Curls Rock Tranforms into Curlesque

by Michelle Breyer on Monday, March 1st, 2010

Tigi’s Curls Rock collection has long been a favorite among stylists who work with waves, curls and kinks.

But Tigi, never been a company to rest on its laurels, is always searching ways to improve its products. This month, the company unveils its Catwalk Curlesque collection, which improves and expands upon the successful Curls Rock line.

“We wanted to revamp the line, improving the products and taking other products that work (with texture) and adding them to the line,” says Carlos Cintron, Tigi’s creative education development director. “The things people loved about Catwalk Curls Rock are still there, but better.”

Designed by Tigi’s international creative director Anthony Mascolo and the Tigi International Creative Team, the Curlesque Curl Collection uses advanced marine biology ingredients—a fusion of kelp, algae, cucumber water, seaweed and sea fennel—to help enhance waves, curls and kinks. This unique combination of ingredients is called the Catwalk Aquacomplex.

“With the Curlesque Collection, we are giving hairdressers the tools to create perfectly formed curls on their clients, and at the same time giving them a retail range with great fragrances, amazing packaging and effective formulas,” Mascolo says.

The Curlesque collection is a part of the company’s strategy to relaunch its entire Catwalk line into different collections. Last year, Tigi introduced the Your Highness Volume collection. Curlesque is the second new collection to launch. Each new collection is divided into three categories that coincide with TIGI Catwalk’s suggested style building system: Prep It, Work It, and Perfect It.

The Curlesque Prep It products include Defining Shampoo, Hydrating Conditioner and Leave-In Conditioner. The Work It products include Curl Amplifier, Lightweight Mousse and Strong Mousse; and Defining Serum. Tigi recommends that the new Defining Serum, its Perfect It product, be added to all of products to enhance the results.

“This new range of curl products is going to give us a complete arsenal for styling, from the tightest curl to loose natural waves,” says Heath Grout, a member of Tigi’s international creative team.

The curl category is especially important to Tigi because. Curls Rock has been one of its most popular product lines, and more than 60 percent of the population has wavy, curly or kinky hair, Cintron says.

Too often, Cintron believes curly hair is misunderstood.

“You have to understand the type of texture it is—is it wavy, curly or kinky?” he says. “One size does not treat all. Each type must be treated differently. The right products and the right cut make all the difference.”

Cintron says the Curl Amplifier is his Holy Grail product when it comes to working with texture, and it has only gotten better with the relaunch with the addition of Tigi’s Aquacomplex.

“I can’t do without the amplifer,” he says. “It’s my No. 1 tool for working with curls because it doesn’t leave it crispy or crunchy. It joins everything together and seals the cuticle, leaving beautiful, shiny hair. It’s the same product, but better.”

Cintron provided Curlesque tips for every texture type.

Wavy

Cintron recommends putting Curlesque LIghtweight (for fine to medium hair) or Strong Mousse (for medium to coarse hair) into your hand and adding in some Curlesque Defining Serum. Apply it wet hair and comb through with a wide-toothed comb. Then diffuse it for extra volume and texture.

Curly

Cintron recommends using the Curlesque Leave-in Conditioner. Then, if you want to enhance the curl, he suggests using the Curl Amplifier mixed with a few drops of Defining Serum. Then diffuse it. For a looser curl, he says exclude the Amplifier from the mix.

Kinky

For kinkier textures, Cintron likes to mix the Leave-in Conditioner, Ampflier and the Defining Serum. That gives the hair shine and hydration to prevent it from looking dry. It also keeps the ringlets looking soft. He suggests letting kinkier hair types dry naturally because the hair can look unruly if overdried.

The timing is ideal for the launch of Curlesque, says Cintron. Super-straight looks have been replaced by voluptuous textured looks, he says.

“People don’t want to spend a lot of time on their hair,” he says. “They should enjoy their hair. They should work with their texture and have fun with it.”

Hot texture trends for the fall include longer, graduated curly bobs, longer shag shapes and long layers, with a “bit of disconnection.”

For longer hair, especially curly hair, if it’s too uniform, it can look too bushy,” he says. “I like to remove weight so it may be longer here and shorter there. It’s more appealing to the eye rather than looking round.”

No matter what the style or curl type, Curlesque provides the tools to help maximize the potential of waves, curls and kinks.

“Creatively, the new curl collection offers hairdressers endless possibilities to experiment with shape and texture to perfect hair with natural movement,” says Marco Iafrate, a member of Tigi’s international creative team. “The product range is the answer for hair with curl, from its wash and care to the styling and finishing.”

