The answer to curly hair woes probably won’t come from one magic product. Luckily there’s cocktailing, where you can play mixologist to achieve the exact results your client wants. Check out these texture experts’ custom hair brews.
EXPERT: Dianne Nola, Curly Hair Specialist, Nola Studio, San Francisco
“When working with extremely dry, gray or colored hair, I like to use Heaven In Hair as a leave-in, then cocktail Styling Cream and Mirror Curls to add to it,” Nola says. “This leaves the hair in an extremely hydrated state. Unlike most serums in the industry, Mirror Curls contains no silicones and truly does add shine to the fi nished locks. Then I add one of the gels (Light, Ultra, or Arc) to the mix or apply next. Not only is the actual weight of the cocktail crucial in creating length, but the various techniques to hold those coils down.”
EXPERT: Robert Santana, Matrix artist
CHALLENGE: Moisturizing dehydrated coils
INGREDIENTS: Matrix Oil Wonders Indian Amla Oil, Amazonian Murumuru and Egyptian Hibiscus Oil
“Select your appropriate oil based on the desired result for your client,” Santana says. “Oils can be used in many ways with di- erent benefi ts. Indian Amla Oil strengthens weakened hair inside and out, Amazonian Murumuru de-volumizes rebellious hair for infi nite smoothness and control, and Egyptian Hibiscus Oil shields color treated hair for restored vibrancy with shine. Utilize oil at every step for the ultimate care experience, shampoo, condition, treat, style and fi nish, blending as you go.”
EXPERT: Sara Smith, Stylist, Barbara Forgione Salon, Tampa, FL
Start with two pumps of Amika Leave In Cream from midshaft to ends says Smith. Then apply one palm-press of oil. Palm pressing is when you press the opening of your oil container into the palm of your hand, she explains. The small amount of oil in the palm of your hand is the perfect amount. Next, mix together two pumps of Straight Up Smooth and two pumps of Curl Cream. Work through the hair and scrunch.
EXPERT: Stacy Hill, Owner, DyeVerCity Hair Salon, Martinez, GA CHALLENGE: Long-lasting hold
“I start with Urbanbella non-lather cleanser,” Hills says. “Urbanbella gently cleans my hair from all residue build up while giving me a cool sensation on my scalp. My conditioner of choice is Mop Top daily conditioner. It doubles as a leave in. When rinsing, you only rinse 80 percent out of the hair. For styling, I use Mop Top light hold gel coupled with Obia moisture cream. The key is don’t over use the products, a quarter/half dollar size goes a long way. The seaweed extracts in Mop Top and moisturizing oils in Obia keep my curls intact for up to 3-4 days.”
Jason Leo Hurst of Dej Salon in Sherman Oaks, CA is a veteran stylist with 16 years experience in the hair industry. Being less than a thirty minute drive from Los Angeles, Jason has seen it all when it comes to hair and beauty. But before being well known on the west coast for his hair artistry, Jason actually kicked off his career in Soho, NYC at the Devachan Salon. The founders of DevaCurl helped Jason mold and perfect his craft, and before he knew it, he was in California practicing his passion. I recently chatted with him to pick his brain about the latest and greatest in the west coast curly community.
CurlStylist: Where do you find daily inspiration?
Jason Leo Hurst: I love helping curly girls that are desperately seeking solutions. I constantly hear things like “I’ve tried every product” and “I cannot find anyone who understands my hair.”
CS:What are your favorite curly hair cuts or styles to perform on clients?
JLH: I love big hair! My favorites are long, layered, and full. I also enjoy cutting angular bobs with an edge.
CS:Which hair products do you love to use?
JLH: I love DevaCurl’s NoPoo. It’s simplicity and performance transforms dry textured hair while preserving hair color like no other! Elita makes a hair mask that is also great. I use it solely as a leave-in styling aid in the dryer. It truly performs. It has just the right amount of emollients to provide shine and weight to control frizz! Having only one hair product for my clients to use is truly life changing for them!
CS:What are some hair trends you are seeing a lot of nowadays?
JLH: Balayage hair color and beach waves!
CS:Finally, what is one thing you wish every curly man or woman knew about their hair?
JLH: I want them to know that it CAN be easy!
