Archive for the ‘Coloring’ Category
Stylist Jason Leo Hurst on West Coast Hair Trends
by CurlStylist on Tuesday, March 4th, 2014
Jason Leo Hurst of Dej Salon in Sherman Oaks, CA is a veteran stylist with 16 years experience in the hair industry. Being less than a thirty minute drive from Los Angeles, Jason has seen it all when it comes to hair and beauty. But before being well known on the west coast for his hair artistry, Jason actually kicked off his career in Soho, NYC at the Devachan Salon. The founders of DevaCurl helped Jason mold and perfect his craft, and before he knew it, he was in California practicing his passion. I recently chatted with him to pick his brain about the latest and greatest in the west coast curly community.
CurlStylist: Where do you find daily inspiration?
Jason Leo Hurst: I love helping curly girls that are desperately seeking solutions. I constantly hear things like “I’ve tried every product” and “I cannot find anyone who understands my hair.”
CS: What are your favorite curly hair cuts or styles to perform on clients?
JLH: I love big hair! My favorites are long, layered, and full. I also enjoy cutting angular bobs with an edge.
CS: Which hair products do you love to use?
JLH: I love DevaCurl’s NoPoo. It’s simplicity and performance transforms dry textured hair while preserving hair color like no other! Elita makes a hair mask that is also great. I use it solely as a leave-in styling aid in the dryer. It truly performs. It has just the right amount of emollients to provide shine and weight to control frizz! Having only one hair product for my clients to use is truly life changing for them!
CS: What are some hair trends you are seeing a lot of nowadays?
JLH: Balayage hair color and beach waves!
CS: Finally, what is one thing you wish every curly man or woman knew about their hair?
JLH: I want them to know that it CAN be easy!
If you are in the Sherman Oaks area, you may book an appointment with Jason at Dej Salon on the website, www.dejsalon.com. Or, contact the salon by phone at (818) 981-4440.
Innovation, Creativity on Display in Long Beach
by Michelle Breyer on Friday, February 1st, 2013
Long Beach, Calif. –
More than five years ago, inventor Nick Johnson was watching all the excitement over the keratin boom. Stylists, including his wife, were excited by the potential to offer their clients an easy way to smooth their hair, and the technique also provided huge revenue potential.
But Johnson also saw the downside. Stylists and their clients often were irritated by the fumes created when the hot flat iron was applied to the keratin formula.
“My wife said ‘You have to invent something,’” Johnson said of his wife Marzia Johnson, who owns the Marzia Salon in San Francisco, Calif. “So I spent two weeks in my workshop inventing a device.”
The result is the Izunami Fume Iron, a device that extracts fumes such as formaldehyde gas, odors, and VOC’s by suctioning the vapors directly through the flat iron into an air purification system.
“I believe this product provides stylists and their clients with peace of mind,” Johnson says.
Right: Izunami fume iron, Left: ISSE attendee
Right: Izunami fume iron, Left: ISSE attendee
Stylists got their first look at the Izunami Fume Iron at the Professional Beauty Association’s International Salon & Spa Expo in Long Beach the last weekend in January.
Creativity and innovation were on display throughout the ISSE show, which kicks off the hair show season. Whether it was watching top talents like Nick Arrojo and Martin Parsons show off their cutting and styling skills or looking at some of the newest product developments, stylists had plenty to inspire them.
For those stylists specializing in texture, there were a number of new product introductions, including Yuko’s Anti-Frizz, a gentler version of its straightening product designed to tame frizz rather than eliminate curl. Other standouts include Amika’s new Straight Up Straightening Balm and Haute Mess Texture Gel; Erayba’s HydraKer Keratin & Argan Oil Therapy Line and Neuma Beauty’s NeuSmooth line.
Right: ISSE attendee, Left: InStyler straightening curls
ISSE Long Beach always has a diverse exhibitor base, and 2013 was no exception. Known as the launch pad for new beauty products and services, ISSE Long Beach 2013 featured amore than 400 beauty brands ranging such industry leaders as Rusk and Farouk Systems to hot brands like Macadamia Natural Oil and Moroccan Natural Oil.