Cutting Curls

by Michelle Breyer on Thursday, February 4th, 2010

When it comes to working with curls, the options seem endless. In no area is that more apparent than cutting techniques, where a growing number of philosophies that are evolving as curl empowerment has taken hold – both in the chair as well as behind it.

We talked to some pioneering texture experts who have developed their own approaches to working with waves, curls and kinks. Their varied approaches illustrate the challenges and rewards of working with texture. When it comes to texture, there is no place for a one-size-fits-all approach.

Curl Expert: Ouidad “Queen of Curl,” a pioneer in the curly world who opened the world’s first salon 26 years ago devoted to curly hair

Cutting Technique: Carve-and-Slice method

Depending on the density of the hair, she slices – takes a little – or carves - takes a lot. You go to the depth of the curl, following the curvature of the curl and allowing the curls to puzzle into each.

You cut the hair in sections, shaking it to see the tightness and start of the wave pattern to see how it stacks. You either slice or carve so that the curls sit inside each other. You never cut closer than 3 inches to the scalp to prevent the hair from puffing out.

Ouidad always cuts curly hair when it’s wet.

“Curly hair doesn’t dry the same, so it’s very difficult to cut it dry. You need to know the curvature of the curl in its natural state,” Ouidad says.

Curl Expert: Shari Harbinger of Devachan Salon, trains and inspires both new and seasoned hairdressers interested in working with texture

Cutting Technique: Dry Cutting

When stylists at Devachan Salon prep for a curly cut, they know to trust their intuitive eye and their visual eye.

“You can’t really understand that if the hair is wet because you’re not seeing the hair as you wear it, in its natural form, which is dry,” says Shari Harbinger, who emphasizes that curls should be cut only when the hair is dry.

Before an appointment at Devachan, clients are asked to stop shampooing their curly locks one to two weeks before their cut, although daily conditioning is recommended. When they step into the stylist’s chair, clients are required to arrive with their hair dry and in its natural state, uncombed and without any products in it at all.

“We look at the face shape, the hair, the curl type, the hydration level, and all those factors will determine where we cut, and how much we cut,” Harbinger adds.

The only tools in a Devachan curly cut are scissors and the stylist’s hands — no combs or brushes.
“Combs aren’t necessary because you’re then stretching the curl out of its natural form, which defeats the whole purpose of cutting curly hair in its natural order,” she says.

Curl Expert: Jonathan Torch founder of the Toronto’s Curly Hair Institute

Cutting Technique: Jonathan Torch studies curly hair when it’s dry to look at the direction the hair grows, but he always cuts hair when it’s wet.

“That way I can see the grouping of the curls and the way the curls bounce,” Torch says. “We look at the individual curls and choose the size of the curl. In order to make a ringlet, the hair has to rotate 2.5 times, otherwise you get wings.”

Since every curly head has more than one curl pattern, Torch recommends against traditional layers for curly hair.

“Even layers do not work in curly hair,” Torch says. “We have developed a technique called curly layers, and it’s all about creating unevenness, breaking it up.”

If you’re looking for height, volume or bounce, Torch suggests telling your stylist exactly that.

“You have to change your terminology. If you want volume, say you want volume. Don’t say you want layers because you’re going to be upset with the result,” Torch warns.

Curl Expert: Christo Artistic Director of New York’s Christo Fifth Avenue Salon

Curl Technique: Christo has always believed curly hair should be cut wet.

“Curly hair, when you cut it dry, won’t have the freedom of style,” Christo says. “You may wear your hair curly 90 percent of the time, but maybe the other 10 percent, you want to wear your hair in glamorous waves or you want to blow it straight. I think you should have that option.”

Your textured mane should only be combed (wide-tooth comb only!) when it’s wet and then allowed to bounce back, according to Christo. “That way you can see how the curl is going to bounce, and then you cut accordingly,” he explains. “If the hair is dry, how is it going to bounce? It doesn’t.”

Since there may be many textures on one curly head, Christo may choose to texturize tresses using regular scissors, channel scissors or a double-blade razor on wavy, coarse hair.

“Some people have wavy hair on the bottom, while it’s curly on the top, so you can texturize the bottom in long angle layers, but you have to know to know what you’re doing,” Christo says. “You want the waves to lock into each other — not become bushy and frizzy.”

After the hair is cut and then dried with a diffuser, Christo may make a few touch-up snips on a dry mane, but without combing the hair or disturbing the curl.

Curl Expert: Kevin Murphy the “Texture Master,” editorial and session stylist

Cutting Technique: Lacing

Lacing involves cutting into a wave formation free hand. This loosens up the top of the hair without layering it.

