Wash and Go Conditioning Basics One of the challenges with wash and go hair is quickly styling before seeing frizz or shrinkage. Here are some tips to ensure adequate moisture and ample time to style.
Use a hydrating leave-in conditioner, such as Design Essentials Natural Moisturizing Conditioner, for achieving more volume along with a daily moisturizing agent, such as Design Essentials Natural Daily Moisturizing Lotion, for achieving more definition as a base before using a curl enhancing product such as Design Essentials.
With these tips you can achieve a fabulous wash and go style that clients will step out of the salon raving about!
The CurlStylist team is here in Las Vegas for the annual Paul Mitchell Gathering where the world-renowned product line and school is launching a new product and education initiative focused on CURLS. Our West Coast Correspondent Cassidy Blackwell sat down to chat with the one-and-only Robert Cromeans about trends and techniques in texture!
Curly hair is beautiful in it’s natural state. As stylists, we love to see woman embrace their natural curls, coils and waves. However, we know that everyone likes options and variety. No one person can eat the same lunch everyday for their entire life just like no one curly can wear her hair the same her whole life. Blow-outs are a great way to help your clients change up their look. Here are four tips to help you give your client the perfect blow out.
1. Start Clean and Detangled!
You should always start fresh and clean for a smooth blowout. When selecting a cleanser, pick one that has smoothing properties like Matrix Total Results Sleek Shampoo. Choose a conditioner that is very moisturizing and has smoothing and de-frizzing qualities. We recommend the pair to the above shampoo, Matrix Total Results Sleek Conditioner. You will need to do a thorough job of wide-tooth comb detangling before you get started to ensure you get every curl smooth. Before you detangle be sure to apply a leave-in conditioner. Again, when selecting products for a blow out, choose products that have a smoothing properties like Matrix Total Results Moisture Cure 2-Phase Leave-In Treatment. Hair should be damp but not dripping wet when you get started. Remember to use a microfiber towel to gently dry your curls before starting, because this will help reduce frizz and friction.
2. Protect and Separate!
To ensure that your curls are protected from heat damage, apply a heat protectant and smoother. Matrix Total Results Sleek Iron Smoother works to protect and smooth curls for heat styling. To apply this heat protectant place a dime to quarter size into your hand and distribute it evenly. Then, separate curls into sections, this will make the drying more manageable and reduce tangles.
3. Dry: Hot and Cold!
Now it’s time to start drying the hair in sections. Grab the first section and start drying it at the top, aiming the blow dryer downward and moving it from the top of the hair to the ends. Alternate between hot and cold settings on the blow dryer. It’s best to use a round brush and a dryer with a concentrator nozzle. These are must have tools for a good blow out. Using high heat and a concentrator nozzle to direct the dryer’s airflow, dry hair from root to tip for about 8 seconds, then lock out the frizz by using the cool shot button for 5 seconds. If the hair is excessively curly or coily, start by drying hair from mid-shaft to end to minimize styling time.
Matrix is offering you the opportunity to show off you best blow out!
Matrix Curly Girl is challenging six salons to throw down their best blow-out techniques to see whose smooth style reigns supreme. Vote by June 30th, for the salon you think will give our Curly Girl the best & longest lasting blow-out. If your salon wins you will be entered to win one of 50 gift baskets filled with the products the winning salon used on our Curly Girl (a $100 value)! Stylists can involved and enter here.
Inspired by 1950’s Hollywood glamour, multi-textured hair showed prominently on the Premiere Orlando show floor. Rather than creating evenly distributed texture throughout the look, the multi-textured hair we were seeing combined sleek and straight roots that flow into a burst of curls, coils and waves! The best part of this look is that it can be created on any hair textured, whether curly, wavy or straight. Ouidad Creative Director Morgan Willhite explains how to get the this sexy and fun vintage look with a modern twist
For Naturally Textured Hair
Start with very wet hair. Apply Ouidad’s Climate Control Gel thoroughly from roots to ends. Using a fine tooth comb, section in your desired part and begin combing hair in a downward motion smoothing your hair flat till you reaching top of your ears (the halfway point between the top of your head and the nape of your neck).
