4 Celebrity Curly Hairstyles for Your Arsenal

by CurlStylist on Wednesday, February 1st, 2012

Women in the spotlight are sporting more texture, and clients can look to them for inspiration. Learn how to create these celebrity curly hairstyles from the stylists who created them.

Annie Ilonzeh

Of “General Hospital” and TV’s “Charlie’s Angels”
Stylist: Rocky Vitelli, platform artist for Farouk

Using Farouk Royal Treatment, prep hair by cleansing with Pure Hydration Shampoo and Farouk Royal Treatment Aqua Charge Conditioner. Add Pearl Complex to wet hair, then blow dry using CHI Ceramic dryer.

Once hair is prepped, take small sections at the nape, horizontally. Spray the hair with Ultimate Control prior to curling for maximum hold. Using the ¾-inch CHI Digital Orbit Iron, curl the hair section by section, working your way to the top of the head. Once curled, pin sections up at the crown to give height and form. To ensure lasting hold, nish with Ultimate Control spray and Rapid Shine for silky, shiny, healthy results.

Corinne Bailey Rae

Singer
Stylist: Ami Mankey of Madusalon in San Francisco

The key to this wash-and-go style is to amplify the natural curl pattern by making sure hair has enough moisture. Don’t completely rinse out conditioner after washing, then trickle some water on to re-wet hair. Before air drying, shake curls loosely. All the conditioner will give a soft, light hold and hair will also be frizz free. For extra pizzazz, scrunch in light-hold styling products on slightly wet hair. For extra volume when hair is dry, put client’s head upside down and rub ngers on the scalp to backcomb the curls with ngers, rather than a comb. This will provide volume without the frizz.

Hayden Panetierre

Actress
Stylist: Ami Mankey of Madusalon in San Francisco

For this easy-to-achieve, elegant updo, apply a light hold styling product after washing and conditioning hair. Let air dry or gently use a diffuser. Once dry, pull back hair into a loose bun. For the piece-y, slick look, gently glide pomade through hair using ngertips. To create the sexy pompadour on top, use the back of a rat tail comb to tease and lift hair from the roots. Finish with a little shine spray for bling and nishing spray for hold.

Jill Scott

R&B singer/actress
Stylist: Felicia Leatherwood, Scott’s personal stylist

Wash and condition the hair, then apply a leave-in conditioner and seal with a serum before blowing out the hair. Section hair with a dramatic angle from front to back, going in an “S” pattern.

Isolate one whole side of hair from the side where the braid pattern will be. Use a small amount of synthetic hair to support the cornrows, so the natural hair is protected. After completing one side of the head with the desired cornrow design, join all of the braids into one continuous braid that follows the S parting down the middle of the head from front to back.

Sew Bohyme human hair on the side of the head with the one continuous braid. Follow the pattern of the braid until the one side is complete, leaving the cornrow designs exposed. Once human-hair sewing has been completed on the one side, cut and shape the Bohyme hair, giving it volume. Finish the style with a luster and shine serum.

Textured Hair on the Runway

by Cassadie on Wednesday, February 1st, 2012

The spotlight is on texture in the fashion industry, and we don’t mean tweeds, wools and ruching. Curls, kinks and waves are front and center on the runway this season.

Sleek, flat locks are a thing of the past on the runway as fashion designers and hair stylists draw inspiration from the textured-hair revolution taking place around the world. Together, they have resurrected the art of the curl and are putting it center stage in fashion shows everywhere.

The versatility of texture provides stylists with an infinite amount of creative possibilities for designing high-drama, high fashion, haute couture hair to complement the equally dramatic clothing created by renowned designers.

“Rather than sleek, straightened hair, what we’re seeing more and more of in fashion is a celebration and enhancement of texture,”says runway and celebrity stylist Danilo.

Consumer Influence

The fashion industry draws its inspiration not only from other cultures and eras, but also from what’s happening on urban streets. Tammy Mixon of Farouk’s Global Artistic Board says she has noticed more consumer awareness of the damaging potential of double processing hair.

“We’re seeing more coloring, and as a result, less straightening treatments, so naturally there has been a reemergence of textured hair,”says Mixon.