You section the hair on top of the head either side of the part. The section should be about 2 inches on each side of the part. Because it is a freehand technique, no tension is applied to the hair as you cut in freehand to form a wave. Begin cutting from the ends of the hair toward the roots. Treat each section separately, and only blend visually. “This slight layering of the top of the head allows you to keep the weight in the hair and gives it the touch of poofiness on the crown area,” Murphy says. “The trick is not to go too deep as this is a subtle look.”

Curl Expert: Diane Da Costa textured hair expert, Mizani multi-textured expert / creative consultant and author of “Textured Tresses”

Cutting Technique: Free-Hand Slice

Da Costa uses this technique to add more texture to hair, slicing into the hair toward the ends and point cutting straight down into the hair from ends to hand placement. She holds the hair out at a 45-degree angle, letting it fall freely, slicing directly into the hair up to one to two inches form the ends.

Curly Guys/Gals Tell All

by Michelle Breyer on Thursday, February 4th, 2010

We asked prominent stylists to tell us about their hair and what it was like growing up with curly hair.

Diane Da Costa,

textured hair expert, Mizani multi-textured expert /creative consultant and author of “Textured Tresses”

 

Q:What type of texture do you have?

A: If you look on the Mizani Natural Curl Key, my hair is a combination of Type V to Type VI - very curly and coiled. I have a loose afro with medium-size coils.

Q: How did having textured hair affect you growing up? How did you feel about your hair growing up and how has that changed since you became involved in the beauty industry?

A: My entire family has natural textured hair—from loose waves to coily hair. I was very comfortable with natural hair, but always wanted my hair longer and smoother as my hair was a thick and voluminous shoulder-length soft curly-afro hair. My sisters had mid-back length, long smooth wavy and spirally curly hair. So, growing up, I was somewhat envious of their hair. And my mother didn’t know how to style my hair — it was more difficult, so she made my older sister do it. She finally made me start styling my own hair when I was about 9 years old. That’s how I started in the business as a child.

When I was about 11 years old, I went for a relaxer at the salon so I could be more like my sisters with long and wavy hair. However my hair was relaxed straight.That meant I still had a lot of work to do with my hair, blow drying, roller setting, hot curling etc.

When I got in the industry, that completely changed. I got off all my relaxers, went natural and grew out my natural hair. It was at that point that I started experimenting with all the natural, curly styles and sets my mother would do to my sisters and tried on my hair when we were children. I love my hair for all its curls and versatility. Now with all the styling products and with the ceramic tools we have today, I am able to wear my hair blown straight without any chemicals or worn naturally curly with enhancing products. In the last two to three years, I’ve enjoyed wearing my hair straight in the fall and the winter. All I have to do is wrap it, dry, blow it out slightly with MIzani ThermaSmooth System and ceramic iron. Because I live in New York and I don’t have a texturizer, I wear my hair curly with enhancing products from about April to October.

Q: What do you think are the biggest/most important/most interesting developments in the world of hair texture today?

A: It’s amazing that everyone has embraced curly hair in all fashions and forms. Taylor Swift’s long curly waves are going to be the next big look for the spring. She’s taking the music and entertainment industry by storm, and everyone’s going to want her look, whether there are using irons, sets or extensions to complete the look.

It’s also quite amazing that there in the last 10 years that so many small, independent companies have been able to develop and manufacture hair care products for naturally curly hair, with natural and organic ingredients for all hair textures. And every salon brand now has a curly line incorporated in their overall product line-up with some natural ingredients included. Twenty years ago there were only about three, there were a handful of products available. Even Mizani, the multi-textured professional brand known for relaxers and treatments, has created True Textures Curl Defining System, which launches this month.

Q: What type of products/tools and what amount of time do you spend on your hair on “curly” days and on “straight” days?

A: On curly days, I’ll shampoo and condition my hair and apply a light leave-in cream on my entire head. Then I comb through it with a wide-toothed comb. After I apply a enhancing cream/gel on my entire head, I’ll go through the hair with my fingers and finger stretch with some products, section by section. This technique, the Mizani True Textures Free Hand Styling Technique, is part of the new techniques that I have created for the True Textures Styling Collection and Techniques, which includes six styling and three cutting techniques. After, I’ll air dry or diffuse to define the curls. Sometimes, I’ll place a turban towel on my hair and let the curls set in the towel while I get dress or finish up house chores, then I’ll finger comb with a styling cream or gloss for more vibrancy. All this takes about 10 minutes.

When I wear my hair straight, I’ll have it straightened with a wrap set, blow dry and ceramic iron in the salon after a weekly shampoo and conditioning treatment. On a daily basis, if I have to refresh the style with the ceramic iron. It takes me about 20-25 minutes, including apply a gloss or styling cream and comb-out.

Q: Any other comments/observations on curly/textured hair?

