An ‘80s Fling For Spring

by Victoria Wurdinger on Monday, March 1st, 2010

David Bowie and Madonna meet Nancy Regan and Debbie Gibson? Time traveling ‘80s style is all about wishful thinking because the street hopes things get rich again. In the original decade, punk revival and the “hair bands” were all about an in-your-face reaction to politicians, while closer-to-God hair signified hope. By the end of the era, everyone wanted to look like a millionaire. Or now, like a Gossip Girl.

This is great news for curl because this time around, the takeaway is in the texture. On the 2010 fashion runways, the Chris Benz, J Mendel and John Patrick Organic shows all showed off spirals and waves, while Carolina Herrera got Orlando Pita to mix-up natural with glam in textured and twisted chignons. The ‘80s influence was in sophistication and shine, accessories (barrettes and beads) and asymmetry. Even low-at-the-nape chignons were worn offside, a much better look than that ‘80s ponytail that sprang out the side of your head.

Says Fabian Bordelon, owner of Fabian’s in Baton Rouge, LA, “Redoing the ‘80s will be fun. Eighties curl was frizz; now, frizz is intentionally avant garde. The new mainstream looks are lots softer than the older influences, but they still have a strong perimeter. The square bob is a perfect example. Texture is more controlled, and as part of the trend, every manufacturer has a perm that can be used on curl to make it bigger or more refined. If you don’t have great home-styling skills, cuts are stronger; if you’ve been home-schooled in styling by a salon, disconnected cuts are right.”

Glam rock hair had its ‘80s chemical romance, and it’s no different today, as the flat iron gives way to curl softeners and smoothers, presented as “cold” versions of Japanese Thermal Straightening. (Basically, they’re thio-based products.) Going out on a limb, we can bet you’ll never see Jheri curls again; styling products meld right into the hair to moisturize and give shape without grease, as evidenced by the slew of dry oils on the market.

You can’t talk ‘80s influence without mentioning big hair and bold color. These, too, favor curl, which expands with ease and embraces panels and color blocks, as opposed to micro-lights. Explains Dennis Bartolomei, who owns a namesake Chicago-based salon, “Hair is more expanded today, like the early ‘80s Sauvage cut and the curly wedge. The shapes are wider with narrow napes and heavy bangs—the cut controls the curl. For color, blocking shows-off shades much better. Color is always multi-dimensional: like nature, with extra punch.”

What else can you expect from hair that’s a little more haute than hip? Here’s what hairdressers say is Too Hot:

She’s Like the Wind

Eighties hair was heavily rock-influenced, and 2010 trends were first showcased at the Grammy Awards. Talk about a difference! Volume was big but it went sideways, not up. Says Xena Parsons, owner of Xena’s Beauty Company in NYC and a Framesi educator, “Everyone at the Grammys had bend and wave. There’s no flat ironing now; curl can be crimped or braided and then let out. We like to use the tongs, which are U-shaped, as opposed to circular. Hair is styled with creamy pastes that disappear into the hair; they aren’t hard or sticky.”

For tight Afro curl, Parsons says texture is either left natural and cut geometrically or it’s softened and “redesigned” with a mild straightening product, like Framesi’s SILIS, which uses thio in a coconut-crème base. Longer hair is windswept or beachy. Says British-born educator Don Francis, who cuts at Marie Bove in NYC, “For the most part, hair is still very lose and mid-length-to-long, or quite short. The short trend will gain speed with the masses, like in the early ‘80s when the gamin crop was big. We just need another Mia Farrow to spark it off. Commercially, lengths are longer but they’re pretty shapeless and neutral, so that hair can be thrown up with accessories like hair bands and clips—not those ‘80s banana clips! Volume is definitely starting to evolve to an everyday thing.”

Girls Just Wanna’ Have Fun

Within the opposing trends of strong geometric shapes ( for shorter hair, tighter curl) versus near-shapeless (for longer hair, looser curl), disconnection and asymmetry come into play for the latter. Parsons forecasts extremely strong asymmetrical styles and for longer, textured hair, various disconnected lengths with volume in strategic places. This playful approach also mixes up textures, with crimped sections being most reflective of ‘80s hair. On her recent trip from Italy, Parsons says there were no real “hair cuts,” just good shapes that flowed naturally from shoulders to the mid-back. Texture play adds the fun, with waves, crimps, braids and curls adding spicy variety to a single style. However, even textural mixes look pre-planned, with a classic twist.

Roll with it

At iDaburn in Vancouver, B.C., Canada, (www.idaburn.com), stylists recognize that no two curls are the same. Explains the salon’s Floor Manager and Network Educator, Laura Garwasiuk, “This year more than ever, natural textures are in. They can range from barely there kinks to the tightest, most rebellious curls. Cuts are freehand, airy and inspired. It’s hard to put a limiting trend to what is going on in the curly world, there’s so much diversity. Our trends are in our consultations and executions. However, we especially love long waves or spirals with visual layers, cut and textured to each curl’s natural movement.”

