Archive for the ‘Tips & Tricks’ Category
Understanding the Needs of Different Textured Hair Types
by Modern Salon on Tuesday, May 26th, 2015
You don’t need a microscope to determine your client’s textured hair type. Each has its own personality that’s easy to see, according to Traci Sakosits, Sassoon North American creative director.
“Wavy hair has a curl pattern, but looks softer because the curve of the hair is larger and farther apart,” says Cole Thompson, Sassoon creative director.
“Wavy hair tends to lay flatter to the head shape. Curly hair has a wave pattern that is closer together and tends to look more three dimensional, while coily hair has the tightest and smallest curl pattern. In the latter case, the hair is naturally in an expanded form because it stacks out, on top of itself.”
To remain at the center of every curl conversation, you must understand the needs of different textured hair types, uncover the client’s desires and offer solutions that will guide clients to their fullest curl expressions, says DevaCurl Vice President of Education Shari Harbinger.
According to TextureMedia Inc. President Michelle Breyer, TextureTrends’ market research shows that the biggest concern of those with wavy hair is frizz. Curly girls care most about definition, whereas those with coily hair types are most often looking for moisture.
Texture shape: True wavy hair has an S-shaped formation. Neither curly nor straight, it can undulate back and forth or have more of an open loop, as though it were iron-curled. Highly versatile, it retains curl because it already has natural movement.
Client personality: “Frizz and volume can contribute to the wavy story and concerns,” Harbinger says. “This client wants either volume at the crown for height and hold, or a flatter crown with soft, beachy waves at the bottom. These needs are met with products and a cut that either supports volume at the crown or encourages waves at the mids and ends. For more volume, the cutting approach focuses on the crown.”
Adds Paul Mitchell School’s Advanced Academy member Holli Cadman, “Wavy hair tends to need control products and hydration to have definition in its formation. For fine wavy hair, volumizing products also are ideal to aid in styling or diffuse drying.”
Primary needs: Frizz reduction, lightweight definition, hydration, volumizers and shine enhancers.
Texture shape: The curly demographic has a wide span. Sam Villa, founding partner of the Sam Villa brand and education artistic director for Redken 5th Avenue says that curl, which often has mixed patterns, has two movements to look at: the size and expansion of the curl, and how tightly the curl wants to sit together.
Client personality: Harbinger notes that most curly clients understand their curl’s behavior and want shape, definition and frizz-control. In addition to products that meet those needs, a cut designed to remove heaviness at the crown is key. “Some curlies might also enjoy a fuller, more voluminous triangular finish, which you can get when the hair is properly hydrated,” she says. “This client is often misunderstood and complains that the cut is too short, too wide and frizzy.” Without the correct moisturizing products, the hair expands.
Primary needs: Hydration, strengthening treatments, volume control for either a smooth or defined finish, and shine enhancers
Texture shape: Coily hair grows close to the scalp and ranges from medium coils to springy ones, or interlocking ones that have a zigzag pattern. “Clients with this hair often complain their scalp hurts,” says Mizani Educator Evie Johnson. “The cuticle is raised, the hair is very porous and it tangles easily. It has a shorter lifespan, meaning the average growth cycle is 2-6 years, so it doesn’t grow very long. This hair needs moisture, but product over-use doesn’t help; diet will. The need for moisture and detangling is major, which is often true of curly hair as well. If coily hair is weak, add protein treatments if needed, but they must be balanced with moisture; using only protein can harden the hair.” To determine protein needs in any textured type, perform an elasticity test. Coily hair is often dry, frizzy and fragile because sebum cannot travel far down the hair shaft. Coily hair can range from coarse to fine, and often has low tensile strength—the more open the cuticle due to movement, the more porous and less shiny the hair.
Client personality: Clients with coily hair increasingly favor wearing it natural as opposed to chemically altering it.
Primary needs: Intense moisturizing/strengthening (moisture and protein must be balanced), frizz control, smoothing products and shine enhancers.
Original article on ModernSalon.com.