Using a metal duckbill clip (or any flat length clip) placing clips one after another, securing hair flat from ear to ear. With the top secured smooth, allow to dry natural or use a dryer on low pressure to ensure the hair dries sleek and straight.
On the remainder the hair (from ears down), again rake Ouidad’s Climate Control Gel throughout the curls adding definition. Using a diffuser, dry the bottom curls on high heat, high pressure.
Lifting the diffuser to the scalp, dry curls until completely dry to achieve full, tousled, voluminous curls. Do not diffuse for perfection. The vision of this style is more of a unkept bed head look. Skip the bang if the hair is naturally curly.
For Naturally Straight Hair
Start with dry hair. For the top area, use a smoothing serum, try Ouidad’s Shine Serum. Using a drop of serum, smooth hair with a fine tooth comb ensuring all those little flyaway are tamed. Also if you have them, bangs are great touch to add a little extra edge to the style.
Again, secure using duckbill clips from ear to ear ensuring to top stays smooth. The bottom area can either be set with rollers or set with a curling iron.
The key for this look is to avoid perfected curls. Break up the curls using a fine tooth comb by teasing with a setting aerosol hairspray. Go throughout the curls and strategically tease the curls adding uneven texture.
Over on the TIGI stage, platform artist Dominico Tomei of Fernando Cellini salon in Ottawa, was demonstrating not just how to get perfect curls, but rather how to get curls worthy of a magazine spread. Rather than focusing on perfectly formed, frizz-free ringlets Tomei created an ethereal halo that relied on intentionally separated curls for a light and airy final look.
Beginning with a basic shape, Tomei first formed the curls using a leave in and serum before completely drying with a diffuser. Once completely dry, Tomei used his fingers to gently pull apart individual sections. In an effort to really take the look to the next level to create what he described as “Editorial Curls,” he pinched a section at the end of the strand and used two fingers on his other hand to slide the hair towards the roots creating drama and lift. Using dry shampoo to create more volume, Tomei’s final look provided gorgeous texture with soft definition and a lot of movement.
“I love when a woman has the confidence to wear her natural curls,” said Tomei, “It’s actually really hard for a lot of women to do because they’ve had to hide it their whole lives.”
It’s a new year, and the style spotlight is on textured hair. Top texture experts share their predictions on what will be this year’s hottest curly hair trends.
Brian and Sandra Smith
Matrix Artistic Directors
This year is defined by minimalism and natural beauty. We see easy elegance for spring in polished ponytails, graceful braids and bouncy blowouts. Still, nothing is too perfect or impeccable —deconstructed waves and undone knots and twists prove having a bit of an edge is as chic as ever.
“You can see it in TV ads and most facets of popular culture: Natural hair is becoming the must-have style for many women. More and more women with texture are turning away from relaxers and extensions to prevent damage and breakage. Now there’s a different kind of shift underway—keeping your hair in its natural state and manipulating and refining texture with product, tools and techniques.”
Editorial Stylist and Founder of Kevin.Murphy Products
“The 1970s wave — think Janis Joplin/mermaid waves. The undone look is a simple idea, but not as easy to achieve as one would think. Texture is one thing and frizz is another and they should not be confused. Frizz is a hard pill to swallow for most women, but to make hair modern, clients need to let go a bit.
“The Afro set will be another trend. This is a method of using a large pin and wrapping the hair around in a figure-eight pattern. This look is great for achieving lots of volume—it’s about embracing texture and going wild. It has a lot to do with freedom and rounder shapes in hair cuts, lots of layers and a shorter length to make a sort of mini fro.”
Marketing Coordinator for Design Essentials
“Big, messy curls, waves, twist sets and braid outs—I love hair that is purposely messy with some frizz and wildness to it. Even if you’re natural, I’m an advocate for trims and texture with shape.”
