Pravana’s New Chromasilk Formulator App for iPhone

by CurlStylist on Monday, October 31st, 2011

Whether you’re a seasoned veteran of the stylist circuit or a student visionary just starting out, Pravana Naturceuticals will change the way you color the world. With their new application for the iPhone, the Pravana Chromasilk Formulator, you’ll be able to conveniently formulate colors with a wave of your hand!

This simple, straightforward iPhone app allows you to input your client’s natural hair color, including any percentage of grey to take into account, as well as the target color you’ve both agreed upon. An easy feat, since the application allows you to choose from all the Chromasilk color swatches, ensuring you both know exactly what the shade will look like!

Wait mere moments and this stylist’s little secret will fill you in on pre-lightening steps, the correct colors for her hair, plus the proper developer volume and amount. In other words, Pravana makes it possible for you to access every step you need to get the hair color they crave.

You can find the app at the iPhone app store free, courtesy of Pravana.

About Pravana Naturceuticals

Pravana Naturceuticals is a unique hybrid that combines the power of nature with technological innovation to create a new professional hair care standard. Its proprietary Naturceutical Complex utilizes nine Meso-American botanicals that nourish and promote hair’s health and wellness, and three advanced hydrolyzed proteins to increase strength, elasticity and shine. Formulas contain silk proteins, and wheat proteins and keratin. There are zero phthalates, and absolutely no animal by-product ingredients. Shampoos are sulfate free and sulfite free. All products are free of MEA and DEA and meet the strictest environmental regulations.

Losing a Salon Client to a Co-worker

by CurlStylist on Friday, October 21st, 2011

Every hair dresser probably knows how awful it feels to lose their client to a co-worker. The agony in wondering what you did wrong can greatly affect your self-confidence, and you may even start to doubt yourself when styling a loyal client’s hair who has no intention of leaving you for someone else in your salon.

“What is she doing that I didn’t do?” is a question you may be asking yourself. But don’t worry, this situation does happen, and even though it may seem like an embarrassment to you, you can learn from the situation and turn it into a good experience.

Find Out Why

First off, you want to know what happened, right? Why did she choose my co-worker over me? There may be a few different answers to that question. You can start off by talking to your co-worker to discover why she chose to go to her instead of you. Does your co-worker style hair differently? Maybe her cuts are more modern. Maybe she specializes in curly or wavy hair. Maybe she can straighten out curly hair with an excellent blowout.

Any of these differences may be very important to your client’s needs. Every staff member is valuable to the salon for their different talents, and that’s a good thing! You want the salon you work for to be diverse to accommodate the needs of each individual.

If your client chooses another stylist at your salon because of her specific needs, something you may not specialize in, don’t fret. You have your own talents. Use them, market them and always make sure each client has a great experience, even if that means sending them off to a stylist that is better suited for them.

Be Professional

Addressing the client herself is not a good idea in this particular situation. She is still a loyal customer of the salon and that is important. Your number one priority as an employee is to make sure your salon doesn’t lose business. If you address the client personally, she may feel embarrassed and stop going to the salon altogether. Trust me, you do not want this to happen.

This will only cause problems with you and your boss and with your co-worker, and no one likes to work in a hostile environment. Tension between co-workers affects everyone in the salon, from clients to the staff, and that’s bad for business.

When addressing you co-worker about the situation, be sure to do so in a private setting, keep calm and be professional. Have an open mind. After all, it may not even be your fault. If you co-worker is professional, she will never make you feel bad about the situation.

Shrug it off

Don’t worry so much! Everybody is different, and different people like different things. Maybe you can learn something from this. If a co-worker has a great technique for curly hair, you can always ask her for pointers. Don’t ever think you already know everything; none of us do! All of us could use a little room for improvement.

Losing a client to a co-worker isn’t a big deal if it only happens once or twice. It’s when it keeps happening to you that there is a major problem. If that’s the case, do what you have to do to fix the problem, and fix it fast, because ultimately you are the one who will lose.

Styling Curly Hair: 5 Common Mistakes

by CurlStylist on Thursday, September 1st, 2011


Ouidad, Queen of Curls.