Essential Tips for Hair Growth
by CurlStylist on Tuesday, March 18th, 2014
Michelle O’Connor is the L’Oreal Mizani designer and Artistic Regional Leader of JCP Salons. She shares tips on hair growth from a professional standpoint– and how to address your client’s concerns next time they ask the daunting question, “Why isn’t my hair growing?”
As a stylist & educator & creative director for a major salon chain, I’m been on more than one occasion been posed with that question has always been considered an elusive conquest amongst the highly textured set . Why doesn’t my hair grow?
This false illusion that curly to excessively curly women experience first hand is the shrunken halo of hair that appears like it’s never growing, or moving beyond a certain point.Misconception……..or is it ? We all know that curly hair is dry hair. Why you ask ? Well, we all produce natural oil from our scalps, however due to the nature of curls or coils twisting & turning around & around, sometimes even zig zagging, the oil just can’t hold on for the ride. As a result of this, the mid-shaft & ends never receive that natural goodness, leading to dry parched hair. This often times leads to split ends, which later results in breakage. This is what usually draws the conclusion that hair isn’t growing. let’s just put this fact out there. Everyone’s hair grows! Whatever growth happened is usually negated by the breaking at the ends, therefore the hair will not pass that treasured landmark we have on our bodies, affectionately known as the chin , shoulders & oh yeah the Rocky Balboa of landmarks…..#brastraplength!
HELP YOU SAY! I can certainly enlighten you. Here is my 2 cents, if you will. I really want you to pay attention to to what I’m about to lay on you. You’ll wonder where I’ve been all your life. All jokes aside, let’s get to the root of things (no pun, seriously) . We’ll call this the Michelle’s hair growth boot camp essentials.
1. Use shampoos without sulfates. Sulfates dry the hair out leading to even more dryness & you know what I told you about that!
2. Don’t wash excessively. Remember we are in desperate need of moisture. Let’s stick to no more that 2-3 times a week. I highly recommend a co-wash or conditioning wash. This is basically a conditioner with cleansing properties.
3. Deep condition at least once a week. A hooded dryer or a warm towel wrapped around the head will help the conditioner to penetrate the hair deeper. Think about warm water when washing your face. It opens the pores right? Well warmth will open the cuticles in the hair. Get it? Oh yeah, whine your at it , a scalp massage wouldn’t hurt either. It’ll increase the blood flow.
4. Get a protein treatment around once a month, more than that if necessary. This helps restore the strength to the hair. When we color, flat iron , blow dry & do anything that decreases the strength, we have to put back in what we’ve depleted. Kinda like when we go in our savings account. I won’t tell.
5. Use a protective covering over your hair, like a satin bonnet. I know that you’re giving me the side eye right now, but just hear me out. You can also get your sexy on and make it a satin pillow case. You see standard cotton pillow cases absorb moisture out of the hair. Satin will not do that. The hair will slide around on satin & keep all your due diligence intact. Make satin your hair’s new BFF.
6. Moisture, moisture moisture ! That’s my nod to the Brady bunch. Every day before you walk out of the house, grace your tresses with a moisturizing hair dress or essential oil. Steer clear of silicones, petrolatum & mineral oil. You want penetrating oils, not substances that sit on top of your hair.
7. limit your use of heat, and on those occasions, do not forget to use a thermal protector. This includes blow dryers & irons, not hooded dryers or warm towel which are essential to deep conditioning. Daily heat use can contribute to heat damage. Heat damage= poor elasticity. Poor elasticity= weak hair . Weak hair= breakage.
8. Last but not least, get your hair trimmed regularly! YES, don’t wine about it. It’s necessary. Each hair strand is growing at a different interval. There are three stages of hair growth. Anagen (the growth phase) approximately 85% of all hairs are in the growing phase at any one time. This stage can last from 2-6 years. Then there is Catagen (the transitional phase). This stage lasts for about two weeks & the hair follicle shrinks to about 1/6 of its normal length. Lastly there is Telogen (the resting phase). 10-15% of hairs are in this phase. During this time of 5-6 weeks the hair doesn’t grow, but it stays attached to the follicle. At the end of Telogen the hair follicle re-enters the Anagen phase. If the old hair has not already shed, the new hair pushes the old one out and the growth cycle starts all over again. Sorry I had to get all scientific on you, but I just wanted you to understand that trimming the hair is essential, because at any stage, the thousands of stands of hair on your head are going through different phases. The more uniform you keep those ends the stronger your hair will be. It’s like when you see a person with long hair & only 3 strands of it are long . One wrong move with a hairbrush & it’s a wrap! Don’t do it! . Don’t be that girl! In the hair world, there is strength in numbers.
