Many manufacturers tout the natural ingredients in their products, and, of course, who doesn’t like natural ingredients? But what exactly does grape seed do for the hair? What are the benefits? We’ve put together a handy primer of some of the hottest natural ingredients on the market right now, with information about what they’ll do for your hair.

Açaí: The combination of acai berry’s vitamins, minerals, phytonutrients, EFAs and chemical constituents come together to greatly benefit the hair and skin. Açaí oil is said to deeply moisturize hair, add luster, and enrich hair color. Açaí also helps eliminate frizz.

Aloe vera: Aloe vera gel is a boon for us kinky, curly gals. It helps fix damage from heat appliances. Aloe vera is smoothing as it is soothing, controlling without stiffness. It is used as a treatment for hair loss because it stimulates new hair production and can even fight against Alopecia. It works very well as an anti-frizz product.

Argan: Argan oil—or Moroccan oil as it is sometimes called—is gaining attention in the haircare industry for its ability to soften unruly hair while offering protection from the elements. It is easily absorbed into the hair and promises to eliminate frizziness as well as provide intense conditioning to all hair types. It is known to promote hair growth by strengthening weak hair prone to breaking off, and with its rich vitamins and minerals, it promotes healing to the skin, nails and the hair shaft.

Avocado: For hair, avocade is used in hot-oil treatments and for deep, hair conditioning. Avocado pulp can be whipped smooth and applied to face or massaged into the hair for a quick and easy softening, conditioning and moisturizing mask.

Chocolate/cacao: Savoring cacao’s numerous health benefits is a nourishing treat for skin and hair—adding shine, vibrancy and improving the general health of both. By using chocolate and cocoa butter products on your hair and skin, you get to enjoy the delightful chocolatey aroma and reap the benefits of antioxidants, vitamin and mineral.

Grape seed: Grape seed extract is sometimes used to treat hair loss and to stimulate hair growth. It’s also used to combat dryness. Grape seed extract is a very strong antioxidant.

Jojoba: Jojoba acts as a humectant on the hair and scalp by sealing it to prevent moisture loss. All hair types will benefit from jojoba but hair that is dry and damaged will benefit the most, as jojoba coats and seals the hair cuticle. This maintains moisture balance, essential for healthy hair. Jojoba extract is also said to remove buildup.

Horsetail: If applied topically on hair, horsetail is known to help strengthen and restore shine in your hair. Horsetail adds silica to the hair, which can help prevent hair loss.

Monoi Tiare: The union of Tiare (Gardenia Tahitensis) with highly refined Tahitian coconut oil produces aromatic oil that penetrates and hydrates the hair and skin. It seals the surface of the scalp, hair cuticle and skin, preventing dryness. It is renowned for protecting the skin and hair against salt water and sun damage. The oil is hypoallergenic, moisturizing and nourishing. The Tiare extract has excellent rejuvenating and conditioning benefits for the scalp and hair cuticle. Minor scalp irritations and itchy scalp is alleviated.

Macadamia nut: Macadamia oil reduces wrinkles and dryness. It is a natural moisturizer and emollient (emollients attract and trap moisture from the air). Macadamia oil is light and non-greasy so it is easily absorbed into the hair shaft and skin. Another gift of macadamia nut oil is that it contains proteins, and its vitamin E contributes skin-care benefits and long shelf life. The high count of mono-unsaturated fatty acids makes the oil mimic the sebum (naturally produced oil on scalp and skin which protects it from damage). All of these qualities contribute to its reputation as a superb hair and skin treat, as well as an elixir for healing scars, sunburn, wounds and irritations.

Murumuru: Murumuru is especially useful to people with kinky, curly or wavy hair because of its softening ability. Often, kinky, and some types of curly, hair feels coarse. Murumuru coats coarse curls, making them more supple and manageable. Products containing an appreciative amount of murumuru oil or extract are well-suited to textured curls. Murumuru products moisturize the hair with lasting hydration, controlling frizz and defining curls.