Additionally, via websites like NaturallyCurly.com geared toward textured hair, and a wide network of curly-haired bloggers and vloggers, there has also been a large increase in consumer education of how to work with and wear natural texture.

“That’s the beauty of having an educated population: a multi-textured world,” says Anthony Dickey, lead stylist and founder of Hair Rules.

As the number of people wearing naturally textured hair increases, designers are picking up on this global trend and incorporating texture into their runway presentations.

“I think designers are also finding inspiration in models who are unapologetically sporting their natural hair,” says Dickey. “By incorporating naturally existing textures into their runway shows, designers create a more distinctive and authentic presentation to complement their unique aesthetics.”

On the Runway

Textured hair on the runway comes in a wide variety of forms depending on the designer’s overall concept. From loose waves to tightly kinked afros, stylists are exploring all options.

“This year we were seeing a lot of what we call ‘third-day hair,’” says Cutler salon stylist Mike Martinez. “It’s big, loose natural waves that create a sort of undone look.”

Another popular look is created from tighter curls that have been deconstructed for a voluminous look with a lot of movement. “This is a style I want to see more of,” says Mixon. “The bigger the better!”

Frizz has also become a fashion forerunner, according to Danilo: “I love the drama of frizz. It’s got a really playful structure.”

Working with a model’s hair texture, whether it’s frizz or flat, is becoming a popular method for runway stylists. Carlos Fernandez of LuxeLab, who is known for his innovative work in enhancing texture for runway shows, likes to adapt a model’s hair texture to the runway concept.

“If a look is straight with a deep side part, but a model has super kinky hair, I won’t necessarily blow the hair straight, but I will work to enhance the natural texture and incorporate the deep side part. It looks better on the model and is less work for the stylist,” he says.

However, texture isn’t always seen in variations of curls and waves. It’s also seen in the introduction of braids, twists, buns, knots and crimped pieces to the hair.

“Texture is about adding a bit of intrigue to the hair,” says Martinez. “It’s taking the extra step to add a bit of drama where the audience least expects it. That’s where you go from a normal salon style to a runway style.”

Mixon also noted that it’s rare to see a runway show without incorporating extensions into the looks: “Hair has to be exaggerated because it’s on stage,” she says.

Rising to the Challenge

Despite the growing popularity of texture on the runway, there still exists a lack of industry knowledge in working with curls.

“I learned how to work with textured hair because I am passionate about it and pursued working with texture on my own,” says Fashion Week stylist Jennifer Lord of Naturally Me! Salon in Baltimore. “It’s not something taught in cosmetology school.”

Behind the scenes of the Spring 2012 shows in Paris, model Jourdan Dunn tweeted her frustrations with lack of stylist knowledge in working with her texture.

“It’s so surprising to fi nd yourself at a show being styled by a stylist who knows how to work with my hair,” says model Nikia Phoenix.“I refuse to have my hair straightened anymore and I bring my own products because I’ve found I know texture better than most stylists. I keep my hair short because with less hair, there’s less risk of a stylist damaging my hair.”

What’s Next

With advancements in product formulations and tools, stylists are now equipped better than ever to create innovative, high-fashion, high-drama, haute-couture textured hair.

“Today we’re at the intersection of fashion and science,” says Danilo. “We have biological needs that science is helping to bring to the public.”

Because of that, interpretation of the word texture is going to be diverse: glam texture, ethnic texture, natural texture, manufactured texture and more. In the upcoming seasons, a return of vintage styling techniques such as setting, pin curls, plaiting, bouffant and fi nger waves combined with modern innovations in coloring and extensions will be the next wave in runway texture.

“The future is both a return to classic and natural techniques and hightech processes,” says Danilo. “Fashion is an opportunity to create a feeling, a vibe, a spirit.”

Styling Curly Hair: 5 Common Mistakes

by CurlStylist on Thursday, September 1st, 2011

Ouidad, Queen of Curls.

The life of a stylist is fraught with trials, triumphs and many tribulations, especially if you choose to specialize in textured tresses. Yes, some mistakes are inevitable no matter how savvy you are as a stylist — but you may be surprised how many common faux pas are avoidable. And, you don’t need years of experience to figure it out, if you’re willing to learn from the wisdom of those who spent decades creating a brave (and curly) new world.

