5 Things To Learn From Texture Influencers

by Modern Salon on Monday, September 22nd, 2014

whitney-napyural85
  1. Engage Your Audience: Audience engagement is like superior customer service. A successful blogger knows the importance of connecting with followers and always letting them know when they’re appreciated. Although time consuming, replying to emails, comments and messages is essential to building a relationship with your clients, and encourages them to turn to you for texture advice and product recommendations.

  2. Solve Problems: Clients want content that delivers a benefit like how to use a product, demonstrates how to create a celebrity-inspired look, or executes a new industry trend. You don’t need a professional studio to deliver powerful imagery and share valuable information. You can create and post your own professional beauty advice without worrying about professional lighting! Make it personal and be sure to always mention your salon name, location and how to book a texture consultation.

  3. Stay Relevant: It’s important that you not only produce tips and how-tos to share on your or your salon’s social media outlets or during a consultation, but that you stay relevant to your followers by providing current information. They’ll look to you as being “in the know” and will think of you for special occasion styles, visit your site or pages for what’s trending, and listen when you recommend a new style, an updated finish and product recommendations to help them get the look.

  4. Collaborate: Collaborating with popular YouTube personalities, celebrities and brands is a way to instantly introduce yourself to an entirely new network of people. Simply commenting and introducing yourself and your salon-based solutions is a great way to start. Maintaining an authentic voice is crucial and will allow you to increase your own following organically. Keep the emphasis on what you know and experience as a salon professional. Share more about the techniques you use, less about specific brand preferences. Promote yourself as an authority.

  5. Promote Yourself: As you increase your texture expertise, be sure you are telling the world about it! If you decide to post YouTube videos or texture tips on a blog, use other forms of social media to get your content out there. Share teasers of your latest YouTube video on Instagram or a sneak peak of a new texture product on Facebook. Even sharing your favorite tips from other texture sources can help position you as a resource for your clients. Just remember to add your professional voice to explain why you are sharing it, and to include a call to action to come for an appointment, consultation, or personal product demo and recommendation.

INFLUENCERS

Francheska - HEYFRANHEY heyfranhey.com

Francheska of HeyFranHey started her Tumblr after being diagnosed with a health condition. It was her journey to become a healthier person inside and out that propelled her to speak about beauty from a holistic approach. After healing her body through nutrition, fitness and natural/organic products, she wanted to share her knowledge with those willing to listen.

In addition to making her posts relatable and easy to incorporate in everyday life, Francheska attributes her success to speaking from an honest place and solving a problem. Her advice for people interested in YouTubing is to find out what’s missing in the marketplace and determining: how you can contribute to that open space.

Jenell Stewart - KINKYCURLYCOILYME kinkycurlycoilyme.com

After a big chopping in March 2010, Jenell Stewart of KinkyCurlyCoilyMe decided to embrace her natural hair. With no friends or family members who were natural, Stewart found joy in blogging about her journey and created KinkyCurlyCoilyMe as a way to track her progress and share it with others.

The actual name of the website is a derivative of the textures that appear in her own hair. Within the first two years of blogging, Jenell transitioned her blog into a natural haircare site for women in need of hair education and support. Stewart has been featured in Essence and on BlackEnterprise.com, VibeVixen.com, SoloDovePR, CurvyMagazine.com, Essence.com, BlackHairMedia.com, RollingOut.com, JuicyMagOnline.com, NewsDay.com, Examiner.com, TribeCalledCurl.com and CurlyNikki.com. Stewart has also contributed to NaturallyCurly.com.

Whitney - NAPTURAL85.com youtube.com/user/naptural85

Whitney, known as Naptural85 on YouTube, is a graphic designer, vlogger and blogger. Whitney started her YouTube channel in August 2009 with an upload of her “Natural Hair Journey”—her transition from relaxed to natural hair—which was intended to thank the YouTubers who’d given her the inspiration to go natural. But people told her that they were inspired by her story and encouraged her to upload more. The rest is history! Five years later, Whitney is still sharing her journey and has expanded her channel with daily vlogging videos that chronicle her life as a wife and new mom.

