With many women trading damaged, flat-ironed hair for more natural curls or textured ‘dos, a growing number of stylists are now focusing on curly-haired clients and their different styling needs.
Learning about styling curly hair not only brings you new business, but can also keep your chair full during down seasons. With so many products and tools to choose from, we break down some of the most popular ways to break into this niche and to keep your business booming.
Education is Key
Stylists across the country are beginning to recognize the growing trend for textured looks, which has prompted an increase in education. Classes can be found across the country, the most prominent coming from New York’s Deva certification classes, which can last anywhere from one to three days, that trains stylists on the art of dry cutting, the no shampoo method, coloring, and styling curly hair. Ouidad also has a New York certification and aids in promoting a newly certified stylists through their extensive email database of curlies.
If you don’t want to commit to just one brand, there are several ways to gain more knowledge on the art of styling curly hair. NaturallyCurly.com hosts “Texture!” each year at ABS Chicago, drawing hundreds of stylists who have the opportunity to ask questions and watch demonstrations from the biggest names in textured tresses.
Attending beauty trade shows can be the biggest bang for your buck in terms of education with curl-friendly product lines such as Ouidad, Hair Rules, As I am, Jane Carter Solution, Tigi and Mizani showcasing the latest techniques for curls and kinks. These shows are also a great place to catch up on valuable business tips. Premiere Orlando hosts over 50 classes dedicated to building your business as a stylist and salon owner during the three-day convention.
Meetup groups are also an invaluable educational opportunity for both consumers and stylists. One of the largest natural hair meet-up groups comes together in the Dallas area, with over 1,600 curlies looking for advice and education on styling curly hair. Meetups are also great marketing tools, especially for stylists who want to help women transition to natural hair. They have the opportunity to show off their skills to a highly engaged audience.
Getting the Word Out
More stylists and salon owners are finding unique ways to promote their curl expertise through social media, meet-ups, and salon events. With over 500 million active users on Facebook, companies, such as Schedulicity, are helping stylists and salon owners fill their appointment books through their business pages.
Social media can be an especially powerful way for stylists to get new clients. Teresa DeLorenzo of Mademoiselle Salon & Spa in Haverford, PA. says online reviews and word of mouth are her main form of recruiting business.
“Having curly hair is like a cult,” she says. “Two curly-haired women meet and right away they start talking about who does their hair.”
Here are examples of how some stylists have taken advantage of styling curly hair to keep their chairs full:
Niche: The Power of the Deva Cut
Shai Amiel
Capella Salon, Studio City, Calif.
Training: Honed curl techniques on his own and trained with Lorraine Massey from Devachan Salon
Background: Since starting in the business fifteen years ago, Amiel has noticed how hard it is for curly-haired clients to find someone skilled in styling curly hair. Over half of Amiel’s clientele has curly or textured hair, and he says adding the curl department has definitely increased retail sales in the salon. “I never really planned on specializing in curly hair, but over the years it just kind of happened,” he adds. “It’s just been a fun ride.”
“So many women with curly hair have been getting bad haircuts as a result of cutting curly hair wet and in big sections,” says Amiel. “I end up fixing many hair disasters by other so called ‘curl specialists.’”
He’s become known as the “curl doctor” and invited Lorraine Massey, author of “Curly Girl: The Handbook,” and Deva product creator to train Capella Salon’s team.
How he Markets His Salon: Amiel also teamed up with Massey to create Charity: Water, an organization committed to bringing clean drinking water to developing countries. The project kicked off at Capella Salon’s Curls Night Out, where stylists demonstrated techniques for styling curly hair, and clients enjoyed wine, champagne, and desserts. Massey was on hand during the event to sign books and answer curly questions. To spread the word of the event, Shai used Facebook and NaturallyCurly.com to ensure that all of the area curlies were invited. The raffle at Curls Night Out raised almost $800 for charity: water.
The Professional Beauty Association (PBA) announces the finalists for the 2011 North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA)! As the most prestigious photographic beauty competition in North America, NAHA celebrates the creativity and skill of the professional salon industry. From avant-garde and editorial styling to recognizing the business savvy nature of salon owners, winning a NAHA award is a true pinnacle career achievement.
