Choosing the Right Dryer and the Right Shears

by Antonio Gonzales on Monday, August 9th, 2010

I was born in Trinidad in the height of a hurricane. I spent my childhood surrounded by the sights and sounds and smells of Carnival and the other Indian, African and Spanish festivals of the Islands. Loving the amazing costumes, I got my start dressing my sisters and doing their hair and makeup. An opportunity came up to work with Trinidad’s leading costume designers, makeup artists and hair stylists. After I left the Island, my career evolved with work in Munich, Los Angeles and now New York City. Here in New York, I am a stylist at the Orlo Salon in the Meat Packing district. Vogue magazine recently named me as one of the rising hairstylist stars in N.Y., I was awarded the best haircut of 2008 by shecky’s.com, Gotham Magazine called me a Shear Genius and Allure Magazine featured me as one of the best cuts 2009.

See Antonio’s blog here.

Skill is a big part of one’s strength in the beauty industry, and having the right tools to support skill is very important. Over the years I have purchased enough tools to open my own beauty supply shop—some were great and some were a waste of money. After my personal, painstaking experience I’m here to share with you the tools I’ve found helped improve the quality of my work, hopefully saving you some money in the process.

THE BEST HAIR DRYER

T3 Bespoke Featherweight Hair Dryer

I can safely say that this is a product that’s ahead of its time. In my own words the dryer is very light, leaves the hair shinier than any hair dryer I have ever used, and in the long term it has kept my clients’ hair healthier, avoiding over-drying. For those of us who have used those old-school black dryers that weigh a ton and sound like a boat engine, the T3 Featherweight takes a little getting used to. When you first use it you will ask yourself, “Is it powerful or hot enough?” Yes it is—the difference being that it doesn’t produce too much unnecessary “hot air.” It’s an efficient tool, taking clean sections and getting even results from the roots to the ends.

The advantages when using this dryer are that it dries the hair 70% faster, due to the Tourmaline SoftAire and T3 patented process. The dryer blows a large stream of concentrated ionic and infrared heat for super-speed drying time and offers 8 different settings that allow for precision and versatility when drying the hair.

THE BEST SHEARS

As we all know, great shears do make a big difference and can really help us define our work and give a better haircut. I’m a firm believer that good tools give better results (like in any other industry); however, I do not believe that the most expensive tools are always the best. What makes one pair of scissors different from another is the design, workmanship, and material. There are so many manufacturers of shears that it can be confusing. Here are my recommendations to purchasing the right shears and why:

Cutting Shears

Personally my first choice in shears are those by Nic, which are made in Japan and have been around for about 40 years. I have used them for the past 10 years and I like the attention to design and workmanship, and have found Nic to be very consistent in their quality of shears. I even feel that over the years the quality of their products has improved. Furthermore, they also make a variety of styles and sizes for the left-handed stylist.

Choosing the Right Shears

When buying shears, do your research as to how long the company has been around and what is their history of making and maintaining shears. This is a serious investment and all decisions around purchasing new shears (no matter the price) should be well thought-out. Have you ever had some masked man with a flashy black velvet case of gleaming shears come by the salon with brands that you have never heard of and offering them at great prices? I have seen these masked crusaders over the years offering convenience and cheap shears, and let me tell you that this is a bad idea! I purchased many of those shears early in my career and regretted it every time.

Stick with the well-known, professional brands. And remember, when in the market for shears, try several on for size by holding and getting a feel for them. (It’s like buying a new car—you wouldn’t make a deal without test-driving it at least once, right?)

The Right Size

The size of the shears you choose is really a personal experience; however, it could also depend on if your training is American or European (Europeans tend to like bigger shears). It can also depend on which academy you trained with: Some cutting schools don’t teach razor cuts, so a variety of sizes will be needed to deliver a more intricate haircut.

Antonio shows everyone how it’s done.

After some research and inquiring into which sizes are most popular, I have learned that in the past, a five-inch shear used to be the most popular choice; today, though, it’s the six-inch. But I recommend having five-, six-, and seven-inch shears to start. These three sizes can help you achieve any haircut, be it curly, straight, thick, or thin, and when you can afford more, then invest in expanding your equipment supply.

The five-inch shears are, obviously, ideal for stylists with smaller hands. These are excellent when working against the neckline (bobs), fine hair (cutting wet), and detailed dry cutting on any hair type. I like small shears when fine-tuning diffused curly hair. After the hair is cut and styled, I take these smaller shears and almost cut in the wave/curl and remove bulk. It’s almost like I’m carving into the curl in a downward motion, or holding the curl out of the head and slicing out unnecessary bulk. For me, when dry cutting (after a wet cut) on straight hair, the smaller shears are perfect to establish control without changing my shape that I created wet. In other words, be careful of over-cutting and changing your haircut in unintended ways.

In my experience (having big hands), the six-inch shears are easy to hold, enabling total control when doing those detailed cuts and for bulk removal on dry or wet hair. I like these for point-cutting wet or dry hair and for slide-cutting.

I utilize my seven-inch shears on thick hair and when cutting the perimeter of the hair. I use these more often for bulk removal on thick hair, wet or dry. They are great for point- or slide-cutting bulk out of thick, straight, dried hair, in instances where I have enough control of the hair to safely remove bulk. If you have large hands, then most likely you’ll find these shears very comfortable to use.

Thinning shears

For thinning shears, Nic gets my vote too, hands down. When choosing thinning shears, remember that the more teeth in your shears, the less hair it will remove (appropriate more for blending). The less teeth, the more hair it will remove (think bulk removal). I have had so many thinning shears, but this particular brand has lasted the longest and has stood up to a lot of abuse.

Keep in mind that choosing the right shears is a very personal experience, and any one of these shears can be used at any point. What I have given you are very basic guidelines on choosing the right shears that can save you time and money. Also remember to ask other stylists in your salon their thoughts on the shears they are using. You can also get valuable information from your co-workers on making the right investment.

In Part Two of this article I will feature my favorite razor, combs, brushes, and clippers.

Antonio Gonzales: 6 Essential Tips for Being Successful

by Antonio Gonzales on Monday, July 26th, 2010

I was born in Trinidad in the height of a hurricane. I spent my childhood surrounded by the sights and sounds and smells of Carnival and the other Indian, African and Spanish festivals of the Islands. Loving the amazing costumes, I got my start dressing my sisters and doing their hair and makeup. An opportunity came up to work with Trinidad’s leading costume designers, makeup artists and hair stylists. After I left the Island, my career evolved with work in Munich, Los Angeles and now New York City. Here in New York, I am a stylist at the Orlo Salon in the Meat Packing district. Vogue magazine recently named me as one of the rising hairstylist stars in N.Y., I was awarded the best haircut of 2008 by shecky’s.com, Gotham Magazine called me a Shear Genius and Allure Magazine featured me as one of the best cuts 2009.

See Antonio’s blog here.

I can’t tell you how much it means to me to have the ability to share with hairstylists my business-building advice. Moving to New York (the fashion capital of the world) and building my business from the ground up was a very humbling experience. After trudging that long road I ended up in the same room with a hairstylist whose career I have followed for the past 15 years (Orlando Pita), and to have him give freely what he taught himself was a blessing. Because of this I feel I can safely give you advice from the heart and I do hope it makes a positive difference in your success.

