Over on the TIGI stage, platform artist Dominico Tomei of Fernando Cellini salon in Ottawa, was demonstrating not just how to get perfect curls, but rather how to get curls worthy of a magazine spread. Rather than focusing on perfectly formed, frizz-free ringlets Tomei created an ethereal halo that relied on intentionally separated curls for a light and airy final look.
Beginning with a basic shape, Tomei first formed the curls using a leave in and serum before completely drying with a diffuser. Once completely dry, Tomei used his fingers to gently pull apart individual sections. In an effort to really take the look to the next level to create what he described as “Editorial Curls,” he pinched a section at the end of the strand and used two fingers on his other hand to slide the hair towards the roots creating drama and lift. Using dry shampoo to create more volume, Tomei’s final look provided gorgeous texture with soft definition and a lot of movement.
“I love when a woman has the confidence to wear her natural curls,” said Tomei, “It’s actually really hard for a lot of women to do because they’ve had to hide it their whole lives.”
Last Saturday, June 2nd, NaturallyCurly hosted the 2nd Annual Curly Pool Party where hundreds of stylists and NaturallyCurly community members enjoyed an afternoon soiree of poolside styling demonstrations by Amika, Shea Moisture, URCurly and Ouidad.
As the event Media Partner, Modern Salon was on hand to capture the event. Check out this video of Modern Salon’s Maggie Mulhern interviewing CurlStylist’s own Michelle Breyer.
We discovered this stylist’s swoon-worthy curls over at the Paul Mitchell stage at Premiere Orlando. At first we were eyeing her amazing ringlets and then her awesome golden/auburn ombre hue so we decided to ask how she got her color. The answer was shocking: A SEA SPONGE!
Rather than using foils to highlight individual strands of curls, Samantha got her golden flecked highlights by applying color forumla using a sea sponge along the length of her hair. ”I think we’re seeing a lot more organic coloring and this technique gives great but more subtle highlights,” she explained. Samantha recommends controlling the highlights by applying the dye with different pressures in different areas; for more saturated hues press harder and for lighter tones press more softly.
Another way she recommended getting more organically distributed highlights is to first braid the hair and spot lighten different sections within the braid.
We’re just getting back from this years Premiere Orlando Beauty Show in Florida where we spent two action packed days scouring the floor for the latest trends in beauty and hair. For us, Premiere Orlando is always THE place for connecting with brands and stylists who deliver the freshest and most on-trend styles and products. Here’s a quick round up of some of our favorite styles and products we saw this year. Stay tuned for more in-depth how to’s from the artists themselves!
A CHI stylist with a bold red bob attaches a thick blonde braid for added intrigue and texture to an updo.
Smoothing treatments still reign supreme. Here, a stylist demonstrates a just-released, all-natural smoothing product called Agave by Bio Ionics
A Matrix platform artist puts the finished look on a structured, avant-gard style by adding porcupine quills
Ouidad stylists show off their brand’s signature, perfected curls
A rainbow of saturated hues on the Paul Mitchell stage
TIGI’s Dominico Tomei demonstrates how to get curls worthy of an editorial spread
Perm’s are back! Takara Belmont’s model demonstrates the latest in perming technology: The Air Wave, a system that plugs rollers in to dry from the inside out.
Design Essentials Master Educators Celeste Harris and Candace Walls discuss the new Strengthening Therapy System
Tangle Teezers, one of the curly world’s most divisive detanglers, showing off new professional models in a rainbow of hues
Big undulating waves are de rigeur at Alfaparf Milano
TextureMedia is thrilled to announced Texture Only Offers (TOO!), a new online platform giving you insider access to exclusive textured hair events, training, products and resources. Each week a TOO! offer will be delivered right to your inbox with exclusive offers including:
• VIP access to textured hair events
• Tickets to limited texture hair trainings and courses
• Unique product bundles for curls, coils and waves
• Exclusive salon experiences
You will be receiving the first TOO! offer in your inbox tomorrow, but make sure to also visit TOO! to make sure you keep up with all of the exciting and exclusive offers that will be sure to enhance your curl styling business!
We love hearing about new partners and businesses to feature on TOO! If you’re interested in featuring your business or service, please visit this online form and let us know!
Love the high gloss shine you can achieve with lighting in an editorial photo shoot? Rusk platform artist and Eduction Team member Angela Greenland demonstrated a new technique called a Shine Line from their 2012 Rebel Chic Collection. The Shine Line adds either Bold Color Contrast or a Subtle Tonal Change to the round of the head where light normally hits, adding the appearance of shuttered dimension within the haircut and the illusion of scintillating luminosity in color. This technique offers a simple way to enhance 2a-2c texture with the bold level 7 coppers and level 6.66 reds trending this season both on on the Rusk mainstage and the ABS show floor.