Pomegranate: Pomegranate oil is preferred for hot oil treatments or pre-shampoo soothing for frizzy, over-processed hair and for general conditioning for kinky, curly and wavy hair. Pomegranate oil will enhance the appearance and feel of hair, help with detangling and will moisturize the hair shaft.

Seaweed: Seaweed is an emollient, defining and softening curls. Seaweed feeds the shafts and the ducts of the scalp to help improve the health of the hair. It has been said that the thick, black, lustrous hair of the Japanese is partly due to their regular diet of brown sea vegetables such as arame. Research has shown that minerals are important to healthy hair growth, and arame has a high mineral content.

Shea butter: Shea butter is remarkably high in unsaponifiables — up to 11% (this varies), giving natural UV protection. This is one of the reasons it is beloved by Africans whose skin and hair is almost constantly exposed to sunny and sometimes harsh weather conditions. The UV protection is useful elsewhere as well. Having some UV protection enables our hair to retain its natural vibrancy, color treatments and softness. The emollient, (softening) quality of shea butter makes it useful for hair and body care, as it is easily and quickly absorbed when applied topically. For most types of hair, shea is a good hot oil treatment, wherein it is melted, cooled slightly, then applied warm to the ends of hair where split ends occur and to the scalp. Agroforestry and environmental organizations fear over-harvesting of shea nuts could contribute to land degradation, eventually leading to desertification. This is one of the reasons some experts also advocate use of alternative butters such as mango butter, which is almost identical in efficacy and usage.

Sunflower: Sunflower oil contains vitamin A, D, and E and a good amount of protein for skin and hair; it’s a high-quality source of zinc (protein is very good for most types of hair, vitamin E is a great antioxidant and zinc is protective against the sun’s rays).

Tamanu: Tamanu oil’s ability to regenerate and act as an anti-inflammatory and antibiotic make it a welcome addition to the curly hair care arsenal, particularly in protective and healing formulas for those who use heat or chemical formulas on their locks. Many curlies seek natural ingredients to help with hair growth or to stop breakage—in this area tamanu oil shows promise. Not only is tamanu oil recommended for skin disorders or scalp burns, but its regenerative properties make it the oil to reach for when trying to recover from hair loss.

Stylists and salon owners will have a chance to see Phyto’s new Subtil permanent hair color at a V.I.P. event March 27th in Chicago during America’s Beauty Show.

The event will feature a runway show featuring Subtil hair color and celebrity Stylist Andy LeCompte, who will provide stylist tips.

Tickets for the event, which is open to salon owners and professionals, are $90. The ticket price is redeemable toward product purchases and includes access to the after party, open bar and appetizers. There also will be a raffle entry to win a $7,500 opening order.

The event will at 8 p.m. at the W Hotel City Center in downtown Chicago. The after-party starts at 10 p.m.

Benefiting from Phyto’s latest botanical research studies, Subtil Botanics is a revolutionary permanent hair color range of 12 shades that contain 15 to 81 percent natural pigments extracted from the following tinctorial plants: Indian wood and Brazilian wood, madder, broom and calliopsis.

A stylist himself, Phyto founder Patrick Alès created this range with low concentrations of ammonia (0.76% to 3%), without p-Phenylenediamine (PPD) and resorcin, reducing the risk of allergies both for the stylist and the client. Each formula respects the hair and scalp’s eco-system making Subtil Botanics safe to use, yet remarkably effective fully covering white and gray hair.

In addition to the introduction of Subtil Botanics, Subtil is a complete hair color range featuring more than 150 permanent and demi-permanent shades, highlight creams, primary colors, color boosters and ancillary products including technical shampoos, developers, oxidizers and a 7 tone lightening paste. Support tools such as brushes, tools, and capes are also available.

“The addition of color rounds out the offering to U.S. salons and perfectly complements Phyto, and the new Phyto Professional styling line available exclusively in fine salons,” says Raphael Yousri, President of Alès Group, USA. “As we streamline our business, we look forward to working closer with professional stylists, creating a more cohesive professional community and supporting colorists and stylists alike in ways we weren’t able to before.”