As always, textured hair is one of the highlights of the annual competition, showcasing some of the most dramatic artistry and latest innovations.
The NAHA Award’s Ceremony will be held Sunday, July 31, 2011 at the Mandalay Bay Resort in Las Vegas. An evening filled with high-energy, creative expression and artistic presentations by some of the industry’s leading figures including current Hairstylist of the Year, Tony Ricci, the 2011 NAHA Award’s Ceremony is the perfect place to salute rising stars and industry icons. NAHA 2011 is part of PBA Beauty Week, which also includes PBA Symposium, Beacon, Best Practice Club, the City of Hope Charity Gala, and is hosted by Cosmoprof North America.
NAHAs are given in 13 distinct categories, including: Hairstylist of the Year, Master Stylist, Avant-Garde, Contemporary Classic, Editorial Stylist, Fashion Forward, Haircolor, Makeup Artist of the Year, Salon Design, Salon MBA, Student Hairstylist, Salon Team and Texture.
In addition to winning the NAHA, the 2011 Hairstylist of the Year winner will also be flown to New York City for meetings with leading consumer beauty editors and appear on the nationally syndicated lifestyle television program, BETTER.
NAHA also salutes two professionals who have made a significant impact and contribution to the industry. NAHA 2011 is proud to present its top honor, the Lifetime Achievement Award, to Michael O’Rourke, an internationally renowned hairstylist, salon owner, educator, and businessman. NAHA 2011 is also pleased to induct entrepreneur and philanthropist, Stan Klet Sr., into the NAHA Hall of Leaders.
NAHA continues to draw from a diverse and internationally renowned list of hairstylist and makeup artists from the United States, Canada, Great Britain, Australia, and Switzerland.
Judges included Angelo Seminara, Kris Sorbie, Vivienne Mackinder, Tabatha Coffey, Ruth Roche, Mary Brunetti, Darren Bain, Bennie Tognini, Robert Lobetta, Kendall Ong, Jamie Carroll, Gary Sunderland, Heather Wenman, Antoinette Beenders, Dean Banowetz, Nicholas French, Sam Brocato, Anthony Morrison, Mark Hayes, Sharon Blaine, Eveline Charles, Leon Alexander, Jonathan Lovett, Damian Stoney, James Morrison, Damien Carney, Michael Baker, Will Bruder and several others.
Via a blind entry process, entries were narrowed down to five finalists per category, and one winner in each category will be chosen.
The NAHA festivities kick off with a Red Carpet Reception at 6:30 p.m., followed by a star-studded Awards Ceremony featuring special artistic presentations, live entertainment and special guest appearances.
Marketing coordinator Cyntelia Abrams was walking down the hall at Design Essentials two years ago, bemoaning the fact she needed another relaxer, when a visiting stylist suggested she go natural instead.
Abrams, who started working for the Georgia-based haircare company in 2005, had experimented with low-lye relaxers, but she had never been quite ready to embrace her natural texture.
“I hadn’t seen my natural hair since I was five years old,” Abrams says. “Growing up, I never thought natural hair was pretty.”
She decided to transition to her natural hair. “I was still wearing my hair straight,” says Abrams during an interview at ‘Fro Fashion Week in Atlanta.
Finally, a year and a half ago, the light bulb went off. She said it was time that she finally embraced her natural hair— kinks, coils and all.
“I can’t just love my natural hair when it’s straight,” she says. “I realized—this is my hair. It was time to get comfortable in my own skin.”
Although she still wears her hair straight every now and then, Abrams says she wears it natural most of the time. Usually, she just wets it and goes.
And Abrams’s acceptance of her own natural ‘do is reflected by Design Essentials, which is committed to natural hair. The company developed its Natural Hair Care System— a collection of curl definition products infused with a combination of natural butters and oils to maintain and style loose wavy to tightly coiled hair textures. Each product is specially formulated with a blend of nourishing natural ingredients such as jojoba, cocoa butter, coconut oil, soy and almond oil to better meet the individual needs of each hair type. The ingredients provide the intense moisture that natural hair needs and the curl definition the natural consumer desires.