Keratin treatments continued to be a major focus for many companies, although the number of companies has dwindled due to competition and calls for safer products.
If ISSE is a barometer of what 2013 holds for stylists and salons, there is reason for optimism. Many brands said sales were up noticeably from last year.
Fall 2012 Hair Color Trends
by Amanda Starghill on Friday, August 24th, 2012
One reason naturals embrace their curls is for their love of versality. If your clients want to keep up with the trends without compromising their tresses, celebrity stylist Kiyah Wright has fabulous color techniques for extensions.
Not only does Kiyah Wright reign supreme as color queen, she’s styled the crowns of Kerry Washington, Chaka Khan and Tyra Banks and many other celebrities. She has also been the stylist behind the scenes of the Daytime Emmy Awards, MTV Awards and the Grammys.
This Clairol Professional Celebrity Colorist took the crowd by storm as she lead a seminar on fall 2012 color trends at the Bronner Bros International Hair Show. Below are her tips that will help you acheive ombre highlights, vibrant red color and chalking on wavy, curly and coils extensions for your clients.
To achieve these striking looks, which may be a far departure from any natural hues, hair extensions are the best route to protect the integrity of the hair.
Chalking is an easy and fun way for curly clients to experiment with bright hues! You can bleach the extensions to the lightest blonde using a Clairol Professional Over 40 Volume Developer on the sections you want to place color.
Once you have bleached the extensions and blow-dried the hair, dampen those sections and roll sidewalk chalk in the desired hue up and down the hair. The color will transfer easily and won’t stain the hair. This is a great weekend look for clients that they can wash out for the work week.
2. Vibrant Reds
To obtain bright reds a la Rihanna, put a semi-permanent hair color such as Clairol Professional Jazzing in Red Hot into a bowl, cover it with a hair cap and heat it up in the microwave for about thirty seconds. The heat will help to create a super vibrant color.
Red in extension hair fades quickly, so advise your clients to return for weekly touch-ups, or if they are up to it, to try doing them in the shower. Mix Jazzing in Red Hot shampoo (a 1:1 ratio) to use when they come in for their weekly touchups.
To achieve the ever popular ombre look seen on A-listers such as Drew Barrymore and Ciara, you can use Clairol Professional BW2 Powder Lightener to bleach the extensions.
The lightener stops working after approximately 30 to 40 minutes, so if you rinse it out after 40 minutes and see an ashy hue, repeat the process.
Using extensions not only functions as a great way for clients to experiment with color, but it also preserves their health of their hair in the process. Let your clients know that this is a great way to enhance or change up their look with color and protect their tresses so they can opt for extensions and go for that vivacious red color they’ve been dying to try.
Top 6 Summer Hair Color Trends
by Trash Talk with Anna Craig on Tuesday, June 19th, 2012
Summer has just begun and we are already sizzling with hot hair styles this year. We are all so busy traveling, working, going here, there and everywhere, but we still need to look good. Here are some hair color trends to look out for during the hot summer days.
Sometimes called “he art of hair painting,” balayage is highlighting without foils and it gives you more of a sun-kissed, natural look. You can go longer between appointments and you do not get the streaky effect that comes with using foils. This technique is great for curly hair; it brings out the definition of each curl. If you are looking for a more dramatic and light look, this technique is not for you.
First of all, what is the ombre? This color style consists of dark roots and gradually lightened ends with the Balayage (hair painting) technique, giving a very sun-kissed look. This style can also be done very drastically for a more dramatic result. The ombre is great for any hair length or texture and it is very easy to maintain because you can go longer in between appointments. This look started with more of a caramel or blonde tip but now clients are requested different colored ends like reds and punk colors, which brings us to the next look.
