Hair Straightening Products: The Next Generation

by Modern Salon on Thursday, September 1st, 2011

Struggling with challenges ranging from frizz to unruly hair, curly clients have searched far and wide for ways to manage their manes. But in the not-so-distant past, when they came into the salon asking to get their hair straightened, they really only had two chemical service options: a traditional relaxer or a Japanese straightening treatment.

Then, almost overnight, “keratin” became the buzzword of the beauty industry, shifting the k-word context from “protein and conditioning” to smoothing and straightening. This new anti-wave of hair straightening products, known for giving clients with textured hair a straight, sleek look that lasted for months, became the new trend in texture management. This generated a boom of curly, wavy and even straight-haired clients running into salons to reap the “life-changing,” frizz-fighting benefits, even as questions and concerns about the process were being raised.

A Star Category is Born

With the downward-turning economy and traditional appointment stretching affecting salons, timing was good for companies to introduce a new revenue-generating service built upon strong consumer demand and dramatic results. Thus, dozens of new brands popped up, all selling their own variation of keratin straightening treatments.

This first generation of “Brazilian” keratin treatments after the country where the service originated — were formulated to last three to four months and generated an average ticket of $400.

Manufacturers of these new products and their R&D scientists proclaimed that replacing keratin in the hair could restructure and recondition hair fibers, refilling the holes and gaps in the hair shaft caused by chemical services and environmental factors, and that the process could even straighten hair when the formula was “sealed in” with a flat iron heated to 450 degrees.

Straight Evolves into “Smooth”

Alongside the big consumer buzz about keratin straightening came a wave of safety questions and concerns from consumers, salon professionals, associations and competitive brands alike. Most were focused on the levels of formaldehyde released when the solution was processed by the high-temp irons.

In response, the category has evolved significantly and competitively in 2011, morphing into smoothing treatments. Some notable changes:

• One brand may now offer a menu of different formulas for different hair types or “strength” of results.

• Education, both of salon professionals and consumers, has become key for serious players in the segment.

• Some brands have dropped “Brazilian” altogether from the name or description of the service.

• Interest has grown in alternatives to keratin treatments.

• Semi-permanent formulations designed to last only 4-6 weeks are growing in popularity. They can be overlapped with each application, and reach optimal potential after 2-4 applications.

• Many brands now focus on marketing low to no-formaldyde (or any –aldehyde) smoothing treatment alternatives, with minimal irritating odors or fumes.

• Even companies that elect not to get into the chemical service realm of smoothing are launching retail, take-home smoothing products, some utilizing keratin and some positioned to create a similar, albeit short-term, effect (up to 72 hours, for instance).

At Cosmoprof North America in Las Vegas, many of the new generation of smoothing treatments were on display, with marketing and education teams showing off their latest innovations. From Long Beach to Orlando, brands showed off their safety certificates to stylists at hair shows.

Jonathan Antin’s Tips to a Perfect Blowout

by CurlStylist on Friday, June 17th, 2011

Jonathan Antin offers blowout tips.

During the recent Tribeca Film Festival, Conair set up a Style Studio in the Arts and Cinema Lounge to offer celebrities quick touch ups before their red carpet debuts. On hand to assist with blow outs was blow out pro and celebrity hairdresser Jonathan Antin, and he graciously shared his tips for the perfect bouncy blow out.

Tips for a Bouncy Blow Out from Jonathan Antin:

