8 Tips for Creating Perfect Wedding Hairstyles

by Alicia Ward on Tuesday, May 31st, 2011

Veteran stylist Anna Craig of Trashy Root Salon & Spa offers 8 tips to help your client get the perfect wedding hairstyle.

1. Ask for a photo

Always help your client select a picture to show you of someone with a similar hair type.

2. Think length

Talk to your client about length right away! Remind her if she want to rock longer locks on her wedding day make sure you are open to clip in or permanent extensions.

3. Suggest something new

Make sure to give your client a different look. It’s her BIG day—go fancy!

4. Keep her dry

Make sure to use a product that fights frizz and humidity. Look for products that contain anti-humectants.

5. Ask her to show up ready

Remind your client to wear her hair into the salon straight or curly, depending on the final style.

6. Apply more product than normal

7. Remind her to book a trial

Encourage your client to book a trial run. This will give her an idea of what her final look with be.

8. Hands off the hair!

Tell your client not to mess with her hair when it’s wet to keep frizz at a minimum.

How to Achieve Salon Perfect Curls in the Summertime

by Chair to Chair/Shannon McCarthy on Wednesday, April 27th, 2011

Shannon McCarthy is a senior stylist and educator for James Joseph Studio and James Joseph Salon. James Joseph Salon and Studios are the most award-winning salons in Boston with more than 30 local and national awards. James Joseph Salon has been named one of the Top 100 Salons in America by “Elle” magazine, and James Joseph Studio has been named the Best Affordable Salon in Boston. James Joseph has also been one of the Salon Today 200 three times.

With summer right around the corner, focus on helping your clients understand how to achieve salon perfect curls at home. Styling hair naturally in the summer months gives a huge benefit to their hair looking good all day. Giving them a few good products to fight heat and humidity and a few tips on styling will make a big difference for their summer look.

There are many good products to choose from, so understanding what you have in your salon and what has worked best for you with different textures will help to narrow down a few “go to” products. Anything that is humidity resistant will be a great choice for all curly clients. This will allow their hair to keep the puff factor at bay. I have previously worked with the Phyto line and found their Phtodefrisant to be wonderful. It is heat activated and will actually relax the hair with the heat from the air. If you have something like that available to your clients it will be their “go to” all summer long. Cocktailing a humidity resistant product with a hold product for more unruly curls will also give lasting effects. Finding products that will withstand the test of our clients’ busy days is a real challenge, so take time to educate yourself on the products available to you and your clients.

Caring for summertime curls

Taking a few extra minutes in the morning to twirl parts of the hair and/or hand forming ringlets will help their hair dry better and hold a shape throughout the day. Work with them while in your chair on how to best approach this. Taking a few sections around the face to ensure what is most seen will look better than if nothing was done. Possibly this will even encourage them to take the time at home. I start with the hair divided into 3 sections. One behind each ear and the back of the head as the third. Starting in the front and remembering to keep the hair evenly damp, twist small sections to form the hair in the way it naturally wants to curl. In the salon, I will continue this throughout the head. Diffuse hair a little or place the client under a dryer to reduce frizz. At home, doing just a few sections around the face will not only make them look better throughout the day, but they will appreciate what a great haircut they are getting.

Encouraging clients to shampoo as infrequently as possible in the summer months can also make a big difference. Curls form better when well moisturized. Give them the most moisturizing shampoo that is appropriate for their texture and density. On the off days, a very moisturizing conditioner will keep it soft and easy to manage. Tell them to comb it through in the shower and leave it on while showering. This will keep their hair as moisturized as possible in the summer months.

Behind every good looking client is a great stylist. Giving them great haircuts is not always enough. Educate your clients on products and tricks to make their life easier. Hopefully, the effect will be curly girls learning how to embrace their curls… at least in the summer.

Texture Management Around the Globe

by Victoria Wurdinger on Tuesday, April 19th, 2011

In Curaçao, Yeddy likes to experiment with products that she discovers at beauty shows in the U.S.

Yeddy’s brightly colored salon and academy building reflects Curaçao’s Dutch influence.

Curl Control in Curaçao

One of the Caribbean islands of the Lesser Antilles off the coast of Venezuela, Curaçao has a population of about 130,000. There are many ethnicities and curl patterns represented, water and electricity are very expensive (as is importing products), and the majority of the population has curl in various patterns and lots of it. As a result, island stylists are among the best in the world at blow drying—and the fastest, because it saves electricity.

