Archive for the ‘Curly Care Basics’ Category

Texture: The Season of Texture!

by Modern Salon on Wednesday, September 1st, 2010

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Learn more about Texture!, a collaboration between CurlStylist, NaturallyCurly and Modern Salon

By all appearances, fall 2010 will go down in fashion history as “the season of texture.” Dozens of notable fashion designers have eschewed straight strands, embracing instead all manner of curls, coils, crimps, waves and teased clouds of hair on their catwalks.

Miley Cyrus

Miley Cyrus






On the West Coast, style setters are also advancing the texture trend. Nearly every red carpet is adorned with sexy, romantic textures, made popular by stars like Taylor Swift, Miley Cyrus, Kate Hudson, Charlize Theron and Beyonce.

“Clients today are requesting anything but flat hair,” says Lina Shamoun, a 2010 North American Hairstyling Awards Texture Finalist from Kitchener, Ontario.

And regardless of whether clients are starting out with natural curl, wave or pin-straight strands, everyone has texture options this season!

Natural Curl: Embrace and Refine

“Curly hair is coming into its own,” says Titi Branch, co-owner of Miss Jessie’s Products and Salon in New York. “Twenty years ago, we wouldn’t even be talking about curly hair because people straightened their curls.

Michelle Obama

Michelle Obama

“Now, women want to embrace their natural, healthy curl. Michelle Obama even wore curls to a state dinner recently— for her to do so really validates the beauty of the look.”

But curly can also be high maintenance, admits Branch, which is why the current trend is a smoother, looser curl pattern.

“This allows a woman to keep her curl,” she explains, “but refine it.” At Miss Jessie’s, this elongated curl is achieved with the salon’s proprietary “Silkener” service. The technique involves a sodium hydroxide relaxer and a method of manipulation that stretches, yet doesn’t straighten, the hair.

“The result,” says Branch, “is hair that behaves like natural hair when it’s wet—before it dries and shrinks. It’s wash and go—it cuts styling time in half.” To support natural curls, Branch recommends Miss Jessie’s Curly Pudding treatment—a perennial favorite that combines macadamia and almond oil, aloe and shea butter for shine, plumping and moisture.

Curl definition is also imperative for Shawna Parvin’s curly clients, and the most modern approach, says the Aquage educator, NAHA 2009 Texture Winner and 2010 Hairstylist of the Year nominee, is to mix it up—random curl sizes, directions and even amounts of definition. “I’m telling my clients to start with a gel on damp hair,” she says, and comb it through scalp to ends. “Then wind sections of varying sizes, in every direction, so they look like little snakes. Don’t touch the hair until it’s completely dry, then move it around and even pull a few random pieces apart so there’s some fuzz mixed in with the curl. That’s what keeps curl from looking like the ’80s.”

Options are important for women with any texture, and naturally curly clients will always want blowouts for occasions when their hair must look polished, says Dickey, owner of New York’s Hair Rules Salon and hair products company. What makes blowouts look fresh this season, he says, is a voluminous, soft, Mad Men-inspired look, with lots of flattering movement around the face.

“Bone straight doesn’t work for most women,” he comments. “Waves and curls look softer on anyone—it’s ‘instant youth.’”

Making Waves—Keep it Raw

When it comes to creating curls and waves, the perfectly formed curls are evolving into a rougher, more raw-edged texture, says Chad Seale of Salt Lake City, another 2010 NAHA Texture finalist.

“Waves will be more vertical, looser, less constructed than we’ve seen in past seasons,” agrees Darby Shields, Associate Artistic Director of ISO International.

Taylor Swift

Taylor Swift

When it comes to these vertical waves, there’s also a new silhouette worth noting, adds Seale, namely, a flatter crown with more volume through the midlengths and ends. Seale loves this texture and shape on shorter-length bobs—actress Charlize Theron has been seen sporting the look. To permanently create this casual texture on tightly curly hair, Shields steers clients to the ISO Maintamer.

“This formula gives stylists plenty of control,” she explains. “Leave it on for five minutes, and it eliminates frizz but maintains the curl pattern. Leave it on for 30 minutes and it straightens more completely.”