EGO

Let’s not waste any time: The No.1 business killer is ego. It does not matter if you charge $30 for a haircut (my first price in NYC) or $200 (my present price), ego is the one thing that will set you apart from the winners. Don’t get me wrong, there are many successful people with big egos, but they are limited in ways that the “truly successful” people aren’t. Recently while I was at lunch in between client appointments (as we all do) and chatting with Orlando, we broached the subject of being a better hairstylist, and in his own words he told me, “No matter how good you are, there is always something better you could have done on your last client, photo shoot or movie.” Basically he’s said that there are no excuses—there’s always room for improvement. Now this is coming from a man who has an amazing career (his haircuts cost $800!). If he thinks that way about his own work, then there is definitely room for us up-and-coming hairstylists to improve our thoughts about the work we produce daily. In other words, stand by your work but be open to improving it . . . if not on the head you’re working on, then on the next one.

PUNCTUALITY

I don’t care if you are the hair messiah, be on time for your client. Your worth is measured by your respect for your client and salon. We all know the stylist that’s busy but is always late for their client, and we all know how their clients really feel about them. Sure, when they finally saunter into the salon to a full book, the clients may smile, but on the inside the client left waiting doesn’t feel fully supported, and it’s important for each and every one of yours to feel the respect and attention a paying customer deserves. Eventually these late-to-school stylists always learn this lesson the hard way, as the end result is always a loss in business. Showing up on time is crucial as both an assistant and a primary hairstylist, and helps set the foundation that your developing business skills will build upon.

KNOWING YOUR SKILL

It is very important to know your weaknesses. They are what set you apart in the salon and what is preventing your business from growing. If you are great at blowouts and your haircuts are weak, make sure that blowout is the best darn blowout you have ever done (every single time). I’m speaking from experience here: I remember being in a salon and feeling insecure about my cut; I knew my business depended on my strengths and I would do whatever it took to make that just-OK haircut flawless. In the meantime I was willing to do whatever it took—including eating a little humble pie every now and then and asking for help.

I recommend that you observe the better haircutters (or colorists) in the salon and ask questions if they are open to answering them. I would also make it known to the salon manager or owner that I was aware of my challenges and would do anything to overcome them. Throughout our careers we may know what our strengths are but it’s our weaknesses that really matter. And educate yourself: Read anything online you can find regarding the history of hair. Visit bookstores and look at photographs, educate yourself with what others in the industry considers beautiful. Open yourselves up to the masters in the creative world, and when I say “masters” I mean the hairstylists who are out there making hair beautiful. Ignore the people with the super PR machines that send press releases out at the drop of a hat. There is such a thing as “too much PR,” and it can easily hurt more than it helps.

Dio Couture

Also, Fashion Week in NYC starts soon, so keep an eye on who designed what and who did the hair, and relay this information to your clients! The inspiration you get can really make a difference in your next client’s hairstyle, and it also helps to keep things fun. For a great example, check out this amazing hair style by Orlando in Paris for Dior Couture. (Shown right)

And go online to peruse style.com every day, if you can. There you will find the trends and looks that are as current as it gets, right at your fingertips and updated daily. Style.com is better than any magazine on the market, and without the gossip . . . believe me when I say that celebrity gossip won’t build your business.

Lastly, remember those mannequin heads from beauty school? Go out now and invest in a couple, and practice on your downtime. Do cuts, updos and braiding. Keep your fingers busy and your talent will follow.

EDUCATION

Your education outside of the salon is key to improving your skill. As we all know, this can be very expensive and occasionally warrants some support from the salon. If your salon is not in a place to help, then do try to accomplish it on your own.Save up your tips (even hide them if you have to!) to pay for color education or new cutting skills. Ask your color distributor to send an educator in “for free” so that you can pick their brain for tips on improving your color techniques. Source information from people like me for classes of value (rather than those you could probably do without). I am more than happy to guide you via email. Be open-minded to using any color line, and don’t let any particular color company convince you to use theirs exclusively: Don’t drink the Kool-Aid. I’ve worked with the lot of them: Redken, Sebastian, Framesi, Goldwell, Davines, Wella, Clairol, Matrix, Joico, Dia Color, Majirel, Richesse . . . they all work, and they all have a particular place in a salon.

Also remember that there are many cutting companies claiming to have the right answer for the perfect cut. I say, after completing a certain amount of classes, dig deep and find that individuality that sets you apart. Who you are as a creative being is vital for your success. Never allow that to be limited by all the “don’ts” in our industry. The “don’ts” have been proven wrong time and time again: “Don’t use a razor on dry hair” (Orlando proved that one wrong), “don’t ever cut without thinking degrees” (cutting by numbers is overrated). Hair is a fabric and the head is round, now be creative!

PRE-BOOKING

90% of my clients pre-book their appointments. Pre-booking is a way to have your clients rest assured that their appointment time and date is secure. We all have hand-held gadgets nowadays, so your clients can surely make an appointment in their calendars. It’s really easy to do. Here’s a common scenario:

Janice is leaving the chair and it’s all hugs and kisses.

Hairstylist: “Great seeing you! And remember, for us to keep your haircut looking great year-round, you should schedule your next haircut now.” Or perhaps: “Janice, for your single process to always look healthy and vibrant, please schedule your next appointment. If we wait more than six weeks, it’s more work, which means more of a financial investment on your part.”

Janice heads the desk to pay.

Desk: “Thank you so much for your visit. How was everything today?”

Janice: “Fierce!”

Desk: “Wonderful! we recommend that you schedule your next appointment to get the time and date that’s best for you. I would be more than happy to do that for you now. We will call you in advance to confirm your appointment so that you can make changes to your time then if needed.”

Janice: “Well… I don’t really know my schedule so let me think about it.” (At this point, the receptionist should echo the hairstylist’s previous comment regarding the benefits of booking ahead.)

Trust me, Janice does not want to spend more money, and you should not have to do more than what Janice is booked for. In other words, if your client needs a single process and comes back in two months, it’s more than a single process, it’s a color adjustment.

If your clients are used to being squeezed in whenever they want, this is a very bad habit. I used to schedule like that for years, taking clients according to their needs. Now I work “by appointment time only.” There is no squeezing in of clients. If I squeeze in a client, then someone is being cheated of “good quality service.” Tell your clients this and I assure you that they will not want to be the one receiving the “push out of the chair.”

This brings me to:

QUALITY

For me this means: working only on one client at a time. If you think that doing three clients at once with two assistants is best, then hats off to you, I respect that. I feel, however, that for my undivided attention and for my best work, I really can only do one at a time. Assistants may be well-trained to help but their “quick problem solving” is not the same as mine. I do all my blowouts after my haircuts. I understand my haircut, so if I do a wet cut I need to do the blow dry so the dry cut is perfect.

Remember, short work gives shortcut results.

I look forward to any questions or input you may have for me.

