Styling Curly Hair: 5 Common Mistakes

by CurlStylist on Thursday, September 1st, 2011

Ouidad, Queen of Curls.

The life of a stylist is fraught with trials, triumphs and many tribulations, especially if you choose to specialize in textured tresses. Yes, some mistakes are inevitable no matter how savvy you are as a stylist — but you may be surprised how many common faux pas are avoidable. And, you don’t need years of experience to figure it out, if you’re willing to learn from the wisdom of those who spent decades creating a brave (and curly) new world.

Here, we turn to leading curl experts, and asked: If they knew then what they know now, what nostalgic advice would they share about styling curly hair? Read on for the top 5 lessons of curl-centric veterans — lessons they learned the hard way, so you don’t have to.

1: Set Realistic Expectations

When Ouidad, the “Queen of Curls,” first started styling curly hair, she acknowledges that her idealism took over.

“I wanted to change the world with the haircut that I gave them. I wanted to fix it all and change it all,” Ouidad says. “But it’s impossible to take a head of hair and change it all completely at once. What I learned is to really look at the hair, study all the curl patterns, and learn exactly how much curls shrink, each section, and how they fit within each other when you cut. It’s not like cutting straight hair, you can’t just change it all at once.”

So, instead of having an image of what you think you’re going to do with the client, like change their life, Ouidad encourages up-and-coming stylists to examine the different hair textures, really study them and understand them first.

2: Listening to Your Client

“Let the client talk, don’t talk over them. Just observe them,” says Denis DaSilva, co-owner of New York’s Devachan Salon. “You win over people when you agree with them. If you try to disagree, you’ll never win. Agree with them, and then change them a little to the right or left according to what needs to be done, but never say no.”

No is not a word your clients are going to accept easily. So, experts say, be certain you understand what they want before you react.

“You’re going to have to really listen,” adds Christo. “You’re going to have to analyze their hair, so you can give them options and ideas.”

3: Don’t Treat Curly Clients Like Straight-Haired Clients

Curl experts say you cannot treat curly clients the same way you treat clients with straight hair.

“Most of the time, people with straight hair will let you do whatever you want,” Christo says. “But with curly clients, you have to take into consideration that she has already tried many things and ended up in your chair because you claim you specialize in curly hair. So you have to live up to those expectations.”

And that can mean a much longer consultation for new clients. For example, Christo blocks out an hour for new clients. “We want to make sure that person is going to stay with us because we know we have all the solutions for them,” he says.

He suggests stylists ask themselves if they’re really comfortable styling curly hair. “Anyone can say they do curly hair, but can they really? Or, are they making disasters out there for us to fix?” Christo asks.

4: Don’t Let Curl-Phobia Get the Best of You

Although you may feel fear when first approaching curly clients, don’t give in to it.

“The first 10 years as a stylist, you’re so afraid of clients. When they want what they want, they make you concerned about that. The second ten years, you learn how to present what is better for them, but the end result is they will push you, even though you gave them whatever they wanted,” DaSilva says. “The third ten years, now you’re smarter. You listen, but learn how strategically to put them in a spot where you can always give them more.”

Especially when it comes to color, DaSilva warns that if you give the client too much control, it will be hard to get it back.

“I don’t have confrontations with any clients, but if they say I want a lot of blonde highlights, I’ll put the blonde strategically in places where they will see more blonde, but not necessarily doing more blonde,” he explains. “If they say I want a little red, I may know that warm brown, for them, is red.”

DaSilva says it’s all about understanding how to interpret and balance a client’s wants and needs.

5: Communicate

Curl experts say your words matter a lot when styling curly hair clients.

“If you say, ‘I know exactly what I need to do,’ it just blows up in your face. Even if you do know, it just puts [the curly client] on the defense,” Ouidad says. “It’s essential to talk about how you’re going to work with the hair, what kind of movement you want to put in the hair. You want to be able to verbalize and explain how it’s going to fit and how it’s going to look like when the hair is dry.”

Ouidad says you can ease a curly’s fear by saying things like, “I know layers would be too rough for your hair, or it would shrink too much.” You really want to make sure curly clients know that you’re not going to give them ledges, a pyramid or some other shape they dread — and that you understand their texture.

“Make your client as comfortable and be trusting as possible by saying things that resonate with them,” Ouidad says.