To produce loose, ropey, “Gisele” texture with a thermal iron, Shields first mists strands with a combination of ISO Color Preserve Thermal Shield Spray and Daily Shape Working Spray, then wraps sections of hair vertically around the outside of a curling iron, simultaneously twisting each section onto itself like a rope. Once the hair cools completely, she gently releases the twists, revealing “a spiral, vertical wave with lots of internal torque.”

The flat iron is another excellent tool for creating this type of natural-looking body and texture. Many of today’s irons feature beveled plates, which give them the versatility to straighten and shape hair. One of Lina Shamoun’s favorite strategies is to divide hair into thin, one-inch sections, place the flatiron at the root, wind the section once around the iron and draw the tool through to the ends.

“When you release it, the hair will fall into a soft, flowing wave,” she explains.

The beach trend—textured, separated, sea-tossed strands—has generated a number of beach spray products that are great for supporting these looks or for use as stand-alone body boosters.

Color for Curl

With celebrities like Sarah Jessica Parker and Jennifer Aniston leading the way, the hottest hair color trend of the moment is the graduated “I spent last month on the beach and now it’s growing out” effect. Characterized by deeper roots and lighter midshafts and ends, it’s a deliberate technique to approximate “vacation regrowth.” The look is perfect for the twists and turns of textured hair, as long as the technique is done correctly.

Seale believes baliage is the best strategy—this freehand hair-painting method allows the colorist to place the tint exactly where the sun would kiss each strand, namely, on the rounds and fullest parts of each curl and in an unstructured fashion.

“So if your client wears her hair curly,” Seale advises, “don’t blow her hair straight and do a color weave. You’ll get six different colors on one curl and that doesn’t work.”

Additionally, says Seale, opt for high-lift permanent colors when baliaging curls, rather than bleach. “Bleach tends to swell the hair and cause it to become dryer,” he believes.

This hair type is already susceptible to dryness, he adds, so it’s better to use hair color that tends to impart less damage. Shields agrees that baliage is the best way to achieve the dark-to-light look, and advises stylists to work with fairly large sections. “Apply your color to each section randomly,” she suggests. “And for your application pattern, let the trajectory of the waves guide you—dropping off of the crown. Try some ‘peek-a-boo’ foils under the surface, too.

“All of this will create a purposeful, grown-out look, which clients today love since it’s chic and it allows them to stretch their retouching dollars!”

NAHA Awards Showcase Creativity, Innovation

by Michelle Breyer on Thursday, July 1st, 2010

The winners for this year were announced. Check them out here.

When Mahisha Dellinger of CURLS signed on as a sponsor this year for the 2010 North American Hairstyling Awards, it was a no-brainer.

Silas Tsang

Silas Tsang

“NAHA is truly the pulse of American stylist’s artistry at its best,” says Dellinger.

CURLS joins some of the biggest names in the business—RUSK, Modern Salon, KMS California, Aquage, Joico, Pureology, to name a few—in supporting the annual competition, which has become a true pinnacle of career achievement for stylists. Many consider it the Academy Awards of the beauty industry.

This year’s NAHA awards will be presented at 6:30 p.m. July 18 at the Mandalay Bay Resort in Las Vegas, Nev.

NAHAs are given in 13 categories, including Master Stylist, Hairstylist of the Year, Editorial Stylist, Student Hairstylist, Avant-Garde, Contemporary Classic, Fashion Foward, Haircolor, Salon Team, Salon Design, Texture and Makeup Artist.

Dimitrios Tsioumas

Dimitrios Tsioumas

A favorite category for Dellinger, and many stylists who focus on waves, curls and kinks, is the Texture category, which draws some of the most creative and innovative entries. “Those contestants are going to receive extra CURLS love,” says Dellinger.

This year, the NAHAs will also salute two professionals who have had a significant impact on the industry. The Lifetime Achievement Award will be presented to Beth Minardi, an internationally renowned haircolor specialist, educator and salon owner. Freferic Holzberger, an entrepreneur, educator and philanthropist, will be inducted into the NAHA Hall of Leaders.

