PhytoSpecific Pampers Curls With Botanicals

by Advertorial on Monday, March 22nd, 2010

As PhytoSpecific celebrates its 12th birthday, the French luxury brand for curls is hardly slowing down.

In November, the company launched Ultra Repair Night Treatment, a breakthrough new formula that repairs damaged and brittle hair for 48 hours. And in March, the company unveiled Hydra-Repairing Spray for Dry Ends, a special formula targeted to hydrate, repair and protect hair and dry unruly ends. Like all of the other 18 products in the PhytoSpecific line, the goal is to improve the health of naturally curly, coarse and relaxed hair.

“The important thing about PhytoSpecific is it’s all about treatment,” says PhytoSpecific brand manager Sasha Unkov. “All the products have high levels of botanicals that really treat the hair, adding back proteins and moisture that are naturally deficient in curly hair.”

PhytoSpecific was created by French hairdresser Patrick Ales, founder and chairman of the Ales Groupe. His company is known for its ‘Phyto’ haircare lines —Phytotherathrie and Phytologie.

Ales felt there was a need for a full prestige line of products for curly, frizzy and wavy hair using botanical extracts and plants. While customers loved his Phyto products, there had been infinite requests from customers asking for specialty products for this hair texture.

Ultra Repair Night Treatment

He enlisted the help of Dr. Fatou Batchily-Plat. Plat, who has been recognized for her extensive studies of plants and has studied internationally. For Plat, a curlyhead, it had long been her own dream to use her knowledge of phytochemistry to develop a line for naturally curly, frizzy and relaxed hair based in active botanical ingredients. Ales wanted a luxurious line with beautiful packaging and concentrated formulas.

The PhytoSpecific line was launched in France in 1997 and introduced in the United States in 1998.

Because all curly hair is not alike, the company’s Essential Care line includes three categories. The Optimal category is designed for normal to dry hair and includes the Hydration Shampoo and Hydration Milk. The Intense category, for ultra-dry hair, includes the Intense Nutrition Shampoo and Intense Nutrition Mask. And the Vital Force category, tailored for damaged, brittle hair, includes the Vital Force Shampoo and Cream Bath.

The Treatment Care line, designed for intense care, includes Revitalizing Oil Treatment, Energizing Concentrate, Thinning Hair Treatment, Ca”Energy Dietary Supplement and the new Ultra-Repair Night Treatment and Hyra-Repairing Spray for Split Ends.

In addition to the Essential and Treatment Care lines, PhytoSpecific offers the Styling Care collection: Moisturizing Styling Cream, Nourishing Styling Cream, Integral Hydrating Mist and Extreme Shine Spray.

For those who want to relax their hair, PhytoSpecific offers two Phytorelaxers —one for delicate, fine hair and the other for normal, thick and coarse hair.

For those who prefer a smoother look, PhytoSpecific also offers two Technical Care relaxers: one for fine, delicate hair and one for normal, thick and resistant hair.

The products contain no harsh detergents and are loaded with plant extracts such as shea butter, macadamia oil, kukui oil, wax of mimosa, jojoba oil and mango oil, as well as vitamins and amino acids.

PhytoSpecific has become a favorite of celebrity powerhouses such as Oprah, Alicia Keys and Lenny Kravitz. And it has become a favorite of a growing number of stylists who work with texture.

“Keeping up with the look of the moment requires healthy, manageable hair,” says Julien Farel of Julien Farel Salon in New York. “One of my favorites is the Optimal Hydration Shampoo for a shinier, softer hair.”

“The line provides our stylists with the essential ingredients to repair and revitalize damage and stressed hair as well as maintain beautiful, healthy hair,” says Lisa Cummings of Salon Melage in Penbroke Pines, Fla.

Brazilian Blowout Offers Texture Options

by Advertorial on Monday, February 22nd, 2010

Britney Huinker

Every wonder how stars get their shiny, sexy tresses? Stars like Halle Berry, Jennifer Aniston and Selma Hayek have been jumping on the Brazilian Blowout bandwagon.

Keratin treatments have taken the country by storm, becoming one of the hottest chemical services, and the Brazilian Blowout has become one of the leaders of the pack. For curly girls, Keratin Treatments provide a gentler way to straighten locks, loosen curls and zap frizz.

“This isn’t a trend,” says Brazilian Blowout founder Britney Huinker. “It’s the perm of the 21st century. I truly believe it’s here to stay. New people come in to get their haircut, their color and the Brazilian Blowout. Every client can benefit from it.”

Unlike the thermal reconditioning system (Japanese straightening), which thermally and chemically restructures the hair bonds to create permanent stick straight hair, the keratin procedures recondition the hair, preventing frizz while allowing it to wave, curl, or be flat-ironed straight. Hair gradually returns to its original state without the awkward growing-out stage.