“We love natural hair,” Abrams says. “We’re committed to natural hair. This isn’t just a trend. It’s a lifestyle and it’s here to stay.”
“I usually style my hair by doing a Wet Two Strand Twist Set. Tips for achieving the best results with this style:
1. Detangle before twisting. Detangling helps to remove any hair/coils that have shedded during shampooing and conditioning. Detangling also creates a smoother curl/twist once the style is dry and taken apart.
2. Sit under a dryer. I’ve found that my twists are more defined, with no frizz, when I sit under a dryer versus air drying.
3. Allow hair to stay twisted for at least 1 or 2 days before untwisting the hair. This allows the wave/twist pattern to form for more curl definition with the style once twists are taken apart.”
Atlanta, GA—It was big news at Bronner Brothers, the convention. Bronner Brothers, the brand, unveiled its NuExpressions Naturals for Natural Hair product line—a 4-piece collection that consists of Scalp-Ale Shampoo Spray, BLT Twist Cream, Braid & Lock Oil Spray Oil and BLT Twist Cream For Braids, Locks & Twists.
If ever there was a doubt that natural hair is being taken seriously, the doubt was erased at Bronner Brothers in Atlanta, a 4-day convention that attracts more than 60,000 hairstylists, exhibitors, distributors and cosmetology professionals.
Over the past six decades, the convention has gained a reputation for its exciting, jaw-dropping extravagance. This year, for example, six of the most sought-after stylists are dueling in a boxing ring at the “Hair Battle Royale” for $20,000. Bronner Brothers is recognized as the largest beauty and trade show of its kind in the world—an Atlanta institution celebrating 64 years of family tradition, African-American pride, family unity and creative hair.
In past years, much of the focus was on highlighting ways to relax natural texture rather than enhance it. But this year, many of the exhibitors showcased products for natural hair. They included smaller boutique brands such as Jane Carter Solution, Shea Moisture and Black Onyx World. But brands including Design Essentials, Softsheen-Carson, Mizani and Bronner Brothers also showed off their natural hair offerings.
An entire series of classes at the show is focused on natural hair techniques—classes like “Dynamic Hair,” “The Art of Natural Hair,” “Natural Reaction” and “Innovative Styling for Natural and Locked Hair.” “All Curls Are Not Created Equal,” taught by natural hair guru Taliah Waajid, was designed to teach stylists how to work with clients who are free from chemicals and those who want to transition their hair to its natural curl pattern.
“When you leave this workshop, you will have everything you need to service all curly, wavy, kinky and coily textures of natural hair,” says Waajid.
Vendor’s t-shirt says it all: “I love my natural hair.”
Bronner Brothers unveils new Naturals for Natural Hair line
Anything goes at Bronner Brothers
CurlyNikki poses with the fabulous Derrick J of “Housewives of Atlanta” fame
Mizani True Textures products for natural hair were among those spotlighted by the L’Oreal professional brand
Black Onyx World was among the natural haircare companies showing their products at Bronner Brothers
Around every corner, there was something else spectacular and jaw-dropping—whether it be hair fashioned into a cube or a bare-chested man with long, flowing curls. Welcome to Bronner Brothers. The show was founded in 1947 by Nathaniel H. Bronner Sr. and his brother, Arthur Bronner Sr. It is recognized as the largest beauty and trade show of its kind in the world. Incredible hair creations were on display everywhere—from the models on stages to the people attending the show. One of the highlights of Sunday’s show was the Grab Bag Competition. In this contest, contestants are only allowed to use products that they are given in a grab bag. Stylist must give his or her model a hairstyle that will complement her outfit. Styles on stage included braids, twists, updos and more.
Recently, NaturallyCurly.com launched its two-month long Salute To Stylists contest, asking for your vote for your favorite stylist. Here are your picks for winning stylists!
Congratulations to Grand Prize Winner Sandy Marino of Santo Salon & Spa in Pepper Pike, OH!
