Texture! Behind the Cover
by Modern Salon on Saturday, September 1st, 2012
Our Cover Style for this issue’s Texture! was created by Kansas City stylist and 2012 NAHA finalist Rusty Phillips. It’s the beautiful result of Phillips’ participation in Modern Salon Media’s Artist Session, a workshop designed to guide salon professionals through the process of freelance styling as they develop their photo session skills and connect with like minded salon professionals. The owner of Belle Epoque Salon, Phillips has not only taken the class several times himself, but has sent staff to experience the session.
Since launching seven years ago, Belle Epoque has twice been recognized as one of SALON TODAY’s 200 Best, and Elle magazine has highlighted the business as one of America’s 100 Best Salons for the past three years. A stylist for more than 30 years, Phillips has forged a bond of trust with clients through his genuine desire and ability to and make a difference in their lives as he customizes each client’s visit. Although Phillips is the consummate styling pro, he has enjoyed each Artist Session as a haven where professionals learn from each other.
“I’ve learned to really go for it!” he says. “I held back a bit at my first session and, although pleased with my results, I knew I could do something more exciting. For this last session, I really pumped up the volume and texture. It was an unforgettable experience!”
It was the model’s own hair, along with a tool tucked into the Artist Session Goody Bag, that inspired Philips to create the look seen on the cover.
“My model had massively thick wavy hair, the kind of hair every woman dreams about,” he explains. “I wanted to create over-the-top volume and curl, and in the Goody Bag was a micro-crimper. This gave me an idea to create a distressed curl that was somewhat frizzy and lived in.’” After prepping the hair with styling cream, Phillips dry-pincurled all of the hair and pressed each one with the crimper. He brushed out the set, then shampooed the hair with a dry shampoo to produce even more texture and volume. His finished look along with the Artist Session Creative Team resulted in a fabulous look for this issue of Texture.
The Texture! cover look was shot at a recent MODERN SALON Artist Session. Join editorial styling expert Maggie Mulhern with NAHA-nominated David Maderich and Roberto Ligresti for the next Artist Session workshop in New York City, October 2-3, and learn how to get your work published in magazines. Go to Modern Salon’s Artist Session to sign up.
2012 NAHA Texture Stylist of the Year
by Modern Salon on Saturday, September 1st, 2012
The North American Hairstyling Awards represents the pinnacle of achievement in all categories of hairdressing, texture included. Jasmine Gibbs of The Cutting Edge Salon in Brooklyn, New York was named Texture Stylist of the Year at the 2012 NAHA ceremony held July 22 in Las Vegas. Her exquisite entries won the day, but she had some very worth competition. Here are Gibbs’ winning looks along with entries from the other NAHA 2012 Texture finalists: Liz Nevin, Liz Nevin Hairstyling; Amy Freudenberg, Maka Beauty Systems; Jose Julian Macias Navarro, Leonel Alta Peluqueria; and Richie Roman, R Rated Hair.
Liz Nevin: Liz Nevin Hairstyling
Jasmine Gibbs: The Cutting Edge
Amy Freudenberg: Maka Beauty Systems
Jose Macias and Julian Navarro: Leonel Alta Peluqueria
Richie Roman: R Rated Hair
10 Things Your Clients Never Want to Hear
by Modern Salon on Saturday, September 1st, 2012
When your new client is a curly, peek behind her back. Are her fingers crossed? That’s because she’s hoping and wishing for a stylist who “gets” her. Be that stylist! To encourage that new client to become your permanent client, let her know that you love all hair textures and can offer her many options. Stay positive! You can be sure she’s already heard all of the negative comments:
1. “It’s so curly! Can I fix it for you?”
2. “I bet you wish you had straight hair.”
3. “This is going to take forever .”
4. “Your hair must be a nightmare for you to deal with on a daily basis.”
5. “Do you want me to use the thinning shears or the razor?”
6. “What race are you?”
7. “I had no idea your hair would shrink like that!”
8. “This is the only hair cut you can wear, because your hair is curly.”