Because of the nature of the treatment, it can be used on a wide variety of hair types to achieve a range of looks, from straightening waves to providing shinier, more defined curls. For that reason, demand has soared.

Huinker, a Los Angeles native, has always had an interest in hair. Her mother was a stylist, and she wanted to go to beauty school herself. But her parents insisted she attend a four-year university. Although she graduated from the University of South California with a degree in business communications, her passion for the beauty industry was still alive and well.

Four years ago, Huinker teamed up with friend and entrepreneur M. Devin Sempler to open the Argyle Salon & Spa in the Sunset Tower Hotel on Sunset Boulevard in Hollywood, Calif. Since it opened, the salon has become a mecca for A-list celebrities.

The salon also became the development laboratory for Brazilian Blowout.

The salon has truly been the catalyst for everything we do,” Huinker says. “

Sempler returned from a trip to Brazil with a keratin treatment, and the salon began doing it on people’s hair. They decided to create their own treatment, flying back and forth to Brazil.

A year and a half ago, Huinker decided to completely reformulate Brazilian Blowout because it took too long, and she didn’t like sending her clients home with product in their hair. So they took the product off the market, reformulated it and rebranded it.

“We worked with a company here in the United States to come up with a formula that can be rinsed out of the hair so there’s no downtime,” Huinker says. “When a client comes in to get the treatment, it takes 90 minutes from beginning to end. There’s no processing. They can shower and go to the gym right afterward.”

Huinker says this is what differentiates Brazilian Blowout from some of the other keratin treatments on the market. With other treatments, she says the client may have 24 to 96 hours of downtime.

The core of the product is Brazilian Super Nutrient Complex, a proprietary blend of amino acids that fill the cuticle and provide protective protein to create shine, conditioning and silkiness without losing volume.

The formulation enables clients to get exactly the look they want, she says.

“If they want to keep their curl and wave and just get rid of frizz, they can do that,” she says. “If they want straight hair, they can do that too. It all depends on the technique the stylist uses. It really fits the needs of every client. It’s a smoothing system, not a straightening system.”

Training is an essential element of Brazilian Blowout, Huinker stresses. Stylists are trained on different techniques that provide different outcomes.

“That’s one of the main reasons we haven’t done a distribution deal, despite getting 20 calls a day,” says Huinker, who does training every Monday at her salon for those who want to become a certified Brazilian Blowout stylist.

“I’m there every Monday, without fail,” she says.

Although there is training available online, stylists who take it have to take a test, and it is mandatory that they take part in the education tour.

Before and After

Huinker says Brazilian Blowout does not contain formaldehyde—an ingredient commonly in some of her competitors’ treatments. Brazilian Blowout instead uses a proprietary polymer system, she says. Although this has caused some people to shy away from the treatments, Huinker believes formaldehyde’s bad reputation is undeserved. She calls it “media hype.”

“It’s a chemical treatment, but that’s how you get fabulous results,” she says.

The key to keeping hair looking good after getting a treatment, she says, is using the right products. The Brazilian Blowout Acai Aftercare collection includes Anti-Frizz Shampoo, Anti-Frizz Conditioner, Smoothing Serum and a Deep Conditioning Masque. The Acai hair care products infuse the hair with the company’s proprietary Brazilian Super-Nutrient Complex. This complex allows for a continual and cumulative smoothing effect to occur while the hair is washed and styled in between professional treatments.

Huinker says the products benefit those who haven’t gotten a Brazilian Blowout as well because they get rid of frizz and add shine.

Although Huinker believes Brazilian Blowout has become the gold standard, she has high praise for the other keratin treatments on the market and believe they are changing the industry.

“WIthin two years, I believe every salon will offer some form of keratin treatment,” she says. “It really fits every client. Now people come in to get their haircut, their color and the Brazilian Blowout.”

Want to become a Brazilian Blowout certified salon? Visit their website.

Curls Can Look Runway Ready

by Advertorial on Tuesday, December 1st, 2009

When many people think about high fashion, they think of models strutting down the runway with their hair pulled back into tight chignons.

Australian-born stylist Rodney Cutler, Redken’s Brand Ambassador, believes texture can be the ultimate glamorous accessory.

This season, Cutler says curlies can draw inspiration from the collections of such designers as Chris Benz, Luca Luca and Twinkle. In many cases, stylists had to go to extreme measures to create the texture that those with wavy and curly hair come by naturally.

Cutler believes those with waves, curls and kinks can easily achieve high-fashion, wearable looks with the right products and styling tips.

In January, Redken will unveil several new styling products for curly hair, including soft spin 05 curl-enhancing gel for fine hair, new and improved ringlet 07 curl perfecting lotion for medium hair and curl wise 14 curl defining cream for coarse hair. Rounding out Redken’s curl line up is curl force 17 texturizing spray-gel for all hair types. Each product is designed to make it easy to achieve the most fashionable looks at home.