Founder of Hair Rules
“Growing it out and chopping it off! Once women have embraced their natural waves, curls and kinks, many are opting for dynamic, short styles that showcase their unique textures.” “Protective styling is on the upswing, with clients looking for styles that last longer. Many clients with kinkier textures are requesting more braids and twists; and curlier clients are getting more blow outs and looking for more enduring styles they can maintain effortlessly at home.”
Owner of Christo Fifth Avenue
“Long curls—fringe is outdated for long hair this season. The hair cut trend will be long, diagonal layers that give lift and a lot of movement for a sexy, airy look. It’s very versatile and can be carried off by all hair textures.
“For medium curls, the trend will be one length with very few layers in the front (preferably done with a single-plate sharp shears for more texture). Fringe is welcome with medium lengths to create a sexier look; however, make sure the curls are not tight. This is one of my favorite styles because it can be worn either curly or straight.
“For short curls I suggest the crop. It is super short with long, full bangs and diagonal layers toward the face. This style is for women with loose curls.”
Director of Marketing and Business Development for Universal Beauty Products
“Some of the biggest trends will be natural hair colors using non-ammonia based color and bigger styles. People with textured hair will be more comfortable rocking bolder styles due to natural hair becoming more accepted worldwide.”
Founder of Toronto’s Curly Hair Solutions and the Curly Hair Institute
“Texture is now trending in 2012. It has been a while coming, but now it’s here in full swing. Clients and stylists have embraced what they have, and they have learned how to manage, manipulate and get their curls under control and how to show them at their optimum.”
Women in the spotlight are sporting more texture, and clients can look to them for inspiration. Learn how to create these celebrity curly hairstyles from the stylists who created them.
Of “General Hospital” and TV’s “Charlie’s Angels” Stylist: Rocky Vitelli, platform artist for Farouk
Using Farouk Royal Treatment, prep hair by cleansing with Pure Hydration Shampoo and Farouk Royal Treatment Aqua Charge Conditioner. Add Pearl Complex to wet hair, then blow dry using CHI Ceramic dryer.
Once hair is prepped, take small sections at the nape, horizontally. Spray the hair with Ultimate Control prior to curling for maximum hold. Using the ¾-inch CHI Digital Orbit Iron, curl the hair section by section, working your way to the top of the head. Once curled, pin sections up at the crown to give height and form. To ensure lasting hold, nish with Ultimate Control spray and Rapid Shine for silky, shiny, healthy results.
Corinne Bailey Rae
Singer Stylist: Ami Mankey of Madusalon in San Francisco
The key to this wash-and-go style is to amplify the natural curl pattern by making sure hair has enough moisture. Don’t completely rinse out conditioner after washing, then trickle some water on to re-wet hair. Before air drying, shake curls loosely. All the conditioner will give a soft, light hold and hair will also be frizz free. For extra pizzazz, scrunch in light-hold styling products on slightly wet hair. For extra volume when hair is dry, put client’s head upside down and rub ngers on the scalp to backcomb the curls with ngers, rather than a comb. This will provide volume without the frizz.
Actress Stylist: Ami Mankey of Madusalon in San Francisco
For this easy-to-achieve, elegant updo, apply a light hold styling product after washing and conditioning hair. Let air dry or gently use a diffuser. Once dry, pull back hair into a loose bun. For the piece-y, slick look, gently glide pomade through hair using ngertips. To create the sexy pompadour on top, use the back of a rat tail comb to tease and lift hair from the roots. Finish with a little shine spray for bling and nishing spray for hold.
R&B singer/actress Stylist: Felicia Leatherwood, Scott’s personal stylist
Wash and condition the hair, then apply a leave-in conditioner and seal with a serum before blowing out the hair. Section hair with a dramatic angle from front to back, going in an “S” pattern.
Isolate one whole side of hair from the side where the braid pattern will be. Use a small amount of synthetic hair to support the cornrows, so the natural hair is protected. After completing one side of the head with the desired cornrow design, join all of the braids into one continuous braid that follows the S parting down the middle of the head from front to back.