Regional Winners:
Region 1 (WA, OR, ID, MT, WY):
Tracy of 7 Salon, Bellevue, WA - 2 reviews
Region 2 (CA, NV, AZ, UT, CO):
Melanie Brown of Curls Gone Wild, Gilbert, AZ - 96 reviews
Region 3 (ND, SD, NE, KS, MN, IA, MO, WI, IL, KY, IN):
Natalie of Natalie Clark Studio, St. Louis, MO - 5 reviews
Region 4 (NM, TX, OK, AR, LA):
Anna Craig of Trashy Roots Salon & Spa, Round Rock, TX - 102 reviews
Region 5 (TN, MS, AL, GA, FL, SC, NC):
Stacy Hill of DyeVerCity Salon, Augusta, GA - 127 reviews
Region 6 (MI, OH, WV, VA, MD, DE, PA, NJ):
Sandy Marino of Santo Salon & Spa, Pepper Pike, OH - 155 reviews
Region 7 (NY, CT, RI, MD, ME, NH, VT):
Julie Washington of The Estuary Salon & Day Spa, South Portland, Maine - 25 reviews
Region 8 (Ontario, Canada):
Nadine Bastien of Aphrodite’s Sanctuary, Toronto, Ontario - 4 reviews
The number of reviews were calculated from 12/15/10 to 2/15/11
Business is booming for Vicki Vela-Cambruzzi at Curls On Top in Laguna Beach
If anybody had told veteran stylist Vickie Vela-Cambruzzi five years ago she would be opening a salon dedicated to curlies, she would have told them “Get out of town!”
That was before Vela-Cambruzzi, a curly herself, saw the light. Or in her case, experienced the magic of a Deva cut, a cut at the hands of “Curly Girl” author Lorraine Massey at a hair show. The cut was her best ever—changing her whole perception of her curls—and she saved her money to go to a DevaConcepts Curlaboration to learn the dry-cutting technique herself. Less than a year later, she opened Curls On Top Salon in Laguna Beach, a salon focused on the needs of curlies. Business is booming at the 1-year-old salon, where curlies travel from outside California to get a Deva cut. “It’s been incredible,” says Vela-Cambruzzi.
Many curlies grew up at a time when few stylists knew how to work with curls, and most now have numerous war stories to tell about the bad haircuts and the botched chemical services they received. When NaturallyCurly.com launched 13 years ago, a handful of stylists and salons focused on the needs of women with wavy, curly and kinky hair. Most stylists once viewed curls as something to “fix” by straightening it or shearing it short.
Vela-Cambruzzi is part of the growing legion of stylists who have made curls their focus to help girls—and guys—with curls love their natural texture. This trend has been fueled by rising demand from women who want to work with their natural texture as well as the increased availability of curl training, thanks to curl specialists like DevaConcepts and Ouidad.
During the two-month Salute to the Stylists contest, which wrapped up yesterday, more than 315 new salons were added, promoting the skills of stylists around the United States and Canada.
Enter now to receive (4) full size products of American Crew New Style: Curl Construct, Curl Control, Boost Cream and Boost Powder. To be eligible, you must complete all required fields listed to the right. 1000 lucky salon owners and stylists will receive this new product. (Retail Value of $71.80 USD).
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Long Beach, CA—With recent attention spotlighting the keratin smoothing treatments and rumors that environmental groups would be picketing outside some salons offering the service—several hair-care brands unveiled new formaldehyde-free formulas and safety devices at the Long Beach International Salon & Spa Expo.
“Safety is my No. 1 concern,” said Lilly Balasanyan, president of Cadiveu USA, which showcased its new Acai Therapy formaldehyde-free formula as well as Aerovex Systems, a leading work ventilation system for professional salons doing keratin treatments, at its booth. “It’s very important to me.”
In addition to promoting formulas that are “100% formaldehyde free,” many companies also took steps to distance themselves from their Brazilian roots. Farouk named its new formaldehyde-free formula “CHI Enviro American Smoothing Treatment.”
Other companies, including Zerran International, Farouk Systems and Enjoy Hair also promoted their formaldehyde-free formulas. On its marketing materials, the Zerran Reallisse formula is described as free of aldehydes, methylene glycol, formol, formalin “or any other substance that produces formaldehyde. At the Zerran booth, a stylist poured some of the Reallisse Catalyst formula into her ungloved hand to demonstrate how gentle it is.