In the capital of Willemstad, Modesta Sluis-Rosario de la Cruz, who simply goes by “Yeddy,” is CEO of Academy Yeddy Trading Inc., which operates Kapsalon Academy Yeddy and distributes hair products to salons, pharmacies, stores and supermarkets.

Like many of the island’s inhabitants, who are descendants of former slaves from Africa, Yeddy herself is a transplant. Born in the Dominican Republic, she started doing hair at 14 in a Santo Domingo neighborhood nicknamed “Vietnam.” She worked in a narrow alley aside her parents’ house with “nothing but a broken mirror—and buckets of water for hair washing.” Even with limited resources, she discovered she was superb at the craft, so after secondary school, she attended beauty school. License in hand, she began traveling, and ended up in Venezuela at the age of 19.

“I worked in big, famous salons, as the only black stylist in a still very segregated environment,” recalls Yeddy. “I worked hard, but pay was not always that good, so I also started trading clothes that I bought in Curaçao. On one of my trips, I got stuck on the island; to be able to pay for the hotel, I offered to do the owner’s hair. She liked the results so much, she phoned others so I could do their hair, too.”

Soon after, Yeddy opened a salon on Curaçao. In 1985, she began importing hair products and her distributorship evolved into a successful business.

According to Yeddy, the island’s daytime temperatures range from 26 to 34 degrees Celsius (78 to 93 Fahrenheit), but since there is always a refreshing breeze, “We do not have really humid periods.”

The majority of women relax their hair, for which Yeddy likes the Chicago-based Curl Essations line because, “Essations relaxers leave the hair with a better structure compared with other relaxers I have worked with.”

Curl Up with a Guy

by Ivan Zoot/The Clipper Guy on Monday, March 28th, 2011

Ivan Zoot is the director of education and customer engagement for the Andis Company and the founder of Zoot! Hair professional hair care products. Ivan identifies, recruits, trains and manages Andis’s team of professional beauty industry educators. Ivan continues to be a featured presenter at industry shows and events, sharing his unique blend of information, education and enthusiasm for clipper cutting and the entire professional beauty industry. Ivan’s background includes experiences ranging from salon ownership to achieving 3 Guinness World Haircutting records. Here, he shares his cutting and business-building expertise.

Curly hair is not just for curly girls. There is a lot of attention right now on the salon industry focused on curly and textured hair for guys. Here are a few things to keep in mind when supporting curly-haired guys.

Go short. A lot of guys just do not want to deal with all that texture and volume. Be comfortable taking these guys quite short.

Grow long. A lot of these guys have been quite short for quite a while. When they come around looking for an update, growing out all that great curl can be a fun project and direction. Embrace the opportunity and support their decision.

Products are the key. Managing curl for guys must be kept simple. Gels, pomades and styling crèmes should be used, explained and recommended. Remember the products chosen and the quantities used will need to change as their hair gets longer. Most guys will not equate, “my hair is longer so I need a bigger glop of styling stuff.”

Use pictures. Trade journals and pop culture magazines are great sources of images to help steer client decisions and support consultations. Try to cut up a few to create a collage of current curly guy looks to help you communicate.

Remember rebooking. Growing out requires haircuts. Develop the habit of rebooking so as to prevent these curly guys from staying away too long or straying. Their hair will appreciate it.

Guys are big business and more than half the guy clients out there have some form of curl or texture. Be sure to get your share of their patronage and profits.

Help Your Clients Understand How Heat Damages Their Hair

by Chair to Chair/Shannon McCarthy on Tuesday, March 22nd, 2011

Shannon McCarthy is a senior stylist and educator for James Joseph Studio and James Joseph Salon. James Joseph Salon and Studios are the most award-winning salons in Boston with more than 30 local and national awards. James Joseph Salon has been named one of the Top 100 Salons in America by “Elle” magazine, and James Joseph Studio has been named the Best Affordable Salon in Boston. James Joseph has also been one of the Salon Today 200 three times.

I always talk about embracing the curl and loving what you have. Unfortunately, there are still many curlies out there who do not and who may never embrace my way of thinking. I have many friends and clients who worship their flat iron. As a stylist, I struggle with this because I see firsthand the damage to their hair. We all know old habits die hard. I have spent many appointments with clients trying to talk up why the flat iron is so bad and ways to save their hair. Yet I see the same clients returning to me with the same damage from the iron.