In closing I have one thing to chant …..Rocky, Rocky, Rocky!
Premiere Orlando 2012: Sea Sponge Highlights
by Cassadie on Friday, June 8th, 2012
We discovered this stylist’s swoon-worthy curls over at the Paul Mitchell stage at Premiere Orlando. At first we were eyeing her amazing ringlets and then her awesome golden/auburn ombre hue so we decided to ask how she got her color. The answer was shocking: A SEA SPONGE!
Rather than using foils to highlight individual strands of curls, Samantha got her golden flecked highlights by applying color forumla using a sea sponge along the length of her hair. ”I think we’re seeing a lot more organic coloring and this technique gives great but more subtle highlights,” she explained. Samantha recommends controlling the highlights by applying the dye with different pressures in different areas; for more saturated hues press harder and for lighter tones press more softly.
Another way she recommended getting more organically distributed highlights is to first braid the hair and spot lighten different sections within the braid.
Salon Sanitizing Tips for Customer Loyalty
by Ivan Zoot/The Clipper Guy on Friday, July 22nd, 2011
Salon sanitation is not a fun and sexy topic, but the reality is that selling sanitation—in a big way!—can build (and save) more clients than learning the next big trend haircut.
For best results when selling sanitation, you need to use good sanitation principles and practices to grow your business.
Get Caught Sanitizing
Sanitizing should happen in plain view of your clients. Disposable razor blades should be changed at the beginning of each service after the client is seated. Remember, if I did not see you change the blade, you did not change the blade.
Even if all tools are cleaned before the client sits down, a fast shot of spray sanitizer on a clipper blade sends a powerful message. Spraying scissors before you start a cut will be noticed.
Pulling a nasty hairball off of a round brush in front of a client sends the wrong message.
Clean Every Client
Every client should walk up to your chair and see a chair that looks like the chair the first client saw at the beginning of the day. Reset your tools. Sweep the floor. Check the mirror. Each client should feel like the first and only client of the day.
Don’t Top Off
When the liquid in your wet sanitizer is no longer bright blue, and the hairball at the bottom is the size of a hamster, it’s time to dump it out and start over.
Do not just top it off with water. Adding water alters the strength and effectiveness of the mix. The lighter blue color screams of this.
When a tool is dropped on the floor, leave it there. Grab another comb. Have more combs on hand so you can do this. Kick it out of the way so no one slips and falls. Do NOT pick it up, wipe it off and keep cutting.
Sanitizers need time to work. If you pick up the comb from the floor then your hands are no longer clean either. Clients notice these things. They may not comment on them, just as they may not come back.
Make Sanitation Easy
Spray can products like Andis Cool Care 5oinONE clipper spray are easy to use. The easier they are to use the more likely they will actually be used. Stock all the necessary cleaning products in a convenient place so they can be easily accessed by anyone as needed.
Move the broom. If the broom is way in the back of the shop and it takes too much time to go get it, use it and put it back, move the broom to a more convenient location. Do NOT just skip it and sweep every few clients (more on sweeping next blog post).
Good sanitizing practices build businesses and customer loyalty. Word will spread - diseases will not – and that is a win-win for everyone.
5 Tips for Using Hairstyle Photos for a Consultation
by Ivan Zoot/The Clipper Guy on Monday, July 11th, 2011
Ivan Zoot is the director of education and customer engagement for the Andis Company and the founder of Zoot! Hair professional hair care products. Ivan identifies, recruits, trains and manages Andis’s team of professional beauty industry educators. Ivan continues to be a featured presenter at industry shows and events, sharing his unique blend of information, education and enthusiasm for clipper cutting and the entire professional beauty industry. Ivan’s background includes experiences ranging from salon ownership to achieving 3 Guinness World Haircutting records. Here, he shares his cutting and business-building expertise.