Do That to Me One More Time

Au courant color may be more natural than Flock of Seagulls’ lightening-strike white, but it’s never a singular sensation. Here’s one thing everyone agrees on: roots are darker and ends are lighter. Bordelon adds color blocks by placing them to direct the eye, based on face shapes. Bartolomei says he lightens ends using balayage, but adds the end color to the underlayers only. It’s a big hit in Chicago, were Level 5 brunette gets feathered-on gold or pale gold end color. If you foil ends first, you almost always end up adding more balayaged pieces, he says.

Let’s Go Crazy

Also cool for curl is Parson’s Plasma technique, in which hair is placed on a Visibles see-through coloring strip before darker shades are added at the root area and lighter color is brushed-on the ends. Then, the hair is covered with another cellophane strip and the formulas are mashed together, while the colorist observes the borderline-free effect. Make it strong with whites and purple, or choose colors on the subtle side. The only requirement is that the color look opulent again…and Simply Irresistible.

Exclusive Interview: Giacomo Forbes Talks About “Shear Genius” With CurlStylist

by Gretchen Heber on Thursday, February 18th, 2010

Fans of Bravo’s hit reality series “Shear Genius” were probably surprised when celebrity stylist Giacomo Forbes announced last week, with the season barely underway, that he was leaving the show.

The A-list stylist did well in the first episode, earning compliments and respect from the judges. But just minutes into episode 2, Forbes interrupted the proceedings to announce to host Camila Alves and the other contestants that the series was over for him.

“I really love the competition but the living together part made me miss my kids,” he said today in an exclusive interview with CurlStylist. “I mean, the showers … there was no privacy! It was crazy.”

Part of the show’s drama is the ups and downs of the contestants—all strangers—living together in tight quarters. “It was like a dorm,” Forbes says, “and I’m not into that.” In fact, the curly-haired stylist said he wouldn’t be surprised if, going forward, the show’s producers focused less on the drama of the living arrangement—given the dysfunctional atmosphere— and more on the competition.

He said the whole thing made him think about what was more important, the chance to win $5,000 (as well as some seed money from Nexxus), or being with his kids. The choice was an easy one, he said.

Forbes also hinted that as a well-established industry stylist, with plenty of published work to his name already, being on the show to gain recognition or money wasn’t really necessary for him.

Forbes, who grew up in Rome, is well-known in the industry and has an impressive celebrity clientele, including model Claudia Schiffer and actress Marissa Tomei. After opening successful salons and manufacturing companies in both New York and Los Angeles, he made the move to Austin, Texas. There, Giacomo and his team developed a new line of innovative hair and body care products, meant to heal “hair, body and soul.” Both his talent and products have been featured in national print magazines including “Allure,” “Vogue” and “Harpers Bazaar.” His home base is Bella Salon in Austin.

With his stint on “Shear Genius” over, Forbes will concentrate on releasing an extension to his hair care line in the coming months, as well as a new skin care line that will “blow your mind,” he says. “People who love my Miracle Hair Oil Treatment will love the new products—both hair and skin.”

Also look for a new show from Forbes and Bravo within the next year or so—it’s still in the planning stages. “It will focus on beauty, food, fashion and health,” he says. “It will be called ‘Giacomo Forbes’ Favorites’ or something like that,” he says. “We’re still working it out.”

The show will highlight Forbes’ favorite small boutiques and shops from around the country.

Coverage from Fashion Week!

by CurlStylist on Wednesday, February 17th, 2010

Check out NaturallyCurly’s Fashion Week blog, live from New York!

Introducing CurlStylist Blogger Jill Leitz

by Jill Leitz on Monday, February 15th, 2010

I have a confession to make: I love curly hair. Since my very early days as a hairstylist, I’ve always been drawn to curly hair—intrigued and fascinated by its texture, structure and body. Curly hair has such an amazing, creative, playful, flirtatious energy associated with it. With its infinite shape, it exudes glamour and beauty, captures attention and draws the eye to it.

Most of my fellow stylists at the time were afraid of curl. They didn’t understand it, and didn’t want to work with it. But, I wasn’t—I’m thankful to say that I’ve always been comfortable working with curly hair. So I forged ahead, styling the hair of as many curly-haired clients as I could. I was hungry to learn more about it, understand the unique needs and challenges it presented, and discover how stylists could unlock its potential to create healthy, great-looking curls that their curly-headed clients would embrace, maintain and love.

I practiced. I experimented. I made mistakes. But, with every curly-haired client, I listened and learned. I listened to women sharing stories about how they’ve been fighting with their curls their entire life—trying to change them into something they were never meant to be. I learned that some clients have curls that will cooperate one day and then turn around and rebel the next day, leaving them confused and frustrated. I listened to cries for help from curly-haired woman who sought help with frizzy and dry curls, wild and uncontrollable curls, temperamental and unruly curls, and unintentionally big and voluminous curls.

I won’t say I’ve heard it all because I still continually learn from clients—past, present and future. But, I will say I’ve learned that curly hair is completely different than straight hair, in its structure and its overall needs. Understanding and respecting the different types of curly hair textures—fine, medium and coarse—is key to determining what your game plan is to giving the right cut and educating your clients about the type of care and products their curly hair needs to retain its shape and style. And, I’ve gained an understanding of how color really complements and completes the story of that beautiful, textured hair.