Read all of this bi-annual issue of Texture!

How to Cut Curly Hair

by Kateri Johnson on Thursday, August 18th, 2011

Before You Begin

When cutting curly hair, my first suggestion is to gauge the actual curl pattern in its natural state. During the initial contact, whether it be in person or over the phone, it is important that you request the client come in with dry hair, in the style that they would like to, or usually, wear their hair.

Many times, curlies come in with wet, pulled back hair. This creates a few problems. Curly hair should be cut dry in most cases. As we all know, having the hair wet changes the elasticity of the hair and is the primary culprit for shrinkage after the cut, the one thing all curlies are afraid of.

If the hair is pulled back into a pony, the hair on the surface is not only dry but it is molded into the straight position it was drawn back into. In addition, the center of the hair is damp, creating two different areas of elasticity.

With the hair in the preferred position for the client, you are able to see the heavy areas, areas of multiple texture, mistakes from previous services and the general overall shape of the previous cut or outgrowth.

During the initial meeting with your client, determine the products being used and past chemical services performed, professional or self-administered. Because you will be doing a dry cut, knowledge of any potential product build up, previous coloring or past damage should be taken into account when determining actual hair texture.

All of these factors will alter texture, creating a false image of curl pattern, hydration and elasticity. A clarifier is often needed after a cut to ensure that the curl product you use to highlight the finished cut is allowed to properly perform.

Now is the time to explain to your client what the proper products needed to maintain curl formation are, and how to hydrate the hair. With so many wonderful product lines on the market today, assess who your current curl clientele is and try out different companies to find the right fit.

Newsflash: Drastic Cut Not Needed

Curly hair does not always need a full cut! My favorite saying is, “We get bigger before we get longer,” meaning our hair gains volume before we gain length. Initially, the first cut may include shortening or dusting the length and trimming or correcting the layers.

Once you have established your first cut, another full haircut may not be necessary. When a client wants to grow their hair out, alternating between trimming length and layers should be done.

The area of the hair that receives the most damage is the outside surface and layers of the hair. The area of length, which is the nape area from below the occipital to the base hairline, does not receive as much of a beating. What is always perceived as damaged or dry is the outer surface.

During the cut, the hair will become very big and very frizzy, which is great! While cutting, the hair is forming its silhouette. This makes it easy to see any heavy areas, ledges or blending points. You can see smooth lines forming, perfect curves and roundness. All of this is invisible during a cut when the hair is wet. Dry, the hair’s elasticity is balanced and there is no room for error due to shrinkage.

Take a Hair Razor to Those Curls

by Antonio Gonzales on Monday, August 8th, 2011

I was born in Trinidad in the height of a hurricane. I spent my childhood surrounded by the sights and sounds and smells of Carnival and the other Indian, African and Spanish festivals of the Islands. Loving the amazing costumes, I got my start dressing my sisters and doing their hair and makeup. An opportunity came up to work with Trinidad’s leading costume designers, makeup artists and hair stylists. After I left the Island, my career evolved with work in Munich, Los Angeles and now New York City. Here in New York, I am a stylist at the Orlo Salon in the Meat Packing district. Vogue magazine recently named me as one of the rising hairstylist stars in N.Y., I was awarded the best haircut of 2008 by shecky’s.com, Gotham Magazine called me a Shear Genius and Allure Magazine featured me as one of the best cuts 2009.

See Antonio’s blog here.

I am excited to address this topic because I know that there seems to be a rule forbidding us to use a hair razor on curls, but as hairstylists, the one thing we know is true, is that rules are broken all the time!

First, let me remind you of two things:

1. Creative people should never limit themselves by convention.
2. Creative people should never be lemmings.

Countless articles and videos featuring hairstylists swearing the razor should never be used on curly hair, wet (or dry) are boring and just plain wrong.

I have seen so many hairstylists in salons do incredible work on curly hair delivering happy clients and flawless results. So let’s blow away (pun intended) any negative myths about the hair razor now.

Don’t get me wrong, I have met many clients who have had very bad experiences with the razor, and I really felt their pain. But I have also met many with destroyed hair from highlights. Perhaps it is the hairstylist and not the tool or product that creates a bad look.

Why Use a Hair Razor?