Here, we turn to leading curl experts, and asked: If they knew then what they know now, what nostalgic advice would they share about styling curly hair? Read on for the top 5 lessons of curl-centric veterans — lessons they learned the hard way, so you don’t have to.

1: Set Realistic Expectations

When Ouidad, the “Queen of Curls,” first started styling curly hair, she acknowledges that her idealism took over.

“I wanted to change the world with the haircut that I gave them. I wanted to fix it all and change it all,” Ouidad says. “But it’s impossible to take a head of hair and change it all completely at once. What I learned is to really look at the hair, study all the curl patterns, and learn exactly how much curls shrink, each section, and how they fit within each other when you cut. It’s not like cutting straight hair, you can’t just change it all at once.”

So, instead of having an image of what you think you’re going to do with the client, like change their life, Ouidad encourages up-and-coming stylists to examine the different hair textures, really study them and understand them first.

2: Listening to Your Client

“Let the client talk, don’t talk over them. Just observe them,” says Denis DaSilva, co-owner of New York’s Devachan Salon. “You win over people when you agree with them. If you try to disagree, you’ll never win. Agree with them, and then change them a little to the right or left according to what needs to be done, but never say no.”

No is not a word your clients are going to accept easily. So, experts say, be certain you understand what they want before you react.

“You’re going to have to really listen,” adds Christo. “You’re going to have to analyze their hair, so you can give them options and ideas.”

3: Don’t Treat Curly Clients Like Straight-Haired Clients

Curl experts say you cannot treat curly clients the same way you treat clients with straight hair.

“Most of the time, people with straight hair will let you do whatever you want,” Christo says. “But with curly clients, you have to take into consideration that she has already tried many things and ended up in your chair because you claim you specialize in curly hair. So you have to live up to those expectations.”

And that can mean a much longer consultation for new clients. For example, Christo blocks out an hour for new clients. “We want to make sure that person is going to stay with us because we know we have all the solutions for them,” he says.

He suggests stylists ask themselves if they’re really comfortable styling curly hair. “Anyone can say they do curly hair, but can they really? Or, are they making disasters out there for us to fix?” Christo asks.

4: Don’t Let Curl-Phobia Get the Best of You

Although you may feel fear when first approaching curly clients, don’t give in to it.

“The first 10 years as a stylist, you’re so afraid of clients. When they want what they want, they make you concerned about that. The second ten years, you learn how to present what is better for them, but the end result is they will push you, even though you gave them whatever they wanted,” DaSilva says. “The third ten years, now you’re smarter. You listen, but learn how strategically to put them in a spot where you can always give them more.”

Especially when it comes to color, DaSilva warns that if you give the client too much control, it will be hard to get it back.

“I don’t have confrontations with any clients, but if they say I want a lot of blonde highlights, I’ll put the blonde strategically in places where they will see more blonde, but not necessarily doing more blonde,” he explains. “If they say I want a little red, I may know that warm brown, for them, is red.”

DaSilva says it’s all about understanding how to interpret and balance a client’s wants and needs.

5: Communicate

Curl experts say your words matter a lot when styling curly hair clients.

“If you say, ‘I know exactly what I need to do,’ it just blows up in your face. Even if you do know, it just puts [the curly client] on the defense,” Ouidad says. “It’s essential to talk about how you’re going to work with the hair, what kind of movement you want to put in the hair. You want to be able to verbalize and explain how it’s going to fit and how it’s going to look like when the hair is dry.”

Ouidad says you can ease a curly’s fear by saying things like, “I know layers would be too rough for your hair, or it would shrink too much.” You really want to make sure curly clients know that you’re not going to give them ledges, a pyramid or some other shape they dread — and that you understand their texture.

“Make your client as comfortable and be trusting as possible by saying things that resonate with them,” Ouidad says.

Read all of this bi-annual issue of Texture!

Wedding Hairstyles for Toilet Paper Dresses

by Kateri Johnson on Saturday, July 30th, 2011

The Official Seventh Annual Toilet Paper Wedding Dress Contest, hosted by Cheap Chic Weddings, gave away a total of $1750 to a grand prize, second place and third place winners. Now, while the winners looked fabulous in their toilet paper, haute couture gowns, we all know that, as stylists, nothing is finished without the hair. Here’s the down low on what wedding hairstyles work best with toilet paper dresses and how to get them.