To achieve this look, smudge a thin line of bleach around the curvature of the head right where the light hits.
1. Using Deepshine Conditioning Cream Haircolor / Equal parts of 9.13 Very Light Beige + 9.01 Very Light Ash Blonde + the appropriate Deepshine Shine Enhancing Developer process 35 minutes
2. Take a panel in the round to the head ( with this model the front fringe area - Pre lighten to yellow stage with Deepshine White + 20 Volume Deepshine Shine Enhancing Developer
3. Rinse and Shampoo with Deepshine Hydrating Shampoo, towel dry until just damp
4. Tone with Deepshine Demi / 7.44CC Intense Copper Blonde and Deepshine Shine Enhancing Balancing Lotion for up to 20 minutes
5. Rinse, Shampoo, Condition with Deepshine Hydrating Shampoo and Conditioner
6. Style using one of Rusk Designer Collection Products
Cinnamon hues were hot on the Avlon stage this year at America’s Beauty Show. We were loving this multi-dimensional coppery-red with honeyed highlights which complimented this model’s highly textured, haute-couture coif. Avlon Platform Artist and Educator Marco Ortiz used the following formula to achieve this warm, rich tone on a virgin application of color:
• 2 ounces of 10N
• 5 oz of 5RC
• 3 oz of developer 20 volume (for the highlights)
To achieve the final style, Avlon artists shingled the model’s 4a hair with KeraCare Natural Textures Defining Custard to define and lengthen her coils. Once the hair was fully dry from this wash’n'go set, the artist used a flat twisting and pinning technique on one side, back and part of the front to create a half-updo. The truly versatile finished look is perfect for both daytime and evening wear.
Vintage styling and texture techniques such as bouffants, French rolls, pin curls and finger waves were all the rage at this year’s America’s Beauty Show. We caught up with Hair Rules Founder and Texture Guru Anthony Dickey who demonstrated how a traditional pin curl set on curly hair is a safe method to create an textured, 70’s glam look with a refined, modern twist. Here’s how he got the look on CurlStylist’s own Michelle Breyer:
1. Wash and condition hair using Hair Rules Cleanser and Conditioner
2. Do a light blow dry to partially straighten the hair.
3. Prep the hair with Hair Rules Volumizing Dry Shampoo
4. Use a flat iron, rather than a curling iron, to create a traditional pin curl set. With a flat iron you can both smooth and shape, reducing the amount of heat needed to create the finished style.
5. Gently remove the pins and use fingers to smooth the hair into place.
6. Finish with hairspray and voila a sleek and elegant spin on a textured ‘do!
“I’m really inspired by the 1970’s, which I think back on as a very inclusive time in texture.” explained Dickey. “I love Halston-esque, Bianca Jagger glam. Styles from this era provide a sophisticated interpretation of texture that are work for almost any hair type!”
Special thanks to Michelle for trading in her signature curls for an adventure in runway-worthy waves!
This year, America’s Beauty Show received a big dose of curls, kinks and waves from the first-ever Texture Pavilion. Hosted by TextureMedia and Modern Salon, the Texture Pavilion brought together six of the leading texture-specific brands including Curly Hair Solutions, Hair Rules, My DNA, Jane Carter Solution, Jessicurl and Use Me. The TexturePavilion featured three full days of live styling demonstrations on the Texture Stage geared towards educating stylists and students about styling and hair care for an increasingly curly-haired clientele.
“As more and more consumers become educated about environmentally and healthy hair care, we’re seeing a lot more texture in the salons as people are giving up chemical straightening,” explains Anthony Dickey Founder of Hair Rules. “It’s crucial for stylists to learn how to work with, and not against, texture in order to maintain and grow their clientele.”
Topics covered in the styling demonstrations included:
• How to lengthen and define a client’s existing curl pattern
• How to dry hair without creating frizz
• Curly cutting techniques
• How to safely, but non-permanently, straighten textured hair
Texture On Stage
Texture was hot on other stages across the show floor, proving the importance of texture-centric stylist education. “Curls are coming back!”, exclaimed a platform artist on the FHI Stage. Over on the ARROJO stage, attendees caught a glimpse of the latest in perming technology called the American Wave to be released in May 2012. “We’re very inspired by the multi-textured styles we’ve been seeing on the streets of New York. There is clearly a return to texture,” explained Nick Arrojo who made a cameo on the TexturePavilion stage, ” and the American Wave offers clients a way to get billowing and free-flowing waves and curls.”
Here’s a glimpse of the Texture Pavilion in action during the 2012 ABS:
The spotlight is on texture in the fashion industry, and we don’t mean tweeds, wools and ruching. Curls, kinks and waves are front and center on the runway this season.