Individuality is the most important asset any woman possesses, and curly hair can be her crowning glory. It’s an amazing canvas to work with and each head should be treated with individuality in mind. You have the amazing ability to make her feel like the best version of herself. So, what a pity it is to only consider using one tool to cut her curly hair.

Hair Razors From the Past

Scissors haven’t always been the only game in town! At the beginning of my career, I was taught to use the feather razor. You know, the one with the guard?

I remember thinking I had discovered the moon with this tool, but was petrified by it. Years later, I can say the only time I use this razor is to rid the neck of fine hairs.

Since then, they have created similar razors to the feather, some with a built in comb and some made from heavier materials. Today, you couldn’t pay me enough money to use the feather razor or any heavy tool to cut hair.

What Razor Should You Use?

It makes all the difference in the world to use the right razor, not only for the right hair type but the right one for you as an artist.

The wooden handle straight blade is what I use on a daily basis. This razor is also what is used to shave the face – it’s that sharp! I get mine from Classicshaving.com. They are great supporters of hairstylists with great service.

It does not have a guard, which allows for easy movement on the hair shaft with ultimate creativity.

Feather razors have a guard in place to prevent cutting yourself, but it also limits your creativity and it’s almost impossible to not have the scraping effect. It also limits the way you cut hair because you don’t have use of the full razor blade. For me, it’s like having scissors, but only being able to use one blade.

What Can a Razor Do That Others Can’t?

With scissors we can slide cut, point cut and all the other techniques. If we are in a hurry, we can take thinning shears, but neither of these tools can do what a hair razor can.

On curly hair, the straight razor is the most delicate haircutting tool you will ever use. It’s precise, gentle touch on the hair allows you to create layers, remove bulk and build graduation without blunt edges like the scissors. But, like anything else in life, everything in moderation!

The only razor I use on my clients is the straight razor by Creative Razors. A practice of mine is to never use the razor on the same client cut after cut. If it’s a client that comes three times a year, then I say go for it. Otherwise, I use scissors in between to touch up the haircut.

I feel the hair does not grow fast enough to warranty razor cut after razor cut. It’s important to leave the hair with some density for the client to manage. For us, it’s easy to blow-dry any cut, but for the client it can be difficult to manage the wispy ends.

When Not to Use a Razor

Like any other tool, this has to be used in the hands of someone who knows how to use them. It’s important to let common sense guide you in knowing when the razor is too aggressive.

Ego is another thing to be aware of when using the razor. Always keep in mind that it’s not your hair and your client is by no means a hairstylist.

I’ve seen hairstylists talk clients into a razor cut even when the client pleads with them not to. If the client is panicking, it’s a sure enough sign you should put the razor down and pick up the scissors.

Know When to Put it Down

Extremely fine hair should not be cut with the razor, and if you have a client that wants a more classic hair style and says, “I like my hair heavy without too many layers,” then that’s your cue to put down the darn razor!

If you don’t know how to use the razor, then find out where you can go and get the needed education. Once this talent is acquired, you will become a versatile, effective stylist.

Helping Clients Make The Big Chop

by Ivan Zoot/The Clipper Guy on Thursday, August 4th, 2011

You can see the fear in her eyes. You can hear the backpedaling in her conversation. You know in your head and your heart that she’s ready for the big chop, but how do you get her there? How do you get her saying, “Cut it, before I change my mind!”

1. Share stories of other big chops

Share stories and examples of other clients who have had the same reservations and have come to be thrilled about the cut and the decision to go for it. Use, “It was hard to do, but now I can see it was the best thing I could have done” type of examples.

It will help, too, if you can have a photo book already made of the big chop transformations.

2. Reflect back to successful decisions in the past

“Remember when we tried bangs?” Use “we” statements to show that you are in this with her rather than just an outsider to the decision.

3. Engage a third party

Solicit positive reinforcement about the decision from other cutters or clients in the shop. Peer pressure can be powerful when used supportively.

4. Eliminate negative influence

For example: a mother, daughter or friend who has come along and is pressuring against a big chop. Put this divisive voice in the waiting area to remove their influence.

5. Offer incentives

Sometimes a free cut check in a month, a half price bottle of conditioner or an included manicure is all the push a fence-sitter needs to say yes!

Sweep fast so as to prevent “cutters remorse” that can occur when she sees more hair on the floor than on her head.