A: Curly/textured hair is the most versatile, and provides the most options, whether you keep it completely natural or use a texturizer.

Kevin Murphy

Stylist, “Texture Master” and creator of the Kevin Murphy line of products

 

Q: What type of texture do you have? Describe your hair.

A: I have salt-and-pepper curly hair.

Q: How did having textured hair affect you growing up? How did you feel about your hair growing up and how has that changed since you became involved in the beauty industry?

A: My hair was always really big, and I always felt like a boof head. I was never able to get the style I wanted without a lot of maintenance until I began to make my own hair products, which began in my kitchen at home. I could never get the right texture for my hair and once I made what I needed, a light went on in my head and I thought hmmmm there could be something in this.

Q: What do you think are the biggest/most important/most interesting developments in the world of hair texture today?

A: When I was young you just had to go with your texture, and there really were no products or tools that helped you get what you needed. You just had to suffer looking really goofy. Now there are so many products and great styling tools. If you aren’t happy with your texture you can just go and get a product or a tool and get the hair you want (with a little work, that is).

Q: What type of products/tools and what amount of time do you spend on your hair on “curly” days and on “straight” days?

A: I don’t really have straight days, but I do spend a bit of time with a “Doo Rag.” I apply a moisture cream first and have to flatten my hair with the doo rag and wait. If I try to blow my hair dry, I look like a Bee Gee. From start to finish my hair can take up to 30 minutes, but it’s more of a waiting game.

Q: Any other comments/observations on curly/textured hair?

A: My thing with my curly hair is it has a little temper tantrum every couple of day. You have to get the right thing in at the right time otherwise it’s all over. Straight hair really looks the same every day. Even after being a hairdresser for over 30 years, I just can’t roll out of bed, if I didn’t have my own range of products dedicated to texture I’d be screwed.

Nick Arrojo

 

Q: What type of texture do you have? Describe your hair.

A: I have fine, curly hair. In the past I’ve worn it long, but nowadays I go for a short, cropped men’s style.

Q: How did having textured hair affect you growing up? How did you feel about your hair growing up and how has that changed since you became involved in the beauty industry?

A: I didn’t like my curly hair at all as a teenager. It was very different from most of my friends and infuriatingly difficult to manage. Most of the time, I tried to straighten it as best I could, but the results were often disastrous—especially when it rained! Since becoming a professional, I’ve learned to love my curly hair, and I encourage all clients with natural texture to wear it natural. It’s a lot better to work with your natural texture than to try to fight against it.

Q: What do you think are the biggest/most important/most interesting developments in the world of hair texture today?

A: The best thing about modern-day curly hair is how acceptable it has become in our culture to the point where it is actually revered by many. I think that’s a great leap forward for naturally textured tresses. It’s also great to see a lot of products on the market that work really well with curly hair, helping it be what it should be: bouncy, voluptuous and unique. I’ve had clients tell me the ARROJO curl crème has changed their hairstyling life. That’s got to be a good thing.

Q: What type of products/tools and what amount of time do you spend on your hair with curly vs. straight hair?

A: Right now my hair is so short that I only use one product: texture paste. I only spend two minutes working a little paste through for extra texture and definition.

Q: Any other comments/observations on curly/textured hair?

A: You should love and embrace your natural texture. It truly is unique and wonderful.

Michael Crispel

KMS California artistic team member from Earth Salon in Toronto

Q: What type of texture do you have? Describe your hair.

A: I have thick and coarse curly hair.

Q: How did having textured hair affect you growing up?

A: I was the FRO child in school and was singled out as the ethnic kid.

Q: How did you feel about your hair growing up and how has that changed since you became involved in the beauty industry?

A: As a child I wanted flat hair that was smooth so I would blend in but as I became a hair stylist I learned to embrace my hair with all the salon products that gave me so many options, from long to short textured—making my hair the most versatile of anyone in the salon.

Q: What do you think are the biggest/most important/most interesting developments in the world of hair texture today?

A: Curly products have come a long way. In the ’70s and ’80s, it was gel or mousse at best for a natural look. But now we can give hair nutrition and style in the same products.

Q: What type of products/tools and what amount of time do you spend on your hair on “curly” days and on “straight” days?

A: KMS California Curl up Control Cream, with a diffuser, for curly days and Silk Sheen Therapy Plus or straight days

Q: Any other comments/observations on curly/textured hair?

A: We curly people are the most diverse hair type in the world, and the most afraid so for all the hair salons do your home work know your clients and products and proceed with caution!

Lorraine Massey

 

Q: What type of texture do you have? Describe your hair.