Grand Prize Winner

Grand Prize winner, Susan Brennan, of Orchard Lake, MI entered a classically styled dress. Inspired by nature. She used flowers and feathers and balanced the dress with pleats on the bodice. She used 4 rolls of toilet paper, hot glue, and packing tape.

Susan’s winning dress has the soft romantic flair perfect for a beach wedding. Letting your tresses flow softly, allowing them to wisp around the face and delicately fall to the side are the “it” look for beachside nuptials.

For a wedding hairstyle with soft mermaid like waves, mist the hair with a light leave-in-conditioner and loosely braid with a light-hold gel. Next, allow the hair to dry in place. Release the braids and gently pull apart the waves.

Using an open iron, wrap locks around the barrel of a medium sized iron and release for long soft loose curls. Cinch to the side with a decorative clip or jeweled bobby pins for a side swept mermaid like style.

Second Place Winner

This year’s second place winner is Laura Lee of Milpitas, CA. Laura Lee used 5 rolls of one-ply toilet paper, transparent duct tape, first aid tape and spray adhesive. Her friend, Michelle, helped her put the dress together.

For Laura, a vintage spin on styling would suit this dress with its layered ruffles and corset-like bodice. Vintage or period wedding styles can incorporate many different looks. Pin curls, sleek finger waves or long soft deep waves can take this dress to another time and place.

To create a vintage wedding hairstyle, pin individual locks into place after curling with a large barrel iron, allowing the curl to cool into place. For soft, full waves, use a 3” barrel curling iron. A firm-holding hairspray will give all day hold.

For deep sleek waves, mold the hair into an s-patterned wave using a firm holing gel and finish off with a light shine spray to define the waves with sleek shine.

Third Place Winner

Cynthia used 20 rolls of toilet paper, duct tape, hot glue, Mod Podge glue and fabric glue. Her 8-year-old daughter, Rainey, helped her with her dress.

Cynthia represents a theme wedding. This dress is country chic and screams VOLUME, VOLUME, VOLUME!

Full natural curls created by hot rollers, large rollers or a large barrel curling iron, along with teasing, will give you “skies the limit” beautiful hair. Long tresses pinned high into a tussled bump or left down with southern belle fullness makes this country chic look the complete package!

Root lifters, volumizing mousse and sprays will keep the soft fullness through any reception.

All of these dresses represent different takes on the “modern” wedding dress. Anything from tulle, duct tape and even toilet paper can create an amazing dress. And incorporating marvelous, easy to create and inexpensive wedding hairstyles adds the finishing touch to any dress—no matter what the fabric!

Can Clients Trust Hair Straightening Products Again?

by Raydine Vigil - Salon Owner, Chicago Hair Care, Chicago, IL on Sunday, July 10th, 2011

Many former keratin clients are saying, to paraphrase Huey Lewis, “I want a new drug, one that won’t make me sick, one that won’t hurt my head.”

More than five years ago the Brazilian Keratin treatments came to the American market. Almost three years ago the formaldehyde safety issue came up. Last year, the testing yielded negative results, though the accuracy of the method came under question. As of now, temporary straightening has come to a screeching halt.

What we have available now, though, is like comparing apples to oranges because the chemicals in newer hair straightening products are different and react in different ways.

Human hair has many textures, from fine to coarse and from straight to curly. Curly hair is made of hair strands that have irregular surfaces that mesh and tangle with each other to make combing or smoothing difficult. Hair is made of keratin which in turn is made of polypeptide chains bonded together by cysteine (or disulfide) bonds, hydrogen bonds and salt linkages.

Cysteine is one of the nineteen amino acids used to form protein. During hair formation this important sulphur containing amino acid helps form disulphide bonds. Cysteine is the most prominent disulphide amino acid that cross links protein chains and gives hair stability. It is ground zero for molecular rearrangement during permanent waving, thermal reconditioning and curl reduction.

