Curly Tips from Tearsheet Artistic Team
by Staff on Tuesday, October 6, 2009
Because Tearsheet Artistic Team is constantly working with curly hair on photo shoots and in classes, the company knows that when it comes to curly hair, care needs to be given from the first step to the last. For Tearsheet, since photo shoot images are in high-definition, it’s important to get curls perfect every time — they don’t rely on retouching or other tricks to clean up the beauty they’ve created. And we know that whether you are working editorially or in the salon with your clients, taking your time with the process will pay off with longer-lasting, soft, natural-looking waves and ringlets, both on set and off.
Check out these tips from Tearsheet Artistic Team Artistic Director and Redken Session Stylist Giovanni Giuntoli. on how his team keeps curls looking strong and lasting long on-set:
Naturally curly hair doesn’t like to be touched and scrunched much while being diffused. Try to lift the curls up to the head to continue to activate the curls. If the curls start to break up, lower the speed on the blow dryer.
When applying product to wet hair, make sure to always be activating the curls by scrunching the product in and then leave your hands out while diffusing.
TAMING THE FRIZZ
Photo courtesy of James Weber for Tearsheet
Once curly hair is dry, you may notice the product in the hair needs to be softened in spots. This is a great time to control the flyaways and add shine, since curly hair does not reflect light very well. A little help can be provided by a product that gives shine — like Redken glass 01 smoothing serum or vinyl glam 02 mega shine spray. The curls will be left with a soft, natural feel.
Try emulsifying the products in your palms and use a scrunching process from ends to scalp.
Take care to blend in the flyaways with the existing curls.
If the curls still tend to be slightly dry and extra frizzy, a very light mist of water over the top of the curls could help. Try taking a spray bottle and point it up and over the style – mist and allow the water to fall onto the curls. Use fingers to place the curls where you want them and allow hair to dry naturally.
HOW TO PIN UP CURLY HAIR
Curly hair stays curly and not frizzy by minimum touching, so when pulling hair up make sure not to rake your fingers, comb or brush through the curls.
If a natural texture is desired, take individual subsections and place the curls atop of a pre-teased section that will act as your anchor point. Using hair pins versus bobby pins allows you to place and re-place pieces around the hairstyle without risking a snag while pulling the pin out.
Hair pins also blend in better than bobby pins, so this work looks more polished in front of the camera — and can make that little difference for your client walking down the street.
If larger, softer curls are needed for a fuller look, massage individual curl sections between your first finger and thumb before pinning — this will blossom the curls and give a softer feel to the section and the hairstyle. Use an aerosol hairspray, like Redken’s quick dry 18 instant finishing spray, to hold the hairstyle into place (aerosols are not as heavy as pumped sprays and penetrate the style better as well.)
When tired, over-worked curly hair is not giving the camera what it needs, sometimes re-curling the hair helps to revive the curls and yet still gives the image a clean, natural feel:
Gently take horizontal subsections approximately 1 inch thick and rotate between two different iron sizes close to the actual curl size. The different irons will help enhance the natural feel to the curls.
If the hair is more natural-looking with curls close in size, you can go ahead and use one iron for uniform curls.
Always make sure to curl going in both directions, toward the face and away to make sure the curls won’t interlock with each other, which can look unnatural on camera, allowing less re-touching of the curls to keep their natural bounce and reduce frizz.
We know how difficult natural curls can be to style perfectly — whether you’re styling a model on set, advising your regular client within the salon, or even have them yourself. With these easy tips and tricks we’ve learned on set, you can create perfectly luxurious curls, every time.