Alison - MODERN MRS. HUXTABLE modernmrshuxtable.com

In 2013, Alison got her start on YouTube with her channel Modern Mrs. Huxtable, aimed at advocating for positive female role models as well as educating women on the secrets to healthy, long hair. She is dedicated to sharing her results with others and using her background as a university instructor to inform and educate other women on how to reach their personal hair goals. Alison spearheads an initiative to share female empowerment messages and encourage positive, well-rounded depictions of women like that of the iconic Clair Huxtable from The Cosby Show. Alison focuses on uplifting women in areas such as self-esteem development, finding purpose and creating sound value systems.

Gina - HAIRSPIRATION (UK) hairspiration.blogspot.com

Gina of Hairspiration has been blogging since 2008. She blogs about natural hair, beauty and lifestyle. She is an advocate of green brands and small business and is currently in the process of “cleaning up” her makeup bag. Gina has been featured on numerous websites, including Essence.com, Ebony.com, Fashion Bomb Daily, Style Pantry, BGLH and Ebony Glam, as well as in Pride, Marie Claire, Grazia, Jones and Blackhair. Based in the UK, Gina has a background in fine arts and has spent the past nine years working at Aveda and other high-end hair salons, where she has gained useful knowledge in hair care, beauty and trends. By day, Gina is currently working as a freelance PR consultant and sometimes columnist.

Sarah - WATERLILY716 youtube.com/user/waterlily716

Sarah started her channel to provide education about curly hair basics and to help others learn how to care for and love their natural curls. A-soon-to-be teacher and self-proclaimed hair junkie, Sarah realized several years ago that there weren’t a lot of girls with her looser-curl hair type making videos or sharing advice. From that concept, her channel evolved into what it is today.

Jessica Lewis - MAHOGANYCURLS mahoganycurlsofficial.com

Jessica started vlogging on YouTube in March 2009, sharing her natural hair journey with women around the world in hopes of inspiring them to love and embrace their hair. Jessica has been featured on LA Talk Live radio, CurlyNikki.com, NaturallyCurly.com and many other social media platforms and is currently a natural hair blogger for Essence.com. Over the years, Jessica has drawn the attention of many women worldwide.

Shanti and Antoinette - AROUND THE WAY CURLS aroundthewaycurls.com

Shanti and Atoinette are the best-friend duo behind Around the Way Curls. The two created a community for women to connect, encourage and inspire one another. Around the Way Curls is an online publication that infuses pop culture and issues of women’s interest with an emphasis on the beauty, originality and spirit of naturally kinky, curly hair. With hair as the catalyst, Shanti and Antoinette work to redefine beauty and to recondition women not only to embrace their natural state of being but to value their individual uniqueness and overall worth.

Nora - SHALIMARCAT youtube.com/user/shalimarcat

A medical student and model with a passion for beauty, fitness and health, Nora of Shalimarcat made the decision to embrace her natural texture six years ago after two years of relaxing, blow drying and straightening. Nora was inspired to create her first video when she entered a giveaway on Naptural85’s channel, at the time her favorite YouTuber. Filming was so much fun that she thought, why not create her own channel for wavy hair? At the time, the majority of the channels were geared toward women with tighter texture patterns.

Drink Up!

by Modern Salon on Thursday, September 11th, 2014

The answer to curly hair woes probably won’t come from one magic product. Luckily there’s cocktailing, where you can play mixologist to achieve the exact results your client wants. Check out these texture experts’ custom hair brews.


EXPERT: Dianne Nola, Curly Hair Specialist, Nola Studio, San Francisco

CHALLENGE: Reviving distressed curly hair

INGREDIENTS: DevaCurl Heaven in Hair, Styling Cream, Mirror Curls and DevaCurl Light, Ultra or Arc Gel

“When working with extremely dry, gray or colored hair, I like to use Heaven In Hair as a leave-in, then cocktail Styling Cream and Mirror Curls to add to it,” Nola says. “This leaves the hair in an extremely hydrated state. Unlike most serums in the industry, Mirror Curls contains no silicones and truly does add shine to the fi nished locks. Then I add one of the gels (Light, Ultra, or Arc) to the mix or apply next. Not only is the actual weight of the cocktail crucial in creating length, but the various techniques to hold those coils down.”