A: I have predominantly corkscrew curls. But when it’s ultra humid, the mood ring personality of my curls can change on a whim and become “bottiscrew,” which is a mix of corkscrew and Botticelli! After pulling a curl strand to its actual length and releasing it, its spring-back factor can be as much as 6 inches! That’s why it’s a disaster when you cut curly hair wet. Anything wet expands, and when it dries, it contracts. It’s like a transformer.

Q: How did having textured hair affect you growing up? How did you feel about your hair growing up and how has that changed since you became involved in the beauty industry?

A: I was so young when I figured out “this is it!” me, my curls and I till death do we part! But I was not happy about it until later in life. We curlies are not born loving our hair. We have to learn to love it and if we are lucky to find a curl sponsor who will encourage us on our unavoidably curly path—that is priceless! As a child, the teasing and name calling didn’t help either with comments like “with hair like that you don’t notice her ankles”!

Q: What do you think are the biggest/most important/most interesting developments in the world of hair texture today?

A: The Devafuser is truly unique and efficient in its design and makes so much “logiCURL” sense! I don’t think there are any other developments at the moment—just regurgitated sameness but packaged differently. It’s all geared to make you feel you are not quite good enough to really have and love what you are born with!

Q: What type of products/tools and what amount of time do you spend on your hair on “curly” days and on “straight” days?

A: Frizz and curly hair is still severely misunderstood! Unruly is a word I hear all the time in the media, and I do not like it! As they say in text book, “unruly children are looking for consistency.” Same goes for curls! When your consistent in your approach, you get consistency back. I started to love my curls the day i stopped shampooing! So no shampoo equals no sulfates. Add superior conditioners and alcohol and silicone free gels. Love me as I am and do not disturb curls in progress.

The only straight I do is talk straight or straight to bed (but always curly to rise). I am a 100 percnet committed Curly Girl, and I spend such little time on my curls because fuss equals frizz. For me it’s about truly radiCurl simplicity.

Q: Any other comments/observations on curly/textured hair?

A: When the word “texturized” is applied to natural textured hair, it really concerns me since curly hair is nothing but texture naturally, and with what I have observed over the last 10 years by committing to the natural selection, is what can happen naturally in the hair is far more beautiful than anything I can manufacture, “ManuFracture” or impose upon! It’s very humbling and goes against all we in the hair biz have been trained to do!

Ouidad

 

Q: What type of texture do you have? Describe your hair.

A: I have a combination of tight and loose curls. When I was younger my hair was so thick that if I ran my hands through it, I would lose any rings I had on my fingers.

Q: How did texture hair affect you growing up? How did you feel about your hair growing up and how has that changed since you became in the beauty industry?

A: I grew up in Beirut, Lebanon where everyone has beautiful curly hair of all shapes and sizes and color. It was the norm! When I came to the United States, people would make fun of my sister’s and my curls and no one knew how to work with curls or how to handle them.

This motivated me to be the pioneer of the curly hair industry by establishing the first salon dedicated to curly hair and creating the first product line specifically for curls. Since I started my curly hair crusade 25 years ago, the curly hair segment has grown tremendously and a lot more attention is paid to it.

Q: What do you think are the biggest/most important/most interesting developments in the world of texture today?

A: Today texture is celebrated - it’s big, it’s beautiful, it’s sexy. IT has a language of its own and it’s sought after in all aspects of fashion, beauty and design.

Q: What type of products/tools, and what amount of time do you spend on your hair on “curly” days and on “straight” days?

A: What’s a “straight” day? I only have one kind of day with my hair - CURLY! It takes 5 minutes to do my hair, and it lasts for two to three days. I use a range of my [Ouidad] products and my Double DetanglerTM both as a comb and as a styling tool for my hair. The sky’s the limit with my Double Detangler - it gives me the opportunity to create any type of curl or wave pattern.

Q: Any other comments/observations on curly/textured hair?

A: I believe textured/curly hair is regal and the most beautiful hair in the world. It has so much dimension and plays up the features of its owner.

NaturallyCurly Teams with Modern Salon to Help Stylists

by Michelle Breyer on Monday, January 25th, 2010

Do you wish more stylists took an interest in working with waves, curls and kinks? We do, too.

That’s why the NaturallyCurly and CurlStylist teams were thrilled to team up with Modern Salon to create the first venture of its kind: Texture! Texture! includes information for the consumer and the professional, both online and in a special supplement to provide the latest information on how to work with texture.

Our collaboration launches with a special supplement in the February issue of Modern Salon, as well as with continuous content on NaturallyCurly.com, CurlStylist.com and ModernSalon.com. We also are coordinating a live event at America’s Beauty Show on March 28 showcasing some of the top curl experts in the country, including Ouidad, Hair Rules’ Anthony Dickey, Jonathan Torch from Curly Hair Solutions, Titi and Miko Branch from Miss Jessie’s and Mahisha Dellinger from CURLS.

