Archive for the ‘Curly Care Basics’ Category

Creating Polished Curls On Curly Hair

by Modern Salon on Thursday, June 25th, 2015

Most stylists don’t understand the amount of product curly hair needs to maintain any style,” says Holli CadmanPaul Mitchell Schools Advanced Academy member. “When curly hair is styled, you need about twice as much product as you need for straight hair. This will allow for a soft, conditioned style whether the hair is worn naturally curly or straight.”

Cole ThompsonSassoon creative director, and Traci Sakosits, Sassoon North American creative director, agree that when styling, products must be distributed evenly and hair should be dried completely. If it is worn naturally, the hair can be finger-combed or ribboned in sections to close the cuticle and then diffuse-dried. Here, minimal manipulation is key, or you’ll end up with frizz.

Damage from the excessive use of heat styling tools is a concern for everyone, but especially for clients with textured hair, who suffer when breakage results in curls looking dull and lifeless. Fortunately, there are non-thermal options that stylists can offer clients to avoid direct heat.

Wet-styling

“Curls can be delicate and at times prone to damage,” says Melanie Fahey, assistant vice president of creative and education for Ouidad. “Excessive manipulation can fragment curls and cause fraying and frizz, so it’s important never to force a curl into submission. The key to styling is to position curls as they transition from wet to dry.”

Ouidad’s “rake and shake” is a simple, effective styling method that encourages and sets curl formation with just product and the touch of fingertips. For this technique, a client’s hair is sectioned off in to a unique pattern that best suits her curl type, and the prescribed product recipe is applied to each curl section individually, allowing the hair to form defined, breathable curls. Each section of the hair requires special attention to ensure there’s an even distribution of product.

For this reason, many stylists recommend applying product when the hair is wet. Hair product usually reacts better to wet hair because the hair is able to absorb product more effectively. Hair will only accept the amount of product it can absorb—layering the hair with too much moisture will produce limp, unresponsive curls.

“When defining curls with water or a styling product, stylists should let the hair crest or dry momentarily before manipulation,” says Mizani educator Toni Garcia-Jackson, who is also a salon owner and textured color artist for Product Club. “Running your fingers or a tool through wet hair separates the cuticle and contributes to the frizz factor.”

originally published on ModernSalon.com.

Cutting Curls and Coils

by Modern Salon on Thursday, June 11th, 2015

Every service on a curly haired client should start with a thorough analysis. Each curl has its own identity and will react differently.

Michelle Breyer of TextureMedia says failure to account for shrinkage is one of the most irksome curly community issues. When stretched, a tight curl might be one and a half to two times longer. Remember — the smaller the diameter of the curl, the more it will shrink. Due to the amount of shrinkage and frizz that is naturally associated with curly hair, cutting hair wet or pre-straightened can be deceiving and often creates inaccurate results.

Wet vs. dry

“Always cut hair the way it will be worn — blown-out or natural — and cut within the curl, where it twists, never straight across,” says Mizani’s Evie Johnson. “For instance, if you blow dry curly hair, cut it dry and then wet it, the hair will end up shorter, and the client won’t like it for three or four months. Cut it wet for versatility. For coily hair, blow it out and cut it dry. You can wet-cut it, but when the various curl patterns are blown out, it won’t look good. It’s also difficult to maintain even moisture when cutting coily hair.”

Textures vary and so should your cutting approach. When hair is curly, there are many advantages to cutting it dry. Nevertheless, wet hair also gives stylists lots of information about the hair’s shape, elasticity, texture and behavior. For those reasons, educators and master stylists such as Arrojo Studio Educator and Master Stylist Lina Arrojo, tend to judge each head individually.

“We shampoo and condition the hair, let it dry or almost dry while observing its behavior, and then do the cut,” Arrojo says. “Once done, we will rewash the hair and observe its behavior again before refining the cut as appropriate.”

Selecting your tool

A razor is a precision tool, and when used correctly, it offers natural-looking results for wash-and-wear hair styles. Using a razor helps to enable more movement, redefines the texture of the hair and thins out thicker textures.