EXPERT: Robert Santana, Matrix artist

CHALLENGE: Moisturizing dehydrated coils

INGREDIENTS: Matrix Oil Wonders Indian Amla Oil, Amazonian Murumuru and Egyptian Hibiscus Oil

“Select your appropriate oil based on the desired result for your client,” Santana says. “Oils can be used in many ways with di- erent benefi ts. Indian Amla Oil strengthens weakened hair inside and out, Amazonian Murumuru de-volumizes rebellious hair for infi nite smoothness and control, and Egyptian Hibiscus Oil shields color treated hair for restored vibrancy with shine. Utilize oil at every step for the ultimate care experience, shampoo, condition, treat, style and fi nish, blending as you go.”


EXPERT: Sara Smith, Stylist, Barbara Forgione Salon, Tampa, FL

CHALLENGE: Creating soft curls with shine

INGREDIENTS: Amika Leave In Cream, Straight Up Smoothing Balm and Curl Defining Cream

Start with two pumps of Amika Leave In Cream from midshaft to ends says Smith. Then apply one palm-press of oil. Palm pressing is when you press the opening of your oil container into the palm of your hand, she explains. The small amount of oil in the palm of your hand is the perfect amount. Next, mix together two pumps of Straight Up Smooth and two pumps of Curl Cream. Work through the hair and scrunch.


EXPERT: Stacy Hill, Owner, DyeVerCity Hair Salon, Martinez, GA CHALLENGE: Long-lasting hold

INGREDIENTS: Urbanbella No. 7 Non Lather Cleanser, Mop Top Conditioner, Mop Top Light Hold Gel and Obia Curl Moisture Cream

“I start with Urbanbella non-lather cleanser,” Hills says. “Urbanbella gently cleans my hair from all residue build up while giving me a cool sensation on my scalp. My conditioner of choice is Mop Top daily conditioner. It doubles as a leave in. When rinsing, you only rinse 80 percent out of the hair. For styling, I use Mop Top light hold gel coupled with Obia moisture cream. The key is don’t over use the products, a quarter/half dollar size goes a long way. The seaweed extracts in Mop Top and moisturizing oils in Obia keep my curls intact for up to 3-4 days.”

Real World, Real Curls

by Modern Salon on Wednesday, September 3rd, 2014

IN THE SALON INDUSTRY, there are two types of people— those who say they can do textured hair and the select group of stylists that specialize in texture hair. Cesar Ramirez, the newest Mizani celebrity stylist and our cover artist, is definitely a member of the latter. Having grown up amidst hairspray and rollers in his family’s small hair salon, the Puerto Rican curl guru knows his way around a diverse clientele base.

Ramirez has trained with some of the beauty industry’s top stylists, and his a-list looks have been featured on shows including Celebrity Apprentice, All About Aubrey, and Lala’s Full Court Life. He also offers his magic to a long list of celebrities (Beyoncé, Jennifer Hudson, Demi Lovato, Ciara, Adrienne Bailon and Rita Ora). But beyond Ramirez’s celebrity work, his unique, artistic approach has graced the runways at Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week and have adorned the pages of everything from Vogue and Harper’s Bazar to GQ and Latina Magazine.

With a following of more than 30,000 on Instagram alone (@cesar4styles), it comes as no surprise that the inspiration for this shoot came from social media. While researching, Ramirez found that the super-photoshopped hair images on Pinterest weren’t receiving a lot of attention. Instead, it was the shots of everyday clients and selfies of girls with beautiful hair that were trending. “We wanted to create a ‘real’ feel to the collection; that attracted consumers to see what Mizani can do,” Ramirez says. Mizani products were used on set at the shoot—including the recently released Fiberfyl treatment. “Fiberyfyl is a new strengthening treatment with breakthrough Filloxane technology; a strand-by-strand restorer that fills in weak area of the hair,” Ramirez says. “Traditionally, protein treatments are used for strength, which can result in the hair feeling hard or brittle. Fiberfyl maintains the hair’s pliability and softness.” Since models are constantly on set, the hair takes a beating, so using the Fiberfyl system set us up for success.” With New York City as his backdrop, Ramirez was able to successfully capture the understated cool that every curly girl craves. “Textured hair can be a challenge, but it can also be exciting when you realize the beautiful fabric that you are working with,” he says. “When you successfully achieve the perfect shape and style, it’s so fulfilling.”