The content is rich in tips, insights and inspiration to help stylists best serve clients with curly hair, including innovative products, resources and education to help stylists grow their texture business.

Both Modern Salon and NaturallyCurly believe texture is a trend that’s here to stay.

NaturallyCurly.com recently surveyed our members about stylists’ knowledge in working with curly or textured hair. Then, MODERN SALON asked stylists similar questions for comparison. Here’s what “she said” and “you said.”

Expertise

Consumer: Do you consider your stylist a curl expert? 68% yes
Stylist: Do you consider yourself a curl expert? 60% yes

Training

Consumer: Do you know if your stylist has had special curl training? 58% no
Stylist: Do you have special curl training? 66% no

Styling Tips

Consumer: Does your stylist provide training on how to style your hair? 65% yes
Stylist: Do you provide curly hair clients with advice on how to style their hair? 98% yes

Products

Consumer: Do you look to your stylist for product recommendations? 62% yes
Stylist: Do you recommend special products to clients with curly hair? 98% yes

Fast Fact

Consumer: 56% visit the salon every 6-12 weeks (more frequently than national average).
Stylist: The majority report that 20% - 50% of their clientele has curly hair (a significant market share).

AG Kicks off New Look with Curls

by Michelle Breyer on Friday, January 1st, 2010

Since it was launched six years ago, AG’s Re:coil curl activating balm has become a Holy Grail curl product for many stylists.

Beginning this month, AG Hair Cosmetics is undergoing a dramatic face lift. In addition to a new logo and new colors, the company is taking a new approach to finding the products that are right for your hair type.

The company is unveiling its makeover with the debut of its Curl category. Every other month after that, a new hair type-specific category will launch, with a color-coded system that will make it easy to find the right products.

Why are curls leading off the company’s new direction?

“We are kicking off with our top-selling, most popular line and we felt it would make the biggest bang,” explains AG spokeswoman Tatiana Jovic. “Re:coil has been our top seller since we launched it six years ago, in large part because of NaturallyCurly.com.”

In addition to the Re:coil Curl Activating Balm, Re:coil Shampoo and Re:coil Conditioner, the curl category also includes Details Defining Cream, Liquid Effects Extra-firm Styling Lotion and Mousse Gel.

“These were all products that were targeted at curly-haired people,” Jovic says. “We never actually categorized our products in the past, but we did recommend certain regimens. Now there’s no question what products are right for their curls.”

The change will also make it easier for stylists and their clients to find the right products for their clients.

In coming up with the new look, AG wanted to freshen up its signature bottles and make it easy to distinguish one category from another. This was accomplished through its bold new logo, a new splash of color and clear identification of the category.

The company also freshened up its web site and added a new tagline: Use. Love. Repeat.

“The tagline came out of the fact that AG doesn’t just have customers; they have converts— people who try the brand once, love it and are forever loyal,” says Katie Ainsworth, associate creative director of Rethink Communications.

Next out will be the Volume category, launching in March.

AG’s look has evolved since it was founded 20 years ago by John and Lotte Davis in Vancouver, Canada. But the 2010 changes are by far the most dramatic, and represent a new philosophy.

“After 20 years, we thought it was time for a new look and a new approach,” says Lotte Davis.

Blond Expert Provides Tips

by Michelle Breyer on Monday, November 23rd, 2009

Rick Wellman, celebrity colorist and blond expert, specializes in blondes. As the head colorist and co-owner of Patrick Melville Salon, his clients include celebrity blondes like Heidi Klum and Blake Lively—the latter, who hits up the salon with her dog Penny, was recently credited with the hair of the moment by the NY Times.

As a former artist, Wellman has an uncanny ability to blend and paint color onto hair, using his unique signature style called Bio-Lights, finding the perfect, natural-looking shade which Wellman claims is dependent on your skin tone. While he is an influential colorist at a top salon, Wellman has also worked with companies like Clairol to develop boxed at-home color.

When coloring natural curly or wavy hair, Wellman says to keep in mind the texture is generally a little more coarse and dry.

One advantage though, most likely the curls will camouflage any missed spots. Treat and time the root area differently than you treat the ends, especially if the client already has colored her hair. Be careful to avoid excessive overlapping of color to the ends as curly hair tends to be more porous and can quickly suck up color and become dull. Try adding a tablespoon of natural coconut oil to buffer the remaining formula and help protect ends.

When getting highlights, avoid many tiny fine strands of light pieces as they can just get lost and melt into your curls. Generally, curly hair needs thicker pieces of lightness to be even noticed or worth the while.