Antonio Gonzales: Building Your Business

by Antonio Gonzales on Monday, July 12th, 2010

I was born in Trinidad in the height of a hurricane. I spent my childhood surrounded by the sights and sounds and smells of Carnival and the other Indian, African and Spanish festivals of the Islands. Loving the amazing costumes, I got my start dressing my sisters and doing their hair and makeup. An opportunity came up to work with Trinidad’s leading costume designers, makeup artists and hair stylists. After I left the Island, my career evolved with work in Munich, Los Angeles and now New York City. Here in New York, I am a stylist at the Orlo Salon in the Meat Packing district. Vogue magazine recently named me as one of the rising hairstylist stars in N.Y., I was awarded the best haircut of 2008 by shecky’s.com, Gotham Magazine called me a Shear Genius and Allure Magazine featured me as one of the best cuts 2009.

See Antonio’s blog here.

I have a question for all hairstylists and salon owners: What do you think of when you hear the term “building your business”? Acquiring more clients? Increased product sales? Expanding your salon? Or simply developing your skill? Following a very humble start in this industry and having grown my career in two cities (Los Angeles and New York) that have salons on every corner, I’m here to share skills—from my cutting, coloring and management experience—that helped build my business to what it is today. I will address this topic in a two-part article: the first for salon management and the second (appearing in two weeks) for the hairstylist. So no matter what your price point or what state you live in, I present valuable tips to help you be the best at what you do. Please keep in mind that I’m not going to mention the obvious, like regular staff meetings and how to sell more products.

The Basic Rule

There is a myth in our industry that giving free services is good for business and encourages loyalty and appreciation. But consider this: When was the last time you went to your doctor, dentist or attorney and were given anything for free? For these professions, time equals money, and ours is no different. And the fact that your salon rents chairs or is commission-based (as the case may be) is irrelevant. The time and service that’s being given away will cost your business part of its profit. What’s more, not only are you losing money, but also respect. If your services are worth their cost, why would you need to give it away? Whether your business model entails a $20 or s $200 cut, the service you’re providing should be worth every penny you decide to charge, and it’s important that you stand firmly behind your worth. Remember that the idea is to build your business, not shortchange it. Consider that if you find yourself granting free services occasionally, perhaps you’re charging too much to begin with and should instead lower your rates, which brings me to…

Your Team’s Value

Your staff’s talent is key to building your business; the better they are, the more worth they have. Consider this scenario: You enable your key hairstylist to focus on his or her education for one year, allowing him or her a new depth of perspective on their skill. Stipulate that after each course they complete, they then must pass on their enhanced skills to your other stylists. It’s a win-win, on multiple levels: By doing so you will not only have made your key stylist better at his or her skill, but also afforded him or her the opportunity to realize their own worth. Meanwhile, your entire team will benefit from a skill-building process that, in the end, only cost you a single student’s tuition.

When your stylists are open to the idea that becoming more skilled means more clients (and more profit) for all, then they too can participate in the process as you see fit; rotate your personnel’s course attendance; each member of your team can have the chance to attend classes and share with their coworkers. It’s a collaborative process that all will enjoy, and from which all can, and will, benefit.

A hairstylist’s worth is not how much attitude they have, how meticulous they are at their job, or even how much product they sell or how many clients they bring in, but rather the degree to which he or she is willing to better themselves. Their capacity to grow, to perform noticeably better each, is truly the most important factor.

So now that you have the staff’s enthusiastic participation, let’s begin.

Team Building

From my personal experience, as hairstylists see each others’ skills improve, it makes them feel less threatened and the sense of a true “team” is born. But keep in mind that the weaker stylists are there for a reason: to be your future stars… so who better to train them but your current shining stars. Another way to set a strong foundation for a team relates to their trust in you as their manager. Never—I repeat, NEVER—break an employee’s trust. Even if they come to you with a smallest complaint about another staff member, keep it to yourself and figure out a way to deal with the issue. Remember, if they have shared a concern, it’s now your responsibility, and this information should be guarded with the utmost respect. If their trust is broken, chances are you will never get it back again.

As the team slowly starts working together, think about ways for members to be excited to learn more, which brings me to…

Incentives

Having a staff member set an example by learning, sharing and becoming busier is often enough of an incentive for the rest of the team. But we all respond differently. Luckily, there are countless ways to create a buzz in the salon. I have taken part in so many incentive-building exercises to help build moral and sales that I could write a book on the subject! Here are a couple of the ones that worked best for me, and a couple to avoid at all costs.

Good idea: Get your product distributors involved. Have them offer more than just points; urge them to offer gift cards on a monthly basis to the stylist that sells the most treatments and/or products.

Bad idea: Don’t put that chart on the wall showing who’s selling the most. All this accomplishes is to create resentment and unhealthy, mean-spirited competition that undermines the idea of teamwork you’re trying to cultivate. The idea is to help promote a desire to do something that is part of their job. You don’t want to rub it into anyone’s face that their sales are low.

Good idea: We know that most companies now offer points for purchases that can go toward education. I’m a firm believer that the strongest producers and most talented individuals should be first on the list for education. Keep in mind that your strongest sellers may not be your busiest stylists. The idea is that they will learn faster and be stronger at teaching (hopefully).

Bad idea: If you hire a new stylist who is not as strong as your key stylist, don’t take points to send the new hire for education. Keep those points for your existing stylists and have them train the new hire. The new member of staff should prove herself through client retention, punctuality and sales.

All this talk of sales brings me to the next topic…

Product Sales

If you are basing your profit on product sales, then you are in the wrong business. Clients return for quality of work that improves over time. They can get products at a beauty-supply store. Furthermore, not every stylist is adept at selling. You may have a very talented stylist who can’t give away glitter dust to a drag queen! That’s OK—not everyone’s a salesperson. Early in my career, when my skills were not up to par, I was still the strongest at selling products. And today, as I have grown and can dish out a fierce cut, I’m still the strongest at sales … in other words, I can sell nuts to a man with no teeth! If you have a talented stylist that is weak at sales, that’s just the way it is. Trying to get them to sell is like trying to get blood from a stone—it’s not going to happen. Once they do their job, that’s all that matters; it’s about building your business, not trying to pimp products. I recommend having the super-creative stylists create, and the stylists that have the ability to sell products do that, while working on their talent.

Keep in mind that the worst feeling for a client is that they are feeling taken for granted and are being forced to buy products. It’s not worth losing a client over a bottle of shampoo.

My next article will address hairstylists directly, so get ready for some super-helpful tips to make you a star.

Antonio’s View: My Favorite Hair Oils

by Antonio Gonzales on Monday, June 28th, 2010

I was born in Trinidad in the height of a hurricane. I spent my childhood surrounded by the sights and sounds and smells of Carnival and the other Indian, African and Spanish festivals of the Islands. Loving the amazing costumes, I got my start dressing my sisters and doing their hair and makeup. An opportunity came up to work with Trinidad’s leading costume designers, makeup artists and hair stylists. After I left the Island, my career evolved with work in Munich, Los Angeles and now New York City. Here in New York, I am a stylist at the Orlo Salon in the Meat Packing district. Vogue magazine recently named me as one of the rising hairstylist stars in N.Y., I was awarded the best haircut of 2008 by shecky’s.com, Gotham Magazine called me a Shear Genius and Allure Magazine featured me as one of the best cuts 2009.

