again created a solution for clients looking to manage tightly wound curls without straightening or damaging hair. The softening system loosens curl patterns and re-forms curls without using chemicals. It uses about half the processing ingredients as other straightening systems and lasts about 3-4 months. Ouidad recommends using the treatment all over or as a “spot softener,” evening out a client’s curl pattern.