Texture! Behind the Cover

by Modern Salon on Saturday, September 1st, 2012

Our Cover Style for this issue’s Texture! was created by Kansas City stylist and 2012 NAHA finalist Rusty Phillips. It’s the beautiful result of Phillips’ participation in Modern Salon Media’s Artist Session, a workshop designed to guide salon professionals through the process of freelance styling as they develop their photo session skills and connect with like minded salon professionals. The owner of Belle Epoque Salon, Phillips has not only taken the class several times himself, but has sent staff to experience the session.

Since launching seven years ago, Belle Epoque has twice been recognized as one of SALON TODAY’s 200 Best, and Elle magazine has highlighted the business as one of America’s 100 Best Salons for the past three years. A stylist for more than 30 years, Phillips has forged a bond of trust with clients through his genuine desire and ability to and make a difference in their lives as he customizes each client’s visit. Although Phillips is the consummate styling pro, he has enjoyed each Artist Session as a haven where professionals learn from each other.

“I’ve learned to really go for it!” he says. “I held back a bit at my first session and, although pleased with my results, I knew I could do something more exciting. For this last session, I really pumped up the volume and texture. It was an unforgettable experience!”

It was the model’s own hair, along with a tool tucked into the Artist Session Goody Bag, that inspired Philips to create the look seen on the cover.

“My model had massively thick wavy hair, the kind of hair every woman dreams about,” he explains. “I wanted to create over-the-top volume and curl, and in the Goody Bag was a micro-crimper. This gave me an idea to create a distressed curl that was somewhat frizzy and  lived in.’” After prepping the hair with styling cream, Phillips dry-pincurled all of the hair and pressed each one with the crimper. He brushed out the set, then shampooed the hair with a dry shampoo to produce even more texture and volume. His finished look along with the Artist Session Creative Team resulted in a fabulous look for this issue of Texture.

The Texture! cover look was shot at a recent MODERN SALON Artist Session. Join editorial styling expert Maggie Mulhern with NAHA-nominated David Maderich and Roberto Ligresti for the next Artist Session workshop in New York City, October 2-3, and learn how to get your work published in magazines. Go to Modern Salon’s Artist Session to sign up.

2012 NAHA Texture Stylist of the Year

by Modern Salon on Saturday, September 1st, 2012

The North American Hairstyling Awards represents the pinnacle of achievement in all categories of hairdressing, texture included. Jasmine Gibbs of The Cutting Edge Salon in Brooklyn, New York was named Texture Stylist of the Year at the 2012 NAHA ceremony held July 22 in Las Vegas. Her exquisite entries won the day, but she had some very worth competition. Here are Gibbs’ winning looks along with entries from the other NAHA 2012 Texture finalists: Liz Nevin, Liz Nevin Hairstyling; Amy Freudenberg, Maka Beauty Systems; Jose Julian Macias Navarro, Leonel Alta Peluqueria; and Richie Roman, R Rated Hair.

Liz Nevin: Liz Nevin Hairstyling

Jasmine Gibbs: The Cutting Edge

Amy Freudenberg: Maka Beauty Systems

Jose Macias and Julian Navarro: Leonel Alta Peluqueria

Richie Roman: R Rated Hair

10 Things Your Clients Never Want to Hear

by Modern Salon on Saturday, September 1st, 2012

When your new client is a curly, peek behind her back. Are her fingers crossed? That’s because she’s hoping and wishing for a stylist who “gets” her. Be that stylist! To encourage that new client to become your permanent client, let her know that you love all hair textures and can offer her many options. Stay positive! You can be sure she’s already heard all of the negative comments:

1. “It’s so curly! Can I fix it for you?”
2. “I bet you wish you had straight hair.”
3. “This is going to take forever .”
4. “Your hair must be a nightmare for you to deal with on a daily basis.”
5. “Do you want me to use the thinning shears or the razor?”
6. “What race are you?”
7. “I had no idea your hair would shrink like that!”
8. “This is the only hair cut you can wear, because your hair is curly.”
9. “We don’t do ethnic hair.”
10. “Uh-oh!”