Purchase tickets here.

I was born in Trinidad in the height of a hurricane. I spent my childhood surrounded by the sights and sounds and smells of Carnival and the other Indian, African and Spanish festivals of the Islands. Loving the amazing costumes, I got my start dressing my sisters and doing their hair and makeup. An opportunity came up to work with Trinidad’s leading costume designers, makeup artists and hair stylists. After I left the Island, my career evolved with work in Munich, Los Angeles and now New York City. Here in New York, I am a stylist at the Orlo Salon in the Meat Packing district. Vogue magazine recently named me as one of the rising hairstylist stars in N.Y., I was awarded the best haircut of 2008 by shecky’s.com, Gotham Magazine called me a Shear Genius and Allure Magazine featured me as one of the best cuts 2009.

See Antonio’s blog here.

As we all know (hairstylists and clients alike), the razor has been given a bad name, especially for curly hair. I am here to say that it is not the razor, rather the person using the razor. The razor is a tool from the heavens, literally. Its ability to be so gentle and precise on curly hair surpasses scissors with results that leave curls speechless.

Here are four important topics covering the do’s and don’ts to help you better understand this amazing tool.

1. The type of razor

The Feather Razor
I recommend not using a Feather Razor on curly hair. This razor comes with a guard, which limits the use of the blade. The guard is for us not to cut ourselves or the client, but it takes away from the magic of the razor and is far more aggressive. If you see someone using this razor, you can witness its scalping action. Yes, some of us are strong with this tool but with a lot of practice we take it one step further and use a Classic Razor.

The Straight Classic Razor
Now this baby is what I’m talking about. The difference is like cutting top sirloin with a good steak knife versus a butter knife. This razor can be used with such precision that a haircut can maintain its shape and last long. There are so many parts to that single blade—I can twist my wrist and get results that no other cutting tool can give me. I cannot only remove bulk with this, but I can also create amazing lines for length that’s soft without being shredded.

However, there are times when a pair of scissors is called to do the job. That’s when we professionals decide what’s best for the hair type and the look we are trying to achieve.

2. Thinning Shears

This tool is good for finishing a man’s haircut (very final step), not for curly hair. It’s the number one mistake that makes curly hair weak and lose its shape quickly. Because it goes deep into the hair, it is targeting the structure in a line across the section of hair. Keep in mind that curly hair needs to have a foundation in order for it to move like real hair and grow out well.

3. Razor on Wet Hair

Yes, this can be done. When it’s done the focus is on the size of sections, sectioning, texture and hair type. Remember, when hair is wet it stretches and is extremely vulnerable to over cutting. This is also when the Classic Razor is the client’s best friend allowing the stylist to have full control and cut the hair without aggression.

4. Razor Cutting on Dry Hair

This is where serious cutting skills come in. My boss and mentor, Orlando Pita, recently taught me to approach a Classic Razor cut on dry hair when the hair is blow-dried smooth. I’d never seen this done before and I’m grateful to have learned from one of the hair masters. When cutting curly hair that is blown out, the focus is on whether the client is wearing his or her hair straight only or straight and curly, as well their ability to master the styling themselves.

Start doing your research for a hairstylist that’s strong with the classic straight razor and go in for a consultation. As you can see, there are many ways to approach cutting curly hair wrong and right. So it’s about you the client finding a hairstylist (referral preferably) to cut your curly hair.

I wish you beautifully razor cut curly hair!

Mizani this month has launched its True Textures line, which is designed specifically to care for the growing number of people who choose to embrace their natural waves, curls and kinks.

True Textures addresses the unique characteristics of each curl type with specific products to meet individual needs, such as moisture, frizz control, and curl definition.

The True Textures Collection consists of five products. For hair care, indulge in three products—a sulfate-free shampoo, intense moisturizing mask and cleansing conditioner to cleanse and soften the hair. Jojoba oil and vitamin E provide intense hydration, and apricot oil and fruit sugars seal the cuticle and infuse shine.