Sew Bohyme human hair on the side of the head with the one continuous braid. Follow the pattern of the braid until the one side is complete, leaving the cornrow designs exposed. Once human-hair sewing has been completed on the one side, cut and shape the Bohyme hair, giving it volume. Finish the style with a luster and shine serum.
The spotlight is on texture in the fashion industry, and we don’t mean tweeds, wools and ruching. Curls, kinks and waves are front and center on the runway this season.
Sleek, flat locks are a thing of the past on the runway as fashion designers and hair stylists draw inspiration from the textured-hair revolution taking place around the world. Together, they have resurrected the art of the curl and are putting it center stage in fashion shows everywhere.
The versatility of texture provides stylists with an infinite amount of creative possibilities for designing high-drama, high fashion, haute couture hair to complement the equally dramatic clothing created by renowned designers.
“Rather than sleek, straightened hair, what we’re seeing more and more of in fashion is a celebration and enhancement of texture,”says runway and celebrity stylist Danilo.
The fashion industry draws its inspiration not only from other cultures and eras, but also from what’s happening on urban streets. Tammy Mixon of Farouk’s Global Artistic Board says she has noticed more consumer awareness of the damaging potential of double processing hair.
“We’re seeing more coloring, and as a result, less straightening treatments, so naturally there has been a reemergence of textured hair,”says Mixon.
Additionally, via websites like NaturallyCurly.com geared toward textured hair, and a wide network of curly-haired bloggers and vloggers, there has also been a large increase in consumer education of how to work with and wear natural texture.
“That’s the beauty of having an educated population: a multi-textured world,” says Anthony Dickey, lead stylist and founder of Hair Rules.
As the number of people wearing naturally textured hair increases, designers are picking up on this global trend and incorporating texture into their runway presentations.
“I think designers are also finding inspiration in models who are unapologetically sporting their natural hair,” says Dickey. “By incorporating naturally existing textures into their runway shows, designers create a more distinctive and authentic presentation to complement their unique aesthetics.”
On the Runway
Textured hair on the runway comes in a wide variety of forms depending on the designer’s overall concept. From loose waves to tightly kinked afros, stylists are exploring all options.
“This year we were seeing a lot of what we call ‘third-day hair,’” says Cutler salon stylist Mike Martinez. “It’s big, loose natural waves that create a sort of undone look.”
Another popular look is created from tighter curls that have been deconstructed for a voluminous look with a lot of movement. “This is a style I want to see more of,” says Mixon. “The bigger the better!”
Frizz has also become a fashion forerunner, according to Danilo: “I love the drama of frizz. It’s got a really playful structure.”
Working with a model’s hair texture, whether it’s frizz or flat, is becoming a popular method for runway stylists. Carlos Fernandez of LuxeLab, who is known for his innovative work in enhancing texture for runway shows, likes to adapt a model’s hair texture to the runway concept.
“If a look is straight with a deep side part, but a model has super kinky hair, I won’t necessarily blow the hair straight, but I will work to enhance the natural texture and incorporate the deep side part. It looks better on the model and is less work for the stylist,” he says.
However, texture isn’t always seen in variations of curls and waves. It’s also seen in the introduction of braids, twists, buns, knots and crimped pieces to the hair.
“Texture is about adding a bit of intrigue to the hair,” says Martinez. “It’s taking the extra step to add a bit of drama where the audience least expects it. That’s where you go from a normal salon style to a runway style.”
Mixon also noted that it’s rare to see a runway show without incorporating extensions into the looks: “Hair has to be exaggerated because it’s on stage,” she says.
Rising to the Challenge
Despite the growing popularity of texture on the runway, there still exists a lack of industry knowledge in working with curls.
“I learned how to work with textured hair because I am passionate about it and pursued working with texture on my own,” says Fashion Week stylist Jennifer Lord of Naturally Me! Salon in Baltimore. “It’s not something taught in cosmetology school.”
Behind the scenes of the Spring 2012 shows in Paris, model Jourdan Dunn tweeted her frustrations with lack of stylist knowledge in working with her texture.