“I believe in embracing what you have, but taking it to the next level,” Cutler says.

One of Cutler’s favorite looks is a hippie-chic style with hair parted down in the middle, with the curls concentrated at the ends, while hair is flatter at the roots. This was a style seen at both the Twinkle and Chris Benz’ Spring/Summer 2010 runway shows.

“The look is feminine, but also a little wild and edgy at the same time,” Cutler says.

Another hot look that was seen at the Luca Luca show is hair that’s “deconstructed,” with a variety of textures. This may mean brushing out the curls for a less-defined look that is “not contrived,” Cutler says.

“Some people may think deconstructed hair looks frizzy, but it has an airiness to it,” he says.

“The key is to create dramatic looks that are touchable,” Cutler says. “It’s about using just a little bit of product to create texture, hold and separation.”

Luca Luca

Luca Luca

Prep hair with Redken Extreme Shampoo and Conditioner

• Step 1    Apply Redken soft spin 05 curl-enhancing gel to towel-dried hair and diffuse.
• Step 2    Scrunch wool shake 08 gel-slush texturizer through out hair to achieve a disheveled texture.

Chris Benz

Chris Benz

Prep hair with Redken Fresh Curls Shampoo and Conditioner

• Step 1    Apply Redken ringlet 07 curl perfecting lotion to towel-dried hair and diffuse-dry, making sure to keep the volume on the ends
• Step 2    Apply Redken glass 01 smoothing serum throughout midshafts and ends to reduce frizz and add shine.
• Step 3    Finish with Redken quick dry 18 instant finishing spray for added all-day control.

Twinkle

Twinkle

Prep hair with Redken Fresh Curls Shampoo and Conditioner

• Step 1    Apply Redken curl wise 14 curl defining cream to towel-dried hair and diffuse-dry, making sure to keep the volume on the ends.
• Step 2    Set the midshafts and ends with a medium-size curling iron and mist Redken spray starch 15 versatile ironing spray on each section before curling.
• Step 3    Brush the set with a boar bristle brush and mist Redken curl force 17 texturizing spray-gel through the ends for added texture

Knowledge is Power When it Comes To Texture

by Advertorial on Monday, November 16th, 2009

Rodney Cutler

Many women with curls and kinks view their texture as the enemy — a hindrance to achieving the hairstyles they want.

But armed with an understanding of your curl type, the right cut as well as the latest styling technologies, you can help your client learn to love her hair’s natural texture rather than fight it.

“Curly hair can look beautiful in so many varying ways,” says Redken Expert Rodney Cutler, a celebrity stylist who has curls himself. “It’s all about finding that comfort level. Having the right tools can help you embrace your curls and get your hair to look the best it can look.”

It’s crucial to get an understanding of the hair’s texture. Is it loose or tight, coarse or fine? Or is it a combination of textures? The texture of your hair will help you help your client determine what styles would work best for her.

“Figuring out the texture will determine the right length as well as how many layers you put in,” Cutler says.

Then it’s about using the right products to work with the cut, texture and the weather. Redken this month has unveiled several new styling products for curly hair, including Soft Spin 05 Curl-Enhancing Gel, new and improved Ringlet 07 Curl Perfecting Lotion and Curl Wise 14 Curl Defining Cream. Rounding out Redken’s curl lineup is Curl Force 17 Texturizing Spray-Gel.

For fine, wavier hair, Cutler suggests using Redken Fresh Curls shampoo and Conditioner, then style with Redken soft spin 05 curl-enhancing gel.

For thicker, curlier locks, he likes Redken Fresh Curls Shampoo and Conditioner and styling with Redken ringlet 07 curl perfecting lotion.

And for tight, kinky hair, he suggests shampooing with Redken Fresh Curls Shampoo and conditioning with Redken Fresh Curls Curl Recovery intense rinse-out mask. To style, layer Redken Fresh Curls Curl Refiner leave-in anti-frizz detangler and Redken curl wise 14 curl defining cream for the perfect level of control.

Cutler also suggests cocktailing or layering products to get the desired results, whether the hair needs more moisture or more support. This may change depending on the hairstyle and the humidity level.

“The good thing about Redken’s new products is that they are so easily layered—whether your hair needs moisture or support,” says Cutler.

Cutler says the modern technology available in products like Redken have conditioning as well as styling agents to keep curls looking shiny, healthy and defined.

Redken’s new styling products are enriched with natural ingredients such as avocado oil, sunflower oil and mango butter — nourishing ingredients that create healthy, bouncy waves and curls.

“We’ve gone to a whole new level,” Cutler says. “We’re getting better end results and we’re getting rid of damaging ingredients. We’ve gone through the next generation plus.”