Chad Seale

Chad Seale

This year’s NAHAs boasted a record-setting number of entries. More than 700 beauty professionals entered—up 18 percent from 2009 and a 35 percent increase from 2008. This is a testament to the growing prestige of the NAHAs, and the impact they can have on a stylists’ career.

This year’s NAHA judges include industry leaders such as Tabatha Coffey, Ruth Roche, Nick Arrojo, Mary Brunetti, Sally Hershberger and Sam Brocato.

Click here for more information about the event.

Innovative Double Detangler Helps Unfurl Curls

by Advertorial on Monday, June 28th, 2010

For September Sirico, salon manager of Greg & Tony Salon in Westport, Conn., Ouidad’s Double Detangler is indispensable. It cuts detangling time, helps in styling by helping the curl pattern to form. Sirico also says it also has boosted retail sales because her clients all want one of their own to use at home.

“It flies off the shelves,” Sirico says.

The pioneer of the curl movement, as well as an accomplished author, hairstylist and now inventor, Ouidad continues to innovate with the Double Detangler— the next generation in hair tools. Ergonomically designed, it transforms her signature in-salon “rake and shake” technique into an easy to use tool for at-home styling.

Ouidad began developing the Double Detangler several years ago by simply gluing combs together. After several prototypes—standard combs were too light, wide-toothed combs weren’t wide enough, and both options ripped and tugged at hair—she developed this breakthrough tool. The Double Detangler features teeth that are the perfect width, and rounded tips that are gentle on the scalp—gliding through even the densest of curls to detangle. By realizing that the size, shape and weight of the tool were the most critical considerations, Ouidad finalized her incredible innovation.

“My clients continue to inspire me. The Double Detangler evolved from the need to have a set of stylist’s hands at home to properly detangle hair while maintaining the wave pattern,” she says. Deceptively lightweight, the Double Detangler is the first tool to effortlessly work its way through waves—an essential step to achieving beautiful curls.

Stylist Jennifer Kenny of Tampa’s Tranzitions Salon agrees that the Double Detangler is a great item to increase salon sales. She recommends that her clients pack the tool in their beach bags and use it to “glide through tangles without damaging delicate curls.”

Stylist Tips:

• Use during shampoo or prior to cutting

• Can be used as a quick styler to help create a soft wave pattern by weaving through the hair or as a styling aid

• Before softening processes, the Double Detangler can be used to detangle and section dry hair without tugging, in half the time as an ordinary wide-toothed comb

The Double Detangler is $24 and is available at www.ouidad.com and at certified Ouidad Salons, select Sephora stores and Sephora.com.

Antonio’s View: My Favorite Hair Oils

by Antonio Gonzales on Monday, June 28th, 2010

antonio gonzales

I was born in Trinidad in the height of a hurricane. I spent my childhood surrounded by the sights and sounds and smells of Carnival and the other Indian, African and Spanish festivals of the Islands. Loving the amazing costumes, I got my start dressing my sisters and doing their hair and makeup. An opportunity came up to work with Trinidad’s leading costume designers, makeup artists and hair stylists. After I left the Island, my career evolved with work in Munich, Los Angeles and now New York City. Here in New York, I am a stylist at the Orlo Salon in the Meat Packing district. Vogue magazine recently named me as one of the rising hairstylist stars in N.Y., I was awarded the best haircut of 2008 by shecky’s.com, Gotham Magazine called me a Shear Genius and Allure Magazine featured me as one of the best cuts 2009.

See Antonio’s blog here.

I remember as a kid that natural hair oils were a big part of our culture when moisturizing the hair and fighting frizz. The local African, Indian and mixed races (like me) believed in their conditioning benefits and did not leave home without them. As I approached the beginning of my cosmetology career, products started becoming more refined and companies started using more water-based conditioners, saying that water was more moisturizing than oils. They claimed that oils were a bit harsh, clogging the scalp with over-absorption and making ethnic hair too limp and hard to style. We as hairstylists, all welcomed the new approach to getting healthier hair with the water-based conditioning hair treatments for fighting frizz.