• For an extra voluminous bouncy blowout, begin by towel drying clean, wet hair. Be certain that hair is rinsed VERY thoroughly.
• Use a wide-toothed comb to untangle hair.
• With a professional-quality dryer that has a cool shot button, dry hair upside down. Follow by smoothing out ends with a round brush on a low, warm setting. Engage the cool shot button every 15-20 seconds.
• A professional quality dryer with ionic technology is key because the AC motors featured in these dryers dry hair faster, minimizing damage and frizz.
• When hair is completely dry, divide hair into 2-inch sections.
• Begin at the top of the head, toward forehead and work backwards. Wrap hair around a round brush with a medium-sized barrel so that the section is rolled toward the back of the head.
• Using high heat and a concentrator nozzle to pinpoint airflow, dry hair from root to end for 8 seconds, then freeze into place using the cool shot button for 5 seconds. This technique is similar to hot rolling and gets volume, separation and definition. If hair is excessively curly, you can dry hair from mid-shaft to end to minimize styling time.
• When finished with the top of head, dry hair on sides and back, pointing the dryer downward. This avoids get class=”bullets” style=”clear:left;”ting frizz and fly-aways.
• Dab a pea-sized amount of styling cream into your hands, and smooth it into the ends of hair to define and separate tresses.
• Finish hair with a light hold flexible hairspray.

The New “Japzilian” Hair Treatment

by Susonnah Gonzalez on Tuesday, April 19th, 2011

The new Japzilian smoothing treatment from California comes from the Joseph Martin Salon in Beverly Hills.

In the late 1990s, the Japanese hair straightening technique emerged as a way to permanently straighten hair. This method of straightening is also known as Thermal Reconditioning, and it combines the use of chemicals and heat to re-texturize the hair. Then the Brazilian Keratin Treatment made its way into salons worldwide as a revolutionary treatment utilizing proteins to deep condition hair while also smoothing the texture. Hair straightening techniques continue to evolve today, but perhaps none as innovative as the new Japzilian treatment.

The Japzilian is an ingenious marriage between the Brazilian Keratin Treatment and the Japanese Hair Straightening system. Combining the most advantageous qualities of both treatments, the Japzilian strives to give better results than either treatment could alone. The treatment was concocted in the Joseph Martin Salon in Beverly Hills, where G-San, a stylist and Artistic Color Director for the Joseph Martin Salon, had the idea for the Japzilian. G-San is the salon’s straightening expert, and has been styling hair for more than 14 years. The Japzilian is exclusively offered at the North Rodeo Drive location, where G-San works and has been whipping up the treatment for about eight months.

“Basically it’s a Japanese straight perm that is layered with keratin treatment. It gives fullness, body and shine to any type of hair—curly, fine, or ethnic,” says James Kendall, son of owner Joseph Kendall. Kendall has been styling hair for 25 years, and serves as the artistic director of the salon. Although the exact ingredients cannot be shared, Kendall assures that the treatment is simple. G-San has essentially combined his favorite Japanese straightening perm, Innosys, with his favorite keratin complex, Coppola.

“It’s a very interesting concept,” says Kendall, “He layers them on top of each other. And it only takes three and a half to four hours.” This is considerably shorter than the amount of time it takes to complete a Japanese straightening perm, which is roughly six hours. Although the name is funky and reptilian sounding, the results are anything but. The effects of the Japzilian are smooth, shiny locks that last up to five months longer than a normal Brazilian Keratin Treatment.

Pravana Launches New Smoothing Treatment

by CurlStylist on Tuesday, April 5th, 2011

Pravana’s Perfection SmoothOut

Pravana has launched Perfection SmoothOut—a patent-pending formula—that instantly transforms frizzy, coarse, or curly hair into soft, smooth locks, fulfilling a client’s desires while keeping her and her hair healthy and sexy. Innovation is on your side with Perfection’s proprietary Nano-Amino Complex, which suspends the internal and textural memory of the hair, transforming it to a new soft, sensual look and feel. There has never been anything like this product before.

Perfection is yours for the taking. Perfection SmoothOut expertly restores hair to an incredibly healthy and gorgeous state beyond expectations. Perfection’s low pH formula contains no harsh chemicals. Unlike the trouble-filled hair smoothing services of the recent past, Pravana’s advanced formula lets you set your flat iron to just 360 degrees, and claims to actually improve the integrity of the hair. Perfection’s gentle formula allows for cleansing and color services to be performed immediately after the SmoothOut, so your clients can leave with a stunning shade to go with their textural transformation.

After receiving the Perfection SmoothOut, clients can stay head-turning for eight to ten weeks with the aid of the specially formulated system Pravana created to ensure the longevity of the SmoothOut.