Curly girls who “worship the iron” is a trend I don’t think will ever change, so the best thing I can see is to try to work with them by focusing on what they need to do to protect their hair. I have talked until I was blue in the face about products and ways to treat the hair while still ironing. The truth is, there are clients out there who simply just do not want to spend money on products. It is our job as stylists to try to find the best and most affordable products to fit the client’s needs. No one likes a pushy salesman. This can be hard when you know that there is something that needs to be done.

I truly believe clients can tell when you are sincere in what you are saying. When they sense this, they will be a little more ready to invest in some products. They may not buy them that day, but they will strongly consider them for next time. Being knowledgeable with your salon’s product lines and the different needs of clients is also something that will shine through. They will begin to see exactly what you are talking about when they are at home using the wrong products and, most likely, will at least buy one product next time. You need to tell them things like “you need to protect the hair from the heat.” People know this and still don’t understand the importance of it. We need to show them in the salon the specific effects of what not using one creates. Point out the damage that is usually 3 inches in length if not more. Show them the breakage most “iron lovers” have around the hair line and the nape.

ABS 2011 Hair Show Wrap-Up!

by Alicia Ward on Tuesday, March 15th, 2011

Yesterday marked the end of another magic year at America’s Beauty Show in Chicago. We had a blast and absolutely loved the A-list of hair and salon professionals that showed up and flew in from all over the country and world. In addition to the A-list salon professionals were thousands of cosmetologists, hailing from every state in the US. It was a great show, big on theatrics and big on big hair! We wandered the show for days and rounded up the best of the best of the people at America’s Beauty Show.

ABS Texture! Panel with Top Curl Experts was a Huge Success

by Alicia Ward on Tuesday, March 15th, 2011

America’s Beauty Show was underway and thousands of stylist and salon owners gather to expand their knowledge, see top stylist and enjoy the entire “show” experience. Sunday March 13th was a huge day at ABS as it was the second annual “Texture” programming.

Texture! returned to ABS this year! This one-of-a kind free event showcased leading texture experts and educators in an intimate, interactive forum which included live hair demos. Texture! was hosted by NaturallyCurly.com founder Michelle Breyer and Modern Salon’s Editor-in-Chief Laurel Nelson, highlights of the event included:

Texture Trends: Fashion, Entertainment and Pop Culture Influences
Texture Cut, Color and Style: How-To Demos and Advice
Texture Opportunities: Make More Money Serving Curly Clients
Texture for Men: What’s New for Curly Guys?
Texture Q&A: Our experts, your questions!

Attendees were able to meet and greet the leading texture educators and brand leaders. The panel included the following:

John Benedetto, Director of Education for GK Hair: John has over 25 years of experience in the salon industry. In his prior role as Aveda’s Director of Global Hair Color Education, John was instrumental in creating Aveda’s Brands of Full Spectrum Hair Color and creating techniques for Aveda Collections at Video and Photo Shoots.

Shari Harbinger, “The Go To Curl Girl”: In her double-duty role as Director of Education for DevaConcepts and Color Director for Devachan Salon and Departure Lounge, Shari has both a loyal group of clients that rely on her for shiny, vibrant shades that are as modern as they are beautiful, and an enormous following in the salon industry for her eponymous training sessions.

Ouidad, the “Queen of Curl”: She is an internationally recognized stylist, salon owner mother, author and global educator. In 1984, as the pioneer of the curly hair industry, she opened the first salon in the country to cater exclusively to curly hair. Since then her trademarked cutting and styling techniques and specialized line of award winning products, have instilled confidence in curly and wavy haired people everywhere.

Anthony Dickey: He has spent the better part of his styling career—both on set and in the salon—trying to dispel the myth among women with kinky, curly and wavy hair that their texture is problematic or unruly. Touted as a “Style Svengali” by the New York Times, Dickey has mastered the mystery of textured hair to create iconic hair styles for designers, advertisers, photographers and celebrities alike.

Veronique Morrison: As Director of Education for MIZANI, a division of L’Oreal, USA, Veronique creates and manages the production of all technical curriculum, training programs, and creative trend presentations for a national salon audience.