Then silicone-based products took the market by storm and we hairstylists were educated on the use and benefits of high-grade silicone. High-grade silicone products were easier on the hair and were removed more easily, compared to low-grade silicone. We are now back to hair oils which are making a huge comeback. These oils are not the old-school raw coconut oils or even professional oils (like Pink oil) that stopped working after some time. Oh no, we now have oils that has been researched, perfected for the professional and taking over the market from the U.S. to Timbuktu.

From treatments to styling products, I am bringing to you, the salon owner and hairstylist, 15 years of the best hair oils, silicones and water-based products to help fight frizz and build your business.

Hair Oils

These should always be used sparingly

Hamadi Healing Serum

Trust me when I say that this product is a healing experience for over-processed hair. When I first used this product, I honestly did not know what to expect. So many companies make claims to have the best product. One day I had a client for color only, she was leaving for the gym and wanted to do a rough blow dry on herself. I did not realize that she grabbed the Healing Serum by Hamadi, and she came running over to me saying; Feel my hair, feel my hair!! What is this!! Her hair felt amazing!! The product contains an amazing blend of organic oils such as ylang ylang, palmarosa, olive and avocado, just to name a few.

The Morocconoil Miracle

In Trinidad this product is all sold out!! If you have not heard of this product, you need to move back to earth. This product has brought oils back to the salon with grace, delivering results that you will love. It’s an ideal product for all hair types, especially curly or frizzy hair and I love adding it to my favorite curl cream for extra support. I even add it to my hair masks for my nieces at the beach. It makes love to the hair. (smile) Read more about this oil here.

Nautrina Rejuvenating Pure Oils

I have written about this product before so for those of you who missed it, I bring to you a safe product to add to your color to prevent any scalp irritation. It’s pretty straightforward and delivers results. In the past I’ve used all types of products for this purpose, even sugar! (I’m that old) This product is a must for your color dispensary and a few drops goes a long way. Your client will love you for it.

Styling Silicones

Should be able to easily be shampooed out of the hair.

BioSilk by Farouk

Oh yeah, baby, it’s old school time! Back to when man was created. (just kidding) I still love this product for fighting frizz. If I’m on a shoot and for some reason I don’t have my usual kit, I can run to the pharmacy and this product will deliver like it always has. It can be used on wet or dry hair, and offers great protection from heat. If you are a small, first-time salon owner and you can’t commit to the big-name brands, get this and I guarantee you and your clients will be happy.

Serum Oleo Relax

Don’t let the name fool you. It’s not always about straightening hair to remove frizz. This high-grade silicone product can be added to curls to help control frizz when air drying. A tiny bit goes a long way so, although it’s not cheap, your client will have it for a long time. Kerastase have also made a stronger product that’s similar, but it’s a little too heavy for my liking. I do know that with this company, you have to carry a certain amount of the line, so it may be too expensive to stock in your salon. If you can carry it, I say go for it!

Boost by Orlando Pita +T3

Let’s bring on the big boys. This product gives a boost to hair that’s dry and has also been cursed with the F word (FRIZZ). When blow drying use a tiny bit of this non-greasy weightless formula that transforms tired tresses. This fast acting nourishing and hydrating formulation aids in straightening and fighting frizz. Give your client’s hair a boost by using on wet hair for either air drying or for blow drying. Your clients with frizzy hair should also use a little bit of this product on wet hair before going in to the pool or ocean. It can also be used on dry hair before flat ironing. All of that from one little tube which is why when I talk about high-grade silicone this is what I mean. Read more about Boost here.

Hair Masks

Should never be full of oil because we all know that water provides moisture as well.

Kerastase Age Recharge Masque

Although it’s a pricey product, it sells itself. For me, it’s easily one of the best hair masks I have used in a very long time. On virgin or color-treated hair, it will make your client’s hair feel nourished and shiny. And although it’s a cream, it will not leave your hair feeling lifeless. It really gives vitality back to stressed hair and adds shine to dull, aging hair.

Another Moroccanoil Miracle

This luxurious hydrating mask smells so good; it makes you want to put it on your carrot cake. I love how this product feels on my own hair and I even use it as a styling product at the beach. For a deeper treatment add some of the Moroccanoil treatment to the mask and see your client’s hair come alive. Its a great way to add a service that your client really needs which is not too expensive. Read more about Moroccanoil Intense Hydrating Mask here.