Go for the big chop and have fun doing it.

And as always, remember to please share your comments and experiences with big change haircuts.

Schedulicity Transforms Online Scheduling for Salons

by Megan Dorcey on Tuesday, May 31st, 2011

Remember the days of complicated software and useless customer service when it came to online scheduling? For some of us in the beauty industry, that might not be so long ago. We had heard of Schedulicity last year through the grapevine of a few stylists who use the service to fill their chairs, and were instantly curious about this company who boasts no-fuss solutions to building your business.

We had the pleasure of hopping in a limo with part of the Schedulicity team at ABS Chicago this year (it’s not as strange as it sounds), and learning more about the growing company and their recipe for success. The main goal of the 2 year-old company is to help you make money.

We were instantly curious about how this service works in a real salon for real stylists, and reached out to curl expert Jennifer Cortez, owner of Hive Salon in Minneapolis. See what Jen has to say about the service below and sign up for a no-strings-attached free trial with the company. Our gift to you: we will award a free year to one lucky curl stylist each month!

CS: What made you decide to use Schedulicity for your online scheduling?

JC: In my experience as a chair renter a receptionist can often be more of a hindrance than a person who runs a salon smoothly; when you have numerous rental stylists who all charge separate rates, offer different services, have different schedules, booking times, etcetera, it can be very hard for a receptionist to keep all of that information straight and do their job to their best ability. Schedulicity allows our salon and it’s stylists to clearly define who does what, and when, and for how much.

Other key points that helped us decide to go receptionist free with Schedulicity was the ease of use and cost. We’re living “on the internet” these days and everyone from ages four to ninety-four seems to have a smart phone attached to his or her left hand and is used to an insane amount of information at their fingertips.

With Schedulicity, our clients no longer feel like they have to “bother” a receptionist with multiple appointment time requests, play phone-tag while their at the office, or wake up in a cold sweat because they forgot to pre-book a major appointment and we’re closed. All they have to do is go online and bam! Crisis averted. The cost of Schedulicty is so affordable; instead of paying several hundred dollars a week in reception wages, we pay a flat fee for the use of the system.

When we’re with clients, we just let the phone go to voicemail. Ninety-nine percent of the time, the caller doesn’t leave a message and will book their appointment online. It saves us the stress of having to juggle clients and answering the phone, and the clients appreciate our undivided attention when they’re in our chairs.

When a stylist is out sick, they have the access to their client’s info and are able to reschedule them without having to come into work. The pros of using Schedulicity are huge! It’s really a refreshing change to the traditional salon atmosphere.

NC: Has the system increased bookings?

JC: Absolutely. People love that they can access us 24/7, and clients that we would normally see infrequently due to issues with making appointments are making multiple appointments at once!

NC: What is your user experience with Schedulicity? Tell me a little about the customer service, if there have been any glitches and how they were solved, etc.

JC: We’ve had only one glitch, and it was resolved via email within 24 hours–on a Saturday! There used to be an option on our page where instead of picking a stylist or price preference, you could allow the software to direct you to the first available stylist, but all new clients were being directed to only one of our stylists. We messaged Schedulicty, and they resolved the issue by removing the “I have no preference, please choose a provider for me” option. They have been super helpful with all of our small questions, and have always responded within 24 hours regardless of when we message them.

The Deva Cut: Look Before You Layer Curly Hair

by Ivan Zoot/The Clipper Guy on Tuesday, April 5th, 2011

Ivan Zoot is the director of education and customer engagement for the Andis Company and the founder of Zoot! Hair professional hair care products. Ivan identifies, recruits, trains and manages Andis’s team of professional beauty industry educators. Ivan continues to be a featured presenter at industry shows and events, sharing his unique blend of information, education and enthusiasm for clipper cutting and the entire professional beauty industry. Ivan’s background includes experiences ranging from salon ownership to achieving 3 Guinness World Haircutting records. Here, he shares his cutting and business-building expertise.

A reflection on my time in the DevaCurl cutting program a few weeks back . . .

Look before you layer. How do you decide where to begin the layering of a mid- to long-length curly cut? Layer too soon (taking sections too far down the head) and you cut into the perimeter weight of the cut. You lose the perimeter shape. Layer too late (just taking hair from the top of the head) and you will not remove enough of the weight from the shape to have the layers have any real impact on the shape. Rather than creating a haircut shape, you will just create poof.