I’ve learned that one of my biggest thrills in being a hairstylist is helping someone embrace their curly hair, and showing them how their hair is special—showing them that no one else has exactly their kind, texture and shape of curl. It’s so much fun to see someone finally accept their curl—being there to see that moment where the light goes on and they see what you see: ways to transform their curl into something they can work with, love and show off. It’s at that point I feel as if I’ve given them a gift, and I’m so lucky to have been part of that process—achieving your and your client’s agreed-upon vision of their shiny, beautiful, naturally curly hair.

Curly hair has come a long way. There are two things that come to mind when I think of today’s acceptance and admiration for naturally curly hair. The first is today’s culture. Hollywood, celebs, film, music, runway, couture, fashion magazines—curly hair is literally everywhere these days. Everyone is showing off nothing but sexy, glamorous curls as the “in” trend. From Colbie Caillat’s soft, romantic curls to Taylor Swift’s wavy, mermaid locks, this year’s Grammy awards show was full of curly-haired glamour. And, last month’s issue of Italian Vogue—my personal bible of inspiration—didn’t seem to have one beautiful fashion spread that didn’t show textured, curly hair.

The second thing is product. Today, stylists and curly haired clients are supported with so many amazing products that help manipulate and transform almost any kind of curl into manageable, shiny, smooth, beautiful curl. Curly haired clients have so many incredible products at their disposal that help them work with the curl they’ve got, have fun with it, and make it the best that it can be in its naturally curly state. There are products that can help define curl, lock moisture into every curl, smooth frizzy curl, bring shine to curly hair, tame unmanageable curl, transform a day look into a beautiful, glamorous evening look…the list is practically endless.

I can’t say enough about the loyalty of a naturally curly client. They covet a stylist who can cut, color, finish and help them manage their curls. And rest assured, if one curly hair spots another woman whose curls she admires, she most definitely will ask for her stylist’s number. And she will regard that number as one of the most important seven digits in her cell phone. Word of mouth is so powerful in our industry. If curly haired clients experience that you really understand curly hair—they will believe in you and trust you—you’ll truly become priceless to them. They will rebook every time, even in these hard economic times.

And in addition to referrals and rebooking regular appointments, a curly haired client helps boost your bottom line. Educate clients on the maintenance of their healthy curls while they’re in your chair, and help them understand what products will help them work with their unique type of curl. Trust me, they’ll want to purchase those products to recreate and maintain their beautiful curls at home. It’s a win-win for everyone.

And, that’s what this blog is all about. I’m so excited and grateful for the opportunity to work with curlstylist.com - to share what I’ve learned from years of experience, as well as the opportunity I have to learn from fellow stylists. So, I want to extend an open invitation to all of you – feel free to comment about what I’ve said, share your experience working with curly hair, and really make this an interactive experience that will benefit all salon professionals.

A special note to stylists that are afraid of doing curly hair….c’mon, I know you’re out there. It’s time to confront your fears. It’s time to embrace cutting, coloring and finishing curly hair. It’s time to increase your knowledge by doing something that scares you again – because 2010 is all about curl and texture.

Join me every month as we explore the ups and downs of curly hair.

With love,
Jill Leitz

Attendance at the 2010 International Salon & Spa Expo Sets Record

by CurlStylist on Thursday, February 4th, 2010

Exceeding all expectations, a record 40,000 beauty professionals attended the International Salon & Spa Expo (ISSE) Jan. 30 - Feb. 1, 2010, in Long Beach, Calif. Produced by the Professional Beauty Association (PBA), the phenomenal attendance numbers, up 21% from 2009, combined with a wider array of educational opportunities and first-class exhibitors, reaffirmed ISSE’s position as not only the West Coast’s largest and most influential professional industry event, but also as one of the top international beauty events. Featuring 397 exhibitors, up 3% from 2009 on a sold-out expo floor, the positive numbers and better-than-expected sales many exhibitors experienced proves the beauty industry is resilient and provides a positive indication for the future.

“The International Salon & Spa Expo continues to grow, while maintaining a professional, first-rate experience for exhibitors and attendees,” stated PBA’s Executive Director Steve Sleeper. “The phenomenal, record setting attendance ISSE experienced proves the importance the industry places on this show and the value it places on education, networking and the opportunity to connect with exciting new products and services.”

Known for bringing in some of the biggest names in the beauty industry, ISSE 2010 featured overflow crowds for classes and presentations by Tabatha Coffey, Charlie Price, Ruth Roche, Karg + Blackwell, and Martin Parsons, to name a few. Exhibitors, many of whom invested in dynamic new booth installations on the reconfigured show floor, reported positive sales and eager customers. Discounts and “bargain basement” deals typically seen in the final hours of the show were not common with exhibitors selling through onsite inventory. Key exhibitors included: Conair / Rusk, Vidal Sassoon, OPI, TIGI, CND (Creative Nail), Clairol Professional, Farouk / CHI, Moroccan Oil, Global Keratin, and Sally Beauty Supply along with first-time standouts California Meltology, Nordic Hair Contrast, Belvada Cosmetics, and Color Spatch. PBA also reports a significant increase in onsite-exhibitor renewals for 2011, reaffirming the commitment the industry places on ISSE.