If you are in the Sherman Oaks area, you may book an appointment with Jason at Dej Salon on the website, www.dejsalon.com. Or, contact the salon by phone at (818) 981-4440.
In today’s beauty market, the choices can be overwhelming. More and more clients are seeking products that provide multi-benefits and uses, no matter if they let their curls dry naturally or if they are heat styling. Then, as a stylist, if you consider the fact that all your clients have unique hair needs, the choice for what to retail (let alone take precious space at your station) can be daunting.
Enter UniqOne Hair Treatment, the first all-in-one leave in mask with 10 real effects. Use UniqOne on even the most unruly hair to:
1. Repair dry and damaged hair
2. Add shine and frizz control
3. Heat protect
4. Provide silkiness and smoothness
5. Hair color protection with UVA & UVB filters
6. Easier brushing and ironing
7. Incredible detangling
8. Create long lasting hairstyles
9. Prevent split ends
10. Add body
Surveys from real women* show that 8 out of 10 would purchase UniqOne after trial. From results, 100% reported that their hair felt smoother and silkier. 93% were impressed by the detangling properties of the product. And 83% reported easier brushing and ironing.
The magic of UniqOne Hair Treatment lies not just in its formula, but in the revolutionary spray nozzle. Although the product is a rich, creamy consistency (thick enough to stay put when the bottle is turned over!) the proprietary sprayer allows for an even distribution, leaving hair deeply conditioned without weighing it down.
The multipurpose formula of UniqOne Hair Treatment can be used on wet hair or dry hair. On wet hair the product will detangle, add smoothness and protect from damaged caused by heat styling. Use on dry hair to refresh style with added body and a silky finish. Either way, the product is simple to use:
On Wet Hair
Spray directly approximately 8in from hair.
Short hair > 6-8 sprays
Medium hair > 7-12 sprays
Long hair > 10-15 sprays
Detangle hair with a comb.
Heat style or let dry naturally as desired.
On Dry Hair
Apply on the palm of your hand.
Short hair > 2-3 sprays
Medium hair > 3-5 sprays
Long hair > 4-6 sprays
Apply an appropriate amount of the product to the palm of the hand and distribute over hair from half-length down to the ends.
Retouch with heat styling tools as desired.
UniqOne Hair Treatment is the ideal choice for even your most demanding clients. Product junkies will love how seamlessly it layers with other products in their styling routine for the perfect finish. Your wash-and-wear clients will welcome its ease of use and multi-benefit formula, so all they have to do is spray and go.
Once they fall in love with the UniqOne Hair Treatment, undoubtedly your clients will want to feel the effects of UniqOne before they even leave the shampoo bowl. UniqOne is prepared to change the way they shampoo their hair forever. The perfect complement to the UniqOne Hair Treatment, UniqOne Shampoo & Balm is the first balm with 10 benefits that cleanses and conditions without damaging the hair. UniqOne Shampoo & Balm is the perfect treatment for clients who want a product that:
Washes thoroughly and gently
Is an excellent conditioner
Protects hair color
Adds silkiness and smoothness
Strengthens and fortifies hair
Provides heat protection
Repairs damaged hair
UniqOne Shampoo & Balm provides a completely unique experience when compared to traditional shampoos. It’s paraben-free, sulfate-free formula has a creamy consistency like a conditioner, but is a low foam cleansing power like a shampoo. This product is excellent for any client that has coarse, thick, curly or chemically damaged hair that needs a product that will penetrate the hair follicle to leave hair clean, intensely conditioned and well cared for.
The results (and the reviews) speak for themselves. After a study**, 94% of women saw that the product not only added noticeable silkiness and smoothness to their hair, but also felt the product was an excellent conditioner. Out of the participants, 9 out of 10 would recommend the product.
UniqOne Hair Treatment and UniqOne Shampoo & Balm are the perfect combination for superior hair. These easy to use, multi-benefit products are a simple combination for even low-maintenance clients. Whether a client is looking to add the ideal complement to her styling routine, or looking for a cleanser for taming her unruly hair, she is bound to appreciate the brilliant results of UniqOne.
* Data was gathered after a product trial test with 80 women between the ages of 30 and 45.
** Data was gathered after a product trial test with 100 women between the ages of 30 and 45.
When professional smoothing treatments first hit the market a few years ago, after Nicole Richie raved about it on her blog, it took off like wild fire. Brands have come and gone since then and the survivors have focused on stylist certification. Brazilian Blowout puts significant emphasis on stylist education and certification to help create a standard for the industry.