Texture Watch: Oprah, Wow Wands and Textured Men

by Modern Salon on Saturday, September 1st, 2012

Picture Perfect Volume

“For the first time ever, Oprah’s appearing on the September cover of O without blow-drying or straightening her hair,” announced the Oprah empire on the website of O Magazine, in which each issue features its founder as the covergirl. “She says that wearing her hair naturally as she often does on weekends and on vacation makes her feel unencumbered.”

Not new to the makeover method of reenergizing your self-image, Oprah says that all makeovers are not created equal. The best, according to her statement, are those that resonate with how you already think and feel about yourself. “The only way to real transformation is through the mind,” says the queen of self-actualization.

While Oprah’s ‘do is au naturale except for, from our eye, an expertly blended product cocktail another September magazine cover display of afro-esque hair cannot boast the same. Lady Gaga lands atop this month’s Vogue brightened by a platinum halo of hair designed by celeb stylist Grace Coddington. While the haute-texture look suits her, this is one time the Lady cannot claim she was “born this way.”

Wow Wands

In the old days, the last thing a curly-haired client needed in her tool drawer was a curling iron. New days are here! Specialty curling irons represent the hottest trend for curlies looking for an easy way to shape coil chaos into orderly fabulosity.

Among the new irons hitting the marketplace is the Bio Ionic StyleWinder with a rotating barrel that eliminates the need to turn the iron over and over. Instead, a “clamp, wrap and roll” maneuver ends wrist strain while creating perfect curls, waves and spirals.

Another recent entry into the category, the CHI Interchangeable 3 in 1 Digital Orbit, offers a clamp-free barrel to permit curls to wrap and then glide off with no snagging or styling interruption.

The Textured Man

Height is happening! With male manes growing fuller this season, texturizing products and cutting techniques are a good bet for impressing your guy clients. Show them how to mix hair product cocktails to customize their look with anything from a light touch to a mighty mountain of texture.

Survey Says

New research indicates that curly clients are loving their texture and hungry to keep the conversation going.

Did you know that 65 percent of people with wavy hair straighten it at least sometimes? But that key word wavy means just what it says. Be careful not to apply wavy-haired habits to those of kinky-curly clients, more than half of whom choose to go “natural” all of the time.

“You cannot look at all textured clients as one category,” cautions Michelle Breyer, president of TextureMediaInc. “There are different needs and desires depending on their texture, because not all texture is created equal! If you want to be a well-rounded texture stylist, you must understand that there’s more than one type of texture client.”

Recent research also indicates that texture clients are continually looking for new options. Nearly half of curly clients who are happy with their product of choice still have an eye out for the next great development. That nonstop interest in their texture keeps the conversation open for you to introduce them to new products and tools even after you’ve “solved” their hair issues. The two major reasons texture clients believe that people are more accepting of their curls today vs. five years ago are that stylists and products are increasingly addressing their needs, and that people are more appreciative of their own natural beauty.

Perhaps the best news from the market research department is that a small minority (only two percent) of textured clients say they wish they had straight hair. Today’s clients either fully embrace their curl or admit to good days and bad days. As you become more fully educated about texture and skilled at styling it, you’ll help make every day a day that your curly clients are grateful for the beautiful texture that nature provided.

Texture Live!

For training in curly hairdressing as well as more information on smoothing techniques, mark your calendar for March 3-5, 2013, when America’s Beauty Show will feature exciting main stage presentations of Texture Live!, sponsored by MODERN SALON and TextureMediaInc.com. Watch demonstrations of the latest products and most advanced techniques to arm yourself with expertise to become the go-to professional for textured clients.

Curls and Water Do Mix!

On a Saturday in June during Premiere Orlando, hundreds of curlies and stylists from all over the Southeast flocked to the pool at the Omni Hotel and Resort in Orlando for an afternoon of pool-tastic, curl-centric fun at the 2nd Annual Curly Pool Party. The formal pool was transformed into a colorful and luxuriant afternoon soiree filled with swimming, styling demonstrations and pina ”curladas.”