The life of a stylist is fraught with trials, triumphs and many tribulations, especially if you choose to specialize in textured tresses. Yes, some mistakes are inevitable no matter how savvy you are as a stylist — but you may be surprised how many common faux pas are avoidable. And, you don’t need years of experience to figure it out, if you’re willing to learn from the wisdom of those who spent decades creating a brave (and curly) new world.

Here, we turn to leading curl experts, and asked: If they knew then what they know now, what nostalgic advice would they share about styling curly hair? Read on for the top 5 lessons of curl-centric veterans — lessons they learned the hard way, so you don’t have to.

1: Set Realistic Expectations

When Ouidad, the “Queen of Curls,” first started styling curly hair, she acknowledges that her idealism took over.

“I wanted to change the world with the haircut that I gave them. I wanted to fix it all and change it all,” Ouidad says. “But it’s impossible to take a head of hair and change it all completely at once. What I learned is to really look at the hair, study all the curl patterns, and learn exactly how much curls shrink, each section, and how they fit within each other when you cut. It’s not like cutting straight hair, you can’t just change it all at once.”

So, instead of having an image of what you think you’re going to do with the client, like change their life, Ouidad encourages up-and-coming stylists to examine the different hair textures, really study them and understand them first.

2: Listening to Your Client

“Let the client talk, don’t talk over them. Just observe them,” says Denis DaSilva, co-owner of New York’s Devachan Salon. “You win over people when you agree with them. If you try to disagree, you’ll never win. Agree with them, and then change them a little to the right or left according to what needs to be done, but never say no.”

No is not a word your clients are going to accept easily. So, experts say, be certain you understand what they want before you react.

“You’re going to have to really listen,” adds Christo. “You’re going to have to analyze their hair, so you can give them options and ideas.”

3: Don’t Treat Curly Clients Like Straight-Haired Clients

Curl experts say you cannot treat curly clients the same way you treat clients with straight hair.

“Most of the time, people with straight hair will let you do whatever you want,” Christo says. “But with curly clients, you have to take into consideration that she has already tried many things and ended up in your chair because you claim you specialize in curly hair. So you have to live up to those expectations.”

And that can mean a much longer consultation for new clients. For example, Christo blocks out an hour for new clients. “We want to make sure that person is going to stay with us because we know we have all the solutions for them,” he says.

He suggests stylists ask themselves if they’re really comfortable styling curly hair. “Anyone can say they do curly hair, but can they really? Or, are they making disasters out there for us to fix?” Christo asks.

4: Don’t Let Curl-Phobia Get the Best of You

Although you may feel fear when first approaching curly clients, don’t give in to it.

“The first 10 years as a stylist, you’re so afraid of clients. When they want what they want, they make you concerned about that. The second ten years, you learn how to present what is better for them, but the end result is they will push you, even though you gave them whatever they wanted,” DaSilva says. “The third ten years, now you’re smarter. You listen, but learn how strategically to put them in a spot where you can always give them more.”

Especially when it comes to color, DaSilva warns that if you give the client too much control, it will be hard to get it back.

“I don’t have confrontations with any clients, but if they say I want a lot of blonde highlights, I’ll put the blonde strategically in places where they will see more blonde, but not necessarily doing more blonde,” he explains. “If they say I want a little red, I may know that warm brown, for them, is red.”

DaSilva says it’s all about understanding how to interpret and balance a client’s wants and needs.

5: Communicate

Curl experts say your words matter a lot when styling curly hair clients.

“If you say, ‘I know exactly what I need to do,’ it just blows up in your face. Even if you do know, it just puts [the curly client] on the defense,” Ouidad says. “It’s essential to talk about how you’re going to work with the hair, what kind of movement you want to put in the hair. You want to be able to verbalize and explain how it’s going to fit and how it’s going to look like when the hair is dry.”

Ouidad says you can ease a curly’s fear by saying things like, “I know layers would be too rough for your hair, or it would shrink too much.” You really want to make sure curly clients know that you’re not going to give them ledges, a pyramid or some other shape they dread — and that you understand their texture.

“Make your client as comfortable and be trusting as possible by saying things that resonate with them,” Ouidad says.

Read all of this bi-annual issue of Texture!

2011 NAHA Awards Winners

by CurlStylist on Wednesday, August 3rd, 2011

Creation by Eli Mancha. Photo by Helen Berkun.