Sleek, flat locks are a thing of the past on the runway as fashion designers and hair stylists draw inspiration from the textured-hair revolution taking place around the world. Together, they have resurrected the art of the curl and are putting it center stage in fashion shows everywhere.
The versatility of texture provides stylists with an infinite amount of creative possibilities for designing high-drama, high fashion, haute couture hair to complement the equally dramatic clothing created by renowned designers.
“Rather than sleek, straightened hair, what we’re seeing more and more of in fashion is a celebration and enhancement of texture,”says runway and celebrity stylist Danilo.
The fashion industry draws its inspiration not only from other cultures and eras, but also from what’s happening on urban streets. Tammy Mixon of Farouk’s Global Artistic Board says she has noticed more consumer awareness of the damaging potential of double processing hair.
“We’re seeing more coloring, and as a result, less straightening treatments, so naturally there has been a reemergence of textured hair,”says Mixon.
Additionally, via websites like NaturallyCurly.com geared toward textured hair, and a wide network of curly-haired bloggers and vloggers, there has also been a large increase in consumer education of how to work with and wear natural texture.
“That’s the beauty of having an educated population: a multi-textured world,” says Anthony Dickey, lead stylist and founder of Hair Rules.
As the number of people wearing naturally textured hair increases, designers are picking up on this global trend and incorporating texture into their runway presentations.
“I think designers are also finding inspiration in models who are unapologetically sporting their natural hair,” says Dickey. “By incorporating naturally existing textures into their runway shows, designers create a more distinctive and authentic presentation to complement their unique aesthetics.”
On the Runway
Textured hair on the runway comes in a wide variety of forms depending on the designer’s overall concept. From loose waves to tightly kinked afros, stylists are exploring all options.
“This year we were seeing a lot of what we call ‘third-day hair,’” says Cutler salon stylist Mike Martinez. “It’s big, loose natural waves that create a sort of undone look.”
Another popular look is created from tighter curls that have been deconstructed for a voluminous look with a lot of movement. “This is a style I want to see more of,” says Mixon. “The bigger the better!”
Frizz has also become a fashion forerunner, according to Danilo: “I love the drama of frizz. It’s got a really playful structure.”
Working with a model’s hair texture, whether it’s frizz or flat, is becoming a popular method for runway stylists. Carlos Fernandez of LuxeLab, who is known for his innovative work in enhancing texture for runway shows, likes to adapt a model’s hair texture to the runway concept.
“If a look is straight with a deep side part, but a model has super kinky hair, I won’t necessarily blow the hair straight, but I will work to enhance the natural texture and incorporate the deep side part. It looks better on the model and is less work for the stylist,” he says.
However, texture isn’t always seen in variations of curls and waves. It’s also seen in the introduction of braids, twists, buns, knots and crimped pieces to the hair.
“Texture is about adding a bit of intrigue to the hair,” says Martinez. “It’s taking the extra step to add a bit of drama where the audience least expects it. That’s where you go from a normal salon style to a runway style.”
Mixon also noted that it’s rare to see a runway show without incorporating extensions into the looks: “Hair has to be exaggerated because it’s on stage,” she says.
Rising to the Challenge
Despite the growing popularity of texture on the runway, there still exists a lack of industry knowledge in working with curls.
“I learned how to work with textured hair because I am passionate about it and pursued working with texture on my own,” says Fashion Week stylist Jennifer Lord of Naturally Me! Salon in Baltimore. “It’s not something taught in cosmetology school.”
Behind the scenes of the Spring 2012 shows in Paris, model Jourdan Dunn tweeted her frustrations with lack of stylist knowledge in working with her texture.
“It’s so surprising to fi nd yourself at a show being styled by a stylist who knows how to work with my hair,” says model Nikia Phoenix.“I refuse to have my hair straightened anymore and I bring my own products because I’ve found I know texture better than most stylists. I keep my hair short because with less hair, there’s less risk of a stylist damaging my hair.”
With advancements in product formulations and tools, stylists are now equipped better than ever to create innovative, high-fashion, high-drama, haute-couture textured hair.
“Today we’re at the intersection of fashion and science,” says Danilo. “We have biological needs that science is helping to bring to the public.”
Because of that, interpretation of the word texture is going to be diverse: glam texture, ethnic texture, natural texture, manufactured texture and more. In the upcoming seasons, a return of vintage styling techniques such as setting, pin curls, plaiting, bouffant and fi nger waves combined with modern innovations in coloring and extensions will be the next wave in runway texture.
“The future is both a return to classic and natural techniques and hightech processes,” says Danilo. “Fashion is an opportunity to create a feeling, a vibe, a spirit.”