The powerful trick I learned was to take horizontal sections beginning at the lower nape. Keep sectioning—that is to say, take a horizontal parting and drop down the hair. Look at the hair and at the baseline of the hanging length of the hair. Do not cut any layering until you have dropped all the necessary sections to have the base line fill in completely. Once the baseline fills in solidly this is the point vertically, up the headform, where you can begin to layer if your intended result calls for a layered exterior shape. Layer any sooner and you will cut into the base.

The powerful portion of this idea is that in many cases, most cases in fact, you will section higher up the head than you might have first guessed would have been needed to avoid cutting into the base. This small step of look-before-you-layer can make a huge, positive impact on the curly shapes you cut.

One big piece of curly cutting wisdom that was shared in relation to the look-before-you-layer suggestion was to do this looking carefully at the dry hair before the client has been shampooed. The Deva system advocates a dry cut. Some cutters choose to cut curly hair wet, some choose to cut dry. That is a conversation for another day. This look first can be implemented no matter if you choose to cut wet or dry. Just look first before you leap into the cut.

Curl Up with a Guy

by Ivan Zoot/The Clipper Guy on Monday, March 28th, 2011

Ivan Zoot is the director of education and customer engagement for the Andis Company and the founder of Zoot! Hair professional hair care products. Ivan identifies, recruits, trains and manages Andis’s team of professional beauty industry educators. Ivan continues to be a featured presenter at industry shows and events, sharing his unique blend of information, education and enthusiasm for clipper cutting and the entire professional beauty industry. Ivan’s background includes experiences ranging from salon ownership to achieving 3 Guinness World Haircutting records. Here, he shares his cutting and business-building expertise.

Curly hair is not just for curly girls. There is a lot of attention right now on the salon industry focused on curly and textured hair for guys. Here are a few things to keep in mind when supporting curly-haired guys.

Go short. A lot of guys just do not want to deal with all that texture and volume. Be comfortable taking these guys quite short.

Grow long. A lot of these guys have been quite short for quite a while. When they come around looking for an update, growing out all that great curl can be a fun project and direction. Embrace the opportunity and support their decision.

Products are the key. Managing curl for guys must be kept simple. Gels, pomades and styling crèmes should be used, explained and recommended. Remember the products chosen and the quantities used will need to change as their hair gets longer. Most guys will not equate, “my hair is longer so I need a bigger glop of styling stuff.”

Use pictures. Trade journals and pop culture magazines are great sources of images to help steer client decisions and support consultations. Try to cut up a few to create a collage of current curly guy looks to help you communicate.

Remember rebooking. Growing out requires haircuts. Develop the habit of rebooking so as to prevent these curly guys from staying away too long or straying. Their hair will appreciate it.

Guys are big business and more than half the guy clients out there have some form of curl or texture. Be sure to get your share of their patronage and profits.

Vidal Sassoon The Movie | How One Man Changed The World

by Alicia Ward on Tuesday, March 15th, 2011

America’s Beauty Show hosted the Chicago Premiere of the inspiring documentary, Vidal Sassoon The Movie at Cadillac Palace Theater Saturday night. The movie documents the life of the legendary hair guru rose from humble beginnings to start a hair revolution and create one of the most recognizable brands in the world.

The red carpet was rolled out and the theater was packed. The premiere was packed with top stylists and industry leaders to name a few: Mario Tricocci, Nick Arrojo, Robert Cromeans, Stephanie Kocielski, Angus Mitchell and Takashi Kitamura.

The movie displayed the story of his life from his impoverished childhood in an jewish orphanage to the start of his business in London through today. The story captivating and touched on many famous Sassoon moments like the first salon on New Bond street, his television appearances in the 70’s, divorce of his first wife, model Nancy Kwan, and partnership with designer Mary Quant. The film was made over the course of three years, the movie includes interviews with key Vidal insiders including Tony Beckerman.

Vidal Sassoon (center) at the Premier of “Vidal Sassoon The Movie,” Frank Gironda, president of Cosmetologists of Chicago (far left).