In celebration of the new line, Mizani is are offering you the opportunity to win one of 25 Official Mizani True Textures Salon Exclusive Starter Kits (retail value more than $300).

Enter now!

Tigi’s Curls Rock collection has long been a favorite among stylists who work with waves, curls and kinks.

But Tigi, never been a company to rest on its laurels, is always searching ways to improve its products. This month, the company unveils its Catwalk Curlesque collection, which improves and expands upon the successful Curls Rock line.

“We wanted to revamp the line, improving the products and taking other products that work (with texture) and adding them to the line,” says Carlos Cintron, Tigi’s creative education development director. “The things people loved about Catwalk Curls Rock are still there, but better.”

Carlos Cintron

Designed by Tigi’s international creative director Anthony Mascolo and the Tigi International Creative Team, the Curlesque Curl Collection uses advanced marine biology ingredients—a fusion of kelp, algae, cucumber water, seaweed and sea fennel—to help enhance waves, curls and kinks. This unique combination of ingredients is called the Catwalk Aquacomplex.

“With the Curlesque Collection, we are giving hairdressers the tools to create perfectly formed curls on their clients, and at the same time giving them a retail range with great fragrances, amazing packaging and effective formulas,” Mascolo says.

The Curlesque collection is a part of the company’s strategy to relaunch its entire Catwalk line into different collections. Last year, Tigi introduced the Your Highness Volume collection. Curlesque is the second new collection to launch. Each new collection is divided into three categories that coincide with TIGI Catwalk’s suggested style building system: Prep It, Work It, and Perfect It.

The Curlesque Prep It products include Defining Shampoo, Hydrating Conditioner and Leave-In Conditioner. The Work It products include Curl Amplifier, Lightweight Mousse and Strong Mousse; and Defining Serum. Tigi recommends that the new Defining Serum, its Perfect It product, be added to all of products to enhance the results.

“This new range of curl products is going to give us a complete arsenal for styling, from the tightest curl to loose natural waves,” says Heath Grout, a member of Tigi’s international creative team.

Curl Amplifier

The curl category is especially important to Tigi because. Curls Rock has been one of its most popular product lines, and more than 60 percent of the population has wavy, curly or kinky hair, Cintron says.

Too often, Cintron believes curly hair is misunderstood.

“You have to understand the type of texture it is—is it wavy, curly or kinky?” he says. “One size does not treat all. Each type must be treated differently. The right products and the right cut make all the difference.”

Cintron says the Curl Amplifier is his Holy Grail product when it comes to working with texture, and it has only gotten better with the relaunch with the addition of Tigi’s Aquacomplex.

“I can’t do without the amplifer,” he says. “It’s my No. 1 tool for working with curls because it doesn’t leave it crispy or crunchy. It joins everything together and seals the cuticle, leaving beautiful, shiny hair. It’s the same product, but better.”

Cintron provided Curlesque tips for every texture type.

Wavy

Cintron recommends putting Curlesque LIghtweight (for fine to medium hair) or Strong Mousse (for medium to coarse hair) into your hand and adding in some Curlesque Defining Serum. Apply it wet hair and comb through with a wide-toothed comb. Then diffuse it for extra volume and texture.

Curly

Cintron recommends using the Curlesque Leave-in Conditioner. Then, if you want to enhance the curl, he suggests using the Curl Amplifier mixed with a few drops of Defining Serum. Then diffuse it. For a looser curl, he says exclude the Amplifier from the mix.

Kinky

For kinkier textures, Cintron likes to mix the Leave-in Conditioner, Ampflier and the Defining Serum. That gives the hair shine and hydration to prevent it from looking dry. It also keeps the ringlets looking soft. He suggests letting kinkier hair types dry naturally because the hair can look unruly if overdried.

The timing is ideal for the launch of Curlesque, says Cintron. Super-straight looks have been replaced by voluptuous textured looks, he says.

“People don’t want to spend a lot of time on their hair,” he says. “They should enjoy their hair. They should work with their texture and have fun with it.”