Check out the video about Pravana’s new treatment.

Design Essentials Exec Walks the Walk with Her Natural ‘Do

by Michelle Breyer on Thursday, March 17th, 2011

Cyntelia Abrams

Marketing coordinator Cyntelia Abrams was walking down the hall at Design Essentials two years ago, bemoaning the fact she needed another relaxer, when a visiting stylist suggested she go natural instead.

Abrams, who started working for the Georgia-based haircare company in 2005, had experimented with low-lye relaxers, but she had never been quite ready to embrace her natural texture.

“I hadn’t seen my natural hair since I was five years old,” Abrams says. “Growing up, I never thought natural hair was pretty.”

She decided to transition to her natural hair. “I was still wearing my hair straight,” says Abrams during an interview at ‘Fro Fashion Week in Atlanta.

Finally, a year and a half ago, the light bulb went off. She said it was time that she finally embraced her natural hair— kinks, coils and all.

“I can’t just love my natural hair when it’s straight,” she says. “I realized—this is my hair. It was time to get comfortable in my own skin.”

Although she still wears her hair straight every now and then, Abrams says she wears it natural most of the time. Usually, she just wets it and goes.

And Abrams’s acceptance of her own natural ‘do is reflected by Design Essentials, which is committed to natural hair. The company developed its Natural Hair Care System— a collection of curl definition products infused with a combination of natural butters and oils to maintain and style loose wavy to tightly coiled hair textures. Each product is specially formulated with a blend of nourishing natural ingredients such as jojoba, cocoa butter, coconut oil, soy and almond oil to better meet the individual needs of each hair type. The ingredients provide the intense moisture that natural hair needs and the curl definition the natural consumer desires.

“We love natural hair,” Abrams says. “We’re committed to natural hair. This isn’t just a trend. It’s a lifestyle and it’s here to stay.”

Cyntelia shares her favorite products and tips:

“My favorite products are the Design Essentials Natural Curl Cleanser and Moisturizing Conditioner. I love how they soften and detangle my hair. I also love the smell!”

“I usually style my hair by doing a Wet Two Strand Twist Set. Tips for achieving the best results with this style:

1. Detangle before twisting. Detangling helps to remove any hair/coils that have shedded during shampooing and conditioning. Detangling also creates a smoother curl/twist once the style is dry and taken apart.

2. Sit under a dryer. I’ve found that my twists are more defined, with no frizz, when I sit under a dryer versus air drying.

3. Allow hair to stay twisted for at least 1 or 2 days before untwisting the hair. This allows the wave/twist pattern to form for more curl definition with the style once twists are taken apart.”

Hot New Products from ABS

by ABS '11 on Wednesday, March 16th, 2011

Chicago, IL - In addition to wild new hairstyles and dramatic shows, a number of brands debuted hot new products at this year’s America’s Beauty Show. Here are some of the ones that caught our attention.

Tigi’s Session Series. From Tigi’s Catwalk collection comes the new Session Series, seven new styling products designed to help stylists get high-fashion looks. Some of the standouts inclue Styling Cream, Salt Spray and Work It Hairspray.

Original Moxie. I approached a girl with gorgeous curls on the show floor, and it turned out she recently launched Original Moxie, a line of botanically-enriched, natural products tailored to fit the needs of diverse hair types. Curlies will love Mane Tame, Everyday Leave-in, Shape Shifter, Twist Mist, Hair Blong and Oasis Moisture Gel.

Brazilian Blowout’s Zero. From Brazilian Blowout comes Zero, a new smoothing solution with 0% formaldehyde released before, during or after treatment. It uses a proprietary plant-derived KeraSafe Bonding System to deposit and seal essential amino acids into the hair, lasting up to 12 weeks.

Tigi

Original Moxie

Brazilian Blowout

Other noteworthy products:

Aquage’s Biomega. Aquage launched its new Biomega line, a collection of new styling and texturizing products. Some of the noteworthy products include Behave Smoothing Elixer, Text Me Flexible Taffy and Shake It! Volumie Boosting Activator. Shake It! contains powdered polymers enhanced with omega-rich spirulina that can be combined with other products to increase the hold. The more you shake in, the stronger the hold and volume.