“What many stylists seem to forget is that a razor can also be used to cut length, add weight and even create blunt lines,” Arrojo says. “A razor can do many things that shears can do, and the single blade allows for more versatility and detailed work on curly hair. If the blade is sharp and glides through the hair, it can be used to define, enhance and create beautiful, soft, fluid movement in nearly all types of curly hair.” Dull blades can cause frizz on all hair types, which is exacerbated on curls and coils.

When razor cutting, be careful not to remove too much weight or add too much texture. According to Arrojo, density helps the structural integrity of the curls and thinning out the hair too much will cause curls to fall flat. Due to the coarseness of coily hair strands, avoid razor-cutting on highly texturized hair. This curly type is prone to shred when met with the blade, which makes it difficult to create a consistent cut.

Similar to a strand test for chemically treating the hair, Arrojo recommends cutting a few strands with a razor to test how the hair will react. If the ends do not shred, it’s OK to proceed. However, if shredding occurs, switch to shears.

Curl-specific methods

Ouidad, renowned stylist, salon owner, educator and founder of Ouidad products, recognizes and identifies four specific curl types — loose, classic, tight and kinky — and offers the only trademarked proprietary carving-and-slicing cutting methodology for the four curl types.

“It’s not about thinning; it’s about strategically cutting with the curvature of the curl pattern to allow the client to have movement,” Ouidad says.

The technique is designed to remove the bulk that causes pyramids and enhances the natural curl pattern to achieve well-defined ringlets that interlock into each other like puzzle pieces. Carving and slicing allows the stylist to lighten the client’s hair without reducing the volume. The result is hair that will hug the head more instead of expanding outward to the sides. For clients who are concerned with elongation, this is a great method to achieve the illusion of length.

“At Ouidad, we firmly believe in mastering our certified carving and slicing method when the hair is freshly cleansed and treated and in its natural wet state,” says Melanie Fahey, assistant vice president of creative/education for Ouidad. “A Ouidad-certified stylist analyzes each client’s unique curl pattern and texture, listens to their history and defines their goals—then formulates a tailored plan to optimize their curls.”

According to DevaCurl Vice President Shari Harbinger, “For coily hair, dry-cutting allows the true curl behavior to be seen.” The Deva Cutting technique is a trademarked method by Lorraine Massey for cutting curly hair. Hair is sculpted curl-by-curl in its natural state according to the client’s lifestyle, personality and preferences. This method of cutting combines technical and visually artistic techniques to offer a customizable design tailored to the needs of every curly client.

What makes this cutting technique unique is that the hair is cut curly and dry. According to DevaCurl, cutting curls wet does not allow the true nature of the curl pattern to be seen and therefore does not translate visually once hair is dry.

Original article found on Modern Salon

Textured Hair: Understanding the Canvas

by Modern Salon on Monday, June 1st, 2015

When you talk hair texture, get your terminology right first, then key-in on what’s different.

“Many people consider curl pattern to be the distinguishing factor between waves, curls and coils, but that is only one aspect of hair type,” says Michelle Breyer, president of TextureMedia Inc. in Austin, Texas. “Porosity, density, width and length greatly impact how hair will react to products, cuts and styles.”

How it grows

Time for a beauty school brush-up! In lay terms, textured hair is wavy, curly or coily. What determines it: the follicle shape and the angle at which hair grows out of the head.

The follicle, which molds the hair’s shape, is either close to round (in straight hair), oval or elliptical (wavy and curly hair), or a very flat elliptical (coily hair). Additionally, straight hair grows perpendicular to the scalp, waves and curls can grow on a diagonal or oblique angle, and tight coils grow parallel to the scalp. As the coils grow out, they twist around themselves.