Hot texture trends for the fall include longer, graduated curly bobs, longer shag shapes and long layers, with a “bit of disconnection.”

For longer hair, especially curly hair, if it’s too uniform, it can look too bushy,” he says. “I like to remove weight so it may be longer here and shorter there. It’s more appealing to the eye rather than looking round.”

No matter what the style or curl type, Curlesque provides the tools to help maximize the potential of waves, curls and kinks.

“Creatively, the new curl collection offers hairdressers endless possibilities to experiment with shape and texture to perfect hair with natural movement,” says Marco Iafrate, a member of Tigi’s international creative team. “The product range is the answer for hair with curl, from its wash and care to the styling and finishing.”

Tonged curls look soft and loose within a strong shape. Hair by Xena Parsons for Xena’s Beauty Company, NY, NY.

David Bowie and Madonna meet Nancy Regan and Debbie Gibson? Time traveling ‘80s style is all about wishful thinking because the street hopes things get rich again. In the original decade, punk revival and the “hair bands” were all about an in-your-face reaction to politicians, while closer-to-God hair signified hope. By the end of the era, everyone wanted to look like a millionaire. Or now, like a Gossip Girl.

This is great news for curl because this time around, the takeaway is in the texture. On the 2010 fashion runways, the Chris Benz, J Mendel and John Patrick Organic shows all showed off spirals and waves, while Carolina Herrera got Orlando Pita to mix-up natural with glam in textured and twisted chignons. The ‘80s influence was in sophistication and shine, accessories (barrettes and beads) and asymmetry. Even low-at-the-nape chignons were worn offside, a much better look than that ‘80s ponytail that sprang out the side of your head.

Says Fabian Bordelon, owner of Fabian’s in Baton Rouge, LA, “Redoing the ‘80s will be fun. Eighties curl was frizz; now, frizz is intentionally avant garde. The new mainstream looks are lots softer than the older influences, but they still have a strong perimeter. The square bob is a perfect example. Texture is more controlled, and as part of the trend, every manufacturer has a perm that can be used on curl to make it bigger or more refined. If you don’t have great home-styling skills, cuts are stronger; if you’ve been home-schooled in styling by a salon, disconnected cuts are right.”

An ‘80s redo requires volume and glam styling. Styling by Darlene Martinez for Xena’s Beauty Company, NY, NY.

Glam rock hair had its ‘80s chemical romance, and it’s no different today, as the flat iron gives way to curl softeners and smoothers, presented as “cold” versions of Japanese Thermal Straightening. (Basically, they’re thio-based products.) Going out on a limb, we can bet you’ll never see Jheri curls again; styling products meld right into the hair to moisturize and give shape without grease, as evidenced by the slew of dry oils on the market.

You can’t talk ‘80s influence without mentioning big hair and bold color. These, too, favor curl, which expands with ease and embraces panels and color blocks, as opposed to micro-lights. Explains Dennis Bartolomei, who owns a namesake Chicago-based salon, “Hair is more expanded today, like the early ‘80s Sauvage cut and the curly wedge. The shapes are wider with narrow napes and heavy bangs—the cut controls the curl. For color, blocking shows-off shades much better. Color is always multi-dimensional: like nature, with extra punch.”

What else can you expect from hair that’s a little more haute than hip? Here’s what hairdressers say is Too Hot:

She’s Like the Wind

For volume and movement, braid, heat and release. Styling by Darlene Martinez for Xena’s Beauty Company, NY, NY.

Eighties hair was heavily rock-influenced, and 2010 trends were first showcased at the Grammy Awards. Talk about a difference! Volume was big but it went sideways, not up. Says Xena Parsons, owner of Xena’s Beauty Company in NYC and a Framesi educator, “Everyone at the Grammys had bend and wave. There’s no flat ironing now; curl can be crimped or braided and then let out. We like to use the tongs, which are U-shaped, as opposed to circular. Hair is styled with creamy pastes that disappear into the hair; they aren’t hard or sticky.”