A few booths over, Croc introduced its Greenion smoothing system, which is 100% natural and contains no formaldehyde, aldehydes, thioglycolates or other toxic chemicals. GK Hair, formerly Global Keratin, swill be launching a new patent-formula in April called Light Tame with a formaldehyde level of 0.18 percent. It will join the company’s three existing formulas.
Gloss Moderne changed its name as well as its formulas over the past year in response to the growing concerns about formaldehyde. Originally called Brazilian Gloss, the company no longer imports its products from Brazil, instead developing its formulas in the United States. Gloss Moderne pledges to send each batch of the upcoming salon treatment, due out in January, for laboratory testing to reassure stylists and salon patrons that the formula is free of methylene glycol and formaldehyde — or any type of aldehyde.
“We found that by going formaldehyde-free, we could feel good about [promising results] of eight weeks or longer,” Kuen Rameson, founder of Gloss Moderne, told WWD.
Aware that some stylists may be wary of a brand’s formaldehye-free, aldehyde-free claims, many companies had copies of laboratory reports at their booths to prove the absence of these chemicals while others have reports verifying that their formulas fall within the safe limits set by OSHA. Brazilian Blowout, which has been the target of a lot of the controversy, had a large sign at its booth that said “proven safe by OSHA.” Based on the huge crowds of stylists at its booth, and at the Keratin Complex Booth around the corner, keratin treatments were still a major draw for stylists drawn by the frizz-fighting results and large profit potential.
Balasanyan understands that her industry’s credibility has been tarnished by recent reports that several keratin brands claiming to be free of formaldehyde did in fact have high levels of the known carcinogen. In addition to developing its new formaldehyde-free formula, Cadiveu USA has placed a call to action on the industry to update testing standards that will provide both accurate information and safety for stylists and the consumer.
Keratin-based treatments exploded on the scene over the past three years, with dozens of companies their frizz-fighting formulas and customers flocking to salons for the treatments, which cost several hundred dollars.
But as popularity grew, there were growing concerns that some formulas contained unacceptable levels of formaldehyde. The Environmental Protection Agency, the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health and the International Agency for Research on Cancer all list formaldehyde as a suspected or known human carcinogen. Much of it started after hairstylists in Portland, Ore., reported nosebleeds, breathing problems and eye irritation connected with the use of keratin-based smoothers. That prompted an investigation by Oregon OSHA, which then issued a public alert about possible dangers related to the presence of formaldehyde in the products.
In its 30-page report issued in October, Oregon OSHA said there’s a lack of information available to stylists about the safety of keratin products, many of which it says are wrongly labeled formaldehyde-free. The workplace safety agency has initiated further testing and concluded “there are meaningful risks to salon workers when they are confronted with hair smoothing products.”
Doug Schoon, a California chemist who consults with the beauty industry on salon product safety, contends that both Oregon OSHA and Health Canada got it wrong. Schoon criticizes many reported beauty product health hazards as bad science or media exaggeration. He said the agencies wrongly tested the keratin products for formaldehyde in the bottle rather than in the air.
“I’m a scientist and chemist that has been researching and writing about salon product safety for over 20 years and have studied the use of Formalin in cosmetics and personal care products,” Schoon said in a recent posting on the ISSE web site. “I’ve been researching Formalin-containing hair smoothing products for almost two years and am considered a leading expert on this subject. In light of all of the misinformation, worry and confusion, I believe it is important to provide information that might help to clarify the situation.”
Balasanyan, and many others in the industry, do take issue with the testing criteria. She said Cadiveu conducted scientific tests at both room temperature and at 450°F to simulate the conditions of use in salons, e.g. heated with a flat iron. The results of these tests show formaldehyde levels in the product were below 0.0002% , or 2/10,000 percent—a level considered safe.
But Balasanyan says salon professionals must be educated about the safety of the products and how to create a safe work environment for both customers and salon professionals.
Mark Garrison, the owner of a salon on the Upper East Side of Manhattan that bears his name, set aside a floor for keratin treatments, equipping it with special ventilators and began providing industrial-strength respirators to his clients and stylists.