These bonds are responsible for the hair structure and may be broken by certain reduction reactions. The most common reductive agents are thioglycolic acid and its derivatives such as ammonium thioglycolate, cystamine hydrochloride and sodium bisulfite. They react on the hair keratin by breaking disulfide bonds that link cysteine units; this way, they form cystine, the main component of keratin.

The second rearrangement technique uses a hydroxide such as sodium hydroxide, guanindinium hydroxide or lithium hydroxide. When exposed to a relaxer, the hair chemically transforms from cysteine bonds to lanthionine bonds. For this reason, the term for chemical relaxing process is lanthionization.

The cosmetic formaldehydes, aldehydes, methylene glycols all reduced the cysteine bonds in the hair by compressing (defrizziing or reducing volume), smoothing or straightening (curl reduction or elimination) the hair. One company in particular capitalized on this idea by increasing the reducers to increase the straightening and decrease the resting time.

The new amino acid based hair straightening products (Zerran Realisse, Pravana Perfection, Enjoy Keratin Smoothing, Unnique Amino Keratin, Keragreen) fill the irregular portion of the hair strand, temporarily shifting a smaller amount of the disulfide bonds with cystine and making the hair feel thicker. They do not compress or straighten in the same way that previous keratin treatments did because they are not similar at all.

Clients that have never had the aldehyde based treatment will see curl softening, faster drying, slight volume reduction and some humidity resistance.

Clients who have had the aldehyde treatments before will say that most of the amino acid smoothers do not work because the manufacturers are promising similar if not exact results and they are not experiencing that.

A strong consultation for new clients and a hybrid treatment for previous clients is the solution at this point. Since the change to formaldehyde free formulas three years ago, I have been doing partial curl reduction with a keratin sealer. Since June of this year, I have been testing one hair straightening product that combines the two step hybrid service.

The Brazilian Keratin helped fill the gap for clients whose hair or needs did not meet the criteria for reducers and that gap is now open again, along with the public’s distrust of hairdressers.

Hair Gel Tips: Shampoo in Your Gel

by Ivan Zoot/The Clipper Guy on Tuesday, June 28th, 2011

Ivan Zoot is the director of education and customer engagement for the Andis Company and the founder of Zoot! Hair professional hair care products. Ivan identifies, recruits, trains and manages Andis’s team of professional beauty industry educators. Ivan continues to be a featured presenter at industry shows and events, sharing his unique blend of information, education and enthusiasm for clipper cutting and the entire professional beauty industry. Ivan’s background includes experiences ranging from salon ownership to achieving 3 Guinness World Haircutting records. Here, he shares his cutting and business-building expertise.

Here are some hair gel tips I have used with much success.

The problem is that clients have a hard time applying styling mousses and gels. They do not know how much to use and how to apply it for maximum results and satisfaction with their finished style.

The solution is called shampooing in your gel. Many clients struggle with styling liquids because they get some here, a bit there and none in many areas. They need to apply the styling product thoroughly, evenly and consistently—this is always more difficult with curly hair.

The two key elements of the technique are coating your hands and transferring the product to ALL of the hair.

Place a sufficient quantity of mousse or gel in your hand. How much is sufficient? Likely you need to use a LOT more than you regularly do. A ball of mousse should be golf-ball sized if the client’s hair is quite short. Baseball-sized for mid-lengths hair that is above the shoulder and more as hair is longer and thicker. Liquid gels should be a puddle big enough to risk spilling out of your hand (hands over the sink please, watch that carpet). Styling liquids should then be “washed” into/on to your hands. Use an interlacing motion much like hand washing to coat your hands on both sides and between your fingers. This will set you up to truly coat the hair with product.

Then it is time to shampoo the hair. We call it shampooing because the application motion is just as you would do when you shampoo your hair. Work it in and all over and around and through. Most of the time clients apply product “on” their hair. The product is placed on the surface, the top of the hair and mainly in the front where they can easily see it and reach it. The shampooing motion is effective in working the styling product in and around and through all of the hair. This complete coverage and distribution will make a big difference in the styling results clients achieve. This is especially true with products intended to manage frizz and add shine. Missed areas have no chance to benefit from all the good these products can offer.

Shampoo your shampoo in the shower…but shampoo in your styling product for maximum results.