See Antonio’s blog here.

I remember as a kid that natural hair oils were a big part of our culture when moisturizing the hair and fighting frizz. The local African, Indian and mixed races (like me) believed in their conditioning benefits and did not leave home without them. As I approached the beginning of my cosmetology career, products started becoming more refined and companies started using more water-based conditioners, saying that water was more moisturizing than oils. They claimed that oils were a bit harsh, clogging the scalp with over-absorption and making ethnic hair too limp and hard to style. We as hairstylists, all welcomed the new approach to getting healthier hair with the water-based conditioning hair treatments for fighting frizz.

Then silicone-based products took the market by storm and we hairstylists were educated on the use and benefits of high-grade silicone. High-grade silicone products were easier on the hair and were removed more easily, compared to low-grade silicone. We are now back to hair oils which are making a huge comeback. These oils are not the old-school raw coconut oils or even professional oils (like Pink oil) that stopped working after some time. Oh no, we now have oils that has been researched, perfected for the professional and taking over the market from the U.S. to Timbuktu.

From treatments to styling products, I am bringing to you, the salon owner and hairstylist, 15 years of the best hair oils, silicones and water-based products to help fight frizz and build your business.

Hair Oils

These should always be used sparingly

Hamadi Healing Serum

Trust me when I say that this product is a healing experience for over-processed hair. When I first used this product, I honestly did not know what to expect. So many companies make claims to have the best product. One day I had a client for color only, she was leaving for the gym and wanted to do a rough blow dry on herself. I did not realize that she grabbed the Healing Serum by Hamadi, and she came running over to me saying; Feel my hair, feel my hair!! What is this!! Her hair felt amazing!! The product contains an amazing blend of organic oils such as ylang ylang, palmarosa, olive and avocado, just to name a few.

The Morocconoil Miracle

In Trinidad this product is all sold out!! If you have not heard of this product, you need to move back to earth. This product has brought oils back to the salon with grace, delivering results that you will love. It’s an ideal product for all hair types, especially curly or frizzy hair and I love adding it to my favorite curl cream for extra support. I even add it to my hair masks for my nieces at the beach. It makes love to the hair. (smile) Read more about this oil here.

Nautrina Rejuvenating Pure Oils

I have written about this product before so for those of you who missed it, I bring to you a safe product to add to your color to prevent any scalp irritation. It’s pretty straightforward and delivers results. In the past I’ve used all types of products for this purpose, even sugar! (I’m that old) This product is a must for your color dispensary and a few drops goes a long way. Your client will love you for it.

Styling Silicones

Should be able to easily be shampooed out of the hair.

BioSilk by Farouk

Oh yeah, baby, it’s old school time! Back to when man was created. (just kidding) I still love this product for fighting frizz. If I’m on a shoot and for some reason I don’t have my usual kit, I can run to the pharmacy and this product will deliver like it always has. It can be used on wet or dry hair, and offers great protection from heat. If you are a small, first-time salon owner and you can’t commit to the big-name brands, get this and I guarantee you and your clients will be happy.

Serum Oleo Relax

Don’t let the name fool you. It’s not always about straightening hair to remove frizz. This high-grade silicone product can be added to curls to help control frizz when air drying. A tiny bit goes a long way so, although it’s not cheap, your client will have it for a long time. Kerastase have also made a stronger product that’s similar, but it’s a little too heavy for my liking. I do know that with this company, you have to carry a certain amount of the line, so it may be too expensive to stock in your salon. If you can carry it, I say go for it!

Boost by Orlando Pita +T3

Let’s bring on the big boys. This product gives a boost to hair that’s dry and has also been cursed with the F word (FRIZZ). When blow drying use a tiny bit of this non-greasy weightless formula that transforms tired tresses. This fast acting nourishing and hydrating formulation aids in straightening and fighting frizz. Give your client’s hair a boost by using on wet hair for either air drying or for blow drying. Your clients with frizzy hair should also use a little bit of this product on wet hair before going in to the pool or ocean. It can also be used on dry hair before flat ironing. All of that from one little tube which is why when I talk about high-grade silicone this is what I mean. Read more about Boost here.

Hair Masks

Should never be full of oil because we all know that water provides moisture as well.

Kerastase Age Recharge Masque

Although it’s a pricey product, it sells itself. For me, it’s easily one of the best hair masks I have used in a very long time. On virgin or color-treated hair, it will make your client’s hair feel nourished and shiny. And although it’s a cream, it will not leave your hair feeling lifeless. It really gives vitality back to stressed hair and adds shine to dull, aging hair.

Another Moroccanoil Miracle

This luxurious hydrating mask smells so good; it makes you want to put it on your carrot cake. I love how this product feels on my own hair and I even use it as a styling product at the beach. For a deeper treatment add some of the Moroccanoil treatment to the mask and see your client’s hair come alive. Its a great way to add a service that your client really needs which is not too expensive. Read more about Moroccanoil Intense Hydrating Mask here.

Paul Mitchell Hair Repair Treatment

I remember going to my first hair show in the mid-’80s and hearing about the man himself, Paul Mitchell. His passing was a huge loss to the industry, but he left behind a product line that will be known by future stylists to come. This hydrating treatment is worth having in your salon and will change your client’s hair. The best part is that it’s not too expensive and in these times that is music to our client’s ears. Read more about this treatment here.

I am happy to have worked with all of these products. As a hair stylist it is important to offer my clients the help they deserve.

Antonio’s View: Tips for Avoiding Making Clients Frizzy

by Antonio Gonzales on Tuesday, June 1st, 2010

I was born in Trinidad in the height of a hurricane. I spent my childhood surrounded by the sights and sounds and smells of Carnival and the other Indian, African and Spanish festivals of the Islands. Loving the amazing costumes, I got my start dressing my sisters and doing their hair and makeup. An opportunity came up to work with Trinidad’s leading costume designers, makeup artists and hair stylists. After I left the Island, my career evolved with work in Munich, Los Angeles and now New York City. Here in New York, I am a stylist at the Orlo Salon in the Meat Packing district. Vogue magazine recently named me as one of the rising hairstylist stars in N.Y., I was awarded the best haircut of 2008 by shecky’s.com, Gotham Magazine called me a Shear Genius and Allure Magazine featured me as one of the best cuts 2009.

See Antonio’s blog here.

The word “frizz” never sounds good in any sentence unless you are asked to create couture hair for a Paris runway show. Apart from that, frizz is not a desired look and can be challenging.

From one hair stylist to another, we have all had the client (sometimes daily) who wants our help in making her hair frizz-free. I would like to talk a bit about the part we may be playing in making the client’s hair even frizzier. Please keep in mind, I am not here to lecture anyone or talk about what I do better. I’m here to share with you all the mistakes I’ve made in the past and how I changed my techniques to get better results and happier clients.