The other key mission of ISSE is to provide valuable education. Organized in a more concise manner that allowed attendees to follow certain “tracks”, over 250 education classes in hair, skin, nails, massages therapy, marketing, and business strategy were offered. Licensed massage therapists were also able to earn continuing education (CE) credits. From the renowned Technical Theater to the Latino Fashion Theater and International Fashion Theater, attendees were able to view and interact with some of the most respected industry professionals and gain insight into the trends, both in beauty treatments/products and overall business management, in an effort to help better position their careers.

One new educational experience offered at ISSE 2010 was the LFG Fashion Photo Shoot by the Masters. Presented by the Latino Fashion Group and taught by famed photographer Babak, aboard the historic Queen Mary, attendees were able to learn how to produce and shoot a first-rate editorial-focused campaign.

ISSE 2010 also hosted for the first time the Legends & Icons Gala, which honored Ann Mincey (legend), Robert Cromeans (icon), and Sonya and Christopher Dove (icons). Attended by nearly 400 beauty professionals in support of the PBA | NCA Cares Fund, the event was not only a beautiful and moving affair, but also an additional $3,400 was raised for Haiti earthquake relief through a special collection.

ISSE will return to Long Beach, California Jan. 29 - 31, 2011.

All About No-Poo

by Gretchen Heber on Thursday, February 4th, 2010

Some of your clients—especially those with textured hair—may have expressed a desire to avoid sulfates, an ingredient common in shampoos, as part of a popular philosophy that suggests sulfates are harmful to the hair, and dangerous to the body and to the environment.

There is much debate as to the legitimacy of this argument, with prominent hair care experts coming down on both sides of the “no-poo” debate.

Many prominent hair care experts agree with this philosophy, saying that using shampoos that contain sulfates dries and damages the hair.

“Squeaky clean is a myth,” says Chaz Dean, celebrity stylist and founder of Wen Hair & Body Care products and Chaz Dean Studio in Hollywood, Calif. “People thought squeaky clean meant clean hair, but squeaky clean really equals stripped and dried-out hair.”

How does this happen? Sulfates create a dense lather that strips away sebum, the oily substance secreted by the sebaceous glands that prevent your hair from drying out. You’ll find sulfates in many cleaning products—ranging from car cleaners to laundry and dishwashing detergents to shower gels and toothpaste. And, of course, shampoo.

“By cleansing your scalp [with sulfates] you’re robbing it of all the natural, essential oils and beneficial bacteria; you killed them and washed them down the drain,” says Dean, who launched zero-lather cleansing conditioners in the mid-1990s. “The bad and harmful bacteria replenish at a much more rapid pace than the beneficial ones. So, you open yourself up to a dry, flaky and sensitive scalp and psoriasis because you stripped the beneficial bacteria and left a minefield open for the bad bacteria to have a field day.”

Additionally, sulfates are known to cause gastrointestinal issues in people as well as lung irritation, so runoff from our showers and shampoo bowls possibly entering our environment is not a good thing, say those in the no-sulfates camp.

Many curlyheads have embraced the no-poo philosophy and avoid hair cleansers that contain any of a number of sulfates, including sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate, sodium myreth sulfate and others.

Instead of using products containing these detergents, curlies who embrace the “no-poo” method will often cleanse their hair with conditioner only. Some will use a brown-sugar scrub, and others might choose a “shampoo” with less-harsh cleansing ingredients, including coco betaine or sodium cocoyl isethionate.

Most conditioners contain mild surfactants that, paired up with a little manual friction, are capable of lifting off dirt, debris and excess oil from our scalp and hair. If a little extra help is required, an apple cider vinegar rinse can clarify the curls.

If a curly chooses to avoid sulfates, she must also avoid products containing non-water-soluble ingredients such as silicone, as a sulfate is generally required to wash those ingredients out.

This has lead many curlies to avoid products containing silicones, as well as those containing sulfates. As a result, many curly consumers have become very educated about product ingredients.

Several manufacturers have touted the benefits of no-pooing for some time, including DevaConcepts and Wen. And many other manufacturers have more recently recognized the benefits of developing sulfate-free products for their customers.

Still other industry experts say using sulfates in moderation is fine and indeed necessary to thoroughly clean hair.

Shampoo is critical to cleansing the pores of the scalp and allowing the roots of your hair to breathe, according to Ouidad, author of “CurlTalk” and owner of New York’s Ouidad Salon, the Curl Education Center.

Jonathan Torch of Toronto’s Curly Hair Institute agrees: “The word ’sulfate’ has become part of a marketing scare, and there’s a lot of propaganda.”

“You can’t just look at that one ingredient. I would never use anything that would irritate the scalp. When people say they have an itchy scalp, they’re not rinsing out the shampoo properly. You have to spend a lot of time getting the water all the way down to the root. I haven’t found anything better or that remotely comes close to [sulfates].”

“There may be a product with one drop of sulfate and 20 drops of silk amino acids to counteract anything that could happen from that one drop.” Torch says. “Concentration is important. Quality is important. All these things play into it. So, it’s an art and it’s a science.”