Sasha Polit, marketing manager believes the companies in her industry need to be open and honest with stylists and consumers.
“If you’re honest and transparent, people will still use the products,” she said. “But you have to give them that choice.”
Long Beach was the place to be the last weekend of January, as more than 40,000 beauty professionals packed the convention center at the International Salon & Spa Expo (ISSE) Long Beach.
ISSE Long Beach 2011 featured such industry leaders as Karg + Blackwell, Kim Vō, Martin Parsons, Nick Arrojo, Joico, Clairol Professional, Repêchage, RUSK, TIGI, OPI, and Creative Nail Design, along with many other leading beauty manufacturers and cutting-edge “indie” brands.
Color and texture dominated the show. Brands such as Rusk, Clairol Professional and Wella showed off new color technologies, while keratin companies were prevalent on the show floor.
In addition to smoothing technologies, big texture was celebrated. Companies such as Farouk Systems and Tigi displayed techniques to create and define texture.
Products containing natural oils such as argan and macadamia continue to be a hot commodity at the show, with giants like Morrocan Oil as well as newer brands like One’n Only and Earthly Body Products.
The International Salon & Spa expo is the largest cash-and-carry professional beauty event on the West Coast.
Danilo working with a NaturallyCurly community member
Pantene celebrity stylist Danilo has a passion for curls. He loves them in all their forms—from loose waves to tight kinks.
Danilo is very excited about the options provided by Pantene’s new Curly Hair Series, designed especially for waves, curls and kinks. From cleansing to styling to deep conditioning, the products in this line work together to give you repaired, moisturized, frizz-free curls every time. The collection provides a wide range of products to keep curls looking their best.
During a recent video shoot in New York, Danilo provided some tips to keep ringlets looking their best. The ideal style to achieve is the wash-and-wear look that works with your natural texture.
Diffuse your curls
A diffuser is a curly girl’s best friend because it doesn’t have the rapid air movement of a blow dryer that could disrupt the curl pattern. For more volume, flip your hair upside down and diffuse.
Moisture, moisture, moisture
Curly hair has an inherent need for moisture—moisture excites the curl! The Deep Moisturizing Treatment has been a huge hit with curly girls. For maximum results, Danilo suggests working the conditioner into the hair, and then combing it through after it sets for five minutes.
Protect your hair from heat damage
Any type of iron works for curly hair, but be sure to protect hair from the heat by using a heat protection spray such as Heat Protection & Shine Spray.
Enhance your curls
If you have some curls that aren’t as tight as others, try finger-curling them. You can also enhance them by using a curling iron.
Pssst!
NaturallyCurly was on site to help with the filming of 4 Pantene videos at the Mark Garrison Salon in New York City. We got four great models - our own curly community members! - with an incredible spectrum of hair. Both stylists - Tippy Shorter and Danilo - were amazing. Danilo is one of the hottest stylists right now. He does Katy Perry and Lady Gaga’s hair as well as such stars as Sarah Jessica Parker and Kate Hudson. He’s very down to earth, and very knowledgeable about curls. He was so good on camera, and really threw in a lot of great tips.
Check out this video from Tippy Shorter using Pantene’s Curly Hair Series products:
More about celebrity stylist Danilo
In-demand stylist Danilo, longtime consultant to Gwen Stefani, has worked with A-list superstars including Lady Gaga, Madonna, Katy Perry, Anne Hathaway, Pink, Christina Aguilera, Faith Hill, Debbie Harry, The Dixie Chicks and Shirley Manson. His body of work includes styling for numerous music videos and America’s Top Model, hosted by Tyra Banks. Danilo has also styled such high-profile events as the VH1/Vogue Fashion Awards and the Super Bowl Half Time Show featuring Shania Twain. A man of many passions, Danilo is involved in multiple charities benefiting AIDS and cancer research.
Salon owner and cutting expert Anna Craig offers tips on running your business.
Ron King, L'Oreal educator, writes about his "easy-wear" philosophy.
Globetrotter Antonio Gonzales got his start doing his sisters' hair in Trinidad.
Ivan Zoot addresses haircutting.