What Stylists Might Do That Can Make Hair Frizzier When Cutting

1) Thinning shears on dry, thick curly hair is the No. 1 culprit in turning curly hair into frizzy hair. Although using thinning shears may seem like an easy solution, it can lose you a client if used incorrectly. When used on dry hair, thinning shears create a line of shorter length within the section of hair. And as we know in building the structure of the hair, short hair supports long hair. By using these shears, you may have removed bulk but what you have also done is made the hair fuller (shorts supports long). This can become frizzy if there are too many internal shorter pieces.

If you would like to remove bulk from thick curly hair, I recommend doing your haircut (wet or dry) with regular shears. Blow dry the hair smooth. Then hold a dry section of hair half way down the hair shaft and point cut the bulk away. This is not only safer than the thinning shears, it also gives you more control without disturbing the shape you’ve created.

TIP: Remember when removing bulk with any tool or technique, keep in mind not to disturb the shape of your haircut. Also be careful not to over thin the hair as this can create an unwanted texture that will work against your hair cut.

2) Razors can be another culprit in making a client’s hair frizzier. Remember the razor we were given in beauty school? Yes, the razor with the guard and the straight handle. Well, this razor in particular can make a not-so-good situation really bad and here’s why. When we use a razor with a guard, we have to scrape the blade against the hair to get friction and remove hair. Some of you may say “it’s not scraping”! Well, if you use the old-school barber razor on the hair instead, instantly you can feel the difference (and so does the client). Because the razor has no guard, that little blade becomes a magical tool that makes love to the curls. Don’t get me wrong, with any tool in the wrong hands, a client could end up looking like she was attacked with a weed whacker. That’s why we as hairstylists have forums like this, to share and learn from our mistakes.

TIP: I recommend any hairstylist to find an academy that teaches how to use the barber razor to cut hair and advance your training. Sometimes mastering the techniques which we are afraid of could be the best move for our career.

Too Much Heat on Your Highlights

This is another “frizz creator” hiding in our salons. I’m sure you’ve heard of clients with fine hair wanting a few (bleach) highlights because it helps give a little body. As we already know, bleach aggravates the cuticle, which in return gives a little lift. Well add bleach to curly hair which lacks moisture on a great day (and already has lift), put too much heat on it, and voila!! You have frizz. I’m a firm believer in allowing the bleach (and developer) to do its job. What’s the rush? Curly hair deserves better treatment, don’t you think?

TIP: Avoid using hooded hair dryers to process your foils. They not only get hot, but they also pump an endless amount of hot air into your foils which serves to dry the bleach. I recommend getting a Climazone or a roller ball for the salon, these generate heat without the endless air.

Too Little Product

I have two words for you, layering products. Most of us agree that this is the one sure way to combat frizz. I won’t go in to details about which brand to use (that’s my next article) but I will share three easy steps: cleanse, tone and moisturize (oops that’s for your skin). The three things to think of when reaching for your products at your station are:

Hydration - Keep curls healthy and hydrated with any water based curl cream you see fit. Now I’m not talking about heavy oil based lotions. I’m talking about water based curl creams that hydrate from the inside out that and comes in different strength for different types of curls. As we know there are oils on the market for us to use that are very hydrating, if you feel your curl cream is not rich enough for thicker hair, add a little Morrocan oil or Hamadi healing Serum to the curl cream for an added boost of hydration.

Hold: We know drinking alcohol in excess is bad for us. Well the same goes for our hair. I love using an alcohol-based liquid spray to help define my curls. Applying the curl cream first helps dilute the alcohol content. Together they give great hold and definition.

Shine: This is the final step in the layering process. Use a light cream, lotion or silicone to give the ends the shine and hydration it needs. Whether you diffuse the client’s hair or have the client sit under the roller ball to dry their gorgeous curls, the ends tend to look a little dry. To avoid this dryness, apply a light silicone-based cream or oil-based cream like Lumiere by Kerastase. This the final step of the layering process, and can be applied to dry hair or you can even apply it to the ends when the hair is still damp. When applying, use your fingertips to work the product through without destroying the curl.

TIP: Have your client bring in her favorite products for you to see and watch them apply her products. You will be amazed with what you will see. Layering the wrong products using the wrong techniques is one sure way to get frizz.

Over-drying the hair

If we think of hair as a fabric that we can mold into anything we want, it becomes easier to handle and we can create ideas of our own. There are so many ways to style curly hair, but let’s keep in mind that not every curly head of hair responds the same. When diffusing, try not to dry the hair all the way. Try drying your style 70 percent of the way and then allow the hair to air dry. Sometimes over-drying the hair can create a halo of frizz, so not drying all the way and leaving a little moisture in the hair can keep the curls hydrated, repelling frizz.. When using the hairdryer, use stronger heat and air flow on the root area and less pressure and heat on the ends. This will result in getting rid of excess water in the root area and creating lift where needed the most. Since the ends are the older part of the hair, they tend to dry faster so be gentle with your approach.

Aggressive Hair Coloring

When doing single processes and glosses, always think of the most gentle way to get your end result. In the past 20 years I have used Framesi, Davines, Redken (permanent and demi-permanent), Majirel, Dia Color, Miss Clairol, Clairol Professionals, Wella Color Charm, Koleston Perfect and Color Touch, just to name a few. And I actually love all these colors but stick to my favorites. I believe that whichever color your salon chooses to use, there should be continual in-salon training focusing on promoting healthy hair. Think of why you are using stronger volume peroxides. Perhaps you can use a lower volume with your bleach. Ask yourself “Why am I doing this soap cap with permanent color?” or “Should I be using semi-permanent color?” For your first-time color clients I am passionate about using Colorshines (Cellophanes) and staying away from any peroxides, even the littlest amount. I’m determined to encourage a resurgence of Colorshines into the salon. I think many stylists have become hooked on peroxide and they need to think of peroxide as an aggressive chemical.

My next article will cover cocktailing products and my favorite creams, oils and silicone products to keep curls feeling loved.

Antonio’s View: Build a Bridal Kit

by Antonio Gonzales on Tuesday, June 1st, 2010

I was born in Trinidad in the height of a hurricane. I spent my childhood surrounded by the sights and sounds and smells of Carnival and the other Indian, African and Spanish festivals of the Islands. Loving the amazing costumes, I got my start dressing my sisters and doing their hair and makeup. An opportunity came up to work with Trinidad’s leading costume designers, makeup artists and hair stylists. After I left the Island, my career evolved with work in Munich, Los Angeles and now New York City. Here in New York, I am a stylist at the Orlo Salon in the Meat Packing district. Vogue magazine recently named me as one of the rising hairstylist stars in N.Y., I was awarded the best haircut of 2008 by shecky’s.com, Gotham Magazine called me a Shear Genius and Allure Magazine featured me as one of the best cuts 2009.

See Antonio’s blog here.

Helping in fulfilling the dreams of the bride-to-be can be so rewarding!!! Seeing her big smile as you put the veil in her hair, and watching her rushing off (with brides maids in tow) to the altar always gives me satisfaction. As I am preparing my bridal kit to leave town for a wedding I was inspired to write this article in hopes of helping you build your own bridal kit. Should we really have a bridal kit? Let me explain; I have a stocked kit especially for fashion week with every imaginable tool needed to get a super model ready. I have spent weeks with Joey Martino’s guidance (my in salon educator when Orlando is away) on the best tools and products needed to get the job done efficiently.