For tight Afro curl, Parsons says texture is either left natural and cut geometrically or it’s softened and “redesigned” with a mild straightening product, like Framesi’s SILIS, which uses thio in a coconut-crème base. Longer hair is windswept or beachy. Says British-born educator Don Francis, who cuts at Marie Bove in NYC, “For the most part, hair is still very lose and mid-length-to-long, or quite short. The short trend will gain speed with the masses, like in the early ‘80s when the gamin crop was big. We just need another Mia Farrow to spark it off. Commercially, lengths are longer but they’re pretty shapeless and neutral, so that hair can be thrown up with accessories like hair bands and clips—not those ‘80s banana clips! Volume is definitely starting to evolve to an everyday thing.”

Girls Just Wanna’ Have Fun

Within the opposing trends of strong geometric shapes ( for shorter hair, tighter curl) versus near-shapeless (for longer hair, looser curl), disconnection and asymmetry come into play for the latter. Parsons forecasts extremely strong asymmetrical styles and for longer, textured hair, various disconnected lengths with volume in strategic places. This playful approach also mixes up textures, with crimped sections being most reflective of ‘80s hair. On her recent trip from Italy, Parsons says there were no real “hair cuts,” just good shapes that flowed naturally from shoulders to the mid-back. Texture play adds the fun, with waves, crimps, braids and curls adding spicy variety to a single style. However, even textural mixes look pre-planned, with a classic twist.

Roll with it

Try an expanded finish, topped with a fat braid.

At iDaburn in Vancouver, B.C., Canada, (www.idaburn.com), stylists recognize that no two curls are the same. Explains the salon’s Floor Manager and Network Educator, Laura Garwasiuk, “This year more than ever, natural textures are in. They can range from barely there kinks to the tightest, most rebellious curls. Cuts are freehand, airy and inspired. It’s hard to put a limiting trend to what is going on in the curly world, there’s so much diversity. Our trends are in our consultations and executions. However, we especially love long waves or spirals with visual layers, cut and textured to each curl’s natural movement.”

Do That to Me One More Time

Au courant color may be more natural than Flock of Seagulls’ lightening-strike white, but it’s never a singular sensation. Here’s one thing everyone agrees on: roots are darker and ends are lighter. Bordelon adds color blocks by placing them to direct the eye, based on face shapes. Bartolomei says he lightens ends using balayage, but adds the end color to the underlayers only. It’s a big hit in Chicago, were Level 5 brunette gets feathered-on gold or pale gold end color. If you foil ends first, you almost always end up adding more balayaged pieces, he says.

Let’s Go Crazy

Also cool for curl is Parson’s Plasma technique, in which hair is placed on a Visibles see-through coloring strip before darker shades are added at the root area and lighter color is brushed-on the ends. Then, the hair is covered with another cellophane strip and the formulas are mashed together, while the colorist observes the borderline-free effect. Make it strong with whites and purple, or choose colors on the subtle side. The only requirement is that the color look opulent again…and Simply Irresistible.

I was born in Trinidad in the height of a hurricane. I spent my childhood surrounded by the sights and sounds and smells of Carnival and the other Indian, African and Spanish festivals of the Islands. Loving the amazing costumes, I got my start dressing my sisters and doing their hair and makeup. An opportunity came up to work with Trinidad’s leading costume designers, makeup artists and hair stylists. After I left the Island, my career evolved with work in Munich, Los Angeles and now New York City. Here in New York, I am a stylist at the Orlo Salon in the Meat Packing district. Vogue magazine recently named me as one of the rising hairstylist stars in N.Y., I was awarded the best haircut of 2008 by shecky’s.com, Gotham Magazine called me a Shear Genius and Allure Magazine featured me as one of the best cuts 2009.

See Antonio’s blog here.

Every day in the salon when I work with clients and their curls, this is a concern frequently expressed. So I felt this was the perfect forum to answer this question for all our readers.

First, allow me to distinguish between these two methods.