9. “We don’t do ethnic hair.”
Texture Watch: Oprah, Wow Wands and Textured Men
by Modern Salon on Saturday, September 1st, 2012
Picture Perfect Volume
“For the first time ever, Oprah’s appearing on the September cover of O without blow-drying or straightening her hair,” announced the Oprah empire on the website of O Magazine, in which each issue features its founder as the covergirl. “She says that wearing her hair naturally as she often does on weekends and on vacation makes her feel unencumbered.”
Not new to the makeover method of reenergizing your self-image, Oprah says that all makeovers are not created equal. The best, according to her statement, are those that resonate with how you already think and feel about yourself. “The only way to real transformation is through the mind,” says the queen of self-actualization.
While Oprah’s ‘do is au naturale except for, from our eye, an expertly blended product cocktail another September magazine cover display of afro-esque hair cannot boast the same. Lady Gaga lands atop this month’s Vogue brightened by a platinum halo of hair designed by celeb stylist Grace Coddington. While the haute-texture look suits her, this is one time the Lady cannot claim she was “born this way.”
In the old days, the last thing a curly-haired client needed in her tool drawer was a curling iron. New days are here! Specialty curling irons represent the hottest trend for curlies looking for an easy way to shape coil chaos into orderly fabulosity.
Among the new irons hitting the marketplace is the Bio Ionic StyleWinder with a rotating barrel that eliminates the need to turn the iron over and over. Instead, a “clamp, wrap and roll” maneuver ends wrist strain while creating perfect curls, waves and spirals.
Another recent entry into the category, the CHI Interchangeable 3 in 1 Digital Orbit, offers a clamp-free barrel to permit curls to wrap and then glide off with no snagging or styling interruption.
The Textured Man
Height is happening! With male manes growing fuller this season, texturizing products and cutting techniques are a good bet for impressing your guy clients. Show them how to mix hair product cocktails to customize their look with anything from a light touch to a mighty mountain of texture.
New research indicates that curly clients are loving their texture and hungry to keep the conversation going.
Did you know that 65 percent of people with wavy hair straighten it at least sometimes? But that key word wavy means just what it says. Be careful not to apply wavy-haired habits to those of kinky-curly clients, more than half of whom choose to go “natural” all of the time.
“You cannot look at all textured clients as one category,” cautions Michelle Breyer, president of TextureMediaInc. “There are different needs and desires depending on their texture, because not all texture is created equal! If you want to be a well-rounded texture stylist, you must understand that there’s more than one type of texture client.”
Recent research also indicates that texture clients are continually looking for new options. Nearly half of curly clients who are happy with their product of choice still have an eye out for the next great development. That nonstop interest in their texture keeps the conversation open for you to introduce them to new products and tools even after you’ve “solved” their hair issues. The two major reasons texture clients believe that people are more accepting of their curls today vs. five years ago are that stylists and products are increasingly addressing their needs, and that people are more appreciative of their own natural beauty.
Perhaps the best news from the market research department is that a small minority (only two percent) of textured clients say they wish they had straight hair. Today’s clients either fully embrace their curl or admit to good days and bad days. As you become more fully educated about texture and skilled at styling it, you’ll help make every day a day that your curly clients are grateful for the beautiful texture that nature provided.
For training in curly hairdressing as well as more information on smoothing techniques, mark your calendar for March 3-5, 2013, when America’s Beauty Show will feature exciting main stage presentations of Texture Live!, sponsored by MODERN SALON and TextureMediaInc.com. Watch demonstrations of the latest products and most advanced techniques to arm yourself with expertise to become the go-to professional for textured clients.
Curls and Water Do Mix!
On a Saturday in June during Premiere Orlando, hundreds of curlies and stylists from all over the Southeast flocked to the pool at the Omni Hotel and Resort in Orlando for an afternoon of pool-tastic, curl-centric fun at the 2nd Annual Curly Pool Party. The formal pool was transformed into a colorful and luxuriant afternoon soiree filled with swimming, styling demonstrations and pina ”curladas.”