Tip #1: Choose a brand that invests in stylist education.
While still a new category for the hair industry, professional smoothing treatments pave the way for stylists to enjoy increased revenue through additional services and new clientele while education and certification remain the frontline for stylists to correctly perform the treatment with care and precision. This ensures that the stylists administering this service are properly trained, accredited prior to use, and experience consistent results. More importantly, it’s imperative that the stylist is educated on the proper application of product and adjusting the temperature of hot tools in order to customize the treatment to the client’s needs while adhering to manufacturer instructions.
Tip#2: Certification gives you credibility and sets you apart.
Certification allows stylists to set themselves apart from others allowing the stylist to proudly display their certificate and exclusive branded collateral in their salons and at their stations, as well as advertising this life changing service on their personal websites, blogs, and social media pages like Facebook and Twitter. “As a certified Brazilian Blowout stylist, I have experienced a HUGE impact on my business because it’s allowed me to offer a service to clientele that I didn’t have before. And getting new clients means increased revenue,” says Felini, a stylist at Phillip K. Thomas salon in Dallas, TX. He goes on to explain how “being certified in this treatment sets me apart from other stylists who may not offer the service, making me unique and in high demand”.
Tip #3: Manufacturer sponsored certification should be your only means of obtaining education – don’t be fooled by imitators.
Brands who market these treatments offer sponsored events and online and certification on their websites for you to learn the detailed information necessary to perform this treatment. Most manufacturers will require you to pass a written test while attending an event, or passing an online questionnaire if taken via their website. Additionally, most recommend re-certification once a year to sharpen skills and learn new techniques.
Tip #4: Not all treatments are created equal.
When researching which certification option is best for you, be sure to educate yourself on the different treatments available and their unique features and benefits. “I chose the Brazilian Blowout treatment because it’s the only one that works. Plain and simple. And it can be washed out at the salon during a client’s appointment as where the other keratin smoothing treatments would require my client to leave the product in her hair for at least 72 hours before washing it out. My clients have active lifestyles and when they leave my chair, they can go back to living their busy lives,” states Felini. It’s important to know these differences so the treatment is performed as directed to avoid damaging your client’s hair and leaving her, and you, extremely frustrated. These types of details are covered in your certification classes and should be followed as directed. Don’t get creative and try to skip steps because you won’t end up with the results you and your client desire.
To join the rankings of the savvy stylists who have increased their business and transformed the lives of their clients, follow their lead by becoming certified by your chosen smoothing treatment manufacturer. Whether at an event or online, get certified and continue to educate yourself with new skills and techniques. And do your research when choosing which treatment best suits you and your clients needs, and ensures the impressive results you and your clients expect.
———————— About the Author:
The most popular professional smoothing treatment in the world, Brazilian Blowout, is committed to the excellence of stylists with innovative products and education that not only changes hair but changes lives. For more information, visit us online at brazilianblowout.com or like us on Facebook.
Hair extensions represent one of the hottest categories for salons right now, and curly clients are stronger prospects for this problem-solving service than you might think. Leading extension brands have recognized the opportunity and many create special extensions to match curl patterns and to help you help clients transition between texture changes, add volume or length, and more. Visit their web sites and ask about specific training or solutions for naturally curly and other texture types. (See the special Extension Trends section on page 110 in MODERN’s March Issue).
Here are five reasons to consider adding texture-enhancing extensions to your portfolio of curly expertise:
1. The bad cut. When NaturallyCurly.com polled consumers and asked what was the worst mistake a stylist has made on their hair, cutting it too short was number one. Hair extensions make the recovery process easier to bear.
2. The vertically challenged. Dry and damaged curls are prone to breakage so growth is a major challenge for texture hair, and for many women waiting for hair to grow only leads to frustration. Extensions let the consumer focus on all the reasons she loves her curls.
3. Pure drama. Extensions have the dramatic effect we want for the red carpet moments in our lives, like weddings or proms.
4. The volume. Most people assume that curly hair equals thick hair, but curl pattern is only one part of the equation. Density, width and length determine thickness and volume, so extensions can help give a boost to fine-haired curlies.