Wellman says that the key to achieving natural-looking blond color is “to keep subtle dimension throughout. Solid platinum or monotone yellow are dead giveaways to fake hair color. Remember, hair naturally is composed of different shades blended in the same family. For a more natural look, blonde hair color should always be a little more toned down or ashy near the root area and gradually lighter and vibrant towards the ends, never the reversed.”

Kevin Murphy Talks Texture

by Michelle Breyer on Monday, November 2nd, 2009

When Kevin Murphy was creating his line of hair-care products, he was told he needed to include a straightening product in the mix.

“I thought, ‘Why would you want that?’” says the Australian celebrity hair stylist, whose styles have graced magazines such as Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, and the Sports Illustrated, swimsuit edition.

Murphy’s attitude has always been that you should work with the texture you have. It is this philosophy that has earned him his nickname “Texture Master.”

“I’m obsessed with texture, in any shape or form,” Murphy says. “Straight hair is a bit boring, a bit flat. I consider flat irons to be taboo.”

Murphy says his own curls sparked the development of his line, which all started with Easy.Rider. He created the styling cream to work with his own long curls—now cut short.

“I used to use body moisturizer on my hair because I needed the moisture and elasticity,” he says.

He started mixing hairspray and body lotion together to create a setting lotion for his salon, and soon clients were requesting it. They used to mix it in 2-liter jars in the back of the salon, but as demand grew, they had to hire a “proper manufacturer.”

This evolved into Easy.Rider—the first product in the line—which contains hydrolyzed moisture as well as green tea, vitamins and lavender. Easy.Rider provides flexible hold and frizz control to activate curls and keep them hydrated.

Murphy says his desire to create a line of hair-care products stemmed from his desire to help women feel good about their hair.

“I have a lot of passion for this,” he says. “I don’t like to see women struggle with their hair, and I wanted to help them.”

In terms of texture trends, Murphy says “fizz” is in. Fizz, he says, is a controlled version of frizz.

“The hair has to look healthy,” Murphy says. “It can’t be dry.”

The line, which launched last year in the United States, includes shampoos, conditioners, treatments and styling products, which have all been designed for specific hair types. All of the products are sulfate and paraben free and contain high levels of natural ingredients, with high-grade essential oils and amino acids.

The square plastic packaging also is unique. Murphy says the bottles use 40 percent less plastic, yet hold more product than rounded bottles. They also take up 40 percent less space.

He also has developed a variety of tools that help create and control texture. These include Hair.Curlers and Wave.Clips, which provide ways to “control what you’ve got.”

Murphy says he was unsatisfied with the performance of mainstream hair-care products, especially those for wavy and curly hair. Too often, he says, they were too heavy and greasy.

Murphy, who oversees all product development, says all of the products in the line evolved out of looks he wanted to create on a photo shoot or while teaching a class.

“I wanted the hair to look a certain way, so I would mix products together,” he says. “But I wanted it all in one product.”

Born in Melbourne, Australia, Murphy made his mark in the Australian hair-care industry in the early 1990s, and his Chapel Street salon became an institution. Although he hasn’t been in a salon since the mid-1990s, Murphy is an in-demand stylist for editorial and advertising shoots, and has coiffed numerous celebrities.

Murphy believes his own head of curls has helped him better work with others who have textured hair. In fact, he goes so far as to say that stylists with curly hair are better at working with curls because of their intimate understanding of the hair type, such as what can make it frizz and how much it shrinks and how to apply products.

“When you have curly hair, you know curly hair,” Murphy says. “I suggest you look for a stylist who has hair like you.”

Murphy shared some of his top curl tips with NaturallyCurly during a recent visit to Austin.

• To get even product distribution, throw your head over and start by applying the styling product on the back, putting it mainly on the ends and work your way up to the roots.
• When it’s drying, rap a turban around your head. That helps control volume and encourage curl formation.
• For thicker, coarser curls, apply product when the hair is soaking hair. For finer, wavier curls, the hair can be half dry to encourage more volume.

Salon Outlook Positive in Q3

by Michelle Breyer on Thursday, October 29th, 2009

The outlook for the salon/spa industry remained positive in the third quarter, as the Professional Beauty Association’s (PBA) Salon/Spa Performance Index (SSPI) rose for the second consecutive quarter. The SSPI — a quarterly composite index that tracks the health of and outlook for the U.S. salon/spa industry — stood at 101.9 in the third quarter, up 0.1 percent from its second-quarter level. The SSPI is constructed so that the health of the salon/spa industry is measured in relation to a steady state level of 100. Index values above 100 indicate that key industry indicators are in a period of expansion, while index values below 100 represent a period of contraction for key industry indicators.