Balayage

Balayage is a hair-coloring technique likened to painting. The word itself is French for “to sweep,” a reference to the “sweeping” motion of the brush while applying color to the hair. If you look at curly hair in the sunlight, the one thing that catches your eyes is the ability of the curls to reflect light in certain areas.

When coloring curls, I love to recreate this effect in the hair. It’s almost as though the colors are dancing through it, which makes sense since balayage is a French word with Latin roots (no pun intended)—“ballare” is Latin for dance.

Foiling

Most women who have had their hair highlighted or low-lighted have had foils in their hair. It’s a very normal process using aluminum foils to apply color in sections throughout the hair in order to create brightness and dimension.

Balayage for Curly Hair

Being a “foil man,” I feel that there is a woman for either technique. However, for curly hair, balayage is certainly the best for many different reasons.

When I balayage, I can work with the shape of the head and the face, carefully taking thin sections of hair from the head as I proceed.

Keep in mind that the head is round, but foils are square.

I can choose the size of highlights as I go through the hair and I can place them close to each other, be they thick or thin.

Foiling is not as versatile, and if you attempt to use different sizes per foil, it’s not nearly as natural. I can use different colors and place them right next to each other. It’s a more natural way to get “sparkle” in the hair color by creating dimension.

With foils, I am limited to safely working with one color per foil.

For a brunette going lighter, I can avoid the immediate hairline and the hair part while painting the hair. Then, as it grows, there is almost no visible root line. You can then wait up to four months before your next application.

Foils can be too intense in the wrong hands.

I will conclude now with a question I get all the time—is balayage damaging to the hair?

My answer remains the same—“as with foils, it all depends on the hairstylist.”

I wish you and your clients beautiful curls!

Britney Huinker

Every wonder how stars get their shiny, sexy tresses? Stars like Halle Berry, Jennifer Aniston and Selma Hayek have been jumping on the Brazilian Blowout bandwagon.

Keratin treatments have taken the country by storm, becoming one of the hottest chemical services, and the Brazilian Blowout has become one of the leaders of the pack. For curly girls, Keratin Treatments provide a gentler way to straighten locks, loosen curls and zap frizz.

“This isn’t a trend,” says Brazilian Blowout founder Britney Huinker. “It’s the perm of the 21st century. I truly believe it’s here to stay. New people come in to get their haircut, their color and the Brazilian Blowout. Every client can benefit from it.”

Unlike the thermal reconditioning system (Japanese straightening), which thermally and chemically restructures the hair bonds to create permanent stick straight hair, the keratin procedures recondition the hair, preventing frizz while allowing it to wave, curl, or be flat-ironed straight. Hair gradually returns to its original state without the awkward growing-out stage.

Because of the nature of the treatment, it can be used on a wide variety of hair types to achieve a range of looks, from straightening waves to providing shinier, more defined curls. For that reason, demand has soared.

Huinker, a Los Angeles native, has always had an interest in hair. Her mother was a stylist, and she wanted to go to beauty school herself. But her parents insisted she attend a four-year university. Although she graduated from the University of South California with a degree in business communications, her passion for the beauty industry was still alive and well.

Four years ago, Huinker teamed up with friend and entrepreneur M. Devin Sempler to open the Argyle Salon & Spa in the Sunset Tower Hotel on Sunset Boulevard in Hollywood, Calif. Since it opened, the salon has become a mecca for A-list celebrities.

The salon also became the development laboratory for Brazilian Blowout.

The salon has truly been the catalyst for everything we do,” Huinker says. “

Sempler returned from a trip to Brazil with a keratin treatment, and the salon began doing it on people’s hair. They decided to create their own treatment, flying back and forth to Brazil.

A year and a half ago, Huinker decided to completely reformulate Brazilian Blowout because it took too long, and she didn’t like sending her clients home with product in their hair. So they took the product off the market, reformulated it and rebranded it.

“We worked with a company here in the United States to come up with a formula that can be rinsed out of the hair so there’s no downtime,” Huinker says. “When a client comes in to get the treatment, it takes 90 minutes from beginning to end. There’s no processing. They can shower and go to the gym right afterward.”

