Antonio Gonzales: Let’s Bring in the Big Boys!

by Antonio Gonzales on Monday, August 23, 2010

I was born in Trinidad in the height of a hurricane. I spent my childhood surrounded by the sights and sounds and smells of Carnival and the other Indian, African and Spanish festivals of the Islands. Loving the amazing costumes, I got my start dressing my sisters and doing their hair and makeup. An opportunity came up to work with Trinidad’s leading costume designers, makeup artists and hair stylists. After I left the Island, my career evolved with work in Munich, Los Angeles and now New York City. Here in New York, I am a stylist at the Orlo Salon in the Meat Packing district. Vogue magazine recently named me as one of the rising hairstylist stars in N.Y., I was awarded the best haircut of 2008 by shecky’s.com, Gotham Magazine called me a Shear Genius and Allure Magazine featured me as one of the best cuts 2009.

See Antonio’s blog here.

Here’s my second installment of tools you can’t live without.

The Flat Iron

When I use a flat iron I want a professional tool that consistently delivers quality results. After using many irons over the past 15 years, I’ve seen versions in all shapes and sizes. Here is a list of qualities I look for in a flatiron:

1. Variable heat. The ideal iron achieves a consistent level of heat at various temperatures.

2. Quality ceramic plate. The plate has to be all ceramic; this helps protect the client’s hair without chipping or flaking after a period of use.

3. Longevity. I need a flat iron capable of standing up to a bridal party of nine, providing the styling power to deliver straight hair, bouncy or loose spiral waves, and anything else I need to get quick results under pressure.

4. A warranty. After spending a considerable amount of cash on a top-of-the-line model, this is an absolute must.

Can a flat iron actually meet all my requirements? Oh yes, baby! The T3 Single Pass and the T3 Mane Tamer are two models that offer that and so much more. Here’s the breakdown.

For both models, the plate is made of baked tourmaline ceramic for cuticle-sealing power that keeps frizz away longer. If you’re not familiar with tourmaline, it is often referred to as “the electric stone” for its ability to emit ions and infrared heat. The plate also offers a snag-free glide with the ability to be extremely creative in delivering a wide range of styles.

As for the heat, both irons achieve 450 degrees with adjustable heating. I also use one or the other when performing my keratin treatments, and both deliver the perfect finish.

Extras: An added bonus is that T3 also offers a nine-foot cord (making it super-easy to move around the client), a heat-resistant mat, and a two-year warranty. To top it off, the line also utilizes world voltage, so if you travel like I do, you’ll avoid blowing fuses in any number of exotic locales around the globe.

The biggest difference between the two T3 flatirons is that while the Mane Tamer can be used on wet or dry hair, the Single Pass is only appropriate on dry. Both irons, however, are professional. Though please remember that the various heat levels should be employed when using. In other words, be careful with any hot tool; be sure you’re using it correctly and safely.

The Curling Iron

I have a friend who’s been by my side for a long time. She’s been with me from the beginning until now, and has seen me sweat, laugh and cry. This friend—although she’s not one of the big names—certainly holds her place in my kit. Her name is Hot Tools. I have other curling irons, too, but this baby is my go-to iron for all hair types and lengths. I prefer a Marcel iron rather than those with the spring clip… I’m a bit old-school, I guess, and love the sound my Marcel makes: clang, clang, clang. They have since improved the materials and now use tourmaline, ceramic and ionic, but my good old “Gold Hot Tool” curling iron still delivers and gets the job done. If you’re on a budget and want a curling iron that really performs, then this is the one you should choose.

The Razor

For the past 10 years I’ve been using the Feather razor, and my techniques have changed from razoring only wet hair to now razoring dry as well. I have used many different razors, and the Artist Club DX is easily the best i have used. Here’s why:

1. The fit. When you hold this razor, the first thing you notice is the way it fits in your hand. No matter your hand’s size, it fits very comfortably, all due to the material and design. The exotic tropical teak-wood handle and solid stainless steel blade with a satin finish make this razor a beauty. It does not matter if you’re cutting with the tip or the middle of the blade, this tool is designed to open and close easily. Also, if you’re doing a dry cut, creating soft long layers or a blunt bob, it will always deliver consistent results.

2. The weight. Due to the considerable weight of this tool, it actually takes away the pressure from the wrist by adding a bit of a push without being too aggressive to the hair. It’s about allowing the weight of the razor to work for you … adding weight to the blade the user gently cuts the hair. In other words, if you’re using a lighter model, it can make for a “not so perfect haircut,” caused by over-cutting from too much pressure from the hand.

3. The blade. The blade is designed with a very fine edge that consistently delivers a great cut until it needs replacing, which is a very simple process. There are several different blades to choose from. I recommend using the Feather Pro Guard blades, which come 15 per pack. Another aspect that sets this tool apart is the length of the blade itself: It’s a bit shorter than most I’ve used in the past. The shorter blade gives better cutting manageability. Keep in mind that this instrument is made to give an excellent shave on skin, so on hair it’s very gentle when used correctly. Another advantage is how easy it is to clean this tool; the blade holder can be completely disassembled for cleaning.

The Comb

This is the unsung hero tool of our industry. Without combs, well . . . our fingers just wouldn’t be enough! When looking for a great comb, here are three brands that I’ve come to respect, and highly recommend.

Matsuzaki: On wet hair, I generally use the this brand of combs that come in five different sizes. My two favorite of the five are the YS 334 and the YS 337. These Japanese creations are light and easy to hold. They are also heat-resistant (when using irons, etc.). As a matter of fact, I was referred to this brand way back when I was a student at Vidal Sassoon, and I still love it years later.

Cricket: When I’m working on the perimeter of my bob cuts (wet or dry), I use Cricket’s Silk combs Pro-20 and Pro-25. Because of the sizes here are a little bigger, they allow for some movement of the hair between the teeth of the comb. They come in seven different sizes, so if you have a full set, you can change combs depending on the hair thickness and the type of cut you’re performing at the moment.

Beuty Pro: These combs are the best for dry cuts, especially on thick hair. They allow you to comb through the hair easily, as these models really glide through the hair. The wide teeth separate the hair, allowing you to easily get to the thicker areas (as you comb) to remove bulk. They’re also static-free and very strong.

I look forward to addressing more of my favorite tools in future articles. Stay tuned in for my next article, in which I’ll discuss soliciting client feedback.