“For the first time this year, salon/spa owners reported a net increase in service sales. However, they also reported that retail sales continue to be soft,” said Sam Leyvas, PBA’s director of government affairs. “Long term we are seeing growing optimism on the part of salon/spa owners both in terms of service and retail sales in the months ahead.

The SSPI is based on the responses to PBA’s Salon/Spa Industry Tracking Survey, which is fielded quarterly among 800 salon/spa owners nationwide on a variety of indicators including service and retail sales, customer traffic, employee/hours and capital expenditures. The Index consists of two components — the Current Situation Index and the Expectations Index.

The Current Situation Index, which measures current trends in five industry indicators (service sales, retail sales, customer traffic, employees/hours and capital expenditures), stood at 99.1 in the third quarter - down 0.6 percent from its second quarter level of 99.7. The Current Situation Index has remained below 100 throughout 2009, which represents contraction in the current situation indicators.

For the first time in 2009, salon/spa owners reported a net increase in service sales, meaning more owners reported higher sales than lower sales. Thirty-eight percent of salon/spa owners reported an increase in same-store service sales between the third quarters of 2008 and 2009, while 36 percent reported a sales decline.

Although salon/spa owners reported an improvement in service sales in the third quarter, they continued to report soft retail sales. Forty-seven percent of salon/spa owners reported lower retail sales in the third quarter while thirty-six percent of salon/spa owners reported higher retail sales between the third quarters of 2008 and 2009.

The Expectations Index, which measures salon/spa owners’ six-month outlook for five industry indicators (service sales, retail sales, employees, capital expenditures and business conditions), rose 0.7 percent in the third quarter to a level of 104.6. The Expectations Index remains well above 100, which indicates that salon/spa owners are optimistic about industry growth in the months ahead.

Third quarter growth in the Expectations Index was driven by growing optimism for both service and retail sales in the months ahead. Fully seven out of 10 salon/spa owners said they expect to have higher service sales in six months (compared to the same period in the previous year). Only 8 percent of salon/spa owners expect their service sales volume in six months to be lower than it was during the same period in the previous year.

Salon/spa owners are also much more optimistic about stronger retail sales in the months ahead. Sixty-one percent of salon/spa owners said they expect to have higher retail sales in six months (compared to the same period in the previous year. In comparison, just 9 percent expect their retail sales to decline in six months (compared to the same period in the previous year).

“PBA takes pride in providing timely and relevant economic data to the marketplace,” said Sam Leyvas “doing so is critical to our mission as the industry’s leading trade association.”

The full SSPI and second quarter Salon/Spa Tracking Survey Report can be found at www.probeauty.org.

Rodney Cutler Launches Style Collection at Ulta

by Michelle Breyer on Monday, October 26th, 2009

Celebrity stylist and CurlStylist columnist Rodney Cutler recently partnered with The Salon at ULTA to launch a groundbreaking collection of one styles he created just for Ulta.

Inspired by high fashion and designed exclusively for the Salon at ULTA, Runway Your Way is a series of three versatile “looks” that will be available from stylists at all the Salon at ULTA locations nationwide.

The “looks” include:

Uptown Chic: A soft, short layered cut inspired by the runway at Miu Miu; this look is ideal for those who want a sophisticated style that is chic and sassy.

Modern Rock: A disheveled, mid-length cut similar to the hair styles at the Marc Jacobs fashion show; this look is perfect for those who prefer a classic cut that lends itself to a modern twist.

Urban Luxe: A wavy, feminine, long cut reminiscent of looks seen at the Louis Vuitton show; this look is a true classic with a simple and sexy appeal.

Each “look” has several variations, depending on each individual’s texture, face shape and personality. In addition, each basic style can be created using Redken products.

An innovator in the salon industry, Cutler’s mantra is “Sexy Healthy Hair.”

“When the Salon at ULTA and Redken first approached me about this partnership, I immediately thought, “What an amazing opportunity to take these creative ideas from the runway and translate them into wearable looks for women everyday,” said Cutler. “I planned each look with the intention of making women feel beautiful, powerful and confident — just like a runway model.”

Cutler added that the idea is to bring high fashion to where consumers are already going. He said he plans to come up with new looks for the next few seasons.

“The Salon at ULTA is constantly evolving, and the new Runway Your Way collection is just one example of how we are redefining the way a national salon chain is setting the trends,” said Allyson King, Vice President of Salon Services for the Salon at ULTA. “Partnering with such a talented hair professional as Rodney Cutler enables us to offer women everywhere accessible and affordable cutting-edge cuts and styles they want with the convenience of the Salon at ULTA.”

Salon at ULTA stylists nationwide are fully trained by Redken-certified artists to master the Runway Your Way collection and this month began offering the styles.