“It’s so surprising to fi nd yourself at a show being styled by a stylist who knows how to work with my hair,” says model Nikia Phoenix.“I refuse to have my hair straightened anymore and I bring my own products because I’ve found I know texture better than most stylists. I keep my hair short because with less hair, there’s less risk of a stylist damaging my hair.”
With advancements in product formulations and tools, stylists are now equipped better than ever to create innovative, high-fashion, high-drama, haute-couture textured hair.
“Today we’re at the intersection of fashion and science,” says Danilo. “We have biological needs that science is helping to bring to the public.”
Because of that, interpretation of the word texture is going to be diverse: glam texture, ethnic texture, natural texture, manufactured texture and more. In the upcoming seasons, a return of vintage styling techniques such as setting, pin curls, plaiting, bouffant and fi nger waves combined with modern innovations in coloring and extensions will be the next wave in runway texture.
“The future is both a return to classic and natural techniques and hightech processes,” says Danilo. “Fashion is an opportunity to create a feeling, a vibe, a spirit.”
The life of a stylist is fraught with trials, triumphs and many tribulations, especially if you choose to specialize in textured tresses. Yes, some mistakes are inevitable no matter how savvy you are as a stylist — but you may be surprised how many common faux pas are avoidable. And, you don’t need years of experience to figure it out, if you’re willing to learn from the wisdom of those who spent decades creating a brave (and curly) new world.
Here, we turn to leading curl experts, and asked: If they knew then what they know now, what nostalgic advice would they share about styling curly hair? Read on for the top 5 lessons of curl-centric veterans — lessons they learned the hard way, so you don’t have to.
1: Set Realistic Expectations
When Ouidad, the “Queen of Curls,” first started styling curly hair, she acknowledges that her idealism took over.
“I wanted to change the world with the haircut that I gave them. I wanted to fix it all and change it all,” Ouidad says. “But it’s impossible to take a head of hair and change it all completely at once. What I learned is to really look at the hair, study all the curl patterns, and learn exactly how much curls shrink, each section, and how they fit within each other when you cut. It’s not like cutting straight hair, you can’t just change it all at once.”
So, instead of having an image of what you think you’re going to do with the client, like change their life, Ouidad encourages up-and-coming stylists to examine the different hair textures, really study them and understand them first.
2: Listening to Your Client
“Let the client talk, don’t talk over them. Just observe them,” says Denis DaSilva, co-owner of New York’s Devachan Salon. “You win over people when you agree with them. If you try to disagree, you’ll never win. Agree with them, and then change them a little to the right or left according to what needs to be done, but never say no.”
No is not a word your clients are going to accept easily. So, experts say, be certain you understand what they want before you react.
“You’re going to have to really listen,” adds Christo. “You’re going to have to analyze their hair, so you can give them options and ideas.”
3: Don’t Treat Curly Clients Like Straight-Haired Clients
Curl experts say you cannot treat curly clients the same way you treat clients with straight hair.
“Most of the time, people with straight hair will let you do whatever you want,” Christo says. “But with curly clients, you have to take into consideration that she has already tried many things and ended up in your chair because you claim you specialize in curly hair. So you have to live up to those expectations.”
And that can mean a much longer consultation for new clients. For example, Christo blocks out an hour for new clients. “We want to make sure that person is going to stay with us because we know we have all the solutions for them,” he says.
He suggests stylists ask themselves if they’re really comfortable styling curly hair. “Anyone can say they do curly hair, but can they really? Or, are they making disasters out there for us to fix?” Christo asks.
4: Don’t Let Curl-Phobia Get the Best of You
Although you may feel fear when first approaching curly clients, don’t give in to it.
“The first 10 years as a stylist, you’re so afraid of clients. When they want what they want, they make you concerned about that. The second ten years, you learn how to present what is better for them, but the end result is they will push you, even though you gave them whatever they wanted,” DaSilva says. “The third ten years, now you’re smarter. You listen, but learn how strategically to put them in a spot where you can always give them more.”
Especially when it comes to color, DaSilva warns that if you give the client too much control, it will be hard to get it back.