“Imagine a drinking straw; it’s what a cross-section of straight hair looks like under magnification,” says Sam Villa, founding partner of the Sam Villa brand and education artistic director forRedken 5th Avenue. “Now visualize slightly pressing on the sides of the straw to make it more oval shaped. This gives you an idea of what textured hair looks like. The tighter the curl pattern, the flatter the oval becomes. If you look at extremely tight coils, they are almost similar to a thick ribbon.”

Adds Shari Harbinger, vice-president of education for DevaCurl, “the growth pattern of textured hair—which makes up 65 percent or more of the population—typically follows a horizontal when growing, as opposed to the vertical growth of authentically straight texture. The tighter the texture, the longer it takes to see visually perceived length. Once you elongate or stretch the hair, the actual length is revealed.”

Additionally, says Josephine Salvatoriello from The Avenue Salon in Caldwell, New Jersey, it’s a common misconception that curly hair grows slowly—it grows, on average, at the same rate as other textures at about half an inch each month.

“The reason you may not notice the growth is due to hair shrinkage, which tends to cause the hair to grow out or at an angle, causing it to grow big instead of grow down,” says Salvatoriello, who is also a Lasio-certified keratin specialist and educator.

Textured hair vs. hair texture

So, what does texture really refer to? According to Lakeisha Weston, an educator for Empire Beauty Schools in Memphis, Tennessee, “Hair texture is the thickness or diameter of the individual hair strand. A single strand can be coarse, medium or fine. Hair density measures the number of hair strands on one square-inch of scalp. Density is low, medium or high. So, a client might have low-density (thin) hair, but large-diameter strands or a coarse texture. Two people with the same hair texture can also have very different densities.”

Straight, wavy, curly and coily are really hair types. It’s just that wavy, curly and coily are commonly called “textured” types.

Any client with a textured hair type can have different curl patterns throughout her hair, or even along a single strand. And a tighter curl pattern doesn’t necessarily mean a coarse hair texture—often it’s the opposite.

“Hair that waves usually starts getting wavy at the mid-shaft,” says Evie Johnson, a Mizani artist who works at E & E Hair Studio, Upper Marlboro, Maryland. “Curly and coily hair can have very mixed curl patterns throughout the head and on a single strand. Additionally, super curly or coily hair can be fine, fragile and break easily, unlike coarser hair, which has a large diameter.”

Adds Villa, “An easy mistake to make is to assume that tight curl has more density to it. It can appear to because each strand occupies more space due to how close together the pattern is. I’ve had many experiences where a guest comes in with natural curl and it seems like a massive amount of hair, but after blow drying it smooth, I realize that the overall density is quite low or sparse.”

The porosity impact

The final major player in working with waves, curls and coils is porosity or the ability of the hair to absorb moisture. Porosity is directly related to condition of the cuticle, which ranges from flat or smooth and resistant to overly porous, which is damaged, dry, fragile and brittle.

According to Paul Mitchell Schools Advanced Academy member Holli Cadman, porosity is a key factor with textured hair types. The cuticle of straight hair lies flat more easily, allowing for lower porosity, a closed cuticle and shine. As the hair increases in movement, that changes. Wavy, curly and coiled—or tight, compact zigzag formations of the cuticle—make the hair less able to lie flat, because the hair itself isn’t flat.

“The more open the cuticle, the greater the porosity and less light reflection off the cuticle or shine,” Cadman says. “Porosity must be taken into consideration when working with textured hair.”

Heat Exhaustion

by Modern Salon on Thursday, October 2nd, 2014

Curlies have new options for limiting their hair’s exposure to thermal tools.

DAMAGE FROM the direct heat of flatirons is a concern for everyone, but especially for clients with textured hair, who really suffer when breakage causes shortened, frizzed-out ends. The frizz factor also comes into play when hair is not completely dry, but blowdrying heavily textured hair takes forever! No wonder textured hair clients look for products that cut blowdry time.

“Time is the new currency,” says CosmoProf Marketing Director Rachel Jud. “When clients can forego adding the step of heat styling, that’s adding time to their day.”