Pravana’s Perfection SmoothOut. Pravana Naturceuticals unveiled new Perfection SmoothOut, a patent-pending formula that smooths frizzy, coarse or curly hair. Perfection’s low pH formula contains no harsh chemicals. The gentle formula allows for cleansing and color services immediately after the SmoothOut. The service lasts eight to 10 weeks when used with Perfection Smoothing Shampoo and Conditioner.

Kenra’s Platinum Recovery Polish. Kenra introduced new Platinum Recovery Polish, an ultra-lightweight restorative leave-in treatment that combats dehydration and smoothes the damaged cuticle of the hair for incredible softness and definition with natural movement. It resists humidity for up to 20 hours, so it’s perfect for blowouts and naturally curly styles.

Biolage Limited Edition Shampoo and Conditioner

Biolage. As part of its Spring Renewal Launch, Biolage introduced a co-branded Limited Edition Shampoo and Conditioner. Products from participating salons will benefit the Conservation Fund’s Go Zero program. In return, Biolage will donate up to $100,000 to the fund to restore America’s forests and offset harmful carbon dioxide emissions. Customers buying the shampoo and conditioner will also receive a free Spring Renewal travel body kit.

ABS Texture! Panel with Top Curl Experts was a Huge Success

by Alicia Ward on Tuesday, March 15th, 2011

America’s Beauty Show was underway and thousands of stylist and salon owners gather to expand their knowledge, see top stylist and enjoy the entire “show” experience. Sunday March 13th was a huge day at ABS as it was the second annual “Texture” programming.

Texture! returned to ABS this year! This one-of-a kind free event showcased leading texture experts and educators in an intimate, interactive forum which included live hair demos. Texture! was hosted by NaturallyCurly.com founder Michelle Breyer and Modern Salon’s Editor-in-Chief Laurel Nelson, highlights of the event included:

Texture Trends: Fashion, Entertainment and Pop Culture Influences
Texture Cut, Color and Style: How-To Demos and Advice
Texture Opportunities: Make More Money Serving Curly Clients
Texture for Men: What’s New for Curly Guys?
Texture Q&A: Our experts, your questions!

Attendees were able to meet and greet the leading texture educators and brand leaders. The panel included the following:

John Benedetto, Director of Education for GK Hair: John has over 25 years of experience in the salon industry. In his prior role as Aveda’s Director of Global Hair Color Education, John was instrumental in creating Aveda’s Brands of Full Spectrum Hair Color and creating techniques for Aveda Collections at Video and Photo Shoots.

Shari Harbinger, “The Go To Curl Girl”: In her double-duty role as Director of Education for DevaConcepts and Color Director for Devachan Salon and Departure Lounge, Shari has both a loyal group of clients that rely on her for shiny, vibrant shades that are as modern as they are beautiful, and an enormous following in the salon industry for her eponymous training sessions.

Ouidad, the “Queen of Curl”: She is an internationally recognized stylist, salon owner mother, author and global educator. In 1984, as the pioneer of the curly hair industry, she opened the first salon in the country to cater exclusively to curly hair. Since then her trademarked cutting and styling techniques and specialized line of award winning products, have instilled confidence in curly and wavy haired people everywhere.

Anthony Dickey: He has spent the better part of his styling career—both on set and in the salon—trying to dispel the myth among women with kinky, curly and wavy hair that their texture is problematic or unruly. Touted as a “Style Svengali” by the New York Times, Dickey has mastered the mystery of textured hair to create iconic hair styles for designers, advertisers, photographers and celebrities alike.

Veronique Morrison: As Director of Education for MIZANI, a division of L’Oreal, USA, Veronique creates and manages the production of all technical curriculum, training programs, and creative trend presentations for a national salon audience.