The movie displayed and told the story behind his innovation and his revolutionary haircuts, such as the five-point and the geometric bob. You may recall that some of the most famous models and celebrities sported his cuts: Grace Coddington, Twiggy, Rita Hayworth, and Jean Shrimpton.

The film highlighted the first appearance of his cut in a film—Mia Farrow’s famous short haircut first debuted in the 1968 film Rosemary’s Baby, directed by Roman Polanski.

The film ended on an inspirational note with the 83-year-old:

“If you can get to the root of who you are, and you can make something happen from it—my sense is that you’re gonna surprise yourself.”

After the film, Michael Gordon, legendary hairdresser, founder of Bumble and bumble and author of Hair Heroes and producer of the movie, had a question and answer session and assisted the Cosmetologists of Chicago in presenting the Steuben Crystal Hair Icon Award.

This film will truly move you! You will laugh, cry and feel so proud to have seen this man’s amazing journey!

This movie is a must-see for every hairdresser, new, old or those considering a career as a stylist. You will be inspired and moved by this amazing story! You definitely don’t want to miss this inspiring look at the man who “changed the world with a pair of scissors.”

ABS Texture! Panel with Top Curl Experts was a Huge Success

by Alicia Ward on Tuesday, March 15th, 2011

America’s Beauty Show was underway and thousands of stylist and salon owners gather to expand their knowledge, see top stylist and enjoy the entire “show” experience. Sunday March 13th was a huge day at ABS as it was the second annual “Texture” programming.

Texture! returned to ABS this year! This one-of-a kind free event showcased leading texture experts and educators in an intimate, interactive forum which included live hair demos. Texture! was hosted by NaturallyCurly.com founder Michelle Breyer and Modern Salon’s Editor-in-Chief Laurel Nelson, highlights of the event included:

Texture Trends: Fashion, Entertainment and Pop Culture Influences
Texture Cut, Color and Style: How-To Demos and Advice
Texture Opportunities: Make More Money Serving Curly Clients
Texture for Men: What’s New for Curly Guys?
Texture Q&A: Our experts, your questions!

Attendees were able to meet and greet the leading texture educators and brand leaders. The panel included the following:

John Benedetto, Director of Education for GK Hair: John has over 25 years of experience in the salon industry. In his prior role as Aveda’s Director of Global Hair Color Education, John was instrumental in creating Aveda’s Brands of Full Spectrum Hair Color and creating techniques for Aveda Collections at Video and Photo Shoots.

Shari Harbinger, “The Go To Curl Girl”: In her double-duty role as Director of Education for DevaConcepts and Color Director for Devachan Salon and Departure Lounge, Shari has both a loyal group of clients that rely on her for shiny, vibrant shades that are as modern as they are beautiful, and an enormous following in the salon industry for her eponymous training sessions.

Ouidad, the “Queen of Curl”: She is an internationally recognized stylist, salon owner mother, author and global educator. In 1984, as the pioneer of the curly hair industry, she opened the first salon in the country to cater exclusively to curly hair. Since then her trademarked cutting and styling techniques and specialized line of award winning products, have instilled confidence in curly and wavy haired people everywhere.

Anthony Dickey: He has spent the better part of his styling career—both on set and in the salon—trying to dispel the myth among women with kinky, curly and wavy hair that their texture is problematic or unruly. Touted as a “Style Svengali” by the New York Times, Dickey has mastered the mystery of textured hair to create iconic hair styles for designers, advertisers, photographers and celebrities alike.

Veronique Morrison: As Director of Education for MIZANI, a division of L’Oreal, USA, Veronique creates and manages the production of all technical curriculum, training programs, and creative trend presentations for a national salon audience.

Erica Grabczyk: American Crew’s International All-Star Erica Grabczyk certainly knows how to talk and cut men’s hair at the same time. She swiftly became the Director of Education at Groom Salon in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, specializing in male-specific design. Erica is top-rated in the City of Milwaukee for men’s hair (Milwaukee Magazine), having worked at Groom since 1999 as both a Lead and now Master Stylist. She trains nationally and internationally as an American Crew International All-Star Educator.

Ana Daniel, Artistic Director & Educator for Ouidad: This Dominican Republic native has spent several years working with Ouidad and loves ensuring that her clients not only have a style they love but also have the information they need to care for their curls at home. Ana’s work has appeared on the pages of many magazines and on the heads of numerous celebrities.