The North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA), a Professional Beauty Association (PBA) event and the most prestigious photographic hairstyling competition in North America, is pleased to announce the winners of NAHA 2011.

The winners were recognized July 31, 2011 during a star-studded ceremony held at the Mandalay Bay Resort & Casino in Las Vegas. More than 3,000 beauty professionals attended, along with more than 35,000 viewers from across the globe who tuned in to watch the live steaming broadcast on hairdesignertv.com, to see who would be honored in NAHA’s 13 distinct categories. NAHA’s top honor, Hairstylist of the Year, was presented to Eli Mancha from the Lock & Loaded line and the Bang Salon in Chicago, IL.

Awards Ceremony

This year, 2011, marked 22 years of the NAHA Awards Ceremony. The event featured artistic presentations from NAHA 2011 finalists, NAHA 2010 Hairstylist of the Year, Tony Ricci, and Proctor & Gamble professional brands.

Honorees of the event included Stan Klet, Sr., who was inducted into the Hall of Leaders, and Michael O’Rourke as the recipient of a Lifetime Achievement award. Actress, model, author, Las Vegas headliner and star of Planet Hollywood’s PEEPSHOW and Holly’s World on E!, Holly Madison, was presented with the PBA Beautiful Humanitarian Award for her work as an animal rights advocate.

Ceremony Highlights

In 2010, NAHA partnered with HairDesignerTV.com to bring the NAHA Awards Ceremony to the world via free, live streaming video. In 2011 the partnership continued and an even larger worldwide audience of more than 35,000 saw the Awards Ceremony.

NAHA and PBA also secured two additional consumer media opportunities to broaden the reach of NAHA. DailyMakeover.com featured a four-part profile on various NAHA categories and several finalists provided advice on a series of hair and makeup questions. In addition, the 2011 Hairstylist of the Year will travel to New York to be featured on nationally syndicated lifestyle show “BETTER” in September.

The first ever NAHA People’s Choice Award for the Hairstylist of the Year category was also launched at NAHA 2011. Voting was done during the show via text messaging. Charlie Price, a two time NAHA Hairstylist of the Year winner, took home the inaugural prize.

The NAHA 2011 winners in their respective categories include:

Master Stylist of the Year
Kris Sorbie
REDKEN 5th Ave, New York, NY

Hairstylist of the Year
Eli Mancha
Lock & Loaded, Chicago, IL

Salon Team of the Year
Jackson Ruiz Salon
Austin, TX

Editorial Stylist of the Year
Dimitrios Tsioumas
Mizu New York, New York, NY

Student Hairstylist of the Year
Giovanna Simington
Golden West College of Cosmotology, Huntington Beach, CA

Texture
Carlos Cintron
TIGI, Lewisville, TX

Make-Up Artist of the Year
Clarissa Luna
Jackson Ruiz Salon, Austin, TX

Avant Garde
Jake Thompson
Lunatic Fringe, Salt Lake City, UT

Contemporary Classic
Simon Chercuitte
SACO, Montreal, QB
Fashion Forward
Zahir Ziani
Red Door Spas, New York, NY

Haircolor
Dimitrios Tsioumas
Mizu New York, New York, NY

Salon Design
Marco Verrelli
Salon M Squared, Toronto, ON

Salon MBA
Karie & Aaron Bennett
Atelier, San Jose, CA

People’s Choice Award – Hairstylist of the Year
Charlie Price
Antoin du Chez the Spa, Denver, CO

Photos by Helen Berkun. Creations by Eli Mancha.

Client Hair Coloring Tips From Brig Van Osten

by CurlStylist on Thursday, July 14th, 2011

brig van osten

“Shear Genius” winner Brig Van Osten uses Pravana colors to achieve stunning results.

Hey there, my curly loving and cutting friends!

In case you missed out on Brig Van Osten’s live Facebook chat hosted by Pravana, we’ve provided you with some of the Q&A highlights.

Straight from the “Sheer Genius” to you, Brig provides quick client management and hair coloring tips.

Question: I have a client with Level 5 all over and chunky platinum highlights. She now wants to totally switch to JLo’s new Soft Sandy Blonde. What do you suggest?