The dip dye is a variation of the ombre. It consists of the dark root and the lightened ends, but the ends are also colored in a “punk” color. Try to achieve the watercolor affect for a subtler look or, if you’re just experimenting, the chalking affect for a temporary approach. This has quickly become all the rage with celebrities.
Everywhere you look now women are showing up with fun colors in their hair; it has definitely gone mainstream. Pinks, blues, purples, greens…you name it, we will wear it! Put a little or a lot in your hair, make it subtle or make it pop. The school districts do not usually allow the kids to wear it during the school year, so kids are coming into the salon like crazy to get it done for the summer.
Reds have definitely been big this year; our salon even ran out of copper one week because the demand was so high. Go bold and do a bright copper all over or keep it simple and add a few copper streaks to your highlights. Whatever you choose, the copper color is sure to brighten up your look and style. My favorite look is allover chocolate brown with a copper highlight. The look pops and is still natural with a hint of brightness.
There is a huge request right now for the Pamela Anderson Bleach Blonde look. This bold and bright look requires a little more maintenance; you should be in the salon about every four weeks to keep it perfect. The root needs to be bleached to perfection to make sure there is no brassiness left in the hair and you need to use a purple shampoo to maintain the perfect level of violet. This look is for that client who can never get their highlight heavy enough or just wants that perfect pale blonde.
Dip-Dying and Mixing Color
by CurlStylist on Wednesday, June 13th, 2012
By: Jennifer Kenny, The Curl Girl
As a professional colorist, catering to curly clients, I IMPLORE them not to use box color. Here are a few things I tell them about why box color is usually the devil…
1. Heavier dye loads in some boxes intended to help cover resistant gray can create a very dark — and dull — result on previously colored hair. When applying color to your own hair, the chances that you will be able to neatly apply it on only the new growth are slim. A color designed to open the cuticle layer of your hair and deposit a heavy dose of color molecules is not what you want on hair that has already been processed in that manner. That is, unless you’re trying to channel you inner Wednesday Addams or Billy Bob era, pre-Brad Angelina.
2. Other hair problems are often caused by box color that clients don’t even attribute to their at home fix. Hair can be very dry, have a tinsel like feel that is caused by metallic salts or other harsh ingredients, or have intensified effects from sun or chlorine. Hair will tend to have a matte appearance with little shine or dimension.
We all know curly hair is already fighting an uphill battle to retain its natural moisture. Home hair color can offset the efforts of curlies devoted to maintaining their curls by using quality styling products. When box color creates too dark results/unpredicted/undesirable results the process required to lighten the hair is ALWAYS going to A) Damage the hair further, or B) require intense deep treatments that help restore the hair/prevent breakage, make it softer and more manageable and add shine. This is FOR SURE going to cost more than having it done in the salon. Whisper the following phrase aloud: “It doesn’t end up saving you money.”
When I’m creating a formula for one of my clients, I rarely use just one color. When mixing up anything from a vibrant, editoral copper to a natural looking “Kardashian” brunette, there is much thought and personalization involved in creating a color formula for each specific head — it’s nearly impossible to get that kind of result from a drugstore box.
I will always warn my clients about using box color, but with respect, acknowledging that neither time nor money grows on trees. This season’s runway hit real life trend — Ombre — makes it easy for me to offer some clients a hair color option that can provide them a beautiful and professional result while allowing them to stretch time between visits. Roots — this season’s IT color. Well, not really, but kind of. Ombre is actually a graduation of color, from dark to light and is the current “I want THAT hair” request that stylists are getting from their clients. I first fell in love with this look when I saw it on Drew Barrymore, and she’s worn it as a rooty rocker style and as a soft dip-dyed look of sumptuous caramel brown melting to butterscotch blonde.
You can start with a base color that is close to your natural color, or choose to keep your natural color and just color your mid-lengths and ends (more like the Sarah Jessica Parker look).
Wondering if you can pull of this look with not only wavy hair, but shorter, too? Miley Cyrus has (ahem) the best of both worlds, with this easy yet fashion forward ombre bob.