Well, how about a bridal hair kit? A bridal kit is basically every imaginable tool needed for the hairstylist to be salon ready, or to take his talents on the road. After years of doing brides, I have mastered a bridal kit. With this kit in hand, I am ready for an entire bridal party with every hair type imaginable. Here is everything you need for a complete bridal kit to enable you to leave a lasting impression on the bridal party during that special day.

The Bridal Kit

Use a small-enough suitcase so that it does not look like you’re carrying half the salon and a shampoo bowl. I recommend using a case the size of carry-on luggage. Make sure your case is of good quality as it may get tossed around as you dash off to your appointments, and you do not want to show up looking like you borrowed some duffel bag from a deceased relative.

The Best Styling Products

Curl Cream We can argue about what the best curl cream is till the cow jumps over the moon. All I can say is if you have curl products that you can’t live without, go right ahead and use them. I protect my favorite curl combo with my life as well.

Texture When I work on an updo (curly or straight hair) I generally ask the bride not to wash her hair the day of the event. As you may have experienced, no matter how often we tell brides not to wash their hair the day of the wedding they show up with fluffy, soft slippery hair that’s an enemy of the bobby pin. Elevate by Orlando Pita is a water-free, quick-drying spray designed to use with any heating tool to add shine, volume and texture. It has helped me immensely! I can use this on the cleanest head of hair and get a texture that is easier to work with and it does not leave a tacky feel. It’s also great for extensions that may feel too heavy and slippery.

Volume As you work with your client’s hair (whether you are setting or diffusing), volume is necessary. My all-time favorite product for this is Plump by Orlando Pita. It is hair dryer activated, thickens and expands hair and is weightless. Apart from great volume, it offers a rich revitalizing blend of keratin, Vitamin B5 and botanical like bay leaf laurel. In the past when I need a fast acting product for the brides maids quick do, the previous products were good but dried too fast making the hair hard to brush as I style. Plump is strong enough without drying too fast which gives me endless time to work. The bonus to Plump is that it is great on all hair types.

Sculpt Hamadi Shea Pomade is an easy to use soft paste that helps tame the mane ridding it of those pesky fly-away hairs. A tiny bit on your fingers can help with sculpting curly ends as you go, while hydrating and defining at the same time. The Shape Paste sculpting putty by Shu Uemura is next on my list of favorites. It’s a cross between a light paste and a putty so it’s not as dry. It’s amazing for unruly hairlines and fly-away hairs on less curly (wavy) hair.

LacquerThe Sculpting Gel by Bumble and bumble is definitely worth getting. It can be used on short wavy hair, added to your favorite curl solution for a boost. It also works well as a setting lotion on damp hair. The best part is you can brush the hair without experiencing the flakes left behind by so many other products. So go ahead and sculpt a few finger waves and put your client under some gentle heat, then voila! Beautiful hair and did I mention “no flakes”!

Workable Hair Spray Oh I’m getting excited now (smile). I have one word for you: control. No, not Janet Jackson’s control, it’s Orlando Pita’s Control Spray and the benefits are endless. It will not dry out the hair over time and delivers a workable fast drying soft spray that’s perfect for heat styling. It’s a finish to die for! It’s particularly great for curly hair leaving it feeling soft and manageable.

Shine Spray This is an important part of the finishing of your beautiful hair style. I have used some shine products that smell like moonshine and some that left the hair like an oil slick. My all-time favorite shine spray is Barex Gloss Hair Spray. It gives high shine without the toxic fumes and works well.

Hair Powder Once I had a beautiful Indian bride-to-be that wanted a very classic updo with lots of hair, the problem was her hair was very fine. After adding the extensions and styling, the front of her hair was still a little fine. Luckily I had a can of black hair powder, I lightly sprayed the base of her hair and it added just a hint more color which made the world of difference. She was so happy and felt confident as she made her way down the aisle.

Standby Hair Extensions I always recommend having extra human hair clip-in extensions in black, blond and brown in your kit. If you are working on primarily curly hair clients you can perm your extensions with pink and peach color perm rods. This way they are close to the client’s natural curl (or close enough). I do not recommend styling a head of natural curls and adding straight hair extensions that were curled by a curling iron. The last thing you want is for the natural curl to hold and the curl created with a hot iron to not hold and like a dead animal hanging on the back of the bride’s head.

Hair Brushes No bridal kit would be complete without the following hair brushes, a large Mason Pierson brush and a small Mason Pierson brush (for bangs), three sizes round wooden boar bristles, three sizes in round ceramic/metal brushes, a paddle brush, teasing brush, teasing comb and several large hair clips.

Irons and Stuff You need a great blow dryer of your choice along with 3 size curling irons, a flat iron, crimping iron, a diffuser and an extension cord. I will avoid hot rollers, they’re too bulky to carry and a stronger hold without the fluff (literally) can be created with the curling iron.

Important Odds and Ends A camera, a watch, hand mirror, paper towels, cloth towel (to dampen for hot irons), paper scissors (so no one asks to use your hair scissors to cut cloth), safety pins, hair glue (for wefts), hair glue remover, crazy glue (in case the hair accessory falls apart)

Pins, etc. Finally, you will need a combination of the following accessories: fine hair nets, bobby pins, hair pins, elastic bands with hooks (in black, brown and blond), elastic bands without hooks (in black, brown or blond), Velcro rollers and hair clips (used for roller sets)

With this kit you are ready for any job that may challenge you with different hair types or lengths. Being safe not sorry is my motto and has helped me book more weddings. Remember the better equipped you are, the better chance you have of increasing your income. Now all you need is your talent.

Antonio Gonzales: Wedding Hairstyles — Styling Curls

by Antonio Gonzales on Monday, May 17th, 2010

I was born in Trinidad in the height of a hurricane. I spent my childhood surrounded by the sights and sounds and smells of Carnival and the other Indian, African and Spanish festivals of the Islands. Loving the amazing costumes, I got my start dressing my sisters and doing their hair and makeup. An opportunity came up to work with Trinidad’s leading costume designers, makeup artists and hair stylists. After I left the Island, my career evolved with work in Munich, Los Angeles and now New York City. Here in New York, I am a stylist at the Orlo Salon in the Meat Packing district. Vogue magazine recently named me as one of the rising hairstylist stars in N.Y., I was awarded the best haircut of 2008 by shecky’s.com, Gotham Magazine called me a Shear Genius and Allure Magazine featured me as one of the best cuts 2009.

See Antonio’s blog here.

There are so many things about curly hair that I love, and styling curls is definitely one of my favorites. With this hair texture, I find it so easy to create height, shape and a romantic mood, which is the envy of every girl with straight hair. However, to some of us, curls can still be a challenge, especially when it comes to building a foundation for the style. Here are seven tips to help you prepare for your special bride-to-be.

1) POO OR NO POO

With straight hair I generally recommend to the bride not shampooing her hair the day of. It’s easy to work off of one-day-old dry hair and create the desired look. But with curly hair it’s very different. It’s almost impossible for a head of curls to be slept in and come in to the salon ready for a style. From frizzing, fly-away hair and un-polished hairlines, these are just a few of the challenges we face (notice I say we as I have curly hair too!)) During the consultation, I tell the client to come in with damp, clean hair and maybe apply a little product at home. I then add more products if necessary.