Sponsored by TextureMedia and Modern Salon Media, the curl celebration showcased such brands as Ouidad and Amika, which each set up shop in their own private cabanas to teach people how to work with their clients’ texture and their own!

“It’s so hard to deal with my curls in this humidity,” lamented one attendee who drove in from Tampa. “I never know how to protect them when I go swimming. But after coming here, I’m ready for summer! Bring on the water and the heat!”

Education

Learn how to manage unruly locks with these texture-specific classes that will keep you up-to- date on techniques to tame tame and control your clients’ curls for months.

LOOK AND LEARN

This two-hour program is conducted by a Simply Smooth texture manager who will demonstrate the Simply Smooth keratin and maintenance line on a mannequin. Attendees observe the process of application, drying and curing with Simply Smooth Keratin (original), Xtend Color Lock and Touch of Keratin, with opportunity for Q & A.

Attendees will learn the art of texture management and how to increase revenue with all of Simply Smooth’s keratin products. The company also offers three-hour sessions to achieve Simply Smooth certification.

Where: CosmoProf and Armstrong-McCall stores in U.S. cities.

When: Various Mondays. Contact your sales rep.

CHI ENVIRO AMERICAN SMOOTHING CLASS

As a safe alternative to traditional, harsh straightening treatments, the CHI Enviro American Smoothing Treatment infuses hair with amino acids, proteins, silk and pearl. The process improves the condition, shine and smoothness of unruly hair. Results typically last up to four months.

Where: Armstrong-McCall, 1540 Keller Pkwy., Keller, Texas.

When: September 9, 9am-5pm

Purchase of some specially marked CHI items earns salons the opportunity to hold this class free as an in-salon class.

GK EXPERIENCE

The GK Experience covers GK Hair’s Oil Hair Color and The Best Juvexin Treatment & Hair Taming Systems. Stay on in Florida and attend the two-day GK Hair Collection Cutting class the following week.

Where: Dania Beach, Florida at the Sheraton (GK Experience) and at Hyatt Place (Collection Cutting)

When: September 17, 9am-1pm (GK Experience), and September 24-25, 10am-5pm (Collection Cutting)

Be the first to hear the buzz about texture on the runway! Follow ModernSalon.com and NaturallyCurly.com for complete curly coverage of New York Fashion Week the second week of September, previewing next spring’s hottest runway looks.

Hair Straightening Products: The Next Generation

by Modern Salon on Thursday, September 1st, 2011

Struggling with challenges ranging from frizz to unruly hair, curly clients have searched far and wide for ways to manage their manes. But in the not-so-distant past, when they came into the salon asking to get their hair straightened, they really only had two chemical service options: a traditional relaxer or a Japanese straightening treatment.

Then, almost overnight, “keratin” became the buzzword of the beauty industry, shifting the k-word context from “protein and conditioning” to smoothing and straightening. This new anti-wave of hair straightening products, known for giving clients with textured hair a straight, sleek look that lasted for months, became the new trend in texture management. This generated a boom of curly, wavy and even straight-haired clients running into salons to reap the “life-changing,” frizz-fighting benefits, even as questions and concerns about the process were being raised.

A Star Category is Born

With the downward-turning economy and traditional appointment stretching affecting salons, timing was good for companies to introduce a new revenue-generating service built upon strong consumer demand and dramatic results. Thus, dozens of new brands popped up, all selling their own variation of keratin straightening treatments.

This first generation of “Brazilian” keratin treatments after the country where the service originated — were formulated to last three to four months and generated an average ticket of $400.

Manufacturers of these new products and their R&D scientists proclaimed that replacing keratin in the hair could restructure and recondition hair fibers, refilling the holes and gaps in the hair shaft caused by chemical services and environmental factors, and that the process could even straighten hair when the formula was “sealed in” with a flat iron heated to 450 degrees.

Straight Evolves into “Smooth”

Alongside the big consumer buzz about keratin straightening came a wave of safety questions and concerns from consumers, salon professionals, associations and competitive brands alike. Most were focused on the levels of formaldehyde released when the solution was processed by the high-temp irons.