Kenra’s client campaign, “Live More, Dry Less,” invites clients to share what they do with the time freed up from blow-drying by advanced products. “It might be that they read, spend more time with their kids or hit the snooze button,” says Kenra Brand Manager Stephanie Ulmer, who points out that quick blow-drying adds time to the stylist’s day as well, permitting you to book tighter appointments to fi t in more clients and increase your income.

With lots of natural looks emerging on fashion runways, textured clients are encouraged that they might not need heat at all.

“Sometimes it takes more effort to look effortless!” Jud says. “As the professional, you can help clients to make the effortless look truly effort-less to achieve.”

Luckily, today’s technology helps curly clients both avoid direct heat from irons and reduce all heat-styling time.

NON-THERMAL TOOLS

Advances in simple tools can help to direct and control curl. Experiment with different patterns to achieve varied curl effects.

  • Mizani Lacers

Mizani’s circle-shaped foam tool gently defines even the tightest coiled hair while boosting dimension and controlling frizz.
Apply True Textures Leave-in-Conditioner along with Mizani Foam Setting Lotion and True Textures Moisture Stretch. Then lightly blowdry to elongate hair and remove excess moisture.
Using a 1-inch-wide brick pattern, begin at the nape by closing an open lacer and winding an endpaper-wrapped sub-section toward the base with medium tension. Secure the lacer by looping the right side of the lacer through the left side to create the Mizani Lacer Top Knot.
Place client under a hooded dryer until completely dry.
Emulsify Mizani Velvet Gloss in hands to add additional shine as you fi nger-style hair into place. Finish by spraying a light veil of Mizani Humidity Resistant Mist.

  • Colour Bunz

Created to replace foils and make balayage easy, these spongy rods are great for curl-styling as well. “As a styling aid, they can be used to create volume, French twists and chignons,” says creator Barbara Forgione. “As a roller, the options are endless, and they can be folded in half to create a larger diameter roller. They are best used on slightly damp hair when refreshing or creating curls, as wet hair takes longer to dry; a light mist of a spray gel before wrapping is perfect.”
Mist a section of hair with water or spray gel, or wet Colour Bunz, squeeze out excess water and use damp.
Wrap hair around Bunz in a spiral formation, and clip to hold. Continue wrapping around the head.
Mist with a spray gel, let dry, then remove Bunz and scrunch for bounce and separation.

  • Curlformers

Now with a drying hood to pro-vide overall indirect heat, these spiral rods shape beautiful curls and waves.

“Runways are the key to trends for the coming season,” says Debra Blake, founder of Curlformers and managing director of Shirley Valentine Salon in Manchester, England.
“This style is a classic look worn by many A-listers, and it’s great for all occasions—crossing over to more structured finish for the evening. It’s a simple solution to a frequent client request for a day-to-night look with boho waves that look effortlessly styled.

  1. Smooth the base by blast-drying with a bristle brush while leaving moisture at the mid lengths and ends.
  2. On each side of the parting, take six vertical sections including one going back to the crown.
  3. Apply a smoothing cream, mousse or anti-humectant to damp hair, and insert the long-barrel Curlformers from mid lengths to ends.
  4. Allow to air dry, or use the Curlformers Softhood attachment to achieve soft, bouncy curls within 30-40 minutes.
  5. Remove the Curlformers and allow curl to drop for 5-10 minutes before applying a finishing product; a light oil or serum is okay for the finish.

IN-SALON SMOOTHING

“New smoothing systems smooth hair without straightening it,” reports CosmoProf Brand Manager Jill Franklin. “The result is shortened dry time and reduced frizz, and the service lasts up to 90 days.”

  • Kenra Smooth

Designed for thick, coarse, unruly hair, this smoothing system reduces curl and frizz up to 99 percent without flattening texture. “It allows clients to embrace their curl but makes it manageable on an everyday basis to do so,” says Stephanie Ulmer, Kenra brand manager. “It’s cumulative; the more times the client receives the service, the more impact it has on the hair.”