Erica Grabczyk: American Crew’s International All-Star Erica Grabczyk certainly knows how to talk and cut men’s hair at the same time. She swiftly became the Director of Education at Groom Salon in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, specializing in male-specific design. Erica is top-rated in the City of Milwaukee for men’s hair (Milwaukee Magazine), having worked at Groom since 1999 as both a Lead and now Master Stylist. She trains nationally and internationally as an American Crew International All-Star Educator.

Ana Daniel, Artistic Director & Educator for Ouidad: This Dominican Republic native has spent several years working with Ouidad and loves ensuring that her clients not only have a style they love but also have the information they need to care for their curls at home. Ana’s work has appeared on the pages of many magazines and on the heads of numerous celebrities.

Getting Ready for Spring

by Antonio Gonzales on Monday, March 7th, 2011

I was born in Trinidad in the height of a hurricane. I spent my childhood surrounded by the sights and sounds and smells of Carnival and the other Indian, African and Spanish festivals of the Islands. Loving the amazing costumes, I got my start dressing my sisters and doing their hair and makeup. An opportunity came up to work with Trinidad’s leading costume designers, makeup artists and hair stylists. After I left the Island, my career evolved with work in Munich, Los Angeles and now New York City. Here in New York, I am a stylist at the Orlo Salon in the Meat Packing district. Vogue magazine recently named me as one of the rising hairstylist stars in New York, I was awarded the best haircut of 2008 by sheckys.com, Gotham Magazine called me a Shear Genius and Allure Magazine featured me as one of the Best Cuts 2009.

Organic, messy texture for spring

The change of season will soon be upon us. Having assisted super stylist Orlando Pita on several NYC spring fashion shows, I have learned a thing or two about achieving different looks this season. Keep in mind that as a loyal employee it is not my place to take merit for the beautiful work that was done. I was part of an incredible team headed by Orlando that pulled off the beautiful looks. Those memories remind me why I love springtime so much. It’s just so easy to be glamorous! So here are some ideas I’d like to share on how you can make each spring look work for your clients.

Product

One thing prevalent for spring is the addition of texture in most hairstyles. When I say texture, I’m not talking about uniformed waves that we see on most celebrities today. I mean texture that looks like beach hair without looking like loose curls. It is hair that looks like it was styled with a crimping iron or diffuser, less the uniformity, with the desired look being messier. Here are two different hair types and how to work with them to achieve what is hot for spring.

Straight or Wavy

The idea for spring is to create a messy texture that looks more organic rather than perfectly uniform. I recommend using Surf Salt Spray by Bumble and bumble with a diffuser. I would first towel dry the hair and work with five sections, one on top and the rest divided into four. To get the best results, work section by section for both product application and drying the hair (leaving the top for last). As you know the further away you hold the diffuser the less texture you will achieve and the closer you hold the diffuser the more texture you will get. It’s up to you. It’s important to leave no hair untouched—every strand has to be styled.

Straight hair is especially challenging when it comes to holding texture. If the hair has layers it will help you achieve more movement, but keep in mind this look is not about volume. After you have finished styling and the hair appears a little matte or dry from the salt, apply some Renew Dry Conditioner by Orlando Pita to add a little shine. The Renew Dry Conditioner is the only product I can always easily recommend. It is lighter than a silicone, which is heavy and will remove the texture.

Get Acquainted With Texture At ABS Chicago

by Megan Dorcey on Thursday, March 3rd, 2011

America’s Beauty Show is almost here.

America’s Beauty Show

America’s Beauty Show will play host to the NaturallyCurly, CurlStylist & Modern Salon Texture! panel for the second year in a row, which will showcase the most influential curl experts in the world.  We won’t lie—we almost can’t contain ourselves.

The high-power panel will include brands such as Hair Rules, Ouidad, Deva, Mizani and GK Hair.  This group of experts will also be hosting a demo where they style curls for you to see.  American Crew will also join the demo, showing us all how to care for our curly male clients’ curls.

This panel is comprised of the hottest names in curls, who will be speaking about how to make your business profitable in the curly niche market, the evolution of keratin treatments and smoothing systems and the latest cutting and styling techniques—just to name a few.  The panelists will also be available to answer any questions you may have about your own curly business.

Make sure to check out the Texture! panel at America’s Beauty Show in Chicago on Sunday, March 14, at 1:00 p.m.