Gray Hair Means Green
by Trash Talk with Anna Craig on Wednesday, June 13th, 2012
Long gone are the days of roller sets but the champagne blondes and the caramel browns are here to stay. Years ago when I got out of beauty school, a friend told me to go work by the local university to get all the cool college students as my clients. But there is no money in 19 to 22 year olds. I wanted their mothers and their mother’s mothers, the clients with gray hair. My clients’ ages are a broad spectrum, but a huge percentage are Baby Boomers. They have a consistent income, they want to cover their gray and they need to look polished and professional constantly. Having a client who only comes in once or twice a year when they stumble upon money or when their parents help out does not build up your clientele. You want a client that comes in every 3 or 4 weeks to keep their look maintained.
When I have a client that is starting to get more gray, I know that they will be making an investment in their appearance. I suggest that they come in every 3 or 4 weeks for maintenance. The first appointment will be to get a Halo Highlight (5 to 6 foils), a root-touch up and a haircut. The next time I see them, 3 or 4 weeks later, I will just do a root-touch up. This keeps the client on a schedule; they never have to worry about their gray showing and your books will be full. I also suggest that they lighten their hair a bit to help make the line of demarcation a little more subtle. Once your client realizes that you have a plan for them and their looks, they will be yours forever. Most of my clients like this book for a year or two at a time — they want to know that they are on my books every three weeks so their gray is covered. They are the most reliable clients because they do not want to be caught with “horrible” gray roots. Always talk to them about vacations and other occasions they might have coming up to make sure their appointments are aligned — their hair should always look good!
Making sure that your clients are always pre-booked and are coming in more often will fill up your books and your wallet. If you let your clients leave and say, “Call me,” there is a chance that they will never come back. Always set out a plan for your clients, their hair and the future of their look. Gray hair might be bad for your clients, but it is always good for you, because you will definitely be seeing that client more often. My rule of thumb for my clients with more than 30% gray: always use 20vol, always leave the color on for 45 minutes and always use at least half Neutral in any formula for optimal gray coverage. This will guarantee full gray coverage for perfect results.
ABS 2012: Innovations in Color from Rusk
by Cassadie on Friday, March 9th, 2012
Love the high gloss shine you can achieve with lighting in an editorial photo shoot? Rusk platform artist and Eduction Team member Angela Greenland demonstrated a new technique called a Shine Line from their 2012 Rebel Chic Collection. The Shine Line adds either Bold Color Contrast or a Subtle Tonal Change to the round of the head where light normally hits, adding the appearance of shuttered dimension within the haircut and the illusion of scintillating luminosity in color. This technique offers a simple way to enhance 2a-2c texture with the bold level 7 coppers and level 6.66 reds trending this season both on on the Rusk mainstage and the ABS show floor.
To achieve this look, smudge a thin line of bleach around the curvature of the head right where the light hits.
1. Using Deepshine Conditioning Cream Haircolor / Equal parts of 9.13 Very Light Beige + 9.01 Very Light Ash Blonde + the appropriate Deepshine Shine Enhancing Developer process 35 minutes
2. Take a panel in the round to the head ( with this model the front fringe area - Pre lighten to yellow stage with Deepshine White + 20 Volume Deepshine Shine Enhancing Developer
3. Rinse and Shampoo with Deepshine Hydrating Shampoo, towel dry until just damp
4. Tone with Deepshine Demi / 7.44CC Intense Copper Blonde and Deepshine Shine Enhancing Balancing Lotion for up to 20 minutes
5. Rinse, Shampoo, Condition with Deepshine Hydrating Shampoo and Conditioner
6. Style using one of Rusk Designer Collection Products
Enter to Win 2-Night NYC TIGI Color Training Giveaway!
by CurlStylist on Thursday, March 1st, 2012
One lucky CurlStylist will win a two night stay in New York for a 1×1 color training session with TIGI’s American Technical Director, Richy Kandasamy, using the copyright ©oulor line, a new innovation for infinite color creativity.