  • Lasio Tropic

“The best way clients can reduce time and save hair from heat is to invest in a keratin treatment,” says Lasio artist Carmela Zampieri. “Lasio’s new Color Pro Keratin Treatment contains revolutionary polymers that shield hair and protect it from heat up to 450 degrees F.”

  • Matrix Opti.Effects Surf Wave

Smoother looks are in demand, says Matrix artist Robert Santana. “What is trending for textured hair is subtle, soft texture with an organic, touchable feel,” he notes. The Matrix team created this look with Opti.Effects Style Wave.

  1. Part hair and divide the front from the back with an ear-to-ear parting.
  2. Taking horizontal sub-sections and using large flexi-rods, wrap hair starting at the ends up to the mid-lengths. Secure rods by bending. Note: The closer you wrap the rods to the scalp, the higher the waves will start. Continue wrapping until all sections are completed.
  3. Gently mix Opti.Effects Activator with waving lotion and swirl gently. Unscrew the cap to release any gases, screw cap back on and snip applicator tip. Apply, process accordingly and, when complete, rinse with lukewarm water for 5 minutes. Towel-blot each rod to remove excess moisture.
  4. Apply Wave Customizer to all rods and process for 5 minutes. Do not rinse.
  5. Apply Neutralizer and process for 5 minutes.
  6. Unwrap rods, re-saturate and work in for 1 minute. Rinse with lukewarm water for 5 minutes.
  7. Spray in Matrix Total Results Moisture Cure 2-Phase Treatment on damp hair to detangle and prevent frizz. Apply Total Results Super Defrizzer Gel for added definition, and dry hair using a diffuser. Spray Total Results Amplify Flexible Hold Hair Spray to finish the look.

Haircuts for Curly Hair: Movement, Dimension, and Layers…Oh My!

by CurlStylist on Thursday, March 27th, 2014

haircuts for curly hair

With over 20 years of experience in the professional curly industry, senior stylist Leslie Ellen Abbate has seen trends come and go, especially being located on the popular, upscale 5th Avenue in New York City. Her love of the modern woman’s hair and beauty has taken her far in her career, and clients appreciate it. Leslie Ellen doesn’t only consider herself a stylist, but rather an enhancer of dramatic style and lifestyle changes.

CurlStylist: Introduce yourself.

Leslie Ellen Abbate: I am so passionate about what I do. My focus is to work with the natural beauty of your hair to achieve your desired look. I love and specialize in hair makeovers, which can dramatically change your style. My goal is to make you look stylish and feel beautiful. Every client is so special to me. I would love to show you how hair color and highlights would add dimension to your look.

CurlStylist: How did you enter the curly salon industry?

Leslie Ellen Abbate: I am a curly girl! For years I was saddened by one unfortunate haircut after another. I knew there had to be a better way. I have always been particularly fascinated by the beauty and versatility of curls. Because of these reasons, I have dedicated my styling techniques to fit the individual needs of those with curly hair.

CurlStylist: What inspires you throughout the day?
Leslie Ellen Abbate: I feel blessed and inspired by the love of God everyday. I am humbled and in awe that I can to do what I love and be used as a vessel.
CurlStylist: What are your favorite curly hair cuts or styles?
Leslie Ellen Abbate: My favorite thing to enhance a curly girl is to add some movement and dimension. This is can be achieved buy adding some layers and a bayalage. Curly hair should always have some sort of layering. I love to give some movement and life, back  to the hair. Without layering, it can be flat and triangular. As you elevate and layer the hair, it creates movement and frames the face.

CurlStylist: What are some hair trends you’re seeing in NY?
Leslie Ellen Abbate: Bayalage has been around for a while but has really been taken the spotlight lately. It is a way of highlighting the hair without foils. It is a more natural dimensional look, great to hug the curls and add dimension without it being too light or obvious that you added some lightness.

CurlStylist: What is one thing you wish every curly man or woman knew about their hair?

Leslie Ellen Abbate: Do not disturb the curls. The curls have their families they belong with and once separated they will frizz.