Some curlies opt for an in-between method, where they shampoo weekly or every other week, and do a conditioner-only cleaning in between.

The good news is that you and your clients have plenty of options!

Teaching Your Client to do Her Hair at Home

by Gretchen Heber on Thursday, February 4th, 2010

You’ve worked for two hours on your client’s hair. She looks amazing. The cut, the style… it all looks fantastic.

As she’s getting up from the chair, she comments, “I wish I could make my hair look this good at home!”

She has a point, and her concerns are shared by many clients, who often lament that they’ll never be able to duplicate their salon look at home, and that they’re doomed to second-best until they revisit the salon.

So how do you help your clients get “salon hair” at home?

Celebrity stylist and product entrepreneur David Babaii says it all starts with an understanding of your client. How much time does she have to style her hair? How knowledgeable and comfortable is she using styling tools?

“Once I have all this information, my job is to give them ways they can do the style at home,” he says.

“Usually when creating a new hairstyle, I book extra time so I can go through step by step what I am doing and how they can do it at home. I will even have them work with the styling tools before I finish the look so I can see that they are comfortable using them,” he adds.

Christo of Christo Fifth Avenue concurs. “When a client sits in my chair, they undergo a complete PsychoHair Therapy Session that includes a total consultation on her lifestyle and hair texture. This helps me better understand her needs so that I can deliver the best results.”

Christo also offers his clients a “hands-on styling lesson where she takes control and I correct any mistakes as well as give her tips.”

Los Angeles-based stylist Kimmi Hendrix wants to be sure the client is up to the task of maintaining a particular look before she even starts.

“If she or he is trying a new look, I try my very best to be detailed as to what maintenance will be like. I will share my honest opinion if her style of choice is high- or low-maintenance or just not a great option,” says Hendrix.

In addition to making your client feel good by being able to get “just stepped out of a salon” hair at home, there are practical reasons for making sure your client looks good all the time.

“As a hairdresser, it is imperative your client knows how to reproduce the look because her hair is your calling card. You want her hair to look its best at all times so other women will approach her on the street to ask who her hairdresser is—that’s how you land new business,” says Eufora founder Don Bewley.

“With every tool, brush and styling product I use, I make sure to place it in my client’s hands so she can see exactly what I’m using. The first step is the blow dry. After demonstrating which styling products to use and how much is necessary, I teach her how to section her hair off. From there, I demonstrate how to handle each section with the blow dryer, as well as which brush to use and how to hold it at the proper angle. I will often place the dryer in her hands so she can try it with me there to coach,” says Bewley

Other experts agree that a client must have a fundamental understanding of how to take care of her curly hair.

“The success of having great curly hair totally depends on a client’s ability to style their hair by themselves. Cutting curly hair properly only contributes to half of the success. The other half is just as important and it is learning how to manage and maintain each curl. No cut will stop frizz.,” says Jonathan Torch of Toronto’s Curly Hair Institute. “Some clients even need lessons on how to shampoo correctly.”

Legendary celebrity stylist Oribe adds that sometimes clients can get an even better look at home because “it is undone and looks natural.”

“I also encourage clients to not fight their natural textures. For curly hair for instance, find ways to have a beautiful natural look— a great cut and great products will make it easy to recreate at home— much easier than trying to get it straight every day,” says Oribe, who’s also created his own line of products.

“Being able to duplicate any style at home requires patience and practice. First, communicate that it will require practice and that you are there to assist in achieving at-home maintenance. And do remind them to be patient as they learn,” says stylist Sam Villa, a Redken platform artist.

Even with all your educating, some clients can be overwhelmed, experts say. So be prepared to offer even more guidance, post-appointment.

“Unfortunately, there is about a 50/50 chance she can really duplicate it on her own, so I always rebook the client for a complimentary blow-dry lesson with my assistant 3 days later. This is especially useful for new clients and existing clients who changed their look significantly,” says Bewley.

When Bewley owned salons, before founding Eufora, his salons hosted a “Learn the Art of Blow Drying” night each Wednesday. Clients who were having challenges could bring their blow dryers and see demonstrations of proper techniques.

So, educate your client from the moment she sits in your chair, continue to teach her as you work with her hair throughout the appointment and invite her back for additional help if necessary. Follow these steps and you’ll have happy clients who help you build your client base!

Curly Guys/Gals Tell All

by Michelle Breyer on Thursday, February 4th, 2010

We asked prominent stylists to tell us about their hair and what it was like growing up with curly hair.

Diane Da Costa,

textured hair expert, Mizani multi-textured expert /creative consultant and author of “Textured Tresses”

 

Q:What type of texture do you have?

A: If you look on the Mizani Natural Curl Key, my hair is a combination of Type V to Type VI - very curly and coiled. I have a loose afro with medium-size coils.

Q: How did having textured hair affect you growing up? How did you feel about your hair growing up and how has that changed since you became involved in the beauty industry?

A: My entire family has natural textured hair—from loose waves to coily hair. I was very comfortable with natural hair, but always wanted my hair longer and smoother as my hair was a thick and voluminous shoulder-length soft curly-afro hair. My sisters had mid-back length, long smooth wavy and spirally curly hair. So, growing up, I was somewhat envious of their hair. And my mother didn’t know how to style my hair — it was more difficult, so she made my older sister do it. She finally made me start styling my own hair when I was about 9 years old. That’s how I started in the business as a child.