In response, the category has evolved significantly and competitively in 2011, morphing into smoothing treatments. Some notable changes:

• One brand may now offer a menu of different formulas for different hair types or “strength” of results.

• Education, both of salon professionals and consumers, has become key for serious players in the segment.

• Some brands have dropped “Brazilian” altogether from the name or description of the service.

• Interest has grown in alternatives to keratin treatments.

• Semi-permanent formulations designed to last only 4-6 weeks are growing in popularity. They can be overlapped with each application, and reach optimal potential after 2-4 applications.

• Many brands now focus on marketing low to no-formaldyde (or any –aldehyde) smoothing treatment alternatives, with minimal irritating odors or fumes.

• Even companies that elect not to get into the chemical service realm of smoothing are launching retail, take-home smoothing products, some utilizing keratin and some positioned to create a similar, albeit short-term, effect (up to 72 hours, for instance).

At Cosmoprof North America in Las Vegas, many of the new generation of smoothing treatments were on display, with marketing and education teams showing off their latest innovations. From Long Beach to Orlando, brands showed off their safety certificates to stylists at hair shows.

Texture: Male Celebrities Who Rock Curly Locks

by Modern Salon on Saturday, January 29th, 2011

Curls aren’t just for girls. Many male celebrities—from Hollywood heartthrobs to NFL stars—are sporting textured looks these days and setting trends for the rest of the male population.

Josh Groban

Josh Groban


With hair like singer Josh Groban’s, it’s really important to not touch it until it’s completely dry, says celebrity stylist George Papanikolas. Only use a light amount of product like Joico’s Curl Definer Crème, and run it through wet hair. Once the hair is completely dry, lightly scrunch it to eliminate any stiffness. The end result will be soft, defined waves without frizz.


Texture: The Season of Texture!

by Modern Salon on Wednesday, September 1st, 2010

Logo

Learn more about Texture!, a collaboration between CurlStylist, NaturallyCurly and Modern Salon

By all appearances, fall 2010 will go down in fashion history as “the season of texture.” Dozens of notable fashion designers have eschewed straight strands, embracing instead all manner of curls, coils, crimps, waves and teased clouds of hair on their catwalks.

Miley Cyrus

Miley Cyrus






On the West Coast, style setters are also advancing the texture trend. Nearly every red carpet is adorned with sexy, romantic textures, made popular by stars like Taylor Swift, Miley Cyrus, Kate Hudson, Charlize Theron and Beyonce.

“Clients today are requesting anything but flat hair,” says Lina Shamoun, a 2010 North American Hairstyling Awards Texture Finalist from Kitchener, Ontario.

And regardless of whether clients are starting out with natural curl, wave or pin-straight strands, everyone has texture options this season!

Natural Curl: Embrace and Refine

“Curly hair is coming into its own,” says Titi Branch, co-owner of Miss Jessie’s Products and Salon in New York. “Twenty years ago, we wouldn’t even be talking about curly hair because people straightened their curls.

Michelle Obama

Michelle Obama

“Now, women want to embrace their natural, healthy curl. Michelle Obama even wore curls to a state dinner recently— for her to do so really validates the beauty of the look.”

But curly can also be high maintenance, admits Branch, which is why the current trend is a smoother, looser curl pattern.

“This allows a woman to keep her curl,” she explains, “but refine it.” At Miss Jessie’s, this elongated curl is achieved with the salon’s proprietary “Silkener” service. The technique involves a sodium hydroxide relaxer and a method of manipulation that stretches, yet doesn’t straighten, the hair.

“The result,” says Branch, “is hair that behaves like natural hair when it’s wet—before it dries and shrinks. It’s wash and go—it cuts styling time in half.” To support natural curls, Branch recommends Miss Jessie’s Curly Pudding treatment—a perennial favorite that combines macadamia and almond oil, aloe and shea butter for shine, plumping and moisture.