Clients frequently bring hairstyle photos to help visually explain the look they want and stylists frequently have stylebooks lying around, either professionally published or just a personal scrapbook. Using these resources can help to ensure a great experience for both the client and the professional.
Of course, one of the biggest disconnects in the industry arises from unrealistic expectations created by the promise in a discussion around an image.
To avoid this communication disaster, follow these top five tips for using hairstyle photos during a consultation.
1. Seek similar textures
A client with kinky curly hair offering up an image of a sleek, straight style will be setting themselves up for a problem — or setting you up for a big ticket straightening service and a pile of take home hair care products. One scenario is a win/win; the other is a lose/lose. Try to match images and expectations to similar textures.
2. Keep colors close
For the previous reason alone, and then some. The same haircut can appear very different when sculpted on different colors of hair. Issues of depth and dimension reflect quite differently across the range of hair color choices. Encourage clients to share hairstyle photos in target colors that you know can work.
3. Match facial shapes
Many stylists have the ability to imagine a style on different clients. Clients may lack this vision. Compare a client’s facial shape and bone structure to that of a target image. How well will the shape translate? Can you find an image of the cut on a closer matching facial shape? If not, explain your vision to the client and encourage them to seek alternative photos and examples.
4. Align for age
Share hairstyle photos of models of similar age to the client with the client. Female clients generally like to “shop” images only a few years younger than their actual age. Going too young puts them ill at ease with the consultation and change process. Sharing idea images of models noticeably older than the client most always meets with resistance, too. Creating a scrapbook of your work on your clientele’s average aged models will encourage them to choose more visual explanations and help you to give them exactly what they are looking for.
5. Mine Internet galleries
A fast Google search of hair cut length and style keywords reveals an enormous number of valuable image galleries. Other folks did the work of accumulating good shots to work from so use these galleries to build up your stash of images to share.
Update your image collection frequently. Adding new hairstyle photos is needed to keep things fresh. Deleting passé styles is important as well so as to keep clients from getting stuck in the past or from “going retro” before retro becomes hot again.
Remember, you are your client’s last line of defense. Don’t let poor communication and lack of vision ruin an otherwise great appointment.
Easy Curly Hairstyles for Summer
by Alicia Ward on Tuesday, June 7th, 2011
We’ve checked in with veteran hairstylist Anna Craig to get the best curly hairstyles to welcome the summer. The big trend for summer 2011 is natural and loose—great for curlies! Summer curly hairstyles can look very glamorous and beautiful with little to no effort. Summer is the season of sitting poolside, lying on the beach and being outside more that usual—thus, you and your clients need some easy styles to rock this summer.
First, tell your clients to use shampoos, conditioners and hair styling products that contain sunscreens and nourishing agents to help protect their hair from the summer elements. Even better: offer these products at your salon!
Craig, a DevaCurl specialist, has more than nine years of experience and gives us the lowdown on the latest trends and how to achieve these effortless looks. Here is Craig’s list of some of the newest curly hair styles for the hottest months of the year.
Keep it messy!
In fact, the messier the better. You want it to look natural and effortless. The look should be unkempt—loose pieces and curls and waves. Keep it very natural— help your client show off her beautiful curls, kinks and waves!
Help your clients rock their curls to the side. This summer, side ponies and side buns are in. These looks are very easy to achieve, plus they keep our curls off their necks—perfect for those hot summer months.
How to give your client the look:
1: Style her hair as usual. Make sure to apply lots of frizz control products to make this look last.
2: Pull her curls to the side—right behind their ear.
3: Smooth down her curls with your hand and loosely pull them into a ponytail. Don’t pull the hair tightly from the root. Instead, leave it slack and keep it loose.
4: When the ponytail looks right to you, pinch it tightly in place with one hand and then work the elastic band on your wrist over the curls, and secure it tightly so that the ponytail doesn’t flop.
We recommend you use a clear rubber band or one that matches your client’s hair color. Another alternative to a rubber band is the Goody Simple Styles Pony Pouf Hair Styling Clip. This is an easy way to get the messy bun look.