When I was about 11 years old, I went for a relaxer at the salon so I could be more like my sisters with long and wavy hair. However my hair was relaxed straight.That meant I still had a lot of work to do with my hair, blow drying, roller setting, hot curling etc.

When I got in the industry, that completely changed. I got off all my relaxers, went natural and grew out my natural hair. It was at that point that I started experimenting with all the natural, curly styles and sets my mother would do to my sisters and tried on my hair when we were children. I love my hair for all its curls and versatility. Now with all the styling products and with the ceramic tools we have today, I am able to wear my hair blown straight without any chemicals or worn naturally curly with enhancing products. In the last two to three years, I’ve enjoyed wearing my hair straight in the fall and the winter. All I have to do is wrap it, dry, blow it out slightly with MIzani ThermaSmooth System and ceramic iron. Because I live in New York and I don’t have a texturizer, I wear my hair curly with enhancing products from about April to October.

Q: What do you think are the biggest/most important/most interesting developments in the world of hair texture today?

A: It’s amazing that everyone has embraced curly hair in all fashions and forms. Taylor Swift’s long curly waves are going to be the next big look for the spring. She’s taking the music and entertainment industry by storm, and everyone’s going to want her look, whether there are using irons, sets or extensions to complete the look.

It’s also quite amazing that there in the last 10 years that so many small, independent companies have been able to develop and manufacture hair care products for naturally curly hair, with natural and organic ingredients for all hair textures. And every salon brand now has a curly line incorporated in their overall product line-up with some natural ingredients included. Twenty years ago there were only about three, there were a handful of products available. Even Mizani, the multi-textured professional brand known for relaxers and treatments, has created True Textures Curl Defining System, which launches this month.

Q: What type of products/tools and what amount of time do you spend on your hair on “curly” days and on “straight” days?

A: On curly days, I’ll shampoo and condition my hair and apply a light leave-in cream on my entire head. Then I comb through it with a wide-toothed comb. After I apply a enhancing cream/gel on my entire head, I’ll go through the hair with my fingers and finger stretch with some products, section by section. This technique, the Mizani True Textures Free Hand Styling Technique, is part of the new techniques that I have created for the True Textures Styling Collection and Techniques, which includes six styling and three cutting techniques. After, I’ll air dry or diffuse to define the curls. Sometimes, I’ll place a turban towel on my hair and let the curls set in the towel while I get dress or finish up house chores, then I’ll finger comb with a styling cream or gloss for more vibrancy. All this takes about 10 minutes.

When I wear my hair straight, I’ll have it straightened with a wrap set, blow dry and ceramic iron in the salon after a weekly shampoo and conditioning treatment. On a daily basis, if I have to refresh the style with the ceramic iron. It takes me about 20-25 minutes, including apply a gloss or styling cream and comb-out.

Q: Any other comments/observations on curly/textured hair?

A: Curly/textured hair is the most versatile, and provides the most options, whether you keep it completely natural or use a texturizer.

Kevin Murphy

Stylist, “Texture Master” and creator of the Kevin Murphy line of products

 

Q: What type of texture do you have? Describe your hair.

A: I have salt-and-pepper curly hair.

Q: How did having textured hair affect you growing up? How did you feel about your hair growing up and how has that changed since you became involved in the beauty industry?

A: My hair was always really big, and I always felt like a boof head. I was never able to get the style I wanted without a lot of maintenance until I began to make my own hair products, which began in my kitchen at home. I could never get the right texture for my hair and once I made what I needed, a light went on in my head and I thought hmmmm there could be something in this.

Q: What do you think are the biggest/most important/most interesting developments in the world of hair texture today?

A: When I was young you just had to go with your texture, and there really were no products or tools that helped you get what you needed. You just had to suffer looking really goofy. Now there are so many products and great styling tools. If you aren’t happy with your texture you can just go and get a product or a tool and get the hair you want (with a little work, that is).

Q: What type of products/tools and what amount of time do you spend on your hair on “curly” days and on “straight” days?

A: I don’t really have straight days, but I do spend a bit of time with a “Doo Rag.” I apply a moisture cream first and have to flatten my hair with the doo rag and wait. If I try to blow my hair dry, I look like a Bee Gee. From start to finish my hair can take up to 30 minutes, but it’s more of a waiting game.

Q: Any other comments/observations on curly/textured hair?

A: My thing with my curly hair is it has a little temper tantrum every couple of day. You have to get the right thing in at the right time otherwise it’s all over. Straight hair really looks the same every day. Even after being a hairdresser for over 30 years, I just can’t roll out of bed, if I didn’t have my own range of products dedicated to texture I’d be screwed.

Nick Arrojo

 

Q: What type of texture do you have? Describe your hair.

A: I have fine, curly hair. In the past I’ve worn it long, but nowadays I go for a short, cropped men’s style.

Q: How did having textured hair affect you growing up? How did you feel about your hair growing up and how has that changed since you became involved in the beauty industry?