Paul Mitchell Hair Repair Treatment

I remember going to my first hair show in the mid-’80s and hearing about the man himself, Paul Mitchell. His passing was a huge loss to the industry, but he left behind a product line that will be known by future stylists to come. This hydrating treatment is worth having in your salon and will change your client’s hair. The best part is that it’s not too expensive and in these times that is music to our client’s ears. Read more about this treatment here.

I am happy to have worked with all of these products. As a hair stylist it is important to offer my clients the help they deserve.

Ron King: Tips For Keeping Strands Safe During the Summer

by The Style King/Ron King on Monday, June 7th, 2010

ron king

Ron King has worked as a hairstylist, transforming people’s appearances, for more than 20 years. With a growing celebrity clientele, King travels the world taking inspiration from different cultures and countries. Along the way, he has developed his own “easy wear” style philosophy which plays up a woman’s natural hair texture and pairs it with natural-looking makeup that’s easy to apply. This mantra led him to launch a signature line of cosmetics for women who want to look pulled together but who are are short on time. King has worked with some of the most respected names in the industry, including L’Oreal Professional, Ted Gibson, Eva Scrivo and Rick Wellman.

Many of your clients will be taking seaside romps this summer, which might seem like a good idea, but it can wreak havoc on their hair if it’s not properly protected from the sun and surf. Just as UVA and UVB rays can damage skin, they can also zap hair of moisture and color, leaving your clients with fraying ends and weakened hair overall, from the cuticle to the inner part of their strands. Doling out a little advice on the importance of sun protection in hair care, which will keep their locks luscious, is imperative. Read my tips below for some summertime inspiration:

- Use shampoos and conditioners with UV protection. Although not a perfect solution for sun-damaged hair since they rinse off, they will aid a bit and any additional help in the fight against hair damage is worth trying.

- On the other hand, using styling products with sun protection built into them is ideal since they are left to soak into the hair. Advising your clients to use products, leave-in conditioners and sprays might be their best option, with an SPF of 10-15 and applying generously before heading out for some fun in the sun.

- Wear a hat. As simple and old-fashioned as it sounds, hats not only protect your hair from the sun’s harmful rays but also shade your facial skin, which everyone could use. This will absolutely guarantee complete sun protection, and there are many stylish hat options currently, with a wide-brimmed, straw hat being perhaps the most protective and fabulous one.

- If your clients are wary of trying hair products with built in sun protection or don’t want to sport a hat, suggest they make their own hair SPF. An easy way to do so is to dilute 2 teaspoons of regular sunblock with an SPF of 25 with a cup of regular water. Using a spray bottle, then spray the hair while it’s damp and style as usual. This solution can even be reapplied throughout the day for added protection.

- Protect the scalp from peeling and damage. The scalp is one of the most common places for a sunburn but the solution to this problem is easy… Simply have your clients apply sunblock to their part when they are outdoors.

- Have them avoid sun-activated lightening treatments. Whether it is a homemade concoction involving lemon juice or a store-bought spray, these contain alcohol or peroxide usually, which will cause hair to dry out even faster throughout the summer.

- Moisturize, moisturize. A little bit of sun damage to hair is inevitable during the summer but have your clients combat this by conditioning daily in addition to using a weekly deep-conditioning treatment. Recommend using one with protein or keratin, which will strengthen hair.

- If possible, minimize the time spent in water as well. I know this is a tall order during the warmer months, but salt water and/or chlorine will wreck the quality of hair through prolonged exposure just as the sun would. Clients should keep tabs on this, opt to wear a swimming cap or simply keep their head above water when possible.

- Finally, if they are using hair care products with UV protection, have your clients use a clarifying shampoo once a week to prevent the products from leaving a residue and building up on the hair shaft.

Building Your Curly Clientele

by Ivan Zoot/The Clipper Guy on Monday, June 7th, 2010

ivan zoot

Ivan Zoot is the director of education and customer engagement for the Andis Company and the founder of Zoot! Hair professional hair care products. Ivan identifies, recruits, trains and manages Andis’ team of professional beauty industry educators. Ivan continues to be a featured presenter at industry shows and events, sharing his unique blend of information, education and enthusiasm for clipper cutting and the entire professional beauty industry. Ivan’s background includes experiences ranging from salon ownership to achieving 3 Guinness World Haircutting records.