Erica Grabczyk: American Crew’s International All-Star Erica Grabczyk certainly knows how to talk and cut men’s hair at the same time. She swiftly became the Director of Education at Groom Salon in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, specializing in male-specific design. Erica is top-rated in the City of Milwaukee for men’s hair (Milwaukee Magazine), having worked at Groom since 1999 as both a Lead and now Master Stylist. She trains nationally and internationally as an American Crew International All-Star Educator.

Ana Daniel, Artistic Director & Educator for Ouidad: This Dominican Republic native has spent several years working with Ouidad and loves ensuring that her clients not only have a style they love but also have the information they need to care for their curls at home. Ana’s work has appeared on the pages of many magazines and on the heads of numerous celebrities.

My New Love: CHI Enviro American Smoothing Treatment

by Megan Dorcey on Thursday, February 17th, 2011

Megan in all her natural curly glory

Throughout the past year, we have all had mixed emotions about the various keratin treatments available to us.  I, like any good researcher, went and had a keratin treatment last year.  Like a lot of people, I was happy with the results, but the process left me with irritated eyes, and a lot of questions.

In response to concerns over the safety of traditional aldehyde-containing straightening treatments,  CHI has introduced the revolutionary Enviro Smoothing Treatment that is completely formaldehyde-free and safe to your clients as well as yourself. The CHI Enviro American Smoothing Treatment (CurlStylist has dubbed it the CHI EAST) is composed of amino acids, pearl and silk.  No harmful chemicals means you have a clear conscious when that client asks for the treatment.

I didn’t understand how the treatment could actually make the hair straighter and smoother without chemicals, but CHI Enviro’s protein and amino acid complex allows temporary change in the structure of hair fibers, leaving hair easier to comb and hair that is silkier, smoother and shinier, so its protein and amino acid complex is what allows the system to straighten the hair.

Megan after her CHI Enviro American Smoothing Treatment

I had the treatment done last weekend and I will have to say that the process is fairly similar to other treatments I’ve had; many steps of washing, drying, flat-ironing.  A few things that were drastically different: no smell, well, actually, there was a smell, and it was vanilla, not the eye-watering chemicals of other systems.  When Rafael (my own personal CHI Educator) was flat-ironing the treatment onto my hair, there was literally only steam coming off of it, and it didn’t make my eyes water, or make my throat close up.  I actually didn’t notice until halfway through the process.

All in all, I was one happy camper.  Many of us felt like we were lied to by various companies in the past, and we were more than skeptical with this new treatment.  We can’t wait until this safe (physically and environmentally) treatment is offered in all of the salons instead of the harmful keratin processes.  You’ve made believers in us, CHI.

Check out the continuing education opportunities with CHI here.

Keratin Companies Respond to Controversy with New Formulas

by Michelle Breyer on Tuesday, February 1st, 2011

Long Beach, CA—With recent attention spotlighting the keratin smoothing treatments and rumors that environmental groups would be picketing outside some salons offering the service—several hair-care brands unveiled new formaldehyde-free formulas and safety devices at the Long Beach International Salon & Spa Expo.

“Safety is my No. 1 concern,” said Lilly Balasanyan, president of Cadiveu USA, which showcased its new Acai Therapy formaldehyde-free formula as well as Aerovex Systems, a leading work ventilation system for professional salons doing keratin treatments, at its booth. “It’s very important to me.”

In addition to promoting formulas that are “100% formaldehyde free,” many companies also took steps to distance themselves from their Brazilian roots. Farouk named its new formaldehyde-free formula “CHI Enviro American Smoothing Treatment.”

Other companies, including Zerran International, Farouk Systems and Enjoy Hair also promoted their formaldehyde-free formulas. On its marketing materials, the Zerran Reallisse formula is described as free of aldehydes, methylene glycol, formol, formalin “or any other substance that produces formaldehyde. At the Zerran booth, a stylist poured some of the Reallisse Catalyst formula into her ungloved hand to demonstrate how gentle it is.

A few booths over, Croc introduced its Greenion smoothing system, which is 100% natural and contains no formaldehyde, aldehydes, thioglycolates or other toxic chemicals. GK Hair, formerly Global Keratin, swill be launching a new patent-formula in April called Light Tame with a formaldehyde level of 0.18 percent. It will join the company’s three existing formulas.