CurlStylist: Where is your shop located and how can we schedule an appointment?
Leslie Ellen Abbate: I am currently renting a space at Capelli D’Oro, a bright, airy salon overlooking the buzz of 5th Avenue, in the Flatiron district, at 123 5th Avenue, New York City. Call me directly for an appointment at 718-926-4050. You will enjoy the ambiance of the salon, with its great welcoming energy.

Essential Tips for Hair Growth

by CurlStylist on Tuesday, March 18th, 2014

Michelle O’Connor is the L’Oreal Mizani designer and Artistic Regional Leader of JCP Salons. She shares tips on hair growth from a professional standpoint– and how to address your client’s concerns next time they ask the daunting question, “Why isn’t my hair growing?”
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As a stylist & educator & creative director for a major salon chain, I’m been on more than one occasion been posed with that question has always been considered an elusive conquest amongst the highly textured set . Why doesn’t my hair grow?
This false illusion that curly to excessively curly women experience first hand is the shrunken halo of hair that appears like it’s never growing, or moving beyond a certain point.Misconception……..or is it ? We all know that curly hair is dry hair. Why you ask ? Well, we all produce natural oil from our scalps, however due to the nature of curls or coils twisting & turning around & around, sometimes even zig zagging, the oil just can’t hold on for the ride. As a result of this, the mid-shaft & ends never receive that natural goodness, leading to dry parched hair. This often times leads to split ends, which later results in breakage. This is what usually draws the conclusion that hair isn’t growing. let’s just put this fact out there. Everyone’s hair grows! Whatever growth happened is usually negated by the breaking at the ends, therefore the hair will not pass that treasured landmark we have on our bodies, affectionately known as the chin , shoulders & oh yeah the Rocky Balboa of landmarks…..#brastraplength!
HELP YOU SAY! I can certainly enlighten you. Here is my 2 cents, if you will. I really want you to pay attention to to what I’m about to lay on you. You’ll wonder where I’ve been all your life. All jokes aside, let’s get to the root of things (no pun, seriously) . We’ll call this the Michelle’s hair growth boot camp essentials.

1. Use shampoos without sulfates. Sulfates dry the hair out leading to even more dryness & you know what I told you about that!
2. Don’t wash excessively. Remember we are in desperate need of moisture. Let’s stick to no more that 2-3 times a week. I highly recommend a co-wash or conditioning wash. This is basically a conditioner with cleansing properties.
3. Deep condition at least once a week. A hooded dryer or a warm towel wrapped around the head will help the conditioner to penetrate the hair deeper. Think about warm water when washing your face. It opens the pores right? Well warmth will open the cuticles in the hair. Get it? Oh yeah, whine your at it , a scalp massage wouldn’t hurt either. It’ll increase the blood flow.
4. Get a protein treatment around once a month, more than that if necessary. This helps restore the strength to the hair. When we color, flat iron , blow dry & do anything that decreases the strength, we have to put back in what we’ve depleted. Kinda like when we go in our savings account. I won’t tell.
5. Use a protective covering over your hair, like a satin bonnet. I know that you’re giving me the side eye right now, but just hear me out. You can also get your sexy on and make it a satin pillow case. You see standard cotton pillow cases absorb moisture out of the hair. Satin will not do that. The hair will slide around on satin & keep all your due diligence intact. Make satin your hair’s new BFF.
6. Moisture, moisture moisture ! That’s my nod to the Brady bunch. Every day before you walk out of the house, grace your tresses with a moisturizing hair dress or essential oil. Steer clear of silicones, petrolatum & mineral oil. You want penetrating oils, not substances that sit on top of your hair.
7. limit your use of heat, and on those occasions, do not forget to use a thermal protector. This includes blow dryers & irons, not hooded dryers or warm towel which are essential to deep conditioning. Daily heat use can contribute to heat damage. Heat damage= poor elasticity. Poor elasticity= weak hair . Weak hair= breakage.
8. Last but not least, get your hair trimmed regularly! YES, don’t wine about it. It’s necessary. Each hair strand is growing at a different interval. There are three stages of hair growth. Anagen (the growth phase) approximately 85% of all hairs are in the growing phase at any one time. This stage can last from 2-6 years. Then there is Catagen (the transitional phase). This stage lasts for about two weeks & the hair follicle shrinks to about 1/6 of its normal  length. Lastly there is Telogen (the resting phase). 10-15% of hairs are in this phase. During this time of 5-6 weeks the hair doesn’t grow, but it stays attached to the follicle. At the end of Telogen the hair follicle re-enters the Anagen phase. If the old hair has not already shed, the new hair pushes the old one out and the growth cycle starts all over again. Sorry I had to get all scientific on you, but I just wanted you to understand that trimming the hair is essential, because at any stage, the thousands of stands of hair on your head are going through different phases. The more uniform you keep those ends the stronger your hair will be. It’s like when you see a person with long hair & only 3 strands of it are long . One wrong move with a hairbrush & it’s a wrap! Don’t do it! . Don’t be that girl! In the hair world, there is strength in numbers.