So you are really digging the whole cutting curly thing…But you find yourself swimming in a sea of straight. Everywhere you look in your appointment book is long and smooth and straight. What is an aspiring curly hair cutter to do? It is time to build the base, to attract and grow a clientele of curlies. If you build it, they will come. Here are 5 great tips for building that curly client book.

1. Declare your intent: Words are powerful. Start spreading it. Declare your specialty. You have taken the classes. You have embraced the curl. Tell coworkers and the front desk staff that you are focusing on curly hair. Tell anyone who will listen. When I made the decision to specialize in short, I actually turned down all new clients with hair past the shoulder. Once the word got out, the short hair began to march in my door.

2. Alert the media: Send out press releases. Use class completion, manufacturer certification, hair show attendance, etc. to create news about you and your curly exploits. Your local media will eat this stuff up.

3. Show off: Build a style book of the great work that you do. Have a large album in the reception area. Have a small brag book in your purse or backpack. Show everyone who cares and even show it to people who don’t. it is O.K. to be a bit of a pest . . . a pest who specializes in curly hair and is getting busy cutting it.

4. Stock up: Carry hair care product specifically marketed to the curly client. Have posters and images up that connect with this crowd. Make the statement that you are in the business of supporting this business and this business will support you.

5. Ask for them: It always comes back to referrals. This entire industry was founded on word of mouth. One happy client telling another head of hair and sending them on in to see you—that is the way it works best. Ask every client who sits in your chair to send their curly friends in. Put business cards in their hands and send them happily out into the world to build your business. It really works. It always has.

Once you have the chops, you can cut curly and work with curly hair, you can walk the walk, the next big step is all this talk the talk stuff. If you do the talking the clients will come walking in. I would love to hear some of your success stories. Please share in the comments section below.

Enhance Medium Curl With Summer Styles

by Jill Leitz on Monday, May 24th, 2010

Jill Leitz

As one of the most sought-after stylists in the beauty industry, Jill Leitz possesses an endless passion for creating innovative and conceptual styles that display the perfect balance between texture and movement. After almost four decades in the business, Jill stays on the cutting-edge of the hair industry with her unquenchable thirst for knowledge and training on the latest styles, techniques and theory. From design and color to client building and salon management, Jill has been gifted with overflowing creative talent combined with a strong commitment to educating, empowering, and inspiring fellow salon professionals. As a three-time NAHA award-winner, Jill’s reputation as a innovative and creative force has been recognized in spades by the beauty industry.

Summer is coming—I can’t think of a better time to educate your clients about how to show off their natural curl! It’s the season for the natural look—the perfect time to help curly haired clients maximize their time having fun in the sun and minimize their time messing with their curls. In the world of curly hair, medium curl is the easiest curl to transform and change—good news for medium curly-haired clients who are looking for easy options this summer.

A few simple tips and tricks about handling medium curl, the most workable, pliable type of curl. As with any type of curl, it’s still vital to consider every step in the process—from how to touch it after washing, to selecting the best products and choosing the right techniques for setting the style.

Medium curl has a tendency to go frizzy, so less handling is better. Educate your medium curly clients to carefully and softly scrunch hair with a towel to get some of the moisture out after washing. Then, the choice of product depends on what direction you want to take. There are so many options with medium curly hair— enhancing and molding it into larger curls, structuring stronger ringlet curls, reworking it into a lazy wave, or setting it to dry in its naturally curly state—just to name a few.

I’ve found one of the most interesting ways to transform medium curl is to randomly put a pin curl set into the hair. It’s a quick way to transform medium curls into a beautiful, random assortment of different-sized curls. The most important thing to remember with this technique is let go a little and not to get too meticulous about sectioning.

Divide the hair into random sections—either long, vertical sections or wide, horizontal sections. Take the curl in its natural form, without pulling or raking through it. Gently lift each section out and apply a soft/light product (I use Redken Fabricate 03 to activate texture and give definition). Curl each section around your finger, then curl it back in toward the head and clip it.