Huinker says this is what differentiates Brazilian Blowout from some of the other keratin treatments on the market. With other treatments, she says the client may have 24 to 96 hours of downtime.

The core of the product is Brazilian Super Nutrient Complex, a proprietary blend of amino acids that fill the cuticle and provide protective protein to create shine, conditioning and silkiness without losing volume.

The formulation enables clients to get exactly the look they want, she says.

“If they want to keep their curl and wave and just get rid of frizz, they can do that,” she says. “If they want straight hair, they can do that too. It all depends on the technique the stylist uses. It really fits the needs of every client. It’s a smoothing system, not a straightening system.”

Training is an essential element of Brazilian Blowout, Huinker stresses. Stylists are trained on different techniques that provide different outcomes.

“That’s one of the main reasons we haven’t done a distribution deal, despite getting 20 calls a day,” says Huinker, who does training every Monday at her salon for those who want to become a certified Brazilian Blowout stylist.

“I’m there every Monday, without fail,” she says.

Although there is training available online, stylists who take it have to take a test, and it is mandatory that they take part in the education tour.

Before and After

Huinker says Brazilian Blowout does not contain formaldehyde—an ingredient commonly in some of her competitors’ treatments. Brazilian Blowout instead uses a proprietary polymer system, she says. Although this has caused some people to shy away from the treatments, Huinker believes formaldehyde’s bad reputation is undeserved. She calls it “media hype.”

“It’s a chemical treatment, but that’s how you get fabulous results,” she says.

The key to keeping hair looking good after getting a treatment, she says, is using the right products. The Brazilian Blowout Acai Aftercare collection includes Anti-Frizz Shampoo, Anti-Frizz Conditioner, Smoothing Serum and a Deep Conditioning Masque. The Acai hair care products infuse the hair with the company’s proprietary Brazilian Super-Nutrient Complex. This complex allows for a continual and cumulative smoothing effect to occur while the hair is washed and styled in between professional treatments.

Huinker says the products benefit those who haven’t gotten a Brazilian Blowout as well because they get rid of frizz and add shine.

Although Huinker believes Brazilian Blowout has become the gold standard, she has high praise for the other keratin treatments on the market and believe they are changing the industry.

“WIthin two years, I believe every salon will offer some form of keratin treatment,” she says. “It really fits every client. Now people come in to get their haircut, their color and the Brazilian Blowout.”

Want to become a Brazilian Blowout certified salon? Visit their website.

Step 1

Divide the hair into 4 sections. Directly below the occipital area, create an inverted V-shape by parting the hair from ear-to-ear. Secure the remaining free hair with clips.

Step 2

To establish the length, pull down a section in the center of the back nape and part it off. When cutting naturally curly hair, allow the curl to gently spring back after you’ve determined the desired length. Dampen the hair with water, as needed, to maintain a consistent curl pattern throughout the cut. After visually establishing the length, release tension again to allow the hair to contract before cutting. To maintain shape, always cut at the beginning or end of the curl, not through the middle of the “C” or “S” pattern.

Step 3

After establishing the guide, move side-to-side, and cut to extend the guide. Continue working up the head, bringing down ½-inch, diagonal partings and cutting them to the guide, until the back section is completed.

Step 4

To layer the back, take a long, vertical section in the center back. Elevate at a 90-degree angle from the head, as shown, and cut to blend to the back guide.

Step 5

This is the new traveling guide for layering. Continue cutting vertical sections to the traveling guide. Using a 45-degree angle, work toward one side, then from the center to the opposite side, until the entire back is layered. Cross check your work.

Step 6

Establish the length at the sides by connecting the side to the previously cut guide in the back. Begin behind the ear and move forward, cutting the guide to create a diagonal-forward line.

Step 7

Continue to work up the section, cutting to the guide. When you reach the top, repeat on the opposite side. Layer both sides, using vertical sections, as you did in back.

Step 8

Blend the existing front fringe to the sides by slide cutting to the ends. Repeat on both sides, then cross check your work.