KMS Artist Provides Tips To Zap Frizz
by Michelle Breyer on Friday, June 12, 2009
When it comes to working with curly clients, frizz is usually the No. 1 concern stylists hear.
But the right products and techniques can help eliminate frizz, says Michael Crispel, artistic team member for KMS California and owner of Earth, A Salon by Michael Crispel, in Toronto. Crispel knows from his own personal experience, a curly himself with a family of curlies.
The process starts before you ever take a scissor to the hair, says Crispel. First, he deep conditions his clients’ curls using products with moisture and protein, such as KMS Moistrepair Restructuring Therapy and Silksheen Silk Treatment for coarse hair and Moistrepair Conditioner for finer wavier hair.
Once the hair has been cleansed and conditioned, finger comb it at the basin.
“Don’t use a fine-toothed comb because it scatters the bundle and it makes it hard to gauge the construction of each curl bundle,” he says.
Once they are in the chair, Crispel puts on some Moistrepair Leave-in Conditioner to keep the hair porous from roots to ends.
“It gives you a good balance and ensures that nothing dries uneven,” he says. “It keeps the hair hydrated.”
When it comes to cutting, stay away from cutting excessively short pieces around the hair line and minimize texturizing.
“A razor on curly hair is an absolute no-no,” Crispel says. “That’s my personal religious belief. It’s a recipe for cotton candy - a ticket to the carnival. It can change the structure and integrity of the curls.”
The only texturizing Crispel does is with the blunt end of the blade. He combs up the hair when it is half dry and looks for the bulkiest curl formation and goes in with the tip of the blade and blunt, cutting chips to give shape and volume where it’s lacking.
KMS Curlup Products
The styling products, he says, can make or break the cut. If the hair is fine to medium, he uses Curlup Curling Balm. For medium to coarse thick hair, he uses Curlup Control Creme.
Application is key. Always apply from the end to the root, climbing up the hair like a rope.
“Mid shaft to the end is the frizziest,” he says. “Concentrate the application in that area. You don’t need much at the roots.”
Like many stylists who work with curls, Crispel has some favorite frizz-fighting cocktails - mixtures of products that work especially well together.
For thick, coarse curls and kinks, he likes to use a coin-size dollop of Curlup Control Creme on wet hair, overlaying it with a drop of Hairplay Molding Paste – a 4-to-1 ratio of Control Creme to Molding Paste. For looser, finer curls, he applies a golf-ball size of Addvolume Styling Foam concentrated at the root area. Then, from the mid shaft to the ends, he applies a coin size of Curlup Curling Balm.
One of the most important things to remember when a curly sits in your chair is treat her with care.
“Do not sacrifice a curly girl,” Crispel says.
“They are the most terrified of any client,” Crispel says. “They would die to find products that work and are the most excited to change.”