Top 8 Natural Hair Styles

by CurlStylist on Tuesday, June 28th, 2011

Design Essentials Salon Systems recently released the results of its online Natural Hair Survey, and the latest announcement revealed the top natural hair styles fueling this explosively popular trend. Two hundred African American and Hispanic women, ages 18-64, participated in the survey to assess their attitudes and behaviors toward wearing natural hair.

The natural hair trend celebrates the natural texture of each woman’s hair and embraces their curls, coils and kinks. Women showcase a wide range of natural hair styles based on their texture, lifestyle, maintenance routine and styling preferences. Design Essentials found that the top styles are wash and go, thermally straightened or extensions/wigs/weaves. Braided styles were found to be slightly less prevalent.

Results from the survey are as follows:

6% - Twists

6% - Straightened

9% - Afro

10% - Dreads/Locks

11% - Braids

19% - Thermally Straightened

14% - Extenstions/Wigs/Weaves

28% - Wash and Go

“The natural hair trend has emerged as more than a passing fad, and professional styling experts, classes, products, blogs, magazines and industry conferences have created a new a niche in the industry,” Tracey Gibson, Director of Marketing for McBride Research Laboratory, creator of Design Essentials®, added. “All of this activity focuses on coming together to understand the needs of women who are wearing natural hair styles or transitioning, distributing the best information and offering the right products and services. The results of our survey are a key part of these efforts and we continue to conduct this vital research.”

Utilizing the results found in the Natural Hair Survey, Design Essentials most recently participated in the World Natural Hair, Health, & Beauty Show by offering educational classes to both professional stylists and consumers. The classes, which focused on the versatile styling options of natural hair and Design Essentials Natural, were a huge hit amongst attendees. Design Essentials also offers the Step by Step Styling Guide that features six beautiful and simple styles for natural hair, which is accessible online at www.designessentials.com.

Hollywood Hair Color by Pasqualle Caselle

by Megan Dorcey on Monday, June 27th, 2011

Artistic Educator for IT&LY HAIRFASHION, Pasquale Caselle utilized the looks of Hollywood past with Hollywood present. Each model has 2 looks that depict the importance of great hair color to capture each design.

Hollywood Red Head: The inspiration for model Kelly was to create something to bring out the dramatic looks of past Hollywood hair styles with the glamour of today.

The Color Formula: On a level 6 base, IT&LY HAIRFASHION’S AQUAR&LY 8A (Light Orange Blonde) mixed with 20 volume AQUAR&LY Developer was used to create this dynamic and sultry Hollywood red head.

Style # 1 How to Achieve the Look:

Pure Fluid Experience was applied after gently towel drying her freshly washed hair for added volume. To style, use a medium round brush and blow drying piece by piece to create a bit of bend in the hair. After the entire head is blown dry, lightly tease the root area and smooth with a soft bristle brush. Use Pure Water Drops on the ends to add shine and definition of the loose curls. To finish, spray lightly with Pure Definition Aerosol Spray.

Style # 2 How to Achieve the Look:

Begin by teasing the entire head from roots to end. This is what will create the volume and base for this updo. Apply Pure Water Drops on the ends to create a bit of definition with the curls. Spray the entire head with Pure Definition Aerosol Spray and begin to manipulate the hair up towards the crown, yet not too tight as you want to create a deconstructed look. Secure with pins. Finish with Pure Definition Aerosol Spray.

How to Create Scarlett Johansson’s Auburn Updo

by CurlStylist on Friday, June 24th, 2011

Scarlett Johansson

Celebrity hairstylist David Babaii has created many celebrity updos including Scarlett Johansson’s look for the 5th Annual Spike TV Guys Choice Awards. To create her beautiful auburn shade for your clients, David recommends using Couture Colour Luxeblend Creme Hair Colour with Pequi Oil.

• Hair is 200% stronger after one color application

• Deep, penetrating color without ammonia

• No-drip, multi-dimensional glossy color

To achieve the look, David started with a small amount of Pequi Oil massaged through the hair after shampooing. Next, he dried her tresses using his hands throughout to build volume and texture. When dry, he added additional Pequi Oil to his hands using his fingers to comb the hair back, allowing sections to fall into place naturally. To finish, David twisted and bobby pinned strands to create a “piecey” updo.