Gloss Moderne changed its name as well as its formulas over the past year in response to the growing concerns about formaldehyde. Originally called Brazilian Gloss, the company no longer imports its products from Brazil, instead developing its formulas in the United States. Gloss Moderne pledges to send each batch of the upcoming salon treatment, due out in January, for laboratory testing to reassure stylists and salon patrons that the formula is free of methylene glycol and formaldehyde — or any type of aldehyde.

“We found that by going formaldehyde-free, we could feel good about [promising results] of eight weeks or longer,” Kuen Rameson, founder of Gloss Moderne, told WWD.

Aware that some stylists may be wary of a brand’s formaldehye-free, aldehyde-free claims, many companies had copies of laboratory reports at their booths to prove the absence of these chemicals while others have reports verifying that their formulas fall within the safe limits set by OSHA. Brazilian Blowout, which has been the target of a lot of the controversy, had a large sign at its booth that said “proven safe by OSHA.” Based on the huge crowds of stylists at its booth, and at the Keratin Complex Booth around the corner, keratin treatments were still a major draw for stylists drawn by the frizz-fighting results and large profit potential.

Balasanyan understands that her industry’s credibility has been tarnished by recent reports that several keratin brands claiming to be free of formaldehyde did in fact have high levels of the known carcinogen. In addition to developing its new formaldehyde-free formula, Cadiveu USA has placed a call to action on the industry to update testing standards that will provide both accurate information and safety for stylists and the consumer.

Keratin-based treatments exploded on the scene over the past three years, with dozens of companies their frizz-fighting formulas and customers flocking to salons for the treatments, which cost several hundred dollars.

But as popularity grew, there were growing concerns that some formulas contained unacceptable levels of formaldehyde. The Environmental Protection Agency, the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health and the International Agency for Research on Cancer all list formaldehyde as a suspected or known human carcinogen. Much of it started after hairstylists in Portland, Ore., reported nosebleeds, breathing problems and eye irritation connected with the use of keratin-based smoothers. That prompted an investigation by Oregon OSHA, which then issued a public alert about possible dangers related to the presence of formaldehyde in the products.

In its 30-page report issued in October, Oregon OSHA said there’s a lack of information available to stylists about the safety of keratin products, many of which it says are wrongly labeled formaldehyde-free. The workplace safety agency has initiated further testing and concluded “there are meaningful risks to salon workers when they are confronted with hair smoothing products.”

Doug Schoon, a California chemist who consults with the beauty industry on salon product safety, contends that both Oregon OSHA and Health Canada got it wrong. Schoon criticizes many reported beauty product health hazards as bad science or media exaggeration. He said the agencies wrongly tested the keratin products for formaldehyde in the bottle rather than in the air.

“I’m a scientist and chemist that has been researching and writing about salon product safety for over 20 years and have studied the use of Formalin in cosmetics and personal care products,” Schoon said in a recent posting on the ISSE web site. “I’ve been researching Formalin-containing hair smoothing products for almost two years and am considered a leading expert on this subject. In light of all of the misinformation, worry and confusion, I believe it is important to provide information that might help to clarify the situation.”

Balasanyan, and many others in the industry, do take issue with the testing criteria. She said Cadiveu conducted scientific tests at both room temperature and at 450°F to simulate the conditions of use in salons, e.g. heated with a flat iron. The results of these tests show formaldehyde levels in the product were below 0.0002% , or 2/10,000 percent—a level considered safe.

But Balasanyan says salon professionals must be educated about the safety of the products and how to create a safe work environment for both customers and salon professionals.

Mark Garrison, the owner of a salon on the Upper East Side of Manhattan that bears his name, set aside a floor for keratin treatments, equipping it with special ventilators and began providing industrial-strength respirators to his clients and stylists.

Sasha Polit, marketing manager believes the companies in her industry need to be open and honest with stylists and consumers.

“If you’re honest and transparent, people will still use the products,” she said. “But you have to give them that choice.”