A: I didn’t like my curly hair at all as a teenager. It was very different from most of my friends and infuriatingly difficult to manage. Most of the time, I tried to straighten it as best I could, but the results were often disastrous—especially when it rained! Since becoming a professional, I’ve learned to love my curly hair, and I encourage all clients with natural texture to wear it natural. It’s a lot better to work with your natural texture than to try to fight against it.

Q: What do you think are the biggest/most important/most interesting developments in the world of hair texture today?

A: The best thing about modern-day curly hair is how acceptable it has become in our culture to the point where it is actually revered by many. I think that’s a great leap forward for naturally textured tresses. It’s also great to see a lot of products on the market that work really well with curly hair, helping it be what it should be: bouncy, voluptuous and unique. I’ve had clients tell me the ARROJO curl crème has changed their hairstyling life. That’s got to be a good thing.

Q: What type of products/tools and what amount of time do you spend on your hair with curly vs. straight hair?

A: Right now my hair is so short that I only use one product: texture paste. I only spend two minutes working a little paste through for extra texture and definition.

Q: Any other comments/observations on curly/textured hair?

A: You should love and embrace your natural texture. It truly is unique and wonderful.

Michael Crispel

KMS California artistic team member from Earth Salon in Toronto

Q: What type of texture do you have? Describe your hair.

A: I have thick and coarse curly hair.

Q: How did having textured hair affect you growing up?

A: I was the FRO child in school and was singled out as the ethnic kid.

Q: How did you feel about your hair growing up and how has that changed since you became involved in the beauty industry?

A: As a child I wanted flat hair that was smooth so I would blend in but as I became a hair stylist I learned to embrace my hair with all the salon products that gave me so many options, from long to short textured—making my hair the most versatile of anyone in the salon.

Q: What do you think are the biggest/most important/most interesting developments in the world of hair texture today?

A: Curly products have come a long way. In the ’70s and ’80s, it was gel or mousse at best for a natural look. But now we can give hair nutrition and style in the same products.

Q: What type of products/tools and what amount of time do you spend on your hair on “curly” days and on “straight” days?

A: KMS California Curl up Control Cream, with a diffuser, for curly days and Silk Sheen Therapy Plus or straight days

Q: Any other comments/observations on curly/textured hair?

A: We curly people are the most diverse hair type in the world, and the most afraid so for all the hair salons do your home work know your clients and products and proceed with caution!

Lorraine Massey

 

Q: What type of texture do you have? Describe your hair.

A: I have predominantly corkscrew curls. But when it’s ultra humid, the mood ring personality of my curls can change on a whim and become “bottiscrew,” which is a mix of corkscrew and Botticelli! After pulling a curl strand to its actual length and releasing it, its spring-back factor can be as much as 6 inches! That’s why it’s a disaster when you cut curly hair wet. Anything wet expands, and when it dries, it contracts. It’s like a transformer.

Q: How did having textured hair affect you growing up? How did you feel about your hair growing up and how has that changed since you became involved in the beauty industry?

A: I was so young when I figured out “this is it!” me, my curls and I till death do we part! But I was not happy about it until later in life. We curlies are not born loving our hair. We have to learn to love it and if we are lucky to find a curl sponsor who will encourage us on our unavoidably curly path—that is priceless! As a child, the teasing and name calling didn’t help either with comments like “with hair like that you don’t notice her ankles”!

Q: What do you think are the biggest/most important/most interesting developments in the world of hair texture today?

A: The Devafuser is truly unique and efficient in its design and makes so much “logiCURL” sense! I don’t think there are any other developments at the moment—just regurgitated sameness but packaged differently. It’s all geared to make you feel you are not quite good enough to really have and love what you are born with!

Q: What type of products/tools and what amount of time do you spend on your hair on “curly” days and on “straight” days?

A: Frizz and curly hair is still severely misunderstood! Unruly is a word I hear all the time in the media, and I do not like it! As they say in text book, “unruly children are looking for consistency.” Same goes for curls! When your consistent in your approach, you get consistency back. I started to love my curls the day i stopped shampooing! So no shampoo equals no sulfates. Add superior conditioners and alcohol and silicone free gels. Love me as I am and do not disturb curls in progress.

The only straight I do is talk straight or straight to bed (but always curly to rise). I am a 100 percnet committed Curly Girl, and I spend such little time on my curls because fuss equals frizz. For me it’s about truly radiCurl simplicity.

Q: Any other comments/observations on curly/textured hair?

A: When the word “texturized” is applied to natural textured hair, it really concerns me since curly hair is nothing but texture naturally, and with what I have observed over the last 10 years by committing to the natural selection, is what can happen naturally in the hair is far more beautiful than anything I can manufacture, “ManuFracture” or impose upon! It’s very humbling and goes against all we in the hair biz have been trained to do!

Ouidad

 

Q: What type of texture do you have? Describe your hair.

A: I have a combination of tight and loose curls. When I was younger my hair was so thick that if I ran my hands through it, I would lose any rings I had on my fingers.

Q: How did texture hair affect you growing up? How did you feel about your hair growing up and how has that changed since you became in the beauty industry?