Curl definition is also imperative for Shawna Parvin’s curly clients, and the most modern approach, says the Aquage educator, NAHA 2009 Texture Winner and 2010 Hairstylist of the Year nominee, is to mix it up—random curl sizes, directions and even amounts of definition. “I’m telling my clients to start with a gel on damp hair,” she says, and comb it through scalp to ends. “Then wind sections of varying sizes, in every direction, so they look like little snakes. Don’t touch the hair until it’s completely dry, then move it around and even pull a few random pieces apart so there’s some fuzz mixed in with the curl. That’s what keeps curl from looking like the ’80s.”

Options are important for women with any texture, and naturally curly clients will always want blowouts for occasions when their hair must look polished, says Dickey, owner of New York’s Hair Rules Salon and hair products company. What makes blowouts look fresh this season, he says, is a voluminous, soft, Mad Men-inspired look, with lots of flattering movement around the face.

“Bone straight doesn’t work for most women,” he comments. “Waves and curls look softer on anyone—it’s ‘instant youth.’”

Making Waves—Keep it Raw

When it comes to creating curls and waves, the perfectly formed curls are evolving into a rougher, more raw-edged texture, says Chad Seale of Salt Lake City, another 2010 NAHA Texture finalist.

“Waves will be more vertical, looser, less constructed than we’ve seen in past seasons,” agrees Darby Shields, Associate Artistic Director of ISO International.

Wavy Hair

When it comes to these vertical waves, there’s also a new silhouette worth noting, adds Seale, namely, a flatter crown with more volume through the midlengths and ends. Seale loves this texture and shape on shorter-length bobs—actress Charlize Theron has been seen sporting the look. To permanently create this casual texture on tightly curly hair, Shields steers clients to the ISO Maintamer.

“This formula gives stylists plenty of control,” she explains. “Leave it on for five minutes, and it eliminates frizz but maintains the curl pattern. Leave it on for 30 minutes and it straightens more completely.”

To produce loose, ropey, “Gisele” texture with a thermal iron, Shields first mists strands with a combination of ISO Color Preserve Thermal Shield Spray and Daily Shape Working Spray, then wraps sections of hair vertically around the outside of a curling iron, simultaneously twisting each section onto itself like a rope. Once the hair cools completely, she gently releases the twists, revealing “a spiral, vertical wave with lots of internal torque.”

The flat iron is another excellent tool for creating this type of natural-looking body and texture. Many of today’s irons feature beveled plates, which give them the versatility to straighten and shape hair. One of Lina Shamoun’s favorite strategies is to divide hair into thin, one-inch sections, place the flatiron at the root, wind the section once around the iron and draw the tool through to the ends.

“When you release it, the hair will fall into a soft, flowing wave,” she explains.

The beach trend—textured, separated, sea-tossed strands—has generated a number of beach spray products that are great for supporting these looks or for use as stand-alone body boosters.

Color for Curl

With celebrities like Sarah Jessica Parker and Jennifer Aniston leading the way, the hottest hair color trend of the moment is the graduated “I spent last month on the beach and now it’s growing out” effect. Characterized by deeper roots and lighter midshafts and ends, it’s a deliberate technique to approximate “vacation regrowth.” The look is perfect for the twists and turns of textured hair, as long as the technique is done correctly.

Seale believes baliage is the best strategy—this freehand hair-painting method allows the colorist to place the tint exactly where the sun would kiss each strand, namely, on the rounds and fullest parts of each curl and in an unstructured fashion.

“So if your client wears her hair curly,” Seale advises, “don’t blow her hair straight and do a color weave. You’ll get six different colors on one curl and that doesn’t work.”

Additionally, says Seale, opt for high-lift permanent colors when baliaging curls, rather than bleach. “Bleach tends to swell the hair and cause it to become dryer,” he believes.

This hair type is already susceptible to dryness, he adds, so it’s better to use hair color that tends to impart less damage. Shields agrees that baliage is the best way to achieve the dark-to-light look, and advises stylists to work with fairly large sections. “Apply your color to each section randomly,” she suggests. “And for your application pattern, let the trajectory of the waves guide you—dropping off of the crown. Try some ‘peek-a-boo’ foils under the surface, too.

“All of this will create a purposeful, grown-out look, which clients today love since it’s chic and it allows them to stretch their retouching dollars!”

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