In closing I have one thing to chant …..Rocky, Rocky, Rocky!

Curl Talk: Top Curly and Natural Hair Terms

by CurlStylist on Monday, March 4th, 2013

Curlies will relax in your chair when they feel they’re being understood! Learn the language with these texture terms.

2a, 2b, 2c, 3a, 3b, 3c, 4a, 4b, 4c: Hair type classification system

2nd day hair: Hair that looks good enough the day after styling that it can just be misted with water or have a little product added try to revive and refresh its style

Baggy: A plastic shopping bag or shower cap to cover the hair overnight after moisturizing  it

Big chop: Cutting off all your chemically treated hair

Braid-n-curl: To braid the hair and roll the ends on rods or flexis

Canopy: The top layer of hair, which is exposed to the elements and most prone to frizzing

CG: Curly Girl Method for taking care of curly hair as described by author Lorraine Massey in the book Curly Girl

Clarify: Remove build-up from the hair

Clumping: The process of gathering strands of hair together to form bigger, chunkier curls

Co-Wash: Using conditioner rather than shampoo to wash the hair

Crunch: The stiff texture left by some gels when they dry

DT or DC: Deep Treatment or Deep Conditioner that is applied to the hair for an extended period of time, along with a heat source to aid penetration

EO: Essential Oil

Holy Grail: Products that are “tried and true”

No-poo: A curly who co-washes and shuns cones and other heavy or oily products that require shampooing to remove

Pineapple: Hair gathered into a loose ponytail at the top of the head to protect curls while sleeping on a satin pillowcase in order to have great 2nd day hair by simply removing the pony and shaking out the preserved curls

Plopping: Drying the hair with a T-shirt, terrycloth towel or paper towel to drastically reduce drying time

Pre-pooing: Applying a treatment prior to shampooing consisting of oils and/or conditioners, with a heat source to aid penetration

Product junkie: A client who buys any and all hair care products, forever on a mission to find the next best formula

Sealing: A method of keeping moisture in the hair, specifically on the ends, that follows application of a water-based moisturizer with a butter or oil

Shrinkage: Shortening of length due to curl tightness

Slip: Describes a product’s degree of slipperiness and effectiveness in detangling; the more slip, the better the product will coat the hair to aid in detangling

SLS: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, a harsh ingredient in some shampoos that curlies try to avoid

TNC (Twist-n-curl): To twist the hair and roll the ends on rods or flexis

Transitioning: The period of time since the client’s last relaxer

TWA: Teeny Weeny Afro

Twist out: Twisting two strands before air drying or sitting under a dryer, and then separating the twists and styling

Wash and go: Styling the hair by co-washing adding a gel or cream and drying with a diffuser or letting the hair air-dry

Read the digital version of Texture!

10 Mistakes Stylists Make When Cutting Curlies

by CurlStylist on Monday, March 4th, 2013

When we asked curly clients for their horror cut-and-blow dry stories, we got an earful!