A: I grew up in Beirut, Lebanon where everyone has beautiful curly hair of all shapes and sizes and color. It was the norm! When I came to the United States, people would make fun of my sister’s and my curls and no one knew how to work with curls or how to handle them.

This motivated me to be the pioneer of the curly hair industry by establishing the first salon dedicated to curly hair and creating the first product line specifically for curls. Since I started my curly hair crusade 25 years ago, the curly hair segment has grown tremendously and a lot more attention is paid to it.

Q: What do you think are the biggest/most important/most interesting developments in the world of texture today?

A: Today texture is celebrated - it’s big, it’s beautiful, it’s sexy. IT has a language of its own and it’s sought after in all aspects of fashion, beauty and design.

Q: What type of products/tools, and what amount of time do you spend on your hair on “curly” days and on “straight” days?

A: What’s a “straight” day? I only have one kind of day with my hair - CURLY! It takes 5 minutes to do my hair, and it lasts for two to three days. I use a range of my [Ouidad] products and my Double DetanglerTM both as a comb and as a styling tool for my hair. The sky’s the limit with my Double Detangler - it gives me the opportunity to create any type of curl or wave pattern.

Q: Any other comments/observations on curly/textured hair?

A: I believe textured/curly hair is regal and the most beautiful hair in the world. It has so much dimension and plays up the features of its owner.

How to Become a Texture Expert

by Rachel Peters on Monday, February 1st, 2010

You know textured hair is an emerging market and you want to be a part of it — you want to offer your curly haired clients the very best service. But because your cosmetology school gave scant attention to curly hair and its special needs, how do you become an expert in textured hair?

Experience, of course, goes a long way. The best way to learn is to practice and try new things. Tina Huff of Burnham, Pennsylvania, says, “I learned to cut curly hair by watching videos, going to educational classes offered through my salon, and by practicing on a few of my friends.” Practicing on curly friends, clients, and other stylists can be a tremendous learning tool.

Curlies know more than anyone what works on their hair. Another great tool is the Internet. Now, it’s easy to check out instructional videos on YouTube and CurlStylist.com. Some hair care companies offer tutorial videos on their websites or on DVD. Check with your salon owner to see about purchasing some educational materials or buy them together with a few other stylists. Educational videos are a great investment, boosting your level of knowledge and confidence. Another great way to learn is to pay attention to what other more experienced stylists in your salon are doing. Think of it as a free, live tutorial from an experienced expert.

Similarly, pay attention to what newer stylists are bringing to the industry. Techniques, both old and new, are equally valuable to all stylists. Don’t be afraid to ask questions and advice.

Continued education classes are beneficial and often required for working hair stylists and professionals. Classes can serve to refresh stylists’ knowledge of older techniques and can introduce newer, cutting-edge styles to the hair styling community. Specialty certifications can offer more specific education within the parameters of texture, ethnicity, or other hair type.

Ouidad

Award-winning stylist Ouidad, has become an expert in the art of working with curls. After developing trademarked cutting and styling techniques, she began to share her knowledge with other stylists. Ouidad Curl Certification classes are held at Ouidad’s flagship salon in New York City, NY. These intensive classes take two days to complete. Each day of training consists of close observation and hands-on technical education. One stylist will go through five models over the course of the class. All stylists are expected to show mastery of the Ouidad methods of styling and cutting in order to become certified. After passing the test, stylists can expect raise their prices; $95 for a haircut and style, $65 for a style alone. In order to be considered for her classes, Ouidad advises that your salon be at least five years old and cater to curly haired clients. Retail and client demographic information are expected as well as the completion of confidentiality and non-compete agreements. Visit ouidad.com If you or your salon is interested in applying for a Ouidad class.

DevaConcepts

DevaConcepts is an internationally known hair care company that has developed a hair care system specifically for curls and waves. Deva offers cutting, coloring, and styling “Curlaboration” classes to stylists throughout the year at their Devachan Salon in New York City, New York. Stylists should expect to pay $395 for the one-day course – products and lunch are included. Stylists will become proficient in dry cutting and the Deva color technique, Pintura and become a “Deva-inspired stylist.” If a salon becomes a Deva-inspired salon and carries Deva products, Deva will send an educator to offer continuing education to its stylists. If you or your salon owners are interested in applying to Deva’s continuing education classes, or to see if you can carry Deva products in your salon, visit devaconcepts.com

Curlisto Systems

Christo of Curlisto Systems learned about styling curls in Greece where 90% of women have curly hair. After developing his own techniques like the “smart light” coloring technique and the “Curlisto Method,” Christo went on tour with beauty trade shows to share his knowledge with fellow salon professionals. He has also developed his own line of products for curly hair and teaches the best way to use them on your clients. You can catch Christo at the next International Beauty Show (IBS) and online at shop.curlisto.com.

General Education

Several major hair care companies offer excellent classes for stylists looking to boost their knowledge and rack up continued education hours. Bumble and bumble and Redken, among others, offer cutting and coloring classes covering all hair types and textures. Straight, wavy, and curly techniques are usually taught at flagship salons throughout the U.S. Despite the lack of curl-specific education, these companies still offer helpful and beneficial technical education to stylists. Their certifications can still boost your resume and allow you to charge more for specialty services.