Salon owner and cutting expert Anna Craig offers tips on running your business.
Ron King, L'Oreal educator, writes about his "easy-wear" philosophy.
Globetrotter Antonio Gonzales got his start doing his sisters' hair in Trinidad.
Ivan Zoot addresses haircutting.
Big Hair, Big Love For Fall
by Victoria Wurdinger on Monday, August 30, 2010
This spring, we predicted the revival of big hair, and boy, is it having a colossal comeback. Pinups and pompadours, totally teased tresses and behemoth blowouts are everywhere. Upswept, they’re ‘50s-inspired; worn down, some evoke ‘80s power coifs. While today’s high-rise hair isn’t quite Melanie Griffith in “Working Girl,” hipster salons are reporting a bump in Flashdance-style perms, because curls are key to the beauty, the spendor and the wonder.
To help you tap the dimension of your imagination, we asked 5 top tressers for their interpretation of curly, frizzy, shaggy, matty; bangled, tangled and spaghettied: big beautiful hair that’s up to there! If there was one commonality among artists, it was crazy 8s, as in figure 8 shapes.
Styled by Steve Elias 2010 NAHA winner, Editorial Stylist of the Year, and owner of Elixir salon in Berkeley, CA www.steveelias.com (Photo by: www.aaronlippman.com)
Steve Elias
“For fashion week, I’ll be doing a lot of big beachy waves backstage. I like the NALU Waver by Rsession Tools (www.rsessiontools.com) for getting the look. It’s double-barreled, and you wrap the hair through it in a figure 8 to great, big, beautiful waves.”
The Technique: Depending on how big or loose you want the hair, take a fairly large section, two or three inches, and wind the hair between the barrels in figure eights. Leave some of the ends out. Wait 10 seconds, let the hair fall and use a soft, defining pomade or a spritz of hairspray, then run your fingers through the hair.
Style by Sam Villa Education Artistic Director for Redken 5th Avenue and founding partner of the Sam Villa brand www.samvilla.com
Sam Villa
“Snookie’s bump and Allure’s Brigitte Bardot cover shot are examples of how mainstream is embracing big hair. As the trend develops, volume will become more natural. Women with naturally curly hair will control their volume with thermal tools, and those with straighter hair will use hot tools to create more texture and volume. We will also start to see more accessorizing in volume: bands and clips placed to manipulate the shape, especially around the face.”
The Technique: Section hair and spray both sides with Redken Spray Starch 15 to protect hair from heat and add hold. Use the Sam Villa TEXTUR iron to create crimps or impressions down the hair shaft, either overlapping them down the entire shaft or randomly creating crimp patterns. Complete the entire head in this manner. Then take small sections of the textured hair and wrap them around a small Marcel curling iron with the iron pointing down. (Be sure to tuck the ends in the spoon of the iron.) Twist the iron so it points upward, slip a bobby pin into the curl and slip the iron out. Let curls cool, then remove the pins. Rub a couple drops of Redken Glass 01 between your hands and break-up the curls by hand.
Michael Haskett
Style by Michael Haskett Owner of Be Salon in Indianapolis, IN www.besalon.me (Photo by Kristi Swift)
“I like the frizzy, avant-garde texture they’re showing on runways. The look isn’t commericial but it’s a way to have fun, boost your creativity and break out of the box. Its great for transforming hair that’s naturally wavy.”
The Technique: Start with dry hair that has a minimal cocktail of gel and shine serum on it. Take natural sections or squares that are about one-inch—you can also use triangles. Divide them in half and weave them around the sides of a hairpin in figure eights. Seal the ends in foil and hit each section with a flat iron at 350 degrees for about 10 seconds. When you remove the foil and release the strands, brush through with a soft brush. The hair expands instantly. Separate some sections and scrunch others by hand to get the final effect you want.
Style by Sandra Carr Owner of Sheer Professionals, Wooster, OH, and a Matrix National Artistic Educator www.sheerprofessionals.com (Photo by Tom Carson)
Sandra Carr
“We see shiny, soft, wavy big hair for fall. The texture is high-end and expensive, because the look has to be beautiful. For curly hair, swing-line layers are perfect for keeping length while adding movement and allowing the hair to be styled back, forward or big!”
The Technique: Prep highly bodified or slightly wavy hair with Biolage Thermal Styling Spray. Then set medium-sized sections with a 1-inch flat iron. Make one pass through the entire strand, then wrap the base around the flat iron, give it a quarter turn and feed the section through to the ends. Secure the section with a clip. Then wrap all the hair in the same manner. Once the clipped sections cool, release them, mist-on Vavoom Shaping Spray and open them up with your fingers. Finish with Matrix Design Pulse Hard Lock.
Style by Robin Cook Owner, Tangles Salon, Wichita Falls, TX www.tangles.com (Photo by Tom Carson)
Robin Cook
“The idea everything’s bigger in Texas makes people think we are the land of big hair, but it’s only popular all the time in certain areas. It is fashionable this fall, but this time around, big hair is more modern with movement and flow, so it’s more pliable. We use the trend as an opportunity to introduce clients to new ways to add texture and volume with hot tools. Our model here has tons of natural curl and a wiry texture, so we blew it out smooth first.”
The Technique: For a Valley of the Dolls update, blow out natural curl, then mist on thermal spray and set the hair all over with a one-inch curling iron. Use fairly large, two-inch vertical sections and a tonging technique, in which the hair is spiralled or wrapped in figure eights. Then break up curls by hand. On top, part off a triangular section, add volume backcombing and brush the hair with a Mason Pearson brush. Then roll it back smoothly by hand, positioning it to the side. To finish, smooth the roll’s surface lightly with the brush.
search
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Business Building Techniques Begin having frequent staff meetings and collaborate on business building techniques used by others that you work with. Every salon has success right inside. Get the top booker to explain how they do it. Pair the weakest with the strongest and let them work next to each other. They can learn from what they hear and see. Do the same with retail sales. Share the ways that the top stay on top. Geno Stampora, Stampora Consulting Inc. |
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