5. The versatility. Everybody loves textured hair because of its chameleon-like qualities. Extensions are just one more tool in a curly’s toolbox to change her look day-to-day.
More than five years ago, inventor Nick Johnson was watching all the excitement over the keratin boom. Stylists, including his wife, were excited by the potential to offer their clients an easy way to smooth their hair, and the technique also provided huge revenue potential.
But Johnson also saw the downside. Stylists and their clients often were irritated by the fumes created when the hot flat iron was applied to the keratin formula.
“My wife said ‘You have to invent something,’” Johnson said of his wife Marzia Johnson, who owns the Marzia Salon in San Francisco, Calif. “So I spent two weeks in my workshop inventing a device.”
The result is the Izunami Fume Iron, a device that extracts fumes such as formaldehyde gas, odors, and VOC’s by suctioning the vapors directly through the flat iron into an air purification system.
“I believe this product provides stylists and their clients with peace of mind,” Johnson says.
Right: Izunami fume iron, Left: ISSE attendee
Right: Izunami fume iron, Left: ISSE attendee
Stylists got their first look at the Izunami Fume Iron at the Professional Beauty Association’s International Salon & Spa Expo in Long Beach the last weekend in January.
Creativity and innovation were on display throughout the ISSE show, which kicks off the hair show season. Whether it was watching top talents like Nick Arrojo and Martin Parsons show off their cutting and styling skills or looking at some of the newest product developments, stylists had plenty to inspire them.
For those stylists specializing in texture, there were a number of new product introductions, including Yuko’s Anti-Frizz, a gentler version of its straightening product designed to tame frizz rather than eliminate curl. Other standouts include Amika’s new Straight Up Straightening Balm and Haute Mess Texture Gel; Erayba’s HydraKer Keratin & Argan Oil Therapy Line and Neuma Beauty’s NeuSmooth line.
ISSE Long Beach always has a diverse exhibitor base, and 2013 was no exception. Known as the launch pad for new beauty products and services, ISSE Long Beach 2013 featured amore than 400 beauty brands ranging such industry leaders as Rusk and Farouk Systems to hot brands like Macadamia Natural Oil and Moroccan Natural Oil.
Keratin treatments continued to be a major focus for many companies, although the number of companies has dwindled due to competition and calls for safer products.
If ISSE is a barometer of what 2013 holds for stylists and salons, there is reason for optimism. Many brands said sales were up noticeably from last year.
For all those long-time fans of products like Sculpting Foam and Foaming Pommade, John Paul Mitchell Systems has been a curl lifesaver for decades. For stylists, they have provided an invaluable tool to help their curly clients embrace their natural texture. But the company wasn’t willing to sit on its laurels and wanted to create a line of products that spoke to the curlies of the world – women who “describe their curls with sounds,” according to Robert Cromeans, the company’s flamboyant Global Artistic Director.
“While some of our Paul Mitchell products are popular with curlies, they’ve been asking for products formulated specifically for curly hair,” says Nikola Cline, Senior Director of Marketing for JPMS. “It was time for us to create a collection of products that would help people embrace their natural curl rather than fight it.”
More than 55 percent of the world has curly, wavy or coily hair, but not everyone is embracing their natural texture. The Paul MItchell Curls line is designed to provide curlies the tools they need to feel confident about their curls.
Paul Mitchell Curls was designed to be used the way curlies actually use products. Spring Loaded Detangling Shampoo™ was developed to gently clean, hydrate and detangle without any sulfates since 70 percent of curly consumers prefer sulfate-free shampoos and like to do their detangling in the shower. Because guys and girls with texture prefer using a leave-in conditioner to help tame and moisturize dry, curly locks, JPMS developed a do-it-all formula, Full Circle Leave-In Treatment™, which replenishes lost moisture, helps protect damage, and controls frizz without weighing hair down.
Twirl Around™ Crunch-Free Curl Definer features an innovative dual formula featuring a hydrating cream and smoothing gel in a beautiful swirl. With Twirl Around™, frizz will be controlled, and curls are defined and tamed without any frizz or crunchiness.
The secret weapon for creating sexy, tousled beach waves is Ultimate Wave™ Beachy Texture Cream-Gel. This humidity-resistant cream-gel adds loads of texture, and forms and separates waves for perfectly imperfect, frizz-free styles.