5: Optional: Pull some front and side pieces out to give the look a more glamorous appeal.
Messy-braid those curls for a quick and easy summer look. The messy side-braid is an effortless, boho chic look for this summer.
How to give your client the look:
1: Spritz in some curl-enhancing spray and scrunch her hair to enhance her curls and reduce the frizz
2: Gather hair to one side and part in three sections
3: Braid hair loosely and secure it at the bottom
4: For a messy effect, pull out some strands and apply a texturizing product, like wax or pomade
5: Spray on a finishing hair spray and scrunch up hair again for extra volume
Scarves are the perfect accessory for summer and a great way to protect your hair from the summer heat, which can dry hair out and cause frizz!. Slipping a colorful scarf around your curls is an easy way to glam up simple curly hairstyles this summer.
1: Fold a bright scarf several times until it’s about 3 inches wide. Twist the ends. Check out these beautiful Shimmer & Bliss scarves.
2: Push your client’s curls, kinks and waves back with your hands, then place the scarf 2 to 2.5 inches behind her hairline. Make sure the ends are an even length.
Tip: To prevent the scarf from slipping, tie it twice at your nape underneath your hair. First, knot it horizontally, then do it again, but this time pull each side of the scarf vertically. This will keep the knot tight and also make the ends lay down evenly.
Premiere Orlando Trend Watch: Deconstructed Curls
by Cassadie on Monday, June 6th, 2011
Deconstructed Curls from Matrix
Deconstructed Curls from Matrix
“Curls are cute,” explained the professional stylist on the Matrix stage “but the new look is big, dramatic hair!” The model to his right, he went on to explain had her curls styled using a styling gel from their new Total Results Curl line launching July 15th, which left her curls super defined and shiny. But to get the the high-impact look he desired, he pulled apart the curls, lifting at the roots and teasing her hair into a large and dramatic style.
The Deconstructed Curl was everywhere on the floor of Premiere Orlando and was often used as a foundation for other styles. On the TIGI stage, a stylist applied tiny-coiled extensions to her model and then used her fingers to pull each and every one of the coils apart. Avlon, the makers of Kera Care, had models with deconstructed curls swept into ponytails. Scruples models wore their curls big, loose, and dramatic.
TIGI uses curly extensions as the base of their Deconstructed Curl look. The result is huge hair with drama and volume
In a community that is focused on the definition of curls and fighting frizz, the Deconstructed Curl offers reprieve and brings a new, edgier option for styling. Instead of seeking the perfect curl, aim to create shape, volume, and drama.
Get Deconstructed Curls at Home
- Wash and condition hair as usual
- Use a gel to style the curls while wet. The goal here is to define the curls
- Let the curls dry
- Once dry, separate the curls gently with fingers from tip to root
- Flip head upside down and shake for more volume and finish with a shine serum
Voila! Deconstructed Curls!
Once you have the big loose hair, try some fun styling options such as slicking the front back and wearing a big pony tail or use bobby pins to create a bouffant in the front.
Mizani pairs deconstructed curls with a sleek bouffant
Trendy Curly Updos for Weddings & Proms
by Alicia Ward on Friday, June 3rd, 2011
Wedding and prom season are here! We’ve got the run down on the last curly hairstyle trends for formal events this year. Veteran stylist Anna Craig of Trashy Root Salon & Spa, show us how to achieve two trendy looks for this formal event season. Craig, Pravana Artistic Educator and DevaCurl Specialist, with over nine years of experience loves updos and shows us how to achieve these looks at home with ease.
Updos for Wavies (Type 2) and Curlies (Type 3)
Step 1: Start by diffusing and applying gel. Apply gel first then diffuse till dry completely dry.
Step 2: Start on the bottom half of the hair and pull curl by curl and pin to the side—right behind the ear (slightly to the side).
Step 3: Twist some pieces, while alternating side, keep the hair loose and kind of messy. It shouldn’t be perfect.
Step 4: Part to the side: Then start twisting the top—alternate side to side—keep it loose do not pull on the curl. Pin, alternating side to side.
Step 5: Leave a few pieces in front (only if the client has shorter bang pieces/framing).