Another option is to lift out each section and spray it with a light spray to seal in shine and smoothness (I recommend Redken Iron Silk). Roll each section back on itself so you end up with a stand-up curl and clip it. This transforms loose medium curl into a stronger, more committed curl. This technique also works well by using a piece of tissue shaped like a cigar, wrapping the hair around it, and tying to itself (think rag curls).

After all the sections are set, you can use a diffuser to dry the hair, and then go in with a flat iron and press each pin curl. Talk to and educate your clients. Let them try these techniques while you have them in the chair. They will feel empowered with new options. With a little practice—and the right product recommendations—your clients can easily master these techniques.

Presenting curly-haired clients with recommended products to help them embrace whatever direction they want to take their curl almost always results in the sale of a product or two. It’s a win-win situation, one that motivates, educates and celebrates your medium curly clients to look and feel their best this summer!

Ron King: Three Makeup Trends to Try

by The Style King/Ron King on Monday, May 3rd, 2010

ron king

Ron King has worked as a hairstylist, transforming people’s appearances, for more than 20 years. With a growing celebrity clientele, King travels the world taking inspiration from different cultures and countries. Along the way, he has developed his own “easy wear” style philosophy which plays up a woman’s natural hair texture and pairs it with natural-looking makeup that’s easy to apply. This mantra led him to launch a signature line of cosmetics for women who want to look pulled together but who are are short on time. King has worked with some of the most respected names in the industry, including L’Oreal Professional, Ted Gibson, Eva Scrivo and Rick Wellman.

Whether your client’s hair is naturally sun-kissed and streaky or she’s more of a bottle blonde, come spring and summer most women lighten up their locks. While brightening up their mane can do wonders for the face (creating a halo-like effect around it gives everyone a softer look), it is just as important to adjust their makeup accordingly to better suit their coloring. With all the cool new makeup trends on the market and with the warmer seasons coming up, now is the perfect time to show your clients how to switch up their makeup palette. Here are my top three spring makeup trends to show your clients.

Light & Lovely

Pastel eye shadow (inspired by the ’70s) reigned supreme at the spring/summer 2010 runway shows and is an easy trend to incorporate into your client’s look. Light shades like lavender, baby blue, and light green are especially flattering and versatile (lavender with brown eyes and blue or green on hazel eyes looks gorgeous). The key when selecting appropriate eye shadow is to keep the client’s individual coloring in mind. For fairer skin, try pastels with a bit of shimmer to add more interest to the face while darker complexions can get away with deeper-hued shades. Remember when picking an eyeliner to pair with pastels, that you want to stay away from matching the liner to the color of the shadow to avoid looking dated. Keep the look sophisticated and streamlined with brown or black liner on the top eyelid, drawn close to the lash line and maybe extending a bit out if they’re on the daring side. (I’m a makeup artist as well as a stylist and one trick I love is to line the top lash line with black liner and go over it with the pastel shadow.) Finish the look with sky high, flirty lashes by adding a lengthening mascara.

Partner this soft look with non-matte, dewy skin. You can get the effect by mixing a regular foundation with facial moisturizer or by simply using a mineral tinted moisturizer, like my own Mineral Sheer Tints. Highlighting sticks and strategically placed shimmer on the face create luminosity and help to achieve that sunny glow also. Rosy blush or bronzer and tinted lip gloss complete the face.

Go Nude

Another stylish makeup trend to update your client’s beauty routine is to have her try nude lip colors. Inspired by the mod ’60s, shades of nude lipstick and gloss (and clothing for that matter) were on the runways recently, and the look is perfect for those who prefer a more natural look. For lots of drama, go for a smoky eye in black or grey, which will offset the nude lip color. Keep blush to a minimum. For a simpler face, you might want to pair nude, glossy lips with tawny colored blush and light eye makeup (mascara and a neutral eyelid).