2) HAIRSTYLIST KNOWS BEST (sometimes)

During the consultation, listen closely to the bride. She may have a combination of products that she can’t live without and cling to like her first pair of heels. She knows the magic it can perform on her tresses, so my advice to the stylist is to go with the flow. It just may make our life a little easier. If during the discussion, you have faith that she is not misleading you, have her apply a fair amount prior to coming in. Go over tips with her in how she can apply the product better. She may have the miracle products but you have the magic wand, your knowledge. If not, and you want her to come in with towel-dried hair and you apply the products, then that’s your decision to make.

3) AU NATURAL

Depending on the desired curl, you should think of the heating tool you will be using. This, of course, will be decided on in advance. If it’s a Climazone, diffuser or hooded dryer, use the same machine on the day of the appointment. For the natural curly look, I sometimes start drying the hair with the Climazone to dry the top and combat that halo of frizz (depending on the texture) then I use to the diffuser for height and softness. After its fully dried I then use two different-size curling irons and select curls to enhance the shape and shine. The heat also seals the cuticle, allowing the style to last longer.

4) OLD SCHOOL

For very frizzy hair and depending on how thick the hair is, it maybe helpful to work off of freshly shampooed and towel dried hair, then follow with adding your products. Working with small sections, create barrel curls (as if setting the hair) and pin in place. Then place the client under a hooded dryer and allow the hair to fully dry. While setting the hair, a great tip is having your hands coated with a light amount of product so as you twist the hair there is always product on your hands to help mold the hair in place (reapply if needed). Remove the bread from the oven, oops I mean the client from the dryer. Before the hair cools start removing the pins and carefully stretch the curls loosening them from being too tight at the root. At this point, if needed, you can go in with a curling iron to help enhance the curl.

5) CURLS TO DIE FOR

Be sure to work toward a desired shape of curl. You may work with two to three differently sized curls. Yes, yes I know our creator did not decide on a certain amount and size of curl per person, but this is different. Uniformity will help the shape and not have the hair look like too many textures (unless of course that’s the look you want). It also helps with the overall creation to look balanced. Also keep in mind that the photographs will actually capture anything that’s not polished and that’s a no-no.

6) COMBS, PINS AND CLIPS

Once I was styling a curly hair bride and was trying to remove bulk while building height. All of a sudden she whipped out a banana clip. Yes, you heard me right! For those of you that may be too young to know, a banana clip was a girl’s best friend in the eighties. I first separated her hair in the back in three vertical sections making the center section the largest. I then took the clip and clipped the middle section. This clip was strong enough to hold the base in place and free me of so much unnecessary hair. I then took the two outer sections and blended it into the middle with bobby pins to complete the look. Of course, I’m not asking for the banana clip to make a comeback. All I’m showing is that we have tools galore at our disposal, so get creative while being efficient.

7) MIRROR, MIRROR ON THE WALL

When standing behind the client, it may look great to you but from a distance it may look like, well, a basket of grapes! The best advice I can give you is throughout your career, always use the mirror. It will always guide you in the right direction. Remember you can change the shape of the hair, not the shape of the face. Be sure you are working with a hair shape that is flattering to the profile as well as the front. Being symmetrical is very important. No bride wants to look like the leaning tower of Pisa. Stand back and look at your sculpture from all angles, working towards the perfect shape.

With these seven steps you are on the right track to creating a strong base for a romantic hairstyle that will last. My next article will complete my bridal tips and tricks of the trade to hopefully help my comrades to understand the CURL a bit more.

Antonio Gonzales: Improve Your Bridal Service

by Antonio Gonzales on Monday, May 3rd, 2010

I was born in Trinidad in the height of a hurricane. I spent my childhood surrounded by the sights and sounds and smells of Carnival and the other Indian, African and Spanish festivals of the Islands. Loving the amazing costumes, I got my start dressing my sisters and doing their hair and makeup. An opportunity came up to work with Trinidad’s leading costume designers, makeup artists and hair stylists. After I left the Island, my career evolved with work in Munich, Los Angeles and now New York City. Here in New York, I am a stylist at the Orlo Salon in the Meat Packing district. Vogue magazine recently named me as one of the rising hairstylist stars in N.Y., I was awarded the best haircut of 2008 by shecky’s.com, Gotham Magazine called me a Shear Genius and Allure Magazine featured me as one of the best cuts 2009.

See Antonio’s blog here.

Hairstylists, is there anyone in your salon who chooses not to do bridal hair? There are generally a few stylists that would prefer to not take on the bride-to-be. For some of us, styling bridal hair comes naturally and for others it’s a challenge. The first time I did a bride, I was so nervous that I wanted to die! Well, let’s be honest, the expectations alone from a bride are enough to make you faint. I made a promise to myself, however, that I would do my best to make any bride happy. Luckily, I made the decision early in my career so I had enough time to practice styling hair and be educated by some of the top “updo specialists” like Martin Parsons and Patrick Cameron (just to name a few). Guys and gals, with the right techniques, tools and products, we can all make a bride smile.

I want to share my bridal business experience with you and offer some tips to improve your service.

The Price of the Consultation

I recommend to always doing a consultation before the trial hairstyle and I recommend charging for the consultation, too. Time is money. I have never done a bridal consultation that lasts less than 20 minutes and the client is still holding on to the arms of the chair asking questions while your next client is staring at you. Depending on your pricing, I would charge a quarter to half of the appointment price. I consider the consultation fee a deposit and I credit it towards the actual appointment if the client uses me. If she (or he) chooses not to use me, I do not refund the consultation fee.

For the consultation, have the bride-to-be bring with her photos of hairstyles she likes and dislikes. At this point, you get to assess her hair texture compared with the hair of the models in the pictures and discuss the reality of her hair being able to match the images she brought with her. Also, ask if there will be a headdress. Most brides may not have the ultimate veil they plan to use by the time of the consultation but if they could bring it or a picture of what they are thinking, it’s highly recommended. I have tried to create hairstyles with some veils that worked against the hairstyle because of the way they were made. Knowing this at the time of the consultation could have saved me time and headaches.

Tips

1. Give the client your full attention. That’s why they are paying for the consultation.

2. Have her also bring in images of the dress and the veil and discuss options that will be flattering to her built and the dress while fitting wit the veil.

3. Find out if she will be getting her color done and make a few suggestions to accent the style (if needed). If it’s a brunette, a few highlights can add contrast making the style more alive. If she blond, lowlights can make any hairstyle come alive with contrast.

4. Suggest that she come in to the salon a few days before the wedding day for a deep treatment to add shine to her hair.

The Cost

Sometimes a bride may feel the cost of doing her hair for the wedding is a lot for a hairstyle. Don’t forget to remind the bride that her wedding pictures will include more images of her and her hair than anything else that day. These pictures will be around for her grandchildren to see. In other words, she wants people looking at her wedding album and saying “your hair was amazing” and the flowers are pretty, too.