“I don’t have confrontations with any clients, but if they say I want a lot of blonde highlights, I’ll put the blonde strategically in places where they will see more blonde, but not necessarily doing more blonde,” he explains. “If they say I want a little red, I may know that warm brown, for them, is red.”
DaSilva says it’s all about understanding how to interpret and balance a client’s wants and needs.
Curl experts say your words matter a lot when styling curly hair clients.
“If you say, ‘I know exactly what I need to do,’ it just blows up in your face. Even if you do know, it just puts [the curly client] on the defense,” Ouidad says. “It’s essential to talk about how you’re going to work with the hair, what kind of movement you want to put in the hair. You want to be able to verbalize and explain how it’s going to fit and how it’s going to look like when the hair is dry.”
Ouidad says you can ease a curly’s fear by saying things like, “I know layers would be too rough for your hair, or it would shrink too much.” You really want to make sure curly clients know that you’re not going to give them ledges, a pyramid or some other shape they dread — and that you understand their texture.
“Make your client as comfortable and be trusting as possible by saying things that resonate with them,” Ouidad says.
The Official Seventh Annual Toilet Paper Wedding Dress Contest, hosted by Cheap Chic Weddings, gave away a total of $1750 to a grand prize, second place and third place winners. Now, while the winners looked fabulous in their toilet paper, haute couture gowns, we all know that, as stylists, nothing is finished without the hair. Here’s the down low on what wedding hairstyles work best with toilet paper dresses and how to get them.
Grand Prize Winner
Grand Prize winner, Susan Brennan, of Orchard Lake, MI entered a classically styled dress. Inspired by nature. She used flowers and feathers and balanced the dress with pleats on the bodice. She used 4 rolls of toilet paper, hot glue, and packing tape.
Susan’s winning dress has the soft romantic flair perfect for a beach wedding. Letting your tresses flow softly, allowing them to wisp around the face and delicately fall to the side are the “it” look for beachside nuptials.
For a wedding hairstyle with soft mermaid like waves, mist the hair with a light leave-in-conditioner and loosely braid with a light-hold gel. Next, allow the hair to dry in place. Release the braids and gently pull apart the waves.
Using an open iron, wrap locks around the barrel of a medium sized iron and release for long soft loose curls. Cinch to the side with a decorative clip or jeweled bobby pins for a side swept mermaid like style.
Second Place Winner
This year’s second place winner is Laura Lee of Milpitas, CA. Laura Lee used 5 rolls of one-ply toilet paper, transparent duct tape, first aid tape and spray adhesive. Her friend, Michelle, helped her put the dress together.
For Laura, a vintage spin on styling would suit this dress with its layered ruffles and corset-like bodice. Vintage or period wedding styles can incorporate many different looks. Pin curls, sleek finger waves or long soft deep waves can take this dress to another time and place.
To create a vintage wedding hairstyle, pin individual locks into place after curling with a large barrel iron, allowing the curl to cool into place. For soft, full waves, use a 3” barrel curling iron. A firm-holding hairspray will give all day hold.
For deep sleek waves, mold the hair into an s-patterned wave using a firm holing gel and finish off with a light shine spray to define the waves with sleek shine.
Third Place Winner
Cynthia used 20 rolls of toilet paper, duct tape, hot glue, Mod Podge glue and fabric glue. Her 8-year-old daughter, Rainey, helped her with her dress.
Cynthia represents a theme wedding. This dress is country chic and screams VOLUME, VOLUME, VOLUME!
Full natural curls created by hot rollers, large rollers or a large barrel curling iron, along with teasing, will give you “skies the limit” beautiful hair. Long tresses pinned high into a tussled bump or left down with southern belle fullness makes this country chic look the complete package!
Root lifters, volumizing mousse and sprays will keep the soft fullness through any reception.
All of these dresses represent different takes on the “modern” wedding dress. Anything from tulle, duct tape and even toilet paper can create an amazing dress. And incorporating marvelous, easy to create and inexpensive wedding hairstyles adds the finishing touch to any dress—no matter what the fabric!