Curly Cutting Deva Style
by Ivan Zoot/The Clipper Guy on Wednesday, March 2, 2011
Ivan Zoot is the director of education and customer engagement for the Andis Company and the founder of Zoot! Hair professional hair care products. Ivan identifies, recruits, trains and manages Andis’s team of professional beauty industry educators. Ivan continues to be a featured presenter at industry shows and events, sharing his unique blend of information, education and enthusiasm for clipper cutting and the entire professional beauty industry. Ivan’s background includes experiences ranging from salon ownership to achieving 3 Guinness World Haircutting records. Here, he shares his cutting and business-building expertise.
I was a guest at a recent Deva Concepts Curlaboration program and participated in their curly hair cutting program. I learned a lot about the world of curly hair and specifically their take on how to cut it. Following are my top five reflections from that curly cutting experience.
1. Respect length: It is not that curly hair grows more slowly, it is that it takes a lot longer to show that length as the hair coils. To that end, every millimeter and month of growth is that much more precious. Go easy. Trim small. Respect the length that is so important to the curly client.
2. Cut dry: They wear it dry. It curls dry. Examine it dry and cut it dry to truly assess the behavior of the curl. Curls can vary throughout the head and once it is wet, all this information is lost.
3. Keep it simple: The kinds of hair cuts that would not make a bit of difference for straight-haired clients make a world of difference for the curly ones. Think simple. Clean up ends and define perimeter shapes. Remove some interior weight and open up face areas. Do not think in terms of complicated structural shapes. Think more maintenance and less creation.
4. Length and width: Focus on these two dimensions. How much length does the client wish to keep? Notice I did not say, “How much length do we want to remove?” How much weight must we retain to prevent the look from expanding sideways? We can alter length and width, but we want to do so slowly and carefully.
5. Make it an experience: Every element of the salon experience must be made special and memorable. Curly clients visit less often and so each visit must have that much more impact to sustain our relationship with them. Appealing to all five senses in powerful ways creates experiences that justify our prices and enhance the experience in the eyes of our clients.
Curly hair cutting can be a huge profit center in and of itself. Other companies beyond Deva offer curl specific systems and training but Deva has really separated themselves as the segment leader. In future posts, I will share more of what I am learning in the curly world. I welcome your thoughts, comments and experiences. Please comment and post below.