5 Keys to Coloring Curls

by Michelle Breyer on Thursday, September 10, 2009

Gerd Hoher

There are nuances that every colorist should take into account when coloring hair with wave, curl or kink. Master colorist and founder of arteasecolors Gerd Hoher shares the five most important things every colorist should know about curly hair to get the best results.

1. To achieve truly dimensional color on curly hair, use slightly broader sections and bolder color with more contrast in tone. Finer details otherwise get lost in the curls and simply don’t show as much.

2. Curly hair is always less shiny than straight hair. Use a lower volume of developer whenever possible.

3. If you are planning to cut the hair, do it before the color application(s). It makes the choice of color placement easier, because you can see how the cut hair behaves.

4. Curly hair is traditionally very dry. I recommend shampooing and conditioning curly strands before starting any color, maybe even using a reconstructor or moisturizing treatment if needed. In addition to helping detangle the hair, this process gives a healthier surface or smoother canvas to work with when you apply the color.

5. To have better control over the color, apply color to damp hair versus dry. This saves time and product and helps you to see where you are going as you apply the color. Grey-resistant color also takes better when the hair is damp.

Born in Austria, Hoher represents the fifth generation of hairdressers in his family. After being educated in Austria, Germany and Switzerland, he received his Masters Degree in Hairdressing in Austria, 1972. In 1973 he immigrated to South Africa, met his soon-to-be partners of Carlton Hair International, and continued his adventure in the United States, where they opened 31 salons in California.

Throughout his career with Carlton Hair, Hoher worked as platform artist for major product lines, touring much of the US, South Africa, as well as most of Europe, including Germany, Belgium, Austria, Switzerland and Sweden.

While fueled by his passion for educating, Hoher still had dreams of having his own salon. In September of 2001 he opened his own boutique salon, “The Spot on Montana”, in Santa Monica, California. There he continued to educate, and tour, as well as run a profitable business. Soon after the opening of The Spot, Schwarzkopf Professional named him the National Director of Education, leading their education team from September 2002 to March 2006.

After leaving Schwarzkopf in 2006, Hoher spent the next two years developing his own professional hair color line. Drawing upon his knowledge as an educator and master colorist, Hoher was able to create the kind of line he had always dreamed of. Finally, in March of 2008 Hoher launched arteasecolors in the United States.