Sponsored by TextureMedia and Modern Salon Media, the curl celebration showcased such brands as Ouidad and Amika, which each set up shop in their own private cabanas to teach people how to work with their clients’ texture and their own!
“It’s so hard to deal with my curls in this humidity,” lamented one attendee who drove in from Tampa. “I never know how to protect them when I go swimming. But after coming here, I’m ready for summer! Bring on the water and the heat!”
Learn how to manage unruly locks with these texture-specific classes that will keep you up-to- date on techniques to tame tame and control your clients’ curls for months.
LOOK AND LEARN
This two-hour program is conducted by a Simply Smooth texture manager who will demonstrate the Simply Smooth keratin and maintenance line on a mannequin. Attendees observe the process of application, drying and curing with Simply Smooth Keratin (original), Xtend Color Lock and Touch of Keratin, with opportunity for Q & A.
Attendees will learn the art of texture management and how to increase revenue with all of Simply Smooth’s keratin products. The company also offers three-hour sessions to achieve Simply Smooth certification.
Where: CosmoProf and Armstrong-McCall stores in U.S. cities.
When: Various Mondays. Contact your sales rep.
CHI ENVIRO AMERICAN SMOOTHING CLASS
As a safe alternative to traditional, harsh straightening treatments, the CHI Enviro American Smoothing Treatment infuses hair with amino acids, proteins, silk and pearl. The process improves the condition, shine and smoothness of unruly hair. Results typically last up to four months.
Where: Armstrong-McCall, 1540 Keller Pkwy., Keller, Texas.
When: September 9, 9am-5pm
Purchase of some specially marked CHI items earns salons the opportunity to hold this class free as an in-salon class.
The GK Experience covers GK Hair’s Oil Hair Color and The Best Juvexin Treatment & Hair Taming Systems. Stay on in Florida and attend the two-day GK Hair Collection Cutting class the following week.
Where: Dania Beach, Florida at the Sheraton (GK Experience) and at Hyatt Place (Collection Cutting)
When: September 17, 9am-1pm (GK Experience), and September 24-25, 10am-5pm (Collection Cutting)
Be the first to hear the buzz about texture on the runway! Follow ModernSalon.com and NaturallyCurly.com for complete curly coverage of New York Fashion Week the second week of September, previewing next spring’s hottest runway looks.
Hair Straightening Products: The Next Generation
by Modern Salon on Thursday, September 1st, 2011
Struggling with challenges ranging from frizz to unruly hair, curly clients have searched far and wide for ways to manage their manes. But in the not-so-distant past, when they came into the salon asking to get their hair straightened, they really only had two chemical service options: a traditional relaxer or a Japanese straightening treatment.
Then, almost overnight, “keratin” became the buzzword of the beauty industry, shifting the k-word context from “protein and conditioning” to smoothing and straightening. This new anti-wave of hair straightening products, known for giving clients with textured hair a straight, sleek look that lasted for months, became the new trend in texture management. This generated a boom of curly, wavy and even straight-haired clients running into salons to reap the “life-changing,” frizz-fighting benefits, even as questions and concerns about the process were being raised.
A Star Category is Born
With the downward-turning economy and traditional appointment stretching affecting salons, timing was good for companies to introduce a new revenue-generating service built upon strong consumer demand and dramatic results. Thus, dozens of new brands popped up, all selling their own variation of keratin straightening treatments.
This first generation of “Brazilian” keratin treatments after the country where the service originated — were formulated to last three to four months and generated an average ticket of $400.
Manufacturers of these new products and their R&D scientists proclaimed that replacing keratin in the hair could restructure and recondition hair fibers, refilling the holes and gaps in the hair shaft caused by chemical services and environmental factors, and that the process could even straighten hair when the formula was “sealed in” with a flat iron heated to 450 degrees.
Straight Evolves into “Smooth”
Alongside the big consumer buzz about keratin straightening came a wave of safety questions and concerns from consumers, salon professionals, associations and competitive brands alike. Most were focused on the levels of formaldehyde released when the solution was processed by the high-temp irons.