Brig: I suggest you use Pure Light Power Lightener with 10 volume on her nat level 6. Leave your level 9panels out. Lift to level 9. Wash & dry.

Q: On personal style—do you ever worry that your own personal style will deter a client? I am in a pretty conservative area, and while I’m classic, I’m still kind of bold and worry about getting in to a salon and finding that a problem.

Brig: A great way to get around that is to create something cool using a clip in hairpiece that can be clipped out when you client goes to the day job. I never worry about what someone else will think of how I choose to look. I want to attract those who “get” me. I’m an artist and it reflects in my appearance. If I had to wear all black to a job, I wouldn’t work there.

Q: Have you ever listed with an agent? I’m near Nashville & I would love to get some on-shoot work and was thinking of contracting agents once licensed.

Brig: If you want to do freelance work, an agent is almost always necessary. Negotiating money for yourself is also challenging. Agents are fabulous.

Q: Brig, how do you get your clients to try a little “fun” color when they are timid about it?

Brig: I start each consultation by asking: “What do you like and dislike about your hair? If you are in the color room formulating and find yourself unclear, you didn’t talk enough with the client. Go back & ask more questions. Review pictures. I keep crazy records on each client. Consistency is key to a successful career as a stylist.

Q: I recently had a big problem with “sun-in.” Brig, how do you deal with this nightmare? Are there any recommended steps on getting this color correction under control?

Brig: Sun-In-EEEEEKKKK. Test strand & always darken, never lighten. Proceed with caution and under promise results. I remind clients that tell me, “My hair is strong and can handle it,” that I don’t want to see them on Judge Judy with me. Sun-In, Henna, crap from the all-natural market – BEWARE. Test strand. That has saved me many times. Offer a hair rehab program at your salon—great way to bring in clients with wrecked hair & make plans to nurse it back to health.

Q: Brig, I saw an awesome timeline of your career somewhere, but I can’t remember where it was.

Brig: I got my start at the cheapest school & hustled education after that. I also assisted and learned a ton of “what not to do” from a lazy stylist.

For more information concerning this chat with Brig Van Osten and the products he recommends, visit Pravana’s website.

Facebook Chat with Brig Van Osten

by CurlStylist on Wednesday, July 6th, 2011

Facebook Chat with Brig Van Osten

Keep your calendars open on Monday, July 11! Bravo’s ‘Shear Genius’ winner, Brig Van Osten, will be available to answer all of your questions via Facebook.

Top 8 Natural Hair Styles

by CurlStylist on Tuesday, June 28th, 2011

Top 8 Natural Hair Styles

Design Essentials Salon Systems recently released the results of its online Natural Hair Survey, and the latest announcement revealed the top natural hair styles fueling this explosively popular trend. Two hundred African American and Hispanic women, ages 18-64, participated in the survey to assess their attitudes and behaviors toward wearing natural hair.

The natural hair trend celebrates the natural texture of each woman’s hair and embraces their curls, coils and kinks. Women showcase a wide range of natural hair styles based on their texture, lifestyle, maintenance routine and styling preferences. Design Essentials found that the top styles are wash and go, thermally straightened or extensions/wigs/weaves. Braided styles were found to be slightly less prevalent.

Results from the survey are as follows:

6% - Twists

6% - Straightened

9% - Afro

10% - Dreads/Locks

11% - Braids

19% - Thermally Straightened

14% - Extenstions/Wigs/Weaves

28% - Wash and Go

“The natural hair trend has emerged as more than a passing fad, and professional styling experts, classes, products, blogs, magazines and industry conferences have created a new a niche in the industry,” Tracey Gibson, Director of Marketing for McBride Research Laboratory, creator of Design Essentials®, added. “All of this activity focuses on coming together to understand the needs of women who are wearing natural hair styles or transitioning, distributing the best information and offering the right products and services. The results of our survey are a key part of these efforts and we continue to conduct this vital research.”

Utilizing the results found in the Natural Hair Survey, Design Essentials most recently participated in the World Natural Hair, Health, & Beauty Show by offering educational classes to both professional stylists and consumers. The classes, which focused on the versatile styling options of natural hair and Design Essentials Natural, were a huge hit amongst attendees. Design Essentials also offers the Step by Step Styling Guide that features six beautiful and simple styles for natural hair, which is accessible online at www.designessentials.com.