1. Thinned the hair/used a razor.

2. Gave a blunt cut.

3. Didn’t use a diffuser.

4. Ran fingers through the hair during the blow dry.

5. Dried the head upside down.

6. Cut the hair wet.

7. Cut too much; didn’t consider how much curl takes away from length.

8. Combed the hair while wet.

9. Used a small round brush to blow dry.

10. Used no product.

Now you know what NOT to do, use the education and suggestions in this issue and other texture education to focus on all the positive things you can do to be a curl expert and total beauty resource for your clients!

Read the digital version of Texture!

Fit and Beautiful

by CurlStylist on Monday, March 4th, 2013

With studies showing that many curlies shun fitness in order to make sure sweat never dampens their hair style, U.S. Surgeon General Regina Benjamin has made a public plea to women to put their health before their hair. Must this be an either/or? Help your naturally textured clients keep their coif and exercise, too!

Carry products that guard against humidity, refresh the curl and maintain the hair’s health under even stressful conditions. Suggest a “kurly kit” for the gym bag, to include:

-A refresher to mist and cut the gym odor.

-Soft ponytail holders that won’t pull the hair.

-Updated-or retro!- sweat bands.

-A dry shampoo for an easy cleansing solution.

-A curl booster in a mist bottle for scrunch-and-go convenience.

-Travel sizes of the essentials. If she has time for a shower, she’ll need her texture-specific shampoo, conditioner and stylers.

Read the digital version of Texture!

Innovation, Creativity on Display in Long Beach

by Michelle Breyer on Friday, February 1st, 2013

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Long Beach, Calif. –

More than five years ago, inventor Nick Johnson was watching all the excitement over the keratin boom. Stylists, including his wife, were excited by the potential to offer their clients an easy way to smooth their hair, and the technique also provided huge revenue potential.

But Johnson also saw the downside. Stylists and their clients often were irritated by the fumes created when the hot flat iron was applied to the keratin formula.

“My wife said ‘You have to invent something,’” Johnson said of his wife Marzia Johnson, who owns the Marzia Salon in San Francisco, Calif. “So I spent two weeks in my workshop inventing a device.”

The result is the Izunami Fume Iron, a device that extracts fumes such as formaldehyde gas, odors, and VOC’s by suctioning the vapors directly through the flat iron into an air purification system.

“I believe this product provides stylists and their clients with peace of mind,” Johnson says.

Right: Izunami fume iron, Left: ISSE

Right: Izunami fume iron, Left: ISSE attendee

Right: Izunami fume iron, Left: ISSE attendee

Stylists got their first look at the Izunami Fume Iron at the Professional Beauty Association’s International Salon & Spa Expo in Long Beach the last weekend in January.

Creativity and innovation were on display throughout the ISSE show, which kicks off the hair show season. Whether it was watching top talents like Nick Arrojo and Martin Parsons show off their cutting and styling skills or looking at some of the newest product developments, stylists had plenty to inspire them.

For those stylists specializing in texture, there were a number of new product introductions, including Yuko’s Anti-Frizz, a gentler version of its straightening product designed to tame frizz rather than eliminate curl. Other standouts include Amika’s new Straight Up Straightening Balm and Haute Mess Texture Gel; Erayba’s HydraKer Keratin & Argan Oil Therapy Line and Neuma Beauty’s NeuSmooth line.

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Right: ISSE attendee, Left: InStyler straightening curls

ISSE Long Beach always has a diverse exhibitor base, and 2013 was no exception. Known as the launch pad for new beauty products and services, ISSE Long Beach 2013 featured amore than 400 beauty brands ranging such industry leaders as Rusk and Farouk Systems to hot brands like Macadamia Natural Oil and Moroccan Natural Oil.

Keratin treatments continued to be a major focus for many companies, although the number of companies has dwindled due to competition and calls for safer products.

If ISSE is a barometer of what 2013 holds for stylists and salons, there is reason for optimism. Many brands said sales were up noticeably from last year.

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