In response, the category has evolved significantly and competitively in 2011, morphing into smoothing treatments. Some notable changes:
• One brand may now offer a menu of different formulas for different hair types or “strength” of results.
• Education, both of salon professionals and consumers, has become key for serious players in the segment.
• Some brands have dropped “Brazilian” altogether from the name or description of the service.
• Interest has grown in alternatives to keratin treatments.
• Semi-permanent formulations designed to last only 4-6 weeks are growing in popularity. They can be overlapped with each application, and reach optimal potential after 2-4 applications.
• Many brands now focus on marketing low to no-formaldyde (or any –aldehyde) smoothing treatment alternatives, with minimal irritating odors or fumes.
• Even companies that elect not to get into the chemical service realm of smoothing are launching retail, take-home smoothing products, some utilizing keratin and some positioned to create a similar, albeit short-term, effect (up to 72 hours, for instance).
At Cosmoprof North America in Las Vegas, many of the new generation of smoothing treatments were on display, with marketing and education teams showing off their latest innovations. From Long Beach to Orlando, brands showed off their safety certificates to stylists at hair shows.
Texture: Male Celebrities Who Rock Curly Locks
by Modern Salon on Saturday, January 29th, 2011
Curls aren’t just for girls. Many male celebrities—from Hollywood heartthrobs to NFL stars—are sporting textured looks these days and setting trends for the rest of the male population.
With hair like singer Josh Groban’s, it’s really important to not touch it until it’s completely dry, says celebrity stylist George Papanikolas. Only use a light amount of product like Joico’s Curl Definer Crème, and run it through wet hair. Once the hair is completely dry, lightly scrunch it to eliminate any stiffness. The end result will be soft, defined waves without frizz.
Texture: The Season of Texture!
by Modern Salon on Wednesday, September 1st, 2010
By all appearances, fall 2010 will go down in fashion history as “the season of texture.” Dozens of notable fashion designers have eschewed straight strands, embracing instead all manner of curls, coils, crimps, waves and teased clouds of hair on their catwalks.
On the West Coast, style setters are also advancing the texture trend. Nearly every red carpet is adorned with sexy, romantic textures, made popular by stars like Taylor Swift, Miley Cyrus, Kate Hudson, Charlize Theron and Beyonce.
“Clients today are requesting anything but flat hair,” says Lina Shamoun, a 2010 North American Hairstyling Awards Texture Finalist from Kitchener, Ontario.
And regardless of whether clients are starting out with natural curl, wave or pin-straight strands, everyone has texture options this season!
Natural Curl: Embrace and Refine
“Curly hair is coming into its own,” says Titi Branch, co-owner of Miss Jessie’s Products and Salon in New York. “Twenty years ago, we wouldn’t even be talking about curly hair because people straightened their curls.
“Now, women want to embrace their natural, healthy curl. Michelle Obama even wore curls to a state dinner recently— for her to do so really validates the beauty of the look.”
But curly can also be high maintenance, admits Branch, which is why the current trend is a smoother, looser curl pattern.
“This allows a woman to keep her curl,” she explains, “but refine it.” At Miss Jessie’s, this elongated curl is achieved with the salon’s proprietary “Silkener” service. The technique involves a sodium hydroxide relaxer and a method of manipulation that stretches, yet doesn’t straighten, the hair.
“The result,” says Branch, “is hair that behaves like natural hair when it’s wet—before it dries and shrinks. It’s wash and go—it cuts styling time in half.” To support natural curls, Branch recommends Miss Jessie’s Curly Pudding treatment—a perennial favorite that combines macadamia and almond oil, aloe and shea butter for shine, plumping and moisture.