Bold & Daring

If your client prefers a more exotic face, take a hint from Dolce & Gabbana’s spring/summer 2010 show and go for loud, ethnically inspired makeup. Dark red lips were paired with bronzed cheeks and precisely lined black eyes. Accordingly, D&G was inspired by their native Sicily and the bold, sexy makeup popular there. Although the look is seemingly simple enough to achieve, instruct clients to proceed with caution. Be sure the red lip color is perfect for your client’s complexion and that the whole look is very precise and neat. It is also best saved for night or special occasions since it is a bit much for everyday wear.

Above all, have fun doing your clients’ makeup and remember that simply suggesting new makeup colors is a great way to drum up retail sales.

Curly Hair Tips from Sam Villa

by CurlStylist on Monday, April 12th, 2010

Sam Villa

Clients with curly hair are savvy. Chances are, they have tried every taming, moisturizing and de-frizzing product on the market, and have had more ‘one and done’ salon appointments than they care to admit. Want to learn the secret to keeping curly hair clients? Redken educator Sam Villa says it’s all about catering to the curl and gaining trust.

“Curly hair clients are unique because they are very knowledgeable about their hair, therefore, they have a lot of valuable info to contribute to a consultation. Listen more and talk less. Take time to learn about their curl pattern, how the curls fit together and evaluate shrinkage. The more you understand their hair, the more they will trust you,” explains Villa.

Villa offers the following tips when working with curly hair:

Cutting

Use a wide-toothed comb when cutting hair—fine-toothed combs stretch hair, disturbing the curl pattern and promoting frizz.

Concentrate on reducing the overall volume and increasing definition by cutting hair with clean, blunt ends. Curly hair needs weight on the ends for optimal curl. Do not use a razor—it thins out the ends and creates frizz.

Many stylists cut too many short layers in curly hair, creating ‘ledges.’ Assure your client that if layers are cut, they will be long layers with blunt ends to promote definition.

Take zig zag sections, for a more disconnected, natural shape.

Styling

It’s important to keep curly hair hydrated to minimize expansion, so always apply a leave-in conditioner. Try Redken Smooth Down Detangler. If hair is fragile and breaks, use Redken Extreme Anti-Snap to fortify and smooth the cuticle.

Concentrate on smoothing the cuticle. Don’t rough dry hair with a towel or dry hair with hot air (cold air will close cuticle and reduce frizz).

Most curly hair clients are product junkies, so recommend product carefully. Try applying one product to one side of the head and another to the opposite side and collectively make the choice on what works best.

Frizz is the #1 complaint from clients with curly hair. Applying a generous amount of styling product from the mid-shaft to ends will tame flyaways.

Use a finger diffuser—never touch hair while drying. Use the diffuser with airflow pointing down to limit the disturbance of the cuticle.

Use a shine serum —curly hair is not as shiny as straight. Try Redken glass 01 smoothing serum for more light reflection and shine.

To calm down curl, wrap small section around two fingers and spray with Redken vinyl glam 02 mega shine spray.

Additional Tips for Clients

Sleep on a silk or satin pillowcase—these fabrics do not rough up the cuticle, promoting smoother, calmer curls in the morning.

Apply a leave-in product like Redken curl wise 14 moisture rich cream (utilizes mango butter to tame thick curls, control volume and reduce frizz) then braid or twist hair and hit the hay. In the morning, curls will be silky smooth.

Use a makeup powder brush sprayed with Redken vinyl glam 02 mega shine spray and brush hairline and curls to reduce frizz and add shine.

Don’t shampoo hair every day—the more you shampoo, the more hair expands, promoting frizz.

L’Oreal Launches INOA at ABS

by Blog from America's Beauty Show on Wednesday, March 31st, 2010

loreal inoa
loreal inoa


One of the splashiest stages at ABS was L’Oreal’s. The company launched its new INOA color system with a bevy of models wearing spectacularly decorous headwear, including flowers, feathers and butterflies. The sizable crowd gathered around the stage gawked at the beautiful, colorful display.

INOA is a revolutionary new ammonia-free permanent hair color, which contains an odorless alkaline agent called MEA (monoethanolamine) that replaces ammonia. “It’s more conditioning for the hair and scalp,” says Ron King, L’Oreal spokesperson and owner of Bo Salon in Austin, Texas. “It’s like a treatment for the hair,” he says.

Click here for more information about INOA.

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