After extensive research, the company launched its campaign for Paul Mitchell Curls, titled “The Truth About Curls” inspired by the emotional relationship curly-haired consumers have with their hair – from the joys and the struggles, to the passion and the love they’ve all experienced with their hair.
The company made the decision to push the boundaries of its marketing for the launch of Paul Mitchell Curls by focusing on digital and social marketing to reach out to the growing number of curlies who consume much of their media online. “The Truth About Curls” launches with exclusive partnerships with influential online blogs and web sites, including NaturallyCurly.com.
“During our conversations with real, curly-headed people, we were struck by the highly emotional relationship they have with their hair,” Cline says. “We heard some really honest, cathartic, touching stories about life with curls, and it inspired us to create a campaign that was driven by real people sharing their stories.”
This is the first campaign that directly engages the consumers. “The consumer is the active, driving force behind the campaign,” Cline says.
Curlies cansubmit a confessionthrough the microsite. The microsite also features a “Curl-o-Meter” for users to obtain their “frizz forecast” in their zipcode, user polls, curl confession videos taped during the shooting of “The Truth About Curls” advertising campaign and Paul Mitchell Curls product information. Fans will also be able to ask questions on styling tips and tricks that Paul Mitchell artists will respond to on Paul Mitchell’s social media pages.
Instead of utilizing professional models for its “The Truth About Curls” advertising campaign, JPMS sought out real women and men to feature in its ads. A variety of women and men from all walks of life were shot for the campaign, including a dancer, Paul Mitchell-sponsored athletes and even students from Paul Mitchell Schools.
“This campaign touches the heart and soul of the curly-headed guest,” Cromeans says. “Other curly-haired people can see themselves in these stories!”
The new Paul Mitchell Curl line can be a boon for stylists looking for new tools and added revenue.
“My clients want to learn how to work with their hair,” said Stephanie Kocielski, JPMS creative artist. “My clients are loving the new Curl line. They will buy whatever they need to make it look good.”
And if a client looks good, “they are a walking billboard for you!” Cromeans says.
“Curly-haired people are naturally drawn to other curly-haired people, and when they see great curly hair that is colored beautifully, cut to perfection and styled well, they want to know who that hairdresser is. What a great way to build a business.”
One of the most special parts of The Gathering is that the leaders of Paul Mitchell are not only so inspiring and inspired, but also that they are readily excited to share their passion with others. CurlStylist had the opportunity to interview both of the owners of Paul Mitchell, Angus Mitchell and Jean Paul DeJoria, about the launch of their new line of curly products and the re-emergence of texture in the beauty industry. In addition to an exclusive insight into two of the industry’s most influential leaders, we got a glimpse at both of their business prowess and personalities.
Watch here for the interview with Angus Mitchell, son of the late Paul Mitchell and co-owner of the company who is an extremely accomplished stylist in his own right:
The focus of this year’s annual Paul Mitchell Gathering has been the launch of the new product line called Curls, formulated specifically for, you guessed it, curls! One of the sessions offered at The Gathering is called The Curl Experience: The Truth About Curls. The two-hour session is a crash-course in curl styling, care and coiffure for stylists. Cromeans placed a massive emphasis on the democratization of hair care, encouraging stylists not to see hair in black in white, but in wavy, curly and coily textures. “You need to be able to work with anything that crawls through your salon door,” encouraged Cromeans. “Can you imagine if a doctor turned away a patient just because of the color of their skin?”
CurlStylist’s own Michelle Breyer was a featured speaker during this session, engaging with Cromeans in a curl-focused dialogue and answering audience questions about trends in the textured hair market.
Top tips from the session include:
Do not highlight curls like you would a straight-haired client. Use “hand-picked highlights” to create a customized color pattern that will accentuate a unique curl pattern.
Stylists who service curly clients will take home an average of $52/head when the industry average is four.
Encourage your fellow stylists to wear their natural texture. Clients will be more willing to try wearing their curls if they have an example to follow.
Here are some of the top pictures from the session.
Stephanie Kocielski is known around the world for her work as a platform artist and her work on honing the Paul Mitchell education program. Here at the annual JPMS gathering, she uses her enthusiasm for curls and expertise to share about the four new CURL products just launched from Paul Mitchell.