Step 6: Complete the look with aerosol hair spray.
Updos for Kinkies (Type 4)
Step 1: Take small sections and French braid them around the head.
Step 2: Angle the pattern toward one side to give it more style.
Step 3: Pin the ends into the braids. It’s a very simple style.
Step 4: Can add flowers or a clip to accentuate the look.
Move Over Mickey: Premiere Orlando is Coming to Town!
by Cassadie on Thursday, June 2nd, 2011
This weekend, beauty professionals from all over the world will be taking over the land-o-Disney for Premiere Orlando, the largest beauty industry event of the year! I’ll be on the ground chatting with vendors, snapping pictures, and interviewing stylists to bring YOU, yes you, you NaturallyCurly-ites, the latest, greatest, and hottest from the show!
Out of the the hundreds upon hundreds of vendors and education programs here are a few things that I’m really excited to check out:
Curly Hair Tips/Tricks/Products/Styles: A no-brainer, yes, but flat irons, blow dryers, extensions, and straightening treatments still reign supreme. With a keen eye, however, there are always textured diamonds in the rough waiting to be discovered. I can’t wait to unearth this year’s gems!
The Main Stage: I fully expect to be dazzled by the world’s leading stylists who will be taking center stage and showing off their inspired looks at the “International Hair and Fashion Theater”. Nick Arrojo, Ted Gibson (of What Not To Wear), and the Paul Mitchell team to name a few who I’m looking forward to seeing.
The ”Upside Down Speed Cutting” seminar: Really!? Never thought I would use those words together in a sentence, but I’m intrigued and must know what this is all about. Must.
The Fight or Flight of the Keratin Treatment Series: Currently the Premiere Orlando program lists at least 10 different sessions on different Keratin treatments. But these popular - yet polarizing- straightening treatments have recently been under federal fire in the media for their allegedly high levels of formaldahyde. I’m interested to see how this recent news is being handled by these companies and stylists.
BONUS EXTRA CURRICULAR EVENT:The Curly Nikki meet up on Saturday June 4th! Curls!Mingling!Cocktails!Ohmy! I’m totally there so if you’re in Orlando, be sure to stop through! I would love to meet you!
Hot Summer 2011 Hair Trends
by Trash Talk with Anna Craig on Wednesday, June 1st, 2011
From coast-to-coast, hair extensions and faded color is all the rage this season. Here’s a look at two hot summer 2011 hair trends.
Feather Hair Extensions
Right now you cannot go anywhere without seeing people with feather hair extensions. You can dress them up or dress them down which makes them very versatile. They’re also huge at all the schools because the kids can get away with them; schools haven’t outlawed them because they’re a hair accessory. They can be washed, blow dried, curled, and flat ironed, and are safe for hair since they attach with a simple hair extension clamp.
You care for feather hair extensions just like a regular hair extension. The feathers come in all lengths, colors, sizes, and designs. However, if you’ve ever tried to order some for your salon, you’ll find out that they’re sold out almost everywhere. My salon was even approached by another salon to see if they could buy ours! But if you’re lucky enough to order some, you know that there are slim pickings right now because of the high demand. Feather hair extensions started out as fly fishing feathers from roosters, peacocks and various other birds. The poor fishermen are probably a little peeved at all the crazy hair stylists out there buying their stock.
Ombre Hair Color
Ombre hair color, reverse highlights, or balayaging or whatever you call it is also hot this year. Jessica Biel, Sarah Jessica Parker, Drew Barrymore, Hillary Duff are some of the celebrities who have been rocking this look for a while. This look means having a grown-out bleachy and dark-to-light fade of hair color, with the root starting dark and gradually lightening to the ends.
This look is achieved by coloring halfway up the hair strand to create a natural, sun-kissed highlight. Foils cannot be used because they will cause the hair to look too streaky. If the hair has previous highlights and the highlights are too high up on the hair shaft, you will have to create a dark root by coloring the roots to the midshaft their natural color, and sweeping the color down almost half way. Then you will have to go back and color the midshaft to create a natural highlight and to break up the line. Ombre hair color is more economical for many clients because they are able to go between appointments a lot longer.
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