Organic and Performance Not Mutually Exclusive

by Advertorial on Sunday, October 11th, 2009

Julie Ebner

Julie Ebner began carrying Max Green Alchemy hair products at her Philadelphia salon four years ago.

While having natural and organic products is important to her, having products that work is essential to her salon’s success. With Max Green Alchemy, she says she gets both.

“Everything works amazingly well,” says Ebner of Juju Salon and Organics, which provides all natural, non-toxic and organic products. “It works for every member of the family, every texture, hair that’s been colored, etc. It’s a top seller.”

Demand for organic personal-care products has exploded, with sales of expected to top $1 billion this year, according to the Organic Trade Association. The cosmetics, hair and skin care industries use more than 7,000 ingredients derived from natural or synthetic sources. As many as one in seven of these have harmful or toxic effects on the skin or body, ranging from minor skin irritation or contact dermatitis to carcinogenic implications.

Organic refers to the way agricultural products are grown and processed. It includes a system of production, processing, distribution and sales that assures consumers that the products maintain the organic integrity that begins on the farm.

Juju Salon

But natural and organic products had a reputation for not necessarily performing as well as mainstream products.

Max Green Alchemy set out to prove that consumers need not compromise performance when they buy natural and organic styling products. Scalp Rescue Texture Paste, Scalp Rescue Sculpting Gel, Scalp Rescue Styling Gel and Scalp Rescue Pomade are designed to provide the latest looks without parabens, PVP, silicones, wax or other synthetic additives. Instead, they combine plant-derived ingredients with traditional botanical extracts, vitamins and essential oils.

The styling products were developed because of the gap that existed for effective natural styling products that perform like their chemical-laden cousins. Many “natural” products rely on petrochemicals to provide hold. Texture Paste is designed to add define and detail to chunky styles; Styling Gel is a soft hold gel; Pomade adds shine and moisture and Sculpting Gel is a strong-hold, humidity-resistant gel.

“There aren’t many good natural styling products out there,” says Wil Baker, co-founder of San Francisco-based Max Green Alchemy. “We thought we could do better. We’ve taken natural styling products to the next level.”

Whole Foods helped the fledgling company set up a distribution network, and it was “like a rolling snowball,” Baker says. Today, Max Green Alchemy products are sold at 250 resellers in the United States.

Because of this emphasis on performance, the company’s products have developed quite a following among stylists who work with texture.

“We love Max Green Alchemy for curly hair because it doesn’t feel like there’s anything in the hair, but it gives good curl definition,” says Nicole Lengerich, a stylist at Dio Salon & Spa in Colorado Springs who specializes in curly hair. “My curlies love Styling Gel. I think it’s so good that they’d use it even if it wasn’t natural.”

Many stylists also are turning to lines like Max Green Alchemy out of their own desire to use products with fewer chemicals.

“Stylists are using these products all day long in their salons,” Baker says. “Products like ours allow them to treat their bodies better as well.”

San Francisco-based Max Green Alchemy got its start in 2004 when Baker, whose background is in finance, teamed up with David Karlak, who has a marketing background. Both had an interest in natural products and believed there was a need for products that “respect consumers’ internal and external environments without sacrificing effectiveness.”

The name “Max Green,” says Baker, is a philosophy which reflects the duo’s vision.

“Alchemy is what we do as a company,” Baker says.

“We saw a gap in the market was for natural products that were still sensual,” says Baker, who telecommutes from England. “We wanted people to have an experience when they used them, and be products they would use even if they weren’t into natural ingredients.”

Baker and Karlak spent a year developing Max Alchemy’s first four products: Skin Rescue Cream, Scalp Rescue Shampoo and Conditioner and Chap Defense Lip Balm. The line launched in early 2005 at the Natural Products Expo, and was picked up by Whole Foods Market within half an hour.

“It was an indication they liked what they saw,” Baker says. “While customers may initially have jumped on it because it’s organic, we find most customers use it because it works.”

The company has been lauded by natural living publications such as Vegetarian Journal, Herb Companion, Skin Deep and Organic.org. In 2008, the company won the Best Cruelty-Free Personal Product award from PETA for its Scalp Rescue Shampoo. The PETA Proggy (for progress) awards recognize animal-friendly achievements in commerce and culture on behalf of their members and supporters.

Max Green Alchemy also has received recognition from mainstream beauty publications such as Elle, which this month named the company’s Scalp Rescue Conditioner as the best “green conditioner.”

And stylists are quickly jumping on the Max Green Alchemy bandwagon. Baker says stylists have been among the company’s strongest advocates.

“It’s the only shampoo and conditioner I sell,” says Yoshi Nishizaki of Y-Shaped God salon in New York City. “They work for everyone.”