Tip

Be prepared to stand by your price. It’s different for the florist. They can use a few less orchids. You, however, can’t do a few less curls.

The Trial

If the wedding day is an in-salon service, I charge the same price for the trial as the actual wedding. There are very few services where you can go and get the actual service but pay half the price. I wish I could go to the dentist and say; ‘Can you give me a cleaning but charge me half price? This way if I like you I’ll come back and I will pay full price for my check-up.’ (get my drift) The trial also takes longer than the actual day and you may be meeting the client for the first time, so it can be a little stressful.

I prefer to have the bride hold a hand mirror and take the occasional peek as I work rather than having her give her opinion when it’s all done. After I am finished, it may be to late to make changes as the veil has already been fitted to the style. At the end of the trial, take pictures of the finished look and go over all the details of the style with the bride. This way, she will know exactly what she is getting the day of the wedding and you can ensure that her expectations have been met. Email the pictures to the bride and remind her that if she would like to deviate from the hairstyle agreed upon during the trial, she should come in for another trial.

Tips

1. Since Saturdays are busy in the salon I do not do trials on that day. I tell my brides that I will have more time to devote to the bride’s trial during the week and they usually agree.

2. Be sure to take notes of her favorite products used and make recommendations as to which products will work best with her hair and the ultimate hairstyle.

3. Have the bride wear a V-neck T-shirt during the trial so her hairstyle is not ruined when changing.

The Wedding Day

Try your best to execute the hairstyle as close to the trial or better. If there is a “girlfriend” watching you work who was not there for the hair trial, keep her in check. The trial has already been done and agreed upon. If “missy best friend” has a strong opinion as to what you are doing, then she should have been at the trial to voice her opinions (smile).

Tip

Some of us are very visual so having the pictures of the hairstyle at hand can keep us from straying from the discussed ‘do. Also if we are feeling super creative the day of the wedding we can still stay close to the trial, just better.

In-Salon Wedding Planner

This was an idea I came up with after seeing countless wedding parties getting their hair done in the salon. If your salon is large you may consider designating someone at the desk to handle all potential brides and their bridesmaids. From the first time the bride calls the salon to when she leaves after getting her hair done, this person can be the go-to person to keep your bridal business booming. For example:

Questionnaire for Bride

1. How did she hear about the salon?

2. Is the service for only hair or would be she need make up as well?

3. Will this be an in-salon service or a destination wedding?

4. How many people are in the wedding party who will need their hair done?

5. What time does the bride need to leave the salon for the photographer?

6. Is the bride or anyone else in the wedding party allergic to anything (teas, products, etc.)?

7. Would the party like to bring in any special drinks or food for the occasion?

I also recommend having an “event board” in the salon for any wedding parties that may be coming. Staff should always be aware of special events and can offer best wishes to the bride rather than guessing (with their clients) if it’s a wedding or not. Look forward to my upcoming bridal article where I discuss my styling tips, tools and tricks.

Antonio Gonzales: Sun-Kissed Curls for the Spring

by Antonio Gonzales on Monday, April 19th, 2010

I was born in Trinidad in the height of a hurricane. I spent my childhood surrounded by the sights and sounds and smells of Carnival and the other Indian, African and Spanish festivals of the Islands. Loving the amazing costumes, I got my start dressing my sisters and doing their hair and makeup. An opportunity came up to work with Trinidad’s leading costume designers, makeup artists and hair stylists. After I left the Island, my career evolved with work in Munich, Los Angeles and now New York City. Here in New York, I am a stylist at the Orlo Salon in the Meat Packing district. Vogue magazine recently named me as one of the rising hairstylist stars in N.Y., I was awarded the best haircut of 2008 by shecky’s.com, Gotham Magazine called me a Shear Genius and Allure Magazine featured me as one of the best cuts 2009.

See Antonio’s blog here.

On my recent trip to Trinidad and Tobago, I worked with many of my clients who mainly have curly hair. Some of them are teenagers who had never color their hair before. I know this is a novelty for hair stylists like myself with a clientele where over 80% invest in hair color. While chatting and snipping with these island beauties to my heart’s delight, I took the time to really study the “sun-kissed” tresses and how the beach, sun and wind effects the natural hair color. The colors moved through the hair with almost no beginning and no end. Let me explain: The lighter pieces almost danced through the hair with really no point of origin. In other words, at no point could I identify highlights or low lights. I knew they were there but they certainly did not look like a foiled or over-baliaged hair color. The lighter pieces sparkled and the depth supported the lighter pieces beautifully. The one advantage that these girls had was the knowledge of looking after their hair with the right hair care products. This certainly has helped the hair from being too damaged by the sun and supported the beautiful results from the sun.

Here are some color techniques that can help you achieve the sun-kissed color that these young ladies take for granted.

1. I would recommend not foiling any rich brunettes with highlights this summer; I say baliage them all the way! As clients look through magazines desiring those sparkling curls, baliage is the only thing to achieve the highlights that has “no beginning and no end” When the hair is dark and you foil the hair, the pattern really makes it look un natural. Remember the foil is square and the head is round, so the baliage is far more natural because you will have far more ability to apply color sparingly.

2. On medium brown brunettes who are getting highlights, do not only paint from roots to ends. On some areas, paint from mid-shaft to end, alternating with fine strokes and thicker strokes. This will help create the effect of a burst of color from the hair, almost distracting the eye from seeing where the color begins. For example: When you look at the inside of a hibiscus, the color starts off at one shade and gradually changes shade within the same color family.

3. For the clients with faded, medium-brown hair that you may have to low light, try alternating the low lights from roots to end and mid-shaft to end. Remember that depth does not have to be from the roots through to the ends. I often avoid the roots when I am creating low lights. When working from the mid-shaft, stay away from colors that are too dark, like levels four or five on hair that’s level seven or eight. Work with low lights that are up to one a half to two levels darker than the existing color.

4. If you are primarily a colorist, work closely with the person cutting the client’s hair. Have the hair cut done first, then study the cut well before painting the hair. This way you can see the fresh layers around the face and through out the hair and add light bits where needed. This can work to the fullest advantage for the colorist and the cutter. Can you image your fresh cut fringe with lighter tips connecting with other bits through the hair? This is where our ego must get out of the way and we commit to working as a team to make the client even happier. Remember two heads are better than one.

5. If you have a client that’s a faded brunette and is in need of more lowlights than highlights, foil the hair rather than painting it. This way, the lowlights are more aggressive and not too delicate, providing better coverage. I also recommend using two different browns, which will give better contrast and create a look that is more interesting with results that are believable. Remember the goal is sun-kissed curls!

6. If you are low lighting with foils, try baliaging the high lights. Rules, mules, shmules. My motto is, if breaking the rules will give fabulous results, well, what are you waiting for? This is achieved by doing your chunky low lights with foils, followed with a delicate baliage of highlight. As you baliage, place strips of cotton to protect the highlighted hair both beneath and on top of the section of painted highlight. This will prevent bleeding due to the pressure of the foil. Sounds like a lot of work, but as mama used to say; short-cut work gives short-cut results.

I wish you and your client great results.