How to Create Scarlett Johansson’s Auburn Updo

by CurlStylist on Friday, June 24th, 2011

How to Create Scarlett Johansson's Auburn Updo

Scarlett Johansson

Celebrity hairstylist David Babaii has created many celebrity updos including Scarlett Johansson’s look for the 5th Annual Spike TV Guys Choice Awards. To create her beautiful auburn shade for your clients, David recommends using Couture Colour Luxeblend Creme Hair Colour with Pequi Oil.

• Hair is 200% stronger after one color application

• Deep, penetrating color without ammonia

• No-drip, multi-dimensional glossy color

To achieve the look, David started with a small amount of Pequi Oil massaged through the hair after shampooing. Next, he dried her tresses using his hands throughout to build volume and texture. When dry, he added additional Pequi Oil to his hands using his fingers to comb the hair back, allowing sections to fall into place naturally. To finish, David twisted and bobby pinned strands to create a “piecey” updo. 

How to Give Clients Nicole Kidman’s Sleek Ponytail

by CurlStylist on Friday, June 17th, 2011

Nicole Kidman's Sleek PonytailNicole Kidman's Sleek Ponytail

Celebrity hairstylist David Babaii created Nicole Kidman’s ponytail for the CMT Music Awards. Here he tells us how to give that look to your clients.

Step 1:

First, I cut a bang using a “lacing technique” at the ends to create a soft wispy fringe. Prior to blow drying, I applied a small amount of Couture Colour Pequi Oil Treatment through the hair. It is ideal for sealing the cuticle, while repairing and strengthening each strand. Not to mention the shine!

Step 2:

Next, I dried her hair with a large round brush to smooth hair straight while bumping the ends under for a slight curl. To begin, I started by drying the nape area first and then proceeded until her entire head was dry. The bang area was smoothed with a medium size round brush, loosely cupping the ends under.

Step 3:

Finally, to achieve her high sleek ponytail, I went through her hair with additional Pequi Oil for added shine and control plus it enhances her stunning red hair. With a wide tooth comb, I gathered the sides top and nape area into a high ponytail and secured with a band allowing shorter strands around the face to fall naturally to blend in with the newly cut bang. 

Jonathan Antin’s Tips to a Perfect Blowout

by CurlStylist on Friday, June 17th, 2011

Jonathan Antin

Jonathan Antin offers blowout tips.

During the recent Tribeca Film Festival, Conair set up a Style Studio in the Arts and Cinema Lounge to offer celebrities quick touch ups before their red carpet debuts. On hand to assist with blow outs was blow out pro and celebrity hairdresser Jonathan Antin, and he graciously shared his tips for the perfect bouncy blow out.

Tips for a Bouncy Blow Out from Jonathan Antin:

  • For an extra voluminous bouncy blowout, begin by towel drying clean, wet hair. Be certain that hair is rinsed VERY thoroughly.
  • Use a wide-toothed comb to untangle hair.
  • With a professional-quality dryer that has a cool shot button, dry hair upside down. Follow by smoothing out ends with a round brush on a low, warm setting. Engage the cool shot button every 15-20 seconds.
  • A professional quality dryer with ionic technology is key because the AC motors featured in these dryers dry hair faster, minimizing damage and frizz.
  • When hair is completely dry, divide hair into 2-inch sections.
  • Begin at the top of the head, toward forehead and work backwards. Wrap hair around a round brush with a medium-sized barrel so that the section is rolled toward the back of the head.
  • Using high heat and a concentrator nozzle to pinpoint airflow, dry hair from root to end for 8 seconds, then freeze into place using the cool shot button for 5 seconds. This technique is similar to hot rolling and gets volume, separation and definition. If hair is excessively curly, you can dry hair from mid-shaft to end to minimize styling time.
  • When finished with the top of head, dry hair on sides and back, pointing the dryer downward. This avoids get class=”bullets” style=”clear:left;”ting frizz and fly-aways.
  • Dab a pea-sized amount of styling cream into your hands, and smooth it into the ends of hair to define and separate tresses.
  • Finish hair with a light hold flexible hairspray.

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