Curl definition is also imperative for Shawna Parvin’s curly clients, and the most modern approach, says the Aquage educator, NAHA 2009 Texture Winner and 2010 Hairstylist of the Year nominee, is to mix it up—random curl sizes, directions and even amounts of definition. “I’m telling my clients to start with a gel on damp hair,” she says, and comb it through scalp to ends. “Then wind sections of varying sizes, in every direction, so they look like little snakes. Don’t touch the hair until it’s completely dry, then move it around and even pull a few random pieces apart so there’s some fuzz mixed in with the curl. That’s what keeps curl from looking like the ’80s.”
Options are important for women with any texture, and naturally curly clients will always want blowouts for occasions when their hair must look polished, says Dickey, owner of New York’s Hair Rules Salon and hair products company. What makes blowouts look fresh this season, he says, is a voluminous, soft, Mad Men-inspired look, with lots of flattering movement around the face.
“Bone straight doesn’t work for most women,” he comments. “Waves and curls look softer on anyone—it’s ‘instant youth.’”
Making Waves—Keep it Raw
When it comes to creating curls and waves, the perfectly formed curls are evolving into a rougher, more raw-edged texture, says Chad Seale of Salt Lake City, another 2010 NAHA Texture finalist.
“Waves will be more vertical, looser, less constructed than we’ve seen in past seasons,” agrees Darby Shields, Associate Artistic Director of ISO International.
When it comes to these vertical waves, there’s also a new silhouette worth noting, adds Seale, namely, a flatter crown with more volume through the midlengths and ends. Seale loves this texture and shape on shorter-length bobs—actress Charlize Theron has been seen sporting the look. To permanently create this casual texture on tightly curly hair, Shields steers clients to the ISO Maintamer.
“This formula gives stylists plenty of control,” she explains. “Leave it on for five minutes, and it eliminates frizz but maintains the curl pattern. Leave it on for 30 minutes and it straightens more completely.”
To produce loose, ropey, “Gisele” texture with a thermal iron, Shields first mists strands with a combination of ISO Color Preserve Thermal Shield Spray and Daily Shape Working Spray, then wraps sections of hair vertically around the outside of a curling iron, simultaneously twisting each section onto itself like a rope. Once the hair cools completely, she gently releases the twists, revealing “a spiral, vertical wave with lots of internal torque.”
The flat iron is another excellent tool for creating this type of natural-looking body and texture. Many of today’s irons feature beveled plates, which give them the versatility to straighten and shape hair. One of Lina Shamoun’s favorite strategies is to divide hair into thin, one-inch sections, place the flatiron at the root, wind the section once around the iron and draw the tool through to the ends.
“When you release it, the hair will fall into a soft, flowing wave,” she explains.
The beach trend—textured, separated, sea-tossed strands—has generated a number of beach spray products that are great for supporting these looks or for use as stand-alone body boosters.
Color for Curl
With celebrities like Sarah Jessica Parker and Jennifer Aniston leading the way, the hottest hair color trend of the moment is the graduated “I spent last month on the beach and now it’s growing out” effect. Characterized by deeper roots and lighter midshafts and ends, it’s a deliberate technique to approximate “vacation regrowth.” The look is perfect for the twists and turns of textured hair, as long as the technique is done correctly.
Seale believes baliage is the best strategy—this freehand hair-painting method allows the colorist to place the tint exactly where the sun would kiss each strand, namely, on the rounds and fullest parts of each curl and in an unstructured fashion.
“So if your client wears her hair curly,” Seale advises, “don’t blow her hair straight and do a color weave. You’ll get six different colors on one curl and that doesn’t work.”
Additionally, says Seale, opt for high-lift permanent colors when baliaging curls, rather than bleach. “Bleach tends to swell the hair and cause it to become dryer,” he believes.
This hair type is already susceptible to dryness, he adds, so it’s better to use hair color that tends to impart less damage. Shields agrees that baliage is the best way to achieve the dark-to-light look, and advises stylists to work with fairly large sections. “Apply your color to each section randomly,” she suggests. “And for your application pattern, let the trajectory of the waves guide you—dropping off of the crown. Try some ‘peek-a-boo’ foils under the surface, too.
“All of this will create a purposeful, grown-out look, which clients today love since it’s chic and it allows them to stretch their retouching dollars!”
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