Enter to BE that lucky stylist!
Make Money & Get Creative with TIGI copyright©olour
by Advertorial on Tuesday, February 14th, 2012
Business basics for a salon are easy: market to the right customer and then keep that customer happy with good stylists and products. Done and done. But the financial basics behind a successful salon can be fleeting.
After all, when you finally get the clients you want, you want to make sure that you keep them happy. Often, that means expensive products and low turn-around which equals no profit. Running a business isn’t easy, especially one that is as client-focused as salons. Of course, if you stay up on the trends and are smart about what you buy, what you stock, what you use and who you hire, the pay off can be big for both the client and YOU (shocker!).
Cashing in on Color
To help on the color front, TIGI is introducing its new copyright©olour, a fully intermixable collection of shades individually crafted to use alone, mix and match or layer and blend to create your own personal coloring palette. Get this: because of the limitless color options due to the intermixability, there are fewer skus to stock and more colors to offer. Insert cash register sound here.
Of course, the product doesn’t just save you space and money, it allows you and your stylists to get creative and give your clients exactly what they want. You will no longer be caged by rules and shade options, and you can now create custom shades for clients and ensure 100 percent predictable results. Think it is too good to be true? Well, with a line that allows you to mix permanent tint with demi-permanent, demi-permanent with a 40 volume activator, high lift tint with permanent tint or permanent tint with an 8.5 volume activator, the sky is the limit on where your color creations can take you and your clients.
Because we know that numbers speak volumes next to words, we asked TIGI to pull some for us after we asked what the benefits for this would be for every colorist.
• Increased consistent coverage by 2x
• Enhanced color by 26 percent
• Improved wearability by 16 percent
• Improved combability by 5x
• Improved conditioning by 21 percent
• Percent alkalinity vs. competitors: 12 percent to 32 percent
So, back to the basics, TIGI copyright©olour is a pioneering innovation for infinite color creativity. Having the ability to intermix all TIGI copyright©olour crème emulsion products has resulted in a highly compact range being created, yet still with the capacity to create limitless color creations.
Overall, you lower your stock and increase your profit while allowing your stylists to express their creativity and provide your clients a coloring experience that no other salon can match. Now that’s a business basic.
TIGI’s Richy Kandasamy’s Hair Colorspiration
by Advertorial on Tuesday, February 14th, 2012
When you are born for something, it isn’t wise to fight it. And Richy Kandasamy, American Technical Director at TIGI Academy in New York, knows that better than anyone. Born in the exotic Seychelles islands, Kandasamy has a rich international background that provides a unique and experimental foundation for his distinctive and imaginative use of color and technique.
His use of color is inspired by his homeland, thus the tropics and a polyethnic culture play a huge part in his creations. Leaving the Seychelles to master color technique, Kandasamy landed in Florence, where his career flourished over eight years as he rose from the salon to the Technical Director of the first TIGI Academy in Italy.
Continuing on his success track, Kandasamy’s role evoloved with the company and led him up to the launch of TIGI Colour, where his contributions played an important role in the development and implementation of the product line throughout Europe.
In 2008, Kandasamy’s professional journey took him to the United Kingdom to focus and assist in the on-going development of the TIGI Colour line and the company’s educational programs. In his new role as TIGI® UK Technical Director, he continued to teach at the TIGI Academy in Italy and throughout Europe — implementing and presenting color technique and courses, as well as actively contributing in photo shoots, collection videos and TIGI Global Shows with Anthony Mascolo.
After being transferred to the TIGI Academy in New York, his new role as the American Technical Director allows him to continually push the boundaries of color technique and creativity.
For Kandasamy, his passion for art took him on a whirlwind ride around the world, leading him to the top of his industry.
“For me inspiration is everywhere,” Kandasamy says. “Whether it’s urban or exotic, street or haute couture — it’s how you interpret and process all those influences that turns it into art.”
Win a two night stay and 1 on 1 color lesson with Richy in NYC! Enter here!
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